DE102019212172A1 - Process for decolorizing keratinous material which has been colored with an organosilicon compound and a pigment - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, a decolorizing agent containing (a) at least one solvent and (b) at least one fluorine compound being applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time.

Description

The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment. The decolorizing agent applied as part of this process is characterized by its content of at least one solvent and at least one fluorine compound. The decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

A second subject of the present application is a method for coloring and later decolorizing keratin material, in which first a coloring agent containing an organosilicon compound and a pigment is applied to the keratin, and later the decolorization is carried out by using the decolorizing agent described above.

A third subject of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit which contains the dye and the decolorizing agent in separately packaged containers. Finally, a fourth subject is the use of the decolorizing agent for decolorizing appropriately colored keratin material.

The change in the shape and color of keratinic fibers, in particular of hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. The person skilled in the art knows various coloring systems for changing the hair color, depending on the coloring requirements. Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intense dyeings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes with one another. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

If substantive dyes are used, dyes that have already been developed diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the coloring obtained with substantive dyes is less durable and can be washed out more quickly. Colorations with substantive dyes usually remain on the hair for a period of between 5 and 20 washes.

The use of color pigments is known for brief color changes on the hair and / or the skin. Color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, coloring substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are only deposited on the outside of the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue by a few washes with detergents containing surfactants. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.

Recently, attention has been paid to a new coloring system in which coloring is colored by using a combination of a pigment, an organic silicon compound and a polymer. This new staining system is used in, for example EP 2168633 B1 described.

When these organic silicon compounds are used on keratin material, a film or also a coating forms on the keratin material, which completely envelops the keratin material and in this way has a strong influence on the properties of the keratin material. If the application takes place in the presence of a coloring compound, for example a pigment, the pigments are embedded in this film or in the coating. The film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or the keratin fibers. The dyeings obtained in this way should be particularly resistant to shampooing.

In this staining process, too, it can happen that the staining needs to be partially or completely reversed for various reasons. Partial removal of the dye may be necessary, for example, if the dyeing result on the fibers is darker than desired. On the other hand, complete removal of the color may also be desirable in some cases. For example, it is conceivable that the hair should be colored or tinted in a certain shade for a specific occasion and the original color should be regained after a few days.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a decolorizing agent for decolorizing colored keratin fibers which had previously been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound, in particular a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy-silane, and at least one pigment. The discoloration should be as complete as possible, so that the color of the keratin material can ideally be returned to its original state. Furthermore, the decolorization should be long-lasting and even, and the decolorized keratin fibers should neither suffer shifts in shade nor unevenness in the color result. In addition, the keratin material should be damaged as little as possible by the decolorizing agent.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that this object can be achieved in its entirety if keratinic material that has previously been colored with at least one organosilicon compound and with at least one pigment is treated with a decolorizing agent that contains at least one solvent and at least one fluorine compound .

1. (a) mindestens ein Lösungsmittel und
2. (b) mindestens eine Fluorverbindung

auf das gefärbte Keratinmaterial aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit wieder abgespült wird.A first object of the present invention is a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent

1. (a) at least one solvent and
2. (b) at least one fluorine compound

applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

In the experiments leading to this invention, keratin fibers (strands of hair) were used, for example, which had previously been colored with an agent containing various organosilicon compounds (such as organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilanes) and various pigments (such as organic and inorganic pigments) contained. After being dyed, these fibers were decolored again by using a decolorizing agent according to the invention. In this connection it has surprisingly been found that a decolorizing agent which contains the combination of solvent (a) and fluorine compound (b) is able to remove the colored film formed from organosilicon compound and pigment almost completely from the keratin fiber. In this way it became possible to restore the original color of the hair and to restore the keratin fibers to their original color. The hair was not damaged by the bleaching process.

Discoloration of keratinic material

Keratinic material is understood to mean hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails, for example). Furthermore, wool, furs and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinic material.

Keratinic material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratinic material is very particularly preferably understood to mean human hair.

In the context of this invention, the term “means for decolorization” is understood to mean that a coloration on the keratin material which has been produced by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment can be removed again. During the coloring process, the keratin material or the keratin fiber is enveloped by a colored film that is formed from the organosilicon compounds and the pigments. According to the invention, the decolorizing agent is used after the application of the coloring agent, and the decolorizing agent is able to remove this colored film again from the keratin material.

The process according to the invention is characterized by the use of the decolorizing agent on keratin material which has previously been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment.

Coloring using organosilicon compounds

In the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to previously colored keratin material. In the previous coloring, at least one organosilicon compound is used on the keratin material.

Organic silicon compounds, which are alternatively referred to as organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is attached to the silicon via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom. Atom is linked. The organic silicon compounds according to the invention are preferably compounds which contain one to three silicon atoms. The organic silicon compounds particularly preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.

The decolorizing agent works particularly well on colored keratin material if an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane was used in the previous coloring.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane (s) are organic, non-polymeric silicon compounds which are preferably selected from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms.

According to the IUPAC rules, the term silane stands for a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In the case of organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms have been completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as, for example, (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.

A characteristic of the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes according to the invention is that at least one C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy group is bonded directly to a silicon atom. The C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R''R '''Si-O- (C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl) where the radicals R', R '' and R ''' stand for the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom.

The C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group or groups bonded to the silicon atom are very reactive and are hydrolyzed at high speed in the presence of water, the reaction rate also depending, inter alia, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule. If the hydrolyzable C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R "R"'Si-O-CH2-CH3. The radicals R ', R''andR''' again represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.

Even the addition of small amounts of water initially leads to hydrolysis and then to a condensation reaction of the organic alkoxysilanes with one another. For this reason, both the organic alkoxysilanes and their condensation products can be used for dyeing purposes.

A condensation product is understood to mean a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes with elimination of water and / or with elimination of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkanol. The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane to condensation product.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment was colored.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes can, for example, be compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound also comprising one or more basic chemical functions.

This basic group can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group or a dialkylamino group, preferably via a linker with a silicon atom connected is. The basic group is preferably an amino group, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkylamino group or a di (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylamino group.

A very particularly preferred method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment, wherein the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane furthermore comprises one or more basic chemical functions.

Particularly good results could be obtained when the decolorizing agent was applied to keratin material which had previously been colored with C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (SI) and / or (S-II). Since, as already described above, hydrolysis / condensation starts even with traces of moisture, the coloring of the keratin material with C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (SI) and / or (S-II) also includes the use of their condensation products .

• - R₁, R₂ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe stehen,
• - L für eine lineare oder verzweigte, zweiwertige C₁-C₂₀-Alkylengruppe steht,
• - R₃, R₄ unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe stehen,
• - a, für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht, und
• - b für die ganze Zahl 3 - a steht, und (R₅O)_c(R6)dSi-(A)_e-[NR7-(A')]_f-[O-(A'')]_g-[NRa-(A''')]_h-Si(R6')_d'(OR₅)_c' (S-II), wobei
• - R5, R5', R5'', R6, R6' und R6'' unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe stehen,
• - A, A', A'', A''' und A'''' unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare oder verzweigte, zweiwertige C₁-C₂₀-Alkylengruppe stehen,
• - R₇ und R₈ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe, eine Hydroxy-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe, eine Amino-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppierung der Formel (S-III) stehen, - (A"")-Si(R6")d"(OR5")c" (S-III),
• - c, für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht,
• - d für die ganze Zahl 3 - c steht,
• - c' für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht,
• - d' für die ganze Zahl 3 - c' steht,
• - c" für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht,
• - d" für die ganze Zahl 3 - c'' steht,
• - e für 0 oder 1 steht,
• - f für 0 oder 1 steht,
• - g für 0 oder 1 steht,
• - h für 0 oder 1 steht,
• - mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste aus e, f, g und h von 0 verschieden ist.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (SI) and / or (S-II ) and colored with a pigment, R ₁ R ₂ NL-Si (OR ₃ ) a (R ₄ ) b (SI) in which

• - R ₁ , R ₂ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,
• - L stands for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group,
• - R ₃ , R ₄ independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,
• - a, stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and
• - b stands for the integer 3 - a, and (R ₅ O) _c (R6) dSi- (A) _e - [NR7- (A ')] _f - [O- (A ")] _g - [NRa- (A"')] _h -Si (R6 ') _d' (OR ₅ ) _{c '} (S-II), in which
• - R5, R5 ', R5 ", R6, R6' and R6" independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,
• - A, A ', A'',A''' and A '''' independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group,
• - R ₇ and R ₈ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group, an amino-C ₁ -C ₆ - alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III), - (A "") - Si (R6 ") d" (OR5 ") c" (S-III),
• - c, stands for an integer from 1 to 3,
• - d stands for the whole number 3 - c,
• - c 'stands for an integer from 1 to 3,
• - d 'stands for the whole number 3 - c',
• - c "stands for an integer from 1 to 3,
• - d "stands for the integer 3 - c",
• - e stands for 0 or 1,
• - f stands for 0 or 1,
• - g stands for 0 or 1,
• - h stands for 0 or 1,
• - With the proviso that at least one of the radicals from e, f, g and h is different from 0.

• Beispiele für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe sind die Gruppen Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, Isopropyl, n-Butyl, s-Butyl und t-Butyl, n-Pentyl und n-Hexyl. Propyl, Ethyl und Methyl sind bevorzugte Alkylreste. Beispiele für eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe sind Vinyl, Allyl, But-2-enyl, But-3-enyl sowie Isobutenyl, bevorzugte C₂-C₆-Alkenylreste sind Vinyl und Allyl. Bevorzugte Beispiele für eine Hydroxy-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe sind eine Hydroxymethyl-, eine 2-Hydroxyethyl-, eine 2-Hydroxypropyl, eine 3-Hydroxypropyl-, eine 4-Hydroxybutylgruppe, eine 5-Hydroxypentyl- und eine 6-Hydroxyhexylgruppe; eine 2-Hydroxyethylgruppe ist besonders bevorzugt. Beispiele für eine Amino-C₁-C₆-alkyl-gruppe sind die Aminomethylgruppe, die 2-Aminoethylgruppe, die 3-Aminopropylgruppe. Die 2-Aminoethylgruppe ist besonders bevorzugt. Beispiele für eine lineare zweiwertige C₁-C₂₀-Alkylengruppe sind beispielsweise die Methylen-gruppe (-CH₂-), die Ethylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-), die Propylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-) und die Butylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-). Die Propylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂) ist besonders bevorzugt. Ab einer Kettenlänge von 3 C-Atomen können zweiwertige Alkylengruppen auch verzweigt sein. Beispiele für verzweigte, zweiwertige C₃-C₂₀-Alkylengruppen sind (-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-) und (-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-CH₂-).

The substituents R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₅ ', R ₅ ", R ₆ , R ₆ ', R ₆ ", R ₇ , R ₈ , L, A, A ' , A '', A '''andA''''in the compounds of the formula (SI) and (S-II) are explained below by way of example:

• Examples of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group ; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of an amino-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group and the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH ₂ -), the ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), the propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - ) and the butylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). The propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C ₃ -C ₂₀ alkylene groups are (-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -) and (-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -CH ₂ -).

In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (SI) R ₁ R ₂ NL-Si (OR ₃ ) _a (R ₄ ) _b (SI), the radicals R ₁ and R ₂ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. The radicals R ₁ and R ₂ very particularly preferably both represent a hydrogen atom.

In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group. The divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group, which means that each grouping -L- can form two bonds.

-L- is preferably a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group. With further preference -L- stands for a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group. -L- is particularly preferably a methylene group (-CH ₂ -), an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or a butylene group (-CH ₂ - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). L very particularly preferably represents a propylene group (—CH ₂ —CH ₂ —CH ₂ -).

The organic silicon compounds according to the invention of the formula (SI) R ₁ R ₂ NL-Si (OR ₃ ) _a (R ₄ ) _b (SI), each carry the silicon-containing group -Si (OR ₃ ) _a (R ₄ ) _{b at one end} .

In the terminal structural unit -Si (OR ₃ ) _a (R ₄ ) _b , the radicals R3 and R4 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, particularly preferably R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group .

Here a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a is 3, then b is 0. If a is 2, b is 1. If a is 1, b is 2.

The use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention was particularly successful when the keratin material was previously colored with an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (SI) in which the radicals R ₃ , R ₄ independently of one another represent a methyl group or stand for an ethyl group.

Furthermore, the use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention was particularly successful when the keratin material was previously colored with an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (SI) in which the radical a stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder b stands for the number 0.

• - R₁, R₂ beide für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen, und
• - L für eine lineare, zweiwertige C₁-C₆-Alkylengruppe, bevorzugt für eine Propylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-) oder für eine Ethylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-), steht,
• - R₃ für eine Ethylgruppe oder eine Methylgruppe steht,
• - R₄ für eine Methylgruppe oder für eine Ethylgruppe steht,
• - a für die Zahl 3 steht und
• - b für die Zahl 0 steht.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (I) and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment has been colored, R ₁ R ₂ NL-Si (OR ₃ ) _a (R ₄ ) _b (SI), in which

• - R ₁ , R ₂ both represent a hydrogen atom, and
• - L is a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -),
• - R _{3 stands} for an ethyl group or a methyl group,
• - R _{4 represents} a methyl group or an ethyl group,
• - a stands for the number 3 and
• - b stands for the number 0.

• - (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilan
  
• - (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilan
  
• - (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilan
  
• - (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilan
  
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilan
  
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilan
  
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilan.
  
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilan und/oder
  

Silicon compounds of the formula (I) which can be removed particularly easily by the subsequent use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention are

• - (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane
  
• - (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane
  
• - (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane
  
• - (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane
  
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane
  
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane
  
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane.
  
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane and / or
  

• - (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilan
• - (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilan
• - (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilan
• - (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilan
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilan
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilan
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilan und/oder
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilan.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and has been colored by using at least one pigment, the organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane being selected from the group

• - (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane
• - (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane
• - (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane
• - (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane
• - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane
• - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane and / or
• - (2-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane.

The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example. (3-Aminopropyl) triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, the keratin material can also be colored beforehand by using one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (S-II), (R ₅ O) _c (R ₆ ) dSi- (A) _e - [NR ₇ - (A ')] _f - [O- (A'')] _g - [NRa- (A''')] _h -Si (R ₆ ') _d' (OR ₅ ) _{c '} (S-II).

The organosilicon compounds of the formula (S-II) according to the invention each have the silicon-containing groups (R ₅ O) _c (R ₆ ) _d Si and -Si (R ₆ ') _d' (OR ₅ ') at both ends _{c '} .

In the middle part of the molecule of the formula (S-II) are the groupings - (A) _e - and - [NR ₇ - (A ')] f- and - [O- (A'')] _g - and - [ NR ₈ - (A ''')] _h -. Each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is different from zero. In other words, an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains at least one group from the group consisting of - (A) - and - [NR ₇ - (A ')] - and - [O- (A ")] - and - [NR ₈ - (A ''')] -.

In the two terminal structural units (R ₅ O) _c (R ₆ ) _d Si and Si (R ₆ ') _d , (OR ₅ ') _{c '} , the radicals R5, R5', R5 '' independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group. The radicals R6, R6 'and R6 "independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group.

Here, c stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3 - c. If c is 3, then d is 0. If c is 2, d is 1. If c is 1, d is 2.

Similarly, c 'stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d' stands for the integer 3 - c '. If c 'stands for the number 3, then d' equals 0. If c 'stands for the number 2, then d' equals 1. If c 'stands for the number 1, then d' equals 2.

Dyeings with the best wash fastness could be obtained if the residues c and c 'both stand for the number 3. In this case, d and d 'both stand for the number 0.

• - R5 und R5` unabhängig voneinander für eine Methylgruppe oder eine Ethylgruppe stehen,
• - c und c' beide für die Zahl 3 stehen und
• - d und d' beide für die Zahl 0 stehen.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (II) and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment has been colored, (R ₅ O) _c (R6) dSi- (A) _e - [NR7- (A ')] _f - [O- (A ")] _g - [NRa- (A"')] _h -Si (R6 ') _d' (OR ₅ ) _{c '} (S-II), in which

• - R5 and R5` independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group,
• - c and c 'both stand for the number 3 and
• - d and d 'both stand for the number 0.

If c and c 'both stand for the number 3 and d and d' both stand for the number 0, the organic silicon compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (S-Ila) (R ₅ O) ₃ Si- (A) _e - [NR ₇ - (A ')] _f - [O- (A ")] _g - [NR8- (A"')] _h -Si (OR _{5 '} ) ₃ (S-Ila).

The radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero. The abbreviations e, f, g and h define which of the groupings - (A) _e - and - [NR ₇ - (A ')] _f - and - [O- (A'')] g- and - [NR ₈ - (A ''')] _h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of the formula (II).

In this context, the presence of certain groups has proven to be particularly advantageous. Particularly good results could be obtained when at least two of the radicals e, f, g and h stand for the number 1. Very particularly preferably e and f both stand for the number 1. Furthermore, with very particular preference g and h both stand for the number 0.

If e and f both stand for the number 1 and g and h both stand for the number 0, the organic silicon compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (S-IIb) (R ₅ O) _c (R ₆ ) _d Si (A) - [NR ₇ - (A ')] - Si (R ₆ ') _{d '} (OR _5' ) _{c '} (S-Ilb).

The radicals A, A ', A ", A""andA""" stand independently of one another for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group. The radicals A, A ′, A ″, A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ are preferably, independently of one another, a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group. The radicals A, A ′, A ″, A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ are more preferably, independently of one another, a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group.

The divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group, which means that each grouping A, A ', A ", A"' and A ''''can form two bonds.

The radicals A, A ', A'',A''' and A '''' are particularly preferably, independently of one another, a methylene group (-CH ₂ -), an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or a butylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). The radicals A, A ', A'',A''' and A '''' very particularly preferably represent a propylene group (—CH ₂ —CH ₂ —CH ₂ -).

If the radical f stands for the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains a structural grouping - [NR ₇ - (A ')] -. If the radical h stands for the number 1, the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains a structural grouping - [NRa- (A ''')] -.

The radicals R ₇ and R ₈ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group, an amino-C ₁ - C ₆ alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III) - (A '''') - Si (R6 '') d '' (OR5 '') c '' (S-III).

The radicals R7 and R8 are very particularly preferably, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).

If the radical f stands for the number 1 and the radical h stands for the number 0, the organic silicon compound according to the invention contains the grouping [NR ₇ - (A ')], but not the grouping - [NR ₈ - (A''' )]. If the radical R7 now stands for a grouping of the formula (III), the organic silicon compound comprises 3 reactive silane groups.

• - e und f beide für die Zahl 1 stehen,
• - g und h beide für die Zahl 0 stehen,
• - A und A' unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare, zweiwertige C₁-C₆-Alkylengruppe stehen und
• - R7 für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine 2-Hydroxyethylgruppe, eine 2-Alkenylgruppe, eine 2-Aminoethylgruppe oder für eine Gruppierung der Formel (S-III) steht.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (S-II) and / or a condensation product thereof and has been colored by using at least one pigment, (R ₅ O) _c (R6) _d Si- (A) _e - [NR ₇ - (A ')] _f - [O- (A ")] _g - [NRa- (A"')] _h -Si (R6 ') _d' (OR ₅ ) _{c '} (S-II) in which

• - e and f both stand for the number 1,
• - g and h both stand for the number 0,
• - A and A 'independently of one another represent a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₆ -alkylene group and
• - R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).

• - e und f beide für die Zahl 1 stehen,
• - g und h beide für die Zahl 0 stehen,
• - A und A' unabhängig voneinander für eine Methylengruppe (-CH₂-), eine Ethylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-) oder eine Propylengruppe (-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂) stehen, und
• - R7 für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine 2-Hydroxyethylgruppe, eine 2-Alkenylgruppe, eine 2-Aminoethylgruppe oder für eine Gruppierung der Formel (S-III) steht.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (S-II) and / or a condensation product thereof and was colored by applying at least one pigment,
in which

• - e and f both stand for the number 1,
• - g and h both stand for the number 0,
• - A and A 'independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH ₂ -), an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ ), and
• - R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).

• - 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
  
• - 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1 -propanamin
  
• -N-Methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin I
  
• -N-Methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
  
• - 2-[Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol
  
• - 2-[Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol
  
• - 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
  
• - 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
  
• - N1 ,N1-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamin,
  
• - N1 ,N1-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamin,
  
• - N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amin
  
• - N,N-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amin

Silicon compounds of the formula (S-II) which can be removed particularly easily by the subsequent use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention are

• - 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
  
• - 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
  
• -N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine I.
  
• -N-methyl-3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
  
• - 2- [bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol
  
• - 2- [bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol
  
• - 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
  
• - 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
  
• - N1, N1-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1,2-ethanediamine,
  
• - N1, N1-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1,2-ethanediamine,
  
• - N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propen-1-amine
  
• - N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propen-1-amine

The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-II) are commercially available. Bis (trimethoxysilylpropyl) amine with the CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
Bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine with the CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine is alternatively referred to as bis (3-trimethoxysilylpropyl) -N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem .
3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine with the CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich, for example.

• - 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
• - 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
• - N-Methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
• - N-Methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
• - 2-[Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol
• - 2-[Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol
• - 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-Propanamin
• - 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-Propanamin
• - N1,N1-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-Ethanediamin,
• - N1,N1-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-Ethanediamin,
• - N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-Propen-1-amin und/oder
• - N,N-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-Propen-1-amin.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof Application of at least one pigment was colored, the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane being selected from the group

• - 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
• - 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
• - N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
• - N-methyl-3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
• - 2- [bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol
• - 2- [bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol
• - 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
• - 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine
• - N1, N1-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1,2-ethanediamine,
• - N1, N1-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1,2-ethanediamine,
• - N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propene-1-amine and / or
• - N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propen-1-amine.

In further dyeing / decolorizing experiments it has also been found to be particularly advantageous if at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S-IV) was used to color the keratin material in the process according to the invention R ₉ Si (OR ₁₀ ) _k (R ₁₁ ) m (S-IV).

The compounds of formula (S-IV) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydrolyzable groups per molecule.

• - R₉ für eine C₁-C₁₂-Alkylgruppe steht,
• - R₁₀ für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe steht,
• - R₁₁ für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe steht
• - k für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht, und
• - m für die ganze Zahl 3 - k steht.

The organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (S-IV) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkyl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane type, R ₉ Si (OR ₁₀ ) _k (R ₁₁ ) m (S-IV), in which

• - R _{9 represents} a C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl group,
• - R _{10 represents} a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,
• - R _{11 represents} a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group
• - k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and
• - m stands for the integer 3 - k.

• - R₉ für eine C₁-C₁₂-Alkylgruppe steht,
• - R₁₀ für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe steht,
• - R₁₁ für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe steht
• - k für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht, und
• - m für die ganze Zahl 3 - k steht.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane of the formula (S-IV) and / or a condensation product thereof and colored by using at least one pigment, R ₉ Si (OR ₁₀ ) _k (R ₁₁ ) m (S-IV), in which

• - R _{9 stands} for a C ₁ -C ₁₂ -alkyl group,
• - R _{10 represents} a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,
• - R _{11 represents} a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group
• - k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and
• - m stands for the integer 3 - k.

In the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (S-IV), the radical R _{9 stands} for a C ₁ -C ₁₂ -alkyl group. This C ₁ -C ₁₂ -alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. R ₉ is preferably a linear C ₁ -C ₈ -alkyl group. R ₉ preferably stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group or an n-dodecyl group. R ₉ particularly preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-octyl group.

In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV), the radical R _{10 represents} a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. R ₁₀ particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV), the radical R _{11 is} a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. R ₁₁ particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

Furthermore, k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and m stands for the integer 3 - k. If k is the number 3, then m is 0. If k is the number 2, then m is 1. If k is the number 1, then m is 2.

Very good decolorization results could be obtained if the keratin material was first colored with an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S-IV), in which the remainder k stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder m stands for the number 0.

• - Methyltrimethoxysilan
  
• - Methyltriethoxysilan
  
• - Ethyltrimethoxysilan
  
• - Ethyltriethoxysilan
  
• - n-Propyltrimethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet ans Propyltrimethoxysilan)
  
• - n-Propyltriethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Propyltriethoxysilan)
  
• - n-Hexyltrimethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Hexyltrimethoxysilan)
  
• - n-Hexyltriethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Hexyltriethoxysilan)
  
• - n-Octyltrimethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Octyltrimethoxysilan)
  
• - n-Octyltriethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Octyltriethoxysilan)
  
• - n-Dodecyltrimethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Dodecyltrimethoxysilan) und/oder
  
• - n-Dodecyltriethoxysilan (auch bezeichnet als Dodecyltriethoxysilan).
  

Organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV) which are particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention are

• - methyltrimethoxysilane
  
• - methyltriethoxysilane
  
• - ethyltrimethoxysilane
  
• - ethyltriethoxysilane
  
• - n-propyltrimethoxysilane (also called ans propyltrimethoxysilane)
  
• - n-propyltriethoxysilane (also known as propyltriethoxysilane)
  
• - n-Hexyltrimethoxysilane (also known as hexyltrimethoxysilane)
  
• - n-Hexyltriethoxysilane (also called hexyltriethoxysilane)
  
• - n-Octyltrimethoxysilane (also called octyltrimethoxysilane)
  
• - n-Octyltriethoxysilane (also called octyltriethoxysilane)
  
• - n-Dodecyltrimethoxysilane (also referred to as dodecyltrimethoxysilane) and / or
  
• - n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane (also referred to as dodecyltriethoxysilane).
  

• - Methyltrimethoxysilan,
• - Methyltriethoxysilan,
• - Ethyltrimethoxysilan,
• - Ethyltriethoxysilan,
• - Propyltrimethoxysilan,
• - Propyltriethoxysilan,
• - Hexyltrimethoxysilan,
• - Hexyltriethoxysilan,
• - Octyltrimethoxysilan,
• - Octyltriethoxysilan,
• - Dodecyltrimethoxysilan, und/oder
• - Dodecyltriethoxysilan.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment , wherein the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane is selected from the group from

• - methyltrimethoxysilane,
• - methyltriethoxysilane,
• - ethyltrimethoxysilane,
• - ethyltriethoxysilane,
• - propyltrimethoxysilane,
• - propyltriethoxysilane,
• - hexyltrimethoxysilane,
• - hexyltriethoxysilane,
• - octyltrimethoxysilane,
• - octyltriethoxysilane,
• - Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, and / or
• - dodecyltriethoxysilane.

The corresponding hydrolysis or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds:

Hydrolysis of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (SI) with water (reaction scheme using the example of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane):

bzw.

Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane used:

or.

Hydrolysis of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S-IV) with water (reaction scheme using the example of methyltrimethoxysilane):

bzw.

Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane used:

or.

und/oder

und/oder

und/oder

und/oder

und/oder

und/oder

Possible condensation reactions are for example (shown using the mixture (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane):

and or

and or

and or

and or

and or

and or

In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to form a dimer is shown in each case, but further condensation to form oligomers with several silane atoms are also possible and also preferred.

Both partially hydrolyzed and fully hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (SI) can take part in these condensation reactions, which condensation with as yet unreacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (SI) run through. In this case, the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (SI) react with themselves.

Furthermore, both partially hydrolyzed and fully hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (SI) can also take part in the condensation reactions, which condensation with as yet unreacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula ( S-IV). In this case, the C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilanes of the formula (SI) react with the C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV).

In addition, both partially hydrolyzed and fully hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV), which undergo condensation with unreacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes, can also take part in the condensation reactions Run through formula (S-IV). In this case, the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) react with themselves.

Coloring using pigments

In the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to previously colored keratin material. In addition to the at least one organosilicon compound, in particular the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane, at least one pigment is also used in the coloring.

Pigments in the context of the present invention are understood to mean coloring compounds which at 25 ° C. in water have a solubility of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0, 05 g / L. The water solubility can be achieved, for example, using the method described below: Weigh out 0.5 g of the pigment in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved constituents of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the pigment which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one inorganic and / or organic pigment.

Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example. Furthermore, as inorganic color pigments, black pigments such. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.

Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or metal molybdates are particularly suitable. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium Aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or carmine (Cochineal).

Color pigments which are likewise particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as the pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one pigment selected from the group of mica- or mica-based pigments with or several metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium Aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) are coated.

Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® available from Sunstar.

• Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
• Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
• Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
• Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)
• Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
• Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)
• Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510)
• Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491)
• Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE
• Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
• Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU)
• Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
• Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
• Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:

• Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
• Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
• Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
• Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)
• Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDES), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
• Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)
• Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510)
• Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491)
• Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE
• Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
• Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU)
• Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
• Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
• Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

• Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
• Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are, for example:

• Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
• Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

• Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:

• Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, the keratin material can also have been colored with at least one organic pigment before the decolorizing agent is applied.

The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene -, Diketopyrrolopyorrol-, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.

Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470 become.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, and blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108 , CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

The organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer. In the context of the invention, the term “color varnish” is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum.

The alizarin color varnish, for example, can be used as the color varnish.

Because of their excellent light and temperature resistance, coloring with the aforementioned pigments is particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the polymer film formed and, on the other hand, prevents the hair or skin feeling rough after the cosmetic agent has been applied. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably 5.0 to 45 μm, more preferably 10 to 40 μm, in particular 14 to 30 μm. The mean particle size Dso can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

Pigments with a specific shape can also have been used to color the keratin material. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or a lenticular substrate platelet can be used. Coloring on the basis of a substrate platelet which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment is also possible.

The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.

Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.

The substrate platelets are monolithic. In this context, monolithic means consisting of a single closed unit without breaks, layers or inclusions, although changes in structure can occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably constructed homogeneously, i.e. there is no concentration gradient within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets are not constructed in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein.

The size of the substrate platelet can be matched to the particular application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinic material. As a rule, the substrate platelets have a mean largest diameter of about 2 to 200 μm, in particular about 5 to 100 μm.

In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed by the ratio of the mean size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750. The mean size of the uncoated substrate flakes is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate flakes. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.

The substrate platelets can be constructed from any material that can be brought into platelet form.

They can be of natural origin, but also synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi) precious stones, as well as plastics. The substrate platelets are preferably constructed from metal (alloys).

Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered as the metal. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi) metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with substrate platelets made of aluminum being particularly preferred.

Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as “cornflakes” due to their appearance.

Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinic material and effects analogous to natural graying can be achieved, for example.

Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have an essentially regular, round edge and are also known as "silver dollars" due to their appearance. Due to their regular structure, pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets predominate in the proportion of reflected light.

Vacuum metallized pigments (VMP) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly small thickness of the substrate platelets in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to in this application as VMP substrate platelets. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

The substrate platelets made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate platelets, in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.

A color impression can be generated, for example, due to optical interference effects. Such pigments can be based on at least once coated substrate platelets. These show interference effects due to the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light beams.

Accordingly, preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lamellar substrate platelet. The substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm. A further coating A is preferably located between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet. If necessary, another coating C, which is different from the layer B below, is located on the layer B.

Suitable materials for the coatings A, B and C are all substances that can be applied permanently and in film form to the substrate platelets and, in the case of the layers A and B, have the required optical properties. In general, a coating of part of the surface of the substrate flakes is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect. For example, only the upper and / or lower side of the substrate platelets can be coated, with the side surface (s) being cut out. The entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate platelets, including the side surfaces, is preferably covered by coating B. The substrate platelets are therefore completely encased by coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical resistance of the pigments. The foregoing also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if any.

Although several coatings A, B and / or C can be present in each case, the coated substrate platelets preferably each have only one coating A, B and, if present, C.

The coating B is made up of at least one high-index metal oxide. High refractive index materials have a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0 and particularly preferably at least 2.4. The coating B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of high-index metal oxide (s).

The coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm. The thickness of coating B is preferably not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably at most 300 nm.

High refractive index metal oxides suitable for coating B are preferably selectively light-absorbing (ie colored) metal oxides such as iron (III) oxide (a- and y-Fe2O3, red), cobalt (II) oxide (blue), chromium (III) oxide (green) ), Titanium (III) oxide (blue, is usually a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium (V) oxide (orange) and their mixtures. Colorless, high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and / or zirconium oxide are also suitable.

The coating B can contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of the coating B. Organic and inorganic dyes which are stable are suitable can be built into a metal oxide coating.

The coating A preferably has at least one low refractive index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate. Coating A preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of low-refractive-index metal oxide (hydrate). Low refractive index materials have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.

The low-refractive index metal oxides which are suitable for coating A include, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide and mixtures thereof, silicon dioxide being preferred. The coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 50 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 20 nm.

The distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and the inner surface of coating B is preferably at most 100 nm, particularly preferably at most 50 nm, particularly preferably at most 20 nm. Because the thickness of coating A and thus the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and Coating B is in the range specified above, it can be ensured that the pigments have a high hiding power.

If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate flake has only one layer A, it is preferred for the pigment to have a lamellar substrate flake made of aluminum and a layer A made of silicon dioxide. If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate flake has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred for the pigment to have a lamellar substrate flake made of aluminum, a layer A made of silicon dioxide and a layer B made of iron oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments have a further coating C made of a metal oxide (hydrate), which is different from the coating B below. Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron (III) oxide and chromium (III) oxide. Silica is preferred.

The coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm. By providing the coating C, for example based on TiO ₂ , better interference can be achieved, with a high hiding power being ensured.

Layers A and C serve in particular as protection against corrosion and also for chemical and physical stabilization. Layers A and C particularly preferably contain silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide, which are applied by the sol-gel process. This method comprises dispersing the uncoated lamellar substrate flakes or the lamellar substrate flakes already coated with layer A and / or layer B in a solution of a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide (usually in a solution of organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvent and water with at least 50% by weight organic solvent such as a C1 to C4 alcohol), and adding a weak base or acid to hydrolyze the metal alkoxide, whereby a film of the metal oxide is formed on the surface of the (coated) substrate platelets.

Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent aftertreatment (for example, transferring a hydroxide-containing layer formed into the oxide layers by annealing).

Although each of the coatings A, B and / or C can be built up from a mixture of two or more metal oxides (hydrate), each of the coatings is preferably built up from a metal oxide (hydrate).

The pigments based on coated lamellar or lenticular substrate platelets or the pigments based on coated VMP substrate platelets preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 100 to 400 nm, particularly preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm, on. Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power. The small thickness of the coated substrate platelets is achieved in particular in that the thickness of the uncoated substrate platelets is small, but also in that the thicknesses of the coatings A and, if present, C are set to the smallest possible value. The thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.

The adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated substrate platelets in the keratinous material can be significantly increased by additionally modifying the outermost layer, depending on the structure, layer A, B or C, with organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids becomes. The organic compounds are bonded to the surface of the outermost layer A, B or C, preferably containing metal oxide. The outermost layer denotes the layer which is spatially furthest away from the lamellar substrate plate. The organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds which can bind to the layer A, B or C containing metal oxide. These can be either mono- or bifunctional compounds. Examples of bifunctional organic compounds are methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3- acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxy propyltriethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-Methacryloxyethyl- triethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyl tris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3- Methacryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (propoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (butoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (buttrimethoxy) silane, vinyl, propoxyethoxy, silane, vinyl, butoxyethoxy, tris (buttrimethoxy) silane, butoxyethoxy) silane, vinyl. Vinyltriethoxysilane, vinylethyl dichlorosilane, vinylmethyldiacetoxysilane, vinylmethyldichlorosilane, vinylmethyldiethoxysilane, vinyltriacetoxysilane, vinyltrichlorosilane, phenylvinyldiethoxysilane, or phenylallyldichlorosilane. Furthermore, a modification with a monofunctional silane, in particular an alkylsilane or arylsilane, can take place. This has only one functional group, which can covalently bind pigments based on coated lamellar substrate platelets (i.e. to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer) or, if it is not completely covered, to the metal surface. The hydrocarbon residue of the silane points away from the pigment. Depending on the type and nature of the hydrocarbon radical of the silane, a different degree of hydrophobicity of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc. Pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate platelets are surface-modified with a monofunctional silane. Octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hecadecyltrimethoxysilane and hecadecyltriethoxysilane are particularly preferred. The changed surface properties / hydrophobicity can improve adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment in the application.

Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.

Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Coloring using polymers

When coloring the keratin material, in particular the keratin fibers, in addition to the organosilicon compound or compounds, in particular the organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilanes and the at least one pigment, at least one film-forming polymer can also be used.

It has been found that the colorations obtained by using the combination of organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane, pigment and film-forming polymer are particularly resistant and therefore particularly difficult to decolorize. Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention is also able to decolorize these colorations again with excellent results.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by applying at least one film-forming polymer.

Polymers are understood to mean macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units. The polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers which are produced by polymerizing one type of monomer or by polymerizing different types of monomers which are structurally different from one another. If the polymer is produced by polymerizing one type of monomer, it is called a homo-polymer. If structurally different types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.

The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 ⁷ g / mol, preferably not more than 10 ⁶ g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 ⁵ g / mol amounts.

In the context of the invention, a film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer which is able to form a film on a substrate, for example on a keratinic material or a keratinous fiber. The formation of a film can be detected, for example, by viewing the keratin material treated with the polymer under a microscope.

The film-forming polymers previously used in the dyeing step can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer.

A hydrophobic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.

The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.

The polymers of the acrylic acid type, the polyurethanes, the polyesters, the polyamides, the polyureas, the cellulose polymers, the nitrocellulose polymers, the silicone polymers, the polymers of the acrylamide type and the polyisoprenes can be mentioned here in particular .

Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or the polyamides.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid , homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

In particular, the film-forming hydrophobic polymers which are selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by free radical polymerisation or natural polymers have proven to be well suited for coloring.

Further particularly suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one C ₁ -C ₂₀ - Alkyl group, an aryl group or a C ₂ -C ₁₀ -hydroxyalkyl group.

Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth) acrylate; Isononyl (meth) acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate; Lauryl (meth) acrylate); isopentyl (meth) acrylate; n-butyl (meth) acrylate); Isobutyl (meth) acrylate; Ethyl (meth) acrylate; Methyl (meth) acrylate; tert-butyl (meth) acrylate; Stearyl (meth) acrylate; Hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (methacrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate and / or mixtures thereof).

Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth) acrylamide; N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as, for example, N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, N-octyl-acrylamide; N-di (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylamide.

Other preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers. A suitable commercial product is, for example Aculyn ^® 33 from Rohm & Haas. However, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.

On the market most preferred polymers are for example Aculyn _® 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn _® 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001 _® (Acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001 _® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus _® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10- 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer) sold by Rohme and Haas.

Examples of suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl- (C1-C6-) alkyl-pyrrole, vinyl-oxazole, vinyl-thiazole, of vinylpyrimidine, of vinylimidazole.

The copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as is sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamides under the trade name DERMACRYL® are also very particularly suitable LT and DERMACRYL® 79 are sold by NATIONAL STARCH.

Examples of suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.

In a further embodiment, the block copolymers which comprise at least one block made of styrene or the derivatives of styrene can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers. These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more other blocks, such as, for example, styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene. Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.

In a further embodiment, the film-forming polymers previously used in the dyeing step can also be hydrophilic.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by using at least one film-forming hydrophilic polymer.

A hydrophilic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.

The water solubility of the film-forming hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. A completely dissolved polymer appears to be homogeneous under a markoscopy. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is more than 1% by weight.

Nonionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.

Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can, for example, from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co) polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co) polymers, vinyl acetate (co) polymers, carboxyvinyl (co) polymers, acrylic acid (co) polymers, methacrylic acid (co) polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co) polymers.

Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred to use polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of Polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

It is also preferred if the agent according to the invention contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
Particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 from BASF SE.

The polymer PVP K30, which is sold by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as another polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that is explicitly very particularly suitable. PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone which is very soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approx. 40,000 g / mol.

Other particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.

The use of film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone has also led to particularly good results.

Especially suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers Vinylester vinylpyrrolidone copolymers can be mentioned, as they are sold for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) in this context. Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.

Of the vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers, a styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions .

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are sold under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE. A VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40. A VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold, for example, under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.

The copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one other monomer from the group consisting of V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol can also be mentioned as further suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone .

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate Copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.

Another suitable copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name maltodextrin / VP copolymer.

Furthermore, intensely colored keratin material, in particular hair, could be decolorized again with very good results if a nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer was used as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

In a first embodiment, it can be preferred if the keratin material was colored in the previous coloring step with at least one nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood to mean a polymer which in a protic solvent - such as, for example, water - does not carry structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups under standard conditions, which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electrical neutrality. Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups, but not protonated amines. Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

• - Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• - Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,
• - Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N-Vinylimidazol und Methacrylamid,
• - Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N-Vinylimidazol und Acrylamid,
• - Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon mit N,N-Di(C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylamino-(C₂ bis C₄)-alkylacrylamid.

The agents used for coloring can contain at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of, for example, a nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer

• - polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• - Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
• - copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,
• - copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,
• - Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkylamino- (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide.

If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40. Suitable copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.

Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

Another very particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminiopropyl methacrylamide, which, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer z. B. is sold under the trade name Styleze _® CC 10 by the company ISP.

A cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyllauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ^® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) is sold by ISP.

• - Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550 und der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 sowie FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• - Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex^® SF 40 angeboten werden.

Further suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers are, for example

• - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as they are offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as offered commercially with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer component, for example under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.

Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinyl caprolactam and vinyl pyrrolidone with methyl vinyl imidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even most preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.

Acrylic acid polymers, for example, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form, can be used as suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers. Corresponding products are sold commercially, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Lubrizol or also under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).

Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.

Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of the polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.

Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are, for example, polymers which are produced starting from monomers of (methyl) acrylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acid or the salts thereof. Corresponding polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.

Preferred polymers of the poly (meth) arylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or else uncrosslinked.

Crosslinked and completely or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names “Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonate” or “Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide”.

Another preferred polymer of this type is the crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer sold by Clamant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS, which is partially neutralized with ammonia.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by using at least one film-forming anionic polymer.

(P-II), wobei M für ein Wasserstoffatom oder für Ammonium (NH₄), Natrium, Kalium, ½ Magnesium oder ½ Calcium steht.In this context, the best results could be obtained when the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and by using at least of a film-forming, anionic polymer was colored, wherein the film-forming, anionic polymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II)

(P-II), where M stands for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NH ₄ ), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium.

If M stands for a hydrogen atom, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on an acrylic acid unit.
If M stands for an ammonium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.
If M stands for a sodium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.
If M stands for a potassium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.
If M stands for half an equivalent of a magnesium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.
If M stands for half an equivalent of a calcium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.

Application of the decolorizer

Within the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

Since the decolorizing agent is applied to the dyed hair, the decolorizing agent must be applied to the keratin material after the previously described coloring agent has been applied.

In other words, the decolorizing agent is applied to the keratin material after the coloring agent has been rinsed out and the keratin material has preferably been dried to determine the exact color result.

The exact point in time at which the decolorizing agent is used is determined by the user's wish to remove the unwanted or no longer required color. For example, the decolorizing agent can be applied to the colored keratin material 12 to 24 hours after application of the coloring agent. In a further embodiment, the user can wear the colored keratin materials, in particular the hair, but also for a period of several days to weeks until he decides to change the color again or the user would like to have his original hair color back.

The decolorizing agent is characterized by its content of at least one solvent (a) and at least one fluorine compound (b).

Solvent (a)

The decolorizing agent contains at least one solvent (a) as the first ingredient essential to the invention.

For the purposes of the invention, a solvent is understood to mean an organic substance which is liquid at 25 ° C. and can dissolve other substances by physical means.

Even if water, as an inorganic substance, is a solvent that is particularly widespread, solvents in the context of the invention are primarily understood to mean organic liquids.

1. (a) mindestens ein organisches Lösungsmittel und
2. (b) mindestens eine Fluorverbindung

auf das gefärbte Keratinmaterial aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit wieder abgespült wird.In other words, a first object of the present invention is a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent

1. (a) at least one organic solvent and
2. (b) at least one fluorine compound

applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

In principle, different solvents can be used in the decolorizing agent, but the selection of very specific solvents has proven to be particularly advantageous with regard to achieving the best possible decolorizing effect.

Particularly suitable solvents are, for example, representatives from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, 1-pentanol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2- Ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, propylene carbonate and N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide can be used.

Benzyl alcohol is also known as phenylmethanol and has the CAS number 100-51-6.
Ethanol has the Cas number 64-17-5.
Phenoxyethanol has the Cas number 122-99-6.
Alternatively, 2-phenylethanol is also known as 2-phenylethyl alcohol and has the CAS number 60-12-8.
Alternative names for 1-pentanol are pentan-1-ol, n-pentanol or amyl alcohol. 1-Pentanol has the CAS number 71-41-0.
Alternatively, glycerine is also known as 1,2,3-propanetriol and has the CAS number 56-81-5.
1,2-Propylene glycol is alternatively also called 1,2-propanediol and has the CAS numbers 57-55-6 [(RS) -1,2-dihydroxypropane], 4254-14-2 [(R) -1 , 2-dihydroxypropane] and 4254-15-3 [(S) -1,2-dihydroxypropane].

Alternatively, ethylene glycol is also known as 1,2-ethanediol and has the CAS number 107-21-1.

Isopropanol is also known as 2-propanol and has the CAS number 67-63-0.

The dipropylene glycols (or oxydipropanols) form a group of substances that is derived from the glycol ether. The technical product of the same name (in the singular) is a mixture of three structural isomers. A dipropylene glycol according to the invention includes 2,2'-oxydi-1-propanol (CAS number 108-61-2), 1,1'-oxydi-2-propanol (CAS number 110-98-5) and 2- ( 2-Hydroxypropoxy) -1-propanol (CAS number 106-62-7) understood. The use of one of these dipropylene glycols in the decolorizing agent is also covered by the present invention, as is the use of a mixture of the second or all three of the structural isomers.

N-Octylpyrrolidone is alternatively also called N-Octyl-2-pyrrolidone or Caprilyl-pyrrolidone and has the CAS number 2687-94-7. This solvent can be obtained commercially, for example, under the trade name Surfadone LP 100 from Ashland (formerly ISP Global).

Methoxybutanol can alternatively be referred to as 3-methoxy-1-butanol and has the CAS number 2517-43-3. The solvent can be purchased, for example, as methoxybutanol from Biesterfeld.
The IUPAC name for ethyl diglycol is 2- (2-ethoxyethoxy) -ethanol, ethyl diglycol has the CAS number 111-90-0.

For the purposes of the present invention, polyethylene glycols are polymers of the general empirical formula C _2n H _4n + ₂ O _{n + 1 that are} liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). The repeating unit of the linear polymer is (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-), with a molar mass of about 44 g · mol ^-1 . Chemically it is a polyether. Particularly suitable polyethylene glycols are those with an average molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 400 g / mol, which are non-volatile liquids at room temperature.

1,3-Butanediol is alternatively also known as butane-1,3-diol or 1,3-butylene glycol and has the CAS numbers 107-88-0 (racemate), 6290-03-5 [(R) -1, 3-butanediol] and 24621-61-2 [(S) - (+) - 1,3-butanediol]. All stereoisomers of 1,3-butanediol are encompassed by the invention.

An alternative name for 1,6-hexanediol is 1,6-dihydroxyhexane. 1,6-Hexanediol has the CAS number 629-11-8.

Propylene carbonate is alternatively referred to as 4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one or as propylene glycol carbonate or as carbonic acid propylene glycol ester and has the CAS numbers 108-32-7 [(RS) -4-methyl-1,3-dioxolane -2-one], 51260-39-0 [(S) -4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one] and 16606-55-6 [(R) -4-methyl-1,3-dioxolane -2-on]. All stereoisomers of propylene carbonate are encompassed by the invention.

N, N-Dimethyl-9-decenamid has the CAS number 1356964-77-6.

In the context of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is at least one solvent (a) from the group
Benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, 1-pentanol, glycerine, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1, Contains 6-hexanediol, propylene carbonate and N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent has at least one solvent (a) from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, 1-pentanol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1 , 2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and propylene carbonate.

Within the group of the aforementioned solvents (a), the very best results could be obtained when using benzyl alcohol as the solvent.

1. (a) Benzylalkohol und
2. (b) mindestens eine Fluorverbindung

auf das gefärbte Keratinmaterial aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit wieder abgespült wird.Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent, is explicitly very particularly preferred

1. (a) benzyl alcohol and
2. (b) at least one fluorine compound

applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

It has been found to be advantageous to use the aforementioned solvents (a) in certain quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent. A particularly complete color removal could be observed when the decolorizing agent - based on its total weight - one or more solvents (a) in a total amount of 3 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more solvents (a) in a total amount of 3 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 75% by weight. %, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight.

Benzyl alcohol, which is the solvent (a) with the very best decolorizing effect, is also preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent. Particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - 3 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight benzyl alcohol.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - is from 3 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight. %, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight of benzyl alcohol.

Fluorine compounds (b)

The decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention contains at least one fluorine compound (b) as a second constituent which is essential to the invention.

In the context of the present invention, the term “fluorine compound” means compounds which contain at least one fluorine atom.

These compounds can be inorganic or organic fluorine compounds.

1. (a) mindestens ein Lösungsmittel und
2. (b) mindestens eine anorganische und/oder organische Fluorverbindung

auf das gefärbte Keratinmaterial aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit wieder abgespült wird.In other words, the first subject matter of the present invention is a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent

1. (a) at least one solvent and
2. (b) at least one inorganic and / or organic fluorine compound

applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

The fluorine compounds are preferably understood to mean salts which contain at least one fluoride anion.

According to the invention, sodium, potassium and zinc salts of fluoride, fluorophosphates and fluorosilicates are advantageously used. Preferred decolorizing agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the at least one fluorine compound (b) is selected from the group consisting of tetrabutylammonium fluoride, sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, sodium monofluorophosphate, zinc fluoride, tin fluoride, sodium fluorosilicate, cetylamine hydrofluoride and bis (hydroxyethyl) amine propyl -octadecylamine-dihydrofluoride

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one fluorine compound (b) selected from the group consisting of tetrabutylammonium fluoride, sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, sodium monofluorophosphate, zinc fluoride, tin fluoride, sodium fluorosilicate, cetylamine hydrofluoride and bis (hydroxyamine hydrofluoride) ) aminopropyl-N-hydroxyethyl-octadecylamine-dihydrofluoride.

Tetrabutylammonium fluoride has the CAS number 22206-57-1 and can be obtained commercially in the form of its hydrate from Sigma Aldrich.

Sodium fluoride is available, for example, from Brenntag GmbH under the trade name Sodium fluoride 98/100% or Sodium fluoride Tech Pure.

Cetylamine hydrofluoride has the CAS number 3151-59-5 and can be obtained commercially from Merck, for example. Cetylamine hydrofluoride is known under the trade name Hetaflur.

Bis (hydroxyethyl) aminopropyl-N-hydroxyethyl-octadecylamine-dihydrofluoride has the CAS number 6818-37-7. Alternative names are N, N, N'-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) -N'-octadecyl-1,3-diaminopropane dihydrofluoride and N, N, N'-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) -N'-octadecyl-1,3 -diaminopropane dihydrofluoride. This fluorine compound can be obtained commercially from Merck, for example, as a mixture with propylene glycol under the trade name RonaCare Olafluor.

The at least one fluorine compound is preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent in order to ensure sufficient effectiveness. The decolorizing agent therefore advantageously contains - based on its total weight - one or more fluorine compounds (b) in a total amount of from 0.001 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0 , 1 to 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more fluorine compounds (b) in a total amount of 0.001 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight.

Cationic surfactants in the decolorizer

To further intensify the decolorizing effect, the decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention can also contain at least one cationic surfactant.

Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, that is to say surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants only contain positive charges. These surfactants are usually composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon structure (e.g. consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micelle concentration to form positively charged micelles.

• -quartäre Ammniumverbindungen, die als hydrophobe Reste ein oder zwei Alkylketten mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 28 C-Atomen tragen können
• -quartäre Phosphoniumsalze, substituiert mit einer oder mehreren Alkylketten mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 28 C-Atomen oder
• - tertiäre Sulfonium-Salze.

Weiterhin kann die kationische Ladung auch in Form einer Onium-Struktur Bestandteil eines heterozyklischen Ringes (z.B. eines Imidazoliumringe oder einer Pyridiniumringes) sein. Neben der funktionellen Einheit, welche die kationische Ladung trägt, kann das Kationtensid auch weitere ungeladene funktionelle Gruppen beinhalten, dies ist beispielsweise bei Esterquats der Fall.Examples of cationic surfactants are

• - Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as hydrophobic radicals
• Quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms or
• - tertiary sulfonium salts.

Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (eg an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional unit that carries the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups; this is the case, for example, with esterquats.

wobei

RT1, RT2

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe, eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe oder eine Hydroxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe stehen,

RT3

für eine Hydroxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine C₁-C₇-Alkylgruppe, eine C₈-C₃₀-Alkylgruppe, oder für eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe steht,

RT4

für eine C₈-C₃₀-Alkylgruppe steht und

XT''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht.

Within the group of cationic surfactants, the cationic ammonium compounds of the formula (TI) have proven to be particularly suitable due to their particularly good effectiveness in decolorizing agents,

in which

RT1, RT2

independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

RT3

represents a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₇ -alkyl group, a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group, or a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group,

RT4

represents a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group and

XT ''

stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

wobei

RT1, RT2

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe, eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe oder eine Hydroxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe stehen,

RT3

für eine Hydroxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine C₁-C₇-Alkylgruppe, eine C₈-C₃₀-Alkylgruppe oder für eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe steht,

RT4

für eine C₈-C₃₀-Alkylgruppe steht und

XT''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from among cationic surfactants of the general formula (T-1),

in which

RT1, RT2

independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

RT3

represents a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₇ -alkyl group, a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group,

RT4

represents a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group and

XT ''

stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

RT1 and RT2 are preferably, independently of one another, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. It is particularly preferred if RT1 and RT2 independently of one another represent a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, RT1 and RT2 both stand for a methyl group or both for an ethyl group.

RT4 and optionally RT3 stand for a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group. These alkyl groups can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated. If the C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group is unsaturated, it can be mono- or polyunsaturated, ie it can have one or more double bonds.

RT3 is preferably a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group. RT3 very particularly preferably represents a 2-hydroxyethyl group.

If RT4 stands for a linear, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ -alkyl group, this has a particularly advantageous effect on the decolorizing performance of the decolorizing agent. RT4 therefore preferably stands for a linear, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ -alkyl group. It is very particularly preferred if RT4 is a linear, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ -alkyl group.

RT1, RT2

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe, bevorzugt für eine Methylgruppe oder für eine Ethylgruppe, stehen,

RT3

für eine Hydroxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe, bevorzugt für eine 2-Hydroxyethylgruppe, steht,

RT4

für eine C₁₂-C₃₀-Alkylgruppe, bevorzugt für eine C₁₂-C₂₂-Alkylgruppe, weiter bevorzugt für eine C₁₂-C₁₈-Alkylgruppe und ganz besonders bevorzugt für eine C16-Alkylgruppe oder für eine C18-Alkylgruppe steht, und

XT''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion aus der Gruppe aus Dihydrogenphosphat, Hydrogenphosphat, Phosphat, Chlorid, Bromid, Fluorid, Acetat, Lactat, Methylsulfat, Ethylsulfat, p-Toluolsulfonat, Citrat, Tartrat, Maleat oder Fumarat steht.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the general formula (T-1), where

RT1, RT2

independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group,

RT3

represents a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably a 2-hydroxyethyl group,

RT4

represents a C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group, preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -alkyl group, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyl group and very particularly preferably a C16-alkyl group or a C18-alkyl group, and

XT ''

stands for a physiologically acceptable anion from the group of dihydrogen phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, phosphate, chloride, bromide, fluoride, acetate, lactate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, p-toluenesulfonate, citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate.

RT1, RT2

beide für eine Methylgruppe stehen,

RT3

für eine 2-Hydroxyethylgruppe steht,

RT4

für eine lineare, gesättigte C₁₆-C₁₈-Alkylgruppe steht.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the general formula (T-1), where

RT1, RT2

both stand for a methyl group,

RT3

represents a 2-hydroxyethyl group,

RT4

represents a linear, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group.

Particularly preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (T-I) are, for example, physiologically compatible salts of hexadecyl (2-hydroxyethyl) dimethylammonium.

For example, the raw material hexadecyl (2-hydroxyethyl) dimethylammonium dihydrogen phosphate (CAS number 85563-48-0) is sold commercially by BASF under the trade name Luviquat Mono CP.

The salts of N, N, N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanamine, in particular N, N, N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanamine chloride, can also be mentioned as further preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (TI). A corresponding salt is sold, for example, under the trade name Dehyquart A-CA. Likewise Salts of trimethylstearylammonium, in particular trimethylstearylammonium chloride, which is also commercially available under the trade name Genamin STAC, are preferred.

Further particularly preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (I) are salts of trimethyl-1-eicosanaminium, especially trimethyl-1-eicosanaminium chloride, and salts of trimethyl-1-docosanaminium, especially trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride. A mixture of both compounds is available from Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP.

Further suitable cationic surfactants (b) can also be selected from the group of the cationic imidazolium compounds. Within the group of the cationic imidazolium compounds, compounds of the formula (T-II) have also been found to be particularly advantageous with regard to use in a decolorizing process.

worin

RT5

für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe steht

RT6, RT7

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₇-C₂₇-Alkylgruppe stehen und

XT''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht.

In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (T-II),

wherein

RT5

represents a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group

RT6, RT7

independently of one another represent a C ₇ -C ₂₇ -alkyl group and

XT ''

stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

RT6 and RT7 each independently represent a C ₇ -C ₂₇ -alkyl group. These alkyl groups can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated. If the C ₇ -C ₂₇ -alkyl group is unsaturated, it can be mono- or polyunsaturated, ie it can have one or more double bonds.

RT5 stands for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, very particularly preferably RT5 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group.

RT5

für eine Methylgruppe steht,

RT6, RT7

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₈-C₂₇-Alkylgruppe stehen und

X''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht.

The decolorizing agent according to the invention gave good results in particular when it contained a cationic surfactant of the formula (T-II), in which

RT5

stands for a methyl group,

RT6, RT7

independently represent a C ₈ -C ₂₇ -alkyl group and

X ''

stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

Particularly preferred compounds of the formula (T-II) are known under the INCI name Quaternium-87, which are also sold under the trade names Varisoft W 575 PB or Revoquat PG 75.

worin

RT8, RT9

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe oder eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkylgruppe stehen,

RT10, RT11

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₇-C₂₇-Alkylgruppe stehen und

XT''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht.

In addition, a decolorizing agent having high performance in terms of color proofing could be obtained when at least one compound from the esterquat group was used as the cationic surfactant. The name esterquats is a collective name for cationic surface-active compounds with two hydrophobic groups that are linked via ester bonds with a quaternized di- or triethanolamine or an analogous compound. Very particularly suitable ester quats are the compounds of the formula (T-III),

wherein

RT8, RT9

independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group,

RT10, RT11

independently of one another represent a C ₇ -C ₂₇ -alkyl group and

XT ''

stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

worin

RT8, RT9

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe oder eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkylgruppe stehen,

RT10, RT11

unabhängig voneinander für eine C₇-C₂₇-Alkylgruppe stehen und

XT''

für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (T-III),

wherein

RT8, RT9

independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group,

RT10, RT11

independently of one another represent a C ₇ -C ₂₇ -alkyl group and

XT ''

stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

The substituents of the compound of the formula (TI) to (T-III) are explained by way of example below: Examples of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t -Butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group ; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.

XT "in the formulas (TI) to (T-III) in each case stands for a physiologically compatible anion. Suitable physiologically compatible anions are phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, halide, hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, acetate, citrate, lactate , Tartrate, methyl sulfate (H ₃ COSO ₃ ^- ), methyl sulfoanthate or trifluoromethanesulfonate. A ^{- is} particularly preferably chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate (H ₃ COSO ₃ ^- ).

By choosing the optimized amounts of one or more cationic surfactants used in the decolorizing agent according to the invention, its application properties can be further improved. The decolorizing agent preferably contains - based on its total weight - one or more cationic ones Surfactants in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 3.5 wt%.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more cationic surfactants in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 3.5% by weight.

Alkalizing agent in the decolorizing agent

To further improve the decolorizing performance, the decolorizing agents used in the process according to the invention can optionally also contain one or more alkalizing agents.

Suitable alkalizing agents can be selected from the group consisting of the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkanolamines, the basic amino acids, ammonia, the alkali metal metasilicates, the alkaline earth metal metasilicates, the alkali metal silicates, the alkaline earth metal silicates, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides , the alkali metal phosphates and that of the alkaline earth metal phosphates.

Alkanolamines can be selected from primary amines with a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group which is formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), triethanolamine (alternatively also referred to as tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan 1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan 4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3- diol.

An amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which in its structure contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SO ₃ H group. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α- (alpha) -aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.

According to the invention, basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 of greater than 7.0.

Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally preferred isomer form, usually in the L configuration.

The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group that is formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.

Ammonia can for example be used in the form of a 10 to 40% strength aqueous solution in the decolorizing agent.

Sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate, for example, can be mentioned as suitable alkali metal metasilicate. Magnesium metasilicate and calcium metasilicate can be mentioned as suitable alkaline earth metal metasilicates.

Sodium silicate and potassium silicate, for example, can be mentioned as suitable alkali metal silicates. Magnesium silicate and calcium silicate, for example, can be mentioned as suitable alkaline earth metal metasilicates.

Further inorganic alkalizing agents from the group of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides which can be used according to the invention are, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and barium hydroxide.

Further inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention from the group of alkali metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates and alkali hydrogen carbonates are, for example, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and potassium hydrogen carbonate.

Further inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention from the group of the alkali metal phosphates and that of the alkaline earth metal phosphates are, for example, sodium phosphate and potassium phosphate.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, the Alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali carbonates, alkaline earth carbonates, alkali hydrogen carbonates, alkali metal phosphates and alkaline earth metal phosphates.

A particularly good decolorizing effect could be achieved if the decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention contained 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine) and / or triethanolamine (alternatively also referred to as tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine).

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol and triethanolamine.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains 2-aminoethan-1-ol and triethanolamine.

Furthermore, particularly good results could be obtained in decolorizing tests if the decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention contained sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate and / or potassium silicate.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group of sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate and / or potassium silicate.

Water content in the decolorizer

To further optimize the decolorizing effect, it has been found to be advantageous to set the water content in the decolorizing agent to certain values. It is particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 5 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 15 to 50 and very particularly preferably 20 to 40 wt .-% water contains.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 5 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 15 to 50 and very particularly preferably contains 20 to 40 wt .-% water.

pH values of the decolorizer

In further experiments it has been found that the pH values of the decolorizing agent have an influence on its decolorizing performance. The best results were obtained when the decolorizing agent was adjusted to pH values in the range from 8.5 to 12.5, preferably from 9.5 to 12.0, more preferably from 9.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably from 9 .5 to 11.0 was set.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent has a pH value of 8.5 to 12.5, preferably 9.5 to 12.0, more preferably 9.5 to 11.5 and most preferably from 9.5 to 11.0.

The pH values can be measured using the usual methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, measurement by means of glass electrodes using combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper respectively. The pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.

The pH value is preferably set by using the alkalizing agent (s) (b) in the appropriate quantity ranges. To fine-tune the pH, it may also be necessary to add acidifying agents in smaller quantities

other surfactants in the decolorizing agent

The decolorizing performance of the decolorizing agent used in the method according to the invention can be further improved by using at least one further surfactant.

The term surfactants (T) is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or can aggregate in volume phases to form micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.

A particularly good effect could be observed when the decolorizing agent contained at least one anionic surfactant.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least an anionic surfactant.

Anionic surfactants according to the invention are characterized by the presence of a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups, and hydroxyl groups.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxymix ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, monoglyceride and dialsulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, monoglyceride and dial sulfates, monoglyceride and dial sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and monoglycerides Dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulpho triglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside-based products, in particular phosphate-based (ethereal) products based on wheat (alkyl oligoglucoside) and, in particular, vegetable (ethereal) wheat-based products (alkyl oligoglucoside-based products) and alkyl phosphates, protein fatty acids, and alkyl phosphates, protein fatty acids, and alkyl phosphates, protein fatty acids. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.

• - lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• - Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• - Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• - Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• - Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, die durch Veresterung von Fettsäuren mit dem Natriumsalz der 2-Hydroxyethan-sulfonsäure (Isethionsäure) zugänglich sind. Wenn man für diese Veresterung Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen, also z. B. Laurin-, Myristin-, Palimitin- oder Stearinsäure oder auch technische Fettsäurefraktionen, z. B. die aus Kokosfettsäure erhältliche C₁₂-C₁₈-Fettsäurefraktion einsetzt, erhält man die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt geeigneten C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylisethionate,
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen. Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester können durch Umsetzung von Maleinsäureanhydrid mit einem Fettalkohol mit 8 - 24 C-Atomen zum Maleinsäuremonoester des Fettalkohols und Weiterreaktion mit Natriumsulfit zum Sulfobernsteinsäureester hergestellt werden. Besonders geeignete Sulfobernsteinsäureester leiten sich von Fettalkoholfraktionen mit 12 - 18 C-Atomen ab, wie sie z. B. aus Kokosfettsäure oder Kokosfettsäuremethylester durch Hydrierung zugänglich sind,
• - lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• - lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• - Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• - Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• - Hydroxysulfonate im wesentlichen entsprechend mindestens einer der beiden folgenden Formeln oder deren Mischungen sowie deren salzen,

CH₃-(CH₂)_y-CHOH-(CH₂)_p-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H, und/oder CH₃-(CH₂)_y-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_p-CHOH-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H wobei in beiden Formeln y und z = 0 oder ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 18, p = 0, 1 oder 2 und die Summe (y+z+p) eine Zahl von 12 bis 18, x = 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 4 sowie M = H oder Alkali-, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkali- , insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink und/oder einem Ammoniumion, welches gegebenenfalls substituiert sein kann, insbesondere Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Tetraammoniumionen mit C1 bis C4 Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Arylresten,

• - sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether der Formel R¹-(CHOSO₃M)-CHR³-(OCHR⁴-CH₂)n-OR² mit R¹, einem linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R² für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R³ für Wasserstoff oder einen linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R⁴ für Wasserstoff oder einen Methylrest und M für Wasserstoff, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium, worin die Alkyl- und Alkanolreste je 1 bis 4 C-Atome aufweisen, oder ein Metallatom ausgewählt aus Lithium, Natrium, Kalium, Calcium oder Magnesium und n für eine Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 12 stehen und weiterhin die Gesamtzahl der in R¹ und R³ enthaltenen C-Atome 2 bis 44 beträgt,
• - Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• - Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• -Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel, R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-(PO-OX)-OR², in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄ - Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• - sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel RCO(AlkO)_nSO₃M in der RCO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Metall steht, wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4 - Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• - Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel R⁸OC-(OCH₂CH₂)_x-OCH₂-[CHO(CH₂CH₂O)_yH]-CH₂O(CH₂CH₂O)_z-SO₃X, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R¹-CO-NR²-CH₂CH₂-O-(CH₂CH₂O)_nCH₂COOM, mit R¹ als geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit einer Zahl an Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette von 2 bis 30, n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20 und R² steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, t-Butyl- oder iso-Butylrest und M steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Metall wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder ein Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4 - Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Derartige Produkte sind beispielsweise von der Firma Chem-Y unter der Produktbezeichnung Akypo^® erhältlich, und
• - Acylglutamate der Formel XOOC-CH2CH2CH(C(NH)OR)-COOX, in der RCO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 und/oder 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht.

Examples of anionic surfactants according to the invention are, each in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• - Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• - acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you use fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms for this esterification, e.g. B. lauric, myristic, palimitic or stearic acid or technical fatty acid fractions, e.g. B. if the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used, the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates which are preferred according to the invention are obtained,
• - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. Sulphosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters can be converted into the maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol with 8-24 carbon atoms Further reaction with sodium sulfite to form sulfosuccinic acid ester can be produced. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions with 12-18 carbon atoms, as z. B. from coconut fatty acid or coconut fatty acid methyl ester are accessible by hydrogenation,
• - linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• - hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and their salts,

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n one integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which can optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri - or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,

• - Sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers of the formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical with 1 to 24 C atoms, R ² for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical with 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ³ for hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical with 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or a methyl radical and M for hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range from 0 to 12 and also the total number in R ¹ and R ³ contained carbon atoms is 2 to 44,
• - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• - Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• -Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula, R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another being hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulphated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a metal, such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another standing for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical,
• - Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total are 0 or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts in the form of their sodium sulfonic acid or their sodium sulfonic acid adducts. Preference is given to using monoglyceride sulfates in which R ⁸ CO stands for a linear acyl radical with 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical with a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n stands for an integer from 1 to 20 and R ² stands for hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n- Butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl radical and M stands for hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another, represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®, and
• - Acyl glutamates of the formula XOOC-CH2CH2CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX, in which RCO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X for hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.

• - Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist.

The treatment of the colored keratinous material with a decolorizing agent containing the aforementioned anionic surfactants has led to very good results in the decolorizing test. Surprisingly, it has been shown here that the decolorizing capacity could be further optimized by using one or more special anionic surfactants. A particularly good color removal could be obtained if the keratin material was treated with at least one anionic surfactant (b) from the group of

• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ —CH ₂ O) _x —OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12.

• - Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group of

• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ —CH ₂ O) _x —OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12.

The decolorizing agents according to the invention preferably contain one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 16.0 % By weight and very particularly preferably from 7.0 to 14.0% by weight.

The data in% by weight are based on the total amount of all anionic surfactants, which are related to the total amount of the decolorizing agent.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the agent - has one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 3, 0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 16.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 7.0 to 14.0% by weight.

Fat components in the decolorizing agent

The decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention can also contain at least one fat component as a further optional component.

The fat components are hydrophobic substances which, in the presence of water, can form emulsions with the formation of micelle systems.

For the purposes of the invention, “fat components” are organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight Roger that. The definition of fat components explicitly only includes uncharged (i.e. non-ionic) compounds. Fat components have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fat constituents is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fat components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.

The fat components are very particularly preferably selected from the group of the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ - Fatty acid triglycerides, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoglycerides, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid diglycerides and / or the hydrocarbons.

Especially preferred fat ingredients are used in this context, the components from the group of C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -Fettsäuremonoglyceride, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ and -Fettsäurediglyceride / or understood the hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only nonionic substances are explicitly considered as fat components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not understood as a fat component.

The C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

Examples of preferred linear, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecyl alcohol -1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).

Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z) -Octadeca-9, 12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1- ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -Docosen-1-ot).

The preferred representatives of branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

In one embodiment, particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent contains one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols from the group consisting of dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), Hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol) , (9Z) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-diene-1 -ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol ( (5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1-ol), brassidyl alcohol ((13E) - Docosen-1-ol) contains 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent consists of one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols from the group
Dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol),
Tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol),
Hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol),
Octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol),
Arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol),
Heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol),
Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol),
(9Z) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol),
(9E) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol),
(9Z, 12Z) -Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol),
(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol),
Gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1-ol),
Arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol),
Erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1 -ol),
Brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -docosen-1-ol),
2-octyl-dodecanol,
2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or
Contains 2-butyl-dodecanol.

It has proven to be very particularly preferred to use one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols in very specific quantity ranges.

It is very particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 40 , 0% by weight, more preferably from 6.0 to 30.0% by weight, even more preferably from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight .-% contains.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0 wt. %, preferably from 4.0 to 40.0% by weight, more preferably from 6.0 to 30.0% by weight, even more preferably from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferred contains from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight.

Furthermore, as a very particularly preferred fat component, the decolorizing agent can also contain at least one C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglyceride, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoglyceride and / or C12 -C30 fatty acid diglyceride. For the purposes of the present invention, a C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglyceride is understood to mean the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can be involved in the ester formation.

According to the invention, fatty acids are to be understood as meaning saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In the case of an unsaturated fatty acid, its CC double bond (s) can have the cis or trans configuration.

The fatty acid triglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which at least one of the ester groups is formed starting from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (Stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) -octadec-9-enoic acid] , Elaidic acid [(9E) -octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11E, 13E) -Octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -lcosa-5, 8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid].

The fatty acid triglycerides can also be of natural origin. The fatty acid triglycerides or mixtures thereof occurring in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, avocado oil, almond oil and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil, or mixtures thereof, are particularly suitable for use in the product according to the invention.

A C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoglyceride is understood as meaning the monoester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the middle hydroxyl group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with the fatty acid.

The C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable, in which a hydroxyl group of the glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid, the fatty acids being selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (Lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) -octadec -9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E) -octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [ (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11E, 13E) -Octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -lcosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid].

A C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid diglyceride is understood as meaning the diester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. Either the middle and one terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of the glycerol are esterified with one fatty acid each. The glycerine can be esterified with two structurally identical as well as with two different fatty acids.

The fatty acid diglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (Stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) -octadec-9-enoic acid] , Elaidic acid [(9E) -octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, Eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11E, 13E) -octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -lcosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [ (15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid].

Very particularly good results were obtained when the composition (B) contained at least one C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoglyceride, which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), Hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-oleic acid] [(9Z) -Octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E) -octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9, 12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11E, 13E) -octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(SZ, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Icosa-S, 8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z) - tetracos-15-enoic acid].

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoglyceride which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, Tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid.

The rate of the starting from the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes can also be influenced by choosing the appropriate amounts of C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides Film formation are particularly strongly influenced. For this reason, it has proven to be particularly preferred to use one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides in very specific quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent .

With a view to solving the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.8 to 5.0% by weight.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.8 to 5.0% by weight.

The C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides can be used as sole fat constituents in the decolorizing agent. However, it is very particularly preferred to use at least one C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglyceride in combination with at least one C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol in the Incorporate decolourant

Furthermore, as a particularly preferred fat component, the decolorizing agent can also contain at least one hydrocarbon.

Hydrocarbons are compounds with 8 to 80 C atoms that consist exclusively of carbon and hydrogen. In this context, aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g. Paraffinium Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petrolatum and polydecene are particularly preferred.

Liquid paraffin oils (Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinium Perliquidum) have proven to be particularly suitable in this context. The hydrocarbon is very particularly preferably Paraffinum Liquidum, also called white oil. Paraffinum Liquidum is a mixture of purified, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbons, which mostly consists of hydrocarbon chains with a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.

Particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent contained at least one hydrocarbon selected from the group of mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petrolatum and polydecene.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one fat component from the group of hydrocarbons.

It can also prove to be very particularly preferred to use one or more hydrocarbons in very specific quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent.

With regard to the solution to the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 1 , 0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight.

Other cosmetic ingredients in the decolorizing agent

In addition to the ingredients which are essential to the invention and which can be used optionally, as already described above, the decolorizing agent can also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.

The person skilled in the art will select these additional substances according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

Application of the decolorizer

In the context of the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent described above is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

It can be used, for example, with the (gloved) hand or with the aid of an applicator, such as a brush or an aplicette, or else a brush or a comb.

Depending on whether the user wants a complete decolorization or whether only certain parts or If strands are to be decolorized, the decolorizing agent can be applied either to the entire keratinous material (such as, for example, the entire scalp hair) or to certain parts or corresponding strands of the keratin material or the keratin fibers.

After application, the decolorizing agent is allowed to act on the keratin material for a certain period of time. For example, the exposure time can last from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 5 to 40 minutes and very particularly preferably from 5 to 30 minutes. After this exposure time, the decolorizing agent is rinsed out again with water

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably 5 to 40 minutes and very particularly preferably 5 to 30 minutes.

• - das Entfärbemittel auf das gefärbte Keratinmaterial aufgetragen wird
• - das Keratinmaterial während des Einwirkens des Entfärbemittels auf eine Temperatur von 25 bis 70 °, bevorzugt von 25 bis 60 °C, weiter bevorzugt von 30 bis 55 °C und ganz besonders bevorzugt von 40 bis 55 °C erhitzt wird, und dann
• - das Entfärbemittel wieder abgespült wird.

The action of the decolorizing agent on the keratin material can be carried out at room temperature or at body temperature. To support or accelerate the color removal, the keratin material to which the decolorizing agent has been applied can, however, also be exposed to elevated temperatures. According to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material, while the keratin material is applied to a temperature of 25 to 70 °, preferably 25 to 60 ° C, more preferably 30 to 55 ° C and very particularly preferably of 40 to 55 ° C is heated.
In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that

• - the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material
• the keratin material is heated to a temperature of 25 to 70 °, preferably 25 to 60 ° C, more preferably 30 to 55 ° C and very particularly preferably 40 to 55 ° C during the action of the decolorizing agent, and then
• - the decolorizer is rinsed off again.

In addition to the thermal support of the decolorizing process, it is also possible to subject the keratin material to which the decolorizing agent has been applied to mechanical stress in order to improve the detachment of the film formed on the keratin material during the coloring process. For example, the keratin material can be massaged with the hands or combed with a comb or brush during the decolorization process. Any other mechanical stress that is suitable for improving the detachment of the colored film from the keratin material under the action of the decolorizing agent is also conceivable and encompassed by the method according to the invention.

• - das Entfärbemittel auf das gefärbte Keratinmaterial aufgetragen wird,
• - das Keratinmaterial während des Einwirkens des Entfärbemittels gekämmt, massiert, gebürstet oder auf eine andere Weise einer mechanischen Krafteinwirkung ausgesetzt wird, und dann
• - das Entfärbemittel wieder abgespült wird.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that

• - the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material,
• the keratin material is combed, massaged, brushed or otherwise subjected to a mechanical force during the action of the decolorizing agent, and then
• - the decolorizer is rinsed off again.

As already described above, the decolorizing agent according to the invention can be used to decolorize keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment. For example, if the user finds after coloring that the color result does not meet his requirements, he can use this as an opportunity to remove the coloring again by using the decolorizing agent.

Furthermore, the user can also plan a coloring and the subsequent decoloration in advance, for example if he wants to color his hair for a specific occasion and then decolor it again. For this purpose, all agents or formulations that are necessary for both coloring and decolorizing can be made available to the user.

1. (1) Auftragen eines Färbemittels auf die Haare, wobei das Färbemittel ein oder mehrere organische C₁-C₆-Alkoxy-Silane und/oder deren Kondensationsprodukte, und ein oder mehrere Pigmente enthält,
2. (2) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels auf die Haare,
3. (3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels aus den Haaren,
4. (4) Auftragen eines Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die Haare, wobei das Nachbehandlungsmittel mindestens ein filmbildendes Polymer enthält,
5. (5) Einwirkenlassen des Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die Haare,
6. (6) Ausspülen des Nachbehandlungsmittels aus den Haaren,
7. (7) Auftragen eines Entfärbemittels, wie bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstand im Detail offenbart wurde, auf die Haare,
8. (8) Einwirkenlassen des Entfärbemittels auf die Haare und
9. (9) Ausspülen des Entfärbemittels aus den Haaren.

A second object of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps:

1. (1) Applying a coloring agent to the hair, the coloring agent containing one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products, and one or more pigments,
2. (2) Allowing the dye to act on the hair,
3. (3) rinsing the dye out of the hair,
4. (4) applying a post-treatment agent to the hair, the post-treatment agent containing at least one film-forming polymer,
5. (5) Allowing the aftertreatment agent to act on the hair,
6. (6) rinsing the post-treatment agent from the hair,
7. (7) applying a decolorizing agent, as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, to the hair,
8. (8) Allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair and
9. (9) Rinse the decolorizer out of the hair.

• (4) Auftragen eines Färbemittels auf die Haare, wobei Färbemittel ein oder mehrere Pigmente und ein oder mehrere filmbildende Polymere enthält.

In the context of a further embodiment, a corresponding method is also preferred, comprising the

• (4) Applying a coloring agent to the hair, the coloring agent containing one or more pigments and one or more film-forming polymers.

1. (1) Auftragen eines Vorbehandlungsmittels auf die Haare, wobei das Vorbehandlungsmittel ein oder mehrere organische C₁-C₆-Alkoxy-Silane und/oder deren Kondensationsprodukte enthält,
2. (2) Einwirkenlassen des Vorbehandlungsmittels auf die Haare,
3. (3) Ausspülen des Vorbehandlungsmittels aus den Haaren,
4. (4) Auftragen eines Färbemittels auf die Haare, wobei Färbemittel ein oder mehrere Pigmente enthält,
5. (5) Einwirkenlassen des Färbemittels auf die Haare,
6. (6) Ausspülen des Färbemittels aus den Haaren,
7. (7) Auftragen eines Entfärbemittels, wie es bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands im Detail offenbart wurde, auf die Haare,
8. (8) Einwirkenlassen des Entfärbemittels auf die Haare und
9. (9) Ausspülen des Entfärbemittels aus den Haaren.

Another object of the present invention is also a method for dyeing and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps:

1. (1) Applying a pretreatment agent to the hair, the pretreatment agent containing one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products,
2. (2) Allowing the pretreatment agent to act on the hair,
3. (3) rinsing the pretreatment agent from the hair,
4. (4) applying a dye to the hair, the dye containing one or more pigments,
5. (5) allowing the dye to act on the hair,
6. (6) rinsing the dye out of the hair,
7. (7) applying a decolorizing agent, as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, to the hair,
8. (8) Allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair and
9. (9) Rinse the decolorizer out of the hair.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The pigments were already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The decolorizing agent was also disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

• (4) Auftragen eines Färbemittels auf die Haare, wobei Färbemittel ein oder mehrere Pigmente und ein oder mehrere filmbildende Polymere enthält.

In the context of a further embodiment, a corresponding method is preferred, comprising the

• (4) Applying a coloring agent to the hair, the coloring agent containing one or more pigments and one or more film-forming polymers.

The film-forming polymers have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

Multi-component packaging unit

It is particularly convenient for the user if the appropriate coloring and decolorizing agents are made available to him in the form of a multi-component packaging unit.

• - einen ersten Container mit einem Mittel, welches ein oder mehrere organische C₁-C₆-Alkoxy Silane und/oder deren Kondensationsprodukte enthält,
• - einen zweiten Container mit einem Mittel, welches mindestens ein Pigment enthält,
• - einen dritten Container, welcher ein Entfärbemittel enthält, wie es bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstand im Detail offenbart wurde, und
• - gegebenenfalls einen vierten Container mit einem Mittel, welches mindestens ein filmbildendes Polymer enthält.

The present invention therefore also relates to a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring and decolorizing keratin material, comprehensively packaged separately from one another:

• - A first container with an agent which contains one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy silanes and / or their condensation products,
• - a second container with an agent which contains at least one pigment,
• a third container which contains a decolorizing agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, and
• - optionally a fourth container with an agent which contains at least one film-forming polymer.

Another object of the invention is the use of a decolorizing agent, as it was disclosed in the description of the first subject matter of the invention in detail, for decolorizing keratinous material, which by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a Condensation product thereof and colored by applying at least one pigment.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The pigments were already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The decolorizing agent was also disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

With regard to the further preferred embodiments of the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention and the use, the statements made about the method according to the invention apply mutatis mutantis.

QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Patent literature cited

• EP 2168633 B1 [0007]

Claims (19)

Process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent contains (a) at least one solvent and (b) at least one fluorine compound is applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time. Procedure according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy-silane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment. Procedure according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and by using at least one film-forming polymer. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent has at least one solvent (a) from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, 1-pentanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, glycerine, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N -Octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, propylene carbonate and N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide contains. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 4th , characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more solvents (a) in a total amount of 3 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably 6 to 55% by weight .-%, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 5 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 3 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35 Contains wt .-% and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20 wt .-% benzyl alcohol. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 6th , characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one fluorine compound (b) selected from the group consisting of tetrabutylammonium fluoride, sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, sodium monofluorophosphate, zinc fluoride, tin fluoride, sodium fluorosilicate, cetylamine hydrofluoride and bis (hydroxyethyl) aminopropyl-N-hydroxyethyl) aminopropyl-N-hydroxyethyl dihydrofluoride. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 7th , characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more fluorine compounds (b) in a total amount of 0.001 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 8th , characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from cationic surfactants of the general formula (T-1),

where RT1, RT2 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, RT3 is a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₇ -alkyl group, a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group, or a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group, RT4 is a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group and XT ″ stands for a physiologically acceptable anion. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 9 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group of C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal hydroxides , the alkali carbonates, the alkaline earth metal carbonates, the alkali hydrogen carbonates, the alkali metal phosphates and the alkaline earth metal phosphates. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 10 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains 5 to 70 wt.%, preferably 10 to 60 wt.%, more preferably 15 to 50 and very particularly preferably 20 to 40 wt.% water . Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 11 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent has a pH of 8.5 to 12.5, preferably 9.5 to 12.0, more preferably 9.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably 9.5 to 11 , 0 owns. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 12 , characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 10 to 50 minutes, more preferably 15 to 45 minutes and very particularly preferably 20 to 40 minutes. Method according to one of the Claims 1 to 13 , characterized in that - the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material, - the keratin material is combed, massaged, brushed or otherwise exposed to a mechanical force during the action of the decolorizing agent, and then - the decolorizing agent is rinsed off again. A method for dyeing and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a dye to the hair, the dye being one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products, and one or contains several pigments, (2) allowing the coloring agent to act on the hair, (3) rinsing the coloring agent from the hair, (4) applying an after-treatment agent to the hair, the after-treatment agent containing at least one film-forming polymer, (5) allowing the after-treatment agent to act the hair, (6) rinsing the aftertreatment agent from the hair, (7) applying a decolorizer, as in one of the Claims 1 to 12 on the hair, (8) allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair, and (9) rinsing the decolorizer out of the hair. A method for dyeing and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a pretreatment agent to the hair, the pretreatment agent containing one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products, (2 ) Allowing the pretreatment agent to act on the hair, (3) rinsing the pretreatment agent out of the hair, (4) applying a coloring agent to the hair, the coloring agent containing one or more pigments, (5) allowing the coloring agent to act on the hair, (6) rinsing the coloring agent out of the hair, (7) applying a decolorizing agent, as in one of the Claims 1 to 12 on the hair, (8) allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair, and (9) rinsing the decolorizer out of the hair. Procedure according to Claim 16 comprising (4) applying a colorant to the hair, the colorant containing one or more pigments and one or more film-forming polymers. Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring and decolorizing keratin material, comprising packaged separately from one another: a first container with an agent which contains one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products - a second container with an agent which contains at least one pigment, - a third container which contains a decolorizing agent, such as one of the Claims 1 to 12 has been defined, and - optionally a fourth container with an agent which contains at least one film-forming polymer. Use of a decolorizer as in one of the Claims 1 to 12 has been described for discoloring keratinous material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment.