DE102009002286A1 - Agent, useful for coloring and/or modifying keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprises a color and/or shape modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and further a functionalized tetrapeptide - Google Patents

Abstract

Agent, comprises at least one color and/or shape modifying component in a cosmetic carrier, and further at least one functionalized tetrapeptide. An independent claim is included for a multi component packaging unit (kit of parts) comprising at least two separated confectionary container, where one container contains the color and shape modifying component, and another container contains an oxidizing agent containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Description

object The invention is a means for color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers, characterized in that it is in one cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing Component as well as at least one special tetrapeptide contains. The agents according to the invention are particularly suitable to reduce hair damage and improve the Skin compatibility. Furthermore, the invention relates to a Method of using such agents on keratin-containing fibers. Moreover, the invention relates to the use of the By means of coloring and / or permanent change of shape with reduced irritation potential.

The Changing the shape and color of the hair represents an important one The field of modern cosmetics dar. This can change the appearance the hair both current fashion trends and the individual wishes of the individual person to be adjusted. These funds should in addition to the desired dye and Mold performance minimal damage as possible cause the hair and especially good skin compatibility exhibit.

to Provision of color-changing cosmetic preparations, in particular for the skin or keratin fibers such as human hair, the expert knows the requirements of the Coloring various dyeing systems.

For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such Colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen among one another form the actual dyes. Draw the oxidation colorants though by excellent, long lasting staining results out. For temporary dyeings are usually Dyeing or toning agents used as coloring Component so-called direct pullers included. This is it around dye molecules that are directly on the substrate raise and no oxidative process to form the color need. Finally, has another dyeing process found great attention in the precursors of the natural Hair Dye Melanin on the substrate, eg. Hair, are applied, These then form naturally-analogous dyes in the course of oxidative processes in the hair form.

Should Substrates are lightened or even bleached, which become the substrate coloring dyes usually oxidative using appropriate Oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, decolorized.

The permanent deformation of keratin fibers usually becomes done so that the fiber is mechanically deformed and determines the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or After this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous Preparation of a keratin-reducing substance, this one Part of the disulfide bonds of Kerstins to thiol groups, so that it splits to a loosening of peptide cross-linking and it due the tension of the fiber through the mechanical deformation to a Reorientation of the keratin lies and rinses after exposure to water or an aqueous solution. In a second step, one then treats the fiber with the aqueous one Preparation of an oxidizing agent, under the influence of which again Disulfide bonds are linked, and so the Keratinefüge is refastened in the given deformation. After an exposure time This is also rinsed out and the fiber from the mechanical Deformation aids (winder, Papilloten) freed. A well-known such method makes the perming treatment more human Hair dar. This can both for the creation of curls and waves in straight hair as well as for smoothing crimped Hair are applied.

dye and permanent wave agents therefore usually contain hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent or fixative. This leads beside the desired cosmetic effect to oxidative damage on the hair structure and an increased irritation potential the scalp. Also, usually basic in such agents set pH value leads to an increase of the irritation potential. Especially users with sensitive skin may be on such Means with the formation of inflammation and pain react. Therefore, such products are especially in persons with a tendency to the formation of allergies only conditionally applicable. To make matters worse, that some of the commonly used cosmetic ingredients a not insignificant allergy potential wear. This applies both to oxidation dye precursors, as well as certain perfumes, certain UV filter substances or certain preservatives.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide cosmetic compositions for color and / or shape modification of keratinous fibers having improved skin compatibility. It is a particular object of the present application to reduce the irritation potential for the skin and thus to achieve a minimization of the allergy potential.

In unpredictable, it has now been found that color and / or shape-modifying agents which, in addition to a color and / or shape-changing component at least one functionalized Contain tetrapeptide, avoid the disadvantages mentioned above. conditioned by the protective effect when using the inventive By means of the skin compatibility can be improved.

It has been shown to contain certain functionalized tetrapeptides in the skin, in particular the scalp, the release and release of the pro-inflammatory neurotransmitter CGRP (calcitonin gene release peptides) from sensory nerve endings to reduce. This will increase the tolerance threshold of the skin, to irritating Substances react, lowered. Thus both inflammation potential as well as reduced pain sensation of the scalp. Furthermore It can soothe damaged, sensitive skin and cause allergies Tolerate substances better. Overall, the use leads certain functionalized tetrapeptides in color and / or Shape change from human hair to an improvement the skin compatibility and a reduction of irritation the scalp.

One The first object of the invention is therefore an agent for color and / or Shape change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle at least one color and / or shape-changing component, characterized in that the agent additionally at least contains a functionalized tetrapeptide.

Under keratin fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, To understand feathers and especially human hair. Although the agents according to the invention primarily for dyeing are suitable for keratin fibers, is in principle a use also in other areas nothing contrary.

The agents of the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. This cosmetic carrier is within the meaning of the invention is aqueous, alcoholic or wässrigalkoholisch. For the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, which are suitable for use on the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

When essential ingredient contains the inventive at least one functionalized tetrapeptide. Tetrapeptides in the sense The invention consists of four α-amino acids (alpha-amino acids), which via amide bonds linked together. Thus, remain in the peptide backbone a free amino group, the so-called N-terminus and a free Carboxyl group, the so-called C-terminus. According to usual Representation convention of peptides are the N-terminus on the left and the C-terminus on the right. The invention Functionalizations preferably consist of functionalizations at the N-terminus and at the C-terminus.

preferred Functionalizations at the N-terminus are thereby amidinations with suitable carboxylic or sulfonic acid derivatives, alkylations with alkylating agents and in the form of urea or urethanes. Especially preferred are amidations with carboxylic acid derivatives, such as acetyl chloride or acetyl anhydride. Especially Preferably, the N-terminus is therefore acylated. Preferred functionalizations at the C-terminus are the esterification with alcohols and amindinations with ammonia, primary or secondary amines. Particularly preferred is the amination, in which the C-terminus is functionalized with ammonia to the carboxamide.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore given by the fact that the agent according to the invention contain at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, which is characterized in that it has an acetylation as functionalization at the N-terminus and / or amidination with ammonia at the C-terminus. Most preferably, the N-terminus is acetylated and the C-terminus amidated with ammonia.

α-amino acids have at least one asymmetric carbon center with the exception of glycine. To distinguish the resulting enantiomers uses the expert the so-called D- / L-nomenclature. amino acids natural origin usually possess the L-configuration. The functionalized tetrapeptide is preferred from natural amino acids. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if all the amino acids of the functionalized tetrapeptide have the L configuration.

Most preferably, the functionalized tetrapeptide contains the amino acids L-tyrosine, L-proline and L-phenylalanine, it being preferred if L-phenylalanine is present twice. A very particularly preferred embodiment is given when the functionalized tetrapeptide consists of N-acetylated L-tyrosine, L-proline, L-phenylalanine and L-phenylalanine amide and has the formula (I):

The tetrapeptide according to formula (I) is also abbreviated to Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ or under the designations L-phenylalanine amide-N-acetyl-L-tyrosyl-L-prolyl-L-phenylalanyl or N-acetyl-L-tyrosyl L-prolyl-L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalaninamide known. The corresponding INCI name is Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15. A particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore given when the agent contains as functionalized tetrapeptide Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ .

Agents preferred according to the invention comprise the functionalized tetrapeptide in an amount of from 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight, in particular from 0.0001 to 0.05% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent. A particularly particularly preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.1 wt .-%, in particular from 0.0001 to 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

The agents according to the invention will be particularly advantageous used to change the color of keratinous fibers. According to the invention preferred Means are therefore characterized by the agent being color-modifying Component at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one substantive dye and / or at least one Precursor natural-nature dyes and / or at least one brightening agent contains.

In a first embodiment, the color-changing Components selected from oxidation dye precursors.

The Oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and especially preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use Oxidation colorant, used.

In a preferred embodiment, the inventive At least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and / or coupler type. Preferably, the inventive Colorant at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type.

The Developer and coupler components usually become used in free form. For substances with amino groups can However, it may be preferred to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of Hydrochloride and hydrobromide or sulfates use.

Inventive developer components are selected from p-phenylenediamine, binuclear developer components, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, heterocyclic developer components and / or the derivatives of the above classes of substances. The developer components are preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready Oxi dationsfärbemittel used.

preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more Compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethylp-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-2-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-Diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable Salt. Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

It may be further preferred according to the invention as a developer component to use compounds that at least contain two aromatic nuclei containing amino and / or hydroxyl groups are substituted. Preferred binuclear developer components in particular, at least one of the following compounds selected from: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- ethylenediamine (4'-aminophenyl), N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis [4- (methylamino) phenyl] tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenylethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5 aminophenyl) methane, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiologically acceptable salts. Especially preferred binuclear developer components are selected N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane . 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of Physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Farther it may be preferred according to the invention, as a developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable Use salts. Preferred p-aminophenols are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) aminomethyl] phenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts. Especially preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.

Further For example, the developer component can be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine , 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine. Preferred pyrazole derivatives are the compounds selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( 4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino 1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-t -butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3 - (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2 -aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, and their physiologically acceptable salts.

preferred Pyrazolopyrimidinderivate are in particular the derivatives of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine and its tautomeric forms, provided that a tautomeric equilibrium exists. The pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines are especially selected from pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 3-Amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine as well their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomers Shapes when there is a tautomeric equilibrium.

All particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group that is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) -propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Kupplerkomponenten do not form a significant part of the oxidative staining alone Coloring, but always need the present of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that when using at least one coupler component in addition at least one developer component is used.

Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected from m-aminophenol, m-diaminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene, o-aminophenol, naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group, di- or trihydroxybenzene, pyridine, pyrimidine, monohydroxy- or monoaminoindole, monohydroxy- or monoaminoindoline, pyrazolone , Benzomorpholine, quinoxaline
and / or the derivatives of the preceding classes of substance. The coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

The According to the invention preferred m-aminophenols or their derivatives are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5-methylaminobenzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and the physiologically acceptable Salts of all the above compounds.

The According to the invention preferred m-diaminobenzenes or their derivatives are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethylamino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-yl-phenylamino] -ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxy-ethoxy) -5-methyl-phenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and the physiological acceptable salts of the compounds mentioned.

The According to the invention preferred o-diaminobenzenes or their derivatives are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and the physiologically acceptable Salts of said compounds.

preferred Di- or trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives selected from at least one compound of the group, which is formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, Pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene.

The According to the invention are preferred pyridine derivatives selected from at least one compound of the group, which is formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethylamino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenylamino-3-aminopyridine, and the physiologically acceptable Salts of the aforementioned compounds.

preferred Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group that is formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene.

The According to the invention are preferred indole derivatives selected from at least one compound of the group, which is formed from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned Links.

The According to the invention are preferred indoline derivatives selected from at least one compound of the group, which is formed from 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned Links.

preferred Pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one Compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and the physiologically acceptable Salts of the aforementioned compounds.

Particularly according to the invention preferred coupler components are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-yl-phenyl) -amino] -ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxy-ethoxy) -5-methyl-phenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-8-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned Links.

Around the irritation potential of the invention It is preferred according to the invention, the oxidation dye precursors from dye precursors with predominantly select low irritation potential. Especially The oxidation dye precursors are therefore preferably selected from the group formed from 1,4-diamino-2- (2-hydroxyethyl) benzene 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-methylaminophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol hydrochloride, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol hydrochloride, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene Hydrochloride, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane hydrochloride, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine.

In this case, developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 . can stand.

Farther can the agents of the invention as Color-modifying component at least one substantive Dye included. These are dyes that directly put on hair and no oxidative process for training need the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, Nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. The substantive dyes are each preferably in one Amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation, used. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight. Direct dyes are as anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive Dyes known.

preferred anionic substantive dyes are among the international ones Designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, acid black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue Links.

preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems containing a quaternary Substituted nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as substantive dyes containing a heterocycle, which has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, especially Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. The cationic direct dyes, under the trademark Arianor are also according to the invention very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes.

When Nonionic substantive dyes are particularly suitable nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those of the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, Picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

Around the irritation potential of the invention It is preferred according to the invention, the direct dyes of dyes with predominantly select low irritation potential. Especially direct dyes are therefore preferably selected from the group that is formed from Basic Brown 17, Basic Brown 16, Basic Violet 2, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Acid Orange 7, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Black 1, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Acid Blue 9, HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 13, HC Orange 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Violet 1, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-1,4-diaminobenzene, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-4-methylaniline, 4- (3-hydroxypropyl) amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-Amino-2'-carboxyl-2-nitro-diphenylamine.

In another embodiment of the present invention becomes the color-changing component of dye precursors natural analog dyes selected.

The dyestuff precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably indoles and indolines which have at least two groups selected from hydroxy and / or amino groups, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a further embodiment, the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative. Compositions according to the invention which comprise precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably used as air-oxidative colorants. Consequently, in this embodiment said compositions are not added with an additional oxidizing agent. The dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation, used. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 3% by weight.

preferred Derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, in particular N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and more preferably 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

preferred Derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, preferably N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

It is not required that oxidation dye precursors, substantive Dyes or naturally-analogous dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts other components may be included, as far as they are not Dyeing result adversely affect or from others Reasons, z. As toxicological, must be excluded.

In another embodiment of the present invention becomes the color-changing component of brighteners selected. Such brightening agents are customary chemical oxidants that help natural and destroys artificial dyes in the hair and the hair is bleached with it. As brightening agents, therefore, come persulfates, Peroxomonosulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites and in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate in question.

Of the Lightening effect may also be desired in addition to a coloring be. The agents according to the invention can additionally also contain blonding and / or bleaching agents and thus provided as means coloring at the same time and brightening up. Such agents are hereinafter referred to as "colorants", as "lightening colorants" or as "dyeing and lightening agent ". It is therefore preferable if the agent additionally an oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products of organic and inorganic compounds. When solid addition products according to the invention come in particular the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and sodium borate in question.

Prefers is used as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide. Prefers is the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready to use Average 0.5 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 0.8 to 6 wt .-%, each based to the ready to use means.

Such Oxidizing agent preparations are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizing agent preparations. there preferred formulations are characterized in that the flowable Oxidizing agent preparation - based on its weight - 40 to 90% by weight, preferably 50 to 85% by weight, more preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 77.5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.

in the Case of oxidative staining, the development of the Color should always be done with atmospheric oxygen. Prefers However, a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially when, in addition to the coloring, a whitening effect on human Hair is desired. According to the invention but the color change agent as an oxidation colorant also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst, the oxidation of the dye precursors, eg. B. by atmospheric oxygen, activated. Such catalysts are z. Certain enzymes, iodides, Quinones or metal ions.

For the strong lightening of very dark hair is the sole use of hydrogen peroxide or its addition products to organic or inorganic compounds often insufficient. In these cases, a combination is usually made Hydrogen peroxide and inorganic persulfates used, from which an increase in the clearing power of the funds results. Preferred persulfate salt are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

The Peroxodisulfate salts may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 25 Wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent be. The use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts usually takes the form of an optionally dedusted powder or a molding pressed in the form.

at an application of additional oxidants the actual dyeing and / or brightening expediently immediately before use by mixing a novel A preparation containing at least one in a cosmetic carrier Oxidation dye precursor, and a preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide, produced. The agent according to the invention can while the functionalized tetrapeptide in the preparation with oxidation dye precursors and / or in the oxidizing agent preparation. Prefers contains the preparation with oxidation dye precursors the functionalized tetrapeptide.

Becomes a strong brightening desired, it is preferred according to the invention, if additionally a bleaching preparation containing at least an inorganic, the oxidizer preparation before mixing with the dyeing preparation according to the invention is added.

• – ”Wellmittel” für die wässrige Zubereitung der keratinreduzierenden Substanz,
• – ”Zwischenspülung” für die erste Spülung und
• – ”Fixiermittel” für die wässrige Zubereitung des Oxidationsmittels.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are permanently shape-changing agents. These agents usually consist of two or three preparations, which are successively applied to the fibers. The following terms are used below:

• "Corrugating agent" for the aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance,
• - "intermediate rinse" for the first rinse and
• - "Fixer" for the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent.

Even though the inventive combination of at least a polyalkoxylated fatty body and at least one animal care component in principle in each of the above Preparations can be used, it has been found to be particularly according to the invention preferably proven when it is contained in the corrugating agent.

The Waving agents according to the invention necessarily contain at least one keratin-reducing substance as form-changing Component, preferably mercaptans. Such compounds are, for example Thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, Mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters, cysteamine, Cysteine, colored salts and salts of sulphurous acid. Prefers suitable as shape-changing components are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid as well as the free acids. These are in the corrugated medium preferably in concentrations of 0.5 to 1.0 mol / kg at a pH from 5 to 12, especially from 7 to 9.5 used. To adjustment this pH value contain the inventive Waving agents usually alkalizing agents such as ammonia, Alkali and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic Amines such as monoethanolamine.

Furthermore, the corrugated lotions according to the invention may contain components which enhance the power, preferably selected from heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine, piperazine and derivatives of these compounds, in particular 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1 , 2-Dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2-ethylpiperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2 Hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine, biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole, with imidazole being particularly preferred; Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine, lysine, oligopeptides from an average of 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, especially> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, and their salts, preferably arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides; Diols such as 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol, wherein 1,3-diols, in particular 2 Ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol are particularly preferred. For more information on such Wellkraftverstärkenden components is to the publications DE-OS-4436065 and EP363057B1 referenced, the contents of which are expressly incorporated by reference.

The Wellkraftverstärkenden connections can in the corrugated lotions according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total wave lotion included be. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of diols from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these quantities are particularly preferred.

Mandatory component of the fixing agents according to the invention are oxidizing agents, for. For example, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, hydrogen peroxide, and the usual stabilizers for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide stabilizers. Aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations which can be used according to the invention contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of hydrogen peroxide, ready for use. The pH of such aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations is preferably 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4 and is characterized by inorganic Acids, preferably phosphoric acid, adjusted. Bromate-based fixatives are usually used in concentrations of from 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Also suitable are enzymatic-based fixatives (eg peroxidases) which contain no or only small amounts of oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

The corrugating agent or fixing agent according to the invention are usually formulated in a single phase, including of this term are systems that have a continuous Phase, such as pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. It turned out that According to the invention also two-phase and multi-phase systems are preferred. These are systems where at least two separate, continuous Phases are present.

Farther It has proven to be advantageous if the oxidizing agent preparations from oxidation dyes, brighteners and / or fixatives of shape-modifying agents at least one stabilizer or Complexing agent included. Common and in the context of For example, preferred chelating agents in the present invention are Polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in particular ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, especially 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), Aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP), diethylenetriamine penta (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), Phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid as well Cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), alkali pyrophosphates (Tetrasodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate), alkali phosphates (Sodium phosphate), and phosphoric acid.

According to the invention preferred contain the agents complexing agent to 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the inventive Agent.

Independently of whether it is the agent of the invention a color-change agent or a shape-change agent is, it is inventively preferred that the agent additionally an oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products of organic and inorganic compounds. When solid addition products according to the invention come in particular the solid addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and sodium borate in question.

Regarding the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent to the preceding, depending on the application area preferred quantities directed.

The Means according to the invention contain further auxiliary and additives.

In a preferred embodiment contains the Composition according to the invention further at least one hydroxyl-carrying Carboxylic acid or one of its physiologically acceptable Salts. These are mono- but preferably polycarboxylic acids. Examples of usable according to the invention, Hydroxyl-carrying carboxylic acids are both in the form of the free acid as well as in the form of physiological compatible salts, lactic acid, tartaric acid, Malic acid, but more preferably citric acid. According to the invention preferred Means are therefore characterized by the agent in addition Citric acid and / or one of their compatible Contains salts.

Prefers the agent according to the invention contains citric acid and / or one of their compatible salts to 0.01 to 1 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

It it has been found that by adding a water-soluble, organic solvent in the inventive Means the hair damage further reduced.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore provided in that the agent further contains at least one water-soluble, organic solvent. The organic solvents are liquid at room temperature under normal pressure. By water-soluble herein is meant the miscibility in any ratio under normal conditions. Preferred organic solvents are C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohols which optionally carry further functional groups for improving the water solubility, such as, for example, 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, Glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preferred water-soluble organic solvents contain at least two hydroxyl groups. These are preferably selected from the group formed from 1,2-ethanediol, 1,2-propanediol (1,2-propylene glycol), 1,3-propane diol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethanol and glycerin. Glycerol is particularly preferred.

Prefers the agent according to the invention contains water-soluble, organic solvents at 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably to 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

It It has further been shown that the skin irritation by hair dyeing and / or Haarwellmittel by the addition certain caring substances additionally unexpectedly clear can be reduced. As according to the invention especially advantageous additional care substance has thereby the Cell protective agent ectoine (4S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methylpyrimidines-4-carboxylic acid acid; INCI name: Ectoin).

A Further preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore given by the fact that the agent additionally Ectoin contains. Preferably, the inventive Mean ectoine at 0.0001 to 3.0 wt%, preferably 0.001 to 1.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready for use Agent.

By adding surface-active compounds, the effectiveness of the agents according to the invention can be further improved. Surface-active compounds of the nonionic surfactant type have proven particularly advantageous. Such compounds are, for example, adducts of polyethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, wherein addition products of polyethylene oxide to fatty alcohols are particularly preferred which have an average degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 45, in particular from 12 to 30, such as steareth-20, coceth-15, oleth-20 or also Ceteareth-30; mono- or polyglycerylated fatty alcohols, such as those listed under the INCI names polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether or polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether compounds; C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol; Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters such as poly (3) glycerol diisostearate (commercial product: Lameform TGI (Henkel)) and poly (2) glycerol polyhydroxy stearate (commercial product: Dehymuls PGPH (Henkel)); alkoxylated, preferably propoxylated and in particular ethoxylated, mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as, for example, glycerol monolaurate + 20 EO (mol of ethylene oxide) and glycerol monostearate + 20 EO; Amine oxides; Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan monolaurate + 20 EO; Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters; Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines; Fatty acid-N-alkyl; Polyethylene oxide addition products to hydrogenated and / or unhydrogenated castor oil, such as the INCI name PEG-5 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-10 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, as well as PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil known compounds; Alkylphenols and Alkylphenolalkoxylate having 6 to 21, in particular 6 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, such as nonylphenol + 4 EO, nonylphenol + 9 EO, octylphenol + 3 EO and octylphenol + 8 EO and alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

Suitable nonionic surfactants are, in particular, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs. In particular, the nonethoxylated compounds have been found to be particularly suitable. Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides of the formula RO- (Z) _x , in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ -alkyl groups, of C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkyl groups, of C C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl groups or C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl groups. As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8. Agents preferred according to the invention contain as nonionic surfactant the adduct of coconut fatty alcohol with (poly) glucose, which is known by the INCI name Coco-Glucoside.

Agents preferred according to the invention contain the nonionic surfactant in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the application prepare means.

Preferably the ready-to-use agents are flowable Preparations dar. Preferably contain the flowable Preparations additionally as surface-active Substance an emulsifier or a surfactant, wherein surface-active Substances depending on the field of application as surfactants or as emulsifiers and anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are. These substances will be described in detail below.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds , In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated fatty acids (soaps); optionally polyalkoxylated ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x CH ₂ COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group and x = 0 or a number from 1 to 16; sarcosides; acyltaurides; isethionates; Sulfosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups; linear alkanesulfonates; linear α-olefin sulfonates; Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids; α-sulfofatty acid methyl ester of fatty acids; Alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x SO ₃ H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group and x = 0 or a number from 1 to 12; Mixtures of surface active hydroxysulfonates; sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers; Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; optionally polyalkoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates; sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters and monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, respectively with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, and polyalkoxylated Ethercarbonsäuren having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.

When zwitterionic surfactants become such surface active Compounds referred to in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, Sulfonate or sulfate group wear. Particularly suitable zwitterionic Surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example, the Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is that under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the agent further contains at least one amphoteric surfactant. Amphoteric surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are sold under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate with the trade names Miranol C2M SF conc. (Rhodia), Amphoterge K-2 (Lonza) and Monateric CEM-38 (Unichema) and designation Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate with the trade names Dehyton (Cognis), Miranol C2M (Rhodia) and Ampholak XCO 30 (Akzo Nobel).

Of the Addition in the inventive agent causes a Excellent finish, especially improved wet combability.

The anionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are preferred in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and most preferably from 1 to 20 wt .-%, based on the Total amount of ready-to-use agent used.

According to the invention preferred are also cationic surfactants of the quaternary type Ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines. preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above Surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Further Cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention represent the quaternized protein hydrolysates.

Also According to the invention are advantageous quaternary Ester compounds, so-called "esterquats". at Esterquats are known substances which are at least an ester function as well as at least one quaternary ammonium group included as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized Ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized Ester salts of fatty acids with Diethanolalkylaminen and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines, such as N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride. Such For example, products are sold under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart and Armocare expelled.

The cationic surfactants are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It has proved to be advantageous according to the invention when agents contain at least one thickener. In terms of This thickener is not subject to any restrictions. It can be both organic and purely inorganic Thickening agents are used.

Preferably, the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer. Preferred anionic polymers are acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers which are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the agent, are included. Further preferably, the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Such polymers can also be used as copolymers with nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl ester. Nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone, are also useful as thickeners of the invention. Preference is furthermore given to using naturally occurring, optionally modified thickening agents. These include z. Guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, vegetable gums such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses. As inorganic thickeners, phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) have proven to be particularly suitable in the context of the present invention. In particular clays, in particular magnesium aluminum silicates, such as, for example, bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally also be suitably modified, and synthetic sheet silicates are preferred.

It has turned out to be advantageous for further reducing the irritation potential of the agents according to the invention if the agents are free of organic UV light protection filter substances. Under UV light protection filters are organic substances that are able to absorb ultra-violet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. The agent according to the invention preferably contains no UV filter substances from the following substance classes: 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, eg. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophe non, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as. 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone; Propane-1,3-diones, such as. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the agents according to the invention are free from UV protection filters selected from the group consisting of 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzophenone derivatives, benzalmalonic acids, triazine derivatives, propane-1 , 3-diones, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acids, benzophenone sulfonic acids and benzoylmethane derivatives. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free from UV light protection filters" means that the ready-to-use agents are less than 0.05% by weight, preferably less than 0.005% by weight and very particularly preferably less than 0.0001% by weight of UV radiation. Sunscreens selected from the group consisting of 3-benzylidene camphor and derivatives thereof, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzophenone derivatives, benzalmalonic acids, triazine derivatives, propane-1,3-diones, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acids, benzophenone sulfonic acids and Benzoylmethane derivatives, included.

Furthermore, it has turned out to be advantageous with regard to reduction of the skin irritation if the agent according to the invention is free of paraben-based preservatives. Parabens are known in the art as preservatives for food as well as for cosmetic products. In the context of the present application, paraben-based preservatives are the branched and unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₀ -alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their physiologically tolerated salts, the so-called 4-hydroxybenzoates. Most preferably, the agents of the invention are free from methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (methyl paraben), ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (ethyl paraben), propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (propyl paraben), 2-propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (isopropyl paraben), Butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (butyl paraben), 2-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (isobutyl paraben) and n-heptyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (heptyl paraben) and the sodium and / or potassium salts of methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are therefore free from paraben-based preservatives. Free of paraben-based preservatives in the sense of the present invention means that the ready-to-use agents less than 0.005 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.0005 wt .-% and most preferably less than 0.00001 wt .-% of Parabens selected from the group formed by the branched and unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen (wie Dimethicone), Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die jeweils flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch (INCI-Bezeichnung Cyclomethicone), vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen (INCI-Bezeichnung: Amodimethicone u/o Trimethylsilylamodimethicone); (per)fluorierten Gruppen; Thiolgruppen; Carboxylatgruppen; hydroxylierten Gruppen (insb. Dimethiconcopolyole); alkoxylierten Gruppen; Acyloxyalkylgruppen; amphoteren Gruppen; Bisulfitgruppen; Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; Carboxygruppen; Sulfonsäuregruppen; und Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

Finally, it has proven to be advantageous if the agent according to the invention is free of silicones. For the purposes of the present application, silicones are to be understood as meaning volatile and nonvolatile silicones. In particular, the agents according to the invention are free from silicones selected from

• (i) polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones), polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, each of which is volatile or nonvolatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic (INCI name cyclomethicone), crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups (INCI name: amodimethicone and / or trimethylsilylamodimethicone); (per) fluorinated groups; thiol; carboxylate groups; hydroxylated groups (especially dimethicone copolyols); alkoxylated groups; acyloxyalkyl; amphoteric groups; bisulphite; hydroxyacylamino groups; carboxy; sulfonic acid groups; and sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

Such Silicones are sold, for example, under the trade names: Dow Corning 929 emulsion (hydroxylamino-modified silicone, amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl trimethicone), DC 5-7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker), Abil-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80), Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), DC 8500 (bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, Dow Corning), Silcare Silicone SEA (Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone, Clariant), SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation), Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Polyol) and Dow Corning 193. Free of silicones in the sense of The present invention means that the ready-to-use Average less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.005% by weight and most preferably less than 0.0001% by weight of silicones, respectively based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

Completely according to the invention particularly preferred agents are free of the above UV sunscreen filters, free of paraben-based preservatives and free of silicones.

In addition, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, anionic polymers, structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, fiber-structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono- , Di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, defoamers such as silicones, preferably dimethicone, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents, drugs such as amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates, polyphenols and (pseudo) ceramides, panthenol, pantothenic acid , Pantolactone, allantoin, Pyrrolidinoncarbonsauren and salts thereof and bisabolol, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, especially those of groups A, B3, B5, B6, C, E, F and H, plant extracts, fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffin e, swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerine, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG 3-distearate, pigments, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, and antioxidants.

The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of the cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced.

According to the invention preferred Means for color and shape change of the hair are characterized characterized in that they have a pH as neutral as possible have. Another preferred embodiment of the present invention Invention is that the ready-to-use means a pH between 4.0 and 12.0, preferably between 5.0 and 11.5, particularly preferably has between 6.0 and 11.0. At the pH values for the purposes of the present invention are pH values, which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C. Usually the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters. To adjustment of the pH are common to those skilled in the cosmetics Acidifying and alkalizing agents common. The to Adjustment of the pH can be used alkalizing agent typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, especially amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Acidifying agents preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as citric acid, Acetic, malic or tartaric acid, and diluted mineral acids.

According to the invention preferred Alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of is formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, Barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, Potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, 2-aminoethane-1-ol (Monoethanolamine), triethanolamine, ammonia, 1-aminopropan-2-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.

The finishing of the color and shape-changing agents according to the invention is subject in principle to no restrictions. Usually, the agents according to the invention are formulated as 1-component agents which, if appropriate, are mixed immediately before use with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent. However, it has also proven to be preferred in some cases when the product is formulated as a 2-component agent. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately. It does not matter according to the invention, which the components of the invention is packaged separately; however, it may be preferable to package the preparation containing the functionalized tetrapeptide separately until use.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers and wherein a container is a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, preferably Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ , and having a pH between 5.0 and 12.0, preferably between 6.0 and 11.0 contains, and another container containing an oxidizing agent preparation at least one oxidizing agent.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for changing the color and / or shape of keratinous fibers, in which an inventive means according to the above Specifications applied to the hair, for a contact time from 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 15 to 30 minutes on the hair is left, and then rinsed the hair becomes.

A preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for changing the color of keratinic fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, preferably Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ , with an oxidant preparation containing hydrogen peroxide, to a homogeneous composition mixed, this is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the hair is rinsed out. The application temperatures in the color change of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C. After a period of exposure, the hair dye is removed by rinsing the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

A further preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for permanently modifying keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one keratin-reducing substance and at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, preferably Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ , is applied to the hair Exposure time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes left on the hair, and then optionally the hair is rinsed. Subsequently, a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and preferably additionally at least one stabilizer or complexing agent, applied to the hair, left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the Hair is rinsed out. The application temperatures in the case of the permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C. After an exposure time, the fixative is removed by rinsing off the hair. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.

In terms of further preferred embodiments of the invention Method applies mutatis mutandis to the invention Means said.

As already mentioned, the inventive Means also separated directly before the application of two or more packaged preparations are produced. This is particularly suitable to separate incompatible ingredients to a premature one To avoid reaction. The ready-to-use means is used in such Systems by the consumer directly before use by mixing made of components. A coloring and / or whitening agent, in which the oxidation dye precursors initially separated from the oxidizing agent preparation, containing preferably hydrogen peroxide, are present, it is preferred.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separate containers, wherein a container at least one container a color and / or shape-changing compound and at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, preferably Ac-YPFF -NH ₂ , and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

A preferred embodiment of this subject matter of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separately assembled Container, wherein a container comprises a dyeing mixture in a cosmetic carrier, comprising at least one coloring component, in particular at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, preferably Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ , and a container an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide , contains.

Becomes a particularly strong whitening effect through the use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts, it is preferred according to the invention this of the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention (Kit-of-Parts) in the form of an optionally dedusted powder or a shaped article pressed in the form of separately packed, add additional component.

A further preferred embodiment of the subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separately prepared containers, one container comprising a shape-change mixture in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one shape-modifying component and at least one functionalized tetrapeptide, preferably Ac-YPFF -NH ₂ , and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide. The multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferably additionally contains an instruction manual. In addition, it may be preferred if, further, a mixing aid, such as a shell, an application aid, such as a comb or a brush, and / or personal protective equipment, such as disposable gloves attached to the kit. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

One Another object of the invention is the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for reducing the damage the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human Hair.

One Another object of the invention is finally the use the means of the first subject of the invention for improving the Skin compatibility in the color and / or permanent Shape change of human hair.

In terms of further preferred embodiments of the invention Uses applies mutatis mutandis to the invention Means said.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it thereto. Examples 1) Dyeing creams raw material E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 Lanette D. 6.60 6.60 6.60 6.60 6.60 5.50 Lorol techn. 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.43 2.00 Eumulgin B2 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.50 Eumulgin B1 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.50 Lamesoft PO 65 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Akypo Soft 45HP 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Texapon K 14 S Special, 70% 2.80 2.80 2.80 2.80 2.80 2.80 Product W 37194 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 p-Toluylenediamine 0,300 0.822 0,029 - 1,533 1,161 resorcinol 0,350 0.416 0.011 - 0.410 0,298 2-methyl 0.246 - - 0,004 0,343 0,128 5-amino-2-methylphenol - 0.023 0.001 - - - 4-amino-3-methylphenol 0,460 0.019 - - - - 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol - 0.047 - - - - Bis- (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane 2HCl - 0.539 - 0,010 - - 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol 2HCl - - 0,002 - - - 3-aminophenol - - 0,002 - - 0.058 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene - - - 0.104 - - 2,4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidinsulfat - - - 0.146 - - 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine - - - - 0.046 0.078 Ammonium sulfate, techn. purely 0.82 0.51 1.00 0.92 - 0.50 Sodium sulfite, anhydrous, 96% 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 HEDP, 60% 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 - 0.20 Sodium hydroxide, 45% 1.00 1.12 0.10 0.30 1.70 - Potassium hydroxide, 50% - - - - - 0.90 ascorbic acid - - - - - 0.05 Sodium silicate 40/42 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 L-serine 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 - Skinasensyl PW LS 9852 2.00 1.00 1.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 Ronacare Ectoin - 0.50 1.00 - 0.50 1.00 Ammonia, 25% 7.00 6.50 7.00 7.00 6.50 7.50 Perfume qs qs qs qs qs qs Water, demineralized ad 100 Lanette D. C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis) Lorol tech. C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis) Eumulgin B2 C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (20 EO) (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis) Eumulgin B1 C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (12 EO) (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis) Lamesoft PO 65 C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyl polyglucoside, glyceryl monooleate (about 66%, INCI Name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua) (Cognis) Akypo Soft 45HP C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl ether, ethoxylated (6 EO) carboxylic acid, sodium salt (about 21%, INCI name: Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Aqua) (KAO) Texapon K14 S Special C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl ether sulfate, ethoxylated (3 EO), sodium salt (about 70%, INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Aqua) (Cognis) Product W 37194 Copolymer of acrylic acid, sodium salt and Trimethylammoniopropylacrylamide chloride (about 20%, INCI Name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Aqua) (Stockhausen) Sodium silicate 40/42 Natronwasserglas Skinasensyl PW LS 9852 Mannitol, sodium citrate, 0.1-1.0 wt.% Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ (INCI-Be Drawing: mannitol, sodium citrate, acetyl tetrapeptide-15) (Laboratoires serobiologiques) Ronacare Ectoin (4S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methylpyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid (INCI Name: Ectoin) (Rona) raw materials E7 E8 Color powder mixture * 2.33 2.33 Ammonium carbomer, 1% 12,00 12,00 Lanette E, powder 0.56 0.56 Texapon NSF, 27% 3.52 3.52 Potassium oleate, 12.5% 2.40 2.40 Cutina GMS SE 1.60 1.60 Cutina AGS 1.60 1.60 Eutanol G 1.60 1.60 Hydrenol D 9.60 9.60 Eumulgin B2 2.40 2.40 L-serine 0.50 0.50 Phospholipid EFA 0.10 0.10 Na ₄ -EDTA, powder, 87% 0.20 0.20 Hydro Vance 2.00 2.00 Skinasensyl LS 9749 4.00 2.00 Ronacare Ectoin - 0.50 ascorbic acid 0.05 0.05 Sodium sulfite, anhydrous, 96% 0.20 0.20 Ammonia, 25% 6.00 6.00 Potassium hydroxide, 50% 0.85 0.85 Perfume qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 * Dye mixture containing 59.1 wt .-% p-toluenediamine sulfate, 6.6 wt .-% of 3-aminophenol, 22.7 wt .-% resorcinol, 0.8 wt .-% 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisolsulfat and 10.8 wt .-% silica, pyrogenic, in each case based on the total weight of the dye mixture. Lanette E, powder C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol sulfate, sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) (Cognis) Texapon NSF, 27% C ₁₂ fatty alcohol sulfate, ethoxylated (2 EO) sodium salt (INCI Name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis) Cutina GMS SE Stearic Acid Glyceryl Ester (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) (Cognis) Cutina AGS Ethylene glycol distearyl ester (INCI name: Glycol Distearate) (Cognis) Eutanol G 2-octyldodecanol (INCI name: octyldodecanol) (Cognis) Hydrenol D C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis) Phospholipid EFA zwitterionic phospholide (INCI name: Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate) (Uniqema) Hydro Vance Hydroxyethyl urea (about 50%, INCI name: hydroxy ethylura, Aqua) (National Starch) Skinasensyl LS 9749 Glycerol, 0.1-1.0% by weight Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ (INCI name: Aqua, Glycerol, acetyl tetrapeptide-15) (Laboratoires serobiologiques) raw material E9 E10 E11 E12 Cetiol V 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.30 Xanthan FN 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Lanette N 14.00 14.00 14.00 14.00 Lanette D. 3.90 3.90 3.90 3.90 Cutina GMS SE 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Cocoamidopropylbetaine, 40% 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Monoethanolamine 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium sulphite anhydrous, 96% 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 RonaCare Ectoin 1.00 1.00 - - Skinasensyl PW LS 9852 1.00 1.00 1.00 2.00 ascorbic acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ammonia, 25% 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazolsulfat 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 5-amino-2-methylphenol 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol 0.30 - 0.30 - Water, demineralized add 100 Cetiol V Oleic acid decyl ester (INCI name: Decyl Oleate) (Cognis) Xanthan FN Xanthan Gum (INCI name: Xantahn Gum) (Jungbunzlauer) Lanette N C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, sodium C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol sulfate (INCI Be Drawing: Cetearyl alcohol, Soium Cetearyl Sulfate) (Cognis)

The fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold. 2) Developer preparations EW1: raw material EW [% by weight] dipicolinic 0.10 disodiumpyrophosphate 0.03 HEDP, 60% 1.50 Texapon NSO 2.00 Dow Corning DB 110A 0.07 Aculyn 33A 15.00 Ammonia, 25% 0.65 Water, demineralized ad 100 DR2: raw material Wt .-% Na benzoate 0.04 dipicolinic 0.10 disodiumpyrophosphate 0.19 1,2-propanediol 0.50 HEDP, 60% 0.25 Paraffin Liquidum 0.30 Genamine STAC 0.20 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 Eumulgin B2 0.70 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 12.2 Potassium hydroxide, 50% 0.19 water ad 100 Texapon NSO UP Lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate, Na salt (about 28%, INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis) Aculyn 33 Acrylic polymer (about 28% in water, INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) (Rohm & Haas) Dow Corning DB 110 nonionic silicone emulsion (INCI name: dimethicone) (Dow Corning) Genamine STAC Trimethylstearylammonium chloride (about 80% active ingredient; Name: Steartrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

3) colorations:

The Dye creams E1 to E6 were given before use with a Developer solution EW1 in the weight ratio of 1: 1 offset and intimately mixed. The coloring creams E7 and E8 were used before with a developer solution EW2 added in a weight ratio of 1: 1 and intimately mixed. Dye creams E9 to E12 were used before application a 6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide preparation in a weight ratio from 1: 1 to 1: 2 and intimately mixed. Per gram of hair (European Human hair, Alkinco 6634, # 10/2003, A9), 4 g of the freshly prepared, ready for use coloring applied. The exposure time was 30 min at 35 ° C for the colorants. Thereafter, the tresses were rinsed with warm water for 30 seconds and air-dried. The dyed strands drew through shiny colors and a pleasant grip out.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 4436065 [0071]
• - EP 363057 B1 [0071]

Cited non-patent literature

• - Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989 [0108]

Claims (15)

Agent for color and / or shape modification of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing component, characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one functionalized tetrapeptide. Means according to claim 1, characterized in that the functionalized tetrapeptide as functionalizations at the N-terminus an acetylation and / or amidination with ammonia at the C-terminus having. Agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized that all amino acids of the functionalized tetrapeptide L configuration. Composition according to claim 1 to 3, characterized in that the agent contains as functionalized tetrapeptide Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ . Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that it contains Ac-YPFF-NH ₂ in an amount of from 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight, in particular from 0.0001 to 0.05% by weight, based in each case on the Total weight of the ready-to-use agent. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the agent is used as a color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least a direct dye and / or at least one precursor natural-analogous dyes and / or at least one brightening agent. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the agent additionally citric acid and / or one of their compatible salts. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the means additionally a water-soluble, organic solvent with at least two hydroxyl groups selected from the group comprising 1,2-ethanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethanol and glycerin. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the means as additional Component Ectoin contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the agent additionally Oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide as well its solid addition products to organic and inorganic Compounds, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is free of UV filter substances, selected from the group formed from 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid esters, Salicylic acid esters, benzophenone derivatives, benzalmalonic acids, triazine derivatives, Propane-1,3-diones, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acids, Benzophenonsulfonsäuren and Benzoylmethanderivaten. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is free of preservatives Paraben-based. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is free of silicones. Use of an agent according to a of claims 1 to 13 for improving the skin compatibility in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human Hair. Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), containing at least two separately formulated Container, wherein a container is a color and / or shape-changing A compound according to any one of the claims 1 to 13 and a container contains an oxidizer composition, containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular Hydrogen peroxide.