DE102016221737A1 - Cream for sensitive skin with aloe vera and the lowest possible content of preservatives - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of hydrodispersions (O / W systems) which contain not more than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers and are preferably completely free of emulsifiers containing one or more Aloe vera extracts and also containing 0.1-2.5, preferably 0.1-1.5, more preferably 0.1-1.0, most preferably 0.4-1.0 weight% of phenoxyethanol-2.5 , preferably 0.05-1.0, more preferably 0.1-0.5, most preferably 0.1-0.2% by weight of ethylhexylglycerol-free of other substances used as antimicrobially effective.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin and the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

In particular, the present invention relates to a cream for sensitive skin with aloe vera and the lowest possible content of preservatives.

Compared to normal skin, sensitive skin reacts much faster to external influences such as dry heating air, UV radiation or stress. Redness, itching, dryness or feelings of tension can be the result. A possible reason for this overreaction is a disturbed skin barrier: the skin's natural protective function is reduced, which makes the skin more sensitive to external stimuli.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated skin areas.

Obviously, the choice of the appropriate skin care product for sensitive skin is particularly important. The cosmetic should not additionally irritate or strain the skin. It is important that the raw materials used are particularly mild and compatible. Particular attention should be paid to the type and amount of preservatives used, as they often lead to intolerances and / or allergies. Specific active ingredients contained in the cream are intended to soothe and protect the skin, such as e.g. Vitamin E, aloe vera, panthenol, chamomile or bisabolol.

Skin care products usually consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases, and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. Viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and the oil droplets are finely dispersed in the water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, for example, milk). The basic character of the O / W emulsion is characterized by water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g., butter) is the reverse principle, with the basic character here being determined by the oil.

In emulsions, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents phase separation.

But also emulsifier-poor or emulsifier-free preparations based on so-called hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase.

In contrast to O / W emulsions, which are characterized by a similar phase arrangement, however, hydrodispersions are essentially free of emulsifiers. Hydrodispersions, as well as emulsions, are metastable systems and are prone to transition to a state of two contiguous discrete phases.

In the case of hydrodispersions consisting of a lipid phase in an external aqueous phase, the stability of such a system can be ensured, for example, by establishing a gel skeleton in the aqueous phase in which the lipid droplets are stably suspended.

Preservatives are antimicrobial substances which are added in the manufacturing process to a product (food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic or even chemical preparation) in small amounts (usually between about 0.0005% and 1% active content, depending on the product). Preservatives are intended to protect products during manufacture, storage and use from contamination by microorganisms, in particular from microbial adverse changes.

A preservative is generally subject to the following requirements: It must be sufficiently antimicrobial effective, technologically applicable and harmless to health. Of course, the finished preparation - the commercial product - health harmless. It is to take into account that microorganisms in z. As cosmetic products primarily due to production or secondary can pass through the consumer in the cosmetic products.

Accordingly, it must be ensured that the finished product is safe not only directly after its production, but also over the entire period of use and does not affect the user by negative side effects.

Most preservatives proposed or proposed for preservation have bacteriostatic and fungistatic, occasionally also bactericidal and fungicidal: they should be, as far as possible, odorless and tasteless and, in the doses used, soluble, non-toxic, skin-friendly and sufficiently effective. To be effective, the preservatives must be dissolved in the raw or auxiliary to be preserved. Although a sterility is generally not required for a cosmetic preparation, it must be free from pathogenic germs and be protected against microbial changes.

Preservatives approved in food technology are listed below with their E number. E 200 sorbic acid E 227 calcium bisulfite E 201 sodium sorbate E 228 potassium hydrogen sulfite) E 202 potassium sorbate E 230 Biphenyl (diphenyl) E 203 calcium sorbate E 231 orthophenylphenol E 210 benzoic acid E 232 sodium orthophenylphenolate E 211 sodium benzoate E 233 thiabendazole E 212 potassium benzoate E 235 natamycin E 213 calcium benzoate E 236 formic acid E 214 p-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester E 237 sodium E 215 p-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester sodium salt E 238 calcium E 216 p-hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester E 239 hexamethylenetetramine E 217 p-hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester sodium salt E 249 potassium nitrite E 218 p-hydroxybenzoate E 250 sodium nitrite E 219 p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester sodium salt E 251 sodium nitrate E 220 sulfur dioxide E 252 potassium nitrate E 221 sodium E 280 propionic E 222 Natriumyhdrogensulfit E 281 sodium propionate E 223 sodium metabisulfite E 282 calcium propionate E 224 called potassium E 283 Potassium E 226 calcium sulfite E 290 carbon dioxide

Further preservatives or preservatives common in cosmetics are dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2-propynyl-butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, Chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.

Advantageous preservatives are furthermore, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant ™ from Lonza, or imidazolidinyl urea), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company. Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preserving aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.

Despite this variety of possible preservatives, there are still cosmetic or dermatological preparations that are extremely difficult to preserve.

This can in some cases z. B. be because most preservatives are better fat than water-soluble, so that z. For example, in an emulsion whose aqueous phase is to be preserved, the preservative incorporated into the aqueous phase migrates in the course of storage in the fatty phase and thus the preservation of the aqueous phase is in question. Usually this problem is solved by using a combination of preservatives. So z. For example, the aqueous phase with a readily water-soluble preservative, the fat phase, however, are preserved simultaneously with a fat-soluble preservative.

It should further be noted that the most varied types of emulsions, aqueous solutions, suspensions, etc., need different levels of preservation, that the preservative effect of individual preservatives depends on the composition and physical properties of the preparation to be preserved, with interactions between the preservative, the active It is to be expected that various active substances or adjuvants (such as aloe vera) can adsorb preservatives and possibly inactivate them, that especially hydrocolloids contained in the preparation can hinder preservatives in their antimicrobial activity in a concentration-dependent manner the concentration and type of preservative - the stratum corneum adsorbs the preservative and the preservative may then penetrate the skin and absorb it could be.

Preservatives may cause skin irritation in people with chronic barrier damage (sensitive skin). In addition, consumers today pay much more attention to the fact that cosmetics contain as little as possible amounts of preservatives. The lowest possible dosage of the preservatives used is therefore desirable.

Aloe vera is one of the old and long-tested medicinal plants. Aloe vera gel should be effective on the outside for wounds, burns, skin irritation, radiation damage and atopic dermatitis.

In cosmetics, the moisturizing effect of aloe vera gel has long been used for skin care products. The problem is that aloe vera greatly affects the preservability of skin care products in general.

The object of the present invention was therefore to solve the problems of the prior art, to enrich the state of the art and to produce cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of Aloe vera extracts which have sufficient microbiological stability with the lowest possible content of preservatives.

• - welche maximal 0,5 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren Emulgatoren enthalten und vorzugsweise gänzlich frei von Emulgatoren sind,
• - mit einem Gehalt an einem oder mehreren Aloe-vera-Extrakten, sowie ferner enthaltend
• - 0,1 -2,5, bevorzugt 0,1 - 1,5, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 1,0, ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,4 - 1,0 Gew.-% an Phenoxyethanol
• - 0 - 2,5, bevorzugt 0,05 - 1,0, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 0,5, ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,1 bis 0,2 Gew.-% an Ethylhexylglycerin
• - frei von weiteren als antimikrobiell wirksam verwendeten Substanzen.

According to the invention, the above-described objects are achieved and the drawbacks of the prior art are eliminated by cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of hydrodispersions (O / W systems).

• which contain at most 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers and are preferably completely free of emulsifiers,
• Containing one or more Aloe vera extracts, and also containing
• - 0.1 -2.5, preferably 0.1 - 1.5, more preferably 0.1 - 1.0, most preferably 0.4 - 1.0 wt .-% of phenoxyethanol
• - 0 - 2.5, preferably 0.05 - 1.0, more preferably 0.1 - 0.5, most preferably 0.1 to 0.2 wt .-% of ethylhexylglycerol
• - Free from other substances used as antimicrobial effective.

Preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. Despite low concentrations of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol as well as the omission of further substances used as antimicrobially active substances, the preparations are stable against the infestation of microorganisms.

It was not foreseeable by those skilled in the art that hydrodispersions require a lower level of preservatives than O / W emulsions.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight, of one or more aloe vera extracts and / or derivatives thereof the total composition of the preparations.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z.B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, further natural oils such as castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower C-number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the hydrodispersions according to the invention can also be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostear, octyl dodecyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁ - R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2 - 200.000 annehmen.As linear silicones having several siloxy units which are advantageously used according to the invention, they are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2 - 200,000.

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁ - R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, dass ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

If desired, the aqueous phase of the hydrodispersions according to the invention advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or monoethyl ether and analogous products, also lower C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention particularly advantageously comprise one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Hydrogel preparations according to the invention contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be advantageously selected from the aforementioned group.

The gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. For the purposes of the present invention, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum can be selected from this group.

Further advantageous is the use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are, for example, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

Among the layered silicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as e.g. Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These may be used as such or in modified form as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorites.

Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels.

Among the polyacrylates are e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Particular preference is given to polyacrylates having the INCI name sodium polyacrylate, for example that available from BASF under the trade name Cosmedia SP.

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Advantageous according to the invention are those preparations which are characterized in that the weight ratios of lipid phase to water phase are selected from the ranges of 99: 1 to 1: 99, preferably 75: 25 to 25: 75, particularly preferably 10: 90 to 20 to 80.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The numbers refer to wt .-%, unless otherwise stated. INCI Cream 1 Cream 2 Cream 3 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 1 isopropyl palmitate 5.00 0 1.00 2 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 5.00 0 3 cetyl alcohol 0 2.50 8.00 4 Cetylstearylalkohol 5.00 1.50 0 5 cetyl palmitate 3.00 0 0.50 6 myristyl 1.00 8.00 0 7 behenyl 0 1.00 0 8th phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 9 octyldodecanol 1.50 5.00 0 10 dimethicone 0.50 0 5.00 11 glycerin 9.00 11.00 9.00 12 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20 0.20 0.15 13 Butyrospermum Parkii butter 0.50 10.00 3.50 14 Hydrogenated cocoglyceride 4.00 1.00 0 15 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.10 0.10 0.10 16 Aloe vera 0.02 0.02 0.02 17 sodium polyacrylate 0.80 0.80 0.75 18 Olus oil 0 0.50 8.00 19 Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 INCI Cream 4 Cream 5 Cream 6 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 1 isopropyl palmitate 9.00 2.00 2.50 2 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 0 8.00 1.00 3 cetyl alcohol 2.00 0 0.50 4 Cetylstearylalkohol 0 0 0.50 5 cetyl palmitate 8.00 10.00 2.00 6 myristyl 1.00 0 1.00 7 behenyl 1.00 5.00 1.00 8th phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 9 octyldodecanol 0 8.00 0.50 10 dimethicone 0.90 0.70 1.10 11 glycerin 9.00 11.00 15.00 12 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.25 0.20 0.15 13 Butyrospermum Parkii butter 2.50 3.00 0 14 Hydrogenated cocoglyceride 8.00 0.50 0 15 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.10 0.10 0.10 16 Aloe vera 0.02 0.02 0.02 17 sodium polyacrylate 0.85 0.80 0.75 18 Olus oil 2.00 2.50 3.00 19 Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25

Claims (6)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of hydrodispersions (O / W systems) which contain at most 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers and are preferably completely free of emulsifiers, Containing one or more Aloe vera extracts, and also containing - 0.1 -2.5, preferably 0.1 - 1.5, more preferably 0.1 - 1.0, most preferably 0.4 -1.0 wt .-% of phenoxyethanol - 0 - 2.5, preferably 0.05 - 1.0, more preferably 0.1 - 0.5, most preferably 0.1 to 0.2 wt .-% of ethylhexylglycerol - Free from other substances used as antimicrobial effective. Preparations according to Claim 1 , characterized by a content of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, of one or more aloe vera extracts, based on the total composition of the preparations. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipid phase is selected from the group consisting of the following substances: isopropyl palmitate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii butter, Olus oil. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratios of lipid phase to water phase are selected from the ranges of 99 to 1 to 1 to 99, preferably from 75: 25 to 25 to 75, particularly preferably from 10 to 90 to 20 80th Use of combinations of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol for the preservation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which are characterized by a content of one or more extracts of aloe vera. Use after Claim 5 , characterized in that the preparations in the form of hydrodispersions (O / W systems) are present, - which contain not more than 0.5 wt .-% of one or more emulsifiers and are preferably completely free of emulsifiers, - having a content of one or more aloe vera extracts, and also containing - 0.1 - 2.5, preferably 0.1 - 1.5, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.0, most preferably 0.4 -1.0 wt % of phenoxyethanol - 0 - 2.5, preferably 0.05 - 1.0, more preferably 0.1 - 0.5, most preferably 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of ethylhexylglycerol - free from other substances used as antimicrobial effective.