DE102010063584A1 - Cationic styrene / acrylate copolymers in hair treatment agents - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents which, in a cosmetic carrier, contain a) at least one cationic copolymer X, which contains the monomers butyl acrylate, trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride and styrene, and b) at least one active substance which positively influences the metabolic activity on the hair root, selected from - Biotin, - bioquinones, - taurine, - pantolactone, - creatine, - theophylline, - caffeine, - carnitine, - an extract from rice, soybean, corn, wheat, rapeseed, algae and / or echinacea, and / or - a physiologically compatible one Salt and / or derivative of these active ingredients. The hair cleaning and / or hair conditioning agents impart advantageous properties to the hair treated with them, in particular an increased hair volume.

Description

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions containing a cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer and at least one active substance influencing the metabolic activity at the hair root.

The invention further relates to the use of the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents for increasing the hair volume and / or the cell activity of the scalp and / or the hair root.

In addition to their actual physiological role, such as thermal insulation and light protection, human hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, including age-related, in hair growth, hair density, hair color and / or hair structure can lead to a massive impairment of the self-esteem of the person concerned.

The preparation of cosmetic hair treatment compositions with which the above-mentioned undesirable changes in the hair can be alleviated, eliminated, prevented and / or delayed, is therefore long sought.

Individual hair treatment agents are known from the trade, which can have a positive effect on keratin synthesis, hair growth, hair structure and / or hair color. From consumers, however, from time, cost and environmental aspects increasingly so-called combination preparations are desired, which in addition to all the above requirements also ensure hair cleaning and / or hair care.

Combination preparations often have the disadvantage that they contain a large number of very different cosmetic active ingredients, which interact with each other in an undesirable interaction and can deactivate.

Furthermore, combined preparations often require a great deal of time, energy and / or expense in their preparation, since the incorporation of some active ingredients is only possible by means of special stabilization steps and / or additional stabilizing agents.

Therefore, there is still a need for stable hair treatment agents that can positively affect the metabolic activity of the hair root during cleaning and / or conditioning.

It is an object of the present invention to provide stable hair treatment compositions with which hair can be satisfactorily cleansed and cared for.

At the same time, the hair treatment compositions should contain suitable active ingredients and / or combinations of active ingredients which can alleviate, eliminate, prevent and / or delay unwanted (age-related) changes in the hair without compromising the stability of the compositions.

In particular, the hair treatment agents should positively affect keratin synthesis, hair growth, hair structure and / or hair repigmentation.

Another object of the invention was to find nourishing agents or drug combinations for hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning that do not over-condition and / or weight the hair, but give the hair a natural shine, suppleness and increased volume.

• a) mindestens ein kationisches Copolymer X, das die Monomere Butylacrylat, Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylatchlorid und Styrol enthält, und
• b) mindestens einen die Stoffwechselaktivität an der Haarwurzel positiv beeinflussenden Wirkstoff, ausgewählt aus – Biotin, – Ubichinon, – Taurin, – Pantolacton, – Kreatin, – Theophyllin, – Coffein, – Carnitin, – einem Extrakt aus Reis, Soja, Mais, Weizen, Raps, Algen und/oder Echinacea, und/oder – einem physiologisch verträglichen Salz und/oder Derivat dieser Wirkstoffe, enthalten.

The invention relates to hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents which are in a cosmetic carrier

• a) at least one cationic copolymer X containing the monomers butyl acrylate, trimethyl ammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride and styrene, and
• b) at least one active substance having a positive influence on the metabolic activity at the hair root, selected from - biotin, - ubiquinone, - taurine, - pantolactone, - creatine, - theophylline, - caffeine, - carnitine, - an extract from rice, soy, maize, wheat, rape, algae and / or echinacea, and / or - a physiologically acceptable salt and / or derivative of these active substances, contain.

The hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention comprise the components a) and b) in a cosmetic carrier, which may preferably be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.

The cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 40% by weight of water.

Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 60% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 45% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 40% by weight of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2- Pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.

Preference is given to the water-soluble alcohols.

Particularly preferred are ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.

The hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention can be formulated as a shampoo, rinse, hair conditioner, hair tonic, hair tonic, hair spray, hair tip fluid, foam aerosol, hair wax, hair gel, hair dye, bleaching agent and / or hair shaping agent, and in principle contain all ingredients customary for these preparation forms.

In a first preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are formulated as hair tonic and / or hair tonic and contain, based on their total weight, preferably 0 to 70% by weight of at least one alcohol.

More preferred are hair lotions and / or hair tonics containing 10 to 65 wt .-%, especially 20 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% of at least one alcohol.

Suitable alcohols which can be used in hair lotions and / or tonics according to the invention are the abovementioned alcohols.

Preferred for use in hair lotions and / or hair tonics are C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohols, such as ethanol, ethyldiglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1 , 2-butanediol and / or 1,3-butanediol, and more preferred are ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol and / or isopropanol, and particularly preferred is ethanol.

In a second preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are formulated as shampoo, conditioner, hair conditioner, hair colorant, bleaching agent and / or hair shaping agent and contain, based on their total weight, preferably 0.1 to 50% by weight of at least one surfactant which may be selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.

Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred for the compositions according to the invention to be formulated as a shampoo, rinse and / or hair conditioner.

Anionic surfactants and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are preferably used in hair shampoos.

• – eine Mischung aus milden anionischen und milden amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensiden,
• – eine Mischung aus milden anionischen und milden nichtionischen Tensiden,
• – eine Mischung aus milden anionischen, milden amphoteren/zwitterionischen und milden nichtionischen Tensiden oder
• – eine Mischung aus milden anionischen, milden amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensiden und milden kationischen Tensiden enthalten.

To provide particularly mild hair shampoos and to protect the scalp during the cleaning, it is preferred that hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as hair shampoo,

• A mixture of mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants,
• A mixture of mild anionic and mild nonionic surfactants,
• A mixture of mild anionic, mild amphoteric / zwitterionic and mild nonionic surfactants or
• - Contain a mixture of mild anionic, mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants and mild cationic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants are the inventive agents - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably from 1 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 2 to 17.5 wt .-% and especially from 3 to 15% by weight.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare oder verzweigte, gesättigte oder ungesättigte Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und/oder -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfat- und/oder Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃ ^– X⁺, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare oder verzweigte, gesättigte oder ungesättigte Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 und X ein Alkali- oder Ammoniumion ist,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel,
  
  in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂OH₂O)_nR¹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht.

Suitable anionic surfactants include, for example:

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,
• - Alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ ^- X ⁺ , in which R is a preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x = 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali or ammonium ion,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula
  
  in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ OH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ are each independently a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical.

Preferred anionic surfactants are ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze the aforementioned formula.

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 1 to 8 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.

Further particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to 8.

Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may preferably be added to the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 12 , 5 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 10 wt .-% are added.

Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may be selected from compounds of the following formulas (i) to (v) in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms stands,

Particularly suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v).

Particularly suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name.

Cationic surfactants are preferably used in hair conditioning agents according to the invention (such as, for example, hair rinses and / or hair treatments).

But they can also be used in amounts of up to 15 wt .-% (based on the total weight of the composition) in hair cleansers.

Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and / or amidoamines.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87. The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Quartamin ^®.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyl commercially represent.

The cationic surfactants may be used in the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and in particular from 0.2 to 10 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Suitable nonionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers are in the inventive compositions - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-% used.

• – C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – C₃-C₂₀-Triglyceride, insbesondere das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung bekannte Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride und/oder
• – Alkylpolyglucoside.

Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers include

• C ₈ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• - amine oxides,
• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• C ₃ -C ₂₀ triglycerides, in particular the caprylic / capric triglycerides known under the INCI name and / or
• - Alkyl polyglucosides.

In the event that a nonionic surfactant is used in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention, alkyl oligoglucosides, in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut oil having a DP of 1-3, as described for example under the INCI Term "coco-glucosides" are commercially available.

Further preferred nonionic surfactants are the C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol. Particularly preferred are the C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ -Fetsäuremono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol. Especially preferred is the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate known under the INCI name.

• – 0,5 bis 25 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids und/oder 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensids,
• – 0,5 bis 25 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids und/oder 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen Tensids,
• – 0,5 bis 25 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensids und 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen Tensids,
• – 0,5 bis 25 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensids und 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines kationischen Tensids.

Preferred surfactant combinations which can be used in hair shampoos according to the invention contain, based on the total weight of the shampoo:

• From 0.5 to 25% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant and / or from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant,
• From 0.5 to 25% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant and / or from 0.01 to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant,
• From 0.5 to 25% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant and from 0.01 to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant,
• From 0.5 to 25% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant and from 0.05 to 20% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.

• – 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus Ethercarbonsäuren, Acylsarcosiden mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und/oder -dialkylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, Alpha-Olefinsulfonaten mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und/oder Alkylsulfat- und/oder Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalzen der zuvor genannten Formel und 0,5 bis 12,5 Gew.-% mindestens eines zwitterionischen/amphoteren Tensids, ausgewählt aus Alkylamidoalkylbetainen und/oder Alkylampho(di)acetaten der zuvor genannten Formeln (i) bis (v),
• – 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus Ethercarbonsäuren, Acylsarcosiden mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und/oder -dialkylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, Alpha-Olefinsulfonaten mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und/oder Alkylsulfat- und/oder Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalzen der zuvor genannten Formel und 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diestern von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, Anlagerungsprodukten von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und/oder Alkylpolyglucosiden,
• – 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus Ethercarbonsäuren, Acylsarcosiden mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und/oder -dialkylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, Alpha-Olefinsulfonaten mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und/oder Alkylsulfat- und/oder Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalzen der zuvor genannten Formel, 0,5 bis 12,5 Gew.-% mindestens eines amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus Alkylamidoalkylbetainen und/oder Alkylampho(di)acetaten der zuvor genannten Formeln (i) bis (v) und 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diestern von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, Anlagerungsprodukten von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und/oder Alkylpolyglucosiden,
• – 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus Ethercarbonsäuren, Acylsarcosiden mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und/oder -dialkylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylestern mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, Alpha-Olefinsulfonaten mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und/oder Alkylsulfat- und/oder Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalzen der zuvor genannten Formel, 0,5 bis 12,5 Gew.-% mindestens eines amphoteren/zwitterionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus Alkylamidoalkylbetainen und/oder Alkylampho(di)acetaten der zuvor genannten Formeln (i) bis (v) und 0,1 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines kationischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus quartären Ammoniumverbindungen, Esterquats und/oder Amidoaminen.

Particularly preferred combinations of surfactants that can be used in hair shampoos according to the invention contain, based on the total weight of the shampoo:

• From 1 to 20% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts of the aforementioned formula and 0.5 to 12.5 wt. % of at least one zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactant selected from alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v),
• From 1 to 20% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefinsulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts of the aforementioned formula and 0.05 to 15 wt .-% at least a nonionic surfactant selected from C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 up to 30 C atoms, adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and / or alkyl polyglucosides,
• From 1 to 20% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefinsulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts of the aforementioned formula, 0.5 to 12.5 wt. % of at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant selected from alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the aforementioned formulas (i) to (v) and from 0.05 to 15% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from C ₈ C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols mi t 8 to 30 C atoms, adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and / or alkyl polyglucosides,
• From 1 to 20% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefinsulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts of the aforementioned formula, 0.5 to 12.5 wt. % of at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant selected from alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the aforementioned formulas (i) to (v) and from 0.1 to 15% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, Esterquats and / or amidoamines.

• – 3 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylethersulfaten mit einem Alkylrest mit 8 bis 18 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 16 C-Atomen und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 8, insbesondere 2 bis 4, und/oder geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylsulfonaten, die einen Alkylrest mit 8 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen enthalten und 1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung bekannten Tenside Cocamidopropylbetain und Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate,
• – 3 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylethersulfaten mit einem Alkylrest mit 8 bis 18 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 16 C-Atomen und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 8, insbesondere 2 bis 4, und/oder geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylsulfonaten, die einen Alkylrest mit 8 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen enthalten und 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Alkylpolyglycosids,
• – 3 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylethersulfaten mit einem Alkylrest mit 8 bis 18 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 16 C-Atomen und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 8, insbesondere 2 bis 4, und/oder geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylsulfonaten, die einen Alkylrest mit 8 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen enthalten, 1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung bekannten Tenside Cocamidopropylbetain und Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate und 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Alkylpolyglycosids,
• – 3 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylethersulfaten mit einem Alkylrest mit 8 bis 18 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 16 C-Atomen und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 8, insbesondere 2 bis 4, und/oder geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylsulfonaten, die einen Alkylrest mit 8 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen enthalten und 1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung bekannten Tenside Cocamidopropylbetain und Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate und 0,2 bis 10 Gew.-% quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen, Esterquats und/oder Amidoamine.

Especially preferred surfactant combinations that can be used in hair shampoos according to the invention contain, based on the total weight of the shampoo:

• From 3 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 4, and / or straight-chain or branched Alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 1 to 10 wt.% Of at least one of the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known by the INCI name,
• From 3 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 4, and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one alkylpolyglycoside,
• From 3 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 4, and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms, 1 to 10 wt.% of at least one of the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name and 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one alkylpolyglycoside,
• From 3 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 4, and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one known under the INCI name surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and 0.2 to 10% by weight of quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and / or amidoamines.

The hair-cleansing and / or hair-conditioning compositions according to the invention contain the cationic copolymer X, preferably in an amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 100% by weight 5% by weight.

Suitable cationic copolymers X are preferably obtainable by copolymerization of butyl acrylate, ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate and styrene and preferably have a weight average molecular weight of 10 to 250 kDa, more preferably 25 to 200 kDa, particularly preferably 50 to 150 kDa and especially of 80 to 120 kDa. Such polymers are commercially available under the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / styrene copolymer".

Particularly preferred are cationic copolymers X whose cationic groups are protected. Such protection can be achieved, for example, by nonionic side chains.

A suitable commercial product that can be used as the cationic copolymer X in the inventive hair cleaning and / or hair conditioners, "Polysaf ^® 5600" is. "Polysaf ^® 5600" is offered by Dow Reichhold Specialty Latex, and is an approximately 40% aqueous suspension of the under the INCI name "Butyl Acrylate / Methacrylate Chloride Ethyltrimonium / Styrene - copolymer" known polymer.

The hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention contain the active substance (s) b) positively influencing the metabolic activity on the hair root. B) - preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5%, based on their total weight Wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%.

Suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinones) and / or plastoquinone (s).

Ubiquinones are the most widely used and thus best studied biochinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are labeled as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or as number of C atoms -5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q-10 predominates. Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle.

in der n für die ganzen Zahlen 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10 steht.Preferred ubiquinones have the following formula:

in which n stands for the integers 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention is the - also known under the name coenzyme Q10 - ubiquinone of the aforementioned formula in which n is the number 10.

auf (in der n für die ganzen Zahlen 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10 steht). Sie können aus Chloroplasten isoliert werden und spielen als Redoxsubstrate in der Photosynthese beim cyclischen und nichtcyclischen Elektronentransport eine Rolle, wobei sie reversibel in die entsprechenden Hydrochinone (Plastochinol) übergehen. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden entsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiedlichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on (where n stands for the integers 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10). They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of the isoprene radicals and are designated accordingly, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Particularly preferred active compounds b) which can be used in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are selected from taurine, caffeine, pantolactone, carnitine, coenzyme Q10 and / or theophylline and from physiologically tolerated salts and / or derivatives of these compounds.

• – 3 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylethersulfaten mit einem Alkylrest mit 8 bis 18 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 16 C-Atomen und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 8, insbesondere 2 bis 4, und/oder geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylsulfonaten, die einen Alkylrest mit 8 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen enthalten,
• – 1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung bekannten Tenside Cocamidopropylbetain und Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate,
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines unter der INCI-Bezeichnung „Butyl Acrylate/Ethyltrimonium Chloride Methacrylate/Styrene – Copolymer” bekannten kationischen Polymers und
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines die Stoffwechselaktivität an der Haarwurzel positiv beeinflussenden Wirkstoffs, ausgewählt aus Biotin, einem Biochinon, Taurin, Pantolacton, Kreatin, Theophyllin, Coffein, Carnitin, Reisextrakt, Sojaextrakt, Maisextrakt, Weizenextrakt, Rapsextrakt, Algenextrakt Echinaceaextrakt und/oder physiologisch verträglichen Salzen und/oder Derivaten dieser Wirkstoffe.

In a third particularly preferred embodiment, an inventive hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning composition is formulated as a hair shampoo and contains - based on its total weight - preferred

• From 3 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 4, and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms,
• From 1 to 10% by weight of at least one of the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name,
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer known by the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / styrene copolymer" and
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one active substance influencing the metabolic activity at the hair root, selected from biotin, a biochinone, taurine, pantolactone, creatine, theophylline, caffeine, carnitine, travel extract, soy extract, corn extract, wheat extract, rapeseed extract, algae extract, Echinacea extract and / or physiologically acceptable salts and / or derivatives of these agents.

Within this third embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair shampoo contains - based on its total weight - 0.005 to 5 wt .-% taurine, caffeine, pantolactone, carnitine, coenzyme Q 10 and / or theophylline.

• – 3 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen Tensids, ausgewählt aus geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylethersulfaten mit einem Alkylrest mit 8 bis 18 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 16 C-Atomen und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 8, insbesondere 2 bis 4, und/oder geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkylsulfonaten, die einen Alkylrest mit 8 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen enthalten,
• – 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Alkylpolyglycosids,
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines unter der INCI-Bezeichnung „Butyl Acrylate/Ethyltrimonium Chloride Methacrylate/Styrene – Copolymer” bekannten kationischen Polymers und
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines die Stoffwechselaktivitat an der Haarwurzel positiv beeinflussenden Wirkstoffs, ausgewählt aus Biotin, einem Biochinon, Taurin, Pantolacton, Kreativ, Theophyllin, Coffein, Carnitin, Reisextrakt, Sojaextrakt, Maisextrakt, Weizenextrakt, Rapsextrakt, Algenextrakt Echinaceaextrakt und/oder physiologisch verträglichen Salzen und/oder Derivaten dieser Wirkstoffe.

In a fourth particularly preferred embodiment, an inventive hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning composition is formulated as a hair shampoo and contains - based on its total weight - preferred

• From 3 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 4, and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms,
• From 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one alkylpolyglycoside,
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer known by the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / styrene copolymer" and
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one active substance influencing the metabolic activity at the hair root, selected from biotin, a biochinone, taurine, pantolactone, creatine, theophylline, caffeine, carnitine, rice extract, soy extract, corn extract, wheat extract, rapeseed extract, algae extract, Echinacea extract and / or physiologically acceptable salts and / or derivatives of these agents.

Within this fourth embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair shampoo contains - based on its total weight - 0.005 to 5 wt .-% taurine, caffeine, pantolactone, carnitine, coenzyme Q10 and / or theophylline.

• – 0,2 bis 10 Gew.-% quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen, Esterquats und/oder Amidoamine,
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines unter der INCI-Bezeichnung „Butyl Acrylate/Ethyltrimonium Chloride Methacrylate/Styrene – Copolymer” bekannten kationischen Polymers und
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines die Stoffwechselaktivität an der Haarwurzel positiv beeinflussenden Wirkstoffs, ausgewählt aus Biotin, einem Biochinon, Taurin, Pantolacton, Kreatin, Theophyllin, Coffein, Carnitin, Reisextrakt, Sojaextrakt, Maisextrakt, Weizenextrakt, Rapsextrakt, Algenextrakt Echinaceaextrakt und/oder physiologisch verträglichen Salzen und/oder Derivaten dieser Wirkstoffe.

In a fifth particularly preferred embodiment, a hair conditioning composition according to the invention is formulated as a hair conditioner or rinse and contains-based on its total weight-preferred

• From 0.2 to 10% by weight of quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and / or amidoamines,
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer known by the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / styrene copolymer" and
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one active substance influencing the metabolic activity at the hair root, selected from biotin, a biochinone, taurine, pantolactone, creatine, theophylline, caffeine, carnitine, travel extract, soy extract, corn extract, wheat extract, rapeseed extract, algae extract, Echinacea extract and / or physiologically acceptable salts and / or derivatives of these agents.

Within this fifth embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair conditioner and / or the hair conditioner contains 0.005 to 5% by weight of taurine, caffeine, pantolactone, carnitine, coenzyme Q10 and / or theophylline, based on their total weight.

• – 10 bis 65 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt 20 bis 60 Gew.-% und insbesondere 25 bis 50 Gew.-% Ethanol, 1-Propanol, 2-Propanol und/oder Isopropanol,
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines unter der INCI-Bezeichnung „Butyl Acrylate/Ethyltrimonium Chloride Methacrylate/Styrene – Copolymer” bekannten kationischen Polymers und
• – 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines die Stoffwechselaktivität an der Haarwurzel positiv beeinflussenden Wirkstoffs, ausgewählt aus Biotin, einem Biochinon, Taurin, Pantolacton, Kreatin, Theophyllin, Coffein, Carnitin, Reisextrakt, Sojaextrakt, Maisextrakt, Weizenextrakt, Rapsextrakt, Algenextrakt Echinaceaextrakt und/oder physiologisch verträglichen Salzen und/oder Derivaten dieser Wirkstoffe.

In a sixth particularly preferred embodiment, a hair conditioning composition according to the invention is formulated as hair tonic and contains - based on its total weight - preferred

• From 10 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 60% by weight and in particular from 25 to 50% by weight of ethanol, of 1-propanol, of 2-propanol and / or of isopropanol,
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer known by the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / styrene copolymer" and
• From 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one active substance influencing the metabolic activity at the hair root, selected from biotin, a biochinone, taurine, pantolactone, creatine, theophylline, caffeine, carnitine, travel extract, soy extract, corn extract, wheat extract, rapeseed extract, algae extract, Echinacea extract and / or physiologically acceptable salts and / or derivatives of these agents.

It has been found that the cosmetic effect of the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention can be significantly increased if, based on their total weight, they are preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5% by weight .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one - different from X - cationic polymers.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind,
• – hydrophob modifizierte Cellulosederivate, beispielsweise die unter dem Handelsnamen SoftCat^® vertriebenen kationischen Polymere,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol, sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen
• – Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 und Polyquaternium 89 bekannten Polymere.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example:

• - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially
• - hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - Quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as those under the names
• Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.

Further suitable cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names. Chitosans are deacetylated chitins, which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights).

Particularly preferred cationic polymers which can be used in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are quaternized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and / or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivative), which are in particular selected from the polymers known under the INCI names Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67.

In addition to the aforementioned active substances, the hair-cleansing and / or hair-conditioning compositions according to the invention may also contain a number of other active ingredients which give them advantageous properties.

• – Öl-, Wachs- und/oder Fettkomponenten, die die in den jeweiligen Haarbehandlungsmitteln (bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht) bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,01–20 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,05–15 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,1–10 Gew.-% eingesetzt werden können,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe, die in den jeweiligen Haarbehandlungsmitteln (bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht) bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,025 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,075 bis 3 Gew.-% eingesetzt werden können.

The preferred optional active substances that can be used in the hair-cleansing and / or hair-conditioning compositions according to the invention include, for example:

• Oily, waxy and / or fatty components which in the respective hair treatment compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01-20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-15% by weight and in particular from 0.1-10% by weight,
• Antidandruff active ingredients which in the respective hair treatment compositions (based on their total weight) are preferably present in an amount of from 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.075 to 3% by weight. % can be used.

Suitable oil and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.

As natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam oil, distelol, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)- Polyoxyalkylen(B)- Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silicon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht siliconhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silicon enthält;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair. It is therefore desirable to use silicones in the cosmetic hair treatment compositions. Suitable silicones may be selected from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone, to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.

Useful dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether.

Particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.

Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucalcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their guerbet alcohols can be used , this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

As natural or synthetic waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen,
• – Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12, Cetiol^® HE oder Cutina^® MD.

Other fatty substances are, for example

• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / - caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B) , myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols,
• - glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® CC)
• - ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^®, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD.

Suitable anti-dandruff agents may be selected from piroctone oleamines, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.

Preferred are climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone oil amines.

• – Vitamine, Vitaminderivate und/oder Vitaminvorstufen,
• – Pflanzenextrakte und/oder
• – Feuchthaltemittel.

Other optional components that can be used in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions of the present invention include, for example

• - vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors,
• - Plant extracts and / or
• - Humectants.

Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration.

• • Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• • Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt.
• • Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol eingesetzt. Einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie kationische Panthenolderivate.
• • Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

Vitamin B: belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others

• • Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• • Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
• • Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
• • Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol).

Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

The hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention may preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B and E. Particularly preferred are nicotinic acid amide or panthenol.

Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 be used to 5 wt .-%.

Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be made from any part of a plant.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

Particularly suitable are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hominy, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Ginseng, Ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens.

Particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

The plant extracts may in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 be used to 5 wt .-%.

Suitable humectants or penetrants and / or swelling agents which can be added to the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents according to the invention are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives , Benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol , 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

The humectants may in the compositions of the invention - based on the total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% are used.

• – UV-Filter,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Gelatine oder Pflanzengumme, beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und. Dextrine, Tone und Schichtsilikate wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol, die Ca-, Mg- oder Zn-Seifen,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Dimethylisosorbid,
• – Cyclodextrine,
• – faserstrukturverbessemde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren wie Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure, Glycolsäure,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Bisabolol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Ceramide. Unter Ceramiden werden N-Acylsphingosin (Fettsäureamide des Sphingosins) oder synthetische Analogen solcher Lipide (sogenannte Pseudo-Ceramide) verstanden,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Konservierungsmittel, wie beispielsweise Natriumbenzoat oder Salicylsäure,
• – Viskositätsregler wie Salze (NaCl).

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which can be used in the hair-cleansing and / or hair-conditioning compositions according to the invention are, for example:

• - UV filters,
• Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. Methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and. Dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn soaps,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - dimethyl isosorbide,
• - cyclodextrins,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Substances for adjusting the pH, for example α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
• - active substances such as bisabolol,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - Ceramides. Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• Preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,
• - Viscosity regulator such as salts (NaCl).

The hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents according to the invention preferably have pH values in the range from 1 to 7, preferably from 2 to 6.5 and in particular from 3 to 6.

The hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention have excellent properties when applied to the hair.

In addition to the cleaning and / or care, the hair-cleansing and / or hair-conditioning compositions according to the invention stimulate the metabolic activity at the hair root, whereby the hair is strengthened in its structure. Furthermore, the keratin synthesis is positively influenced, whereby the hair growth can be accelerated.

In particular, it has been observed that hair after treatment with the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions according to the invention have a stronger and glossier effect and an increased volume.

A second object of the invention is the cosmetic use of a hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agent according to the invention for increasing the hair volume and / or the cell activity of the scalp and / or the hair root.

Examples:

The following working examples were prepared (the amounts are based on wt .-%, unless otherwise stated): 1) hair shampoos 1 2 3 4 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10 12 - - Sodium laureth-8 sulfates - - 10 - Sodium C _14-18 olefin sulfonates - - - 8th Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinates - - - 2 cocamidopropyl - - 3 2 Coco Glucoside 5 4 2 5 Lauryl polyglucosides - - - 3 Laureth-2 - 1 0.3 0.3 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 1 0.5 - - ^Polysaf®1 5600 2 5 2 4 D-panthenol 2 - - - biotin - - 0.2 - taurine 0.2 0.5 - - caffeine - - 1 - pantolactone 0.2 - 0.5 0.5 theophylline - - - 0.6 rice extract - - 0.1 - Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.6 0.8 0.8 Apricot kernel oil 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.1 PEG-12 Dimethicone - 1 - - Hydrolyzed keratin - 1 - - Laurdimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - - 0.5 - Benzophenone-4 - - 0.5 0.5 salicylic acid 0.2 - 0.3 0.3 Zinc pyrithione 0.2 - - - Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.2 - - 0.2 PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate - 0.5 0.2 0.2 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil - 0.5 - - Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 citric acid 1.2 0.6 1 1 Propylene glycol - 0.5 0.3 0.3 NaCl 1 1 1 1 Zinc pyrithione - 0.5 0.2 0.3 Perfume qs qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

In hair shampoos 1-4, the following commercial product was used: 1 INCI name: butyl acrylate / ethyl trimonium chloride methacrylates / styrene copolymer; 40% AS in water; Dow Reichhold Specialty Latex 2) Hair conditioner conditioner hair conditioner Paraffin Liquidum 1.5 - isopropyl 1 - Cetearyl Alcohol 4 7 ^Dehyquart®2 F75 1.5 1.2 Varisoft ^®3 W575 PG 1.5 - stearamidopropyldimethylamines 0.8 - ^Genamin®4 KDMP - 1.2 Dehyquart ® ⁵ A CA 3 - Ceteareth-9 0.8 - Ceteareth-25 - 0.8 ^Polysaf®1 5600 3 5 pantolactone 0.2 0.1 Coenzyme Q-10 - 0.01 creatine 0.05 - carnitintartrat - 0.1 cetyl esters - 0.5 Polyquaternium-67 - 0.1 Polyquaternium-37 0.5 0.6 Dow ^Corning®6 200 - 0.4 Zinc pyrithione 0.1 - Preservative, perfume qs qs water ad 100 ad 100

In the hair conditioners the following commercial products were used:
2 INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, AS 65-72%; Cognis,
3 INCI name: Quaternium-87, propylene glycol; Evonik,
4 INCI name: Behentrimonium Chloride; Clariant
5 INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride, AS 24-26%; Cognis,
6 INCI name: dimethylpolysiloxanes 60,000 cSt; Dow 3) hair tonics 1 2 pantolactone 0.1 - creatine - 0.2 carnitintartrat - 0.1 biotin - 0.2 Coenzyme Q10 0.01 - allantoin 0.1 0.05 Benzophenone-4 0.03 0.01 Synthalen® ^®7 K 0.25 0.2 ^Neutrol®8 TE 0.25 0.25 Ethanol 96% 40 30 1-propanol - 7.5 ^Polysaf®1 5600 3 4 Ceteareth-25 0.1 0.15 menthol 0.03 0.08 water ad 100 ad 100

The following commercial products were used in the Haartonics:
7 INCI name: carbomer; 3V Sigma
8 INCI name: tetrahydroxypropyl ethylene diamine; BASF

Claims (10)

Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one cationic copolymer X containing the monomers butyl acrylate, trimethyl ammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride and styrene, and b) at least one active substance influencing the metabolic activity at the hair root, selected from - biotin, - biochinones, - taurine, - pantolactone, - Creatine, - theophylline, - caffeine, - carnitine, - an extract of rice, soya, maize, wheat, oilseed rape, algae and / or echinacea, and or - The physiologically acceptable salts and / or derivatives of these drugs. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% of at least one alcohol. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - 0.1 to 50 wt .-% of at least one surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the weight average molecular weight of the copolymer X is 10 to 250 kDa, preferably 25 to 200 kDa, more preferably 50 to 150 kDa and in particular 80 to 120 kDa is. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the copolymer X - based on its total weight - in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5 parts by weight. % and in particular from 0.01 to 5 wt .-%. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it or the active ingredient (s) b) - based on its total weight - in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - additionally 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one - different from X - cationic polymers. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the non-X cationic polymer is selected from the group of the quaternized cellulose polymers, the cationic guar derivatives and / or the acrylic acid (derivative) polymers. Hair cleansing and / or hair conditioner according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - additionally 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oil, fat and / or wax component. Cosmetic use of a hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for increasing the hair volume and / or the cell activity of the scalp and / or the hair root.