EP2882416A2 - Single-phase transparent hair gel - Google Patents
Single-phase transparent hair gelInfo
- Publication number
- EP2882416A2 EP2882416A2 EP13737572.1A EP13737572A EP2882416A2 EP 2882416 A2 EP2882416 A2 EP 2882416A2 EP 13737572 A EP13737572 A EP 13737572A EP 2882416 A2 EP2882416 A2 EP 2882416A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- cationic
- alkyl
- oil
- carbon atoms
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 93
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 86
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- -1 halide ions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 81
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 50
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 claims description 46
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 45
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 36
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 31
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 claims description 29
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 claims description 29
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 22
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 21
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000003531 protein hydrolysate Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 230000003766 combability Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 108010009736 Protein Hydrolysates Proteins 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 claims description 10
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 claims description 10
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 9
- 229960004063 propylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-butenedioic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC(O)=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 7
- KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Fluoride anion Chemical compound [F-] KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 7
- XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen iodide Chemical compound I XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940015975 1,2-hexanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940043375 1,5-pentanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- ALQSHHUCVQOPAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pentane-1,5-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCO ALQSHHUCVQOPAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)CO FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,6-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCCO XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UPHRSURJSA-N maleic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)\C=C/C(O)=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UPHRSURJSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K Citrate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 4
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Lactate Chemical compound CC(O)C([O-])=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oxalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(O)=O MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000001449 anionic compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000484 butyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003581 cosmetic carrier Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-OWOJBTEDSA-L fumarate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)\C=C\C([O-])=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-OWOJBTEDSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910001412 inorganic anion Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000005985 organic acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000002891 organic anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940095064 tartrate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,2-dioxathietane 2,2-dioxide Chemical compound O=S1(=O)OCO1 QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000001767 cationic compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000003760 hair shine Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical class [H]* 0.000 claims description 3
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-M hydrogensulfate Chemical compound OS([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000959 isobutyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000003741 hair volume Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-L L-tartrate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-L 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 abstract description 11
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 10
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 37
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 35
- KDCGOANMDULRCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 7H-purine Chemical compound N1=CNC2=NC=NC2=C1 KDCGOANMDULRCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 33
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 33
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 33
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 33
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 31
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 26
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 25
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 22
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 18
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 16
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 16
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N oleyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 15
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 14
- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical compound NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 229940060184 oil ingredients Drugs 0.000 description 13
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 13
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 11
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 10
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N all-trans-retinol Chemical compound OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 10
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 10
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N (+)-Biotin Chemical compound N1C(=O)N[C@@H]2[C@H](CCCCC(=O)O)SC[C@@H]21 YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N 0.000 description 8
- KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-Octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 244000007835 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba Species 0.000 description 8
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 8
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N nicotinic acid amide Natural products NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- GOOHAUXETOMSMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene oxide Chemical group CC1CO1 GOOHAUXETOMSMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 7
- ZSIAUFGUXNUGDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCO ZSIAUFGUXNUGDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 150000002431 hydrogen Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 7
- 150000003856 quaternary ammonium compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 7
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 6
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N D-panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 6
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000013065 commercial product Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 6
- LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 description 6
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 235000020957 pantothenol Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 6
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 5
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O ammonium group Chemical group [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 5
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 5
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 5
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229940101267 panthenol Drugs 0.000 description 5
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- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- PLFFHJWXOGYWPR-HEDMGYOXSA-N (4r)-4-[(3r,3as,5ar,5br,7as,11as,11br,13ar,13bs)-5a,5b,8,8,11a,13b-hexamethyl-1,2,3,3a,4,5,6,7,7a,9,10,11,11b,12,13,13a-hexadecahydrocyclopenta[a]chrysen-3-yl]pentan-1-ol Chemical compound C([C@]1(C)[C@H]2CC[C@H]34)CCC(C)(C)[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(C)[C@]4(C)CC[C@@H]1[C@]3(C)CC[C@@H]1[C@@H](CCCO)C PLFFHJWXOGYWPR-HEDMGYOXSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000004178 (C1-C4) alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N (D)-(+)-Pantothenic acid Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC(O)=O GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 4
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- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 125000002511 behenyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- JBIROUFYLSSYDX-UHFFFAOYSA-M benzododecinium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 JBIROUFYLSSYDX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-D-Pyranose-Lyxose Natural products OC1COC(O)C(O)C1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 239000011616 biotin Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 3
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 150000001805 chlorine compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000006471 dimerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
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- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
Definitions
- the invention relates to monophasic, transparent, hair conditioning gels comprising a cationic polymer, a polyhydroxy compound and a cationic surfactant and / or an amine in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the use of the hair care composition, and a method of hair care using the composition and a method for the preparation of the agent.
- the hair can be damaged by the treatment / stress both externally and in its structure, which gives them an unattractive appearance, which is characterized by lack of smoothness and softness, lack of shine, but also by a poor combability, Hair breakage or split ends can be noticeable.
- the hair has long been customary to subject the hair to a special post-treatment to supply the hair and the scalp care substances that give the hair back a nice appearance and strengthen the hair structure, and maintain the scalp and protect from drying out.
- the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
- this treatment can improve the combability, the hold, the fullness and the shine of the hair.
- silicone oils and / or vegetable fats or oils are incorporated into hair cosmetic compositions as active ingredients, one usually obtains at least two- or multi-phase formulations. This is all the more noticeable, the higher the content of silicone oils and / or vegetable fats and oils in the compositions.
- These two-phase systems must be converted by the consumer by vigorous shaking into a stable only for a short time single-phase system before use. Even with proper use of these products then a good product performance on the hair is not always given, for example, by shaking too briefly can not always ensure a uniform distribution of the active ingredients. It may happen in such cases that instead of the required amount of the active ingredients, more "carrier substance" gets onto the hair when using the hair conditioning agent, as a result of which the conditioning effect decreases. At the same time, the hair conditioning agent becomes more concentrated after each use in such an improper use, and over a certain amount can even over-conditioning, making the hair become heavy.
- the object of the present invention was therefore to produce a stable, clear and single-phase hair conditioner which cares for the hair and increases the combability of the hair and its gloss.
- the hair conditioning agents should nevertheless have a comparatively low viscosity and, in the case of a higher viscosity, a low yield point in order to be readily dispersible on the hair surface.
- a further object of the invention was to produce a stable, clear and single-phase hair conditioning agent that allows the incorporation of higher amounts of oil components - in particular silicones and / or vegetable oils, without affecting the single-phase or the desired viscosity.
- Another object of the invention was that not only the entire hair composite but even the individual hair fiber from the approach to the tip looks uniformly and shiny and has a pleasant tactile feel.
- the entire composition is very evenly distributed on the hair.
- the gel of the present invention though having the typical gel-like stability, is very easy and pleasant to dispense with the fingers on the hair and even on a single fiber without the application of force.
- a first aspect of the present invention is therefore a gel-form, single-phase, transparent hair conditioning agent containing
- a cationic polymer consisting of at least one monomer of the formula (I) and, if appropriate, of a monomer of the formula (II)
- R1 to R9 are independently hydrogen, C-i_ 4 - alkyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R6, R7, R8 or R 9 is C 1-4 -alkyl, n is an integer from 1 to 8, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, such as halide, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, hydrogensulfate or methosulfate,
- radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, and
- combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.
- the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective.
- the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
- the hair treatment agent according to the invention must have a viscosity of at least 15,000 mPas and not more than 50,000 mPas, preferably not more than 30,000 mPas and in particular not more than 25,000 mPas and more preferably 20,000 mPas (measured using a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 4 at 20 rpm). 20 s) and at 20 ° C).
- the hair conditioning composition according to the invention is applied optionally on wet or dry hair, preferably after hair cleansing. Subsequently, the hair is designed as usual to a hairstyle. It may be helpful to use a hair dryer, a straightener or at least a comb.
- a suitable cosmetic carrier d) for the hair conditioning agents according to the invention is preferably aqueous and / or aqueous / alcoholic. It preferably contains at least 20% by weight of water.
- aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers comprise aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-butyl Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol and iso-hexanols to understand.
- compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol or ethyl diglycol.
- the hair conditioning agents contain - based on their total weight - at least 20 wt .-%, preferably at least 25 wt .-%, more preferably at least 30 wt .-% and in particular at least 35 wt .-% and in the According to the invention best embodiment at least 40 wt.% Of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
- the agents according to the invention contain at least one cationic polymer.
- the cationic polymer is in this case composed of at least one monomer of the formula (I) and, if appropriate, of a monomer of the formula (II),
- R 1 to R 9 independently of one another are hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl and with the proviso that at least one of the R6, R7, R8 or R9 is C1-C4 alkyl, n is an integer from 1 to 8 and A is a physiologically acceptable anion such as halide, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, hydrogen sulfate or methosulfate.
- R 1 is hydrogen or a methyl group, more preferably R 1 is a methyl group.
- R 2 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, more preferably R 2 is hydrogen.
- R3, R4 and R5 are independently hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl group. More preferably, R3, R4 and R5 are the same and most preferably methyl.
- the number n is preferably integer from 1 to 7, more preferably from 1 to 5, most preferably 1, 2, 3 or 4 and most preferably 2.
- R6 is preferably hydrogen or methyl.
- R7 is preferred Hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl.
- R 8 and R 9 are preferably identical and stand for hydrogen, methyl or C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, particularly preferably hydrogen or methyl.
- a cationic polymer according to the invention consists of from 20 to 95% by weight of the monomer (I) and from 5 to 50% by weight of the monomer (II). Preferably, the monomer (I) to 40 to 90 wt.% And the monomer (II) to 10 to 40 wt.% Contained.
- the cationic polymer of the formulas (I) and (II) according to the invention is particularly preferably a homopolymer of monomers of the formula (I).
- the cationic polymer according to the invention may be crosslinked.
- the crosslinking by the usual cross-linking agent such as allyl acrylamide, allyl methacrylamide, tetraallylammonium or ⁇ , ⁇ 'is effected up to 500 ppm methylene bis-acrylamide in amounts.
- the cationic polymer is present as a powder in pure substance. Further additives such as solvents, adjusting agents, etc. are not included in the cationic polymers used according to the invention.
- Cationic polymers of the invention are obtainable, for example, from a monomer of the formula (I) and acrylamide. These are, for example, products sold under the trade names Hercofloc® 812 (Hercules), BINA® Quat P100 (Ciba or BASF), Reten® types (Hercules), Salcare® SC63 (Ciba or BASF) Rohagit KF 720F (Rohm GmbH, Evonik).
- Highly preferred cationic polymers according to the invention are homopolymers of the monomers of the formula (I), for example the products with the INCI names Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-45, Quaternium-49 and most preferably the commercial product Rheocare® Ultragel ( Polyquaternium-37).
- the cationic polymer of the present invention is used in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the entire composition. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight.
- the second mandatory ingredient is a cationic imidazole derivative.
- the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
- the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
- the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
- A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of general formula RSO 3 - , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids, such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
- Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-27 and quaternium-91 are highly preferred according to the invention.
- the cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat2) according to the invention is used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight.
- Ingredient c) is at least one polyhydroxy compound.
- This polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol and / or glycerol and / or 1, 2-pentanediol and / or 1, 5-pentanediol and / or 1, 2-hexanediol and / or 1, 6-hexanediol and / or mixtures thereof.
- the clarity of the compositions according to the invention is produced exclusively by the polyhydroxy compounds. For this purpose, it is further necessary to use the polyhydroxy compounds in a very limited quantity. For smaller or larger amounts no clear compositions are obtained.
- glycol is meant 1, 2-ethylene glycol.
- a polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 1, 3-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, the best results are obtained when the polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol and glycerol and mixtures thereof.
- a second subject of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising a composition according to claim 1.
- the process according to the invention for the preparation of clear gels from ingredients a) to d) according to the invention comprises the following process steps, which must be run in the order according to the invention ,
- First, the inventive cationic polymer according to a) is pre-swollen in water at a temperature of 15 to 50 ° C.
- the cationic surfactant b) is added with stirring.
- the composition looks milky and cloudy.
- the pH of the composition is adjusted to a slightly acidic pH with customary acids or optionally bases of about pH 4 to 5. Furthermore, further optional ingredients may be added at this point.
- the polyhydroxy compound is added with stirring. Finally, the pH of the composition is again adjusted to the desired value between 2 and 6.5. Only by the addition of the polyhydroxy compound c) with stirring on the one hand, the clarity of the invention and on the other hand, the inventive Gel structure and its viscosity. The viscosity is measured as described previously according to Brookfield at 25 ° C. The clarity or transparency is on the one hand determined visually. For this purpose, a font located immediately behind it with the character Arial in size 10 is read through the composition contained in a conventional 250 ml beaker.
- a further possibility for determining the clarity of the compositions according to the invention is to determine the turbidity or permeability of the composition according to DIN / EN 27027 (ISO 7027) as transmitted-light turbidity measurement. As a result, the transparency is obtained as a percentage of the transmission.
- the compositions of the invention are minimally milky or opaque to clear. The transparency is between 50 and 100%.
- the further optional ingredients must also fulfill a condition. These must be able to be solved clearly in water in a concentration of 0, 1%.
- hair treatment compositions of the invention contain quaternary ammonium compounds in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%.
- Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, even further preferably 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, still more preferably 1, 0 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-% quaternary ammonium compounds.
- Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From these many possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have been found to be particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.
- Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group.
- radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
- the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
- branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
- aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
- the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
- n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
- hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
- Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
- R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
- R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
- anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
- Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
- the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
- R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
- esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
- Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) can also be used.
- R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted.
- A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
- compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
- R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
- R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
- hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
- A is an anion as previously described and
- n is an integer between 1 and 10.
- R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
- amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen.
- the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
- the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
- Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
- ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride.
- niumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid preferably have 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
- quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.
- the cationic polymers mentioned here are not identical to the obligatory cationic polymers according to the invention. Rather, these cationic polymers can additionally be used.
- the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
- Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
- the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- Suitable cationic polymers other than a) may be homopolymers or copolymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
- Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
- the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).
- cationic polymers for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable.
- cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.
- a suitable cationic polymer derived from synthetic polymers is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
- Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a R b R c A "
- G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
- B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
- R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
- a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
- Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
- Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethyl cellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72.
- Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
- cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®.
- Other commercial products the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L are 200.
- Mirustyle CP ® of the company Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before.
- Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
- Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
- Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
- a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
- a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
- Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
- cationic polymers based on sugars can also be used according to the invention with preference.
- Such compounds are, for example, cationic alkyl oligoglucosides as shown in the following figure.
- the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
- the radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same.
- the radicals R1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
- the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides described above can be prepared, for example, from customary alkyl oligoglucosides.
- the Alkyloligoglucoside be implemented in this case by conventional methods to quaternary ammonium compounds.
- the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be known nonionic surfactants. These sugar surfactants are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),
- R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p is a number from 1 to 10.
- the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
- the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
- the index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 30.
- the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 20.0.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 30, preferably 6 to 24, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
- Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and technical mixtures of and with these alcohols.
- the quaternization of the alkyloligoglucosides can be carried out, for example, with quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halide.
- quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halide.
- the chain length of the alkyl group is preferably 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
- cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds with the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.
- Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
- the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
- mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.
- Another cationic polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine.
- the polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.
- This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.
- the polyquaternium-71 is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in Amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
- Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
- honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
- polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid Under the names Merquat ® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI - designation Polyquaternium-7, Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
- vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,
- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
- Amphoteric polymers of the invention are those polymers in which a cationic
- R -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A (_) (monol)
- R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ⁇ _) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
- R 6 and R 7 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
- R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
- R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
- acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
- Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
- amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
- amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer
- R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (Cr to C 8 ) -alkyl group.
- Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
- amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
- the abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
- the hair conditioning agents additionally contain from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 12% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 10% by weight, of at least one oil to further increase hair care , Wax and / or fat component. This gives the hair improved combability and serves as an extremely effective moisturizing agent.
- Oil, wax and / or fat components which are suitable according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
- natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used.
- Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, Hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter. Almond oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter are particularly preferred.
- the vegetable oils can be used both individually and as a mixture of several oils in the
- mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
- An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
- Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
- Silicones suitable according to the invention are selected from:
- polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
- grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers to which have been grafted non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;
- oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
- Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether.
- n-undecyl ether di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and Di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.
- di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
- the effect of the active compound combination according to the invention can be further optimized by further fatty substances.
- Other fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
- the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
- fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
- Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
- the amount used is 0, 1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.
- fatty alcohols can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably Ci 0 - C 2 2- and very particularly preferably C-12 - C22 carbon atoms.
- Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
- the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
- those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
- Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
- wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
- the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0, 1-3 wt .-%.
- the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
- Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
- fatty substances are, for example
- Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
- the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
- Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
- fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol and Brassidylalkohol as well as their technical mixtures, which eg in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters on basis of fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis as well as Monomerfrtress with the dimerization of uns
- isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
- isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
- 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
- stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
- cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
- Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
- n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
- isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
- oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
- hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
- di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
- diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
- ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
- the amount used of other fatty substances is 0, 1 - 20 wt .-% based on the total agent. Preference is given to 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably 0 to 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total agent.
- hair conditioning compositions according to the invention which contain as further hair conditioning component d) at least one silicone oil - preferably a dimethicone - and / or at least one vegetable oil.
- These oils can be incorporated into the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention individually or as a mixture in an amount of up to 15% by weight, without the single phase and / or the stability of the compositions suffering therefrom.
- the required viscosity of the means for spray application is achieved despite the high content of the aforementioned preferred hair conditioning oils.
- Vitamins are indispensable for the health of the skin and hair. Since they have a beneficial effect even when used externally, they are often added to cosmetic preparations. It has been found that the polymer according to the invention a) in the hair conditioning agents in addition to the deposition of the components b) and d) on the hair and the deposition of other care substances - as well as vitamins - can stimulate.
- preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof are those representatives which are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
- vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
- the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
- Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
- Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
- Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
- Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
- the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
- Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
- Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
- Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
- Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
- Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred and are added to the hair conditioning agents according to the invention either individually or in their combination ,
- compositions of the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives, because they support the strengthening of the hair structure and prevent the hair from drying out.
- protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
- Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
- Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
- protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
- pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
- keratin, silk, milk protein, wheat and / or soy protein hydrolysates in the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention.
- keratin and / or wheat protein hydrolysates are particularly preferred.
- the protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions in amounts of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and most preferably in amounts, based on their total weight from 0.05% to 5% by weight.
- An optional but preferred further component for stabilizing the hair conditioning agents according to the invention is a nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier.
- Nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers are the hair conditioning agents according to the invention - by weight - individually or in combination in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% added.
- suitable nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
- Such compounds are, for example
- Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
- R 4 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 5 is hydrogen or methyl
- R 6 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- w is a number from 1 to 20 stands
- the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to Starting compounds or according to the respective workup of these compounds. Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R
- Ci 6 to Ci 8 alkyl groups consisting essentially of Ci 6 to Ci 8 alkyl groups.
- sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
- sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
- Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
- Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
- alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
- alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
- both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
- "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
- nonionic surfactants are alkylpolyglucosides and alkylene oxide adducts of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent mild properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
- Emulsifiers suitable according to the invention are, for example
- Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
- Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
- Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
- glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
- Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
- Polyglycerols and Polyglycennderivate such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
- Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
- the emulsifiers are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight.
- Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
- Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
- Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
- Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
- the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- the polymers are preferably contained in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
- compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
- the sodium salt is most preferred.
- the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
- Ayurvedic plant extracts are used as plant extracts.
- Traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala).
- the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine.
- Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges.
- inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
- purine the purines and the purine derivatives, the following compounds are preferred according to the invention: purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline.
- Caffeine has proven particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 0.25 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the composition) can be.
- taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine.
- the derivatives of taurine are understood as meaning N-monomethyltaurine and ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine.
- Other taurine derivatives also include taurines, which naturally occur as metabolites in plant and / or animal and / or marine organisms. These include, for example, although not preferred, degradation products of cysteine, especially cysteine sulfinic acid.
- Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
- agents according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included.
- the compositions according to the invention may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
- urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
- a particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins.
- Compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 5% by weight of hydantoin or at least one hydatoin derivative.
- Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred.
- amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and
- the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
- Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
- Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
- the monophasic hair conditioning agents according to the invention preferably have a pH in the acidic range of from 2 to 6.5, preferably from 2.4 to 6.0 and in particular from 2.8 to 5.5.
- compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for hair care and in particular improve the combability, the elasticity, the volume and the gloss of the hair.
- a third aspect of the invention is therefore the cosmetic use of the monophasic hair conditioner according to the invention for increasing hair elasticity, hair shine and hair volume and for improving combability.
- a fourth object of the invention is a cosmetic method for the care of hair, in which the inventive single-phase hair conditioner - preferably after hair cleaning - sprayed on the dry or wet hair and left until the next hair cleaning on the hair.
Abstract
The invention relates to single-phase, transparent, hair-conditioning gels, comprising a cationic polymer, a polyhydroxy compound, and a cationic surfactant and/or an amine in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, to the use of the composition for haircare, and to a method of caring for the hair using the composition and a process for preparing the composition.
Description
„Einphasiges transparentes Haargel" "Single-phase transparent hair gel"
Die Erfindung betrifft einphasige, transparente, haarkonditionierende Gele, enthaltend ein kationisches Polymer, eine Polyhydroxyverbindung sowie ein kationisches Tensid und/oder ein Amin in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger, die Verwendung des Mittels zur Haarpflege sowie ein Verfahren zur Haarpflege unter Verwendung des Mittels und ein Verfahren zur Herstellung des Mittels. The invention relates to monophasic, transparent, hair conditioning gels comprising a cationic polymer, a polyhydroxy compound and a cationic surfactant and / or an amine in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the use of the hair care composition, and a method of hair care using the composition and a method for the preparation of the agent.
Nicht zuletzt durch die starke Beanspruchung der Haare, beispielsweise durch das Färben oder Dauerwellen als auch durch die Reinigung der Haare mit Shampoos und durch Umweltbelastungen, nimmt die Bedeutung von Pflegeprodukten mit möglichst lang anhaltender Wirkung zu. Not least by the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases.
Der Grund dafür ist, dass die Haare durch die Behandlung/Beanspruchung sowohl äußerlich, als auch in Ihrer Struktur geschädigt werden können, was ihnen ein unattraktives Aussehen verleiht, das sich durch mangelnde Glätte und Weichheit, mangelnden Glanz, aber auch durch eine schlechtere Kämmbarkeit, Haarbruch oder Spliss bemerkbar machen kann. The reason for this is that the hair can be damaged by the treatment / stress both externally and in its structure, which gives them an unattractive appearance, which is characterized by lack of smoothness and softness, lack of shine, but also by a poor combability, Hair breakage or split ends can be noticeable.
Daher ist es daher seit langem üblich, die Haare einer speziellen Nachbehandlung zu unterziehen, um den Haaren und der Kopfhaut Pflegestoffe zuzuführen, die den Haaren wieder ein schönes äußeres Aussehen verleihen und die Haarstruktur kräftigen, sowie die Kopfhaut pflegen bzw. vor dem Austrocknen schützen. Bei solchen Nachbehandlungen werden, üblicherweise in Form einer Spülung, die Haare mit speziellen Wirkstoffen, beispielsweise quaternären Ammoniumsalzen oder speziellen Polymeren, behandelt. Durch diese Behandlung können je nach Formulierung die Kämmbarkeit, der Halt, die Fülle sowie der Glanz der Haare verbessert werden. Therefore, it has long been customary to subject the hair to a special post-treatment to supply the hair and the scalp care substances that give the hair back a nice appearance and strengthen the hair structure, and maintain the scalp and protect from drying out. In such post-treatments, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment can improve the combability, the hold, the fullness and the shine of the hair.
Die Einarbeitung von Haut- und Haarkonditioniermittel in eine kosmetisch geeignete - meist wässrige - Basis stellt die Hersteller solcher Zusammensetzungen aber bis auf den heutigen Tag immer wieder vor große Schwierigkeiten, denn insbesondere mineralische, natürliche oder synthetische Fett-, Wachs- und Ölkomponenten, die nachweislich einen pflegenden und konditionierenden Effekt auf der Haut und den Haaren hinterlassen, lassen sich nicht durch einfaches Einmischen in eine kosmetische Basis einarbeiten. However, the incorporation of skin and hair conditioner in a cosmetically suitable - usually aqueous - basis, the manufacturer of such compositions but to date, always great difficulties, especially mineral, natural or synthetic fat, wax and oil components, the proven leave a nourishing and conditioning effect on the skin and hair, can not be incorporated by simply mixing in a cosmetic base.
Insbesondere wenn Silikonöle und/oder pflanzliche Fette oder Öle in haarkosmetischen Zusammensetzungen als Wirkstoffe eingearbeitet werden, erhält man üblicherweise mindestens zwei - oder mehrphasige Formulierungen. Dies ist umso stärker zu beobachten, je höher der Gehalt an Silikonölen und/oder pflanzlichen Fetten und Ölen in den Zusammensetzungen ist. Diese zweiphasigen Systeme müssen vor Gebrauch vom Verbraucher durch kräftiges Schütteln in ein nur kurze Zeit stabiles einphasiges System überführt werden. Selbst bei sachgemäßer Anwendung dieser Produkte ist dann eine gute Produktleistung auf dem Haar nicht immer gegeben, denn beispielsweise durch zu kurzes Schütteln kann nicht immer eine gleichmäßige Verteilung der Wirkstoffe gewährleistet werden. Es kann in solchen Fällen vorkommen, dass bei der Anwendung des Haarkonditioniermittels anstatt der erforderlichen Menge der Wirkstoffe mehr „Trägersubstanz" auf die Haare gelangt, wodurch die Konditionierwirkung sinkt.
Gleichzeitig wird bei einer solchen unsachgemäßen Anwendung das Haarkonditioniermittel nach jeder Anwendung konzentrierter, und ab einer gewissen Füllmenge kann es sogar zu einer Überkonditionierung kommen, wodurch die Haare schwer werden. In particular, when silicone oils and / or vegetable fats or oils are incorporated into hair cosmetic compositions as active ingredients, one usually obtains at least two- or multi-phase formulations. This is all the more noticeable, the higher the content of silicone oils and / or vegetable fats and oils in the compositions. These two-phase systems must be converted by the consumer by vigorous shaking into a stable only for a short time single-phase system before use. Even with proper use of these products then a good product performance on the hair is not always given, for example, by shaking too briefly can not always ensure a uniform distribution of the active ingredients. It may happen in such cases that instead of the required amount of the active ingredients, more "carrier substance" gets onto the hair when using the hair conditioning agent, as a result of which the conditioning effect decreases. At the same time, the hair conditioning agent becomes more concentrated after each use in such an improper use, and over a certain amount can even over-conditioning, making the hair become heavy.
Die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es daher ein stabiles, klares und einphasiges Haarkonditioniermittel herzustellen, welches die Haare pflegt und die Kämmbarkeit der Haare sowie deren Glanz erhöht. Optimalerweise sollen die Haarkonditioniermittel dennoch eine vergleichsweise niedrige Viskosität und im Falle einer höheren Viskosität eine niedrige Fließgrenze aufweisen, um auf der Haaroberfläche leicht verteilbar zu sein. The object of the present invention was therefore to produce a stable, clear and single-phase hair conditioner which cares for the hair and increases the combability of the hair and its gloss. Optimally, the hair conditioning agents should nevertheless have a comparatively low viscosity and, in the case of a higher viscosity, a low yield point in order to be readily dispersible on the hair surface.
Eine weitere Aufgabe der Erfindung war es, ein stabiles, klares und einphasiges Haarkonditioniermittel herzustellen, daß die Einarbeitung höherer Mengen an Olkomponenten - insbesondere Silikonen und/oder pflanzlichen Ölen ermöglicht, ohne dass die Einphasigkeit oder die gewünschte Viskosität beeinträchtigt wird. A further object of the invention was to produce a stable, clear and single-phase hair conditioning agent that allows the incorporation of higher amounts of oil components - in particular silicones and / or vegetable oils, without affecting the single-phase or the desired viscosity.
Eine weitere Aufgabe der Erfindung bestand darin, dass nicht nur der gesamte Haarverbund sondern selbst die einzelne Haarfaser vom Ansatz bis zur Spitze gleichmäßig gepflegt und glänzend aussieht und ein angenehmes taktiles Gefühl aufweist. Another object of the invention was that not only the entire hair composite but even the individual hair fiber from the approach to the tip looks uniformly and shiny and has a pleasant tactile feel.
Überraschenderweise wurde gefunden, dass bestimmte kationische Polymere in der Kombination mit ausgewählten Polyhydroxyverbindungen und/oder ausgewählten kationischen Tensiden und/oder mit bestimmten Aminen die vorgenannten Ziele in hohem Maße erfüllen. Ihre Kombination ermöglicht die Herstellung einphasiger Produkte mit geeigneter Viskosität, Fließgrenze und Klarheit. Surprisingly, it has been found that certain cationic polymers in combination with selected polyhydroxy compounds and / or selected cationic surfactants and / or with certain amines fulfill the abovementioned objectives to a high degree. Their combination enables the production of single-phase products with appropriate viscosity, yield point and clarity.
Gleichzeitig führt die Verwendung dieser Kombinationen zu überraschend guten Eigenschaften des behandelten Haares, insbesondere zu verbesserten Kämmbarkeiten und zu einer verbesserten Elastizität. Insbesondere wird jedoch der Glanz des damit behandelten Haares deutlich erhöht. Schließlich weisen diese Gele selbst eine neuartige Haptik aus und fühlen sich bereits mit geringsten Mengen an Olkomponenten gehaltvoll, voluminös und ölhaltig an, obwohl sie nur geringste Mengen enthalten. Dieses haptische Verhalten unterscheidet die erfindungsgemäßen Gele deutlich von Gelen des Standes der Technik, zumal die erfindungsgemäßen Öle eine klare Optik aufweisen. At the same time, the use of these combinations leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular to improved Kämmbarkeiten and improved elasticity. In particular, however, the gloss of the hair treated with it is significantly increased. Finally, these gels themselves have a novel feel and feel rich even with very small amounts of oil components, voluminous and oily, although they contain only very small amounts. This haptic behavior clearly distinguishes the gels according to the invention from gels of the prior art, especially since the oils according to the invention have a clear appearance.
Die gesamte Zusammensetzung ist sehr gleichmäßig auf dem Haar verteilbar. Das erfindungsgemäße Gel lässt sich, obwohl es die typische gelformige Standfestigkeit aufweist, sehr leicht und angenehm ohne Aufwendung von Kraft mit den Fingern auf dem Haar und selbst auf einer einzelnen Faser verteilen. The entire composition is very evenly distributed on the hair. The gel of the present invention, though having the typical gel-like stability, is very easy and pleasant to dispense with the fingers on the hair and even on a single fiber without the application of force.
Ein erster Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist daher ein einphasiges, transparentes haarkonditionierendes Mittel in Gelform, enthaltend A first aspect of the present invention is therefore a gel-form, single-phase, transparent hair conditioning agent containing
a) ein kationisches Polymer, bestehend aus mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (I) und gegebenenfalls einem Monomer der Formel (II)
a) a cationic polymer consisting of at least one monomer of the formula (I) and, if appropriate, of a monomer of the formula (II)
(I) (II), (I) (II),
in welchen R1 bis R9 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C-i_4— Alkyl, Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butyl oder tert-Butyl bedeuten mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R6, R7, R8 oder R9 C^— Alkyl bedeutet, n für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 8, und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion wie Halogenid, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Hydrogensulfat oder Methosulfat, steht, in which R1 to R9 are independently hydrogen, C-i_ 4 - alkyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R6, R7, R8 or R 9 is C 1-4 -alkyl, n is an integer from 1 to 8, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, such as halide, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, hydrogensulfate or methosulfate,
mindestens eine kationische Verbindung der Formel (Tkat2), at least one cationic compound of the formula (Tkat2),
In welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RS03 ", worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat steht, und In which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, and
c) mindestens 15,0 bis 55,0 Gew.% mindestens einer Polyhydroxyverbindung ausgewählt aus Glykol und/oder Glycerin und/oder 1 ,2-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,3-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,2-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,5-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,2-Hexandiol und/oder 1 ,6- Hexandiol und/oder deren Mischungen und c) at least 15.0 to 55.0 wt.% Of at least one polyhydroxy compound selected from glycol and / or glycerol and / or 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 1, 3-propylene glycol and / or 1, 2-pentanediol and / or 1, 5-pentanediol and / or 1, 2-hexanediol and / or 1, 6-hexanediol and / or mixtures thereof and
d) einen kosmetischen Träger. d) a cosmetic carrier.
Die Inhaltsstoffe a), b) und c) werden nachfolgend detailliert beschrieben. Soweit nachstehend vom Wirkstoffkomplex (A) gesprochen wird, bezieht sich diese Aussage auf die in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln zwingend enthaltenen Inhaltsstoffe a), b) und c). Ingredients a), b) and c) are described in detail below. As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken, this statement refers to the ingredients contained in the inventive compositions a), b) and c).
Unter Kämmbarkeit versteht sich erfindungsgemäß sowohl die Kämmbarkeit der nassen Faser, als auch die Kämmbarkeit der trockenen Faser. Als Maß für die Kämmbarkeit dient die aufgewendete Kämmarbeit oder die aufgewendete Kraft während des Kämmvorganges eines Faserkollektivs. Die Messparameter können durch den Fachmann sensorisch beurteilt oder durch Messeinrichtungen quantifiziert werden. By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber. As a measure of the combing used the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective. The measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
Ein wichtiger Aspekt des erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermittels ist, dass es als Gel vorliegt.
Das erfindungsgemäße Haarbehandlungsmittel muss eine Viskosität von mindestens 15000 mPas und maximal 50000 mPas, bevorzugt von maximal 30000 mPas und insbesondere von maximal 25000 mPas und höchst bevorzugt von 20000 mPas aufweisen (gemessen mit einem Brookfield- Viskosimeter DV-II, Spindel 4 bei 20 UpM (20 s) und bei 20°C). An important aspect of the hair conditioning agent of the invention is that it is present as a gel. The hair treatment agent according to the invention must have a viscosity of at least 15,000 mPas and not more than 50,000 mPas, preferably not more than 30,000 mPas and in particular not more than 25,000 mPas and more preferably 20,000 mPas (measured using a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 4 at 20 rpm). 20 s) and at 20 ° C).
Das erfindungsgemäße Haarkonditioniermittel wird - bevorzugt nach der Haarreinigung - fakultativ auf nasse oder trockene Haare aufgetragen. Anschließend wird das Haar wie üblich zu einer Frisur gestaltet. Hierbei kann es hilfreich sein, einen Föhn, ein Glätteisen oder zumindest einen Kamm zu verwenden. The hair conditioning composition according to the invention is applied optionally on wet or dry hair, preferably after hair cleansing. Subsequently, the hair is designed as usual to a hairstyle. It may be helpful to use a hair dryer, a straightener or at least a comb.
Ein geeigneter kosmetischer Träger d) für die erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermittel ist bevorzugt wässrig und/oder wässrig/alkoholisch. Bevorzugt enthält er mindestens 20 Gew.-% Wasser. Unter wässrig-alkoholischen kosmetischen Trägern sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wässrige Lösungen enthaltend 3 bis 70 Gew.-% eines Ci-C6-Alkohols, insbesondere Methanol, Ethanol bzw. Propanol, Isopropanol, Butanol, Isobutanol, tert.-Butanol, n-Pentanol, iso- Pentanole, n-Hexanol und iso-Hexanole, zu verstehen. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können zusätzlich weitere organische Lösemittel, wie beispielsweise Methoxybutanol, Benzylalkohol oder Ethyldiglykol enthalten. In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthalten die Haarkonditioniermittel - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - mindestens 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt mindestens 25 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt mindestens 30 Gew.-% und insbesondere mindestens 35 Gew.-% und in der erfindungsgemäß besten Ausführungsform mindestens 40 Gew.% eines wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Trägers. A suitable cosmetic carrier d) for the hair conditioning agents according to the invention is preferably aqueous and / or aqueous / alcoholic. It preferably contains at least 20% by weight of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers comprise aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-butyl Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol and iso-hexanols to understand. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol or ethyl diglycol. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair conditioning agents contain - based on their total weight - at least 20 wt .-%, preferably at least 25 wt .-%, more preferably at least 30 wt .-% and in particular at least 35 wt .-% and in the According to the invention best embodiment at least 40 wt.% Of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
Als Inhaltstoff a) enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel mindestens ein kationisches Polymer. Das kationische Polymer ist hierbei aus mindestens einem Monomeren der Formel (I) und gegebenenfalls einem Monomeren der Formel (II) aufgebaut, As ingredient a) the agents according to the invention contain at least one cationic polymer. The cationic polymer is in this case composed of at least one monomer of the formula (I) and, if appropriate, of a monomer of the formula (II),
(I) (II) (I) (II)
in welchen R1 bis R9 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1 -C4-Alkyl, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, iso-Propyl-, Butyl-, iso-Butyl- oder tert-Butyl- bedeutet und der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R6, R7, R8 oder R9 C1-C4-Alkyl bedeutet, n ist ganzzahlig von 1 bis 8 und A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion wie Halogenid, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Hydrogensulfat oder Methosulfat. Vorzugsweise ist R1 Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe, besonders bevorzugt ist R1 eine Methylgruppe. Vorzugsweise ist R2 Wasserstoff oder eine C1-C4- Alkylgruppe, besonders bevorzugt ist R2 Wasserstoff. Vorzugsweise ist R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder eine C1-C4-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugt ist R3, R4 und R5 gleich und höchst bevorzugt Methyl. Die Zahl n ist bevorzugt ganzzahlig von 1 bis 7, bevorzugter von 1 bis 5, höchst bevorzugt 1 , 2, 3 oder 4 und am bevorzugtesten 2. R6 ist bevorzugt Wasserstoff oder Methyl. R7 ist bevorzugt
Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl, besonders bevorzugt Methyl. R8 und R9 sind bevorzugt gleich und stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl oder C1-C4-Alkyl, besonders bevorzugt Wasserstoff oder Methyl. Am bevorzugtesten ist als Monomer der Formel (II) Dimethylacrylamid. Ein erfindungsgemäßes kationisches Polymer besteht zu 20 bis 95 Gew.% aus dem Monomeren (I) und zu 5 bis 50 Gew.% aus dem Monomeren (II). Bevorzugt ist das Monomer (I) zu 40 bis 90 Gew.% und das Monomer (II) zu 10 bis 40 Gew.% enthalten. Besonders bevorzugt ist das erfindungsgemäße kationische Polymer aus den Formeln (I) und (II) ein Homopolymer aus Monomeren der Formel (I). in which R 1 to R 9 independently of one another are hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl and with the proviso that at least one of the R6, R7, R8 or R9 is C1-C4 alkyl, n is an integer from 1 to 8 and A is a physiologically acceptable anion such as halide, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, hydrogen sulfate or methosulfate. Preferably, R 1 is hydrogen or a methyl group, more preferably R 1 is a methyl group. Preferably, R 2 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, more preferably R 2 is hydrogen. Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 are independently hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl group. More preferably, R3, R4 and R5 are the same and most preferably methyl. The number n is preferably integer from 1 to 7, more preferably from 1 to 5, most preferably 1, 2, 3 or 4 and most preferably 2. R6 is preferably hydrogen or methyl. R7 is preferred Hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl. R 8 and R 9 are preferably identical and stand for hydrogen, methyl or C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, particularly preferably hydrogen or methyl. Most preferred as the monomer of formula (II) is dimethylacrylamide. A cationic polymer according to the invention consists of from 20 to 95% by weight of the monomer (I) and from 5 to 50% by weight of the monomer (II). Preferably, the monomer (I) to 40 to 90 wt.% And the monomer (II) to 10 to 40 wt.% Contained. The cationic polymer of the formulas (I) and (II) according to the invention is particularly preferably a homopolymer of monomers of the formula (I).
Selbstverständlich kann das erfindungsgemäße kationische Polymer vernetzt sein. In diesem Falle wird die Vernetzung durch die üblichen Vernetzungsmittel wie beispielsweise Allyl-acrylamid, Allylmethacrylamid, Tetraallylammoniumchlorid oder Ν,Ν'-methylen-bisacrylamid in Mengen bis zu 500 ppm bewirkt. Of course, the cationic polymer according to the invention may be crosslinked. In this case, the crosslinking by the usual cross-linking agent such as allyl acrylamide, allyl methacrylamide, tetraallylammonium or Ν, Ν 'is effected up to 500 ppm methylene bis-acrylamide in amounts.
Erfindungsgemäß liegt das kationische Polymer als Pulver in Reinsubstanz vor. Weitere Zusatzstoffe wie Lösemittel, Stellmittel etc. sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kationischen Polymeren erfindungsgemäß nicht enthalten. Erfindungsgemäße kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise erhältlich aus einem Monomer der Formel (I) und Acrylamid. Dies sind beispielsweise Produkte die unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Hercofloc® 812 (Hercules), BINA® Quat P100 (Ciba bzw. BASF), Reten® - Typen (Hercules), Salcare® SC63 (Ciba bzw. BASF) Rohagit KF 720F (Rohm GmbH, Evonik). Erfindungsgemäß höchst bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind Homopolymere aus den Monomeren gemäß der Formel (I), wie beispielsweise die Produkte mit den INCI - Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium- 45, Quaternium-49 sowie höchst bevorzugt das Handelsprodukt Rheocare® Ultragel (Polyquaternium-37). According to the invention, the cationic polymer is present as a powder in pure substance. Further additives such as solvents, adjusting agents, etc. are not included in the cationic polymers used according to the invention. Cationic polymers of the invention are obtainable, for example, from a monomer of the formula (I) and acrylamide. These are, for example, products sold under the trade names Hercofloc® 812 (Hercules), BINA® Quat P100 (Ciba or BASF), Reten® types (Hercules), Salcare® SC63 (Ciba or BASF) Rohagit KF 720F (Rohm GmbH, Evonik). Highly preferred cationic polymers according to the invention are homopolymers of the monomers of the formula (I), for example the products with the INCI names Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-45, Quaternium-49 and most preferably the commercial product Rheocare® Ultragel ( Polyquaternium-37).
Das erfindungsgemäße kationische Polymer wird in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung verwendet. Bevorzugt sind Mengen von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0, 1 bis 3,0 Gew.%. The cationic polymer of the present invention is used in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the entire composition. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight.
Der zweite zwingende Inhaltsstoff ist ein kationisches Imidazolderivat. Die im folgenden dargestellte Formel (Tkat2) zeigt die Struktur dieser Verbindungen. The second mandatory ingredient is a cationic imidazole derivative. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
Die Reste R stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Die bevorzugten Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat2) enthalten für R jeweils den gleichen Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Die Kettenlänge der Reste R beträgt bevorzugt 12 bis 21 Kohlenstoffatome. A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Sulfaten der
allgemeinen Formel RS03 ~, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat. Besonders erfindungsgemäße Beispiele sind beispielsweise unter den INCII - Bezeichnungen Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 und Quaternium-91 erhältlich. Höchst bevorzugt ist erfindungsgemäß Quaternium-27 sowie Quaternium-91 . The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of general formula RSO 3 - , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids, such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-27 and quaternium-91 are highly preferred according to the invention.
Das erfindungsgemäße kationische Tensid der Formel (Tkat2) wird in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung verwendet. Bevorzugt sind Mengen von 0, 1 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.% und höchst bevorzugt von 0,3 bis 3,0 Gew.%. The cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat2) according to the invention is used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight.
Der Inhaltsstoff c) ist mindestens eine Polyhydroxyverbindung. Diese Polyhydroxyverbindung ist ausgewählt aus Glykol und/oder Glycerin und/oder 1 ,2-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,5-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,2-Hexandiol und/oder 1 ,6-Hexandiol und/oder deren Mischungen. Die erfindungsgemäße Klarheit der Zusammensetzungen wird ausschließlich durch die Polyhydroxyverbindungen hergestellt. Hierzu ist es weiterhin notwendig die Polyhydroxyverbindungen in einem eng begrenzten Mengenrahmen zu verwenden. Bei kleineren oder größeren Mengen werden keine klaren Zusammensetzungen mehr erhalten. Daher werden erfindungsgemäß mindestens 15,0 bis 55,0 Gew.% mindestens einer Polyhydroxyverbindung ausgewählt aus Glykol und/oder Glycerin und/oder 1 ,2-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,3-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,2-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,5-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,2-Hexandiol und/oder 1 ,6-Hexandiol und/oder deren Mischungen in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen verwendet. Besonders bevorzugt werden Glykol und/oder Glycerin und/oder deren Mischungen verwendet. Unter Glykol wird 1 ,2-Ethylenglykol verstanden. Bevorzugt ist eine Polyhydroxyverbindung ausgewählt aus Glykol, Glycerin, 1 ,2-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,3-Propylenglykol sowie deren Mischungen. Erfindungsgemäß die besten Ergebnisse werden erhalten, wenn die Polyhydroxyverbindung ausgewählt ist aus Glykol und Glycerin sowie deren Mischungen. Ingredient c) is at least one polyhydroxy compound. This polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol and / or glycerol and / or 1, 2-pentanediol and / or 1, 5-pentanediol and / or 1, 2-hexanediol and / or 1, 6-hexanediol and / or mixtures thereof. The clarity of the compositions according to the invention is produced exclusively by the polyhydroxy compounds. For this purpose, it is further necessary to use the polyhydroxy compounds in a very limited quantity. For smaller or larger amounts no clear compositions are obtained. Therefore, according to the invention at least 15.0 to 55.0 wt.% Of at least one polyhydroxy compound selected from glycol and / or glycerol and / or 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 1, 3-propylene glycol and / or 1, 2-pentanediol and / or 1, 5-pentanediol and / or 1, 2-hexanediol and / or 1, 6-hexanediol and / or mixtures thereof used in the compositions of the invention. Particular preference is given to using glycol and / or glycerol and / or mixtures thereof. By glycol is meant 1, 2-ethylene glycol. Preferably, a polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 1, 3-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, the best results are obtained when the polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol and glycerol and mixtures thereof.
Ein zweiter Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kosmetischen Mittels enthaltend eine Zusammensetzung gemäß Anspruch 1. Das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren zur Herstellung klarer Gele aus den erfindungsgemäßen Inhaltsstoffen a) bis d) beinhaltet die folgenden Verfahrenschritte, welche in der erfindungsgemäßen Reihenfolge durchlaufen werden müssen. Zunächst wird das erfindungsgemäße kationische Polymer gemäß a) in Wasser bei einer Temperatur von 15 bis 50 °C vorgequollen. Zu dieser Quellung des kationischen Polymeren a) wird das kationische Tensid b) unter Rühren zugefügt. Zu diesem Zeitpunkt sieht die Zusammensetzung milchig und trüb aus. Der pH - Wert der Zusammensetzung wird auf einen leicht sauren pH - Wert mit üblichen Säuren oder ggf. Basen von etwa pH 4 bis 5 eingestellt. Weiterhin werden an dieser Stelle ggf. weitere optionale Inhaltsstoffe hinzugegeben. Als letztes wird die Polyhdroxy Verbindung unter Rühren zugegeben. Abschließend wird nochmals der pH - Wert der Zusammensetzung auf den gewünschten Wert zwischen 2 und 6,5 eingestellt. Erst durch die Zugabe der Polyhydroxyverbindung c) unter Rühren stellt sich einerseits die erfindungsgemäße Klarheit und andererseits die erfindungsgemäße
Gelstruktur und deren Viskosität ein. Die Viskosität wird wie bereits zuvor beschrieben nach Brookfield bei 25 °C gemessen. Die Klarheit oder Transparenz wird einerseits visuell bestimmt. Hierzu wird durch die in einem üblichen 250 ml Becherglas befindliche Zusammensetzung eine unmittelbar dahinter befindliche Schrift mit den Schriftzeichen Arial in der Größe 10 gelesen. Eine weitere Möglichkeit zur Bestimmung der Klarheit der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen besteht darin die Trübung, bzw. Durchlässigkeit der Zusammensetzung nach der DIN/EN 27027 (ISO 7027) als Durchlichttrübungsmessung zu bestimmen. Als Ergebnis wird die Transparenz in Prozent der Transmission erhalten. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen sind minimal milchig oder opak bis klar. Die Transparenz beträgt zwischen 50 und 100 %. A second subject of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising a composition according to claim 1. The process according to the invention for the preparation of clear gels from ingredients a) to d) according to the invention comprises the following process steps, which must be run in the order according to the invention , First, the inventive cationic polymer according to a) is pre-swollen in water at a temperature of 15 to 50 ° C. To this swelling of the cationic polymer a), the cationic surfactant b) is added with stirring. At this time, the composition looks milky and cloudy. The pH of the composition is adjusted to a slightly acidic pH with customary acids or optionally bases of about pH 4 to 5. Furthermore, further optional ingredients may be added at this point. Lastly, the polyhydroxy compound is added with stirring. Finally, the pH of the composition is again adjusted to the desired value between 2 and 6.5. Only by the addition of the polyhydroxy compound c) with stirring on the one hand, the clarity of the invention and on the other hand, the inventive Gel structure and its viscosity. The viscosity is measured as described previously according to Brookfield at 25 ° C. The clarity or transparency is on the one hand determined visually. For this purpose, a font located immediately behind it with the character Arial in size 10 is read through the composition contained in a conventional 250 ml beaker. A further possibility for determining the clarity of the compositions according to the invention is to determine the turbidity or permeability of the composition according to DIN / EN 27027 (ISO 7027) as transmitted-light turbidity measurement. As a result, the transparency is obtained as a percentage of the transmission. The compositions of the invention are minimally milky or opaque to clear. The transparency is between 50 and 100%.
Das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren zur Herstellung einer kosmetischen Zusammensetzung gemäß Anspruch 1 ist wie folgt gekennzeichnet: The process according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is characterized as follows:
a) Vorquellen des kationischen Polymeren gemäß Anspruch 1 bei einer Temperatur von 15 bis 50 °C, a) preswelling the cationic polymer according to claim 1 at a temperature of 15 to 50 ° C,
b) Hinzufügen des kationischen Tensides gemäß Anspruch 1 unter weiterem Rühren, c) Einstellen eine pH - Wertes von 4 bis 5, und hinzufügen von gegebenenfalls weiteren in Wasser löslichen Substanzen, b) adding the cationic surfactant according to claim 1 with further stirring, c) adjusting a pH of 4 to 5, and optionally adding further water-soluble substances,
d) Zugeben unter Rühren der Polyhydroxyverbindung gemäß Anspruch 1 und gegebenenfalls endgültige Einstellung des pH - Wertes der Zusammensetzung auf einen pH - Wert von 2 bis 6,5. d) adding with stirring the polyhydroxy compound according to claim 1 and optionally final adjustment of the pH of the composition to a pH of 2 to 6.5.
Um die Transparenz der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung zu erhalten müssen auch die weiteren optionalen Inhaltsstoffe eine Bedingung erfüllen. Diese müssen in Wasser in einer Konzentration von 0, 1 % klar gelöst werden können. In order to obtain the transparency of the composition according to the invention, the further optional ingredients must also fulfill a condition. These must be able to be solved clearly in water in a concentration of 0, 1%.
Als ersten optionalen weiteren Inhaltsstoff enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Haarbehandlungsmittel quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0, 1 bis 10 Gew.-%. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Haarbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie 0, 1 bis 8,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 8,0 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,5 bis 8,0 Gew.-%, noch weiter bevorzugt 0,5 bis 6 Gew.-%, noch weiter bevorzugt 1 ,0 bis 6 Gew.-% und insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-% quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen enthalten. As a first optional further ingredient hair treatment compositions of the invention contain quaternary ammonium compounds in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%. Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, even further preferably 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, still more preferably 1, 0 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-% quaternary ammonium compounds.
Quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind prinzipiell monomere kationische oder amphotäre Ammoniumverbindungen, monomere Amine, Aminoamide, polymere kationische Ammoniumverbindungen sowie polymere amphotere Ammoniumverbindungen. Aus dieser Vielzahl an möglichen quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen haben sich die folgenden Gruppen als besonders geeignet erwiesen und werden jeweils für sich genommen in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.% eingesetzt. Diese Menge wird auch nicht unter- oder überschritten, wenn eine Mischung unterschiedlicher Verbindungen der quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen verwendet wird. Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From these many possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have been found to be particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.
Esterquats gemäß der Formel (Tkat1 -2) bilden die erste Gruppe.
R2 Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group. R2
l + l +
R1 N— X— R4 R1 N-X-R4
I I
R3 R3
(Tkat1-2) (Tkat1-2)
Hierin sind die Reste R1 , R2 und R3 jeweils unabhängig voneinander und können gleich oder verschieden sein. Die Reste R1 , R2 und R3 bedeuten: Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl, an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,
- den Rest (- X - R4), mit der Maßgabe, daß höchstens 2 der Reste R1 , R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können: - the rest (- X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:
Der Rest -(X - R4) ist mindestens 1 bis 3 mal enthalten. The rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
Hierin steht X für: Where X stands for:
1 ) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1 - 5, oder 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or
2) -(CH2-CHR5-0)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl, 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
3) eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis vier Kohlenstoffatomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt sein kann, und welche mindestens eine und höchstens 3 Hydroxygruppen enthält. Beispiele sind: -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH2CHOHCH3, -CH(CH2OH)2, -COH(CH2OH)2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH und Hydroxybutylreste, 3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
und R4 steht für: and R4 stands for:
1 ) R6-0-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder 1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann,
und A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und wird an dieser Stelle stellvertretend für alle auch im folgenden beschriebenen Strukturen definiert. Das Anion aller beschriebenen kationischen Verbindungen ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RS03 ", worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat. 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® und Akypoquat® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex® VS 90 und Akypoquat® 131 sind Beispiele für diese Esterquats. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®. The products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-2) zählen zur tionischen Betainestern.
(Tkatl -2.1 ) Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the functional betaine esters. (Tkatl -2.1)
R8 entspricht in seiner Bedeutung R7. R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
Besonders bevorzugt sind die Esterquats mit den Handelsbezeichnungen Armocare® VGH-70, sowie Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90 und Akypoquat® 131. Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
Kationische Tenside der Formel (Tkat1-1 ) können ebenfalls verwendet werden. Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) can also be used.
(Tkatl ) (Tkatl)
In der Formel (Tkatl ) stehen R1 , R2, R3 und R4 für jeweils unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff, eine Methylgruppe, eine Phenylgruppe, eine Benzylgruppe, für einen gesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppen substituiert sein kann. A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion, beispielsweise Halogenide wie Chlorid oder Bromid sowie Methosulfate. In the formula (Tkatl), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
Beispiele für Verbindungen der Formel (Tkatl ) sind Lauryltrimehtylammoniumchlorid, Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromid, Cetyltrimethylammonium- methosulfat, Dicetyldimethylammoniumchlorid, Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethyl- ammoniumchlorid, Distearyldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumbromid, Behenyltrimethyl- ammoniummethosulfat.
In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel weiterhin mindestens ein Amin und/oder kationisiertes Amin, insbesondere ein Amidoamin und/oder ein kationisiertes Amidoamin mit den folgenden Strukturformeln: Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
R1 - NH - (CH2)n - N+R2R3R4 A (Tkat3) R1 - NH - (CH 2) n - N + R 2 R 3 R 4 A (Tkat3)
worin R1 ein Acyl-oder Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein können, und wobei der Acylrest und/oder der Alkylrest mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten können, und wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
R2, R3 und R4 jeweils unabhängig voneinander R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
1 ) Wasserstoff oder 1) hydrogen or
2) ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
3) eine verzweigte oder unverzweigte Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen mit mindestens einer und höchstens drei Hydroxygruppen beispielsweise -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH2CHOHCH3, -CH(CH2OH)2, -COH(CH2OH)2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH und Hydroxybutylreste, und 3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
A ein Anion wie zuvor beschrieben und A is an anion as previously described and
n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten. n is an integer between 1 and 10.
Bevorzugt wird eine Zusammensetzung, in welcher das Amin und/oder das quaternisierte Amin gemäß allgemeiner Formeln (Tkat3) ein Amidoamin und/oder ein quaternisiertes Amidoamin ist, worin R1 ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter, gesättigter oder ungesättigter Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C- Atomen, welcher mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten kann, bedeutet. Bevorzugt ist hierbei ein Fettsäurerest aus Ölen und Wachsen, insbesondere aus natürlichen Ölen und Wachsen. Als Beispiele hierfür kommen Lanolin, Bienen- oder Candellilawachse in Betracht. Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these are lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.
Bevorzugt sind auch solche Amidoamine und/oder quaternisierte Amidoamine, in denen R2, R3 und/oder R4 in der Formel (Tkat3) ein Rest gemäß der allgemeinen Formel CH2CH2OR5 bedeuten, worin R5 die Bedeutung von Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Hydroxyethyl oder Wasserstoff haben kann. Die bevorzugte Größe von n in der allgemeinen Formel (Tkat8) ist eine ganze Zahl zwischen 2 und 5. Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
Die Alkylamidoamine können sowohl als solche vorliegen und durch Protonierung in entsprechend saurer Lösung in eine quaternäre Verbindung in der Zusammensetzung überführt werden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die kationischen Alkylamidoamine. The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
Beispiele für derartige erfindungsgemäße Handelsprodukte sind Witcamine® 100, Incromine® BB, Mackine® 401 und andere Mackine® -Typen, Adogen® S18V, und als permanent kationische Aminoamine: Rewoquat® RTM 50, Empigen® CSC, Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat® UTM 50, Schercoquat® BAS, Lexquat® AMG-BEO, oder Incroquat® Behenyl HE. Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ® 100, Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
Weitere quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind Ammoniumhalogenide, insbesondere Chloride und Bromide, wie Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride und Trialkyl- methylammoniumchloride, z.B. Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Distearyldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylammo-
niumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid und Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid. Die langen Alkylketten der oben genannten Tenside weisen bevorzugt 10 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatome auf. Die zuvor genannten kationischen Tenside können einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander verwendet werden, wobei Mengen zwischen 0,01 bis 10 Gew.%, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 7,5 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 5,0 Gew.% enthalten. Die allerbesten Ergebnisse werden dabei mit Mengen von 0, 1 bis 3,0 Gew.% jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung des jeweiligen Mittels erhalten. Further quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride. niumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 22 carbon atoms. The abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
Weitere quarternäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind kationische und amphotere Polymer. Dabei sind die hier genannten kationischen Polymere nicht identisch mit den erfindungsgemäßen zwingenden kationischen Polymeren. Vielmehr können diese kationischen Polymere zusätzlich verwendet werden. Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers. The cationic polymers mentioned here are not identical to the obligatory cationic polymers according to the invention. Rather, these cationic polymers can additionally be used.
Die kationischen und/oder amphoteren Polymere können Homo- oder Copolymere oder Polymere auf Basis natürlicher Polymere sein, wobei die quaternären Stickstoffgruppen entweder in der Polymerkette oder vorzugsweise als Substituent an einem oder mehreren der Monomeren enthalten sind. Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete kationische Monomere sind ungesättigte, radikalisch polymerisierbare Verbindungen, welche mindestens eine kationische Gruppe tragen, insbesondere ammoniumsubstituierte Vinylmonomere wie zum Beispiel Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium und quaternäre The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
Vinylammoniummonomere mit cyclischen, kationische Stickstoffe enthaltenden Gruppen wie Pyridinium, Imidazolium oder quaternäre Pyrrolidone, z.B. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, oder Alyklvinylpyrrolidon Salze. Die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere sind vorzugsweise niedere Alkylgruppen wie zum Beispiel C1- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3-Alkylgruppen. Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete Comonomere sind beispielsweise Acrylamid, Methacrylamid; Alkyl- und Dialkylacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylmethacrylamid, Alkylacrylat, Alkylmethacrylat, Vinylcaprolacton, Vinylcaprolactam, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylester, z.B. Vinylacetat, Vinylalkohol, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol, wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise C1 - bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1 - bis C3-Alkylgruppen sind. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Aus der Vielzahl dieser Polymere haben sich als besonders wirkungsvolle Bestandteile des erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkomplexes erwiesen: From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention:
Im Folgenden werden einige Beispiele von besonders bevorzugten Polymeren beschrieben. In the following some examples of particularly preferred polymers are described.
Geignete weitere - von a) verschiedene - kationische Polymere können Homo- oder Copolymere sein, wobei die quaternären Stickstoffgruppen entweder in der Polymerkette oder vorzugsweise als Substituent an einem oder mehreren der Monomeren enthalten sind. Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete kationische Monomere sind ungesättigte, radikalisch polymerisierbare Verbindungen, welche mindestens eine kationische Gruppe tragen, insbesondere ammoniumsubstituierte Vinylmonomere wie zum Beispiel Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium,
Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium und quaternäreOther suitable cationic polymers other than a) may be homopolymers or copolymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
Vinylammoniummonomere mit cyclischen, kationische Stickstoffe enthaltenden Gruppen wie Pyridinium, Imidazolium oder quaternäre Pyrrolidone, z.B. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, oder Alyklvinylpyrrolidon Salze. Die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere sind vorzugsweise niedere Alkylgruppen wie zum Beispiel C1- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3-Alkylgruppen. Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Geeignete Polymere mit quaternären Amingruppen sind beispielsweise die im CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium beschriebenen Polymere wie Methylvinylimidazoliumchlorid/Vinylpyrrolidon Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) oder quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat Copolymer (Polyquaternium- 1 1 ). Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).
Von den kationischen Polymeren, die in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten sein können, ist zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat® 755 N und Gafquat® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und von denen das Gafquat® 734 besonders bevorzugt ist, geeignet. Weitere kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise das von der Firma BASF, Deutschland unter dem Handelsnamen Luviquat® HM 550 vertriebene Copolymer aus Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Imidazoliminmethochlorid, das von der Firma Calgon/USA unter dem Handelsnamen Merquat® Plus 3300 vertriebene Terpolymer aus Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid, Natriumacrylat und Acrylamid und das von der Firma ISP unter dem Handelsnamen Gafquat® HS 100 vertriebene Vinylpyrrolidon/Methacryl- amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid Copolymer. Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.
Ein geeignetes kationisches Polymer, das von synthetischen Poylmeren abgeleitet ist, ist unter der Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-74 im Handel erhältlich. A suitable cationic polymer derived from synthetic polymers is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
Geeignete kationische Polymere, die von natürlichen Polymeren abgeleitet sind, sind kationische Derivate von Polysacchariden, beispielsweise kationische Derivate von Cellulose, Stärke oder Guar. Geeignet sind weiterhin Chitosan und Chitosanderivate. Kationische Polysaccharide haben die allgemeine Formel G-0-B-N+RaRbRc A" Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a R b R c A "
G ist ein Anhydroglucoserest, beispielsweise Stärke- oder Celluloseanhydroglucose; G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B ist eine divalente Verbindungsgruppe, beispielsweise Alkylen, Oxyalkylen, Polyoxyalkylen oder B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
Hydroxyalkylen; hydroxyalkylene;
Ra, Rb und Rc sind unabhängig voneinander Alkyl, Aryl, Alkylaryl, Arylalkyl, Alkoxyalkyl oder Alkoxyaryl mit jeweils bis zu 18 C-Atomen, wobei die Gesamtzahl der C-Atome in Ra, Rb und Rc vorzugsweise maximal 20 ist; R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
A" ist ein übliches Gegenanion und ist vorzugsweise Chlorid. A " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
Kationische, also quaternisierte Cellulosen sind mit unterschiedlichem Substitutionsgrad, kationischer Ladungsdichte, Stickstoffgehalt und Molekulargewichten auf dem Markt erhältlich. Beispielsweise wird Polyquaternium-67 im Handel unter den Bezeichnungen Polymer® SL oder Polymer® SK (Amerchol) angeboten. Unter der Handelsbezeichnung Mirustyle® CP der Fa. Croda wird eine weitere höchst bevorzugte Cellulose angeboten. Diese ist eine Trimonium and Cocodimonium Hydroxyethylcellulose als derivatisierte Cellulose mit der INCI-Bezeichnung
Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 kann sowohl in fester Form als auch bereits in wässriger Lösung vorgelöst verwendet werden. Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethyl cellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
Weitere kationische Cellulosen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Polymer JR® 400 (Amerchol, INCI- Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-10) sowie Polymer Quatrisoft® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-24). Weitere Handelsprodukte sind die Verbindungen Celquat® H 100 und Cel- quat® L 200. Schließlich liegt unter der Handelsbezeichnung Mirustyle® CP der Fa. Croda mit Trimonium and Cocodimonium Hydroxyethylcellulose eine weitere derivatisierte Cellulose mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-72 vor. Polyquaternium-72 kann sowohl in fester Form als auch bereits in wässriger Lösung vorgelöst verwendet werden. Besonders bevorzugte kationische Cellulosen sind Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 und Polyquaternium- 72. Other cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®. Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L are 200. Finally, located under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
Geeignete kationische Guarderivate werden unter der Handelsbezeichnung Jaguar® vertrieben und haben die INCI-Bezeichnung Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Weiterhin sind besonders geeignete kationische Guarderivate auch von der Fa. Hercules unter der Bezeichnung N-Hance® im Handel. Weitere kationische Guarderivate werden von der Fa. Cognis unter der Bezeichnung Cosmedia® vertrieben. Ein bevorzugtes kationisches Guarderivat ist das Handelsprodukt AquaCat® der Fa. Hercules. Bei diesem Rohstoff handelt es sich um ein bereits vorgelöstes kationisches Guarderivat. Die kationischen Guar-Derivate sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
Ein geeignetes Chitosan wird beispielsweise von der Firma Kyowa Oil& Fat, Japan, unter dem Handelsnamen Flonac® vertrieben. Ein bevorzugtes Chitosansalz ist Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarboxylat, welches beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Kytamer® PC von der Firma Amerchol, USA, vertrieben wird. Weitere Chitosanderivate sind unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF und Chitolam® NB/101 im Handel frei verfügbar. A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
Schließlich sind auch kationische Polymere auf der Basis von Zuckern erfindungsgemäß mit Vorzug verwendbar. Finally, cationic polymers based on sugars can also be used according to the invention with preference.
Derartige Verbindungen sind beispielsweise kationische Alkyloligoglucoside wie in der folgenden Abbildung gezeigt. Such compounds are, for example, cationic alkyl oligoglucosides as shown in the following figure.
In der zuvor dargestellten Formel stehen die Reste R unabhängig voneinander für einen linearen oder verzweigten C6 bis C30 Alkylrest, einen linearen oder verzweigten C6 - C30 Alkenylrest, vorzugsweise steht der Rest R für einen Rest R ausgewählt aus: Lauryl, Myristyl, Cetyl, Stearyl, Oleyl, Behenyl oder Arachidyl. In the formula shown above, the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
Die Reste R1 stehen unabhängig voneinander für einen linearen oder verzweigten C6 bis C30 Alkylrest, einen linearen oder verzweigten C6 bis C30 Alkenylrest, vorzugsweise steht der Rest R für einen Rest ausgewählt aus: Butyl, Capryl, Caprylyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decanyl, Lauryl, Myristyl, Cetyl, Stearyl, Oleyl, Behenyl oder Arachidyl. Besonders bevorzugt sind die Reste R1 gleich. Noch bevorzugter sind die Reste R1 ausgewählt aus technischen Mischungen der Fettalkoholschnitte aus C6/C8 - Fettalkoholen, C8/C10 - Fettalkoholen, C10/C12 - Fettalkoholen, C12/C14 - Fettalkoholen, C12 / C18 - Fettalkoholen, und höchst bevorzugt sind hierbei diejenigen technischen Fettalkoholschnitte, welche pflanzlichen Ursprunges sind. The radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same. More preferably, the radicals R1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
Die zuvor dargestellten kationischen Alkyloligoglucoside können beispielsweise aus üblichen Alkyloligoglucosiden hergestellt werden. Die Alkyloligoglucoside werden in diesem Falle nach üblichen Methoden zu quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen umgesetzt. Bei den Alkyl- oder Alkenyloligoglykosiden kann es sich um bekannte nichtionische Tenside handeln. Diese Zuckertenside stellen bekannte nichtionische Tenside gemäß Formel (I) dar, The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides described above can be prepared, for example, from customary alkyl oligoglucosides. The Alkyloligoglucoside be implemented in this case by conventional methods to quaternary ammonium compounds. The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be known nonionic surfactants. These sugar surfactants are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),
R10-[G]p (I) R 1 0- [G] p (I)
in der R für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. in which R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.
Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (I) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 30. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 20 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1 , 1 bis 20,0 eingesetzt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 30, vorzugsweise 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, besonders bevorzugt 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Octanol, Nonanol, Decanol, Undecylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol sowie technische Mischungen aus und mit diesen Alkoholen. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 30. While p in the single molecule must always be an integer and can take here especially the values p = 1 to 20, the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 20.0. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 30, preferably 6 to 24, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and technical mixtures of and with these alcohols.
Die Quaternierung der Alkyloligoglukoside kann beispielsweise mit quarternären Ammoniumsalzen wie beispielsweise N,N-Dimethyl-N-(n-Alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammoniumhalogen- iden durchgeführt werden. Die Kettenlänge der Alkylgruppe beträgt vorzugsweise 6 bis 30, bevorzugter 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatome. The quaternization of the alkyloligoglucosides can be carried out, for example, with quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halide. The chain length of the alkyl group is preferably 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
Besonders bevorzugte Beispiele für die kationischen Alkyloligoglucoside sind die Verbindungen mit den INCI - Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79,
Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 und Polyquaternium-82. Höchst bevorzugt sind die kationischen Alkyloligoglucoside mit den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 und Polyquaternium-82. Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds with the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.
Derartige Verbindungen können beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Poly Suga® Quat von der Fa. Colonial Chemical Inc. bezogen werden. Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
Die kationischen Alkyloligoglucoside werden in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 10,0 Gew.%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 bis 5,0 Gew.%, noch bevorzugter von 0,1 bis 3,0 Gew.% und höchst bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,2 bis 2,0 Gew.% jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung verwendet. Erfindungsgemäß umfaßt ist selbstverständlich auch, daß Mischungen von kationischen Alkyloligoglucosiden verwendet werden können. Bevorzugt ist in diesem Falle, wenn jeweils ein langkettiges und ein kurzkettiges kationisches Alkyloligoglucosid gleichzeitig verwendet werden. The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Of course, it is also included in the invention that mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.
Ein weiteres kationisches Polymer kann auf der Grundlage von Ethanolamin erhalten werden. Das Polymer ist unter der Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-71 im Handel erhältlich. Another cationic polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine. The polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.
Cl Cl Cl ci Cl Cl Cl ci
Dieses Polymer kann beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Cola® Moist 300 P von der Fa. Colonial Chemical Inc. bezogen werden. This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.
Das Polyquaternium-71 wird in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 10,0 Gew.%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 bis 5,0 Gew.%, noch bevorzugter von 0,1 bis 3,0 Gew.% und höchst bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,2 bis 2,0 Gew.% jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung verwendet. Weitere bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise The polyquaternium-71 is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in Amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat® 50, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid- Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere mit der INCI - Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-7,
Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550 und der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 sowie FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI - designation Polyquaternium-7, Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat® 755 N und Gafquat® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und die INCI - Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-1 1 , quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,
quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium- 18 und Polyquaternium-27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex® SF 40 angeboten werden. Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
Erfindungsgemäße amphotere Polymere sind solche Polymerisate, in denen sich eine kationische Amphoteric polymers of the invention are those polymers in which a cationic
Gruppe ableitet von mindestens einem der folgenden Monomere: Group derives from at least one of the following monomers:
(i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Monol ), (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),
R -CH=CR2-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N(+)R2R3R4 A(_) (Monol ) R -CH = CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A (_) (monol)
in der R und R2 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R3, R4und R5 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A<_) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, in which R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A <_) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
(ii) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono2),
(ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),
worin R6 und R7 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C-ι bis C4)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und wherein R 6 and R 7 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
A" das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, A "is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
(iii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Mono3), (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),
R8-CH=CR9-COOH (Mono3) R 8 -CH = CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
in denen R8 und R9 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind. in which R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Polymerisate, bei denen Monomere des Typs (i) eingesetzt werden, bei denen R3, R4 und R5 Methylgruppen sind, Z eine NH-Gruppe und A<_) ein Halogenid-, Methoxysulfat- oder Ethoxysulfat-Ion ist; Acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammoniumchlorid ist ein besonders bevorzugtes Monomeres (i). Als Monomeres (ii) für die genannten Polymerisate wird bevorzugt Acrylsäure verwendet.
Besonders bevorzugte amphotere Polymere sind Copolymere, aus mindestens einem Monomer (Monol ) bzw. (Mono2) mit dem Momomer (Mono3), insbesondere Copolymere aus den Monomeren (Mono2) und (Mono3). Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt verwendete amphotere Polymere sind Copolymerisate aus Diallyl-dimethylammoniumchlorid und Acrylsäure. Diese Copolymerisate werden unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-22 unter anderem mit dem Handelsnamen Merquat® 280 (Nalco) vertrieben. Particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used, in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A <_) a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used. Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
Darüber hinaus können die erfindungsgemäßen amphoteren Polymere neben einem Monomer In addition, the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer
(Monol ) oder (Mono2) und einem Monomer (Mono3) zusätzlich ein Monomer (Mono4) (Monol) or (mono 2) and one monomer (mono 3) additionally one monomer (mono 4)
(iv) monomere Carbonsäureamide der allgemeinen Formel (Mono4),
(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),
in denen R 0 und R unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R 2 für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C-r bis C8)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten. in which R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (Cr to C 8 ) -alkyl group.
Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt verwendete amphotere Polymere auf Basis eines Comonomers (Mono4) sind Terpolymere aus Diallyldimethylammoniumchlorid, Acrylamid und Acrylsäure. Diese Copolymerisate werden unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-39 unter anderem mit dem Handelsnamen Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco) vertrieben. Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
Die amphoteren Polymere können generell sowohl direkt als auch in Salzform, die durch Neutralisation der Polymerisate, beispielsweise mit einem Alkalihydroxid, erhalten wird, erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
Die zuvor genannten kationischen Polymere können einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander verwendet werden, wobei Mengen zwischen 0,01 bis 10 Gew.%, bevorzugt, Mengen von 0,01 bis 7,5 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 5,0 Gew.% enthalten sind. Die allerbesten Ergebnisse werden dabei mit Mengen von 0, 1 bis 3,0 Gew.% jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung des jeweiligen Mittels erhalten. The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthalten die Haarkonditioniermittel zur weiteren Steigerung der Haarpflege zusätzlich 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 12 Gew.- % und insbesondere 0,25 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens einer Öl-, Wachs- und/oder Fettkomponente. Diese verleiht(en) den Haaren eine verbesserte Kämmbarkeit und dient(en) als äußert wirkungsvolle Rückfettungsmittel. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair conditioning agents additionally contain from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 12% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 10% by weight, of at least one oil to further increase hair care , Wax and / or fat component. This gives the hair improved combability and serves as an extremely effective moisturizing agent.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Öl-, Wachs- und/oder Fettkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus natürlichen und synthetischen Ölkomponenten und/oder Fettstoffen. Oil, wax and / or fat components which are suitable according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
Als natürliche (pflanzliche) Öle werden üblicherweise Triglyceride und Mischungen von Triglyceriden eingesetzt. Bevorzugte natürliche Öle im Sinne der Erfindung sind Kokosnussöl, (süßes) Mandelöl, Walnussöl, Pfirsichkernöl, Aprikosenkernol, Avocadoöl, Teebaumöl (Tea Tree Oil), Sojaöl, Sesamöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Tsubakiöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Reiskleieöl, Palmkernöl, Mangokernöl, Wiesenschaumkrautöl, Distelöl, Macadamianussöl, Traubenkernöl, Amaranthsamenöl, Arganöl, Bambusöl, Olivenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Kürbiskernöl, Malvenöl,
Haselnussöl, Safloröl, Canolaöl, Sasanquaöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaoabutter und Shea-Butter. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind Mandelöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Arganöl, Olivenöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaobutter und Shea-Butter. Die pflanzlichen Öle können in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermittels sowohl einzeln, als auch als Mischung mehrerer Öle eingesetzt werden. As natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used. Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, Hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter. Almond oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter are particularly preferred. The vegetable oils can be used both individually and as a mixture of several oils in the hair conditioning agent according to the invention.
Als mineralische Öle kommen insbesondere Mineralöle, Paraffin- und Isoparaffinöle sowie synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe zum Einsatz. Ein erfindungsgemäß einsetzbarer Kohlenwasserstoff ist beispielsweise das als Handelsprodukt erhältliche 1 ,3-Di-(2-ethylhexyl)- cyclohexan (Cetiol® S). As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
Als synthetische Öle kommen weiterhin Silikonverbindungen in Betracht. As synthetic oils further silicone compounds come into consideration.
Silikone bewirken auf dem Haar ausgezeichnete konditionierende Eigenschaften. Insbesondere bewirken sie eine bessere Kämmbarkeit der Haare in nassem und trockenem Zustand und wirken sich in vielen Fällen positiv auf den Haargriff und die Weichheit der Haare aus. Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Silikone sind ausgewählt unter: Silicones suitable according to the invention are selected from:
(i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind; (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
(ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: (ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:
a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;
b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; b) (per) fluorinated groups;
c) Thiolgruppen; c) thiol groups;
d) Carboxy latg ru ppen ; d) Carboxy latent ring;
e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; e) hydroxylated groups;
f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylated groups;
g) Acy loxyal kylg ru ppen ; g) Acyloxyalkylene ring;
h) amphoteren Gruppen; h) amphoteric groups;
i) Bisulfitgruppen; i) bisulfite groups;
j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; j) hydroxyacylamino groups;
k) Carboxygruppen; k) carboxy groups;
I) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und I) sulfonic acid groups; and
m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen; m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;
linearen Polysiloxan(A)- Polyoxyalkylen(B)- Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)n mit n > 3; linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) n with n>3;
gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silicon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
(v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan- Grundgerüst, auf das nicht siliconhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan- Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silicon enthält; grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers to which have been grafted non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;
(vi) oder deren Gemischen. (vi) or mixtures thereof.
Als Ölkomponente kann weiterhin ein Dialkylether dienen. As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Dialkylether sind insbesondere Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n- octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n- octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n- undecylether sowie Di-tert.-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n- octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methylpentyl-n-octy lether. Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether. n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and Di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist der Di-n-octylether, der im Handel unter der Bezeichnung Cetiol® OE erhältlich ist. According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung kann die Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombination durch weitere Fettstoffe noch weiter optimiert werden. Unter weiteren Fettstoffen sind zu verstehen Fettsäuren, Fettalkohole sowie natürliche und synthetische Wachse, welche sowohl in fester Form als auch flüssig in wässriger Dispersion vorliegen können. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active compound combination according to the invention can be further optimized by further fatty substances. Other fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
Als Fettsäuren können eingesetzt werden lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte Fettsäuren mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bevorzugt sind Fettsäuren mit 10 - 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Hierunter wären beispielsweise zu nennen die Isostearinsäuren, wie die Handelsprodukte Emersol® 871 und Emersol® 875, und Isopalmitinsäuren wie das Handelsprodukt Edenor® IP 95, sowie alle weiteren unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Edenor® (Cognis) vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, welche aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist in der Regel der Einsatz von Stearinsäure. The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
Die Einsatzmenge beträgt dabei 0, 1 - 15 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform beträgt die Menge 0,5 - 10 Gew.%, wobei ganz besonders vorteilhaft Mengen von 1 - 5 Gew.% sind. The amount used is 0, 1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.
Als Fettalkohole können eingesetzt werden gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit C6 - C30-, bevorzugt Ci0 - C22- und ganz besonders bevorzugt
C-12 - C22- Kohlenstoffatomen. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind beispielsweise Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol und Behenylalkohol, sowie deren Guerbetalkohole, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben soll. Die Fettalkohole stammen jedoch von bevorzugt natürlichen Fettsäuren ab, wobei üblicherweise von einer Gewinnung aus den Estern der Fettsäuren durch Reduktion ausgegangen werden kann. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind ebenfalls solche Fettalkoholschnitte, die durch Reduktion natürlich vorkommender Triglyceride wie Rindertalg, Palmöl, Erdnußöl, Rüböl, Baumwollsaatöl, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl und Leinöl oder aus deren Umesterungsprodukten mit entsprechenden Alkoholen entstehenden Fettsäureestern erzeugt werden, und somit ein Gemisch von unterschiedlichen Fettalkoholen darstellen. Solche Substanzen sind beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Stenol®, z.B. Stenol® 1618 oder Lanette®, z.B. Lanette® O oder Lorol®, z.B. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD- Ocenol®, Crodacol®, z.B. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 oder Isocarb® 24 käuflich zu erwerben. Selbstverständlich können erfindungsgemäß auch Wollwachsalkohole, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® oder Fluilan® käuflich zu erwerben sind, eingesetzt werden. As fatty alcohols can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably Ci 0 - C 2 2- and very particularly preferably C-12 - C22 carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
Die Fettalkohole werden in Mengen von 0,1 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 - 3 Gew.-% eingesetzt. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0, 1-3 wt .-%.
Als natürliche oder synthetische Wachse können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden feste Paraffine oder Isoparaffine, Carnaubawachse, Bienenwachse, Candelillawachse, Ozokerite, Ceresin, Walrat, Sonnenblumenwachs, Fruchtwachse wie beispielsweise Apfelwachs oder Citruswachs, Microwachse aus PE- oder PP. Derartige Wachse sind beispielsweise erhältlich über die Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau. The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
Weitere Fettstoffe sind beispielsweise Other fatty substances are, for example
Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C6 - C30 - Fettsäuren mit C2 - C30 - Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C- Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Capryl- säure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol,
Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit® IPM), lsononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV-caprylat (Cetiol® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol® V). Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol and Brassidylalkohol as well as their technical mixtures, which eg in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters on basis of fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis as well as Monomerfraktion with the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ® V).
Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di- isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol® CC), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls® 90-018, Monomuls® 90-L12, Cetiol® HE oder Cutina® MD. ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
Die Einsatzmenge der weiteren Fettstoffe beträgt 0, 1 - 20 Gew.-% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Bevorzugt sind 0, 1 - 10 Gew.% und besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 - 5 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. The amount used of other fatty substances is 0, 1 - 20 wt .-% based on the total agent. Preference is given to 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably 0 to 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total agent.
Besonders bevorzugt im Hinblick auf optimalen Haarglanz und hervorragende Kämmbarkeit sind erfindungsgemäße Haarkonditioniermittel, die als weitere Haarkonditionierende Komponente d) mindestens ein Silikonöl - vorzugsweise ein Dimethicon - und/oder mindestens ein pflanzliches Öl enthalten. Diese Öle lassen sich in die erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermittel einzeln oder als Gemisch in einer Menge bis zu 15 Gew.-% einarbeiten, ohne dass die Einphasigkeit und/oder die Stabilität der Mittel darunter leidet. Des weiteren wird die erforderliche Viskosität der Mittel für eine Sprühapplikation trotz des hohen Gehalts der vorgenannten bevorzugten Haarkonditionierenden Öle erreicht. Particularly preferred with regard to optimum hair shine and excellent combability are hair conditioning compositions according to the invention which contain as further hair conditioning component d) at least one silicone oil - preferably a dimethicone - and / or at least one vegetable oil. These oils can be incorporated into the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention individually or as a mixture in an amount of up to 15% by weight, without the single phase and / or the stability of the compositions suffering therefrom. Furthermore, the required viscosity of the means for spray application is achieved despite the high content of the aforementioned preferred hair conditioning oils.
Vitamine sind für die Gesundheit von Haut und Haaren unentbehrlich. Da sie auch bei äußerer Anwendung eine günstige Wirkung zeigen, werden sie kosmetischen Präparaten oftmals zugesetzt. Es wurde gefunden, dass das erfindungsgemäße Polymer a) in den Haarkonditioniermitteln neben der Abscheidung der Komponenten b) und d) auf den Haaren auch die Abscheidung weiterer Pflegestoffe - wie auch Vitaminen - stimulieren kann.
Unter erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten sind solche Vertreter zu verstehen, die üblicherweise den Gruppen A, B, C, E, F und H zugeordnet werden. Vitamins are indispensable for the health of the skin and hair. Since they have a beneficial effect even when used externally, they are often added to cosmetic preparations. It has been found that the polymer according to the invention a) in the hair conditioning agents in addition to the deposition of the components b) and d) on the hair and the deposition of other care substances - as well as vitamins - can stimulate. In accordance with the invention preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof are those representatives which are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
Zur Gruppe der als Vitamin A bezeichneten Substanzen gehören das Retinol (Vitamin A-i) sowie das 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2). Das ß-Carotin ist das Provitamin des Retinols. Als Vitamin A-Komponente kommen erfindungsgemäß beispielsweise Vitamin A-Säure und deren Ester, Vitamin A-Aldehyd und Vitamin A-Alkohol sowie dessen Ester wie das Palmitat und das Acetat in Betracht. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Vitamin A-Komponente bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören u. a. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
Vitamin B-ι (Thiamin) Vitamin B-ι (thiamine)
Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.- %, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist. Vitamin B 3 . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie kationische Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B5-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1 - 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal). Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure). Vitamin C wird in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel eingesetzt. Die Verwendung in Form des Palmitinsäureesters, der Glucoside oder Phosphate kann bevorzugt sein. Die Verwendung in Kombination mit Tocopherolen kann ebenfalls bevorzugt sein. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol). Tocopherol und seine Derivate, worunter insbesondere die Ester wie das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat fallen, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin F. Unter dem Begriff "Vitamin F" werden üblicherweise essentielle Fettsäuren, insbesondere Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
Vitamin H. Als Vitamin H wird die Verbindung (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]- imidazol-4-valeriansäure bezeichnet, für die sich aber inzwischen der Trivialname Biotin durchgesetzt hat. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.
Bevorzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, B, E und H. Panthenol, Pantolacton, Pyridoxin und seine Derivate sowie Nicotinsäureamid und Biotin sind besonders bevorzugt und werden den erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermitteln sowohl einzeln, als auch in ihrer Kombination zugesetzt. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred and are added to the hair conditioning agents according to the invention either individually or in their combination ,
Ein weiterer erfindungsgemäßer fakultativer aber bevorzugter Wirkstoff in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mit dem erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkomplex sind Proteinhydrolysate und/oder deren Derivate, denn sie unterstützen die Kräftigung der Haarstruktur und verhindern das Austrocknen der Haare. Another inventive optional but preferred active ingredient in the compositions of the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives, because they support the strengthening of the hair structure and prevent the hair from drying out.
Erfindungsgemäß können Proteinhydrolysate sowohl pflanzlichen als auch tierischen oder marinen oder synthetischen Ursprungs eingesetzt werden. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
Tierische Proteinhydrolysate sind beispielsweise Elastin-, Kollagen-, Keratin-, Seiden- und Milchei- weiß-Proteinhydrolysate, die auch in Form von Salzen vorliegen können. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) und Kerasol® (Croda) vertrieben. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
Weiterhin sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte pflanzliche Proteinhydrolysaten wie beispielsweise Soja-, Mandel-, Erbsen-, Kartoffel- und Weizenproteinhydrolysate. Solche Produkte sind beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) und Crotein® (Croda) erhältlich. Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Proteinhydrolysate sind maritimen Ursprunges. Hierzu zählen beispielsweise Kollagenhydrolysate von Fischen oder Algen sowie Proteinhydrolysate von Muscheln bzw. Perlenhydrolysate. Beispiele für erfindungsgemäße Perlenextrakte sind die Handelsprodukte Pearl Protein Extract BG® oder Crodarom® Pearl. Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
Besonders bevorzugt werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermitteln Keratin-, Seiden-, Milcheiweiß-, Weizen- und/oder Sojaproteinhydrolysate eingesetzt. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind Keratin- und/oder Weizenproteinhydrolysate. Particular preference is given to using keratin, silk, milk protein, wheat and / or soy protein hydrolysates in the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is given to keratin and / or wheat protein hydrolysates.
Die Proteinhydrolysate sind in den Zusammensetzungen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - in Mengen von 0,001 Gew.-% bis zu 20 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 Gew.-% bis zu 15 Gew.-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 Gew.-% bis zu 5 Gew.-% enthalten. The protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions in amounts of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and most preferably in amounts, based on their total weight from 0.05% to 5% by weight.
Eine fakultative, aber bevorzugte weitere Komponente zur Stabilisierung der erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermittel ist ein nichtionisches Tensid und/oder ein nichtionischer Emulgator. Nichtionische Tenside und/oder nichtionische Emulgatoren werden den erfindungsgemäßen Haarkonditioniermitteln - bezogen auf deren Gewicht - einzeln oder in ihrer Kombination in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 7,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere in Mengen von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-% zugegeben.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete nichtionische Tenside enthalten als hydrophile Gruppe z. B. eine Polyolgruppe, eine Polyalkylenglykolethergruppe oder eine Kombination aus einer Polyol- und einer Polyglykolethergruppe. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweise An optional but preferred further component for stabilizing the hair conditioning agents according to the invention is a nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier. Nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers are the hair conditioning agents according to the invention - by weight - individually or in combination in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% added. According to the invention suitable nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of a polyol and a polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example
Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C- Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
mit einem Methyl- oder C2-C6- Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen, with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ® LS, LT Dehydol ® types (Cognis),
Ci2-C30-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, C 12 -C 30 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl, beispielsweise Rizinusöl-hydriert+40 EO, wie es beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Cremophor CO 455 von der Firma SHC im Handel erhältlich ist, Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, for example castor oil-hydrogenated + 40 EO, as it is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Cremophor CO 455 from SHC,
Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol - Typen (Cognis), Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
alkoxilierte Triglyceride, alkoxylated triglycerides,
alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (V) alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (V)
R 14C O (O C H 2C H R 15)wO R 16 (V ) R 14C O (OCH 2 CHR 15) w OR 16 (V)
in der R 4CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R 5 für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R 6 für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,in R 4 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 5 is hydrogen or methyl, R 6 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
Aminoxide, Amine oxides,
Hydroxymischether, hydroxy mixed,
Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester, Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine, Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide, Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides,
Alkylpolygykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)x wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können lediglich einen bestimmten Alkylrest R enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den
Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor. Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglykoside, bei denen R Alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to Starting compounds or according to the respective workup of these compounds. Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R
im wesentlichen aus C8- und C10-Alkylgruppen, essentially C 8 and C 10 alkyl groups,
im wesentlichen aus C12- und C14-Alkylgruppen, consisting essentially of C 12 and C 14 -alkyl groups,
im wesentlichen aus C8- bis Ci6-Alkylgruppen oder essentially of C 8 - to C 6 -alkyl or
im wesentlichen aus d2- bis Ci6-Alkylgruppen oder consisting essentially of d 2 - to Ci 6 alkyl groups or
im wesentlichen aus Ci6 bis Ci8-Alkylgruppen besteht. consisting essentially of Ci 6 to Ci 8 alkyl groups.
Als Zuckerbaustein Z können beliebige Mono- oder Oligosaccharide eingesetzt werden. Üblicherweise werden Zucker mit 5 bzw. 6 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie die entsprechenden Oligosaccharide eingesetzt. Solche Zucker sind beispielsweise Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Mannose, Gulose, Idose, Talose und Sucrose. Bevorzugte Zuckerbausteine sind Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose und Sucrose; Glucose ist besonders bevorzugt. As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside enthalten im Schnitt 1 ,1 bis 5 Zucker einheiten. Alkylpolyglykoside mit x-Werten von 1 , 1 bis 2,0 sind bevorzugt. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind Alkylglykoside, bei denen x 1 ,1 bis 1 ,8 beträgt. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
Auch die alkoxylierten Homologen der genannten Alkylpolyglykoside können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Diese Homologen können durchschnittlich bis zu 10 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxideinheiten pro Alkylglykosideinheit enthalten. The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
Bei den Tensiden, die Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylen- und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole oder Derivate dieser Anlagerungsprodukte darstellen, können sowohl Produkte mit einer "normalen" Homologenverteilung als auch solche mit einer eingeengten Homologenverteilung verwendet werden. Unter "normaler" Homologenverteilung werden dabei Mischungen von Homologen verstanden, die man bei der Umsetzung von Fettalkohol und Alkylenoxid unter Verwendung von Alkalimetallen, Alkalimetallhydroxiden oder Alkalimetallalkoholaten als Katalysatoren erhält. Eingeengte Homologenverteilungen werden dagegen erhalten, wenn beispielsweise Hydrotalcite, Erdalkalimetallsalze von Ethercarbonsäuren, Erdalkalimetalloxide, -hydroxide oder - alkoholate als Katalysatoren verwendet werden. Die Verwendung von Produkten mit eingeengter Homologenverteilung kann bevorzugt sein. In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
Besonders bevorzugte nichtionische Tenside sind Alkylpolyglucoside und Alkylenoxid-Anlage- rungsprodukte an gesättigte lineare Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren mit jeweils 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol Fettalkohol bzw. Fettsäure. Zubereitungen mit hervorragenden milden Eigenschaften werden ebenfalls erhalten, wenn sie als nichtionische Tenside Fettsäureester von ethoxyliertem Glycerin enthalten. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkylpolyglucosides and alkylene oxide adducts of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent mild properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Emulgatoren sind beispielsweise Emulsifiers suitable according to the invention are, for example
Erfindungsgemäß verwendbare Emulgatoren sind beispielsweise Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
Ci2-C22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin, Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, Ci2-C 2 2-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,
Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide, Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
C8-C22-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oli- gomerisierungsgrade von 1 , 1 bis 5, insbesondere 1 ,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind, C 8 -C 2 2-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component being preferred,
Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov®68, Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl, Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C- Atomen, Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid- Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert. Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden. Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit, Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
Polyglycerine und Polyglycennderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerols and Polyglycennderivate such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C - Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn - Salze. Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
Die Emulgatoren werden bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 - 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 - 15 Gew.- The emulsifiers are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight.
%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt. %, based on the total mean.
Geeignete nichtionogene Polymere sind beispielsweise: Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol® VA 64 und Luviskol® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere. Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhy- droxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal® und Benecel® (AQUALON) und Natrosol®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke; Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules). Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers, for example Structure XL (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
Schellack shellac
Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ® (BASF).
Die nichtionischen Polymere sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Die Polymere sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 bis 25, insbesondere von 0,01 bis 15 Gew.-%, sind besonders bevorzugt. The polymers are preferably contained in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
Die Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen kann weiterhin durch eine 2- Pyrrolidinon-5-carbonsäure und deren Derivate (J) gesteigert werden. Bevorzugt sind die Natrium-, Kalium-, Calcium-, Magnesium- oder Ammoniumsalze, bei denen das Ammoniumion neben Wasserstoff eine bis drei d- bis C4-Alkylgruppen trägt. Das Natriumsalz ist ganz besonders bevorzugt. Die eingesetzten Mengen in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln betragen 0,05 bis 10 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 5, und insbesondere 0,1 bis 3 Gew.%. The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
Schließlich ergeben sich durch die Verwendung von Pflanzenextrakten in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen weitere Vorteile. Erfindungsgemäß sind vor allem die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Henna, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Weißdorn, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Fichtennadel, Roßkastanie, Sandelholz, Wacholder, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Malve, Baldrian, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Thymian, Melisse, Hauhechel, Huflattich, Eibisch, Meristem, Ginseng, Kaffee, Kakao, Moringa und Ingwerwurzel bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß kann es höchst bevorzugt sein, wenn als Pflanzenextrakte sogenannte ayurvedische Pflanzenextrakte verwendet werden. Zu den traditionellen ayurvedischen Pflanzen zählen Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum und Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Finally, the use of plant extracts in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root. According to the invention, it may be highly preferred if so-called Ayurvedic plant extracts are used as plant extracts. Traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala).
Als weiteren wesentlichen Inhaltsstoff können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel Purin und/oder Derivat(e) des Purins enthalten. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen enthalten Purin und/oder Purinderivate in engeren Mengenbereichen. Hier sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,001 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0025 bis 1 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,01 bis 0, 1 Gew.-% Purin(e) und/oder Purinderivat(e) enthalten. As a further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine. Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
Unter Purin, den Purinen und den Purinderivaten sind erfindungsgemäß folgende Verbindungen bevorzugt: Purin, Adenin, Guanin, Harnsäure, Hypoxanthin, 6-Purinthiol, 6-Thioguanin, Xanthin, Coffein, Theobromin und Theophyllin. In haarkosmetischen Formulierungen hat sich insbesondere Coffein bewährt, das beispielsweise in Shampoos, Conditionern, Haarwässern und/oder Lotionen
vorzugsweise in Mengen von 0,005 bis 0,25 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt von 0,01 bis 0, 1 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,01 bis 0,05 Gew.-% (jeweils bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung) eingesetzt werden kann. Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, the following compounds are preferred according to the invention: purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline. Caffeine has proven particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 0.25 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the composition) can be.
Ein weiterer bevorzugter Wirkstoff zur zusätzlichen Verwendung in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln ist Taurin und/oder ein Derivat des Taurines. Unter Taurin wird ausschließlich 2- Aminoethansulfonsäure und sowie explizit genannte Derivate des Taurines verstanden. Unter den Derivaten des Taurines werden N-Monomethyltaurin und Ν,Ν-Dimethyltaurin verstanden. Als weitere Taurinderivate werden auch Taurine verstanden, welche als Stoffwechselprodukte im pflanzlichen und/oder tierischen und/oder marinen Organismen natürlicherweise vorkommen. Hierzu zählen beispielsweise, wenn auch nicht bevorzugt, Abbauprodukte des Cysteines, insbesondere die Cysteinsulfinsäure. Weitere Taurinderivate im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die Taurocholsäure und Hypotaurin. Another preferred active ingredient for additional use in the compositions of the invention is taurine and / or a derivative of taurine. Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. The derivatives of taurine are understood as meaning N-monomethyltaurine and Ν, Ν-dimethyltaurine. Other taurine derivatives also include taurines, which naturally occur as metabolites in plant and / or animal and / or marine organisms. These include, for example, although not preferred, degradation products of cysteine, especially cysteine sulfinic acid. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
Besonders bevorzugte sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,0001 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0005 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 2,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-% Taurin und/oder eines Derivates des Taurines enthalten. Zusätzlich kann es sich als vorteilhaft erweisen, wenn in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Penetrationshilfsstoffe und/ oder Quellmittel (M) enthalten sind. Hierzu sind beispielsweise zu zählen Harnstoff und Harnstoffderivate, Guanidin und dessen Derivate, Arginin und dessen Derivate, Wasserglas, Imidazol und dessen Derivate, Histidin und dessen Derivate, Benzylalkohol, Glycerin, Glykol und Glykolether, Propylenglykol und Propylenglykolether, beispielsweise Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Diole und Triole, und insbesondere 1 ,2-Diole und 1 ,3-Diole wie beispielsweise 1 ,2-Propandiol, 1 ,2-Pentandiol, 1 ,2- Hexandiol, 1 ,2-Dodecandiol, 1 ,3-Propandiol, 1 ,6-Hexandiol, 1 ,5-Pentandiol, 1 ,4-Butandiol. Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
Eine besonders bevorzugte Gruppe von Quellmitteln können Hydantoine sein. Erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen enthalten bevorzugt 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-% Hydantoin bzw. mindestens eines Hydatoinderivates. Besonders bevorzugt werden erfindungsgemäß Hydantoinderivate eingesetzt, wobei 5-Ureidohydantoin besonders bevorzugt ist. Unabhängig davon, ob Hydantoin oder Hydantoinderivat(e) eingesetzt wird/werden, sind Einsatzmengen von 0,02 bis 2,5 Gew.-% ganz besonders bevorzugt, von 0,05 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,075 bis 1 Gew.-% und A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 5% by weight of hydantoin or at least one hydatoin derivative. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and
Ferner können die kosmetischen Mittel weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe enthalten, wie beispielsweise Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure, Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine, Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels, Dyes for staining the agent,
Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol, Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
Cholesterin, Cholesterol,
Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, ß-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren, Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
Pigmente, pigments
Antioxidantien.
Die erfindungsgemäßen einphasigen Haarkonditioniermittel weisen vorzugsweise einen pH-Wert im aciden Bereich von 2 bis 6,5, bevorzugt von 2,4 bis 6,0 und insbesondere von 2,8 bis 5,5 auf. Antioxidants. The monophasic hair conditioning agents according to the invention preferably have a pH in the acidic range of from 2 to 6.5, preferably from 2.4 to 6.0 and in particular from 2.8 to 5.5.
Bezüglich weiterer fakultativer Komponenten sowie die eingesetzten Mengen dieser Komponenten wird ausdrücklich auf die dem Fachmann bekannten einschlägigen Handbücher verwiesen. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.
Wie bereits genannt, eignen sich die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel insbesondere zur Pflege der Haare und verbessern insbesondere die Kämmbarkeit, die Elastizität, das Volumen und den Glanz der Haare. As already mentioned, the compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for hair care and in particular improve the combability, the elasticity, the volume and the gloss of the hair.
Ein dritter Gegenstand der Erfindung ist daher die kosmetische Verwendung des erfindungsgemäßen einphasigen Haarkonditioniermittels zur Erhöhung der Haarelastizität, des Haarglanzes und des Haarvolumens sowie zur Verbesserung der Kämmbarkeit. A third aspect of the invention is therefore the cosmetic use of the monophasic hair conditioner according to the invention for increasing hair elasticity, hair shine and hair volume and for improving combability.
Ein vierter Gegenstand der Erfindung ist ein kosmetisches Verfahren zur Pflege von Haaren, bei dem das erfindungsgemäße einphasige Haarkonditioniermittel - vorzugsweise nach der Haarreinigung - auf die trockenen oder nassen Haare gesprüht und bis zur nächsten Haarreinigung auf den Haaren belassen wird. A fourth object of the invention is a cosmetic method for the care of hair, in which the inventive single-phase hair conditioner - preferably after hair cleaning - sprayed on the dry or wet hair and left until the next hair cleaning on the hair.
B e i s p i e l e B e i s p e e l e
Die folgenden Beispiele sollen den Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung erläutern ohne ihn jedoch zu beschränken. The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.
Die angegebenen Mengen beziehen sich - sofern nicht anders angegeben - auf Gew.-%. Die Herstellung erfolgte nach dem beschriebenen Verfahren. Die Schritte sind in der Tabelle des folgenden Beispieles entasprechend dem erfindungsgemäßen Herstellverfahren aufgeführt. The amounts indicated are - unless otherwise stated - to wt .-%. The preparation was carried out according to the described method. The steps are listed in the table of the following example, corresponding to the production process according to the invention.
Haargel: hair gel:
gemessen mit einem Brookfield-Viskosimeter DV-II, Spindel 4 bei 20 UpM (20 s) und bei 20°C.
measured with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 4 at 20 rpm (20 s) and at 20 ° C.
Claims
Patentansprüche: claims:
Transparentes haarkonditionierendes Mittel in Gelform, enthaltend Transparent hair conditioning agent in gel form containing
a) ein kationisches Polymer, bestehend aus mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (I) und gegebenenfalls einem Monomer der Formel (II) a) a cationic polymer consisting of at least one monomer of the formula (I) and, if appropriate, of a monomer of the formula (II)
(I) (II), (I) (II),
in welchen R1 bis R9 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff,
Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butyl oder tert-Butyl bedeuten mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R6, R7, R8 oder R9 d^-Alkyl bedeutet, n für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 8, und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion wie Halogenid, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Hydrogensulfat oder Methosulfat, steht, in which R1 to R9 independently of one another hydrogen, Methyl, ethyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl, with the proviso that at least one of R 6, R 7, R 8 or R 9 is d ^ -alkyl, n is an integer from 1 to 8 and A is a physiologically acceptable anion such as halide, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, hydrogen sulfate or methosulfate,
mindestens eine kationische Verbindung der Formel (Tkat2), at least one cationic compound of the formula (Tkat2),
in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, lodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RS03 ", worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat steht, und in which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, and
mindestens 15,0 bis 55,0 Gew.% mindestens einer Polyhydroxyverbindung ausgewählt aus Glykol und/oder Glycerin und/oder 1 ,2-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,3-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,2-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,5-Pentandiol und/oder 1 ,2-Hexandiol und/oder 1 ,6- Hexandiol und/oder deren Mischungen und at least 15.0 to 55.0% by weight of at least one polyhydroxy compound selected from glycol and / or glycerol and / or 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 1, 3-propylene glycol and / or 1, 2-pentanediol and / or 1, 5-pentanediol and / or 1, 2-hexanediol and / or 1, 6-hexanediol and / or mixtures thereof and
einen kosmetischen Träger. a cosmetic carrier.
2. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer kosmetischen Zusammensetzung gemäß Anspruch 1 , gekennzeichnet durch die folgenden Schritte: a) Vorquellen des kationischen Polymeren gemäß Anspruch 1 bei einer
Temperatur von 15 bis 50 °C, b) Hinzufügen des kationischen Tensides gemäß Anspruch 1 unter weiterem Rühren, 2. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized by the following steps: a) pre-swelling of the cationic polymer according to claim 1 in a Temperature of 15 to 50 ° C, b) adding the cationic surfactant according to claim 1 with further stirring,
c) Einstellen eine pH - Wertes von 4 bis 5, und hinzufügen von gegebenenfalls weiteren in Wasser löslichen Substanzen, d) Zugeben unter Rühren der Polyhydroxyverbindung gemäß Anspruch 1 und gegebenenfalls endgültige Einstellung des pH - Wertes der Zusammensetzung auf einen pH - Wert von 2 bis 6,5. c) adjusting a pH of 4 to 5, and optionally adding further water-soluble substances, d) adding with stirring the polyhydroxy compound according to claim 1 and optionally final adjustment of the pH of the composition to a pH of 2 to 6.5.
3. Haarkonditioniermittel nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es eine Viskosität von 15000 bis 50000 mPas (gemessen mit einem Brookfield-Viskosimeter DV-II, Spindel 4 bei 20 UpM (20 s) und bei 20°C) aufweist. 3. Hair conditioner according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a viscosity of 15,000 to 50,000 mPas (measured with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 4 at 20 rpm (20 s) and at 20 ° C).
4. Haarkonditioniermittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es eine Transparenz von mindestens von mindestens 50 bis 100! Gemessen nach DIN/EN 27027 aufweist. 4. Hair conditioner according to one of claims 1 or 3, characterized in that it has a transparency of at least 50 to 100! Measured according to DIN / EN 27027.
5. Haarkonditioniermittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 , 3 oder 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet , dass die Polyhydroxyverbindung ausgewählt ist aus Glykol, Glycerin, 1 ,2-Propylenglykol und/oder 1 ,3-Propylenglykol sowie deren Mischungen. 5. hair conditioning agent according to any one of claims 1, 3 or 4, characterized in that the polyhydroxy compound is selected from glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 1, 3-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
6. Haarkonditioniermittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 , 3, 4 oder 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es - bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht - zusätzlich 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 12 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,25 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens einer Öl-, Wachsund/oder Fettkomponente enthält. 6. hair conditioning agent according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4 or 5, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - additionally 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular 0 , 25 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oil, wax and / or fat component.
7. Haarkonditioniermittel nach Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es als Öl-, Wachsund/oder Fettkomponente mindestens ein Silikon und/oder mindestens ein pflanzliches Öl enthält. 7. Hair conditioner according to claim 6, characterized in that it contains as oil, wax and / or fat component at least one silicone and / or at least one vegetable oil.
8. Haarkonditioniermittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 , 3 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich mindestens einen Stoff aus der Gruppe der Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen und/oder mindestens einen Stoff aus der Gruppe der Proteinhydrolysate enthält. 8. hair conditioning agent according to any one of claims 1, 3 to 7, characterized in that additionally contains at least one substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and / or at least one substance from the group of protein hydrolysates.
9. Kosmetische Verwendung eines Haarkonditioniermittels nach einem der Ansprüche 1 , 3 bis 8 zur Erhöhung der Haarelastizität, des Haarglanzes, des Haarvolumens sowie zur Verbesserung der Kämmbarkeit. 9. Cosmetic use of a hair conditioner according to any one of claims 1, 3 to 8 for increasing the hair elasticity, the hair shine, the hair volume and to improve combability.
10. Kosmetisches Verfahren zur Pflege von Haaren, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass ein Haarkonditioniermittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 , 3 bis 8 - vorzugsweise nach der Haarreinigung - auf die trockenen oder nassen Haare aufgetragen wird und dort bis zur nächsten Haarreinigung auf den Haaren belassen wird.
10. A cosmetic method for the care of hair, characterized in that a hair conditioner according to any one of claims 1, 3 to 8 - preferably after the hair cleaning - is applied to the dry or wet hair and left there until the next hair cleaning on the hair.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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DE102012214046.8A DE102012214046A1 (en) | 2012-08-08 | 2012-08-08 | Single-phase transparent hair gel |
PCT/EP2013/064217 WO2014023492A2 (en) | 2012-08-08 | 2013-07-05 | Single-phase transparent hair gel |
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Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP2882416A2 true EP2882416A2 (en) | 2015-06-17 |
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EP13737572.1A Withdrawn EP2882416A2 (en) | 2012-08-08 | 2013-07-05 | Single-phase transparent hair gel |
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US (1) | US20150150779A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2882416A2 (en) |
DE (1) | DE102012214046A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2014023492A2 (en) |
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DE102014226410A1 (en) * | 2014-12-18 | 2016-06-23 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Means for temporarily deforming keratinous fibers with a mixture of conditioning polymers |
BR112021009838A2 (en) | 2018-12-31 | 2021-08-17 | L'oreal | cosmetic compositions and hair care method |
US20220401333A1 (en) * | 2021-06-15 | 2022-12-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Multi-function hair care composition |
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DE102008060147A1 (en) * | 2008-12-03 | 2010-06-10 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair conditioning agents with imidazolines and ester oils |
DE102009027963A1 (en) * | 2009-07-23 | 2011-01-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair conditioning agents with cationic imidazolines and selected cationic silicones |
DE102009046873A1 (en) * | 2009-11-19 | 2011-05-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Single-phase hair cure |
DE102010031318A1 (en) * | 2010-07-14 | 2012-01-19 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair conditioning compositions |
WO2012030750A2 (en) * | 2010-09-02 | 2012-03-08 | Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. | Polymers and compositions |
DE102010041496A1 (en) * | 2010-09-28 | 2012-03-29 | Beiersdorf Ag | Hair-treatment agent in spray form (leave-in) with imidazolines |
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2012
- 2012-08-08 DE DE102012214046.8A patent/DE102012214046A1/en not_active Withdrawn
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2013
- 2013-07-05 EP EP13737572.1A patent/EP2882416A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2013-07-05 WO PCT/EP2013/064217 patent/WO2014023492A2/en active Application Filing
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WO2014023492A2 (en) | 2014-02-13 |
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