DE1460086A1 - Process for the production of a one-piece collar - Google Patents

Description

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H6008S

Applicant company EHBA Aktiengesellschaft for the textile industry

Title; Method for producing a one-piece collar.

description

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The "B-finding" relates to a method for making a EinstüeKfcragensj at least on the upper collar part an örund insert permanently glued on one side insert was applied in the lurnier process and in the the lower collar part is coated with a linmal adhesive and sewn to an upper sheet with a stitched seam »

A well-known piece collar has an insert or, if necessary, a combination of three layers, which is covered on both sides with an outer fabric Shirt wearer fits and is invisible, and an upper collar. The when I _r recite visible bargain of the fabric on the upper collar and the neck of the 3? _{The more} closely fitting part of the outer fabric is called the top sheet, while the opposite part of the fabric is called the bottom sheet

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is glued with a permanent, boil-proof adhesive insert. The aim is now to permanently glue the G-round insert to the adhesive insert, at least in the upper collar, and to glue the top sheet to the insert in the lower collar so that the adhesive is not necessary after the first wash. In this way, a good V _e rkaufsaufmachung of the shirt achieved because the externally visible upper sheet of the lower collar smooth to the insert, dhohne Palten or bubbles is present. Further, the top sheet of the lower collar possesses after the first wash, a sufficient softness and absorbency for S _o liweiss because it has then released from the liner "

It is known for gluing the top sheet of the lower collar to the insert, the top sheet of the on the finished shirt To coat the lower collar with starch «The aqueous starch penetrates through the upper sheet into the insert and sticks Inlay and top sheet of the lower collar. This known method is considered to be unprofitable and costly, since the finished shirt is awkward to handle. Farther Nowadays, non-iron fabrics are mainly used for the top sheet, which are coated with starch or other adhesives' can only be glued inadequately.

The invention aims a V _e rfahren to create that. Laughing hasten the known method does not have · It consists iarin "that first the one-off adhesive that a per se

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waseerloslich.es acrylic resin, on the lower collar part the insert. is applied, then the underlay part with the top sheet is sewn and with the presentation during the necessary finish-pressing of the shirt and thus also the collar of the lower collar is pressed under heat and at the same time glued. The here according to the invention The single-use adhesive used is described in more detail in the applicant's patent application B 76 913 VIIa / 3al. Instead of on every single finished shirt, as before, the top sheet To coat the lower collar with watery starch, the lower collar is now only associated with an already necessary ironing treatment under heat, while the application of the disposable adhesive in the course of machine production of the ready-to-sew insert combination takes place, '

Since no liquid is used to glue the upper sheet of the lower collar, the lower collar part can also be used be glued to the side of the backing sheet with a permanent adhesive, which is desirable from time to time. To the Apply single-use adhesive to the insert combination, the screen printing process is more expedient and advantageous applied, which is known from paper printing is.

Reference to the drawing, the invention is explained in more detail * It shows

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3? Ig. 1 shows a cross section through a one-piece collar and 3? Ig.2 a plan view of the insert of this collar

The one-piece collar shown has an outer fabric with top sheet 1 and bottom sheet 2. Such a collar is made in particular from the following finished fabrics;

1) Pure cotton fabric with a dry wrinkle-proof finish, i.e. those that have been treated with aminoplast precondensates, e.g. dimethylolurea, methylolmelamines ».Similar ·

2) Woven fabrics made of pure cotton, which are wet and dry crease resistant, Z ₀ B ₀ by treatment with reactant resins, such as methyl compounds of cyclic alkylene ureas, methylol compounds of Ti / azine derivatives, methylol derivatives, carbamic acid esters, etc. or by treatment with OT-free crosslinking agents such as epoxy compounds, chlorohydrin derivatives, acetals of aliphatic aldehydes with alcohols, divinyl sulfone derivatives, for example trialcyl sulfonium derivatives, among others

3) Sanforized and shrunk pure cotton fabrics with ordinary finishing used for improvement Softeners or stiffeners are added to the handle, which do not have a chemical bond with the cotton fiber come in "

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4) fabrics made from blends of cotton and synthetics, at

which one of the finishes mentioned under 1) to 3) has at least * an ^{effect on the cotton contentf Examples: a) Special poplin ^ KM 11} with 8o # cotton and 2o #

Polyester, finished according to 3) jb) Diolen cotton, finished according to 1) or 2) or 3) i

5) fabrics made from blends of cotton and R _e generat-Oellulose (called man-made fibers) equipped according to 1);

Example 6) fabrics made from pure synthetics such as polyamides (also known. Under the trademark "Perlon") or polyacrylic (known example · under trademark "Dralon") or (known example · ^w polyester under trademark! Drevira "and" diols ") _β These fabrics are finished solely by washing, bleaching, dyeing, possibly using softeners or stiffening agents for the handle.

7) Fabric made from pure regenerated cellulose, e.g. staple viscose with a cotton type using the viscose or copper process (known under the trademark "öuprama") or Acetatί Equipment as under l) f

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8) Fabric made from a mixture of synthetics with regenerated cellulose Equipment as under 1).

The collar shown has a base insert 3, which on the side of the TJnterblattes 2 with a permanent boil-proof Adhesive insert 4a, 4b is glued in the I'urnierverfahren. One Permanent bonding 4a is located on the upper collar 5 and is separated from a second permanent bonding 4b on the lower collar separated by a collar break 7. The gluing 4a on the upper collar is always provided during the gluing 4b is only occasionally provided on the lower collar 6. The insert combination is now on the top sheet 1 facing The side of the lower part of the collar is provided with a single-use adhesive layer θ using the screen printing process.

The ready-to-sew insert combination lies on top of one so-called printing table, on which a frame presses, which is covered with gauze on the inside, which in turn is up to the porm of the single-use adhesive layer tightly with stencil varnish “Inside the frame pressing on the insert, the adhesive mass is pushed through the Gauze pressed within the area recessed in the stencil varnish and thus applied to the insert below / The continuous process of coating ready-to-sew Deposits are made by moving the sieve or

809811/0065 ORIGINAL INSPEC

des Dru.öktlö © tos vorgeaoeaeii. Bi © fr © eknung the bes © M © 3a.teteii, _f ready-to-sew mnlageYes done in © imam fro ekenrahmen * How much is that © slßk d # r Slmaalkle ^ er guaranteed in the water at the usual & ea V®s © i ^^ Moving OBg,

hot ¥ as <shflott © ait fasclieittel)> ollkoimen dissolves. So there are Μώ of the wash no sweets left over, the sohmateasfiialBiefÄlg s ± n € and & s & IQaterlcragen due to -Ton SchwedLss · - and fatty deposits. let lanansehnlieli *

There, among other things, the EaPd of the lower collar part of the insert 8,5, 4b is beaten a © top sheet to the insert by means of a stitching seam Io. The liner combination will now be dea with top sheet 1 mud ds "2 nd sub-sheet by means of a fall seam 9 at the R _a of the upper collar sewn together. Finally, between the insert combination and the lower sheet 2, the band of a shirt ring 11 is lifted and the upper sheet, insert, shirt body and lower sheet are connected by an assembly seam 12.

It is essential that the connection of the insert combination with the top sheet in the lower collar is dry, so dads no! moisture comes into contact with the upper collar, which Non-iron cover fabrics always have a permanent bond contains, #elehe mostly for price reasons with a high pressure Polyathylseio.-yelieiibeschiohtung is manufactured · A fÄnaanente bond produced in this way would look under the influence by Hitafe '»adDruok in connection with ^ moisture

a pressing process for a lower collar bond, in which the use of moisture is necessary, due to the formation of bubbles in places or completely in the case of greater moisture to solve·

As a result, the upper collar would lose the dimensional stability that was intended for it for a long time and would not look smooth as a result the blistering of its inserts have · Other permanent bonds based on polyethylene / PVO mixtures with granulated surface would under the influence of heat, pressure and moisture in places through the fabric of the G-round insert, which lies towards the outer fabric, fold and thus only result in places where the outer fabric is glued to the upper collar, which was equivalent to the formation of bubbles that could be seen from the outside

As also Fig. 2 shows, is on the side of the insert that is free of permanent adhesion and on the finished collar The upper sheet faces, for example in the form of the lower collar, a layer 8 of dry-bonded single-use adhesive in the form of a water-soluble acrylic resin applied in such a way that the linmal bonding that is later created by this coating runs exactly along the collar umlegebruches 7, so that the fully glued lower collar in the broad extent of the Collar neck up to the lower limit through the assembly seam is completely glued

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Is the insert intended for collars in which the lower shelf a-0 %% öti> fffeil not aa the lower one in the area (tv * jfcmtageifeant is already as the first work step seam-wide around the edge of the insert, special $ 0. * Mnlage together with the Outer fabric in this B _e reioh iSeim stitch of the collar on the shirt is mitgefasst nahfbreit, the coating on the 2rasätzlioii truncated fact is left out on the lower collar · in the itegenausdehnung of ünterkragens the coating at the will n at angesogenem shirt with buttoned Erag # SiOH The overlapping lines 9a, 9b of the underlay are saved · The coated area corresponds roughly to that of a crescent moon.

Claims (1)

tall 3 1A60086 Claims experienced for the production of a one-piece collar? "in which the V _- / at least the upper collar part of a base insert is provided on one side with a permanent, boil-proof bond in the veneer process, which is released again when the three components, heat, pressure and liquid come together, and the lower collar part with a disposable adhesive treated and sewn to an upper sheet by means of a quilting seam, characterized in that first the single-use adhesive, which is a water-soluble acrylic resin known per se, is applied to the lower collar part of a machine-made, ready-to-sew insert combination, then the lower collar part is sewn to the upper sheet and then, the lower collar is only pressed and glued under heat. 2) The method according to claim 1, characterized in that first the lower collar part is sewn to the upper sheet, then the collar is sewn to a shirt body by means of an assembly seam and then the lower collar is pressed under heat. 5) Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized ♦ that the lower collar part is coated with a permanent adhesive on the side of the lower sheet. 809811/0065 4) Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the single-use adhesive is applied to the lower collar part by machine using the screen printing method known per se. 5) One-piece collar produced according to the method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the one-piece adhesive layer (8) runs past the collar fold (7). 6) One-piece collar according to claim 5, characterized in that the single-use adhesive layer (8) ends in front of the end tabs (9a, 9b) on both sides. 8 0 98 11/0065