DE102019000262B3 - Snap hook with friction element - Google Patents

Abstract

When climbing the lead, the belaying person experiences a jolt if the climber falls. With a light belaying person, this jerk carries certain risks. The aim of the invention is to limit this jerk. The energy of the falling climber is converted into friction in the carabiner more than in the conventional sense. A lower jerk is to be expected from the belayer. Special friction elements (e.g. 7), which are attached to a snap hook (1) at the point of the rope deflection (5), ensure the increased friction effect when the rope (6) is under tensile load.

Description

When climbing with express slings, the difference in weight between the belayer and the climber is very important in the event of a fall. The combination of heavy climber and light belayer leads to the belayer being pulled violently towards the first hook or wall in the event of a fall. Collision of belayers and climbers, loss of control of the belay device, injuries from crushing or the like can result from this.

State of the art:

Some methods can alleviate this problem. Specially developed ballast resistors are supposed to solve this problem. This device is hooked into the first safety hook of the climbing wall and the rope is passed through it. Inexperienced people have problems with the operation during ascent and descent. In addition, the devices sometimes hook when pulling or lowering the rope. Furthermore, you have to learn your climbing rhythm, as these devices require a certain amount of preparation and follow-up time to climb a route. The devices described have a weight of approx. 400g, which represents a high proportion of weight when climbing.

Conventional snap hooks that are used as part of an express sling when climbing, usually have a preferred place where the rope is deflected. The position described is usually directed downwards towards the ground if the climber moves properly. This case is assumed below. The location of the cable deflection in conventional snap hooks is smooth and essentially no thicker or thinner than the rest of the body of the snap hook. In addition, no noteworthy change in the contour compared to the base body of the snap hook can be seen in the cross section on the cable deflection.

The DE 10 2014 001 695 B3 shows no carabiner, but a device that is hooked into a carabiner. See paragraph 31 and 1 symbol 4th . If the rope brake is hooked into the carabiner, the rope can only be unthreaded and cannot be removed via a snap opening. This is a decision for climbing techniques.

In the US 2011/0 284 323 A1 it is again not a carabiner, but a belay device, which is usually operated on the ground by a belayer. It is not possible to reduce the fall energy.

The DE 10 2014 007 993 A1 shows a device which is stationary and is not suitable for mobile use on natural rocks. In addition, this device is for top rope, which does not allow lead climbing. The device is used to protect the carabiner in climbing halls with high traffic. An increased friction is not to be expected since the coefficient of friction is not increased. In addition, no higher flexing work of the rope is to be expected.

The EP 1 384 497 A1 shows a snap hook which has the opposite object as the present invention. This carabiner reduces the friction during rope deflection. A snap hook which increases the friction at the rope deflection is not known.

Object of the invention and solution:

The object of the invention is to allow a climbing rope team with a greater weight difference to climb safely and practically. The invention presented is based on classic climbing with express slings in lead climbing. To reduce the force when falling on the belayer, a snap hook with increased friction is used as part of the express sling. In one case, the rope rubs against the rope deflection of the snap hook, to which a friction element is attached. The energy of the fall is not transferred to the belayer as usual, but is increasingly converted into rubbing energy in the snap hook. As a result of this measure, the securing person is pulled less strongly against the wall or first hook.

The friction elements also support the flexing work between the snap hook and the rope, which also has a braking effect on the continuous rope. In the following, only the frictional effect is mentioned, including the flexing effect and other general braking effects of the snap hook on the rope.

Detailing and variants:

The friction effect of the snap hook depends on the design of the friction element, so that different variants of the friction effect are possible. Decisive for this is above all the contact surface between the rope and the friction element, the wrap angle of the rope and the friction element and the geometrical design of the friction element. The variants allow the climber to use a snap hook with the appropriate friction effect for the respective climbing situation.

• - der Länge
• - der Geschwindigkeit
• - der Beschleunigung
• - der Verzögerung
• - dem Anpressdruck
• - der zeitlichen Dauer
• - dem Umschlingungswinkel

des durchlaufenden Seils The energy absorption by the friction element on the snap hook is primarily dependent on:

• - the length
• - the speed
• - acceleration
• - the delay
• - the contact pressure
• - the duration
• - the wrap angle

of the rope running through

• - Kerben
• - Wellen
• - Dellen
• - Beulen
• - Spitzen
• - Zacken
• - Dreidimensionale Konturen
• - Verdickungen
• - Ausdünnungen
• - Aussparungen
• - Weitere Bauteile
• - Beschichtungen
• - Aufgeraute Flächen
• - Materialauftrag
• - Verjüngungen
• - Oder eine Kombination der vorstehend genannten Elemente

The following are considered as friction elements according to the invention:

• - nicks
• - Waves
• - dents
• - bumps
• - Sharpen
• - pips
• - Three-dimensional contours
• - thickening
• - thinning
• - recesses
• - Other components
• - coatings
• - Roughened surfaces
• - material order
• - rejuvenation
• - Or a combination of the above elements

The variants of the carabiner friction values can be marked with colors to provide visual assistance when choosing the right carabiner hook.

The friction element can be located anywhere in the rope deflection of the snap hook.

In one variant, depending on the direction of the rope, the snap hook can have a large frictional effect and, when the rope is reversed, a small frictional effect. In one embodiment, the geometry can resemble a barb.

The increased friction on the rope deflection of the snap hook can also be caused by a combination of materials. In this way, material can be applied to defined areas of the base body that has the desired coefficients of friction.

A special surface coating of the base body can also contribute to a desired coefficient of friction.

The increased friction can also be caused by at least one further component which is attached to the cable deflection.

A taper on the rope deflection of the snap hook can also cause a targeted increase in friction. When the rope is loaded, it is pressed into the taper and the flexing and rubbing effect is increased.

The snap hook with friction element can also have an eyelet with or without a closure and with or without an opening. The eyelet with opening can resemble a hook. These eyelets can be used to attach stationary (e.g. hooks in a climbing wall) or non-stationary securing material (e.g. standing slings) to the snap hook. The arrangement and dimensioning of the eyelet on the snap hook is free and can be twisted to the main body of the snap hook. The eyelet can lie inside as well as outside of the base body of the snap hook. The eyelet can be rotatably or rigidly arranged.

Figure list

In the drawings, some of the friction elements according to the invention are not marked in the hatching to the body of which they may belong. So it may be that a friction element is drawn filled out but consists of one and the same part as the base body.

The drawings are in part sectional drawings 1 shown, compared to drawing 1 Features of the snap hook are added.

• Zeichnung 1: Grundkörper eines konventionellen Karabinerhakens (1) mit Verschluss (2) ohne das erfindungsgemäße Reibelement mit glatter Oberfläche mit Bandschlinge als Teil einer Expressschlinge (3) und Seil im Querschnitt dargestellt (4), an der Stelle der Seilumlenkung (5). Das Seil wird dabei mit nahezu minimaler Reibung umgeleitet und die Energie des Sturzes wird nur gering in den Karabiner übertragen.
• Zeichnung 2: Konventioneller Karabinerhaken ohne erfindungsgemäßes Reibelement im Schnitt A-A mit glatter Oberfläche, mit großem Umschlingungswinkel des Seils und Karabinerhakens (6).
• Zeichnung 3: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement in der Ausführung einer dreidimensionalen Kontur (7) mit Seil und Bandschlinge als Teil einer Expressschlinge.
• Zeichnung 4: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt A-A in der Ausführung einer dreidimensionalen Kontur mit Seil mit kleiner Zugkraft und kleinem Umlenkungswinkel (8). Dabei wirkt kaum Kraft auf das Reibelement und das Durchziehen des Seils ist dementsprechend leicht zu bewerkstelligen.
• Zeichnung 5: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt A-A in der Ausführung einer dreidimensionalen Kontur mit Seil mit großer Zugkraft und großem Umlenkungswinkel (6).Dabei kann das Seil unter Zug die Bereiche ohne Reibelement füllen und so die Reib- und Walkwirkung erhöhen.
• Zeichnung 6: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt A-A in der Ausführung einer dreidimensionalen Kontur und verbreiteter Auflagefläche (9) mit Seil mit großer Zugkraft und großem Umlenkungswinkel. Dabei kann das Seil unter Zug die Bereiche ohne Reibelement füllen und so die Walk- und Reibwirkung erhöhen. Das Durchziehen des Seils ist nur mit erhöhtem Kraftaufwand möglich.
• Zeichnung 7: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelementim Schnitt A-A in der Ausführung mit weiterem Bauteil (10). Dabei kann das Bauteil eine spezielle Kontur aufweisen, welche die Reibung verstärkt. Zudem kann auch die Oberfläche speziell behandelt sein, sodass eine erhöhte Reibung von dem Bauteil ausgeht, als wie sie von dem reinen Grundkörper des Karabiners ausgehen würde. Auch mehrere Bauteile welche im Verbund eine erhöhte Reibwirkung an der Seilumlenkung hervorrufen sind denkbar. Das zusätzliche Bauteil kann auf Grund von Abnutzungserscheinungen austauschbar gestaltet sein.
• Zeichnung 8: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt A-A in der Ausführung mit aufgerauter Fläche (11).
• Zeichnung 9: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt A-A in der Ausführung mit zusätzlichem Material (12). Das Material kann z.B. ein elastisches Material sein, welches sich unter Belastung verformt und das Seil beim Durchlauf hemmt. Eine Ausführung mit Gummiummantelung ist dabei denkbar.
• Zeichnung 10: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt B-B in der Ausführung mit einer Kerbe (13) an der Seilumlenkung. Wobei die Kerbe den Grundkörper komplett oder nur zum Teil umschließen kann. Wird das Seil in die Kerbe eingepresst ist das Seil gezwungen sich zu verformen und dabei Energie an den Karabiner abzugeben. Besonderes Augenmerk ist dabei zu geben, dass die Kerbe nicht zu eng gestaltet ist, sodass ein Seildurchlauf unterbunden wird.
• Zeichnung 11: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement im Schnitt A-A mit Reibwirkung abhängig der Laufrichtung des Seils. Aus dem Zeichnungsbeispiel ist zu entnehmen, dass das Seil leichter im Uhrzeigersinn ablaufen kann als umgekehrt.
• Zeichnung 12: Karabinerhakenim Schnitt A-A mit einseitigem erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement.
• Zeichnung 13: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement in der Ausführungmit Verjüngung (14) an der Seilumlenkung. Dabei wird das Seil unter Belastung in die Verjüngung gedrückt und dabei gestaucht wodurch die Walkwirkung und Reibwirkung steigt.
• Zeichnung 14: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement und Öse ohne Verschluss und ohne Öffnung (15)
• Zeichnung 15: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement und Öse mit Verschluss (16)
• Zeichnung 16: Karabinerhaken mit erfindungsgemäßen Reibelement und Öse mit Öffnung (17)

The drawings in section AA are usually drawn with a wrap angle of approx. 180 °. With a small wrap angle of approx. 0 ° - 90 °, an ascent of the climber can be assumed. Larger wrap angles occur in the event of falls or abseiling, in which the friction element according to the invention absorbs the force of the descending climber. The friction element can be specially designed for the larger wrap angles mentioned (> 90 °).

• drawing 1 : Basic body of a conventional snap hook ( 1 ) with closure ( 2nd ) without the friction element according to the invention with a smooth surface with a sling as part of an express sling ( 3rd ) and rope shown in cross section ( 4th ), at the point of the rope deflection ( 5 ). The rope is redirected with almost minimal friction and the energy of the fall is only slightly transferred to the carabiner.
• drawing 2nd : Conventional snap hook without a friction element according to the invention in section AA with a smooth surface, with a large wrap angle of the rope and snap hook ( 6 ).
• drawing 3rd : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in the execution of a three-dimensional contour (7) with rope and sling as part of an express sling.
• drawing 4th : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA in the execution of a three-dimensional contour with rope with low tensile force and small deflection angle ( 8th ). There is hardly any force on the friction element and the pulling of the rope is accordingly easy to accomplish.
• drawing 5 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA in the execution of a three-dimensional contour with rope with great tensile force and large deflection angle ( 6 ). In this case, the rope under train can fill the spaces without friction element and thus increase the friction and Walk effect.
• drawing 6 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA in the execution of a three-dimensional contour and widespread contact surface ( 9 ) with a rope with great traction and a large deflection angle . The rope under tension can fill the areas without a friction element and thus increase the flexing and friction effect. Pulling the rope through is only possible with increased effort.
• drawing 7 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA in the version with another component ( 10th ). The component can have a special contour that increases the friction. In addition, the surface can also be specially treated, so that the component emits increased friction than would be the case with the pure base body of the carabiner. Several components which cause an increased friction effect on the rope deflection are also conceivable. The additional component can be designed to be interchangeable due to wear and tear.
• drawing 8th : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA in the version with a roughened surface ( 11 ).
• drawing 9 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA in the version with additional material ( 12 ). The material can be an elastic material, for example, which deforms under load and inhibits the rope during passage. A version with rubber sheathing is conceivable.
• drawing 10th : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section BB in the version with a notch ( 13 ) on the rope deflection. The notch can enclose the body completely or only partially. If the rope is pressed into the notch, the rope is forced to deform and release energy to the carabiner. Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the notch is not too narrow, so that a rope run is prevented.
• drawing 11 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in section AA with friction depending on the direction of the rope . From the drawing example it can be seen that the rope can run more easily clockwise than vice versa.
• drawing 12 : Snap hook in the cut AA with one-sided friction element according to the invention .
• drawing 13 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention in the version with taper ( 14 ) on the rope deflection. The rope is pressed into the taper under load and thereby compressed, which increases the flexing and friction effect.
• drawing 14 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention and eyelet without closure and without opening (15)
• drawing 15 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention and eyelet with closure (16)
• drawing 16 : Snap hook with friction element according to the invention and eyelet with opening ( 17th )

Claims (11)

A snap hook, characterized in that the snap hook (1) has a geometry for deflecting a rope (5), at least at the point of rope deflection the snap hook has at least one friction element which, when the rope is deflected under tensile load, has the friction effect between rope (4 ) and snap hook (1) increased. Subclaim: A snap hook after Claim 1 , characterized in that the friction element comprises a three-dimensional contour (7) . A snap hook after Claim 1 or Claim 2 , characterized in that the friction element comprises at least one additional component (10) which can be both rigid, interchangeable and movable. A snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the friction element comprises at least one additionally applied material (12). A snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the friction element is designed as a special surface treatment . A snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the friction element comprises a taper (14) of the cable deflection point. A snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the friction element is designed as a rough surface (11) . Snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the friction element increases the friction effect depending on the direction of the rope through the snap hook more or less. Snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the intensity of the friction effect on the snap hook is optically, in particular color-coded . Snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the friction element on the cable deflection can be one-sided . A snap hook according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the snap hook comprises at least one additional eyelet or without a closure as well as with or without an opening.

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