DE1610721A1 - Process for producing a fold on a fabric edge or the like, as well as tools for carrying out the process - Google Patents

Description

DipK-lng. H. B. KAHLER. Dr.-lng. W. STRONG

PATENT LAWYERS

April 21. 1955

Our reference: 3 ka 66

415O Krefeld, on Leyentalstrasse 23 Remote call 2Ο46Θ

Your sign:

Werner Augustin, 4-15 Krefeld, Holsteinstrasse 8

Process for producing a break at a fabric edge or the like «, as well as tools for carrying out the process

The invention relates to a method for producing a Wrap on a fabric edge ododglo, in particular on Bags of items of clothing, whereby the fabric is folded over at the fold line and then hemmed or sewn o The invention also relates to tools for carrying out the method o

When sewing pockets into items of clothing, such as trousers, jackets, etc., the exact production of the fabric break prepares at the fabric edges on both sides of the separating cut forming the pocket opening, especially in the case of heavy ones Woolen fabrics sometimes have difficulties. It is therefore common

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German BsnK A3 Krsfeid 725625. Postal check Essen 4O55

required. to pre-sew the pockets on the fold lines, . before the prefabricated pocket bag is sewn in.

The invention is based on the task of eliminating these difficulties »

For this purpose it is proposed according to the invention that the fabric close with a thin stiffening strip at the folded edge glue behind, in which the break line of the fabric · is drawn out by a weakening line, preferably a separating cut is ο due to the different stiffness that the fabric has at the points deposited by the stiffening strip and those points which are below the weakening line or A soft woolen material can also be attached to the parting cut fold the dividing line very precisely, so that in the simplest possible way an extremely exact, the dividing line of the stiffening strip the following break line is achieved. The line of weakness can e.g. Bo also through a point perforation of the Stiffening strip or, which is particularly useful in the case of heavy solid materials, formed by a narrow separating cutout will".

A known synthetic is expediently used as the backing material Nonwoven fabric used, which melts when heated to relatively low temperatures and becomes sticky will. Such a nonwoven can easily be ironed onto the wool or the like. The connection achieved in this way

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of the stiffening strip with the fabric panel is sufficiently firm, around * a loosening of the stiffening strip while sewing To exclude safety = In general, the stuck-on stiffening strip can remain at the break point, although it may be it is also possible to remove the stiffening strips after the finished, position of the seam or the break point to be torn from the fabric. Since the thin nonwoven fabric that is preferably used is relatively easy to tear, it can be removed afterwards the stiffening strip no significant effort »

Instead of non-woven fabric, other fabrics, for example thin cotton fabrics or the like, can of course also be used in this case, glued to the fabric web by means of a special adhesive.

Particularly when sewing pockets in made of Y / o fabrics Garments, on which the invention is primarily aimed, it is advisable to use stiffening strips, the zv / ei have mutually parallel lines of weakness between where a central severing cut can be arranged, which is at the point where the fabric for making the pocket opening is cut open or = has been cut open before the stiffening strip is stuck on. The two parallel Weakening lines or separating cuts or separating cutouts of the Stiffening strips mark the break lines at the cut edges of the G-ewebeSo As a result of the reduced rigidity of the

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Length of fabric at these separating cut or separating cutout lines the folding of the fabric edge is made much easier »

On the other hand, there is also the possibility of stiffening strips to use the weakening lines or "separating cuts or separating cutouts" only on the two parallel break lines have, while the intermediate cutting line, which indicates the intersection of the fabric, only by a marking of the stiffening strip is shown. In this case the Stiffening strips are only cut open after they have been glued to the fabric.

It is recommended that the dividing lines or the dividing cutouts in the stiffening strips not be uninterrupted over the entire length To lead the seam or break line, but to interrupt it at individual narrow areas so that connection points exist remain where the material of the stiffening strip on both sides of the separating cut or the separating cutout remains connected to one another. In this way, the connection of the stiffening strip is preserved and, accordingly, the exact application of the stiffening strip relieved on the panel »

The stiffening strips according to the invention can be prefabricated be wound on a roll. They can also be used as ready-cut individual parts. The lines of weakness do not have to be precisely matched to the pocket length, but can also go beyond the pocket length or be shorter be than this.

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The method according to the invention and the stiffening strips used to carry it out are in the following explained in more detail with reference to the embodiment shown in the drawing.

In the drawing they show

"1, 5 and 5 plan views of a web of fabric in which

a bag is sewn in, in different stages of manufacture, while the

Fig «2 to 6 sections along lines II-II, IV-IV

respectively, VI-VI recognize »

is

In the drawing / with 1 the fabric or »the length of fabric is shown, which the part of a garment, e.g., a Forms trousers made from a solid woven fabric. .

As can be seen in FIGS. 1 and 2, a stiffening strip 2 is glued to the back of the fabric at the point where a pocket is to be sewn in (shown in dashed lines in FIG. 1), which consists of a thin, relatively stiff material »The stiffening strip 2 has two mutually parallel dividing lines 2 ¹ and 2 ¹ '. The dividing lines mark the places where the edges of the fabric should be broken _{or the like}

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The stiffening strip 2 expediently consists of a thin synthetic nonwoven fabric which is ironed onto the fabric web 1 while hot and is glued to the fabric web by slightly melting its surface _a

Each dem. Sticking of the stiffening strip 2 are used for Formation of the pocket opening between the '.division lines 2' and 2 ″ a separating cut 3 parallel to this and at its A small separating cut 4-made, running transversely thereto, ends in each case, with these separating cuts cut both the stiffening strip and the fabric of the fabric panel »

The separating cuts 3 and 4- can be in the stiffening strip already exist before it is glued to the fabric web 1 iso On the other hand, it is also possible to apply marking lines to the stiffening strips at the point where the separating cuts are made Designate the places where the separating cuts are to be made after the stiffening strip has been affixed.

As FIGS. 3 and 4- show, after the severing cuts 3 and 4- have been made, the fabric edges 5 and 6 are folded inwards on both sides of the severing cut line 3, the crease line exactly following the course of the severing lines 2 'and 2' ¹ . The pocket 7 is then sewn in, as the J? Ig <> 5 and show. The two legs 7 ¹ and 7 ' ^{1 of} the

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The finished pocket bags are marked with a Reinforcement strips 8 or »9 deposited and then each sewn into the folded fabric edges 5 and 6.

The dividing lines 2 * and 2 ″, which denote the kink or break lines, have narrow interruptions 2 ¹¹ ′ in order to prevent that there ^; i the fabric edges are detached from the bandage with the frame-like border of the stiffening strip to such an extent that they can slip or shift when the stiffening strip is applied to the length of fabric »

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Claims (9)

Specimen copy May not ^ O ^ j Claims 1 * Method for making a fold on fabric edges and the like, in particular on pockets of clothing, wherein the fabric is folded over at the fold line and then hemmed or sewn, characterized in that the fabric web (1) at the fold point with a thin Reinforcing strip (2) is glued behind, in which the fold line of the fabric is drawn in advance by a weakening line, preferably a separating cut (2 ¹ , 2 ') or a narrow separating cutout. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the break point is deposited with a thin synthetic nonwoven fabric which is glued to the fabric web (1) by hot ironing. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that that the separating cut (2 ¹ , 2 ¹¹ ) or the separating cutout in the reinforcement strip (2) is interrupted at at least one narrow point by a connecting ^{web (2 · fl} ) between the stiffener parts lying on both sides of the separating cut or separating cutout tε . 4 * Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that that when inserting pockets (7) or the like. in a fabric (1) this is glued behind at the point of use by means of a stiffening strip (2) which has two mutually parallel weakening lines (2 ·, 2 ¹ ·), between which a central separating cut (5) or a separating cutout is expediently arranged, the two outer weakening lines (2 ·, 2 '·) mark the break lines on the fabric edges (5 »6) lying on both sides of the separating cut line, and then the fabric edges (5, 6) are folded over at the weakening lines and then in the usual way can be sewn to the pocket (7) 5. Stiffening strips for fabrics, in particular wool fabrics, characterized in that it consists of a preferably self-adhesive strip (2) which can be stuck onto the fabric (1) and which has a weakening line, preferably a separating cut (2 ¹ , 2 · ') or has a narrow parting appearance 6 · stiffening strip according to claim 5, characterized by two mutually parallel swelling lines (2 *, 2 · ') between where appropriate a separating cut (3) or a separating cutout arranged 1st. 7. stiffening strip according to claim 5 _f, characterized in that it has two mutually parallel Schwäohungslinien (2 *, 2 · ') 1 61 U 7 21 having, wherein a marking line is arranged between these weakening lines, which marks the point in which the Separation cut is made in the fabric (1). 8. Stiffening strip according to one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the dividing lines (2 ¹ , 2 '·) or · the dividing cutouts ^{are interrupted at individual points (2 111} ), so that at these points the the cutting line lying parts of the stiffening strip are connected to one another at narrow areas. 9. stiffening strip according to one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that it consists of a thin, synthetic non-woven fabric which can be stuck onto the fabric (1) by hot ironing is. ORIGINAL INSPECTED 2/0144