EP3267972A1

EP3267972A1 - Product and method for the temporary shaping of keratin-containing fibers

Info

Publication number: EP3267972A1
Application number: EP15797040.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Julia Bibiane Lange; Anna PULS; Cyrielle Martinez; Bernd Richters
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2015-03-09
Filing date: 2015-11-11
Publication date: 2018-01-17
Also published as: US10668003B2; US20180049967A1; WO2016142013A1; DE102015204148A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the temporary shaping of hair, containing a combination of two specific anionic acrylate copolymers. The cosmetic composition provides an extremely good moisture resistance.

Description

"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the hair setting or for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, wherein the composition contains a combination of two anionic acrylate polymers.

The temporary design of hairstyles for a longer period of time to several days usually requires the application of firming agents. Therefore play

Hair treatment products, which serve a temporary shaping of the hair, an important role. Corresponding temporary deformation agents usually contain synthetic polymers and / or waxes as the setting agent. Means for supporting the temporary shaping keratinhaltiger fibers can be formulated for example as a hair spray, hair wax, hair gel, hair foam.

The most important property of a hair temporary deformation agent, hereafter called a styling agent, is to treat the treated fibers in the newly modeled form - i. a form imprinted on the hair - to give as strong a hold as possible. One also speaks of strong hairstyle or the high degree of hold of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of setting agents used, but also an influence of the other ingredients of the styling agent may be given.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tack and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable for all hair types and mild to hair and skin.

In order to meet the different requirements, a variety of synthetic polymers have been developed as setting agents, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it leads to the formation of so-called film plaques, that is, residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would have dandruff. Similar problems arise when waxes as a firming agent in the Styling agent find use. If the styling agent is a gel or a paste, the polymers should also have thickening properties.

Known anionic polymers which find use in hair fixation products are crosslinked anionic amphiphilic polymers which contain a (meth) acrylic acid unit and a

(Meth) acrylic acid oxyalkylene alkyl ester unit. Such polymers are described, for example, in European patent EP 897 71 1 B1 and German patent applications DE 10201 1077364 A1 and DE 102009001978 A1 and are commercially available e.g. available under the name Aculyn® 88 (INCI: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer). DE 10 201 1077 364 A1 and DE 10 2009 001 978 A1 relate to the use of such a polymer, especially Aculyn® 88, in combination with another special crosslinked anionic polymer for the temporary shaping of hair.

A structurally similar polymer is commercially available under the name BALANCE® RTF (INCI: Acrylates / Ceteareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), the function of which is described in U.S. Pat

Styling products essentially that of a thickener and film former is.

Furthermore, hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer (and) Water) are commercially available, which act essentially as a thickening agent. The data sheet Aquastyle ^® SH-100 polymer (Ashland Inc.) describes such an acrylate copolymer and its use in combination with carbomers. It describes suitability for crystal clear hair gels, good initial stiffness, moisture resistance and long-term performance.

An object of the present invention was to provide further suitable polymer combinations which are distinguished by good film-forming and / or setting properties, have a very high degree of retention, without sacrificing flexibility and good moisture resistance, in particular perspiration and water resistance would and should also be suitable for the production of stable viscous and stable transparent cosmetic compositions. In particular, currently available styling agents can be improved to the extent that a good combination of stiffness (Stiffness) and long-term (High Humidity Curl Retention) is not always sufficiently guaranteed. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide such styling agents, which in addition to the above-mentioned properties, in particular both a good stiffness and a good

Long-term result.

This has been achieved according to the invention by a combination of two specific, mutually different anionic acrylate polymers.

The present invention provides: 1 . A cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, which contains:

(a) at least one crosslinked acrylate copolymer which comprises at least the following

Structural units (a1) and (a2) is constructed:

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ^{3 is} a (C 8 -C 30) -alkyl group,

M ^{+ represents} a physiologically compatible cation and

x is an integer from 5 to 35

and

(B) at least one anionic acrylate copolymer (b), which at least from the following

Monomer units is constructed:

(b1) at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit

(b2) at least one (meth) acrylic acid ethyl ester unit

(b3) at least one (meth) acrylic acid ester unit derived from the

(Meth) Acrylsäureethylestereinheit (b2) is different and a hydrophobic group as

Ester group has.

The cosmetic composition according to item 1, wherein the x in the structural unit (a2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) is an integer of 10 to 24, more preferably 16 to 22, most preferably 20. 3. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein R ³ in the structural unit (a2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) for a (Ci2-C2o) alkyl group, more preferably a (Ci4-C2o) alkyl group and in particular a (Ci6 -Ci8) alkyl group.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the

Composition of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular from 1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-% , based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) comprises methacrylic acid as monomer unit (b1) and ethyl acrylate as monomer unit (b2).

A cosmetic composition according to any preceding item, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) comprises a (meth) acrylic acid alkyl ester as a monomer unit (b3).

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the

Composition of the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) in a proportion of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular from 1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-% , based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding item, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) at a solids content of 2 wt .-% in an aqueous neutralized solution at 25 ° C has a viscosity of 60,000 to 120,000 cps.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (a) is one with the INCI name Acrylates / Ceteareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, in particular BALANCE® RCF (AkzoNobel).

10. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) is one having the INCI name Acrylates Copolyme (and) Water, in particular AquaStyle SH-100 (Ashland Inc.).

1 1. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (a) is one with the INCI name Acrylates / Ceteareth-Methacrylate Crosspolymer and the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) one with the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer (and) Water. 12. The cosmetic composition of any preceding points, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (a) BALANCE ^® RCF (AkzoNobel) and the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) Aquastyle ^® SH-100 (Ashland Inc.) is.

13. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, which, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, contains:

0.1 to 5.0% by weight of the anionic acrylate copolymer (a), and

0.1 to 5.0% by weight of the anionic acrylate copolymer (b).

14. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, containing, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition:

1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-% of the anionic acrylate copolymer (a), and

1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-% of the anionic acrylate copolymer (b).

15. Cosmetic composition one of the preceding points, wherein the

Composition further at least one of the acrylate copolymers (a) and (b)

various polymer (c), in particular an anionic or nonionic polymer (c) contains.

16. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it continues to be based on its total weight

c) 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone.

17. Cosmetic composition according to item 16, characterized in that the

Weight fraction of the polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer c) in the total weight of the cosmetic composition 2.0 to 8.5 wt .-%, preferably 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-% is.

18. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the

Composition water in a proportion of 50 and 95 wt .-%, preferably between 60 and 90 wt .-% and in particular between 65 and 85 wt .-%, based on the

Total weight of the cosmetic composition.

19. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the

Composition as a hair gel, hair spray, hair foam or hair wax, in particular as a hair gel, is present. 20. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 19 for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers.

21. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 19 for improving the moisture resistance of temporarily deformed keratinic fibers.

22. A method for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 19 is applied to keratinic fibers.

It has been surprisingly found in the present invention that by

Combination of two per se known components that are already used in styling products, an improved moisture resistance of styling products can be obtained.

Other commonly required properties of styling products such as long-term hold, stiffness and low tack remained intact. Such a good combination of properties was not expected even with knowledge of the individual components and was surprising. It was shown experimentally that the combination of the two components resulted in a strongly superadditive, ie synergistic effect with regard to the resistance to moisture, which manifested itself in the HHRC test (High Humidity Curl Retention Test).

The term keratinic fibers according to the invention comprises furs, wool and feathers, but in particular human hair.

The essential constituents of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) and the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) other than the acrylate copolymer (a).

The crosslinked anionic acrylate copolymer (a) is composed at least of the following structural units (a1) and (a2):

(A2)

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ^{3 is} a (C 8 -C 30) -alkyl group,

M ^{+ represents} a physiologically compatible cation and

x is an integer from 5 to 35.

The crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) is amphiphilic due to the structural units it contains. By "amphiphilic" the skilled person generally understands the fact that the same molecule hydrophilic structural elements (for example, those of the formula (a1)) and lipophilic

Structural elements (for example those of the formula (a2)).

In the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond indicated by the symbol ^{* represents} a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.

In particular, physiologically compatible cations M ⁺ for compensating the negative charge of the amphiphilic, anionic polymers are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions and cationic organic compounds suitable with quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed, for example, by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.

For the purposes of the invention, "crosslinked" or "crosslinking" is the linking of polymer chains to one another by covalent chemical bonding to form a network. This covalent linkage of the polymer chains may be effected by means of direct covalent bonding or mediated by a molecular fragment bridging the polymer chains. The Molecule fragment binds to the polymer chains bridged by the molecule fragment, each by means of covalent chemical bonding.

The crosslinking of the crosslinked amphiphilic anionic polymers (a) may preferably be accomplished by using at least one crosslinking monomer. Again, it is preferred to choose the crosslinking monomers from at least one compound of the group formed from polyunsaturated aromatic monomers (such as divinylbenzene, divinylnaphthalene, trivinylbenzene), polyunsaturated alicyclic monomers (such as 1,2,4-trivinylcyclohexane), di-functional esters of phthalic acid (such as diallyl phthalate), polyunsaturated aliphatic monomers (such as dienes, trienes, tetraenes such as isoprene, 1,3-butadiene, 1,5-hexadiene, 1, 5,9-decatriene, 1, 9- Decadiene, 1,5-heptadiene), polyalkenyl ethers (such as triallyl pentaerythritol, diallyl pentaerythritol, diallyl sucrose, octaallyl sucrose, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether), polyunsaturated esters of polyhydric alcohols or polyacids (such as 1,6-hexanediol di (meth) acrylate, tetramethylene tri (meth) acrylate, allyl acrylate , Diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpro pandi (meth) acrylate, polyethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate), alkylenebisacrylamides (such as methylenebisacrylamide, propylenebisacrylamide) hydroxy and carboxy derivatives of methylenebisacrylamide (such as N, N'-bismethylolmethylenebisacrylamide),

Polyethylene glycol di (meth) acrylates (such as ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate,

Diethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, triethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate), polyunsaturated silanes (such as dimethyldivinylsilane, methyltrivinylsilane, allyldimethylvinylsilane, diallyldimethylsilane, tetravinylsilane), N-methylolacrylamide; N-alkoxy (meth) acrylamide wherein the alkoxy group is a (C1 to C18) alkoxy group, unsaturated hydrolyzable silanes (such as

Triethoxyvinylsilane, trisisopropoxyvinylsilane, 3-triethoxysilylpropyl methacrylate), hydrolyzable silanes (such as ethyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane), epoxy-substituted hydrolyzable silanes (such as 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyltriethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethyoxysilane) polyisocyanates (such as 1, 4- Diisocyanatobutane, 1,6-diisocyanatohexane, 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-oxybis (phenyl isocyanate), unsaturated epoxides (such as glycidyl methacrylate, allyl glycidyl ether), polyepoxides (such as diglycidyl ether, 1, 2,5,6-diepoxyhexane, Ethylene glycol diglycidyl ethers), ethoxylated polyols (such as diols, triols and diphenols, each ethoxylated with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of hydroxyl groups and terminated with a polymerizable unsaturated group such as vinyl ethers, allyl ethers, acrylate esters, methacrylate esters, examples include bisphenol A ethoxylated di ( meth) acrylate, bisphenol F ethoxylated di (meth) acrylate, ethoxylated trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylates, acrylate and methacrylate esters of polyols having at least two acrylate ester or methacrylate ester functionalities (such as trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TM PTA), trimethylolpropane ethoxylated (15) triacrylate (TMPE015TA),

Trimethylolpropane dimethacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate (TEGDMA), bisphenol A dimethacrylate ethoxylated with 30 moles of ethylene oxide (EOBDMA)). The copolymer (a) can be constructed according to the invention from further structural units. In a preferred embodiment, the copolymer (a) is at least 30% by weight,

preferably to 40 to 98 wt .-% and in particular to at least 50 to 95 wt .-% of the monomers (a1) and (a2). However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer (a) is composed only of units (a1), and (a2) and crosslinking units, i. H. it consists of these structural units.

The at least one unit (a1) is a (meth) acrylic acid unit and can be a methacrylic acid and / or acrylic acid unit according to the invention.

Preferably, x in the unit (a2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) is an integer from 10 to 24, more preferably from 16 to 22, most preferably 20.

Preferably, R ³ in the unit (a2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) is a (C 12 -C 20) -alkyl group, more preferably (C 4 -C 20) -alkyl group, likewise preferably (C 1 -C 8 -alkyl). The alkyl group is preferably linear but may also be branched. R ³ is more preferably a combination of linear C 16 and C 18 -alkyl groups, ie stearyl and cetyl groups (INCI:

Ceteareth).

Most preferably, the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) is one containing the INCI name Acrylates / Ceteareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer. Most preferably, the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) is one available under the trade name BALANCE® RCF (AkzoNobel). The latter is an about 30% by weight dispersion in water.

Further preferred crosslinked acrylate copolymers (a) bear the INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer. In you, the at least one unit (a1) is a (meth) acrylic acid unit and can according to the invention a methacrylic acid and / or

Be acrylic acid unit. They have 20 units of ethylene oxide and are etherified with stearyl alcohol. Such a polymer is erhätlich example, under the trade name Aculyn ^® 88 (Rohm & Haas). This has in the commercially available form a solids content of about 28 to 33 wt .-% and a pH of 3.3 to 4.3.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain as the second essential constituent an anionic acrylate copolymer (b).

The anionic acrylate copolymer (b) is composed of at least the following monomer units: at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit (b1), at least one (meth) acrylic acid ethyl ester unit (b2) and at least one (meth) acrylic ester unit (b3) derived from the

Ester group has.

The copolymer (b) can be constructed according to the invention from further monomer units.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer (b) is composed only of the units (b1), (b2) and (b3), i. H. it consists of units derived from these monomer units.

The at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit (b1) may be a methacrylic acid or

Acrylic acid unit, with a methacrylic acid unit is preferred.

The at least one (meth) acrylic acid ethyl ester unit (b2) can be a

A methacrylic acid ethyl ester unit or an ethyl acrylate unit, wherein a

Ethyl acrylate is preferred.

The at least one (meth) acrylic ester unit (b3) can according to the invention a

(Meth) acrylic acid alkyl ester unit. The alkyl group of the (meth) acrylic acid alkyl ester unit serves to control the hydrophobicity of the copolymer. The alkyl group is preferably a linear or branched alkyl group having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 to 12

Carbon atoms. The hydrophobic group according to the invention may also be a hydrophobic other than an alkyl group, for. B. an aromatic hydrocarbon ester group. As an example, a substituted or unsubstituted phenyl ester group or substituted or unsubstituted Alkylenphenylestergruppe called z. B. a benzyl ester group.

The viscosity of the anionic used in the cosmetic composition

Acrylate copolymer (b) at a solids content of 2% by weight and neutralized solution at 25 ° C. is preferably at most 60,000 to 120,000 cps.

Suitable anionic acrylate copolymers (b) are commercially available under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer (and) Water. On bevorzugtesten the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) is Aquastyle ^® SH-100 polymer from Ashland, Inc. This has in the commercially available form of a solids content of about 28 to 32 wt .-% and a pH of 2.1 to 4 , 0th

The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the acrylate copolymer (a) and acrylate copolymer (b) in suitable and appropriate amounts for styling agents, which can be adapted for specific application and packaging.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a), for example, in an amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the novel compounds Composition, included. More preferred are proportions of the copolymer (a) from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular from 1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-%, each expressed as the solids content of active substance in the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition of the invention contains the acrylate copolymer (b), based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, for. B. in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, further preferably 1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-%, each stated as the solids content active Substance in the cosmetic composition.

In addition to the above-mentioned advantages, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are distinguished, in particular, by improved long-term preservation in comparison to alternative cosmetic agents. As particularly advantageous for the cosmetic properties of the compositions according to the invention, a weight ratio of the polymers a) and b) in the cosmetic has proved to be 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3 and in particular 2: 1 to 1: 2 ,

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains as the crosslinked anionic acrylate copolymer (a) the copolymer commercially available under the name BALANCE® RCF and as the anionic one

Acrylate copolymer (b) the commercially available under the name AquaStyle ^® SH-100 copolymer. In this combination were particularly good results in terms of a

Combination of stiffness and long-term hold achieved. This is particularly advantageous

Polymer combination for styling products in gel form.

Other commonly required properties of styling products, such. As moisture resistance and low tackiness, are achieved in particular with this combination also, especially in packaging as a hair gel.

The acrylate copolymers (a) and (b) are preferably used in the cosmetic composition in partially neutralized or neutralized form. For neutralization, at least one alkanolamine is preferably used. The usable as the inventive alkalizing agent

Alkanolamines are preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6-Alkylgrundkörper carrying at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine (triethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutane-1 -ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol , 3-Amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol. As a particularly suitable

Neutralizing agent has proven to be 2-amino-2-methylpropanol. According to the invention Therefore, preferred cosmetic agents contain 2-amino-2-methylpropanol. The 2-amino-2-methylpropanol is preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount which does not exceed the amount needed to neutralize the acrylate copolymers (a) and (b). The amounts of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 80 to 100%, particularly preferably from 90 to 100% and in particular from 95 to 100% of the amount required for complete neutralization of the acrylate copolymers (a) and (b). In a preferred embodiment, the proportion by weight of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol in the total weight of the cosmetic agent is from 0.05 to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 3 , 0% by weight.

In summary, a preferred cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers based on their total weight comprises:

(a) 0.1 to 5.0 of at least one crosslinked acrylate copolymer which is composed of at least the following structural units (a1) and (a2):

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ^{3 is} a (C 8 -C 30) -alkyl group,

M ^{+ represents} a physiologically compatible cation and

x is an integer from 5 to 35

and

(b) 0.1 to 5.0 of at least one anionic acrylate copolymer (b) which is composed of at least the following monomer units:

(b1) at least one methacrylic acid unit

(b2) at least one ethyl acrylate unit (b3) at least one methacrylic acid ester moiety derived from the

Acrylic ethyl ester unit (b2) is different and has a hydrophobic group as an ester group.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains one or more further thickening or gelling component (s) other than the acrylate copolymer (a) and (b) and also promoting film formation.

Examples are cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers. The proportion by weight of this further component in the total weight of the cosmetic composition can be comparatively low owing to the presence of components (a) and (b) and amounts, for example, to 0.02 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight. %, and more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight.

Examples are acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / DMAPA

Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer,

Acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / acrylamide copolymer,

Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer,

Acrylates / C1 -2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamides / Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl

Acrylates / Ethylamines Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate / VA

Copolymer, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylate Copolymer, AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide

Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1 -18 Alkyl

Acrylates / C1 -8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60 Copolymer, Butyl

Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylates / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone

Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl

Methacrylates / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA Sulfites, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium

Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG-25/25

Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamides, Polyacrylates-6, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1,

Polyethylacrylate, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24,

Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35,

Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50,

Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polysilicone-9, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6,

Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Caprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG 12 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-10 sorbitol, PVM / MA copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / itaconic acid copolymer, PVP / VA / vinyl propionate copolymer, Rhizobian gum, Rosin acrylate, Shellac, sodium butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate,

Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA / Crotonates Copolymer,

VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl

Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates

Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate and Styrene / VP Copolymer.

Examples of nonionic polymers are:

- Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol (BASF). Luviskol VA 64 and Luviskol VA 73, in each case vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as for example sold under the trademarks Culminal and Benecel (AQUALON).

- shellac.

- Polyvinylpyrrolidone, as they are sold, for example, under the name Luviskol (BASF).

- siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane,

Polyalkylarylsiloxane, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

- Glycosidically substituted silicones.

Which is available in different versions commercially available under the name Carbopol ^®: the other acting as a gelling agent component is a homopolyacrylic (Carbomer INCI) is preferred. The carbomer is preferably in an amount of 0.02 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Due to its cosmetic effect in combination with the copolymers a) and b)

The film-forming polymers preferably used according to the invention are in particular the

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (INCI name: PVP) and the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers (INCI name VP / VA copolymer), wherein the weight fraction of these polymers is preferably limited to amounts between 1, 0 and 10 wt .-%. Especially preferred

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that, based on their total weight, they furthermore contain 1.0 to 10% by weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone. Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions have a weight fraction of the polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer c) in the total weight of the cosmetic composition of from 2.0 to 8.5% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 7.0% by weight. on.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain other conventional substances

Styling products included. Other suitable auxiliaries and additives are in particular additional care substances.

As a care substance, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolysates also includes total hydrolysates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin

Provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or derivatives thereof. There are

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract, but also mono- or oligosaccharides and / or lipids.

Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance. The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example, vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain at least one oil body, preferably at least one oil body from the group of silicone oils. The group of silicone oils includes in particular the dimethicones, to which the cyclomethicones are also to be expected, the amino-functional silicones and the dimethiconols. The dimethicones may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Suitable silicone oils or silicone gums are, in particular, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives,

Dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Ester oils, that is esters of 6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably

Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms such as

Isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V) are more preferred nourishing Olkörper. Also suitable as care substances are dicarboxylic acid esters, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol or

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.

Furthermore, in the composition according to the invention emulsifiers or

contain surface active agents. Preference is given to PEG derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, the z. B are available under the name PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil, e.g. PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36

Hydrogenated Castor Oil or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Preferred according to the invention is the use of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. These are preferably contained in an amount of 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, and also preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight or 0.3 to 0.6% by weight.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, calculated on the total weight of the agent.

The cosmetic carrier according to the invention particularly preferably comprises water, in particular in the amount, that the cosmetic agent, calculated on the total weight of the composition, is at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 20.0% by weight, most preferably at least 40% by weight. Contains% water. Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents have a water content of between 50 and 95% by weight, preferably between 60 and 90% by weight and in particular between 65 and 85% by weight, based on their total weight.

As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.

Examples of water-soluble solvents as cosolvent are glycerol and / or ethylene glycol and / or 1, 2-propylene glycol in an amount of 0 to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent. Table overview

The composition of some preferred cosmetic agents can be found in the following tables (data in% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless stated otherwise).

Formula 6a Formula 7a Formula 8a Formula 9a Formula 10a Copolymer a): 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 1.5 to 3.0 acrylates / ceteareth-20

methacrylates

Crosspolymer

Copolymer b): Acrylates 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 Copolymer (and) Water

Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 11a Formula 12a Formula 13a Formula 14a Formula 15a

Copolymer a): 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 1.5 to 3.0 acrylates / ceteareth-20

methacrylates

Crosspolymer

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Copolymer Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 16b Formula 17b Formula 18b Formula 19b Formula 20b

Copolymer a): 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 1.5 to 3.0 BALANCE ^® RCF

(Information as

Solid content)

Copolymer b): 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 Aquastyle ^® SH-100 (Information as

Solid content)

Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30

Copolymer a) 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 1.5 to 3.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0

Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 31a Formula 32a Formula 33a Formula 34a Formula 35a

methacrylates

Crosspolymer

Copolymer b): Acrylates 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.0 to 4.0 1.5 to 3.0 Copolymer (and) Water Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0

Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 36b Formula 37b Formula 38b Formula 39b Formula 40b

Copolymer a): 0.1 to 5.0 l, 0 to 4.0 l, 0 to 4.0 l, 5 to 3.0 l, 5 to 3.0 BALANCE ^® RCF

(Information as

Solid content)

Copolymer b): 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 1, 0 to 4.0 1, 0 to 4.0 1, 5 to 3.0 Aquastyle ^® SH-100

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Copolymer

Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 41b Formula 42b Formula 43b Formula 44b Formula 45b

Copolymer a): 0.1 to 5.0 1, 0 to 4.0 1, 0 to 4.0 1, from 5 to 3.0 from 1, 5 to 3.0 BALANCE ^® RCF

(Information as

Solid content)

(Information as

Solid content)

Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.4 to 0.8 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 46b Formula 47b Formula 48b Formula 49b Formula 50b

(Information as

Solid content)

(Information as

Solid content)

PEG-40 Hydrogenated 0.05 to 1.5, 0.1 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6 Castor Oil

Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 According to the invention, "Mise" is to be understood as a cosmetic carrier, in particular (if not stated separately) water and optionally further customary constituents of styling products.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be formulated in the forms customary for the temporary shaping of hair, e.g. B. as a hair gel, hair spray hair foam or hair wax. Preference is given to the preparation as a hair gel.

Both hair mousses and hair sprays require the presence of leavening agents.

According to the invention, however, preferably no or only small amounts of

Hydrocarbons are used. Propane, propane / butane mixtures and dimethyl ether are particularly suitable blowing agents according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions according to the invention for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, as well as a method for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the inventive cosmetic

Composition is applied to keratinic fibers.

A further subject of this patent application is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for improving the moisture resistance of temporarily deformed keratinic fibers.

Examples

The following hair gels were produced:

30% by weight of active substance in water

30% by weight of active substance in water The quantities in the table are given in wt .-% of the respective raw material, based on the total composition. The polymer content in each of the compositions V1, V2 and E1 was 5.0% by weight.

For the resulting styling agents, the moisture resistance was determined by means of an HHCR test (High Humidity Curl Retention Test: 6 h) on cleaned Kerling hair strands (mean value determined on 5 hair strands each):

The polymer combination E1 according to the invention therefore showed a clearly superadditive, synergistic effect in terms of moisture resistance.

Claims

claims

1 . A cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, which contains:

Structural units (a1) and (a2) is constructed:

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ^{3 is} a (C 8 -C 30) -alkyl group,

M ^{+ represents} a physiologically compatible cation and

x is an integer from 5 to 35,

and

Monomer units is constructed:

(b1) at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit

(b2) at least one (meth) acrylic acid ethyl ester unit

(b3) at least one (meth) acrylic acid ester unit derived from the

Ester group has.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein R ³ in the structural unit (a2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (a) for a (Ci2-C2o) alkyl group, more preferably a (C14-C20) - alkyl group and in particular a (Ci6-Ci8 ) Alkyl group.

3. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises the copolymer (a) in a proportion of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular of 1 , 5 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) comprises methacrylic acid as a monomer unit (b1) and ethyl acrylate as a monomer unit (b2).

A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) comprises a (meth) acrylic acid alkyl ester as a monomer unit (b3).

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) in a proportion of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular of 1, 5 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the

Composition further at least one of the acrylate copolymers (a) and (b)

various polymer (c), in particular an anionic or nonionic polymer (c) contains.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition as a hair gel, hair spray, hair foam or hair wax, in particular as a hair gel, is present.

9. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers.

10. A method for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to keratinic fibers.