DE102009054569A1 - Composition, useful e.g. for color change of keratin fibers, comprises a color-changing component and an active complex comprising a diester compound, an ingredient that is derived from Butyrospermum parkii, and L-serine, in a carrier - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises at least one color-changing component and an active complex comprising at least one diester compound (I), at least one ingredient that is derived from a plant of the type Butyrospermum parkii, and L-serine and/or its salts, in a cosmetic carrier. Composition comprises at least one color-changing component and an active complex comprising (a1) at least one diester compound of formula (R1-C(=O)-O-CH 2-(CH 2) n-O-C(=O)-R2) (I), (a2) at least one ingredient that is derived from a plant of the type Butyrospermum parkii, and (a3) L-serine and/or its salts, in a cosmetic carrier. R1, R2 : 7-23C-alkyl or -alkenyl; and n : 1-10. An independent claim is included for kit-of-parts containing at least two separately assembled containers, where the first container contains an oxidizing agent preparation in a carrier that contains hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, and the second container contains a coloring preparation containing the above composition in a carrier.

Description

The The invention relates to a coloring agent for keratin-containing Fibers for shiny and nourishing dyeings. This coloring agent contains in a cosmetic Carrier in addition to a coloring component at least one Contains active ingredient complex, which is a particular diester (a) of the formula (I), an ingredient derived from a plant of Type Butyrospermum Parkii is obtained, and includes L-serine. Especially the addition of this active substance complex proves to be advantageous oxidative colorants. In addition, concerns the invention the use of said means for improvement the moisture content and condition, in particular of Gloss and wet combability, of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, during staining.

The Changing the shape and color of the hair represents an important one Range of modern cosmetics. For fashionable color design of hairstyles or lamination of gray or even white Hair with fashionable or natural hues Consumers use color-changing agents. These Means should in addition to the desired dyeing power cause as little damage to the hair as possible and preferably even additional care properties have.

to Provision of color-changing cosmetic preparations, in particular for the skin or keratin fibers such as human hair, the expert knows the requirements of the Coloring various dyeing systems.

to Provision of color-changing cosmetic preparations, in particular for the skin or keratin fibers, such as human hair, the expert knows the requirements of the Coloring various dyeing systems. For permanent, intense Dyeings with corresponding fastness properties so-called oxidation colorants used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen with each other or under coupling with one or more coupler components the actual dyes. The oxidation colorants Although distinguished by excellent, long-lasting staining results out. For natural-looking dyeings but usually it has to be a mixture of a larger one Number of oxidation dye precursors are used; in many Cases also direct dyes are used for shading. For temporary dyeings are usually Dyeing or toning agents used as coloring Component contain so-called substantive dyes. in this connection These are dye molecules that are directly on the Raise substrate and no oxidative process to form the Need color.

When Brightening agents are, in particular, oxidative bleaching or bleaching agents for use. To the bleaching large color differences to achieve, in particular to discolor dark or black hair, be in addition to the usual hydrogen peroxide mostly as brightening agent bleach activators such as persalts as additional peroxide sources, and / or carbonates as additional alkalizing needed.

Especially oxidative hair dyes are despite their beneficial Dyeing properties for the user with disadvantages afflicted. Thus, the use of oxidants leads to Coloring or development of the actual Coloring to damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface. The hair becomes brittle, its elasticity decreases and the combability decreases. Second, oxidative stains require usually a basic pH for coloration, in particular between pH 9.0 and pH 11.5. However, the basic milieu is another Reason for damage to the hair and its structure , which also with increased application time in importance wins. The spreading of the outer cuticle layer leads in addition to an unpleasant surface sensation the hair and thus to a deteriorated combability in wet and dry conditions. This is for the consumer an increased need for additional aftertreatment agents deploy.

In order to improve the care state of the fibers, it has long been customary to subject the fibers to a special post-treatment after the color-changing treatment. In order to reduce the expense of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed. In addition to the customary components, for example for dyeing the hair, these preparations additionally contain active ingredients which were formerly reserved for hair aftertreatment agents. In order to save the additional post-treatment step, it has therefore not lacked attempts to incorporate suitable care substances in the hair dye. Usually, oxidative hair dyes are prepared immediately prior to use from a dyeing preparation and a so-called developer preparation. In general, the dyeing preparation has a strongly basic pH in order to stabilize the oxidation dye precursors contained therein, while the developer preparation has a weakly acidic pH, but not the dye formation contains agile oxidizing agent. Both preparations thus do not provide an advantageous environment to include a chemically sensitive care without decomposition. There is therefore still a need for suitable, stable care substances which can be incorporated into oxidative colorants and thus be able to minimize damage already occurring during the dyeing process.

task Therefore, it is the object of the present invention to overcome the above disadvantages lower oxidative hair dye. The colorants should protect the hair and thus a reduced damage of the hair. In particular, should by the means of moisture content be improved in the fiber, giving the hair increased elasticity and Gives suppleness and improved shine. The reduction of hair damage during staining should not be at the expense of a reduced dyeing power the funds are achieved.

It was now found in an unpredictable way that the addition of a drug complex containing a particular diester (a) of the formula (I) and an ingredient of a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii and L series in certain proportions in coloring matters for keratinische Fibers to advantages over conventional dyes regarding the shine and care of the fibers.

The use of shea butter as a constituent of a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii in hair dyes is already out DE 102006035252 A1 known. However, it was not obvious to a person skilled in the art that a complex of an ingredient of a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii in combination with L series and certain esters in color-changing agents would have an influence and gloss, care and combability of the hair.

• a) mindestens einen Diester (a) der Formel (I),
  
  R1 und R2 jeweils unabhängig voneinander für eine C₇-C₂₃-Alkyl-Gruppe oder C₇-C₂₃-Alkenyl-Gruppe und n für eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 stehen,
• b) mindestens einen Bestandteil, der aus einer Pflanze vom Typ Butyrospermum Parkii gewonnen wird, und
• c) L-Serin und/oder eines dessen physiologisch verträglichen Salze

umfasst.A first subject of the invention is therefore an agent for the color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing component and is characterized in that the agent additionally contains an active substance complex, which

• a) at least one diester (a) of the formula (I),
  
  R 1 and R 2 each independently of one another are a C ₇ -C ₂₃ -alkyl group or C ₇ -C ₂₃ -alkenyl group and n is a number from 1 to 10,
• (b) at least one constituent derived from a Butyrospermum Parkii plant, and
• c) L-serine and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts

includes.

Under keratin fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, To understand feathers and especially human hair. Although the agents according to the invention primarily for dyeing are suitable for keratin fibers, is in principle a use also in other areas nothing contrary.

The preparations used for the inventive use contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. For the purposes of the invention, this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture. For the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair. Preferred carriers are emulsions and gels, with emulsions being particularly preferred.

When first essential ingredient contains the dyeing preparation for use according to the invention at least one color-changing and / or coloring component.

The color-changing component is selected from at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or one direct dye and / or a lightening agent.

In a preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention contains the agent as a coloring component at least an oxidation dye precursor.

When Oxidation dye precursors contain the dyeing preparations at least one developer component and optionally at least a coupler component. The developer components can with each other, but preferably with coupler components the actual Forming dyes. Preferably, the inventive Colorant therefore at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type. The oxidation dye precursors are preferred in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based to the ready-to-use oxidation colorant used. The developer and coupler components are becoming conventional used in free form. For substances with amino groups can However, it may be preferred to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of Hydrochloride and hydrobromide or sulfates use.

there become developer components and coupler components in general used in about molar amounts to each other. If also the molar use has proved to be useful, so is a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors not detrimental, leaving developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 2 may be included.

Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives. Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropylamine p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p -phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-2-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p- phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenyle n-diamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3 - (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts. It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups. Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol , N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N '- bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane , N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1 , 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred binuclear developer components are in particular selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy) hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1.10 Bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol , 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4 -Amino-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino 2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts. Particularly preferred are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol. Further, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol. Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6 triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine. Preferred pyrazole derivatives are the compounds selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4 -Amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -t-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1 isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, and their physiologically tolerated salts, but especially 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly preferred pyrazolopyrimidines are pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines, with preferred pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines being selected from pyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2.5- Dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3 , 5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5- a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms.

Especially preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, as well as the physiologically acceptable Salts of these compounds. Very particularly preferred developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) -propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiological compatible salts. The developer components are preferred in an amount of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent used.

Kupplerkomponenten do not form a significant part of the oxidative staining alone Coloring, but always need the present of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that when using at least one coupler component in addition at least one developer component is used. invention Coupler components are preferably selected from m-aminophenol and / or its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives, o-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives, o-aminophenol and / or derivatives thereof, naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group, di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or derivatives thereof, pyridine derivatives, Pyrimidine derivatives, monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives, Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives, Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, and / or mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes.

The m-aminophenols which can be used according to the invention or derivatives thereof are preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2 -chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5 -Amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclo pentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and their physiologically acceptable salts. The 3-diaminobenzenes or derivatives thereof which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-bis) diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1- methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5 -methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3 Amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts. The o-diaminobenzenes or their derivatives which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and their physiologically tolerated salts. Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1 , 2,4-trihydroxybenzene. The pyridine derivatives which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2- methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino 2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine and their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1.3 Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene. The indole derivatives which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and their physiologically tolerated salts. The indoline derivatives which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and their physiologically tolerable salts. Preferred ferric pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

According to the invention preferred Coupler components are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5 methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-yl-phenyl) -amino] -ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxy-ethoxy) -5-methyl-phenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically acceptable salts. Especially preferred are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 1-naphthol and one of their physiologically acceptable salts. The coupler components are preferably in an amount of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready to use means used.

Developer-type and coupler-type oxidation dye precursors are particularly preferably used in certain combinations. However, other dye precursors can also be combined with the oxidation dye precursors and / or their physiologically tolerated salts mentioned as a combination: p-toluenediamine / resorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol; p-toluenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; p-Toluylendia min / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; p-toluenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; p-toluenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; p-toluenediamine / 1-naphthol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 3-aminophenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylene diamine / 3-aminophenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylene diamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / resorcinol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-methylresorcinol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 3-aminophenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-naphthol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / resorcinol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-methylresorcinol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-naphthol.

Farther may be the means for the invention Use at least one direct dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not need an oxidative process to form the paint. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, Nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Direct dyes may be anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes. The substantive dyes are each preferably in an amount from 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, respectively based on the entire application preparation used. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.

preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and Tetrabromphenol Blue known compounds. Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems, substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. Preferred nonionic substantive Dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino -4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, Picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

It is not necessary that the optionally contained substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing or for other reasons, eg. B. toxicological, out must be closed.

Farther can also be used as direct dyes in nature occurring dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, Sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, Madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.

to Increasing the whitening effect of hydrogen peroxide is as well possible, as brightening agent so-called bleaching power booster admit. These include persulfate salts, silica compounds and in particular cationized heterocycles.

Preferably is the bleaching power amplifier selected from ammonium persulphate, Alkali metal persulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates, Alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides. Especially preferred bleach boosters are ammonium peroxodisulfate, Potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, Potassium peroxodiphosphate, magnesium peroxide and barium peroxide. Particularly according to the invention preferred are agents which, as bleaching power boosters, at least an inorganic salt selected from peroxodisulfates, contain. Furthermore, it has been in the work on the present Invention proved to be particularly preferred when the inventive Agents contain at least two different Peroxodisulfate. preferred Peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.

Of the Use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts takes place in usually in the form of an optionally dedusted powder.

The Anhydrous compositions according to the invention instead of and / or in addition to the solid peroxo compounds contain a further bleaching power amplifier. As a bleaching power amplifier may be compounds that are under perhydrolysis conditions aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids with preferably 1 to 10 C-atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C-atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid, can be used. Suitable are substances which are O- and / or N-acyl groups of said C atomic number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Prefers are polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, especially tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, especially N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated Phenolsulfonates, especially n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or i-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, especially triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.

To further increase the performance of the oxidizing agent preparation, therefore, at least one optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compound may additionally be added to the composition according to the invention. It may be preferred according to the invention, the optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compounds in amounts of 0.05 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts of 0.15 wt .-% to 10 wt .-% and completely particularly preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, each based on the anhydrous composition according to the invention. With regard to the optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compounds, the present invention is in principle subject to no restrictions. Preference is given to silicic acids, their oligomers and polymers and their salts. The optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compounds can be present in various forms. According to the invention, the SiO ₂ compounds are preferably used in the form of silica gels (silica gel) or as water glass. Particularly preferred according to the invention are water glasses. Waterglasses which are particularly preferred according to the invention are sold under the names Ferrosil 119, soda waterglass 40/42, Portil A, Portil AW, Portil W and Britesil C20.

suitable Bleaching power enhancer of the type cationized heterocycles are in particular physiologically acceptable salts of Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium and N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium, particularly preferably 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate.

The Brightening agents are present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of ready to use agent included.

• a) mindestens einen Diester (a) der Formel (I),
  
  R1 und R2 jeweils unabhängig voneinander für eine C₇-C₂₃-Alkyl-Gruppe oder C₇-C₂₃-Alkenyl-Gruppe und n für eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 stehen,
• b) mindestens einen Bestandteil, der aus einer Pflanze vom Typ Butyrospermum Parkii gewonnen wird, und
• c) L-Serie und/oder eines dessen physiologisch verträglichen Salze

umfasst.As a further essential ingredient, the inventive agent of the first subject of the invention as a care substance additionally contains an active substance complex, which

• a) at least one diester (a) of the formula (I),
  
  R 1 and R 2 each independently represent a C ₇ -C ₂₃ -alkyl group or C ₇ -C ₂₃ -alken nyl group and n is a number from 1 to 10,
• (b) at least one constituent derived from a Butyrospermum Parkii plant, and
• c) L series and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts

includes.

When Diesters of the formula (I) are suitable both symmetrical, in which R1 and R2 represent the same alkyl or alkenyl group, as well as asymmetric diesters in which R1 and R2 are from each other are different. However, preferred are symmetrical diesters of the formula (I). Preferably, n is the number 1, 2 or 3, more preferably for the number 1.

An embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the agent contains as diester of the formula (I) at least one compound in which n is the number 1 and R1 and R2 each represent a C ₁₇ alkyl group, a C ₁₁ alkyl Group or a C ₁₅ alkyl group. Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are a C ₁₇ -alkyl group. This compound is ethylene glycol distearate, has the INCI name (Ethylene) Glycol Distearate and is sold, for example, under the tradename Cutina AGS.

Prefers are in the composition according to the invention diester of Formula (I) in a proportion of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 8 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, respectively based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

When components essential to the invention contain the agents in the active ingredient complex furthermore at least one constituent of a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii. Under the term "component of a plant of Type Butyrospermum Parkii "are raw materials according to the invention to understand directly from a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii be won. Furthermore, according to the invention also Synthetic raw material mixtures may be included, which are collected specifically have been to the natural blends of raw materials, from plants Butyrospermum Parkii be recovered. A According to the invention preferred plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii bears the scientific name Vitellaria paradoxa and becomes colloquially also Karitébaum or Sheanussbaum called. Its seeds, which are called Sheanuss, point a fat content of about 50%. The fat fraction is usually made from the seeds obtained by mechanical or chemical methods. As part of the mechanical process, the seeds are thoroughly mechanical crushed, the resulting mass boiled in water, and then the lighter fat is skimmed off. The crude fat thus obtained is grayish yellow and has a peculiar smell. In a second Step, the crude fat thus obtained is often refined, making a buttery, tough and odorless fat is obtained. A common chemical process is the Extraction of crushed seeds with hexane. With the help of this method can higher yields of the fat fraction can be obtained. Indeed Thus, the unsaponifiable ingredients are significantly worse extracted, and the resulting fat has a small proportion on unsaponifiable ingredients. As part of a first preferred Embodiment of the present invention include the Means at least one triglyceride fraction derived from a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii is obtained. The triglyceride fraction This plant is characterized by its high oleic acid and stearic acid content. According to the invention preferred are triglyceride fractions containing 45-55% by weight of oleic acid, 30-45% by weight of stearic acid, 2-8% by weight Palmitic acid and 2-8 wt .-% linoleic acid particularly preferred are triglyceride fractions, 49-50 % By weight of oleic acid, 36-42% by weight of stearic acid, 5-6% by weight of palmitic acid and 4-5% by weight Containing linoleic acid.

A Embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent in the active ingredient complex as Component of a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii Triglyceride fraction from 45 to 55% by weight of oleic acid, 30 to 45 wt .-% stearic acid, 2 to 8 wt .-% palmitic acid and 2 to 8 wt .-% linoleic acid, each based on the Total fatty acid content of triglyceride.

in the Frame of another embodiment of the present invention Invention contain the agents, at least one unsaponifiable fraction, which is obtained from Butyrospermum Parkii. As unsaponifiable ingredients In particular, the sheanuts contain triterpene alcohols, Phytosterols, latex, vitamins (vitamin E, provitamin A) and allantoin. Unlike many other fatty plants, such as Sesame or olives, are the plants of the type Butyrospermum Parkii a relatively high proportion of unsaponifiable components, the significantly influence the properties of the extracted fat fraction.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain both a triglyceride fraction and a unsaponifiable fraction, both of which are obtained from a plant of the Butyrospermum Parkii type. In the context of this embodiment, it has proved to be advantageous if the proportion of unsaponifiable fraction, based on the total component, the is obtained from the plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii, at least 5 wt .-%, preferably at least 9 wt .-%, is. The constituent (s) obtained from plants of the Butyrospermum type are, according to the invention, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agents , contained in the color changing agents.

Farther contains the agent according to the invention in Active substance complex additionally L-serine and / or a their physiologically acceptable salts.

L-serine can the agent according to the invention preferably in be added free form. In a number of cases However, it is also advantageous to use L-serine in salt form. Preferred salts are then the compounds with hydrohalic acids or sulfuric acid, especially the hydrochlorides, the Hydrobromides and the sulfates. According to the invention preferred In this case L-serine is used in free form, but also as hydrochloride.

L-serine and / or its physiologically acceptable salts are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

Especially preferred are agents in which the components of the active substance complex are matched to each other in their quantities.

• – den oder die Diester (a) der Formel (I) zu 0,1 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zu 0,5 bis 2,0 Gew.-%,
• – einen Bestandteil, der aus einer Pflanze vom Typ Butyrospermum Parkii gewonnen wird, zu 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, und
• – L-Serin von 0,05 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zu 0,1 bis 2,0 Gew.-%,

jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des anwendungsbereiten Mittels, enthält.An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains an active substance complex, which contains the agent an active substance complex, which

• The diester (s) of the formula (I) is from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight,
• A component derived from a plant of the Butyrospermum Parkii type, from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, and
• L-serine from 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight,

each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent contains.

• (a) 0,1 bis 5,0 Gew.-% an Ethylenglycoldistearat,
• (b) 0,05 bis 3,0 Gew.-% des Bestandteil, der aus einer Pflanze vom Typ Butyrospermum Parkii gewonnen wird, und
• (c) 0,1 bis 2,0 Gew.-% an L-Serie enthält,

wobei sich die Gewichtsanteile jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des anwendungsbereiten Mittels beziehen.A preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the ready-to-use color change agent as the active ingredient complex is a combination of

• (a) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of ethylene glycol distearate,
• (b) 0.05 to 3.0% by weight of the ingredient derived from a Butyrospermum Parkii plant, and
• (c) contains 0.1 to 2.0% by weight of L series,

wherein the weight proportions are based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

After all it has been found that in particular the addition of one additional care substance selected from cationized Phosphate esters, in agents for coloring keratinic fibers generates particularly advantageous care effect.

A another preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent additionally a conditioner selected from cationized phosphate esters, contains.

worin
y für eine ganze Zahl von 0 bis 2 steht und
x für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass die Summe aus x und y gleich 3 ist;
M steht für Wasserstoff, ein Äquivalent eines Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetallkations, ein Ammoniumkation oder einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppe(n) substituiert ist, und
B steht für ein Äquivalent eines physiologisch verträglichen Anions, z. B. Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid, Sulfat, Perchlorat, Tetrafluorborat, Tetraphenylborat und Tetrachlorozinkat.A cationized phosphate ester in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning a surfactant of the formula (II)

wherein
y is an integer from 0 to 2 and
x is an integer from 1 to 3, with the proviso that the sum of x and y is 3;
M is hydrogen, one equivalent of an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, and
B represents one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable anion, e.g. For example, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and Tetrachlorozinkat.

Prefers M is a sodium cation and B is chloride.

worin z für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 4, insbesondere für 3, steht,
R1, R2 unabhängig voneinander für einen C₁-C₄-Alkylrest stehen, der gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppe(n) oder einer Acylgruppe substituiert ist, und
A für eine der Einheiten -OCH₂CH₂CH₂-, -OCH₂CH₂- oder -OCH₂CH(OH)CH₂- steht, wobei die Einheit -OCH₂CH(OH)CH₂- erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist.
R3 steht für (a) einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten C₈-C₁₈-Acylrest oder (b) einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten, einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigten C₈-C₁₈-Acylrest. Besonders bevorzugte gesättigte Reste R3 leiten sich vom Acylrest der Stearinsäure sowie von den Acylresten der Mischung der Kokos-Fettsäuren ab, besonders bevorzugt von Linolsäure.R in the surfactants of the formula (II) according to the invention is a radical of the formula (III)

wherein z is an integer from 1 to 4, in particular 3,
R _1, R 2 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy group (s) or an acyl group, and
A represents one of the units -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - or -OCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, wherein the moiety -OCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ - is particularly preferred according to the invention.
R3 represents (a) a branched or unbranched, saturated C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radical or (b) a branched or unbranched, mono- or polyunsaturated C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radical. Particularly preferred saturated radicals R3 are derived from the acyl radical of stearic acid and from the acyl radicals of the mixture of coconut fatty acids, particularly preferably linoleic acid.

It It has been found that compounds of the formula (II) in which R3 is the acyl residue of linoleic acid, through a higher Label compatibility with the emulsifier system. This means that these substances are easier to incorporate into the formulations to let. Furthermore, formulations with compounds of the formula (II) where R3 is the rest of linoleic acid stands, a significantly higher care effect in comparison to compounds with saturated fatty acid residues on. Ethyl and methyl groups are preferred alkyl groups. All particularly preferred are methyl groups.

Compounds of the formula (II) are already known. So be in the EP-A1-13713 the surfactant properties of these compounds are generally described. Furthermore, from the DE-A1-44 08 506 the use of a compound of formula (II) in hair dyes already known. However, these references are not indicative of the synergistic increase in the care effect of the active compound combinations according to the invention.

All Particularly preferred cationized phosphate esters of the formula (II) are the INCI names Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate known substances. These will for example, from the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA, phospholipid PTC and phospholipid SV. According to the invention the compounds of the formula (II) in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, especially in amounts of 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy, used in the claimed means.

A oxidative staining of the fibers can in principle in the presence of oxidation dye precursors done with atmospheric oxygen. However, preference is given to a chemical Oxidizing agent used, especially if in addition to the staining a whitening effect on human hair is desired. This Lightening effect can be independent of the staining method be desired. Preferred oxidizing agents are persulfates, Peroxodisulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites and especially hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate.

A preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its addition products of organic or inorganic compounds. Preferred addition products are the addition products of hydrogen peroxide to urea, melamine and sodium borate. However, hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as the oxidizing agent. The amount of oxidizing agent in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ), in each case based on the ready-to-use means.

According to the invention the oxidation dye together with a catalyst be applied to the hair, the oxidation of the dye precursors, z. B. by atmospheric oxygen activated. Such catalysts are z. As enzymes, iodides, quinones or metal ions.

Around a premature, undesirable reaction of the oxidation dye precursors Oxidizing dye precursors are prevented by the oxidizing agent and oxidizing agent itself expediently seperated from each other and only immediately before Application brought into contact. When using additional oxidants the actual dyeing preparation is expediently immediately before use by mixing a novel Preparation containing at least one color-changing Component and at least one amino acid, as well as a Preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the colorants contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Common and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, especially ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP ), Aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepenta- (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), alkali pyrophosphates (tetrasodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate), alkali metal phosphates (Sodium phosphate), and Phosphoric acid. According to the invention, the agents preferably contain complexing agents of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The Agents which can be used according to the invention are preferred formulated as flowable preparations. To include in particular emulsions, suspensions and gels, particularly preferred emulsions. Preferably, the flowable contain Preparations additionally as surface-active Substance is an emulsifier or a surfactant, wherein surface-active substances depending on the field of application referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers and anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumgiycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. In another embodiment of the present invention, the agent further contains at least one amphoteric surfactant. Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one COOH or SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are sold under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate with the trade names Miranol C2M SF conc. (Rhodia), Amphoterge K-2 (Lonza) and Monateric CEM-38 (Unichema) and designation Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate with the trade names Dehyton (Cognis), Miranol C2M (Rhodia) and Ampholak XCO 30 (Akzo Nobel). Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous if the dyeing or whitening agents according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs. As further preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. The anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are used in total amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 30 wt .-% and most preferably from 1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total amount of ready for use By means of, used.

Also preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the alkylamidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates. Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention suitable compound from this group of substances represents Tegoamid ^® S 18 (stearamidopropyl). Esterquats are substances which contain both at least one Esterfunktion and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart and Armocare. The cationi surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example associative polymers with fatty alkyl chain, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers (vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes); zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methylmethacrylate / tert-butylaminoethylmethacrylate / 2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers); anionic polymers (polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers) ; Thickening agents (agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, eg methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as Amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol); hair conditioning compounds (phospholipids such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin, cephalins and silicone oils); additional protein hydrolysates of plant or animal origin (elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates); Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients (mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid); Defoamers such as silicones (dimethicone); Dyes for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents (Piroctone Oelamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole); Sunscreens (derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines); Active substances (pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol); Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ , C, E, F and H; Plant extracts (from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, litchi, wheat, kiwi , Melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, moringa, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger); vegetable oils (macadamia nut oil, kukui nut oil, palm oil, amaranth seed oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, evening primrose oil, tea tree oil); Cholesterol; Bodying agents (sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers); Fats and waxes (fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins); Swelling and penetration substances (glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates); Opacifiers (latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers); Pearlescing agent (ethylene glycol monostearate and PEG-3-distearate); Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air; Antioxidants.

The Selection of these other substances will be apparent to those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the preparations. The Preparations contain the other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of ready-to-use agent.

The Dyeing preparations of the invention Use preferably have a pH in the range of 4 to 12 having. In the case of oxidation colorants, the Application of the colorants in a weakly alkaline Milieu instead, preferably at a pH in the range of 8.0 to 10.5. For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are These are pH levels that are at a temperature of 22 ° C were measured.

For the adjustment of the pH, common acidifying and alkalizing agents are known to the person skilled in the art. The alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids. Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol and triethanolamine. Inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. preferably sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide. The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, more preferably L-arginine, D- Arginine and D / L-arginine. Finally, another preferred alkalizing agent is ammonia.

The agents according to the invention can also be used directly before use of two or more separately packaged preparations getting produced. This offers itself in particular for the separation incompatible Ingredients to prevent premature reaction. A Separation in multicomponent systems is particularly useful there where to expect incompatibilities of the ingredients or to be feared. The ready-to-use agent is added such systems by the consumer directly before application Mixing the components produced. An oxidative dye, at the oxidation dye precursors initially separated from the oxidizing agent preparation, containing preferably hydrogen peroxide, are present, it is preferred.

• a) mindestens einen Diester (a) der Formel (I),
  
  R1 und R2 jeweils unabhängig voneinander für eine C₇-C₂₃-Alkyl-Gruppe oder C₇-C₂₃-Alkenyl-Gruppe und n für eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 stehen,
• b) mindestens einen Bestandteil, der aus einer Pflanze vom Typ Butyrospermum Parkii gewonnen wird, und
• c) L-Serin und/oder eines seiner physiologisch verträglichen Salze umfasst.

A second subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), which contains at least two separate prefabricated containers, wherein at least one container (I) contains an oxidizing agent preparation (B) which contains at least hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier , and at least one container (II) contains a dyeing preparation (A) which contains at least one color-modifying component in an aqueous-cosmetic carrier, characterized in that the dyeing preparation (A) additionally contains an active-substance complex which

• a) at least one diester (a) of the formula (I),
  
  R 1 and R 2 each independently of one another are a C ₇ -C ₂₃ -alkyl group or C ₇ -C ₂₃ -alkenyl group and n is a number from 1 to 10,
• (b) at least one constituent derived from a Butyrospermum Parkii plant, and
• c) L-serine and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.

In an embodiment of the second subject of the invention contains the dyeing preparation as a color-changing Component at least one oxidation dye precursor.

In a particularly preferred embodiment is the packaging unit of the second subject invention, characterized in that at least one additional component selected from the group formed by personal protective clothing, such as disposable gloves, apron, application aid, such as Comb, brush, brush or applicette, and instructions for use contains. The instruction manual contains information in particular and instructions for the consumer (m / f) to use the means from the containers of the packaging unit in a method according to the first subject of the invention. An applicette is understood to mean a broad brush on which End of stem is a tip, which is the division of fiber bundles or highlights from the total amount of fibers allowed and simplified.

In terms of further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit (Kit-of-Parts) mutatis mutandis applies to the invention Means said.

One Another object of the present invention is for coloring human hair, wherein a means of the first subject of the invention applied to the hair for a period of 3 is left in the hair for 45 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes, and then the hair with water and / or a commercial Shampoo is rinsed.

The Application and the Einwirktemperatur the dyeing preparation is room temperature up to 45 ° C. Possibly can the effect of the dyeing preparation by external heat, such as by means of a heat hood, be strengthened. The preferred exposure time of the dyeing preparation to the keratinic fiber is 3 to 45 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 min. After completion of the exposure time, the remaining colorant from the keratinic fibers by means of a cleaning preparation or water washed out. After washing out, the keratinic Optionally, use a towel or a hot air blower for fibers dried. The application of the dyeing preparation is usually carried out with the hand by the user. Preference is given to personal Wear protective clothing, especially suitable protective gloves, for example, plastic or latex for single use (Disposable gloves) and optionally an apron. It But it is also possible to use the dyeing preparation an application aid applied to the keratinic fibers.

In one embodiment of this method, the ready-for-use coloring agent is prepared by mixing the dyeing preparation (A) with the developer preparation (B) of the multi-component packaging unit of the second subject matter applied to the keratinic fibers leave a certain exposure time in the hair and then rinsed the hair with water and / or a commercial shampoo.

One Another object of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use of a colorant of the first subject of the invention to improve the care of the fibers during the oxidative color change human hair.

One Another object of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use of a colorant of the first subject of the invention to improve the wet combability of the dyed Fibers in the oxidative color change of human Hair.

One Another object of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use of a colorant of the first subject of the invention to improve the suppleness and shine of the oxidative Color change of human hair.

In terms of further preferred embodiments of the invention Methods and uses mutatis mutandis applies to the invention Means said.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate preferred embodiments illustrate the invention, but without limiting it.

Examples

Preparation of the coloring cream

• * Farbstoffmischung, enthaltend 59,2 Gew.-% p-Toluylendiaminsulfat, 6,6 Gew.-% 3-Aminophenol, 22,7 Gew.-% Resorcin, 0,8 Gew.-% 2-Amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisolsulfat und 10,7 Gew.-% Siliciumdioxid, pyrogen, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Mischung. Rohstoffe: Lanette E, Pulver (INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate; Cognis); Texapon NSF, 27% (INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Laureth Sulfate; Cognis); Cutina GMS SE (INCI-Bezeichnung: Glyceryl Stearate; Cognis); Cutina AGS (INCI-Bezeichnung: Glycol Distearate; Cognis); Eutanol G (INCI-Bezeichnung: Octyldodecanol; Cognis); Phospholipid EFA (INCI-Bezeichnung: Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate; Uniqema); Cetiol SB 45 (INCI-Bezeichnung: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter; Cognis).

The following coloring creams with the same dye mixture were prepared: raw materials E1 V1 Color powder mixture * 2.3 2.3 Ammonium carbomer, 1% 12.0 12.0 Lanette E, powder 0.6 0.6 Texapon NSF, 27% 3.5 3.5 Potassium oleate, 12.5% 2.4 2.4 Cutina GMS SE 1.6 1.6 Cutina AGS 1.6 1.6 Eutanol G 1.6 1.6 Cetearyl Alcohol 9.6 9.6 Ceteareth-20 2.4 2.4 L-serine 0.5 0.5 Phospholipid EFA 0.1 0.1 Na ₄ -EDTA, powder, 87% 0.2 0.2 Cetiol SB 45 1.0 --- ascorbic acid 0.1 0.2 Sodium sulfite, anhydrous, 96% 0.2 0.2 Ammonia, 25% 6.0 6.0 Perfume qs qs water ad 100 ad 100

• * Dye mixture containing 59.2 wt .-% p-toluenediamine sulfate, 6.6 wt .-% of 3-aminophenol, 22.7 wt .-% resorcinol, 0.8 wt .-% 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisolsulfat and 10.7 wt .-% silica, pyrogenic, in each case based on the total weight of the mixture. Raw materials: Lanette E, powder (INCI name: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cognis); Texapon NSF, 27% (INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate; Cognis); Cutina GMS SE (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate; Cognis); Cutina AGS (INCI name: Glycol Distearate; Cognis); Eutanol G (INCI name: Octyldodecanol; Cognis); Phospholipid EFA (INCI name: Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphates; Uniqema); Cetiol SB 45 (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cognis).

The Fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently the remaining recipe ingredients were stirred incorporated in turn. Then, with water to 100 wt .-% filled in and the formulation stirred cold. at the recipe V1 is a non-inventive Comparison formulation. The recipe E1 is an inventive Example.

• Genamin STAC Trimethylstearylammonium chlorid (ca. 80% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Steartrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

Mixing with the developer dispersion (EW) and application Each coloring cream was mixed in a ratio by weight of 1: 1 with a developer dispersion composed as follows. raw material Wt .-% Na benzoate 0.04 dipicolinic 0.10 disodiumpyrophosphate 0.19 1,2-propanediol 0.50 HEDP, 60% 0.25 Paraffin Liquidum 0.30 Genamine STAC 0.20 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 Eumulgin B 2 0.70 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 12.2 Potassium hydroxide, 50% 0.19 water ad 100

• Genamin STAC Trimethylstearylammonium chloride (about 80% active ingredient, INCI name: Steartrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

strands of hair (Kerling 6/0) were washed with 3% sodium laureth sulfate. For the staining was on the strands of about 0.7 g applied weight 4 times the amount of the finished application mixtures. After streaks stained for 30 min at 32 ° C were rinsed with water for 5 min and dried in the air.

With Both dyeing formulations achieved a rich brown tone, wherein the with the dyeing preparations according to the invention (E1 + EW) or (V1 + EW) treated strands significantly superior gloss compared with the respective comparative formulations.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 102006035252 A1 [0010]
• EP 13713 A1 [0056]
• DE 4408506 A1 [0056]

Claims (10)

Agent for the color change of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-modifying component, characterized in that the agent additionally contains an active substance complex which a) at least one diester (a) of the formula (I),

R 1 and R 2 each independently represent a C ₇ -C ₂₃ alkyl group or C ₇ -C ₂₃ alkenyl group and n represents a number from 1 to 10; b) at least one constituent selected from a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii is obtained, and c) L-serine and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the active substance complex contains as diester of the formula (I) at least one compound in which n represents the number 1 and R 1 and R 2 each represent a C ₁₇ alkyl group, a C ₁₁ alkyl group. Group or a C ₁₅ alkyl group. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it as a component of a plant Butyrospermum Parkii a triglyceride fraction from 45 bis 55% by weight of oleic acid, 30 to 45% by weight of stearic acid, From 2 to 8% by weight of palmitic acid and from 2 to 8% by weight of linoleic acid, in each case based on the total fatty acid weight of the triglyceride, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized the agent contains an active substance complex which - the or the diesters (a) of the formula (I) to 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, - a component that is made a plant of the Butyrospermum Parkii type, to 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, and - L-serine from 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the agent is color changing Component at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least a substantive dye and / or at least one brightener contains. Means according to claim 5, characterized in that at least one oxidation dye precursor as the color-modifying component contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the agent additionally at least a conditioner selected from cationized phosphate esters, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the agent additionally comprises an oxidizing agent, selected from hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products of organic and inorganic compounds. Use of an agent according to a of claims 1 to 8 for improving wet combability, the suppleness and shine of the oxidative color change human hair. A multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising at least two separately prepared containers comprising at least one container (I) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (B) which contains at least hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, and at least one container (II), comprising a dyeing preparation (A) which contains at least one color-modifying component in an aqueous-cosmetic vehicle, characterized in that the dyeing preparation (A) contains an active substance complex which comprises a) at least one diester (a) of the formula (I),

R 1 and R 2 each independently represent a C ₇ -C ₂₃ alkyl group or C ₇ -C ₂₃ alkenyl group and n represents a number from 1 to 10; b) at least one constituent selected from a plant of the type Butyrospermum Parkii, and c) L-serine and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.