DE102015225974A1 - Creamy styling agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which are in the form of a cream and contain an aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer. In addition, the present invention relates to the use of these cosmetic compositions and a method for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers using these agents.

Description

The application relates to the technical field of temporary transformation keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair. The application relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of a cream containing at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and at least one further hair-fixing compound. In addition, the subject of the present application is a method for the temporary deformation of keratin fibers using the compositions of the invention and the use of these agents for improving the long-term content and hairstyle resistance.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered chic, which in many types of hair can only be built up using firming agents or maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents which serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. While the chemical structure of the keratin-containing fiber is modified by reduction and oxidation during permanent forming, such modifications of the chemical structure do not take place during the temporary forming. Corresponding temporary deformation agents usually contain synthetic polymers and / or waxes as the setting agent.

The most important property of a temporary deformation agent for keratinous fibers, hereinafter also referred to as a styling agent, is that of treating the treated fibers in the reshaped form - i. a form imprinted on the fibers - to give as strong a hold as possible. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also called a strong hairstyle or a high degree of hold of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of setting active ingredients used, but also an influence of the other components of the styling agent and the application form may be given.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g. of the sprayed aerosol or non-aerosol, and properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, the properties of the hair being of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable for all hair types and mild to hair and skin.

In order to meet the different requirements, the prior art has developed a large number of synthetic polymers as setting active substances which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle a strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it leads to the formation of so-called film splints or residues, which detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would have dandruff.

Although the polymer films obtainable with the synthetic polymers and polymer combinations known in the prior art have a satisfactory hold, this achieved hairstyle hold is greatly reduced in a moist environment. However, this deteriorated hold in a humid environment does not meet the consumer need for a consistently high long-term maintenance regardless of the external weather conditions. There is therefore a need to improve the moisture resistance of polymer films obtainable by means of polymers and polymer combinations, without, however, having a negative influence on the other abovementioned properties of cosmetic agents, in particular styling agents

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide novel polymers which, in addition to high long-term stability, high flexibility and low tackiness, also have outstanding moisture resistance-in particular perspiration and water resistance. Furthermore, these polymers should enable the formulation of storage-stable cosmetic agents for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers.

It has now surprisingly been found that the use of an aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer leads to styling agents which have a high hold and good Flexibility with excellent moisture resistance. The low stickiness of the cosmetic products required for a pleasant product feel was not adversely affected by the aqueous dispersion. Furthermore, storage-stable cosmetic agents can be formulated using this dispersion.

• a) mindestens eine wässrigen Dispersion mindestens eines Peptid-haltigen Polyurethanpolymers und
• b) mindestens eine haarfestigende Verbindung, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Wachsen, filmbildenden anionischen Polymeren, filmbildenden nichtionischen Polymeren sowie deren Mischungen.

A first subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• a) at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and
• b) at least one hair-setting compound selected from the group of waxes, film-forming anionic polymers, film-forming nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof.

By using an aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-functionalized polyurethane polymer, improved moisture resistance of the hairstyles achieved with the cosmetic agents is achieved. The agents according to the invention therefore ensure a permanent and consistently high hairstyle hold even with changing external environmental influences. Furthermore, the use of the abovementioned dispersion does not lead to a negative influence on the further product properties, such as, for example, the stickiness of the products. In addition, this polymer combination also has no negative effects on the viscosity and the storage stability of the cosmetic products.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

The term "polyurethane polymer" in the context of the present invention means polymers in which the respective monomer units are linked by urethane groups of the general formula -NH-CO-O-. Polyurethane polymers used according to the invention are preferably obtained by polyaddition from dihydric or higher alcohols with diisocyanates and / or triisocyanates.

Furthermore, the term "peptide-containing polyurethane polymers" polyurethane polymers are to be understood which contain at least one covalently bound to the polyurethane polymer peptide. The covalent binding of the peptide to the polyurethane polymer can be effected by reaction of at least one nucleophilic group of the at least one peptide with at least one free NCO group of the polyisocyanate and / or the polyurethane polymer. Nucleophilic groups within the peptide are, for example, the N-terminus with a free NH ₂ group and the C-terminus with a free carboxylic acid or carboxylate group. Furthermore, the following side chains of the amino acids of the peptide are nucleophiles which can react with the NCO group: hydroxyl groups (serine, threonine, tyrosine), thiol groups (cysteine), carboxylic acid groups (aspartic acid, glutamic acid), amino groups (lysine), guanidine group ( Arginine), carbamoyl groups (asparagine, glutamine) and imidazole groups (histidine). Preferably, the at least one peptide is covalently bound via an amino and / or hydroxyl group to the polyurethane polymer.

In addition, according to the invention, the term "peptide" is to be understood as meaning polymers of at least 2 amino acids, which are linked to one another via a peptide bond. The number of amino acids in the proteins is preferably at least 2 and at most 1,000 amino acids. According to the invention, the term "peptide" also means hydrolysates of a peptide which contain protein fractions having different amino acid sequences and molecular weights. The peptides are preferably composed of the 23 proteinogenic amino acids which are also present in naturally occurring proteins. These amino acids include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, cysteine, methionine, proline, serine, threonine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, asparagine, glutamine, lysine, arginine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan, pyrrolysine and selenocysteine.

In the context of the present invention, the term "aqueous dispersions" is understood to mean multiphase compositions which comprise a continuously aqueous phase and a phase of a peptide-containing polyurethane polymer finely distributed in this aqueous phase.

By "hair-fixing compounds" are meant according to the invention compounds which, after application to the keratinic fibers, lead to a more durable hairstyle or result in a higher hairstyle hold.

In addition, film-forming or setting polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Under Film-forming polymers are also understood as meaning those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are able to deposit a transparent polymer film on the hair. Film-forming anionic polymers have at least one carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, wherein the anionic groups are completely or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. In contrast, film-forming nonionic polymers in a protic solvent at standard conditions contain essentially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups, which must be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality.

In the context of the present invention, the term "waxes" are to be understood as substances which are kneadable at 20 ° C. or solid to brittle, have a coarse to finely crystalline structure and are translucent to opaque in color but not glassy. Furthermore, these substances melt above 25 ° C without decomposition, are slightly above the melting point slightly liquid (less viscous), have a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility and are polishable under light pressure. Waxes differ from similar synthetic or natural products (eg, resins, plastic masses, metal soaps, etc.) in that they go from 40 ° C to 90 ° C in the molten, low-viscosity state.

In addition, the term "fatty acid" as used in the context of the present invention means aliphatic carboxylic acids which have unbranched or branched carbon radicals having 4 to 40 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used in the present invention may be both naturally occurring and synthetically produced fatty acids. Furthermore, the fatty acids may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Finally, the term "fatty alcohol" in the context of the present invention means aliphatic, monohydric, primary alcohols which have unbranched or branched hydrocarbon radicals having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols used in the invention may also be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

The statement wt .-% refers in the present case, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions of the invention.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

The cosmetic carrier is particularly preferably an alcoholic carrier which contains at least one alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The alcoholic carrier in this case preferably has a total amount of the at least one alcohol - based on the total weight of the cosmetic carrier - of at least 50 wt .-%. Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions therefore have an alcohol content of from 50 to 95% by weight, in particular from 60 to 90% by weight, based on their total weight.

Alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular the alcohols commonly used for cosmetic purposes such as ethanol and / or isopropanol can be used. It may be preferred according to the invention, if further at least one compound from the group of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerol, n-butanol, 1,3-butylene glycol is included in the alcoholic cosmetic carrier.

As the first essential constituent a), the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-functionalized polyurethane polymer.

The peptide-containing polyurethane polymer used according to the invention is preferably obtained by reacting an NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer with at least one peptide. For this purpose, the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer used has at least one free NCO group, preferably in the main chain of the prepolymer. Preferred embodiments of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer in the form of a reaction product of (i) at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer and (ii) at least one peptide. As stated above, at least one nucleophilic group of the peptide, preferably an amino and / or hydroxyl group, reacts with at least a free NCO group of the polyurethane prepolymer to form at least one covalent bond. The functionalization of the polyurethane polymer with peptides on the one hand achieves high stability of the polyurethane polymer in the aqueous dispersion. Furthermore, this functionalization leads to good adhesion of these polymers on the hair, since the peptides bound to the polyurethane polymers can interact with the peptides of the hair keratin. In this way, especially the moisture resistance and the long-term hold of the hairstyle can be significantly improved.

worin
a für ganze Zahlen von 50 bis 200, insbesondere von 100 bis 150, steht,
n und m, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 4 bis 12, insbesondere von 5 bis 10, stehen, b und c, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 15, insbesondere von 3 bis 15, stehen;
p und q, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 4, insbesondere von 1 bis 3, stehen, R₁ und R₃, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, stehen und R₂ für eine cyclische Gruppe mit 5 bis 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere eine aromatische cyclische Gruppe mit 5 bis 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, steht,
enthält. To prepare the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer, at least one polyol is reacted with a molar excess, based on the OH groups of the polyol, of at least one polyisocyanate. Polyols are understood here to mean compounds which have at least two OH groups in the molecule. In addition, polyisocyanates are compounds which have at least two NCO groups per molecule. By using an excess of polyisocyanate, it is ensured that the resulting polyurethane prepolymer is terminated with at least one free NCO group. It is therefore preferred in this context if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) comprises at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (II) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (III)

wherein
a represents integers from 50 to 200, in particular from 100 to 150,
n and m, each independently, are integers from 4 to 12, especially from 5 to 10, b, and c, each independently, are integers from 1 to 15, especially from 3 to 15;
p and q, each independently of one another, are integers from 1 to 4, in particular from 1 to 3, R ₁ and R ₃ , each independently of one another, are a linear C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl group, and R _{2 is} a cyclic group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular an aromatic cyclic group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms,
contains.

According to the above formulas and all the following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol "*" stands for a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment. Here, free valence is to be understood as meaning the number of atomic bonds which originate from the corresponding structural fragment at the position indicated by the symbol "*". In the context of the present invention, in each case an atomic bond preferably proceeds from the positions of the structural fragments marked with the symbol "*" to form further structural fragments. According to the invention, polyester compounds are compounds which contain at least two ester bonds and can be obtained, for example, by reacting an excess of a polyhydric alcohol with a carboxylic acid. Isocyanate compounds are compounds which contain at least one free isocyanate group.

worin
a für ganze Zahlen von 110 bis 135 steht und
b und c, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 3 bis 15 stehen, enthält. Furthermore, in the context of the present invention, it may be preferred in this context if the polyurethane prepolymer contains certain polyester compounds of the formulas (II) and (III). It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) comprises at least one polyester compound of the formula (IIa) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (IIIa)

wherein
a stands for integers from 110 to 135 and
b and c, each independently, are integers from 3 to 15.

It has proved to be advantageous in the context of the present invention if the polyester compounds of the formulas (I) and (II) or (Ia) and (IIa) have certain number-average molar masses M _n . The number average molecular weight M _n is determined by determining the OH number according to DIN 53240-2 (November 2007) determined. It is therefore preferred in this connection if the polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular of the formula (IIa), has a number-average molecular weight M _{n of} from 1,000 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 5,500 g / mol, preferably from 3,000 to 5,000 g / mol, in particular from 3,500 to 4,000 g / mol.

It is likewise preferred if the polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular of the formula (IIIa), has a number-average molecular weight M _n of 500 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably of 1,000 to 4,500 g / mol, preferably of 2,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular from 2,500 to 3,000 g / mol.

In addition, it may be preferred in the context of the present invention, when the isocyanate compound of the formula (I) and the polyester compounds of the formulas (II) and (III), in particular of the formulas (IIa) and (IIIa), in certain proportions by weight in the polyurethane prepolymer (i) are included. Preferred embodiments of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 2.0 to 30 wt. %, preferably from 5.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 12 to 18 wt .-%, contains.

In the context of the present invention, it is further preferred if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) contains at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular of the formula (IIa) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 25 to 55 wt .-%, preferably from 30 to 50 wt .-%, preferably from 35 to 45 wt .-%, in particular from 37 to 43 wt .-%, contains.

In addition, in the context of the present invention, it is preferred if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) contains at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular of the formula (IIIa) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 15 to 50 wt .-%, preferably from 20 to 45 wt .-%, preferably from 25 to 40 wt .-%, in particular from 30 to 35 wt .-%, contains.

The use of the aforementioned amounts of the isocyanate compound of the formula (I) and the polyester compounds of the formulas (II) and (III), in particular of the formulas (IIa) and (IIIa), leads to a high stability of the peptide-containing polyurethane polymers in the aqueous Dispersion, so that the cosmetic products have a high storage stability.

In addition, it has proved to be advantageous if the polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a specific weight ratio of the isocyanate compound of the formula (I) to the polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), and the polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular ( IIIa). Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention are therefore characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a weight ratio of the at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) to the at least one polyester compound of the formula (II) in particular (IIa), and the at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular (IIIa), of 1: 5: 5 to 2: 1: 1, preferably of 1: 4: 4 to 1: 1: 1, in particular of 1: 4: 4 to 1: 3: 3.

worin
R₄ und R₅, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, stehen,
d und e, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für die ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 6, insbesondere von 1 bis 4, stehen und
X⁺ für ein physiologisch verträgliches Kation, insbesondere Natrium, steht,
enthält. Der zusätzliche Einsatz der ionischen Polyetherverbindung der Formel (IV) hat sich in Bezug auf die Stabilisierung des Polyurethanprepolymers (i) während der Dispergierung in der wässrigen Phase als vorteilhaft erwiesen. In addition, it has proved to be advantageous in the context of the present invention, when the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) in addition to the aforementioned polyester compounds of the formulas (II) and (III) or (IIa) and (IIIa) at least one ionic Containing polyether compound of the formula (IV). In this context, ionic polyether compounds are compounds which have at least two ether bonds and at least one group with a cationic or anionic charge, preferably an anionic charge. Particularly preferred ionic polyether compounds are anionic polyether compounds which contain at least one sulfonate group -SO ₃ ^- . It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) additionally comprises at least one ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV)

wherein
R ₄ and R ₅ , each independently of one another, are a linear C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ -alkyl group,
d and e, each independently, are the integers from 1 to 6, especially from 1 to 4, and
X ^{+ is} a physiologically acceptable cation, in particular sodium,
contains. The additional use of the ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV) has proven to be advantageous with respect to the stabilization of the polyurethane prepolymer (i) during the dispersion in the aqueous phase.

In this connection, it is preferred according to the invention if the at least one polyether compound of the formula (IV) is present in a specific total amount in the at least one polyurethane prepolymer (i). Preferred embodiments are therefore characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) contains the at least one ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 1.0 to 12% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, especially from 2.0 to 5.0% by weight.

In addition, it may be preferred in this context if the polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a specific weight ratio of the polyester compounds of the formulas (II) and (III), in particular of the formulas (IIa) and (IIIa), and of the polyether compound of the formula (IV) , It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a weight ratio of the at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), to the at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular (IIIa) , and the at least one ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV) from 1:20:20 to 1: 8: 8, preferably from 1:16:16 to 1:11:11, in particular from 1:15:15 to 1:13 : 13.

worin
R₇ für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, steht
R₈ und R₉, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für Wasserstoff oder eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für Wasserstoff oder eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, stehen, wobei mindestens einer der Reste R₈ oder R₉ für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, steht,
f, für ganze Zahlen von 10 bis 60, insbesondere von 30 bis 40, steht,
g für ganze Zahlen von 2 bis 15, insbesondere von 4 bis 8, steht,
h und j, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 10, insbesondere von 2 bis 6, stehen und
i für ganze Zahlen von 10 bis 50, insbesondere von 25 bis 35, steht,
enthält. Durch den zusätzlichen Einsatz der zuvor angeführten nichtionischen Polyetherverbindungen der Formeln (V) und (VI) kann das Polyurethanprepolymer (i) weitergehend stabilisiert werden. Die nichtionische Polyetherverbindung der Formel (V) ist bevorzugt ein statistisches Copolymer, wohingegen die nichtionische Polyetherverbindung der Formel (VI) bevorzugt ein Block-Copolymer ist. The at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) may additionally contain at least one nonionic polyether compound. Nonionic polyether compounds contain no charged and cationizable and anionizable groups. Preferred nonionic polyether compounds are, for example, homopolymers or copolymers of polyalkylene glycol, preferably homo- and copolymers of ethylene glycol and / or propylene glycol, homo- and copolymers of polytetramethylene glycol or block copolymers of polypropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are therefore characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) additionally comprises at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) and / or (VI), in particular of the formulas (V) and (VI)

wherein
R ₇ represents a linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl group,
R ₈ and R ₉ , each independently of one another, are hydrogen or a linear C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, in particular hydrogen or a linear C ₁ -C ₂ -alkyl group, where at least one of the radicals R ₈ or R _{9 is} a linear C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group,
f, stands for integers from 10 to 60, in particular from 30 to 40,
g represents integers from 2 to 15, in particular from 4 to 8,
h and j, each independently of one another, are integers from 1 to 10, in particular from 2 to 6, and
i stands for integers from 10 to 50, in particular from 25 to 35,
contains. The additional use of the above-mentioned nonionic polyether compounds of the formulas (V) and (VI), the polyurethane prepolymer (i) can be further stabilized. The nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) is preferably a random copolymer, whereas the nonionic polyether compound of the formula (VI) is preferably a block copolymer.

In this connection, it is preferred according to the invention if the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) is present in a specific total amount in the at least one polyurethane prepolymer (i). Preferred embodiments are therefore characterized in that the at least one NCO group-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 1.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 2.0 to 12 wt .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, contains.

Furthermore, it is preferred in this context if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) contains the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (VI) in a total amount of from 1.5 to 15% by weight, based on its total weight. preferably from 2.0 to 12% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 6.0% by weight.

In addition, it may be preferred in this context if the polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a specific weight ratio of the polyester compounds of the formulas (II) and (III), in particular of the formulas (IIa) and (IIIa), to the nonionic polyether compounds of the formulas (V) and (VI). It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a weight ratio of the at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), to the at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular (IIIa) containing at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) and the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (VI) of 20: 20: 1: 1 to 6: 2: 1: 1, preferably 15: 15: 1: 1 to 7 : 4: 1: 1, especially from 12: 10: 1: 1 to 8: 5: 1: 1.

The polyurethane prepolymer (i) may also contain low molecular weight diol and / or diamine compounds as chain extenders. The use of diol compounds has proven to be advantageous. Preferred embodiments are therefore characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) additionally comprises at least one diol compound selected from the group of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, especially neopentyl glycol.

In this connection it is preferred if the at least one diol compound, in particular the neopentyl glycol, is present in a certain total amount in the polyurethane prepolymer (i). It is therefore preferred if the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) contains the at least one diol compound, in particular neopentyl glycol, based on its total weight, in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 1.5 wt .-%, contains.

The NCO group-terminated polyurethane prepolymers (i) can be obtained by blending the polyester polyols corresponding to the formulas (II) and (III), in particular the formulas (IIa) and (IIIa), optionally the formulas (IV) to (VI) Polyester and polyether polyols and optionally the diol compound with the isocyanate compound of the formula (I) corresponding polyisocyanate and addition of a catalyst are prepared at elevated temperatures. The mixture of the polyesterpolyols, and optionally further polyester and polyetherpolyols and diols, is preferably heated to temperatures of from 70 to 95.degree. C., in particular 75.degree. C., in order to melt the polyols. It may also be preferred to stir the molten polyols under vacuum to dry the polyol mixture. The addition of the at least one polyisocyanate is preferably carried out at temperatures of 50 to 65 ° C, especially 60 ° C. The formation of the polyurethane prepolymer is preferably carried out at temperatures of 70 to 95 ° C, in particular at 80 ° C, for a period of 1 to 24 hours. In order to accelerate the formation of the polyurethane prepolymer, it may be preferred if at least one catalyst is added to the mixture of the above-mentioned polyols and the at least one polyisocyanate. Suitable catalysts are for example tin, bismuth or zinc-based. A particularly preferably used catalyst is dimethyldineodecanoacetin, which is commercially available under the trade name Fomrez UL28 from Momentive Performance Materials GmbH (Germany). Furthermore, the use of bismuth neodecanot and tin neodecanoate, which are commercially available under the trade names BorchiKat 315 and BorchiKat 0716 from OMG Borchers GmbH (Germany).

The formation of the polyurethane prepolymer is interrupted when the content of free isocyanate groups reaches the calculated value. The content of free isocyanate groups, for example, by standard titration with dibutylamine according to EN ISO 11909: 2007-05 be determined. Preferred levels of free isocyanate in the polyurethane prepolymer are from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, especially 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total amount of polyols and polyisocyanates.

As described above, the polyisocyanate is used in a concentration which is higher than the stoichiometrically required concentration for complete reaction of the polyisocyanate with all available OH groups of the polyols. Preferably, the amount of polyisocyanate is from 20 to 150% of the stoichiometric amount required for complete reaction with all of the OH groups of the at least one polyol, especially the mixture of the aforementioned polyols.

As soon as the content of free isocyanate groups reaches the previously defined preferred value, it is preferable to lower the temperature to 60 ° C. and to dissolve the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) formed in a suitable organic solvent, for example ethyl acetate or acetone.

It has proved to be advantageous in the context of the present invention if the at least one polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a certain number-average molar mass. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are therefore characterized in that the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a number-average molecular weight M _{n of} from 1,500 to 25,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 15,000 g / mol, in particular from 3,000 to 15,000 g / mol , having. The number-average molar mass M _n is determined by determining the isocyanate content according to Spiegelberger EN ISO 11909: 2007-05 determined.

As already stated above, it is advantageous according to the invention if the at least one polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a certain content of free isocyanate groups for the reaction with the at least one peptide. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention, when the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) a weight fraction of free isocyanate groups, especially isocyanate compounds of the formula (I) - based on the total weight of the polyurethane prepolymer - from 0.2 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 2.0 wt .-%, having. The use of polyurethane prepolymers with the abovementioned proportions by weight of free isocyanate groups ensures high functionalization of the polyurethane prepolymer with the at least one peptide and thus high adhesion of the peptide-containing polyurethane polymers to keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

Preferred polyurethane prepolymers of the present invention have crystalline segments and therefore have a crystallinity of at least 20%, preferably at least 35%, especially at least 50%. The crystallinity can be determined, for example, by means of differential scanning calorimetry (also referred to as dynamic scanning calorimetry or DSC) according to ISO 11357-3 (2013) be determined at a heating rate of 10 K / min. For this purpose, the polyurethane prepolymers are preferably reacted with a suitable reagent, for example dibutylamine. Since the crystallinity depends on the temperature history of the corresponding polymer, it is preferred according to the invention, the polyurethane prepolymers for at least 24 hours, in particular for at least one week, at a temperature of 5 Kelvin below its melting point (determined by DSC according to ISO 11357-3 ) to store.

When the polyurethane prepolymer (i) contains ionic groups, it may be preferable in the present invention to neutralize these groups. This is particularly preferred if further polyol compounds with ionic groups are used in the preparation of the at least one polyurethane prepolymer. Suitable neutralizing agents are, for example, triethylamine.

The peptide-containing polyurethane polymer is obtained by reacting the polyurethane prepolymer with at least one peptide. According to the invention, the peptide used for the reaction preferably contains a certain number of amino acids. It is therefore preferred within the scope of the present invention if the at least one peptide has 5 to 1,000, preferably 6 to 9, preferably 6 to 800, in particular 12 to 600, amino acids. The use of such peptides has proven to be particularly advantageous with respect to the adhesion of these peptides to keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, so that a high degree of hold and good long-term hold can be achieved.

Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of the invention if the at least one peptide has a specific average molecular weight M _w . Preferred embodiments are therefore characterized in that the at least one peptide has an average molecular weight M _{w of} from 1,000 to 100,000 Da, preferably from 10,000 to 100,000 Da, preferably from 30,000 to 80,000 Da, in particular from 40,000 to 50,000 Da. The average molecular weight M w of the at least one peptide can be determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) ( Andrews P .; "Estimation of the Molecular Weights of Proteins by Sephadex Gel Filtration"; Biochem. J., 1964, 91, pages 222 to 233 ).

In addition, it is preferred according to the invention if the at least one peptide has a specific isoelectric point (also referred to below as IP). If, as the peptide, a peptide mixture, i. a mixture of several different peptides is used, so at least one peptide contained in the mixture must have an isoelectric point, which is indicated in the following areas. In the case of a mixture of peptides, all isoelectric points of the peptides contained in the mixture are preferably in the ranges indicated below. It is therefore advantageous in the context of the present invention for the at least one peptide to have an isoelectric point of from 2.5 to 6.9, preferably from 3.0 to 6.5, preferably from 3.5 to 6.0, in particular from 4 , 0 to 5.5. The isoelectric point is determined by isoelectric focusing (IEF). Here, the proteins are separated depending on their isoelectric point in a gel matrix, for example a polyacrylamide or agarose gel, using an electric field. By using marker proteins with defined isoelectric points, the isoelectric point (s) of the particular peptide or peptides in the peptide mixture can be determined.

More preferably, the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer contains peptides obtainable by hydrolysis of naturally occurring proteins, hereinafter referred to as protein hydrolysates. The term "hydrolyzed proteins" or "protein hydrolysates" are to be understood according to the invention as proteins which are prepared by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. For enzymatic degradation all hydrolytic enzymes are suitable, such as alkaline proteases. Mixtures of individual amino acids which are obtained merely by mixing the pure substances of the amino acids, as well as total hydrolysates which consist only of individual amino acids, do not fall within the scope of the present invention under the term "hydrolyzed proteins" or "protein hydrolysates". Vegetable proteins, for example from cereals and soya, and animal proteins, for example from wool, hair, skin, nails, horns, hooves and milk, can be used as naturally occurring proteins. Preferably, insoluble fiber proteins, for example keratins and collagens, which occur in hair, nails, skin and connective tissue are used. Particularly preferred embodiments of this subject matter of the invention are therefore characterized in that the at least one peptide is a protein hydrolyzate, in particular a protein hydrolyzate of wool. Polyurethane polymers which are functionalized with protein hydrolysates of wool have a particularly good adhesion to keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, and in this way ensure a high long-term stability and a good moisture resistance of the hairstyle obtained with the cosmetic agents according to the invention.

It has proved to be advantageous in the context of the present invention if the peptide-containing polyurethane polymers contain a certain amount of peptide. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are therefore characterized in that the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer contains the at least one peptide, in particular the protein hydrolyzate of wool, based on the total weight of the polyurethane polymer, in a total amount of 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.4 to 2.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 1.6 wt .-%, contains. The use of peptide-containing polyurethane polymers having the abovementioned peptide contents ensures a high adhesion of these polymers to the keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, and thus ensures a high hold and excellent moisture resistance of the hairstyle obtained with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The amount of peptide of the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer is determined by comparing the amount of peptide used when preparing the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer with the Amount of unbound peptide can be determined. For this purpose, the peptides, which are not covalently bound to the polyurethane polymers, separated by dialysis and determined their amount by means of a BCA assay. This assay relies on a biuret reaction between the at least one peptide with basic Cu ²⁺ to form a purple complex. The color intensity of the complex increases in proportion to the concentration of the at least one peptide. The quantitation of the amount of unbound peptide can be determined using standard concentrations by measuring the relative fluorescence intensity at 590 nm.

The peptide-containing polyurethane polymer can be achieved, for example, by dispersing the polyurethane prepolymer in a continuous aqueous phase containing the at least one peptide. In order to achieve the abovementioned amounts of peptide, it is preferred if the aqueous phase contains the at least one peptide, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, in a total amount of from 4.0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 6.0 to 15 Wt .-%, preferably from 7.0 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 8.0 to 9.0 wt .-%, contains. The continuous phase preferably contains at least 50% by volume, preferably at least 80% by volume, preferably at least 90% by volume, particularly preferably 100% by volume, based on the total volume of the continuous phase, of water as the solvent. In this aqueous continuous phase, further substances such as salts and buffers may be included. The dispersion can be carried out with vigorous stirring. Preferably, the prepolymer is used as a solution in an organic solvent and then dispersed in water. The dispersion is advantageously carried out at a temperature of 20 to 60 ° C, in particular at 40 ° C. It is within the scope of the present invention possible to achieve the dispersion by mechanical stirring or by the use of dispersing machines, such as high-pressure homogenizers, microfluidizers or rotor-stator dispersion machines. Particularly preferably, the dissolved polyurethane prepolymer is dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, in particular water, and the predispersion formed is homogenized to form a stable dispersion. The term "dispersion" according to the invention oil-in-water dispersions or (O / W) to be understood dispersions in which water forms the continuous phase in which the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer is dispersed. The homogenization of the predispersion can be effected by shear forces, for example by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. The homogenizer preferably has an energy input of 10 ³ to 10 ⁵ J per second per liter of the dispersion. Preferably, shear rates of at least 1,000,000 per second are used. The organic solvent used to solubilize the polyurethane prepolymer, for example ethyl acetate, can be removed after preparation of the stable dispersion, for example by using a rotary evaporator.

It has been found to be advantageous according to the invention if the aqueous dispersion of the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer has a specific average particle size D ₅₀ . It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention for the aqueous dispersion to have an average particle size D _{50 of} from 50 to 500 nm, in particular from 100 to 400 nm. The mean particle size D _{50 of} the aqueous dispersion is determined by means of laser diffraction (LD).

The aqueous dispersion preferably has a certain content of peptide-functionalized polyurethane polymer. Preferred embodiments according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous dispersion has a solids content, based on the total weight of the dispersion, of from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 15 to 65% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight. , in particular from 30 to 50 wt .-%, having. The use of aqueous dispersions having the above-mentioned solids contents of the at least one peptide-functionalized polyurethane polymer leads to a particularly high long-term stability and a good moisture resistance of the hairstyle produced with the inventive compositions.

In addition to the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer, the aqueous dispersion preferably contains no further polymers and unbound peptides. According to the invention, the term "unbound peptides" is to be understood as meaning peptides which are not covalently bound to the polyurethane polymer, in particular by reaction of a nucleophilic group of the at least one peptide with the free NCO group of the at least one polyurethane prepolymer. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the aqueous dispersion contains no unbound peptide (s). Unbound peptides can be removed, for example, by dialysis of the aqueous dispersion. The dialysis membrane used depends on the molecular weight of the at least one peptide used. Dialysis membranes preferred according to the invention have a molecular weight cut-off (also referred to as MWCO) of 100 kDa. The dialysis is advantageously carried out against distilled water

In addition, it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the aqueous dispersion contains no additional emulsifiers or surfactants. The term "surfactant" are according to the invention amphiphilic (Bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic part of the molecule to understand. The hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain of 8 to 28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Particularly preferably, this C ₈ -C ₂₈ -alkyl chain is linear. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous dispersion contains no additional emulsifiers selected from the group of anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric emulsifiers and mixtures thereof. Examples of such anionic surfactants are for example alkyl (ether) sulfates with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 or 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -Alkylethercarbonxylate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - Acyl sarcosinates and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyltaurines. Examples of nonionic surfactants are C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -alkyl polyglucosides, sorbitan esters and Sorbitanetherester, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -Carbonsäuremonoethanolamide, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alcohol ethoxylates containing 2 to 40 mol ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide per mole of alcohol, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -amine oxides and Glycerylcocoate with 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide per mole of glyceryl cocoate. Examples of cationic emulsifiers are quaternized carboxylic acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized salts of carboxylic acids with diethanolalkylamines, quaternized salts of carboxylic acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines, quaternium-92 and C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ -alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides. Examples of such amphoteric surfactants are C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -alkylbetaines, C _8-12 -alkylamido (C _1-4 ) -alkylbetaines, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -alkylsulfobetaines, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -alkylamphoacetates and -amphodiacetates and C ₁₀ C ₁₈ alkyl amphopropionates and dipropionates.

The cosmetic agent contains the at least one aqueous dispersion of the at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer, preferably in specific quantitative ranges. It is therefore within the scope of the present invention advantageous if the cosmetic agent - based on its total weight - 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1.0 to 9.5 wt .-%, preferably 2.0 to 9, 0 wt .-%, in particular 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer. The use of the abovementioned amounts of the at least one aqueous dispersion of the at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer in the cosmetic styling agents according to the invention leads to excellent long-term stability and good moisture resistance of the hairstyle produced by these means. In addition, these amounts do not lead to a negative interaction with other ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention, so that a high storage stability results.

As second essential ingredient b), the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one hair-setting compound selected from the group of waxes, anionic film-forming polymers, nonionic film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof.

As hair-fixing compound, the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one wax. In this case, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably present as a styling cream. According to the invention, waxes which have a melting point in the range from 50 ° C. to 85 ° C., in particular from 60 ° C. to 75 ° C., at 1013 mbar are preferred. Preferably, the waxes are selected from vegetable, animal and mineral waxes. Waxes which can be used in accordance with the invention are natural waxes (vegetable waxes: cotton wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartowax, guaruma wax, Japan wax, cork wax, montan wax, ouricury wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, animal waxes: beeswax, coccyx fat, wool wax, shellac wax (see shellac), spermaceti, mineral waxes : Microwaxes, ceresin, ozokerite), chemically modified waxes (hard waxes: hydrogenated jojoba waxes (see jojoba oil), montan wax, Sasol waxes) and synthetic waxes (polyalkylene waxes (such as polyolefin waxes, polyethylene waxes, polypropylene waxes), polyethylene glycol waxes, amide waxes).

The teaching according to the invention also encompasses the combined use of several waxes in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Thus, an addition of small amounts of carnauba wax, for example, can be used to increase the melting and dropping point of another wax. Furthermore, a number of wax mixtures, optionally in admixture with other additives, commercially available. Those under the designations "Spezialwachs 7686 OE" (a mixture of Cetylpalmitat, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 ° C, manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Polywax ^® GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 ° C, manufacturer: Croda) and "Weichceresin ^® FL 400" (a Vaseline / vaseline oil / wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54 ° C, manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralölgesellschaft) available wax mixtures are examples of the invention preferably used mixtures.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain certain waxes in specific quantitative ranges. It is therefore preferred in the context of this embodiment if the cosmetic agent comprises at least one wax selected from the group of beeswax, carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, montan wax, cetyl palmitate or mixtures thereof, in particular beeswax contains. The use of the abovementioned waxes, in combination with the aqueous dispersion of the at least one sulfonate-containing polyurethane polymer, leads to a particularly high hairstyle hold and a particularly good moisture resistance of the hairstyle achieved with these agents.

In addition, it is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic agent - based on its total weight - 0.5 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 1.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 4 , 0 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one wax, in particular beeswax contains. The use of the abovementioned amounts of the at least one wax, in combination with the aqueous dispersion of the at least one sulfonate-containing polyurethane polymer, results in a particularly good hair-setting action.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one anionic film-forming polymer in addition to or instead of the at least one wax mentioned above. According to the invention, cosmetic agents of this embodiment preferably contain film-forming anionic polymers as a hair-fixing compound and are in the form of a smoothing cream for use in combination with a smoothing iron at temperatures of 100 to 250 ° C. in hair straightening processes.

Suitable anionic film-forming polymers are, for example, copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid being preferred anionic monomers, and acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters as nonionic monomers , Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. In this context, preference is given to copolymers which consist of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium or mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Such copolymers may also be present in crosslinked form, with crosslinking agents preferably being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide.

Likewise suitable anionic film-forming polymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids, preference being given to using allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene as crosslinking agents. Other preferred firming anionic polymers are selected from copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (such as those with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60 wt .-%, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ^® A 60 - dispersion in isopropanol Water) as well as copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as described for example under the trade name Luviflex ^® Soft with an acid number of 84 to 105 under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer in an approximately 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water of sold by BASF SE).

However, it has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention if anionic polyurethanes and / or styrenesulfonate-containing polymers are used as the anionic film-forming polymer. Preferred cosmetic compositions are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one anionic film-forming polymer selected from the group of anionic polyurethanes, copolymers of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ -alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrene sulfonate and mixtures thereof, in particular anionic polyurethanes of adipic acid, 1, 6-Hexanediol, Nepentylglycol, Isophorondicyanat, isophoronediamine and the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminoethansulfonsäure and copolymers of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrene sulfonate included. The use of such anionic film-forming polymers has proved advantageous in combination with the aqueous dispersion of the at least one sulfonate-containing polyurethane polymer, in particular with regard to the smoothing effect achieved with these agents and the moisture resistance of the smoothed keratin fibers.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous to use the abovementioned anionic film-forming polymers in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in certain quantitative ranges. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic agent - based on its total weight - 0.2 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 1.0 wt .-%, of at least one anionic film-forming polymer, in particular of anionic polyurethanes and copolymers of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrene sulfonate contains.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one nonionic film-forming polymer in addition to or in lieu of the previously mentioned waxes and anionic film-forming polymers.

Nonionic polymers which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the group of (i) polyvinylpyrrolidone, (ii) copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, (iii) copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide, (iv) copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide, (v) copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide, (vi) copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide and (vii) mixtures thereof.

It is advantageous in the context of the present invention if the abovementioned nonionic film-forming polymers are used in the cosmetics according to the invention in certain ranges. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic agent - based on its total weight - 0.1 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 9.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one nonionic film-forming polymer selected from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and mixtures thereof.

In addition to the components a) and b) described above, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and ingredients selected from the group of (i) alkalizing agents, (ii) cationic and amphoteric polymers, (iii) oils, (iv) surfactants, ( v) amine-functionalized silicones and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferred according to the invention to partially or completely neutralize the anionic polymers used in the cosmetic agent in order to improve their solubility in the cosmetic carrier and to avoid storage instabilities. The neutralization can be carried out, for example, by adding a base, in particular an organic base. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic agents additionally contain at least one alkanolamine, in particular 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 100% by weight 1.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, contained.

In addition to the above-mentioned film-forming anionic and nonionic polymers, the cosmetic agents according to the invention may contain further film-forming polymers selected from cationic and amphoteric polymers. By using such polymers, the long-term content of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be further increased. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic agent contains at least one further cationic and / or amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymer. However, it may also be preferred to use exclusively the above-mentioned sulfonate-containing polyurethane polymer in combination with the at least one hair-setting compound as the film-forming and / or setting polymer.

Cationic polymers are understood as meaning those polymers which contain at least one permanently cationic nitrogen atom. Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are most commonly prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide. Depending on the tertiary amine used, the following groups are known in particular: alkylammonium compounds, alkenylammonium compounds, imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds. Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, such as copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate with N-vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride with N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, copolymers of methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride with N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam and dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and mixtures thereof polymers.

Further suitable cationic polymers are, for example, N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers, N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methylsulfate copolymers, N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / 1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymers, N-vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / N-vinylimidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliummethylsulfate copolymers and mixtures of these polymers.

The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and for the formation of internal salts and zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups in the molecule, and those polymers which contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. A preferred amphoteric polymer is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their (C ₁ to C ₄₎ alkyl esters , Such polymers are commercially available, for example under the trade name Amphomer ^®.

The other film-forming and / or setting polymers may be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 12.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 wt .-% to 10.0 wt. -%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 8.0 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, be contained.

In order to improve the conditioning effect and the conditioning performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, these may additionally contain a cosmetic oil, for example a silicone oil and / or a non-silicone oil, and / or a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol. Silicone oils are preferably dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, which have kinematic viscosities of from 0.2 to 100 cst, preferably from 30 to 50 cst. Preferred non-silicone oils are selected from the group of triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, bile acid, di-n butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, oleic acid decyl ester and mixtures thereof. Preferred C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohols are selected from the group of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, in particular cetearyl alcohol. It is preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic agent additionally comprises at least one oil, in particular a polydimethylsiloxane having a kinematic viscosity of 30 to 50 cst, and / or a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol, in particular cetearyl alcohol, in a total amount of 0.5 to 28 wt .-%, preferably from 2.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 3.0 to 22 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

In addition, the use of at least one surfactant selected from the group of anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants has been found to be advantageous in terms of increasing storage stability. The use of such surfactants avoids phase separation of the ingredients and thus ensures high storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is given to using certain nonionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic agents additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group of C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohols and / or C ₈ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per Mol of alcohol or carboxylic acid, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acid mono- and diesters of glycerol, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil in a total amount - based on their total weight - from 0.01 to 5.0 wt. -%, preferably from 0.1 to 4.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 1.0 wt .-%, included.

Anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylate and / or sulfonate group and can be selected from the group of (i) alkyl (ether) sulfates having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 or 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units, (ii) C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -Alkylethercarbonxylaten, (iii) C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates, (iv) C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -Acylsarcosinate, (v) C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -Acyltaurine, and (vi) mixtures thereof.

The amphoteric surfactants are subdivided into ampholytic surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which have both acidic (for example -COOH or -SO ₃ H groups) and basic hydrophilic groups (for example amino groups) and thus behave acidic or basic depending on the condition. Zwitterionic surfactants are understood by the person skilled in the art to be surfactants which carry both a negative and a positive charge in the same molecule. According to the invention, the use of certain amphoteric surfactants has proven advantageous. Preferred amphoteric surfactants are selected from the group of C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl betaines, C _8-12 alkylamido (C _1-4 ) alkyl betaines, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl sulfobetaines, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl amphoacetates and amphodiacetates , C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ -Alkylamphopropionaten and -dipropionaten, and mixtures thereof.

Cationic surfactants contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and can be selected, for example, from the group of (i) quaternized carboxylic acid triethanolamine ester salts, (ii) quaternized salts of carboxylic acids with diethanolalkylamines, (iii) quaternized salts of carboxylic acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines, (iv) quaternium-92, (v) C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ -alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, and (vi) mixtures thereof.

The cationic, amphoteric and anionic surfactants may be present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount, based on their total weight, of from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, be contained. In the case of mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants, this total amount relates to the total amount of the mixture of these surfactants.

worin
c für ganze Zahlen von 15 bis 25 steht, und
d für ganze Zahlen von 25 bis 40 steht. Ein im Rahmen dieser Ausführungsform ganz besonders bevorzugtes aminfunktionalisiertes Silikon ist ein Polymer mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-Isobutyl PEG/PPG-20/35/Amodimethicone Copolymer. Dieses Polymer enthält etwa 20 Mol Ethylenoxid (c in Struktureinheit der Formel (VII) steht für die ganze Zahl 20) und etwa 35 Mol Propylenoxid (d gemäß Struktureinheit der Formel (VII) steht für die ganze Zahl 35). Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel enthalten zusätzlich mindestens ein aminfunktionalisiertes Silikon in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 2 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,02 bis 1,5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,03 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,05 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des kosmetischen Mittels. Der Einsatz derartiger Silikone hat sich besonders dann als bevorzugt erwiesen, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel als Glättungsmittel konfektioniert sind und mindestens ein zuvor beschriebenes anionisches filmbildendes Polymer enthalten. In addition, it has proven to be advantageous if the cosmetic compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one amine-functionalized silicone. Therefore, preferred cosmetic agents additionally contain at least one amine-functionalized silicone which contains at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VII)

wherein
c stands for integers from 15 to 25, and
d stands for integers from 25 to 40. A very particularly preferred amine-functionalized silicone in the context of this embodiment is a polymer having the INCI name bis-isobutyl PEG / PPG-20/35 / amodimethicone copolymer. This polymer contains about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (c in the structural unit of the formula (VII) stands for the integer 20) and about 35 moles of propylene oxide (d according to the structural unit of the formula (VII) stands for the integer 35). Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one amine-functionalized silicone in a total amount of from 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 1.0% by weight. , in particular 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The use of such silicones has proven to be particularly preferred when the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are formulated as smoothing agents and contain at least one anionic film-forming polymer described above.

In the following, particularly preferred embodiments AF1 to AF76 of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are indicated (all figures in percent by weight, PuD = aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer): AF1 AF2 AF3 AF4 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 wax 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF5 AF6 AF7 AF8 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Wax ²⁾ 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF9 AF10 AF11 AF12 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF13 AF14 AF15 AF16 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer ³⁾ 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF17 AF18 AF19 AF20 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 nonionic polymer 0.1-12 0.2-10 0.3 to 9.0 0.5-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF21 AF22 AF23 AF24 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 nonionic polymer ⁴⁾ 0.1-12 0.2-10 0.3 to 9.0 0.5-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF25 AF26 AF27 AF28 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 wax 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Oil and / or C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol ⁵⁾ 0.5 to 28 2.0 to 25 3.0 to 22 5.0 to 20 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF29 AF30 AF31 AF32 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Wax ²⁾ 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Oil and / or C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol ⁵⁾ 0.5 to 28 2.0 to 25 3.0 to 22 5.0 to 20 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF33 AF34 AF35 AF36 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Amine-functionalized silicone ⁶⁾ 0.01-2 0.02-1.5 0.03 - 1.0 0.05-0.5 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF37 AF38 AF39 AF40 Aqueous powder 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer ³⁾ 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Amine-functionalized silicone ⁶⁾ 0.01-2 0.02-1.5 0.03 - 1.0 0.05-0.5 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF41 AF42 AF43 AF44 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 wax 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF45 AF46 af47 AF48 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Wax ²⁾ 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF49 AF50 AF51 AF52 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF13 AF14 AF15 AF16 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer ³⁾ 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF53 AF54 AF55 AF56 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 nonionic polymer 0.1-12 0.2-10 0.3 to 9.0 0.5-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF54 AF58 AF59 AF60 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 nonionic polymer ⁴⁾ 0.1-12 0.2-10 0.3 to 9.0 0.5-8.0 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF61 AF62 AF63 AF64 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 wax 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Oil and / or C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol ⁵⁾ 0.5 to 28 2.0 to 25 3.0 to 22 5.0 to 20 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF65 AF66 AF67 AF68 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Wax ²⁾ 0.5-30 1.0-25 2.5-15 4.0-8.0 Oil and / or C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol ⁵⁾ 0.5 to 28 2.0 to 25 3.0 to 22 5.0 to 20 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF69 AF70 AF71 AF72 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Amine-functionalized silicone ⁶⁾ 0.01-2 0.02-1.5 0.03 - 1.0 0.05-0.5 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 AF73 AF74 AF75 AF76 Aqueous powder ⁷⁾ 0.5-10 1.0 to 9.5 2.0 to 9.0 3.0-8.0 Anionic polymer ³⁾ 0.2-2.5 0.3-2.0 0.4-1.5 0.5-1.0 Amine-functionalized silicone ⁶⁾ 0.01-2 0.02-1.5 0.03 - 1.0 0.05-0.5 Cosmetic Carrier ¹⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 ¹⁾ aqueous carrier containing at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water,
²⁾ beeswax,
³⁾ Mixture of an anionic polyurethane of adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, nepentyl glycol, isophorone dicyanate, isophoronediamine and the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a copolymer of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ -alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrenesulfonate,
⁴⁾ polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
⁵⁾ polydimethylsiloxane having a kinematic viscosity of 30 to 50 cst and / or cetearyl alcohol,
⁶⁾ amine-functionalized silicone comprising the abovementioned structural units of the formulas (V) to (VII),
⁷⁾ PuD contains 0.5 to 1.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer, of peptide and no unbound peptide (s)

In the above-mentioned embodiments AF1 to AF76, the following aqueous dispersions of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer PuD1 to PuD11 are used as PuD in the form of a reaction product of at least one polyurethane prepolymer and at least one peptide. The amounts indicated below are based on the total weight of the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i). No. PuD NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) peptide PuD1 Isocyanate compound of the formula (I) Polyester compound of the formula (II) Polyester compound of the formula (III) Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD2 12-18% by weight of isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 37-43% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (II) 30-35% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (III) Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD3 Isocyanate compound of the formula (I) Polyester compound of the formula (IIa) Polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD4 12-18% by weight of isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 37-43% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIa) 30-35% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD5 12-18% by weight of isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 37-43% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIa) 30-35% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) Wool protein hydrolyzate of average molecular weight M _w from 40,000 to 50,000 Da PuD6 Isocyanate compound of the formula (I) Polyester compound of the formula (IIa) Polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) Polyester compound of the formula (IV) with R ₄ and R ₅ = methyl, d and e = 1 to 4, X ⁺ = Na Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD7 12-18% by weight of isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 37-43% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIa) 30-35% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) 2.0-5.0% by weight Polyester compound of formula (IV) with R ₄ and R ₅ = methyl, d and e = 1 to 4, X ⁺ = Na Wool protein hydrolyzate of average molecular weight M _w from 40,000 to 50,000 Da PuD8 Isocyanate compound of formula (I) Polyester compound of formula (IIa) Polyester compound of formula (IIIa) Polyester compound of formula (IV) with R ₄ and R ₅ = methyl, d and e = 1 to 4, X ⁺ = Na Polyether compound of formula (V with R ₇ = methyl, f = 30-40 and g = 4-8 polyether compound of the formula (VI) where R ₈ = H, R ₉ = methyl, h and i = 2-6 and j = 25-35 Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD9 12-18% by weight of isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 37-43% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIa) 30-35% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) 2.0-5.0% by weight Polyester compound of formula (IV) with R ₄ and R ₅ = methyl, d and e = 1 to 4, X ⁺ = Na 3.0-6.0 wt .-% polyether compound of formula (V) with R ₇ = methyl, f = 30-40 and g = 4-8 3.0-6.0 wt .-% polyether compound of the formula (IV) with R ₈ = H, R ₉ = methyl, h and i = 2-6 and j = 25 -35 Wool protein hydrolyzate of average molecular weight M _w from 40,000 to 50,000 Da PuD10 Isocyanate compound of formula (I) Polyester compound of formula (IIa) Polyester compound of formula (IIIa) Polyester compound of formula (IV) with R ₄ and R ₅ = methyl, d and e = 1 to 4, X ⁺ = Na Polyether compound of formula (V with R ₇ = methyl, f = 30-40 and g = 4-8 polyether compound of the formula (VI) where R ₈ = H, R ₉ = methyl, h and i = 2-6 and j = 25-35 neopentyl glycol Includes 12-500 amino acids PuD11 12-18% by weight of isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 37-43% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIa) 30-35% by weight of the polyester compound of the formula (IIIa) 2.0-5.0% by weight Polyester compound of formula (IV) with R ₄ and R ₅ = methyl, d and e = 1 to 4, X ⁺ = Na 3.0-6.0 wt .-% polyether compound of formula (V) with R ₇ = methyl, f = 30-40 and g = 4-8 3.0-6.0 wt .-% polyether compound of the formula (IV) with R ₈ = H, R ₉ = methyl, h and i = 2-6 and j = 25 -35 0.5-1.5% by weight of neopentyl glycol Wool protein hydrolyzate of average molecular weight M _w from 40,000 to 50,000 Da

The above-mentioned, particularly preferred embodiments of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high hairstyle hold, in particular a high stiffness of the hairstyle, and lead to an improved moisture resistance of the hairstyles formed by these means.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, wherein a cosmetic agent according to the invention applied to the keratinic fibers and these are then brought into the desired shape.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, in particular with regard to the cosmetic agents used there, mutatis mutandis applies to the said cosmetic agents according to the invention.

Finally, another object of the present invention is the use of cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and b) at least one hair-setting compound selected from the group of waxes, film-forming anionic polymers as well as their mixtures to Improvement of the long-term content of the keratinic fibers formed by these agents and to increase the durability of the hairstyle obtained with these agents.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, in particular with regard to the aqueous dispersion of the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer, the statements made on the cosmetic agents according to the invention and on the method according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis.

• 1. Kosmetisches Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinischer Fasern, enthaltend in einem kosmetisch verträglichen Träger a) mindestens eine wässrigen Dispersion mindestens eines Peptid-haltigen Polyurethanpolymers und b) mindestens einer haarfestigenden Verbindung, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Wachsen, filmbildenden anionischen Polymeren sowie deren Mischungen.
• 2. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es mindestens ein Peptid-haltiges Polyurethanpolymer in Form eines Reaktionsprodukts aus (i) mindestens einem NCO-Gruppen terminierten Polyurethanprepolymer und (ii) mindestens einem Peptid enthält.
• 3. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) mindestens eine Isocyanatverbindung der Formel (I) und mindestens eine Polyesterverbindung der Formel (II) und mindestens eine Polyesterverbindung der Formel (III)
  
  worin a für ganze Zahlen von 50 bis 200, insbesondere von 100 bis 150, steht, n und m, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 4 bis 12, insbesondere von 5 bis 10, stehen, b und c, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 15, insbesondere von 3 bis 15, stehen, p und q, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 4, insbesondere von 1 bis 3, stehen, R₁ und R₃, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, stehen und R₂ für eine cyclische Gruppe mit 5 bis 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere eine aromatische cyclische Gruppe mit 5 bis 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, steht, enthält.
• 4. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) mindestens eine Polyesterverbindung der Formel (IIa) und mindestens eine Polyesterverbindung der Formel (IIIa)
  
  
  worin a für ganze Zahlen von 110 bis 135 steht und b und c, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 3 bis 15 stehen, enthält.
• 5. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Polyesterverbindung der Formel (II), insbesondere der Formel (IIa), eine zahlenmittlere Molmasse M_n von 1.000 bis 10.000 g/mol, vorzugsweise von 2.000 bis 5.500 g/mol, bevorzugt von 3.000 bis 5.000 g/mol, insbesondere von 3.500 bis 4.000 g/mol, aufweist.
• 6. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 4 oder 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Polyesterverbindung der Formel (III), insbesondere der Formel (IIIa), eine zahlenmittlere Molmasse M_n von 500 bis 10.000 g/mol, vorzugsweise von 1.000 bis 4.500 g/mol, bevorzugt von 2.000 bis 4.000 g/mol, insbesondere von 2.500 bis 3.000 g/mol, aufweist.
• 7. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine Isocyanatverbindung der Formel (I) – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 2,0 bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 5,0 bis 25 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 10 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 12 bis 18 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 8. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine Polyesterverbindung der Formel (II), insbesondere der Formel (IIa) – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 25 bis 55 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 30 bis 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 35 bis 45 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 37 bis 43 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 9. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine Polyesterverbindung der Formel (III), insbesondere der Formel (IIIa) – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 15 bis 50 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 20 bis 45 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 25 bis 40 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 30 bis 35 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 10. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) ein Gewichtsverhältnis der mindestens einen Isocyanatverbindung der Formel (I) zu der mindestens einen Polyesterverbindung der Formel (II), insbesondere (IIa), und der mindestens einen Polyesterverbindung der Formel (III), insbesondere (IIIa), von 1:5:5 bis 2:1:1, vorzugsweise von 1:4:4 bis 1:1:1, insbesondere von 1:4:4 bis 1:3:3, aufweist.
• 11. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) zusätzlich mindestens eine ionisches Polyetherverbindung der Formel (IV)
  
  worin R₄ und R₅, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, stehen, d und e, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für die ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 6, insbesondere von 1 bis 4, stehen und X⁺ für ein physiologisch verträgliches Kation, insbesondere Natrium, steht, enthält.
• 12. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine ionische Polyetherverbindung der Formel (IV) – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 1,0 bis 12 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 1,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 2,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 13. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 11 oder 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) ein Gewichtsverhältnis der mindestens einen Polyesterverbindung der Formel (II), insbesondere (IIa), zu der mindestens einen Polyesterverbindung der Formel (III), insbesondere (IIIa), und der mindestens einen ionischen Polyetherverbindung der Formel (IV) von 1:20:20 bis 1:8:8, vorzugsweise von 1:16:16 bis 1:11:11, insbesondere von 1:15:15 bis 1:13:13, aufweist.
• 14. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) zusätzlich mindestens eine Polyetherverbindung der Formel (V) und/oder (VI), insbesondere der Formeln (V) und (VI)
  
  worin R₇ für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, steht R₈ und R₉, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für Wasserstoff oder eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für Wasserstoff oder eine lineare C₁-C₂-Alkylgruppe, stehen, wobei mindestens einer der Reste R₈ oder R₉ für eine lineare C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, steht, f, für ganze Zahlen von 10 bis 60, insbesondere von 30 bis 40, steht, g für ganze Zahlen von 2 bis 15, insbesondere von 4 bis 8, steht, h und j, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 10, insbesondere von 2 bis 6, stehen und i für ganze Zahlen von 10 bis 50, insbesondere von 25 bis 35, steht, enthält.
• 15. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 14, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine nichtionische Polyetherverbindung der Formel (V) – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 1,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 2,0 bis 12 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 3,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 16. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 14 oder 15, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine nichtionische Polyetherverbindung der Formel (VI) – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 1,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 2,0 bis 12 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 2,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 3,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 17. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 14 bis 16, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) ein Gewichtsverhältnis der mindestens einen Polyesterverbindung der Formel (II), insbesondere (IIa), zu der mindestens einen Polyesterverbindung der Formel (III), insbesondere (IIIa), der mindestens einen nichtionischen Polyetherverbindung der Formel (V) und der mindestens einen nichtionischen Polyetherverbindung der Formel (VI) von 20:20:1:1 bis 6:2:1:1, vorzugsweise von 15:15:1:1 bis 7:4:1:1, insbesondere von 12:10:1:1 bis 8:5:1:1, aufweist.
• 18. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 3 bis 17, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) zusätzlich mindestens eine Diolverbindung, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von 1,2-Propandiol, 1,3-Propandiol, 1,4-Butandiol, Neopentylglycol, 1,6-Hexandiol, insbesondere Neopentylglycol, enthält.
• 19. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Punkt 18, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) die mindestens eine Diolverbindung, insbesondere Neopentylglycol – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,3 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 bis 1,5 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 20. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 2 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) eine zahlenmittlere Molmasse M_n von 1.500 bis 25.000 g/mol, vorzugsweise von 2.000 bis 15.000 g/mol, insbesondere von 3.000 bis 15.000 g/mol, aufweist.
• 21. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 2 bis 20, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das NCO-Gruppen terminierte Polyurethanprepolymer (i) einen Gewichtsanteil von freien Isocyanatgruppen – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Polyurethanprepolymers – von 0,2 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1,0 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, aufweist.
• 22. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 2 bis 21, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine Peptid 5 bis 1.000, vorzugsweise 6 bis 9.00, bevorzugt 6 bis 800, insbesondere 12 bis 600, Aminosäuren aufweist.
• 23. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 2 bis 22, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine Peptid ein mittleres Molekulargewicht M_w von 1.000 bis 100.000 Da, vorzugsweise 10.000 bis 100.000 Da, bevorzugt 30.000 bis 80.000 Da, insbesondere 40.000 bis 50.000 Da, aufweist.
• 24. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 2 bis 23, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine Peptid einen isoelektrischen Punkt von 2,5 bis 6,9, vorzugsweise von 3,0 bis 6,5, bevorzugt von 3,5 bis 6,0, insbesondere von 4,0 bis 5,5, aufweist.
• 25. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 2 bis 24, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine Peptid ein Proteinhydrolysat, insbesondere ein Proteinhydrolysat aus Wolle, ist.
• 26. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Peptid-haltige Polyurethanpolymer das mindestens eine Peptid, insbesondere das Proteinhydrolysat aus Wolle – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Polyurethanpolymers – in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,3 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,4 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 bis 1,6 Gew.-%, enthält.
• 27. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die wässrige Dispersion eine mittlere Teilchengröße D₅₀ von 50 bis 500 nm, insbesondere von 100 bis 400 nm, aufweist.
• 28. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die wässrige Dispersion einen Feststoffgehalt – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Dispersion, von 10 bis 70 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 15 bis 65 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 20 bis 60 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 30 bis 50 Gew.-%, aufweist.
• 29. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die wässrige Dispersion kein(e) ungebundenen Peptid(e) enthält.
• 30. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die wässrige Dispersion keine zusätzlichen Emulgatoren, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von anionischen, nichtionischen, kationischen, amphoteren Emulgatoren sowie deren Mischungen, enthält.
• 31. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1,0 bis 9,5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2,0 bis 9,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 3,0 bis 8,0 Gew.-%, mindestens einer wässrigen Dispersion mindestens eines Peptid-haltigen Polyurethanpolymers enthält.
• 32. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es mindestens ein Wachs, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Bienenwachs, Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, Cetylpalmitat oder deren Mischungen, insbesondere Bienenwachs, enthält.
• 33. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – 0,5 bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1,0 bis 25 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere 4,0 bis 8,0 Gew.-%, mindestens eines Wachses, insbesondere Bienenwachs, enthält.
• 34. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es mindestens ein anionisches filmbildendes Polymer, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von anionischen Polyurethanen, Copolymeren von C₁₀-C₁₆-Alkylethern von alkoxylierter Maleinsäure und Styrolsulfonat sowie deren Mischungen, insbesondere anionische Polyurethane aus Adipinsäure, 1,6-Hexandiol, Nepentylglycol, Isophorondicyanat, Isophorondiamin sowie dem Natriumsalz der N-(2-Aminoethyl)-3-aminoethansulfonsäure und Copolymere von C₁₀-C₁₆-Alkylethern von alkoxylierter Maleinsäure und Styrolsulfonat, enthält
• 35. Kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der vorangehenden Punkte, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es – bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht – 0,2 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,3 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,4 bis 1,5 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, mindestens eines anionischen filmbildenden Polymers, insbesondere von anionischen Polyurethanen aus Adipinsäure, 1,6-Hexandiol, Nepentylglycol, Isophorondicyanat, Isophorondiamin sowie dem Natriumsalz der N-(2-Aminoethyl)-3-aminoethansulfonsäure und Copolymeren von C₁₀-C₁₆-Alkylethern von alkoxylierter Maleinsäure und Styrolsulfonat, enthält.
• 36. Verfahren zur temporären Verformung keratinischer Fasern, wobei ein kosmetisches Mittel nach einem der Punkte 1 bis 35 auf die keratinischen Fasern appliziert und diese anschließend in die gewünschte Form gebracht werden.
• 37. Verwendung eines kosmetischen Mittels, enthaltend in einem kosmetisch verträglichen Träger a) mindestens eine wässrige Dispersion mindestens eines Peptid-haltigen Polyurethanpolymers und b) mindestens eine haarfestigenden Verbindung, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Wachsen, filmbildenden anionischen Polymeren sowie deren Mischungen zur Verbesserung des Langzeithalts der mit diesen Mitteln geformten keratinischen Fasern sowie zur Erhöhung der Beständigkeit der mit diesen Mitteln erzielten Frisur.

The present invention is outlined in particular by the following points:

• 1. A cosmetic composition for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and b) at least one hair-setting compound selected from the group of waxes, film-forming anionic polymers and mixtures thereof.
• 2. Cosmetic composition according to item 1, characterized in that it contains at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer in the form of a reaction product of (i) at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer and (ii) at least one peptide.
• 3. Cosmetic composition according to item 2, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (II) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (III)
  
  wherein a is an integer from 50 to 200, in particular from 100 to 150, n and m, each independently of one another, are integers from 4 to 12, in particular from 5 to 10, b and c are each independently of one another, for integers from 1 to 15, in particular from 3 to 15, p and q, in each case independently of one another, are integers from 1 to 4, in particular from 1 to 3, R ₁ and R _{3 are} each independently of one another, are a linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl group, and R _{2 is} a cyclic group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular an aromatic cyclic group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms ,
• 4. Cosmetic agent according to item 3, characterized in that at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) at least one polyester compound of the formula (IIa) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (IIIa)
  
  
  wherein a is an integer of 110 to 135 and b and c each independently represent integers of 3 to 15.
• 5. Cosmetic composition according to item 4, characterized in that the polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular of the formula (IIa), a number average molecular weight M _n of 1,000 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 5,500 g / mol, preferably from 3,000 to 5,000 g / mol, in particular from 3,500 to 4,000 g / mol.
• 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 4 or 5, characterized in that the polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular of the formula (IIIa), a number average molecular weight M _n of 500 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 1,000 to 4,500 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular from 2,500 to 3,000 g / mol.
• 7. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 3 to 6, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 2.0 to at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) 30 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 12 to 18 wt .-%, contains.
• 8. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 3 to 7, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular of the formula (IIa) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of from 25 to 55% by weight, preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, preferably from 35 to 45% by weight, in particular from 37 to 43% by weight.
• 9. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 3 to 8, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular of the formula (IIIa) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 15 to 50 wt .-%, preferably from 20 to 45 wt .-%, preferably from 25 to 40 wt .-%, in particular from 30 to 35 wt .-%, contains.
• 10. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 3 to 9, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a weight ratio of the at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) to the at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), and the at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular (IIIa), of 1: 5: 5 to 2: 1: 1, preferably 1: 4: 4 to 1: 1: 1, in particular of 1 : 4: 4 to 1: 3: 3.
• 11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 3 to 10, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) additionally contains at least one ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV)
  
  wherein R ₄ and R ₅ each independently represent a linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl group, d, and e, each independently, represent integers from 1 to 6, in particular from 1 to 4, and X ^{+ is} a physiologically acceptable cation, in particular sodium, contains.
• 12. Cosmetic composition according to item 11, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt. -%, preferably from 1.0 to 12 wt .-%, preferably from 1.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 5.0 wt .-%, contains.
• 13. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 11 or 12, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) a weight ratio of at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), to the at least one polyester compound of Formula (III), in particular (IIIa), and the at least one ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV) of 1:20:20 to 1: 8: 8, preferably from 1:16:16 to 1:11:11, in particular of 1:15:15 to 1:13:13.
• 14. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 3 to 13, characterized in that at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) additionally contains at least one polyether compound of the formula (V) and / or (VI), in particular of the formulas (V) and ( VI)
  
  wherein R _{7 is} a linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl group, R ₈ and R _{9 are} each independently of one another, hydrogen or a linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, in particular is hydrogen or a linear C ₁ -C ₂ -alkyl group, where at least one of the radicals R ₈ or R _{9 is} a linear C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, f, for integers from 10 to 60, in particular of 30 to 40, g represents integers from 2 to 15, especially from 4 to 8, h, and j, each independently, are integers from 1 to 10, especially from 2 to 6, and i is whole Numbers from 10 to 50, in particular from 25 to 35, contains.
• 15. Cosmetic composition according to item 14, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 1.5 to 15 wt. -%, preferably from 2.0 to 12 wt .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, contains.
• 16. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 14 or 15, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (VI) - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 1.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 2.0 to 12 wt .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, contains.
• 17. Cosmetic agent according to any one of items 14 to 16, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) a weight ratio of at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), to the at least one polyester compound of Formula (III), in particular (IIIa), the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V) and the at least one nonionic polyether compound of the formula (VI) of 20: 20: 1: 1 to 6: 2: 1: 1, preferably from 15: 15: 1: 1 to 7: 4: 1: 1, in particular from 12: 10: 1: 1 to 8: 5: 1: 1.
• 18. Cosmetic agent according to one of items 3 to 17, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) additionally at least one diol compound selected from the group of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 , 4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, especially neopentyl glycol.
• 19. Cosmetic composition according to item 18, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) the at least one diol compound, in particular neopentyl glycol - based on its total weight - in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 1.5 wt .-%, contains.
• 20. Cosmetic agent according to any one of items 2 to 19, characterized in that the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a number average molecular weight M _n of 1,500 to 25,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 15,000 g / mol, in particular of 3,000 up to 15,000 g / mol.
• 21. A cosmetic composition according to any one of items 2 to 20, characterized in that the NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) a weight fraction of free isocyanate groups - based on the total weight of the polyurethane prepolymer - from 0.2 to 3.0 wt .-% , in particular from 1.0 to 2.0 wt .-%, having.
• 22. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 2 to 21, characterized in that the at least one peptide has 5 to 1,000, preferably 6 to 9:00, preferably 6 to 800, in particular 12 to 600, amino acids.
• 23. Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 2 to 22, characterized in that the at least one peptide has an average molecular weight M _w of 1,000 to 100,000 Da, preferably 10,000 to 100,000 Da, preferably 30,000 to 80,000 Da, in particular 40,000 to 50,000 Da ,
• 24. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 2 to 23, characterized in that the at least one peptide has an isoelectric point of 2.5 to 6.9, preferably from 3.0 to 6.5, preferably from 3.5 to 6, 0, in particular from 4.0 to 5.5, has.
• 25. Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 2 to 24, characterized in that the at least one peptide is a protein hydrolyzate, in particular a protein hydrolyzate of wool.
• 26. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer contains the at least one peptide, in particular the protein hydrolyzate of wool, based on the total weight of the polyurethane polymer - in a total amount of 0.2 to 3.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.4 to 2.0 wt .-% , in particular from 0.5 to 1.6 wt .-%, contains.
• 27. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the aqueous dispersion has an average particle size D ₅₀ of 50 to 500 nm, in particular from 100 to 400 nm.
• 28. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the aqueous dispersion has a solids content - based on the total weight of the dispersion, from 10 to 70 wt .-%, preferably from 15 to 65 wt .-%, preferably from 20 to 60 wt .-%, in particular from 30 to 50 wt .-%, having.
• 29. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the aqueous dispersion contains no unbound peptide (s).
• 30. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the aqueous dispersion contains no additional emulsifiers selected from the group of anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric emulsifiers and mixtures thereof.
• 31. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1.0 to 9.5 wt .-%, preferably 2.0 to 9 , 0 wt .-%, in particular 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer.
• 32. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it contains at least one wax selected from the group of beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, cetyl palmitate or mixtures thereof, in particular beeswax.
• 33. Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.5 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 1.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 15 wt. %, in particular 4.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one wax, in particular beeswax contains.
• 34. Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic film-forming polymer selected from the group of anionic polyurethanes, copolymers of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrene sulfonate and mixtures thereof, in particular anionic polyurethanes from adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, nepentyl glycol, isophorone dicyanate, isophoronediamine and the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminoethanesulfonic acid and copolymers of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ -alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrenesulfonate
• 35. Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.2 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one anionic film-forming polymer, in particular of anionic polyurethanes of adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, nepentyl glycol, isophorone dicyanate, isophoronediamine and the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminoethanesulfonic acid and copolymers of C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrenesulfonate.
• 36. A method for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, wherein a cosmetic agent according to any one of items 1 to 35 applied to the keratinic fibers and these are then brought into the desired shape.
• 37. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and b) at least one hair-setting compound selected from the group of waxes, film-forming anionic polymers and mixtures thereof for improving the long-term content the keratinic fibers formed by these agents and to increase the durability of the hairstyle obtained with these agents.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without, however, limiting it to:

Examples:

1. Preparation of the aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer

60 g of a polyester polyol having a number average molecular weight M _n of 3.937 g / mol (corresponding to polyester compound of the formula (IIa)), 49 g of a polyester polyol having a number average molecular weight M _n of 1,934 g / mol (corresponding to polyester compound of the formula (IIIa)), 1.5 g of an ionic polyether polyol having a number average molecular weight M _n of 425 g / mol (corresponds to ionic polyether compound of the formula (IV)), 6.0 g of a nonionic polyether polyol having a number average molecular weight M _n of 1.902 g / mol (corresponds nonionic polyether compound of the formula (V)), 6.0 g of a nonionic polyether polyol having a number average molecular weight M _n of 2,040 g / mol (corresponding to nonionic polyether compound of the formula (VI)) and 1.5 g of diol compound in the form of neopentyl glycol are at 80 ° C and dried for 1 hour under vacuum (p <0.1 mbar) to remove residual water. The flask was flooded with nitrogen and cooled to 70 ° C. Isophorone diisocyanate (22.6 g, 101.7 mmol, equivalent isocyanate compound of the formula (I)) and a catalyst (Fomrez UL-28, 0.01 g, Momentive Performance Materials Germany) were then added and the reaction after an initial increase in the Temperature at 80 ° C performed. The NCO content was measured every half hour by back titration ISO 11909: 2007-05 certainly. After the theoretical value of 1.68% was reached (2 hours), 125 g of dry ethyl acetate was added under reflux and with vigorous stirring.

To each 35.5 g of the above NCO groups terminated polyurethane prepolymer solution was added 1 drop of a solution defoamer (Foammaster 223, Cognis Germany). Furthermore, 3 peptide solutions with a pH of 6.4 to 6.8 and a total weight of 70.0 g were prepared, each containing 0.71 g, 1.06 g and 1.42 g of a hydrolyzed wool protein (Keratec IFP PE, Croda GmbH Germany, average molecular weight Mw = 40,000 to 50,000 Da). The polyurethane prepolymer solution is then dispersed in the respective peptide solution at 40 ° C (UltraTurrex, 13,000 rpm, 10 minutes), with the amount of continuous peptide solution chosen such that the initial NCO concentration in the mixture is 0.18% by weight. % is. The dispersions were then passed through a homogenizer 4 times in each case.

To separate the unbound peptides, dialysis was carried out directly after the homogenization. For this purpose, a dialysis membrane of cellulose ester with a molecular weight cut-off (MWCO) of 100 KDa (Carl Roth GmbH & Co. KG, Germany) was cut into 4 parts each 25 cm in length and soaked in distilled water for 30 minutes to preservative remove. Each membrane was filled with 40.0 g of the dispersion and sealed with clamps. Dialysis was performed against distilled water (4,000 g) for 1 week. The dialysis water was changed after 1.5 hours, 3 hours, 18 hours, 42 hours, 66 hours and 168 hours (1 week). In order to determine the content of covalently bound peptides, in each case samples of the exchanged dialysis water were stored.

The three aqueous dispersions of peptide-containing polyurethane polymers prepared in this way had a mean particle size D ₅₀ of 100 to 400 nm (determined by laser diffraction, LD) and a peptide content of 0.6 to 0.7% by weight, 0.9 to 1.1 wt .-% and 1.3 to 1.4 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the polyurethane polymer - (determined by BCA assay, as explained above). 2. Formulations (all figures in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the respective cosmetic product): raw material 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Aqueous powder ¹⁾ 2.0 2.0 1.5 9.5 4.0 5.0 7.0 Wax ²⁾ 3.0 3.0 10 0.5 4.0 2.5 8.0 Oil and C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alcohol ³⁾ - 15 15 15 15 15 15 2-amino-2-methylpropanol - 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Nonionic surfactant ⁴⁾ - 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycerine 99.5% - 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 ¹⁾ preferably one of the previously mentioned PuD1 to PuD11 or the aqueous dispersion prepared under point 1
²⁾ preferably selected from beeswax,
³⁾ preferably selected from polydimethylsiloxanes with kinematic viscosity of 30 to 50 cst and cetearyl alcohol
⁴⁾ preferably selected from adducts of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with C ₈ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and / or carboxylic acid monoesters of glycerol

All cosmetics 1 to 7 gave a styling agent in the form of a cream, which spread well on the hair and left no overly greasy feeling on the hands. The hairstyles obtained with these agents had a high hold, high stiffness and good moisture resistance. raw material 8th 9 10 11 12 13 14 Aqueous powder ¹⁾ 2.0 2.0 1.5 9.5 4.0 5.0 7.0 Anionic polymer ²⁾ 0.6 0.6 2.5 2.0 0.3 0.5 1.0 Aminofunctionalized silicone ³⁾ - 0.25 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.05 0.15 ethanol - 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Nonionic surfactant ⁴⁾ - 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 1,2-propanediol - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium benzoate - 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 ¹⁾ preferably one of the previously mentioned PuD1 to PuD11 or the aqueous dispersion prepared under point 1
²⁾ preferably selected from a mixture of anionic polyurethanes of adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, Nepentylglycol, Isophorondicyanat, isophoronediamine and the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminoethansulfonsäure and copolymers of C10-C16-alkyl ethers of alkoxylated maleic acid and styrenesulfonate,
³⁾ preferably contains the abovementioned structural units of the formulas (V) to (VII)
⁴⁾ preferably selected from adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil

All cosmetics 8 to 14 gave a styling agent in the form of a smoothing cream, which was distributed well on the hair. By means of a flat iron, a high smoothing effect of the hair treated with these agents could be achieved. The smoothed hair had a high hold and a high moisture resistance. In addition, no excessive hair damage occurred during the smoothing.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited non-patent literature

• DIN 53240-2 (November 2007) [0030]
• EN ISO 11909: 2007-05 [0047]
• EN ISO 11909: 2007-05 [0050]
• ISO 11357-3 (2013) [0052]
• ISO 11357-3 [0052]
• Andrews P .; "Estimation of the Molecular Weights of Proteins by Sephadex Gel Filtration"; Biochem. J., 1964, 91, pages 222 to 233 [0055]
• ISO 11909: 2007-05 [0101]

Claims (10)

 Cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and b) at least one hair-setting compound selected from the group of waxes, film-forming anionic polymers, film-forming nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer in the form of a reaction product of (i) at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer and (ii) at least one peptide. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) comprises at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (II) and at least one polyester compound of the formula (III)

wherein a is an integer from 50 to 200, in particular from 100 to 150, n and m, each independently of one another, are integers from 4 to 12, in particular from 5 to 10, b and c are each independently of one another, for integers from 1 to 15, in particular from 3 to 15, p and q, in each case independently of one another, are integers from 1 to 4, in particular from 1 to 3, R ₁ and R _{3 are} each independently of one another, are a linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, in particular a linear C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl group, and R _{2 is} a cyclic group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular an aromatic cyclic group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms , Cosmetic composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the at least one NCO-terminated polyurethane prepolymer (i) has a weight ratio of the at least one isocyanate compound of the formula (I) to the at least one polyester compound of the formula (II), in particular (IIa), and at least one polyester compound of the formula (III), in particular (IIIa), of 1: 5: 5 to 2: 1: 1, preferably of 1: 4: 4 to 1: 1: 1, in particular of 1: 4: 4 to 1 : 3: 3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the at least one peptide is a protein hydrolyzate, in particular a protein hydrolyzate of wool. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the peptide-containing polyurethane polymer contains the at least one peptide, in particular the protein hydrolyzate of wool - based on the total weight of the polyurethane polymer - in a total amount of 0.2 to 3.0 wt .-%. , preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.4 to 2.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 1.6 wt .-%, contains. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1.0 to 9.5 wt .-%, preferably 2.0 to 9.0 Wt .-%, in particular 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 25% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 15% by weight. , in particular 4.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, of at least one wax, in particular beeswax contains. A method for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, wherein a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 applied to the keratinic fibers and these are then brought into the desired shape. Use of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one aqueous dispersion of at least one peptide-containing polyurethane polymer and b) at least one hair setting compound selected from the group of waxes, film-forming anionic polymers and mixtures thereof for improving the long-term content of the keratinic fibers formed by these agents and for increasing the durability of the hairstyle obtained with these agents.