DE102013209897A1 - Cosmetic skin care product - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions containing, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, a) polylactic acid particles and b) at least one active ingredient selected from purine, purine derivatives and / or taurine (2-aminoethanesulphonic acid). are characterized by an unexpected skin care and skin tightening effect.

Description

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for skin treatment.

Aging skin changes the texture of its uppermost layer, the epidermis, as the aging process progresses. This gets thinner and the connections between the cells relax. Due to these changes, the aging skin becomes particularly vulnerable to external influences such as mechanical stress. The skin is more sensitive to external stimuli, dries faster and becomes flaky. Decreased moisture retention and high transepidermal water loss contribute to the enhancement of age-related skin lesions.

For these reasons, consumers want care products that visibly and tangibly improve the condition of the skin over a longer period of time. Particular attention is paid to the characteristics of consumers such as skin moisture and skin smoothness.

It has now been found that by the combination of polylactate particles with specific cosmetic active ingredients skin cosmetic compositions are obtained with a high activity against age-related skin lesions. Corresponding agents strengthen the cell-cell compounds in the epidermis and thus contribute to increased mechanical strength and improved barrier properties of the skin. The application increases the skin moisture and tightens the skin.

• a) Polymilchsäure-Partikel und
• b) mindestens einen Wirkstoff, ausgewählt aus Purin, Purinderivaten und/oder Taurin (2-Aminoethansulfonsäure).

A first subject of this application are cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier

• a) polylactic acid particles and
• b) at least one active ingredient selected from purine, purine derivatives and / or taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

A first essential component of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the polylactic acid particles a). The use of polylactic acid particles in cosmetics is known, for example, from international patent applications WO 2012/177615 A1 and WO 2012/177617 A1 known. The proportion by weight of the polylactic acid particles a) in the total weight of cosmetic compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 to 8% by weight.

Polylactic acid, also called polylactide or PLA, is a term for biodegradable polymers (polyesters), which are mainly accessible by the ionic polymerization of lactide, an annular combination of two lactic acid molecules. At temperatures between 140 and 180 ° C. and the action of catalytic tin compounds (eg tin oxide), a ring-opening polymerization takes place. This produces plastics with a high molecular weight and strength. Lactide itself can be made by fermenting molasses or by fermenting glucose with the help of various bacteria. In addition, high molecular weight and pure polylactides can be produced directly from lactic acid by means of the so-called polycondensation. In industrial production, however, the disposal of the solvent is problematic. The lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) has an asymmetric carbon atom, so that the polylactic acid also has optically active centers in L (+) and D (-) configuration. The ratio of L to D monomer units determines the degree of crystallinity, the melting point and the biodegradability of the polymers.

Polylactic acids suitable according to the invention are L-polylactic acid, D-polylactic acid and L / D-polylactic acid and mixtures thereof. Because of its excellent biodegradability, L-polylactic acid is particularly preferred. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight fraction of L-lactic acid monomer units in the polylactic acid is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 80% by weight and in particular greater than 90% by weight. The molar mass of the polylactic acid suitable according to the invention is preferably from 1000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 300,000, more preferably from 50,000 to 250,000 and in particular from 100,000 to 180,000 daltons.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polylactic acid is used in a form veneered with fillers. The use of larger amounts of filler helps to comminute the polymer into particles, increasing biodegradability and internal specific surface area Porosity and capillarity. In particular, water-soluble fillers are preferred here, for example metal chlorides such as NaCl, KCl, etc, metal carbonates such as Na ₂ CO ₃ , NaHCO ₃ , etc., metal sulfates such as MgSO ₄ .

As fillers and natural raw materials can be used, for example, nut shells, wood or bamboo fibers, starch, xanthan gum, alginates, dextran, agar, etc. These fillers are biodegradable and do not degrade the good ecological properties of polylactic acid particles. Usually, the content of biodegradable fillers in the polylactic acid particles can be from 10 to 70% by weight, with amounts of from 20 to 60 being preferred, and those of from 30 to 50% by weight being particularly preferred.

Polylactic acid particles which are suitable according to the invention can be present both in spherical form and as irregular particles which have a certain circularity. It is believed that irregular shapes can enhance the abrasive action of the polylactic acid particles, therefore, for some embodiments of the present invention, it may be advantageous for the polylactic acid particles to preferably have a circularity between 0.1 and 0.6. On the other hand, polylactic acid particles of lower circularity may be preferred if a less abrasive, gentler abrasive action of the cleaning agent according to the invention is to be achieved.

The shape of the polylactic acid particles used according to the invention can be defined in various ways, in the context of this preferred embodiment of the present invention, the geometric proportions of a particle and - pragmatic - a particle population are determined.

Highly accurate newer methods allow the accurate determination of particle shapes from a large number of particles, usually more than 10,000 particles, preferably more than 100,000 particles. These methods allow accurate selection of the average particle shape of a particle population. The particle shapes are preferably determined using an "Occhio Nano 500 Particle Characterization Instrument" with the software "Callistro version 25" (Occhio, supra, Liege, Belgium). This instrument enables the preparation, dispersion, imaging and analysis of a particle population, preferably setting the device parameters as follows: White Requested = 180, Vacuum Time = 5000ms, Sedimentation Time = 5000ms, Automatic Threshold, Number of Particle Counted / Analyzes = 8000 500000, minimum number of replicates / sample = 3, lens setting lx / 1.5x.

The polylactic acid particles used according to the invention preferably have sizes which are characterized by their area equivalent diameter (FIG. ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 7 ) also called "Equivalent Circle Diameter ECD" ( ASTM F1877-05 Section 11.3.2 ) To be defined. The mean ECD of a particle population is calculated as the average ECD of each particle of a particle population of at least 10,000 particles, preferably more than 50,000 particles, more preferably more than 100,000 particles, after particles of area equivalent diameter (ECD) less than 10 μm from the particle size Measurement were excluded. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polylactic acid particles have average ECD values of from 10 to 1000 μm, preferably from 50 to 500 μm, more preferably from 100 to 350 μm and in particular from 150 to 250 μm.

Regardless of the average particle size, cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the polylactic acid particles have absolute particle sizes of from 1 to 1000 μm, more preferably from 1 to 850 μm, particularly preferably from 1 to 750 μm, exceptionally preferably from 1 to 500 μm and in particular preferably from 1 to 300 .mu.m.

In the context of the present invention, form descriptors are used, which are calculations from geometric descriptors or form factors. Form factors are relationships between two different geometric properties, which in turn are a measure of the proportions of the image of an entire particle or the measurement of the proportions of an ideal geometric body enclosing the particle.

These results are descriptors that are similar to aspect ratios. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, meso-form descriptors are used for particle characterization. These meso shape descriptors indicate to what extent a particle deviates from an ideal geometric shape, in particular from a sphere.

In a first preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polylactic acid particles can deviate from the typical spherical shape or sphere-like shapes such as granule particles (see above). In this case, the particles preferably have sharp corners and edges and have preferably concave indentations. Sharp corners of non-spherical particles can be defined by a radius below 20 μm, preferably below 8 μm and in particular below 5 μm, wherein the radius is defined as the radius of an imaginary circle following the contour of the corner.

Circularity is a quantitative, 2-dimensional image analysis and can according to ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 8.2 be determined. Circularity is a preferred meso-form descriptor and can be determined, for example, with the "Occhio Nano 500 Particle Characterization Instrument" described above with the "Callistro version 25" software (Occhio sa Liege, Belgium) or with the "Malvern Morphologi G3". Circularity is sometimes described in the literature as the difference between a particle and the perfect sphere. The values for circularity vary between 0 and 1, where 1 describes the perfect sphere or (in the two-dimensional image) the perfect circle: C = [(4πA (/ p ² ] ^1/2 where A is the projection area (the two-dimensional descriptor) and p is the length of the perimeter of the particle.

Within this preferred embodiment, polylactic acid particles having an average circularity C of from 0.1 to 0.6, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4, and in particular from 0.2 to 0.35, have been described in the context of the present invention proved particularly suitable. Here, the mean values are obtained by quotient formation from volume-based measurements and number-based measurements.

Solidity is a quantitative, 2-dimensional image analysis and can be used according to ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 8.2 be determined. Solidity is also a preferred meso-form descriptor and can be determined, for example, with the "Occhio Nano 500 Particle Characterization Instrument" described above using the "Callistro version 25" software (Occhio sa Liege, Belgium) or the "Malvern Morphologi G3". Solidity is a meso-form descriptor that describes the concavity of a particle or particle aggregate. The values for solidity vary between 0 and 1, where 1 describes a non-concave particle: Solidity = A / Ac where A is the (image) area of the particle and Ac is the area of the convex hull enclosing the particle.

Within the first preferred embodiment, polylactic acid particles having an average solidity of from 0.4 to 0.9, preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 and especially from 0.55 to 0.65, have been found to be particularly useful in the present invention proved. Here, the mean values are obtained by quotient formation from volume-based measurements and number-based measurements.

Particularly preferred polylactic acid particles of the first preferred embodiment preferably have an average circularity C of from 0.1 to 0.6, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4 and in particular from 0.2 to 0.35 and an average solidity of 0, 4 to 0.9, preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 and in particular from 0.55 to 0.65.

The "mean" circularities and solidities are averages from the measurement of a large number of particles, usually more than 10,000 particles, preferably more than 50,000 particles, and especially more than 100,000 particles, with particles of area equivalent diameter (ECD) below 10 microns were excluded from the measurement.

After its preparation, the polylactic acid polymer can be converted to the desired particle size and shape, for example by milling, depending on which mold is needed for which purpose. A particularly preferred method of making polylactic acid particles of desired circularity and solidity is to produce a foam of polylactic acid followed by milling.

It is believed that a certain hardness may enhance the abrasive action of the polylactic acid particles, therefore, for some embodiments of the present invention, it may further be advantageous for the polylactic acid particles to cure from 3 to 50 kg / mm ² , preferably from 4 to 25 kg / mm ² and especially from 5 to 15 kg / mm ² on the HV Vickers hardness scale. The hardness of the particles can be varied by the ratio of D to L monomers and the molecular weight.

Polylactic acid particles that can be used with preference in the inventive cleaning compositions are commercially available (for example, by the company Micro Powders, Inc. under the trade names Ecosrub ^®). Particularly preferred are the commercial products Ecosrub ^® 20PC, 50PC Ecosrub ^®, Ecosrub ^® 100PC, Ecoblue ^® 5025 and Ecogreen ^® 5025. Particularly preferred Ecosrub ^® 20PC and Ecosrub ^® 50PC are.

As a second essential ingredient, the compositions of the invention contain at least one active ingredient b) selected from purine, purine derivatives and / or taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). The proportion by weight of the active substance b) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt .-%.

• a) 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,75 bis 10 Gew.-% und insbesondere 1 bis 8 Gew.-% Polymilchsäure-Partikel, und
• b) 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,05 bis 3 Gew.-% Purin, Purinderivate und/oder Taurin (2-Aminoethansulfonsäure) enthalten.

Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight -

• a) 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.75 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 8 wt .-% polylactic acid particles, and
• b) 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-% purine, purine derivatives and / or taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Purine and / or purine derivative (s) are, in each case based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably used 0.1 to 1.5 wt .-%.

wobei die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -OH, -NH₂, -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -CH₃ und -CH₂-CH₃. The agents preferably contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)

wherein the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ .

Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

• – Purin (R¹ = R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Adenin (R¹ = NH₂, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Guanin (R¹ = OH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Harnsäure (R¹ = R² = R³ = OH, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Hypoxanthin (R¹ = OH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Purinthiol (R¹ = SH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Thioguanin (R¹ = SH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Xanthin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Coffein (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = H, R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theophyllin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = CH₃, R⁵ = CH₃, R⁶ = H)

Suitable compounds of the formula (I) are in particular:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Purine derivatives of the formula (I) wherein R ¹ and R ^{2 are} -OH and R ^{3 is} -H are also referred to as xanthine and / or xanthine derivatives. The agents according to the invention preferably contain, as purine derivatives, xanthine and / or xanthine derivatives.

Furthermore, preference is given to those compounds of the formula (I) in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H and -CH ₃ .

• – Xanthin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Coffein (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = H, R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theophyllin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = CH₃, R⁵ = CH₃, R⁶ = H).

Particularly preferred compounds of the formula (I) are:

• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

With very particular preference the agents according to the invention contain caffeine as purine and / or purine derivative.

Of course, the agents of the invention may also contain several components selected from purine and purine derivatives, again preferred combinations containing caffeine.

Taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid) is, in each case based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3, 0 wt .-% and particularly preferably used 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as active ingredient b) a mixture of purine and / or purine derivatives and taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). It is particularly preferred to use as active ingredient b) a mixture of caffeine and taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

The compositions according to the invention contain the active ingredient combination a) and b) in a suitable cosmetic carrier. This is preferably understood to mean a topical carrier which is preferably an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. Preferably, the support contains - based on its total weight - at least 20 wt .-%, more preferably at least 25 wt .-%, more preferably at least 30 wt .-% and in particular at least 35 wt .-% water. Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized by a water content between 30 and 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 90 wt .-%, particularly preferably 60 to 85 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 85 wt .-%.

Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier may contain from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 35% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 30% by weight, of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol. Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols. Preference is given to the water-soluble alcohols. Particularly preferred are ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, and / or 1,6-hexanediol and mixtures of these alcohols. Particularly preferred are glycerol and / or 1,6-hexanediol.

The use of polyols has proven to be particularly advantageous for the cosmetic effect of the compositions according to the invention. Preferred cosmetic compositions contain 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, and in particular 2 to 8 wt .-% of at least one polyol selected from Glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, wherein the amounts are based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions.

Particularly suitable emulsions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one further skin-conditioning active ingredient c) and / or at least one emulsifier d) in addition to the active ingredients already described.

Suitable skin-conditioning active ingredients c) are preferably those substances which are absorbed on keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.

Preferred skin conditioning agents c) can be selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, Wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, e.g. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, particularly linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms, which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C _{6 30-} fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol diol or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated with 1-10, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides gesaettigter and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, shea butter, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and silicone polymers, which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes having the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or Trimethylsilylamodimethicone. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain a mixture of skin conditioning agents from the aforementioned list.

The amount used of the skin-conditioning active ingredients c) in the compositions according to the invention is preferably 1.0 to 50% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 2.0 to 20% by weight and in particular 2.0 to 10% by weight of at least one skin-conditioning agent c), the quantities given being based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions.

Suitable surface-active substances and / or emulsifiers d) are, for example, adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, with C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and with C ₈ -C _15- alkylphenols, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ polyols, in particular glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides , C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component, for example those which are less than those listed under INCI. Description Coco glucoside known product, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. For example, the commercially available products Montanov ^® 68 and Montanov 202 ^®, addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols (sterols) , in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

Particularly preferred is the use of nonethoxylated anionic O / W emulsifiers. A particularly preferred O / W emulsifier system according to the invention comprises a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate with hardened palm oil glycerides. A corresponding mixture is obtainable from Symrise as a commercial product "Emulsiphos 677660" (INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) .Preferred compositions of the invention contain, based on their total weight, 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1.5 wt .-% of a nonethoxylated anionic O / W emulsifier, preferably a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate with hardened palm oil glycerides.

The compositions according to the invention may contain the emulsifiers d) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition , contain.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one skin-soothing agent e). Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. B. sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil", as z , B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, as described for. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) are available from Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten as z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, in particular phycosaccharides AI, are available from the company Codif, extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as described, for. B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as described, for. B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as described, for , B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

The skin-calming active ingredients e) are preferably in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Other suitable additives according to the invention preferred emulsions and / or aqueous gels are thickeners, for. As anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsaeure, wherein the acidic groups may be wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt and at least one may be included nonionic monomer. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305, Simulgel ^® 600, Simulgel ^® and Simulgel EPG ^® of the company SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the can be crosslinked aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol and 3,4-didehydroretinol. Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include:
Vitamin B-1 (thiamine)
Vitamin B-2 (riboflavin)
Vitamin B-3: Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin B-5: (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives For example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
Vitamin B-6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). The said compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B-3, B-5 and B-6, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially .alpha.-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and / or H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably characterized by a high content of natural and / or biodegradable ingredients. Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain 40 to 100 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 99 wt .-%, particularly preferably 50 to 97 wt .-% and in particular 60 to 95 wt .-% of active ingredients, of natural origin are and / or are biodegradable, the amounts being based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions without the aqueous and alcoholic solvents contained in these compositions.

The composition of some preferred cosmetic compositions can be found in the following tables (data in% by weight based on the total weight of the cleaning agent, unless stated otherwise). formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.005 to 7.5 0.01 to 5.0 0.05 to 3.0 0.05 to 3.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Formula 9 Formula 10 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 11 Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 16 Formula 17 Formula 18 Formula 19 Formula 20 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.005 to 7.5 0.01 to 5.0 0.05 to 3.0 0.05 to 3.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 21 Formula 22 Formula 23 Formula 24 Formula 25 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 31 Formula 32 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0 Esteröl 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0 polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43 Formula 44 Formula 45 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 46 Formula 47 Formula 48 Formula 49 Formula 50 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 51 Formula 52 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0 glycerin 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 56 Formula 57 Formula 58 Formula 59 Formula 60 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.005 to 7.5 0.01 to 5.0 0.05 to 3.0 0.05 to 3.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 61 Formula 62 Formula 63 Formula 64 Formula 65 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 66 Formula 67 Formula 68 Formula 69 Formula 70 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 71 Formula 72 Formula 73 Formula 74 Formula 75 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0 Esteröl 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 76 Formula 77 Formula 78 Formula 79 Formula 80 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Active substance b) 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) glycerin 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 81 Formula 82 Formula 83 Formula 84 Formula 85 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 Esteröl 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 86 Formula 87 Formula 88 Formula 89 Formula 90 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 Esteröl 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 91 Formula 92 Formula 93 Formula 94 Formula 95 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 Esteröl 1.0 b is 50 1.0 bi s 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 glycerin 0.1 b is 20 0.5 bi s 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 96 Formula 97 Formula 98 Formula 99 Formula 100 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 Esteröl 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 glycerin 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 101 Formula 102 Formula 103 Formula 104 Formula 105 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 106 Formula 107 Formula 108 Formula 109 Formula 110 Polymilchsäurepartikel 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.0 to 8.0 Purine / purine derivative 0.001 to 5.0 0.001 to 3.0 0.01 to 2.0 0.01 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.5 taurine 0.001 to 5.0 0.01 to 4.0 0.1 to 3.0 0.2 to 3.0 0.2 to 2.0 skin conditioning 1.0 to 50 1.0 to 30 2.0 to 20 2.0 to 15 2.0 to 10 Active ingredient c) glycerin 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

• – zur Straffung der Haut,
• – zur Erhöhung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und/oder
• – zur Verbesserung des Hautbildes.

As stated at the outset, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are distinguished by an unexpected nourishing and regenerating action. Another object of the present application is therefore the use of inventive compositions for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of human skin, in particular

• - to tighten the skin,
• - To increase skin moisture and / or
• - to improve the appearance of the skin.

Another object of the present application is a non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of the human skin, in particular for tightening the skin, to increase the skin moisture and / or to improve the appearance of the skin, characterized in that a composition of the invention to the Skin is applied. The compositions according to the invention can remain on the skin after the application ("leave on") or be removed from the skin after a contact time ("rinse off"). The contact time of the latter products is preferably between 10 and 600 seconds, preferably between 20 and 420 seconds and in particular between 30 and 300 seconds.

Examples

The following skin creams were prepared (in% by weight): formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Emulsiphos ^® 677660 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cutina ^® MD 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetiol ^® A 2.0 2.0 2.0 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2.0 2.0 2.0 Vitamin E Acetates 0.05 0.05 0.05 water 74.6 74.7 75.6 glycerol 5.0 5.0 5.0 Sorbitol 70% 3.0 3.0 3.0 Taurine 1.0 1.0 - Caffeine anhydrous 0.1 - 0.1 Tego Carbomer ^140® 0.3 0.3 0.3 Al Starch Octenylsuccinate 1.0 1.0 1.0 D-panthenol 75% 0.1 0.1 0.1 Hydrovance ^® 3.0 3.0 3.0 Phenonip ME ^® 1.0 1.0 1.0 Ecoscrub ^® 50PC 4.0 4.0 4.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 water 73.2 73.7 74.2 D-panthenol 75% 0.7 0.7 0.7 Propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 glycerol 5.0 5.0 5.0 Fucocert ^® 1.0 1.0 1.0 Taurine 1.0 1.0 - Caffeine anhydrous 0.5 - 0.5 Tego Carbomer ^140® 0.75 0.75 0.75 Dimethicone 5 cSt 2.5 2.5 2.5 Dow Corning ^® 9041 0.5 0.5 0.5 Vitamin E Acetates 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phenonip ME ^® 1.0 1.0 1.0 Talc 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ginseng Extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 ethanol 5.0 5.0 5.0 Ecoscrub ^® 50PC 4.0 4.0 4.0 Misc add 100 add 100 add 100

In the above tables, the following commercial products were used:
Emulsiphos ^® 677 660 (INCI name: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides), Symrise; Cutina ^® MD (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate), BASF; Cetiol ^® A (INCI name: Hexyl Laurate), BASF; Tego Carbomer 140 (INCI name: Carbomer), Evonik; Hydro Vance ^® (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Urea), Akzo Nobel; Ecoscrub ^® 50PC (INCI name: Polylactic Acid), Micro Powders, Inc .; Fucocert ^® (INCI name: Biosaccharide Gum-1), Solabia; Dimethicone 5 cSt (INCI name: Dimethicone), Dow Corning; Dow Corning ^® 9041 (INCI name: Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer), Dow Corning; Phenonip ME ^® (INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben) Clariant.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 2012/177615 A1 [0006]
• WO 2012/177617 A1 [0006]

Cited non-patent literature

• ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 7 [0014]
• ASTM F1877-05 Section 11.3.2 [0014]
• ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 8.2 [0019]
• ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 8.2 [0021]

Claims (10)

 Cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) polylactic acid particles and b) at least one active ingredient selected from purine, purine derivatives and / or taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). Cosmetic compositions according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polylactic acid particles have absolute particle sizes in the range from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 750 μm, more preferably from 1 to 500 μm and exceptionally preferably from 1 to 300 μm. Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, a) from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 8 wt .-% polylactic acid particles, and b) 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt. % and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-% purine, purine derivatives and / or taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain as active ingredient b) a mixture of purine and / or purine derivatives and taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred: - purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - 6 purine thiol (R ¹ = SH , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ ) - theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) - theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H). Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain as active ingredient b) a mixture of caffeine and taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they additionally contain 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, and in particular 2 to 8 wt .-% of at least one polyol selected from glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, sorbitol, wherein the amounts are based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they additionally 1 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 50 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 30 wt. % of at least one skin conditioning agent c), wherein the amounts are based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions.  Use of compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of human skin, in particular - to tighten the skin, - To increase skin moisture and / or - to improve the appearance of the skin. Non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of the human skin, in particular for tightening the skin, for increasing the skin moisture and / or for improving the appearance of the skin, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 applied to the skin becomes.