DE102009009004A1 - Dispensing device, preferably pump preferably with a sprayable and/or non-sprayable cosmetic liquid, where the cosmetic liquid comprises single phase solution, mixture of non-miscible liquid phases, and oil-in-water-/water-in-oil-emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

Dispensing device (1), preferably pump preferably with a sprayable and/or non-sprayable cosmetic liquid (2), is claimed, where the cosmetic liquid comprises a single phase solution; a mixture of liquid phases, which are not-miscible with each other; an oil-in-water-emulsion or a water-in-oil-emulsion.

Description

The The present invention relates to a dispenser having a cosmetic fluid according to the preamble of the claim 1.

Under The term "dispenser" is in the present Invention in particular a metering pump or hand-operated To understand pump for delivering a preferably cosmetic fluid. However, it can also be any other dispensing device, such as a container, dispensing or spraying head, dispenser or the like, in particular for a cosmetic fluid, act.

Under The term "cosmetic fluid" is in one narrower sense hair spray, hair lacquer, a deodorant, a foam, a Gel, a color spray, a sunscreen or skin care product, skin cream, Lotion o. The like. To understand. Preferably, in another Sense but also other personal care products, cleaning products, o. The like., And also suspensions and fluids, especially with gas phases, includes. Next, as other liquids, For example, air freshener, and especially technical Liquids and fluids, such as rust remover or the like, be used. However, for simplicity's sake, and due to the focus of use often only from a cosmetic Fluid spoken.

In In industry it is often the case that dispensers and the contents of different, specialized ones Manufacturers under each essentially only their own problem be developed. this leads to inevitably when merging these two Product lines to compatibility issues that are expensive must be eliminated.

Therefore The present invention is based on the object, an improved Combination of dispenser and preferably cosmetic Specify fluid, with a secure and / or defined closing and / or opening an intake valve in particular at different viscosities or consistency of the cosmetic fluid is achievable and the chosen formulations the different cosmetic fluids optimally on the function the Abga device and the respective goal of the user or User are matched.

The The above object is achieved by a dispenser with a cosmetic Fluid solved according to claim 1. advantageous Further developments are the subject of the dependent claims.

One Aspect of the present invention lies therein, the formulations of the preferably cosmetic fluid on the design of the dispensing device to vote, so that in particular a perfect function the delivery device with optimal care effect of skin and hair is guaranteed.

One Another aspect of the present invention is a valve flap and an associated biasing member at an edge of the pump deformable, flexible section or at its side or laterally next to at least extensive or complete decoupling the valve flap and biasing element or their movements or Movability of the deformation of the section or to arrange vice versa. This allows in particular a defined and safer closing and / or opening the intake valve.

Preferably slides the biasing element when opening the valve the valve flap off. This is also an improvement in the opening and closing behavior of the valve conducive. In particular, it can be ensured that even when Closing the valve, the biasing element constantly abuts the valve flap and this in the closed position continuously biased and especially in the closed position with sufficient preload holds.

Further Advantages, features, characteristics and aspects of the present invention result from the claims and the following description a preferred embodiment of the dispensing device based the drawing. The single figure shows: a schematic section a proposed dispensing device.

The figure shows a proposed dispensing device 1 for dispensing a preferably cosmetic liquid 2 in the sense mentioned above. The liquid 2 can be much higher viscous than water or possibly even pasty.

The liquid 2 is spraying, especially as a spray or spray, or liquid, in particular as a jet, or pasty, foamy or as a gel, dispensable.

The dispenser 1 is preferably a bag or container three for the supply of the liquid 2 assigned to which the dispenser 1 If necessary, releasably secured or vice versa. Thus, if necessary, an exchange of the bag, container three o. The like. And / or refilling the liquid 2 respectively. Alternatively, the dispenser 1 also a reservoir for the liquid 2 or make the container itself.

The dispenser 1 preferably has a first component 4 , in particular a lower part, and a second component 5 on. The second component 5 is with the first component 4 preferably insoluble, liquid-tight and in particular gas-tight connected or connectable.

The first and / or second component 4 . 5 is preferably or in each case rigidly and / or integrally formed, in particular of a suitable, preferably food-safe plastic, in particular a polyolefin, such as PP (polypropylene) or PE (polyethylene), sprayed or produced in any other way.

The second component 5 is preferably used to attach or hold another component, in particular an upper part or elastically deformable part or section 6 , Particularly preferred is the section 6 from the second component 5 formed or formed on this or vice versa.

In particular, the section 6 a border 7 on, in particular transversely to the main deformation direction of the section 6 and / or preferably parallel to the main extension plane of the preferably substantially flat second component 5 extends. The deformable section (pump section) 6 and its edge 7 are preferably made in one piece from a suitably elastically deformable material, in particular injection molded. In addition, the other component (section 6 with optional border 7 ) also be provided in particular integrally with other sections, components or the like, such as an exhaust valve, as explained in more detail later.

In the illustration example, the second component is 5 to the section 6 or edge 7 or another connection area sprayed or vice versa or otherwise unsolvable and in particular liquid-tight connected with it. This allows a simple production, for example by so-called "bi-injection", ie in particular injection molding of a further material in the same injection mold, in which a first material is formed. In particular, such a chemical and / or mechanical connection is made possible.

Alternatively or additionally, the second component 5 with the section 6 or edge 7 or another connection region by an undercut, recess, opening, overlap o. The like. Connected or held.

However, it may be in the further component and the second component 5 also act on separate components.

The terms "base" and "top" in the illustration correspond to the preferred arrangement or orientation of the dispenser 1 with normal use. However, this is not necessarily the case. Accordingly, depending on needs, application, training u. Like. The lower part and the upper part are also in any spatial orientation to each other or be aligned.

The section 6 is preferably elastically deformable and / or at least substantially hemispherical, dome-shaped or curved.

Particularly preferred is between the first component 4 and the further component or section 6 a recording or pump room 8th for the liquid 2 formed or thereof - at least partially - limited.

The dispenser 1 is preferably as a pump with an inlet valve 9 and an exhaust valve 10 educated. Preferably, the further component forms together with the first component 4 the inlet valve 9 and / or exhaust valve 10 , However, the valves can 9 . 10 basically also be formed separately.

The valves 9 . 10 are preferably designed as self-closing one-way valves.

In the illustrated example, the intake valve 9 a particular elastically deformable or held or flexible valve flap 11 on, the one opening 12 - In particular, an inlet to the pump chamber 8th - optional or occlusive. Next, the inlet valve 9 a particular elastically deformable or held or flexible biasing element 13 on top of the opening 12 opposite side of the valve flap 11 abuts and biases this in the closed position.

The valve flap 11 and the biasing element 13 are on the edge 7 of the section 6 arranged, in particular integrally formed on the further component or molded or integrally formed by this. By this lateral arrangement, an at least extensive or even complete decoupling of the intake valve 9 from a deformation of the section 6 be achieved. The valve flap 11 and the biasing element 13 Thus, they can at least largely independent of the deformation state of the section 6 move, deform, be deflected or the like. Thus, a closing behavior and / or opening behavior of the intake valve, which is defined in comparison to the prior art 9 be achieved.

In the illustration example, the biasing element is 13 in particular at the transition of the preferably hemispherical, dome-shaped or arched portion 6 to the edge 7 arranged or molded. In particular, the biasing member extends 13 - at least in the uninstalled or undeformed state - substantially in extension of the side wall of the section 6 or substantially perpendicular to the edge 7 or to the main plane of the second component 5 or further component. However, other configurations or arrangements are possible here as well.

The valve flap 11 is preferably radially outward or further spaced from the flexible portion 6 on the edge 7 or further component attached or molded on. Preferably, the valve flap extends 11 in the non-installed or non-deformed state also at least substantially perpendicular to the edge 7 or to the main plane of the second component 5 or further component and / or in particular substantially parallel to the biasing element 13 in the uninstalled or undeformed state.

The tongue-like or leaf-spring-like valve flap in particular 11 is against the inlet opening 12 preloaded and especially in the pump room 8th arranged. The valve flap 11 is by the preferably also tongue, lobe or web-like biasing element 13 against the inlet opening 12 biased.

The biasing element 13 supports the closing of the valve flap 11 - Especially with liquid 2 high viscosity - and ensures that the inlet valve 9 during normal operation (depression or deformation of the section 6 ) remains closed.

The biasing element 13 preferably extends through the pump room 8th or the pump room 8th ,

The biasing element 13 preferably extends at least over the entire width of the opening 12 or the valve flap 11 , in the representation so perpendicular to the plane. More precisely, the biasing element lies 13 in this direction preferably continuously or linearly on the valve flap 11 and in particular forms a rectilinear investment edge. The biasing element 13 So at least over the entire width of the inlet opening 12 or the valve flap 11 at the valve flap 11 at. So will a possible buckling of the valve flap 11 - In particular, one to the contact edge of the biasing member 13 transverse axis - prevents. Accordingly, the intake valve closes 9 especially safe.

In the illustrated example, the exhaust valve 10 preferably also from the further component or edge 7 of the section 6 educated. In particular, the further component or the edge extends 7 in an outlet region and / or has a preferably integrally formed, here substantially cylindrical valve element 14 to selectively open and close an outlet opening, in particular depending on the discharge pressure.

The exhaust valve 10 is in the display example via a connection channel 15 with the pump room 8th connected.

When the pump room 8th with liquid 2 is filled, can, starting from the rest or initial position shown by deforming the section 6 the volume of the pump room 8th reduced and thereby liquid 2 from the pump room 8th displaced and over the exhaust valve 10 be issued.

Opening the exhaust valve 10 takes place in particular automatically, preferably due to the fluid pressure, and / or - possibly in addition - due to a corresponding deformation of the section 6 or the edge 7 and / or any other portion of the further component or other component.

The liquid 2 can with the exhaust valve open 10 via a subsequent output channel 16 and / or a nozzle 17 o. Like. Outflow and output.

In particular, the liquid 2 from the nozzle 17 when depressing or deforming the section 6 spent or sprayed or atomized. Alternatively or alternatively, the output of liquid 2 through the dispenser 1 also done in non-atomized state.

With a corresponding decrease in the fluid pressure in the pumping chamber 8th - in particular after termination of the depression of the section 6 - closes the exhaust valve 10 preferably again automatically, in particular due to corresponding restoring forces.

Due to the inherent elasticity or the restoring force of the section 6 takes place after releasing a preferably automatic reset in the in 1 shown starting position, with new liquid 2 over the inlet valve 9 in the pump room 8th taken, in particular, is sucked. Opening the inlet valve 9 during resetting is preferably due to the case in the pump room 8th automatically under the prevailing negative pressure.

When opening the intake valve 9 slides the biasing element 13 on the valve flap 11 from. Alternatively or additionally, the biasing element 13 deformed here, in particular arched.

The force with the inlet valve 9 closes, so the valve flap 11 the inlet opening 12 covers, as well as the opening and closing characteristics (course in the closing direction acting forces depending on the degree of opening) can be influenced by various measures and in particular set in a desired manner.

The valve flap 11 is preferably already by inherent elasticity in the closing direction against the inlet opening 12 biased. Decisive factors are in particular the thickness of the valve flap 11 , the properties of the material used and / or the geometric shape or the shape of the valve flap 11 in the unloaded, not installed state and in the closed state. For example, the thickness of the valve flap can also be 11 vary over its longitudinal extent or to its free end in order to achieve the desired properties. Further, for example, the inlet port 12 to the free of the valve flap 11 curved and / or different than the other unloaded extension of the valve flap 11 be inclined. For example, it can be achieved that the valve flap 11 towards its free end increasingly against the opening 12 is biased.

The valve flap 11 and the inlet opening 12 or the other contour of the contact surfaces and / or geometric surfaces can be selected according to a variant in particular such that the valve flap 11 without the biasing element 13 the inlet opening 11 does not close or not completely close, in particular only at one end, in particular in the region of its free end, covers or closes. Only then preferably at the other end with respect to the inlet opening 12 and / or closer to the attachment side of the valve flap 11 acting biasing element 13 then causes the valve flap 11 the inlet opening 12 completely covers and closes in the closed position. It then takes the closing force with which the valve flap 11 against the inlet opening 12 is biased, in particular to the free end of the valve flap 11 towards.

However, for example, configurations are also possible in which the biasing element 13 then especially in the area of the free end of the valve flap 11 at the valve flap 11 is present or acts on this.

Next, the bias of the valve flap 11 against the inlet opening 12 or the opening and closing behavior of the intake valve 9 also by the characteristic of the biasing element 13 be decisively influenced. The characteristic of the biasing element 13 is determined in particular by properties of the material used, thickness of the biasing element 13 , Length of the preload element 13 , Width of the preload element 13 , Setting angle or inclination of the biasing member 13 to the valve flap 11 or to the inlet opening 12 , the shape or shape of the biasing element 13 o. The like., These dimensions also over the length of the biasing member 13 can vary.

The explained, preferred construction of the intake valve 9 can basically also the exhaust valve 10 or other valves of the present dispenser 1 or in another dispensing device, in particular with the same or corresponding advantages realized.

When resetting the section 6 from the (not shown) depressed position in the initial position shown can be liquid 2 via a preferably provided, to the inlet valve 9 or the inlet opening 12 subsequent connecting piece 18 and in particular a subsequent, in the container three extending suction line 19 be absorbed or sucked. This then opens the inlet valve 9 or the valve flap 11 , After intake or suction of liquid 2 in the pump room 8th closes the inlet valve 9 or its valve flap 11 preferably automatically again.

According to an independently realizable aspect, the deformable section 6 preferably an operating section 20 on, in particular, in the middle of the section 6 is formed, which is the primary contact surface in the operation or deformation of the section 6 (In particular, for a hand or a finger of a user, not shown, or other operating part) forms, which is formed on its outside at least substantially flat or flat or concave and / or formed thickened. In particular, the wall of the section 6 in the area of the actuating section 20 inside - so the pump room 8th towards and / or to the middle of the operating section 20 enlarged. This can lead to better recovery properties and / or improved properties when emptying the pump chamber 8th - Especially to minimize the dead volume - lead.

According to another, if necessary, independent feasible aspect is in the pump room 8th preferably a bottom section 21 - in particular of the first component 4 - formed, the a shell-like bottom of the pump room 8th forms and / or the bead-like or annular recess of the pump chamber 8th surrounds and / or a rounded abutment edge - in particular in a ring or peripheral region adjacent to the edge 7 of the section 6 - for the section 6 in the depressed or deformed state in the pump chamber 8th forms. In particular, this is the dead volume in the pump room 8th with depressed section 6 minimized.

Particularly preferred is the shell-like formation or depression of the bottom of the pump chamber 8th with the thickening of the section 6 in the middle or in the operating area 20 combined, so that the section 6 or thickened area particularly well to the bottom shape with depressed section 6 can adjust, reducing the dead volume in the pump room 8th is minimized particularly efficiently.

The Dispensing device according to the invention with a cosmetic Fluid is not on the manual pumping device described above limited. In a further embodiment the dispenser may be a propellant or liquefied Propellant gas and / or have another pressure generation, wherein the cosmetic fluid under propellant pressure or other pressure is dispersible by a nozzle.

at In another embodiment, the dispenser Have a piston which can be tensioned, for example by spring force is and upon release of the spring shifts the piston and thereby pressurizing the cosmetic fluid and by a Nozzle discharges.

at another embodiment is the container itself deformable to produce a pressure, so that the cosmetic fluid can be dispensed from the nozzle under pressure.

• – mindestens 3,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines filmbildenden und/oder festigenden Polymeren, – 10,0 bis 80 Gew.-% eines protischen Lösemittels und – 20 bis 90 Gew.-% eines Treibmittels.

An embodiment of the delivery device according to the invention contains a cosmetic fluid for firming hair treatment, which is composed of:

• At least 3.0% by weight of at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, 10.0 to 80% by weight of a protic solvent and 20 to 90% by weight of a blowing agent.

The Film-forming and / or setting polymer is preferred in the composition in an amount of 3.0 to 40% by weight, more preferably of 3.0 to 30% by weight, most preferably in an amount from 3.0 to 20 weight percent. Of course may also be several film-forming and / or solid polymers be included in the preferred means. It can these film-forming and / or setting polymers are both permanent as well as temporarily cationic, anionic, nonionic or be amphoteric. Furthermore, the present cosmetic fluid comprises also the realization that when using at least two film-forming and / or setting polymers this course may have different charges. Preferably can it may be when an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film forming and / or fixing polymer is used together. Also the use at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or Firming polymers is preferred. In the latter case, a special embodiment again in addition at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or consolidating polymer.

There Polymers are often multifunctional, their Functions are not always clearly and clearly separated from each other become. In particular, this applies to film-making and festifying Polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers are to be exemplified to be discribed. However, it is explicitly referred to here that both film-forming and setting polymers essential are. Because both properties are not completely independent from one another are called "strengthening Polymers "always" film-forming polymers "understood and vice versa.

To the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers counts the film formation. Among film-forming polymers are such polymers to understand which while drying a continuous film on the Skin, hair or nails. such Filmbildner can in the most different cosmetic Products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, Hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes be used. Particularly preferred are those polymers which sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures possess to be completely dissolved in the agent Form prevail. The film-forming polymers can be synthetic or of natural origin.

Under film-forming polymers are also preferably such polymers when used in 0.01 to 20% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to deposit on the hair a transparent polymer film. The film-forming polymers can be both anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporary be cationically charged.

suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homo- or Copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers are: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such. B. vinyl acetate, Vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, Alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, Propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups are.

Suitable are z. B. homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are z. B. copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and Propionate. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and Polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.

substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair preferred because it dampens the tendency of the hair, so absorb water, reduce it. This is the flabby Drooping of the hair strands diminished and thus a long-lasting hairstyle structure and maintenance is guaranteed. As a test method for this is often the so-called cur1 retention test applied. These polymeric substances can Continue to be successful in leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos be incorporated. Since polymers are often multifunctional are, that means several application technology desired Show effects, numerous polymers are found in several the mode of action divided groups, so also in the CTFA manual. Because of the importance of just the strengthening polymers to this therefore be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI name. In this List of very particularly preferred to use polymers Of course, therefore, even the cationic polymers again.

Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamides / Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, All yl stearate / VA copolymer, aminoethyl acrylate phosphates / acrylates copolymer, aminoethyl propane di-acrylate / acrylamide copolymer, aminoethyl propane diol-AMPD acrylates / diacetone acrylamide copolymer, ammonium VA / acrylate copolymer, AMPD acrylates / diacetone acrylamide copolymer, AMPD acrylates / allyl methacrylate copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethyl Aryneaethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone & PEG-60 Copo Butyl Acrylate / Ethyihexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acryptate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Cement Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolarnine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethyl Maleimide / Hydroxyethyl Maleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MACopolymer, Isobutyl Methacrylate / Bis- HydroxyprOpyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA Sulfites, Methacryic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer , PEG / PPG-25/25 dimethicone / acrylate copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI copolymer, polyacrylamide, polyacrylate-6, polybeta-alanine / glutaric acid crosspolymer, polybutylene terephthalate, polyester-1, polycthylacrylate, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, polyurethanes-1, pblyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Caprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconc Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium. Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / IsophthaHc Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, I TrimethylsHoxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA / Grotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam PV / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactarm / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate.

All Particularly preferred are acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, Octylacrylamide / AcrylatesButylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Polyurethane-1, polyvinylcaprolactam and VP / VA copolymer.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and those polymers comprising those -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

One Example of a preferably usable amphopolymer is the acrylic resin available under the name Amphomer, a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple ester.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (G3-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (G3-I)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (G3-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (G3-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. Regarding the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly based on the content of German Offenle the letter 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

After all the preferred composition may in particular be based on the firming, purposeful and antistatic effects are specifically influenced, when anionic polymers are formulated with. At the anionic Polymers include anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective as the sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid contain, wherein the sulfonic acid group completely or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.

• – Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Resyn^® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset^® (BASF) und Gafset^® (GAF) im Handel sind.
• – Vinylpyrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, erhältlich beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviflex^® (BASF). Ein bevorzugtes Polymer ist das unter der Bezeichnung Luviflex ^®VBM-35 (BASF) erhältliche Vinylpyrrolidon/Acrylat-Terpolymere.
• – Acrylsäure/Ethytacrylat/N-tert. Butylacrylamid-Terpolymere, die beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Ultrahold^® strong (BASF) vertrieben werden.

Further preferably suitable anionic polymers include:

• - Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, such as those under the names Resyn ^® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset ^® (BASF) and Gafset ^® (GAF) are commercially available.
• - vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ^® (BASF). A preferred polymer is the VBM-35 (BASF) under the name Luviflex ^® available vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
• Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert. Butylacrylamide terpolymers, which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ^® strong (BASF).

A Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (V1) having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and one di- or polyisocyanate (V2).

at the compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, Diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols act. there become the compounds with more than 2 active hydrogen atoms usually only in small amounts in combination with a large excess used on compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms.

Examples for compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1,2- and 1,3-propylene glycol, Butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and propylene glycols, Copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diamino-butane, Hexamethylenediamine and alpha, omega-diamines based on long-chain Alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.

polyurethanes, in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols, may be preferred. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have become individual cases proved to be particularly suitable.

polyesterols are usually by modification of the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.

When Compounds (V2) are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylenedi (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate.

Farther For example, the polyurethanes which are preferably used can still be building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids contain. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. Regarding The other components are not fundamentally limited whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic Blocks acts.

For further information on the construction and production of polyurethanes is expressly on the articles in the relevant reviews such as Rompps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Encyclopedia of technical chemistry.

• – ausschliesslich aliphatische Gruppen im Molekül
• – keine freien Isocyanatgruppen im Molekül -Polyether- und Polyesterpolyurethane
• – anionische Gruppen im Molekül.

As in many cases, preferably particularly suitable polyurethanes have proven, which can be characterized as follows:

• - Exclusively aliphatic groups in the molecule
• - no free isocyanate groups in the molecule - polyether and polyester polyurethanes
• - anionic groups in the molecule.

It has also proved to be advantageous in some cases, if the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system, but instead is stably dispersed.

Farther It has proven to be for the preparation of the preferred means. proved to be advantageous if the polyurethanes are not directly with mixed with the other components, but in the form of aqueous Dispersions were introduced. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, especially about 35-45% and are also commercially available.

A preferably most preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

The preferred agents may be used in another embodiment contain non-ionic polymers.

• – VinylpyrrolidonNinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200C° liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone gemäss der EP 0612759 B1 .

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - VinylpyrrolidonNinylester copolymers, such as for example, under the trade name Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to the EP 0612759 B1 ,

It is preferably also possible that the preparations used several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or one ionic and one amphoteric and / or not contain ionic polymer.

Further preferred polymers are all polymers which are used in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) as polymers in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers" or "hair fixatives" called and are commercially available. Reference is made expressly to this document and the sections cited therefrom.

The preferred agent is preferably in an aqueous, a alcoholic or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium preferably made up with at least 10 percent by weight of water. As alcohols, especially those for cosmetic Purpose commonly used lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol be included.

The preferred agent may be in a pH range of 2 to 11. Particularly preferred is the pH range between 2 and 8.

When additional co-solvents can be organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent preferred be contained from 1 to 10 weight percent. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched Hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons like cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble Solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount up to 30% by weight.

The third component of the preparations is the propellant.

to Application of the preferred compositions as aerosol sprays can Propellants are used. The preferred according to the invention Propellant gases are selected from the hydrocarbons of 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons and mixtures of these substances. Very particularly preferred propellants are propane, butane, isobutane, Pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether and the mixtures of these vorganannten Propellants each with each other. Most preferred propellants are the Mixtures of dimethyl ether with hydrocarbons, within the Group of hydrocarbons as propellant gases are preferred n-butane and propane.

advantageously, the propellant is selected to be simultaneously as a solvent for other ingredients such as For example, oil and wax components, the fatty substances (D) can serve. The propellant can then be used as a solvent serve for these latter components, if these at 20 C to at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the blowing agent, are soluble in this.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preferred Preparations, the said hydrocarbons or mixtures of mentioned hydrocarbons with dimethyl ether as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the co-use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, in particular but the fluorocarbons.

The Propellant gases are in amounts of 5-98 wt .-%, preferably 10-98 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 20-98 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 40 to 98 wt .-%, each based on the total Aerosol composition, included.

The preferred compositions can be made commercially available Be packed aerosol cans. The cans can be made of tinplate or aluminum. Furthermore, the cans can be inside be coated to minimize the risk of corrosion to keep.

If the preferred compositions as a non-aerosol spray application is applied, of course, no propellant gas is included. However, the spray heads are in any case after to select the appropriate spray rate.

The Cans are equipped with a suitable spray head. Depending on the spray head are ejection rates, based on full filled cans, from 0.1 g / s to 5.0 g / s possible. The spray rate is determined so that one with propellant gas and the corresponding composition filled and with closed aerosol can at room temperature (about 23 ° C) is weighed first. The can will shaken vigorously by hand 10 times, so that the content mixes well. Then, for 10 s operated the valve of the vertical box. After that is weighed again. The process is carried out 5 times in a row and the statistical mean of the results. The difference of the two weighings is the spray rate per 10 s. From this can be by simply dividing the spray rate determine per second. In the case of non-aerosol, the spray mechanism operated accordingly 10 times. Under the spray rate in the latter case, the average amount applied per puff (pump surge) to understand. spray rates from 0.1 to 0.5 g / s are preferred. Spraying data of 0.1 to 0.4 g / s are particularly preferred.

One another characteristic influence on efficiency and formulability as a compact spray is the spray pattern. The spray pattern is through the valve and its nature decisively influenced. For example, in a hair spray formulation the film-maker up to five times opposite a conventional recipe is increased, so are next the observed and avoidable increased viscosities of Recipe also the previously discussed spray rate essential features to be considered for the formulation.

additionally However, especially the spray pattern, that is the opening cone of the valve, and the droplet size get noticed.

If the opening cone has too large an opening angle, then the product is applied at a usual distance of the spray can from the user's head of about 10 to 40 cm on a too small hair surface. This leads to a change in the effectiveness of the composition. There occur either sticking due to excessive amounts of product or too low a strengthening effect by a too small amount of applied product. In the latter case, the opening cone is too large, so that a too large hair surface is treated with the composition. It has now been shown that the opening cone must ideally be between 25 ° and 65 °. An angle of 30 ° to 60 ° is preferred. All Particularly preferred are opening cone between 35 ° and 50 °.

Of the Influence of droplet size is as follows: In To large droplets is the distribution of the recipe the hair is not even so that in many places too high quantities of product occur. In other places in contrast occur too small amounts of product. In numerous attempts has it has now been shown that the mean droplet size ideally should be less than 50 microns. Droplet size Small as 45 microns are preferred. Very particularly preferred are droplet sizes smaller than 40 microns.

The Droplet size is measured with a laser diffraction meter Type Masterizer, Series 2600 Droplet and Particle Size Analyzer determined by the company Malvern. For this purpose, the sample is in a defined Distance sprayed by the light beam of the laser and based the laser diffraction determines the particle size distribution.

The Viscosity of the sprayed recipe can also one depending on the concentration of the film-forming polymers Show influence. At the same time, however, valves are also known, with the help of which even gels can be sprayed. It however, may be preferred if the viscosities of the formulations less than 5000 mPas measured according to Brookfield with spindle 3 at 20 rpm and 25 ° C. The viscosities of Formulations are measured before the addition of propellant gas. Especially it may be preferred if the viscosities are less than 2500 mPas and most preferably less than 1000 mpas. Finally, the problem of sticking the valves in addition for the targeted selection of the film-forming polymers also by a appropriate careful processing, material selection, and / or pretreatment of the valves are positively influenced. Essential is there that all in contact with the composition coming parts of the valve as smooth as possible surface exhibit. The smoother the surface, the less The composition may adhere to it by adhesion. Thus, a bonding of the nozzle is counteracted. The Achieving particularly smooth surfaces are those skilled in the art known, for example by an execution of the surface in the form of nanoparticles for achieving a lotus blossom effect or a polishing of the surfaces such as an electropolishing.

at The application of the preferred composition is intended to hair to be shaped in a particular hairstyle. This may require it be to positively influence the hair structure and hair condition. For example It may be advantageous if the Kämmwiderstände are low during the construction of the hairstyle. Farther should the hairstyle formed a certain shine or shimmering colored Show effects. The hair should be vital when it is cold Create an impression. For this it is necessary nourishing substances to incorporate into the preferred composition.

suitable Compounds as hair care compounds are discussed below described in more detail.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöl. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.

To the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4), which. can increase the effect of the preferred composition are, for example, to count:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the preferred Means is usually 0.1-50 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

amounts from 0.1-30% by weight are preferred.

Farther in a preferred embodiment, the use of UV filters (I) further advantages in terms of structure of the hair and thus advantages in terms of combing, give the gloss or volume. The hair is using the UV filter protected from the effects of UV light. The preferably to be used UV filters are subject to their structure and their physical properties are not general Restrictions. Rather, all are suitable in the cosmetics sector usable UV filter whose absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The For example, preferably used UV filters are selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of preferably usable UV filters are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neoheliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neoheliopan ^® Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and salts thereof, (Methoxydibenzoylmethane butyl; Parsol 1789, Eusolex ^® 9020) 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007 ); Salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® 018), 4- \ methoxycinnamate isdpentylester (Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan E 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonsure and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4 Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S5 ^®), 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methyl-benzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex 6300) 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino (p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1'3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoboronyl] 3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-Aminobenzoesäurementh ylester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 22-dihydroxy 4,4-dimethoxybenzo-phenone-5-sodium-sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 33,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2 Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2, 2.1] hept- 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-) 2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-o xoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3 (4- methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, LCampher.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found to be structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble Compound the higher effect over such has water-soluble compounds that differ from her by one or more additional ionic groups. As water-insoluble are preferably such UV filters to be understood, which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, dissolve in water Furthermore, these compounds should be used in usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least I wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filter can therefore be preferred according to the invention be.

According to In another embodiment, such UV filters are preferred, the one cationic, group, especially one quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

Of the Structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing radiation Group. This group can in principle be distinguished from the known, in the Cosmetic area usable, derived above UV filters, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary Amino function, is replaced.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester, -Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und -o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• Cinnamic acid ester, salicylic acid ester,
• - benzimidazoles and -o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are derived, are particularly preferred.

The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filters in both the UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range can lie. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above from 20000, lies.

Of the Structural part Q preferably contains as a cationic group a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the positive represents charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom form a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, the as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent C 14- Alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological Compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, Tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are those as commercial products Cinnamic acid amidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available (Incroquat, UV-283) and dodecyl-dimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammonium tosylate (Escalol HP 610).

Of course The preferred teaching also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter having a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are common in the preferred agents in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.

The Effect of the preferred combination may further by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and whose derivatives (J) are increased. Another aspect is therefore the use of the active substance in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preferably, the sodium, Potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the Ammoniumion next to hydrogen one to three C1 to C4 alkyl groups wearing. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the preferred compositions are from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Also it has proved to be beneficial vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) to the preferred compositions. It may be preferred only those vitamins, provitamins and To select vitamin precursors and their derivatives that only soluble in alcohol and / or in alcohol-water mixtures are.

there such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. become.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations preferably used contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Besonders bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den verwendetenen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Vorzugsweise einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Particularly preferred is the nicotinic acid amide, which is contained in the agents used preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Preferably usable derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents used in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the preferably Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the gluco side or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its Derivatives, including in particular the esters, such as acetate, nicotinate, the phosphate and succinate are in the preferably used Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the preferably used Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers The funds used contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

After all The effect can also be achieved through combined use increase with plant extracts (L).

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

Regarding the preferably usable plant extracts in particular on the extracts mentioned in page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidance on the Ingredient Declaration of Cosmetic Products vom Indu strieverband Personal Care and Detergent e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are listed.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, valerian, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, Fich Tennadel, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Satan, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hominy, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, valerian, chamomile, burdock root, Horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Homeselps, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

All especially suitable for the preferred use are the Extracts of green tea, valerian, almond, aloe vera, coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts may preferably be in both pure and can also be used in diluted form. Unless they are in diluted form used, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction

Farther it may be preferred in the preferred compositions of mixtures several, especially from two, different plant extracts use.

additionally It may prove advantageous if, in addition to the preferred Combination of penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are. These excipients provide better penetration of Active ingredients in the keratinic fiber or help the keratinic Swell fiber. These include, for example, to count Urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, Propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, Hydrogencarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Of the Consumers like in the perception of the preparations, in particular caused by an asthetic packaging, if necessary in connection with aromatic notes, the inventive To associate composition with a stimulant. By this association may be oral, especially in children or a swallowing of the composition in principle not be completely excluded. In a preferred embodiment Therefore, the preferred compositions contain a scrim, to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. In this case, scrims are preferred which in water at 20 C to at least 5 g / l are soluble.

Regarding an undesirable interaction with optionally in the preferred composition contained fragrance components, in particular a change in the scent perceived by the consumer, the ionic lattices are superior to the nonionic ones proved. Ionogenic scrims, preferably consisting of organic (s) Cation (s) and organic anion (s) are therefore for the preparations are preferred.

Excellent as scribing agents are quaternary ammonium compounds containing an aromatic group in both the cation and the anion. Eg such a connection is the commercially z. B. under the trade name Bitrex ^® and Indige-stin ^® available Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

Of the Scrim in the preferred compositions is in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molded article. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.

• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephalin, sowie Silikonöle,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine, -Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z. B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N20, Dimethylether, CO2 und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and kepha lin, as well as silicone oils,
• Perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins, solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• - Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Consistency regulator, such as polyol ester or polyol alkyl ether,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
• - antioxidants.

In terms of additional optional components and the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art known relevant manuals, z. B. the above monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

This Cosmetic fluid is for sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. The pH of these preparations can in principle Values of 2-11 lie. It is preferably between 3 and 10, with values of 5 to 8 being particularly preferred. To adjustment This pH can be virtually any for cosmetic purposes usable acid or base can be used.

Usually are used as acids edible acids. Under Edible acids are understood as meaning such acids, taken as part of the usual food intake and positive effects on the human organism to have. Exotic acids are, for example, acetic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, Malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred. Preferred bases are Ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, Triisopropanolamine, and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. With these bases are also the firming and / or fixing Polymers neutralized or partially neutralized, if necessary is.

A very particularly preferred application form according to the invention is an aerosol and / or non-aerosol spray application in combination with the above-described dispenser.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. 1. Compact hair spray for normal consolidation LuviskolVA 37 1.0 Ultrahold 8 11.0 AMP (amino methyl propanol) 0.95 panthenol 0.3 Uvinul MS 40 0.3 ethanol 40.0 Water ad 60.0 dimethyl ether 40.0 2. Compact hair spray for normal consolidation Ultrahold 8 6.0 Amphomer LV-71 4.0 AMP 1.3 pantolactone 0.3 Uvinul MS 40 0.3 ethanol 40.0 Water ad 60.0 dimethyl ether 40.0 3. Compact hair spray for easy consolidation Ultrahold 8 5.0 AMP Dow Corning Fluid 345 0.05 isopropanol ad 40.0 Propane / butane 60.04. 4. Compact hair spray for strong consolidation (wet look) Gantrez ES-425 10.0 Eumulgin 05 0.5 triisopropanolamine 1.0 Dow Corning 200 (0.65 cSt) 0.3 Surfadone LP 300 0.4 water 7.5 ethanol ad 60.0 Propane / butane (60/40) 40.0

at a further embodiment of the invention of the cosmetic fluid in combination with the dispenser The cosmetic fluid is a hair treatment with improved Film and odor properties.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that a hair treatment composition comprising at least one polymer having acidic and / or amphoteric groups in an alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous medium and at least one polyhydroxyalkylamine of the formula NR ₁ R ₂ R ₃ , where R ₁ = Mono-, di- or trihydroxyalkyl radical having a carbon chain C2-C6, R ₂ , R ₃ = H, alkyl radical having a carbon chain C ₁ -C ₁₈ or mono-, di- or trihydroxyalkyl radical having a carbon chain C ₂ -C ₆ , or their Salts, in combination with the dispenser solves the task.

Advantageous the preferred agent contains from 0.01 to 5% by weight of polyhydroxyalkylamine, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the preparation.

When preferred polyhydroxyalkylamine is 1-amino-2,3-propanediol and / or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol (serinol). Likewise the salts of polyhydroxyalkylamines, in particular the lactates, as particularly preferred. Other hydroxyalkylamines, which are among the preferred class of compounds good film-forming properties and improved odor properties in the cosmetic means allows.

Of the The film forming through the medium becomes highly elastic, the hair have a natural, lasting bounce without interference the good consolidation of the hair in high humidity and without stickiness of the movie. The film shows good sensor technology and compared to Conventional neutralizing agents become odoriferous Characteristics of the formulation improved.

The polymers with acidic or amphoteric groups can be partially or completely neutralized with the polyhydroxyalkylamine in the hair treatment agent according to the invention. Preferred are sol in which in the polymer, the acidic groups are neutralized to 20 to 100%, particularly preferably 50 to 100% with the amine of the neutralizing agent.

The Polymer with acid groups can be a natural or a synthetic homo- or copolymer with acid groups containing monomer units, optionally with comonomers, which contain no acid groups, is copolymerized. As acid groups are sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid and Carboxylic groups into consideration, of which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred. Suitable acid group-containing monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride, Aldehydocarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids.

Not For example, comonomers substituted with acid groups are Acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and Dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomers such as dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, Dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, where the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, particularly preferred are C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

suitable Polymers with acid groups are especially uncrosslinked or homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with polyfunctional agents or methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from Acrylic acid or methacrylic esters, acrylamides, Methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid and copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, Acrylamides and methacrylamides. A suitable natural Polymer is shellac, for example.

Other polymers are: crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers (INCI VA / Crotonates Copolymer) z. B. Resyn ^® 28-1310 from National Starch or Luviset.RTM ^® CA66 by BASF; Terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonate and vinyl alkanoate, especially vinyl acetate / crotonate / vinyl dioecanoate copolymers (INCI: VA / Crotonates / Vinyineodecanoate copolymer) z. B. Resyn ^® 28-2930 from National Starch; Partially esterified copolymers between vinyl methyl ether and maleic anhydride (INCI: ethyl, isopropyl, butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer) z. B. Gantrez ^® ES 225 or Gantrez ^® ES 425 by the company ISP; Copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with alkyl acrylates and / or N-alkylacrylamides, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates and terpolymers of acrylic acid, alkyl acrylates and N-alkylacrylamides such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer (INCI: acrylates / acrylamide copolymer) z. B. Ultrahold ^® 8 from BASF or tert-butyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid terpolymer (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer), z. B. Luvimer ^® from BASF; Polystyrenesulfonates (INCI: Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate) z. B. Flexan ^® 130 by National Starch.

Suitable anionic polymers are also water-soluble or dispersible anionic polyurethanes, e.g. B. Luviset ^® PUR BASF or polyester.

suitable amphoteric polymers are octylacrylamides / acrylates / butylaminoethyl Methacrylate copolymer (Amphomer 28-4910, National Starch) or Methacryloyl ethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymer (Diaformer; Mitsubishi). Also suitable are copolymers of carboxyl groups or Sulfonic acid-containing monomers, e.g. B. (meth) acrylic acid and itaconic acid with basic, especially amino groups containing monomers such. As mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylates and / or mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylamides, copolymers from N-octylacrylamide, methyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid. Preferred polymers include Therefore, especially polymers with carboxy, sulfonic acid, Phosphoric acid, acid amide, anhydride and / or anionic polyurethane functionality.

Preferably include the aforementioned polymers to the polymers acidic and / or amphoteric groups, the amphoteric polymers from anioic and cationic functionality are built in the same molecule.

Preferably the polymers are film-forming and hair-setting Polymers. Under film-forming, hair-setting polymers are intended those polymers are understood which alone in 0.01 to 20% iger, preferably in 0.1 to 10%, more preferably in 1.0 to 5.0% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic Solution applied, able to one on the hair To deposit polymer film and in this way to strengthen the hair.

additionally For example, the preferred cosmetic fluid may be 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, at least one synthetic or natural, film-forming, non-ionic or cationic hair-setting Contain polymers. The hair-setting polymers can used singly or in a mixture. Furthermore, you can Polymers with thickening effect can be used.

suitable synthetic, nonionic, film-forming, hair-setting polymers For example, homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, for example, are under the trade names LUVISKOL ™ K from BASF, Germany or PVP-K are sold by the company ISP, USA, and homopolymers of N-vinylformamide, for example, under the trade name PVF sold by the company National Starch / USA become. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, nonionic Hair-fixing polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, for example, under the trade names LUVISKOL ™ VA sold by the company BASF / Germany; Terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, for example, under the trade name LUVISKOL TM VAP the company BASF / Germany are sold; polyvinyl caprolactam, Polyvinylamides and their salts and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, terpolymers of vinylcaprolactam, Vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminomethacrylate; Polyacrylamides, the for example, under the trade names AKYPOMINE ™ P 191 from the company CHEM-Y / Germany or SEPI ™ 305 from the company SEPPIC / USA; Polyvinyl alcohols, for example under the trade names ELVANOL ™ from Du Pont or VINOL TM 523/540 from Air Products / USA, as well as high molecular weight polyethylene glycol or high molecular weight copolymers of ethylene glycol with propylene glycol with firming properties, For example, under the trade names LIPDXOL TM 1000 of the company HÜLS AG / Germany, PLURACOLE 4000 from the company BASF / Germany or UPIWAX ™ 20,000 sold by UPI become; Polysiloxanes and the like.

suitable cationic polymers are z. B. copolymers of amine-substituted Vinyl monomers and non-substituted, non-cationic monomers. Amine-substituted vinyl monomers are, for. For example, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, Dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as As C1-C7-alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3-alkyl groups are.

suitable ammonium substituted vinyl monomers are e.g. Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary Vinylammonium monomers containing cyclic, cationic nitrogens Groups such as pyridinium or iniidazolium, z. B. Alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylimidazolium salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as. C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3-alkyl groups. Suitable polymers are below the names Polyquaternium described as quaternized polymers Copolymers of vinylimidazole, vinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylcaprolactam (Polyquaternium-16, -44 or -46), quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11), homo- and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-6, -7 or -22), quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (Polyquaternium-10) or quaternized guar derivatives.

Not amine-substituted noncationic comonomers are e.g. Acrylamide, Methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, Acrylic acrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, Vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as. As C1-C7-alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3-alkyl groups are. Further cationic polymers are: quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate Copolymers, in particular quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethyl acrylate copolymer (INCI: Polyquaternium-11), e.g. Gafquat 755 from ISP or Luviquat PQ11 from BASF; Methylvinylimidazoliumchloric / vinylpyrrolidone. copolymer (INCI: Polyquaternium-16), e.g. B. the Luviquat types FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 or HM552 from BASF; Methylvinylimidazoliummethyl sulfate / vinylpyrrolidone Copolymer (INCI: Polyqua ternium-44), z. Luviquat Care or Luviquat MS 370 from BASF; or the copolymer of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized vinylimidazole (INCI Polyquaternium-46), e.g. B. Luviquat Hold by BASF.

Suitable natural film-forming polymers having a hair-setting action are, for example, various types of saccharides, for example polysaccharides or mixtures of oligo-, mono- and disaccharides, which are sold, for example, under the trade name C-PUR ™ by Cerestar, Belgium. Other suitable natural polymers are Chinese gum rosin and cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which, for example, is sold under the trade name NISSO SL TM by the company Lehmann & Voss / Germany.

The preferred agent is in an aqueous, alcoholic or in an aqueous-alcoholic environment. Furthermore, solvents or a mixture from solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of from 0.1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight be used. As alcohols, in particular the commonly used for cosmetic purposes lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as Be contained ethanol and isopropanol. Further, more preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol and Propylene glycol in an amount up to 30 wt .-%.

The In addition, the preferred means for Hair treatment products contain usual additives, for example wetting agents or emulsifiers from the classes of anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, such as fatty alcohol sulfates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, Alkyl betaines, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, Fatty acid alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight; Humectants; perfume oils in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; Opacifiers, such as ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 0.2 to 5.0% by weight; Pearlescing agents, such as a mixture fatty acid monoalkylolamide and ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 1.0 to 10% by weight; bactericidal and fungicidal Active ingredients such as 2,4,4-trichloro-2-hydroxydiphenyl ether or methylchloroisothiazolione, in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight; Thickeners, such as coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, in one Amount of about 0.2 to 3.0 wt .-%, buffer substances, such as Sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 Wt .-%; Solubilizers, such as ethoxylated Castor oil, in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0% by weight; Staining agents, such as fluorescein sodium salt, in one Amount of about 0.1 to 1.0% by weight; Care substances, such as plant and herbal extracts, protein and silk hydrolysates, cationic resins, Lanolin derivatives, in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight; physiological compatible silicone derivatives, such as silicone oil, Silicone polymers and siloxanes; Sunscreens, antioxidants, Radical scavengers, anti-dandruff agents, in an amount of about 0.01 to 2% by weight; direct hair dyes, hair dyes, which are developed oxidatively, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, Fatty alcohols, brighteners, vitamins, plasticizers, combability improvers, Refatting agents, foam stabilizers and defoamers.

at The cosmetic fluid is preferred to contain care substances are.

The advantageous care substances are cationic. Surfactants such as monomers quaternary ammonium compounds or silicone polymers. All Particularly advantageous are the cationic substances cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium phosphate. Suitable silicone polymers are z. B. polydimethylsiloxane, a-hydro- (o-hydroxypolyoxy-dimethyl-silylene, cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylsiloxane-glycol copolymer or dimethylsioxanaminoalkylsiloxane copolymer having hydroxy end groups.

The Preferred agents can be used in various forms of administration as in aerosol preparations as foam or as a spray, further as a non-aerosol, which by means of the dispenser is used according to the invention. The use in usual O / W and W / O emulsions is also possible as in application forms as a gel, wax or microemulsion

If the preferred agent in the form of an aerosol hair spray or aerosol hair lacquer is present, it also contains 3 to 85 wt .-% a propellant and is filled in a pressure vessel. As propellants, for example, lower alkanes, such as n-butane, i-butane and propane or mixtures thereof or dimethyl ether and fluorohydrocarbons such as F 152 (1,1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane) and further in the relevant Press gaseous propellants, such as N2, N20 and. C02 or compressed air and mixtures of the above called propellant suitable.

The preferred means may also take the form of an appropriate sprayed mechanically operated spray device Non-aerosol hairsprays or a non-aerosol hair lacquer. Among mechanical spray devices are such devices to understand what the spraying of a liquid without using a propellant. As appropriate mechanical spraying device may for example be a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, in which the cosmetic product is bottled under pressure, wherein the elastic container expands and out of the Means due to the contraction of the elastic container continuously discharged when the spray valve is opened will be used.

Of Further, the preparation may further cosmetic substances further advantageous, although not mandatory, containing fillers, which z. B. the sensory and cosmetic properties of Further improve formulations.

Further it is advantageous if in the preferred preparations thickener be used. These can be advantageous, for example be chosen from the group of gums.

To the gums include plant or tree juices, which harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can be beneficial be selected for the purposes of the present invention, for example Gum Arabic Arabic, Carob Flour, Tragacanth, Karaya, Guar Gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algins, alginates, Chondrus, xanthan gum.

Farther advantageous is the use of derivatized gums such. As hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar HP 8).

Under the polysaccharides and derivatives are z. Hyaluronic acid, Chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives as according to the invention advantageous thickener.

Under the cellulose derivatives are z. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose as according to the invention advantageous thickeners.

Under the phyllosilicates are naturally occurring and synthetic clays such. B. montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, Laponite, aluminum silicates, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum. These can be used as such or in modified form as Thickener can be used such. Stearylalkonium hectorites.

Farther may advantageously also silica gel used become.

Under the homopolymers of acrylic acid (molecular weight: 2,000,000 to 6000000) are z. B. Carbopol types of Goodrich (Carbopol 940, 980, 981, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2050 or Ultrez 10).

Moreover suitable are copolymers of acrylic acid or of methacrylic acid such as Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 1342, 1382, ETD 2020, Ultrez 21, Permulen TR-1 or Pemulen TR-2.

polymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide (sodium salt) having a molecular weight from 2000000 to 6000000 such. B. Hostacerin PN 73 or under the name Amigel distributed Sclerotium gum.

Under the polymers are z. Polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), Polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols and ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

The following Examples prove the synergy effect of the preferred preparations in comparison to the individual components.

The quantities in the examples are wt .-%. Examples 1-6 Mousse component 1 2 three 4 5 6 Acrylates copolymer 2.0 2.0 2.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 Neutralizing agent / pH adjustment serinol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.6 0.3 0.3 Polyquaternium-4 - - 0.5 0.5 0.5 PVP / VA copolymer - - - - 2.0 - Hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium phosphates 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Perfume, solubilizers, conditioners qs qs qs qs qs qs ethanol 10.0 - 10.0 10.0 - 10.0 propellant 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 - Water, VES (desalted) ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 Examples 7-8 Hairspray, Examples 9-10 gels component 7 8th 9 10 Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer 2.5 2.5 - - Carbomer - - 0.7 1.0 Serinol / pH adjustment 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.9 PVP / VA copolymer - - 7.0 7.0 Perfume, solubilizers, conditioners qs qs qs qs ethanol 39.0 39.0 10.0 - Blowing agent (dimethyl ether) 50.0 - - - Water, VES (desalted) ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0

A another embodiment of the invention the delivery device with a cosmetic fluid has a stable, three-phase, sprayable hair treatment composition comprising three immiscible liquid phases, the from an aqueous phase, an oil phase and a Phase containing a trifunctional ester, on.

• – die Einheit a) für Alkohole und Carbonsäuren mit Kettenlängen von 2 bis 10 C-Atomen steht und
• – die Einheit b) für Verbindungen der Formel (I) steht
  
  in der die Reste R unabhängig voneinander die Gruppen -OH oder -COOH und R', R'' unabhängig voneinander die Gruppen -H, -OH oder -C1-C4-Alkyl bedeuten können.

Preferred are esters which are composed of the two units a) and b), wherein

• - The unit a) for alcohols and carboxylic acids having chain lengths of 2 to 10 carbon atoms and is
• - The unit b) for compounds of formula (I)
  
  in which the radicals R are independently of one another the groups -OH or -COOH and R ', R "independently of one another can denote the groups -H, -OH or-C1-C4-alkyl.

By trifunctional esters are preferably to be understood those esters in which all three radicals R of the formula (I) were esterified with alcohols and / or carboxylic acids having chain lengths of 2 to 10 carbon atoms the.

preferred Compounds of the formula (I) are those in which the radicals R are are hydroxy, especially preferred is glycerol.

preferred Esters are esters made up of glycerol and carboxylic acids composed of 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

One most preferred ester is glycerol triacetate.

Farther Preferred compounds of the formula (I) are those in which the Radicals R are -COOH groups, especially preferred is citric acid.

preferred Esters are also those made up of citric acid and Compose alcohols with 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

One furthermore very particularly preferred ester is triethyl citrate.

Prefers is an ester content of 2 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent, in particular 10 to 50 wt .-%.

The second compelling component is the oil component that is at the hair treatment for the production of shine on the Hair is responsible.

The oil component can in principle be made of both vegetable and mineral or synthetic oils, as well as mixtures of these components, be selected.

When Natural (vegetable) oils are commonly used Triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides used. preferred natural oils in the context of the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, Avocado oil, tea tree oil (Tea TreeOil), soybean oil, Sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, Rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, Meadowfoam, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, Grapeseed oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, Wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, Hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, Jojoba oil and shea butter.

Particularly preferred are (sweet) almond oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, macadamia nut oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil and jojoba oil. As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. According to the invention a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

Especially preferred mineral oils are paraffin oils.

When Synthetic oils come silicone compounds, in particular Dialkyl and alkylaryl silicones, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their hydroxy-terminated, alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such Silicones are those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200, DC 344 and DC 345 (cyclomethicone).

Especially preferred silicone compounds are linear and cyclic, non-alkoxylated Dialkylsiloxanes and alkylarylsiloxanes.

To the preferably usable oils continue to count Dialkyl.

Prefers usable dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total between 12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether.

The oil component can in principle be made of both vegetable and mineral or synthetic oils, as well as mixtures of these components, be selected.

When Natural (vegetable) oils are commonly used Triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides used. preferred natural oils in the context of the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, Avocado oil, tea tree oil (Tea TreeOil), soybean oil, Sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, Rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, Meadowfoam, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, Grapeseed oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, Wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, Hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, Jojoba oil and shea butter.

Especially preferred are (sweet) almond oil, avocado oil, Soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel oil, Mango seed oil, macadamia nut oil, apricot kernel oil, Olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, Mallow oil, hazelnut oil and jojoba oil.

When mineral oils are especially mineral oils, Paraffin and isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons for use. A hydrocarbon which can be used according to the invention For example, the commercially available 1,3-di (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol XS).

Especially preferred mineral oils are paraffin oils.

When Synthetic oils come silicone compounds, in particular Dialkyl and alkylaryl silicones, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their hydroxy-terminated, alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such Silicones are those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200, DC 344 and DC 345 (cyclomethicone).

Especially preferred silicone compounds are linear and cyclic, non-alkoxylated Dialkylsiloxanes and alkylarylsiloxanes.

To the preferred usable oils continue to count Dialkyl.

Preferably usable dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total between 12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether.

Especially preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, commercially under the name Ceitiol OE is available.

Although usually at room temperature, d. H. at 25 C, liquid oils However, the invention also includes the use mixtures of liquid and solid oil components, if these mixtures are liquid at room temperature.

In Another preferred embodiment comprises the oil phase instead of the oil component liquid, halogenated Hydrocarbons as the third phase.

These can be selected from commercial ones chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons. Especially suitable for the purposes of the invention are ethyl perfluorobutyl ether and / or Perfluorodecahydronaphthalene.

The oil component or the mixture of the oil components or the liquid ones halogenated hydrocarbons are in the preferred agents preferably in amounts of from 2 to 98% by weight, in particular in amounts from 5 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, contain.

Especially preferred amounts of oil component (s) are in the range of 10 to 40 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase preferably comprises a proportion in the range of 2 to 98 wt .-%, in particular 10 to 50 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent.

The Whole system may also contain alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol. The alcohol content preferably comprises 0-30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Means further comprising at least one water-soluble film former, which is usually a polymer.

preferred water-soluble polymers may be nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or anionic nature.

• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® von der Firma BASF vertrieben werden, beispielsweise Luviskol^® K 30,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® von der Firma BASF vertrieben werden. Luviskol VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73 vertrieben werden,
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxytehylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warennamen-Cumlina^® und Benecel^® von der Firma Aqualon vertrieben werden.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example, the following compounds:

• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as are marketed under the name Luviskol ^® by BASF, for example, Luviskol ^® K 30,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® by BASF. Luviskol VA 64 and Luviskol ^® sold VA 73,
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, and methyl Hydroxytehylcellulose as they are marketed under the trade name-Cumlina ^® and Benecel ^® by the company Aqualon.

Particularly suitable water-soluble, non-ionic polymers in the sense of the invention are those sold under the trade name Luviskol ^® K 30, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 products.

Preferably, suitable amphoteric polymers are for example those sold under the names Amphomer ^® and Amphomer ^® LV-71 from the company Delft National octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers.

• – Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Resyn^® von der Firma National Starch, Luviset^® von der Firma BASF und Gafset^® von der Firma GAF im Handel sind,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, erhältlich beispielsweise unterdem Warenzeichen Luviflex der Firma BASF. Ein bevorzugtes Beispiel für diese Produkte ist das unter dem Warenzeichen Luviflex^®VBM-35 erhältliche Vinylpyrrolidon/Acrylat-Terpolymere,
• – Acrylsäure/Ethylacrylat/N-tert.-Butylarcylamid-Terpolymere, die beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Ultrahold^® strong von der Firma BASF vertrieben werden.

Preferably suitable anionic polymers include

• - vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, as are, for example, under the names Resyn ^® by National Starch, Luviset.RTM ^® from BASF and Gafset ^® from GAF commercially,
• Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, available, for example, under the trademark Luviflex from BASF. A preferred example of these products is the ^® under the trade name Luviflex VBM-35 available vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers,
• - Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylarcylamide terpolymers, which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ^® strong from BASF.

The Water soluble film formers may be in the preferred In amounts of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the funds used.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Funds continue to be oil- and water-soluble hair care products, oil and water-soluble UV absorbers, perfume oils and / or dyes.

Under oil and water-soluble hair care agents are preferably cationic or cationic hair-care substances, such as cationic Polymers, cationic surfactants or cationically derivatized protein hydrolysates, Vitamins and vitamin derivatives as well as oil-soluble Waxes understood.

Examples of preferably suitable cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. Example, a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose obtainable under the name Polymer JR400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such. As Luviquat ^® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such. B. amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and Dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylentriamin (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as. B. described in the FR-A 2252840 and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline distributed, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bis-dialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. ^Jaguar® CBS, ^Jaguar® C-17, ^Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. B. Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

The cationic polymers are used in the preferred compositions preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.2 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the compositions used.

When Cationic surfactants may preferably surfactants of the type quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the Amidoamines are used. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The lengths Alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 Carbon atoms on.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The Alkylamidoamines are usually natural by amidation or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts prepared with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound from this group of substances that under the name Tegoamido S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyldimethylamine represents.

The cationic surfactants are in the preferably used agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 1 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In another embodiment of the preferred means the effect of using protein hydrolysates and their cationic derivatives are further increased. protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained.

Preferably Both protein and protein hydrolysates can be plant-based animal origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Particularly preferred is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, for. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

The Protein hydrolysates are particularly preferred in an amount of 0.1 to 6 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.2 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the funds used.

Under especially preferred vitamins and vitamin derivatives become such Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among others
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of Palmitinsäureesters may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially alpha-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its Derivatives, including in particular the esters, such as acetate, nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa-hydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the novel Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers The preferred agents contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin particularly preferred nourishing agents, especially preferred is panthenol and its derivatives.

UV filter are preferably selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Particularly preferred UV filters are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4- methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neoheliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3- dione (butyl methoxydiben-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 505 , Eusolex ^® 6007, salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neoheliopan ^® OS, Uvinol ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamate (isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neoheliopan ^® e 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol 557 ^{®, ®} Neoheliopan AV), 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 630 0), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-ethyl acrylate, polymers of N - {(2- and 4 -) [2-0x0b0rn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20H, Uvinol 400 ^®, 1,1'-Diphenylacryllonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octostyrene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neoheliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-Aminobenzoesäurementhylester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neoheliopan ^® MA) , 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D 50), 2,2'-di hydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-6) and 2-cyano-3,3'-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester.

Especially Benzophenone-3 is preferred.

An example of an especially preferred, water-soluble UV filter is 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid (Uvasorb ^® 55, Uvinul ^® MS 40, Escalol 577 ^®; Benzophenone-4).

The UV filters are preferably used in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent used.

When Color pigments are for example the pigments with the C. I. names Pigment Red 57: 1, Pigment Red 57: 2, Pigment Red 172, Pigment Red 90: 1, Pigment Yellow 100, Pigment Yellow 115, Pigment Red 174, Pigment Red 4, Pigment Blue 29, Pigment Violet 15, Pigment Violet 16, Pigment Red 29, Pigment Green 17, Pigment Green 18, Natural Red 4, Pigment White 6, Pigment White 14 and Pigment White 31.

As oil-soluble waxes it is possible with preference to use all waxes which have a melting point in the range from 40 to 90 ° C. As waxes in the context of the invention, all substances can be used, as z. In Ullmanns Enzyklopadie der technischen Chemie, 4th Edition, Volume 24, page 3 , left column, are listed and physiologically acceptable.

Prefers The waxes are made from plant, animal and mineral Waxes are selected, with such waxes being preferred may have a melting point in the range of 50 to 85 ° C, in particular from 60 to 75 ° C, have.

Especially preferred waxes are beeswax (CeraAlba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline paraffins) cetyl palmitate, or mixtures of these waxes.

Preferred wax blends include, for example under the names "special wax 7686 OE" (mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene having a melting range of 73 ° to 75 ° C Manufacturer: Kahl & Co.), Polywax ^® GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate having a melting point of 47 to 51 ° C manufacturer: Croda) and "soft ceresin FL 400" (a petroleum jelly / naseline oil / wax mixture having a melting point of 50 to 54 ° C manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralölgesellschaft) are commercially available ,

When Wax components may preferably also be liquid Waxes, such as jojoba oil are used.

With regard to further customary ingredients, express reference is made to the monographs known to the person skilled in the art, for example Dr. K. Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, Dr. med. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg , referenced.

The Assembling the preferred means is not subject to any restrictions. You can use as lotion, pump hair spray, pump spray, Care spray, anti-frizz spray, anti-anxiety spray or shine spray made-up become.

Embodiment:

Shine Spray:

The quantities below are based on wt .-%.

In water 49.65

The heated to about 65 ° C is stirred PVP ¹ 5.00

Granted and solved clearly.

Thereafter, successively with stirring and without heat panthenol 0.20 Dimethicone 4.00 trisiloxane 11.00 Essential Oil 0.15 triethylcitrate 29,00 Isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate ² 1.00 added.

• ¹ Luviskol^®K30 Pulver (INCI: Polyvinylpyrrolidone; 95–100% AS)
• ² Neoheliopan^® E 1000 (INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate)

There was a training of 3 phases, which were mixed by vigorous shaking and split again when left standing.

• ¹ Luviskol ^® K30 powder (INCI: polyvinylpyrrolidone, 95-100% AS)
• ² Neoheliopan ^® E 1000 (INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate)

• (A) mindestens einem Silikontensid, ausgewählt aus Siloxan/Polyoxyalkylen Copolymeren
• (B) mindestens einer, in dem Mittel in flüssiger Form vorliegenden hydrophoben, nicht-tensidischen Silikonverbindung,
• (C) mindestens einer ein basisches oder kationisches Stickstoffatom enthaltenden haarkonditionierenden Verbindung,
• (D) mindestens einem nichtionischen, silikonfreien Tensid und
• (E) 15 bis 50 Gew.-% Wasser,
• (F) 15 bis 50 Gew.-% mindestens eines mehrwertigen Alkohols und
• (G) mindestens einem Elektrolyt.

A further embodiment of the dispensing device according to the invention with a cosmetic fluid contains as cosmetic fluid a clear water-in-silicone oil hair conditioning agent. The cosmetic fluid is an optically clear, transparent or translucent hair conditioner in the form of a water-in-silicone oil emulsion containing

• (A) at least one silicone surfactant selected from siloxane / polyoxyalkylene copolymers
• (B) at least one hydrophobic non-surfactant silicone compound present in the composition in liquid form,
• (C) at least one hair conditioning compound containing a basic or cationic nitrogen atom,
• (D) at least one nonionic, silicone-free surfactant and
• (E) 15 to 50% by weight of water,
• (F) 15 to 50% by weight of at least one polyhydric alcohol and
• (G) at least one electrolyte.

The total silicone oil phase preferably makes less than 40, more preferably less than 20% by weight and the aqueous Phase preferably makes more than 60, more preferably more than 80 wt .-% of the total composition. The agent met to a hair conditioner with regard to conditioning effect in the best way possible. The remedy is on the hair well spreadable. The hair is after the treatment both noticeably smoother and softer when wet or dry. The hair is better combed and hairdressed, entwined and shiny. Moreover, the combination according to the invention enables that the agent in a visually appealing, clear formulation can be confectioned, which in turn makes the advantageous packaging in a transparent container, for example made of glass or clear plastic, e.g. As polyethylene, polypropylene or polyethylene terephthalate.

The silicone surfactant (A) is preferably contained in the preferred agent in an amount of from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.1 to 5, most preferably from 0.4 to 2% by weight. Suitable silicones are siloxane / polyoxyalkylene copolymers. These are siloxanes with polyalkylene oxide groups, in particular silicones which are modified with polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide or mixtures thereof. The alkylene oxide groups may be pendant or terminal or may be linear polydimethylsiloxane / polyalkylene oxide block copolymers. The siloxanes modified with alkylene oxides carry the INCI name dimethicone copolyol. Preferred silicone surfactants are those of the same general formula (I) AB _x -D _y -A (I) where A is the monofunctional group R ₂ R ¹ SiO _1/2 ,
B represents the difunctional group R ₂ SiO,
D stands for the difunctional group RR ¹ SiO,
R independently of one another is H, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl or aryl, preferably H or C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, particularly preferably methyl,
R ^{1 represents} an oxyalkylene-containing group, hydrogen or methyl,
x is a number from 10 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 500, particularly preferably from 20 to 200, and
y is a number from 0 to 100, preferably 1 to 50,
with the proviso that the compound contains at least one oxyalkylene-containing group R ¹ .

The group-R ¹ preferably represents a group of the general formula (II) -R ² (OC _n H _2n ) _m R ³ (II) wherein R ^{2 is} a divalent group which binds the oxyalkylene unit to the siloxane chain, preferably C _p H _2p where p is 2-8, preferably 2-6, more preferably 3-6;
R ^{3 is} a monofunctional end group for the oxyalkylene unit, for example H, OH, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, aryl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₆ -acyloxy, preferably OH;
n is a number from 2 to 4, preferably 2 or 3, and m is a number of at least one, wherein the sum of m for all oxyalkylene groups is about 10 or greater.

Suitable silicone surfactants are commercially available, for example, DC 3225 C, DC Q2-5220, DC 193, DC 190 or DC Q4-3667 from Dow Corning, Silwet ^® L-7200 from OSI Specialties, Abil ^® B8830, Abil ^® B8851, Abil ^® B8863 or Abil ^® EM97 from Goldschmidt, SF-1188 from General Electric or KF353A by Shin Etsu.

The hydrophobic, non-surfactant silicone compound (B) is in one Amount of preferably 5 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably of Contain 7.5 to 25, most preferably from 10 to 20 wt .-%. In principle, all silicone compounds are suitable, hair conditioning Have properties and insoluble in the aqueous phase are. Here the silicone compounds are volatile and low molecular weight or low volatility and high molecular weight be. In a preferred embodiment, both at least a low molecular weight, volatile as well as at least contain a high molecular weight, non-volatile or semi-volatile silicone. Non-volatile silicones within the meaning of this application are Silicones with little or no vapor pressure under normal environmental conditions (1 atmosphere, 25 ° C). These silicones remain on the hair after being applied. fugitive Silicones, on the other hand, evaporate after application to the hair normal environmental conditions over a period of typically about 2 hours. But the high molecular weight silicone can also silicone resins (silicone resin, silicone gum) act, which in a low molecular weight liquid silicone solute are. The low molecular weight silicone oils have a viscosity of preferably 100 to 1,000 mPa s, the high molecular weight silicone oils from over 1,000 to 2,000,000 mPa s at 25 C, measured with a Haake rotary viscometer type VT 501 at a shear rate of 12.9 per second. As hydrophobic silicones are generally cyclic Polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Cyclomethicone), such as. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), polydiethylsiloxanes, phenyl-substituted siloxanes (INCI name: phenyltrimethicone), Polymethylphenysiloxanes, hydroxy-substituted siloxanes (INCI name: Dimethiconol) or mixtures thereof.

The nitrogen-containing hair conditioning compound (C) is in one Amount of preferably 0.01 to 10, particularly preferably of 0.1 to 5, most preferably from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%. The hair conditioning compound is a substance based on primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary Amine groups have a substantivity to human hair.

suitable Hair conditioning compounds are selected from cationic Surfactants, betainic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic Polymers, cationically derivatized proteins or protein hydrolysates, Betaine and nitrogen-containing silicone compounds Particularly preferred is at least one cationic, silicone-free surfactant as also at least one nitrogen-containing silicone compound in the contain agents according to the invention.

Suitable cationic surfactants are surfactants containing a quaternary ammonium group. These may be cationic or amphoteric, betainic surfactants. Particularly preferred cation-active substances (A) are cationic surfactants. Suitable cationic surfactants include amino groups or quaternized hydrophilic ammonium groups which carry a positive charge in solution and can be represented by the general formula (III) N ⁽⁺⁾ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ X ^{(- )} (III) where R 1 to R 4 independently of one another are aliphatic groups, aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups each having 1 to 22 C atoms and X ^{(-) is} a cosmetically acceptable anion, for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate , Nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. To the surfactant properties added ensure that at least one of the radicals R1 to R4 has at least 8 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may also contain, in addition to the carbon atoms and the hydrogen atoms, cross-links or other groups such as e.g. B. contain further amino groups.

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates and compounds with cationic Characteristics such as amine oxides, for example alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Particularly preferred are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, in the form of a 26prozentigen aqueous solution under the trade name Dehyquart ^® A from Cognis under the trade name Genamin CTAC, ex Clariant, and in the form of a 50 percent solution in isopropanol under the trade name Arquad 16-50 of the Company Akzo Nobel.

wobei R5 eine geradkettige oder verzweigtkettige Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 bis etwa 10 Ethylenoxideinheiten und 0 bis 1 Glycerineinheit darstellt; Y eine N-, P- oder S-haltige Gruppe ist; R6 eine Alkyl- oder Monohydroxyalkylgruppe mit 1 bis 3 Kohlenstoffatomen ist; x gleich 1 ist, falls Y ein Schwefelatom ist und x gleich 2 ist, wenn Y ein Stickstoffatom oder ein Phosphoratom ist; R7 eine Alkylen- oder Hydroxyalkylengruppe mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen ist und Z^(–) eine Carboxylat-, Sulfat-, Phosphonat- oder Phosphatgruppe darstellt.Suitable amphoteric surfactants are derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium and sulfonium compounds of the formula (IV)

wherein R5 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide units and 0 to 1 glycerol unit; Y is an N-, P- or S-containing group; R6 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x is 1 if Y is a sulfur atom and x is 2 if Y is a nitrogen atom or a phosphorus atom; R7 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Z ^{(-) is} a carboxylate, sulfate, phosphonate or phosphate group.

Other Amphoteric surfactants such as alkyl betaines are also suitable for the inventive hair treatment agent. Examples for betaines include C8 to C18 alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, Lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, Cetyidimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine and lauryl bis (2-hydroxypropyl) -alpha-carboxyethylbetaine; C8-bis C18-sulfobetaines, such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyl-dimethylsulfopropylbetaine, Lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethyammonium salts and the C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamidobetaines such as the Kokosfettsäureamidopropylbetain, which for example in the form of a 30% aqueous solution under the Trade name Tego betaine L7 sold by the company Goldschmidt AG and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N- [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl] glycerol (CTFA name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate), which z. B. in the form of a 50% aqueous solution under the trade name Miranol C2M sold by Miranol Chemical Co. Inc.

at the suitable cationic polymer is preferably hair-setting or hair-conditioning polymers. suitable Cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary Amine groups. The cationic polymers can be homo- or Be copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent one or more of the monomers are included. The ammonium groups containing monomers can with non-cationic monomers be copolymerized. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which contain at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as Trialkymethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as Pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. As alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alykivinylpyrrolidon Salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower Alkyl groups such. B. C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers include acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. As vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.

suitable For example, polymers with quaternary amine groups are in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium described polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).

Of the cationic polymers which may be included in the preferred agent, e.g. As vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer sold under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734 by the company ISP and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by BASF, under the trade name LUVIQUAT ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of Dimethyidiallylammoniumchlorid, sodium acrylate and acrylamide sold by the company ISP / USA under the trade name Gaffix ^® VC 713 terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylcaprolactam and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium copolymer.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (V) GOBN ⁺ R ^a R ^b R ^c X ^- (V) G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R ^a , R ^b and R ^c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R ^a , R ^b and R ^{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;
X ^- is a common counteranion, has the same meaning as in formula (III) and is preferably chloride. A cationic cellulose sold by Amerchol under the name Polymer JR has the INCI name Polyquaternium-10. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. A suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ^® R and has the INCI designation Guar Hydroxpropyltrimonium chlorides.

Especially preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and Chitosan derivatives. In the preferably used chitosans it is completely or partially deacetylated Chitins. For the preparation of chitosan is preferably from the chitin contained in the shell remains of crustaceans, which as a cheap and natural commodity in big Quantities is available. The molecular weight of chitosan can be spread over a wide range, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. Suitable, for example a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of 30,000 up to 70,000 g / mol.

Preferably however, the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, especially preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 up to 99%.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan.

The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.

When Neutralizing agents can in principle all cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used such. Formic acid, tartaric acid, Malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, Hydrochloric acid u. a., Of which the Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure is particularly preferred.

Further suitable cationic, hair care compounds are cationic modified protein derivatives or cationically modified protein hydrolysates and are known, for example, under the INCI names Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein.

suitable cationically derivatized protein hydrolysates are substance mixtures, For example, by the reaction of alkaline, acidic or enzymatic hydrolyzed proteins with glycidyl trialkylammonium salts or 3-Halohydroxypropyltrialkylammoniumsalzen can be obtained. Proteins used as starting materials for protein hydrolysates can serve, both herbal and animal To be of origin. Usual starting materials are, for example Kerstin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, rice protein, milk protein, wheat protein, Silk protein or almond protein. By hydrolysis arise Substance mixtures with molecular weights in the range of about 100 to about 50,000. usual average molecular weights are in the range of about 500 to about 1000. Advantageously, the cationically derivatized protein hydrolysates contain one or two long C8 to C22 alkyl chains and correspondingly two or a short C1 to C4 alkyl chains. Connections that last a long time Containing alkyl chain are preferred.

Suitable cationic silicone compounds are cationic silicones, betainic silicones or amino-substituted silicones and have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers having amino groups are known under the INCI names amodimethicone and trimethylsilylamodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal. Suitable aminosilicones are those of the general formula (VI) R ⁸ R ⁹ R ¹⁰ Si (OSiR ¹¹ R ¹² ) x- (OSiR ¹³ Q) y-OSiR ¹⁴ R15R ¹⁶ (VI) R ⁸ , R ⁹ , R ¹⁴ and R ¹⁵ are each independently the same or different and are C 1 to C 10 alkyl, phenyl, hydroxy, hydrogen, C 1 to C 10 alkoxy or acetoxy, preferably C 1 to C 4 alkyl, more preferably Methyl; R ¹⁰ and R ¹⁶ are each independently the same or different and are - (CH ₂ ) a -NH 2 where a is 1 to 6, C 1 to C 10 alkyl, phenyl, hydroxy, hydrogen, C 1 to C 10 alkoxy or acetoxy , preferably C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, more preferably methyl;
R ¹¹ , R ¹² and R ¹³ are each independently the same or different and are hydrogen, C 1 to C 20 hydrocarbon, which may contain O and N atoms, preferably C 1 to C 10 alkyl or phenyl, more preferably C 1 to C4 alkyl, especially methyl;
Q is -A-NR ¹⁷ R ¹⁸ , or -AN ⁺ R ¹⁷ R ¹⁸ R ¹⁹ where A is a divalent C 1 to C 20 -alkylene linking group, which may also contain O and N atoms and OH groups, and R ¹⁷ , R18 and R19 are independently the same or different and are hydrogen, C1 to C22 hydrocarbon, preferably C1 to C4 alkyl or phenyl. Preferred radicals for Q are - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -NH ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ NH ₂ and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) 2, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -NH ₃ ⁺ and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ R ²⁰ , wherein R ^{20 is} a C 1 to C 22 alkyl radical which may also have OH groups; x represents a number between 1 and 10,000, preferably between 1 and 1,000; y is a number between 1 and 500, preferably between 1 and 50.

The Molecular weight of the aminosilicone is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5.

suitable Silicone polymers with two terminal quaternaries Ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.

Suitable quaternary aminosilicones are those of the general formula (VII) R ²¹ R ²² R ²³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁸ R ⁹ - (OSiR ¹¹ R ¹² ) _n -OSiR ⁸ R ⁹ -AN ⁺ R ²¹ R ²² R ²³ 2X ^- (VII)

A has the same meaning as given above in formula (VI) and is preferably - (CH ₂ ) ₃ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ in combination with the group N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ R ²⁰ , where R ^{20 is} a C 1 to C 22 alkyl radical is, which may also have OH groups;
R ⁸ , R ⁹ , R ¹¹ and R ¹² have the same meaning as given above in formula (VI) and are preferably methyl; R ²¹ , R ²² , and R ²³ independently of one another denote C 1 - to C ²² -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and wherein preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 10 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms; n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100.

Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are sold by the company Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3274th

The nonionic, silicone-free surfactant (D) is contained in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 5, more preferably from 0.1 to 2, most preferably from 0.2 to 1 wt .-%. Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, im "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 7th edition, volume 2 in the section "Surfactants-EmulsifyingAgents" listed nonionic emulsifiers. Suitable nonionic surfactants are preferably selected from ethoxylated fatty acid fatty acids of 10 to 26 carbon atoms, ethoxylated mono- or polyhydric alcohols of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, ethoxylated fatty alcohols of 10 to 26 carbon atoms, ethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, alkyl polyglucosides, glyceride alkoxylates, fatty acid glyceride polyalkylene glycol ethers, or fatty acid partial glyceride polyalkylene glycol ethers, respectively less than 30 alkylene glycol units such as, for example, polyethylene glycol (7) glyceryl cocoate, polyglycol amides, fatty acid sugar esters, ethoxylated fatty acid sugar esters, and partial glycerides. The degree of ethoxylation of ethoxylated surfactants is usually from 1 to 400, preferably from 2 to 200, more preferably from 3 to 25. Preferred nonionic surfactants are in particular fatty alcohol ethoxylates. Suitable z. Example, alcohols having 10 to 18, preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of preferably 2 to 200, more preferably from 3 to 25. Preferably, the nonionic surfactants have a relatively high HLB value of at least 9 on.

Of the Water content is from 15 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, most preferably from 15 to 39% by weight. The aqueous phase of the preferred agent contains as a co-solvent at least one cosmetically acceptable polyhydric alcohol. Suitable polyhydric alcohols are in particular those having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as. As ethylene glycol or propylene glycol but also sorbitol, of which glycerol is particularly preferred. The polyhydric alcohols are preferably used in an amount of From 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, completely particularly preferably used from 15 to 39 wt .-%. In addition, you can still the usual for cosmetic purposes used lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as As ethanol and isopropanol.

The preferred agent is preferably present as a microemulsion. to Achieving a particularly clear product will be the refractive indices adjusted by oil phase and aqueous phase, that they are essentially the same size. The preferred agent is characterized by its clarity and transparency. Therefore, the agent is advantageously also in a visually appealing Packaging filled with transparent or translucent material. The packaging material is in particular glass and transparent or translucent plastics such. B. polyethylene terephthalate into consideration.

The preferred means to increase the emulsion stability water-soluble electrolytes such. For example, sodium chloride or Sodium sulfate. The electrolytes are preferably in an amount from 0.01 to 5, more preferably from 0.1 to 4, especially preferably used from 0.5 to 1.5 wt .-%.

The preferred agent is preferably in an acidic pH range before, for example, from 2.0 to 6.0. Particularly preferred is the pH range between 3.5 and 4.5. The pH can be adjusted by suitable organic or inorganic acids are adjusted, for example by formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, Maleic acid, fumaric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, Citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, Acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, Glyoxylic acid u. a ..

In addition, the preferred agent may contain the usual auxiliary ingredients for hair treatment agents, for example, strengthening or non-strengthening nonionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers and combinations thereof in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 10 % By weight, which polymers can be of synthetic or natural origin; Perfume oils in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight; further wetting agents or emulsifiers from the classes of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surface-active substances in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%; Humectants; Preservatives, bactericidal and fungicidal agents such as 2,4,4-trichloro-2-hydroxydiphenyl ether, parabens or methylchloroisothiazolinone in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight; Buffering agents, such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of from 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; Staining agents, such as fluorescein sodium salt, in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; Conditioners, such as plant and herbal extracts, protein and silk hydrolysates, lanolin derivatives, in an amount of 0.1 to 5 weight percent; Light stabilizers, antioxidants, radical scavengers, anti-dandruff agents, fatty alcohols, brighteners, vitamins and moisturizing agents in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%.

The Means can be different as a lotion or as a thickened lotion Viscosities or in the form of a highly viscous or flowable Gels or as liquid gel.

Lies it in low viscous form, so it can achieve a especially good spreadability on the hair also sprayed become. The hair treatment agent is then according to the invention in Combination with the dispenser before. Under mechanical spray devices are to be understood as such devices, which the spraying allow a liquid without the use of a propellant. As a suitable mechanical spray device z. Legs Spray pump or provided with a spray valve elastic container in which the preferred cosmetic Medium is filled under pressure, with the elastic Container expands and out of the means as a result of contraction the elastic container when opening the spray valve is discharged continuously.

The Agent can be used both as a rinse-off and as a leave-on product become. A typical application as a rinse-off product consists in that sufficient for the desired conditioning effect Amount after shampooing in or on wet or damp, towel-dried hair is distributed. The amount to be applied depends on the hair fullness and amounts to typically 1 to 25 g, preferably 3 to 10 g. After a sufficient Exposure time of, for example, 1 to 15 minutes, the hair is rinsed out. If only a slight conditioning effect is desired, can be rinsed out immediately. Then it will if necessary combed through the hair or formed into a hairstyle and dried. When used as a leave-on product, preferably 0.5 to 3 g of the product incorporated into the dry hair. there the cuticles are smoothed, unwanted ripples removes and gives the hair shine, stylability, control and structure awarded.

The following examples are intended to explain the preferred cosmetic fluid in more detail. Example 1: Clear hair conditioner 16.0 g Cyclomethicones (Dow Corning 345) 6.0 g Dow Corning 3225C (dimethicone copolyol, 10% in cyclo- methicone) 0.75 g Phenyltrimethicone (Dow Corning Fluid 556) 1.0 g Dimethicone (Dow Corning 200, 500 cps) 0.5 g Dimethicone (Dow Coming 200, 60000 cps) 0.5 g Dow Corning 1401 (dimethiconol, 13% in cyclomethicone) 0.5 g Trimethylsilylamodimethicone (Dow Corning Q2-8220) 1.0 g etyltrimethylammoniumchlorid 0.5 g Cremophor RH410 (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) 0.8 g sodium chloride 0.1 g Citric acid qs perfume, preservative 34.0 g glycerin ad 100 g water Example 2: Clear hair conditioner 7.0 g Cyclomethicones (Dow Corning 345) 10.0 g Dow Corning 3225C (dimethicone copolyol, 10% in cyclo- methicone) 0.75 g Phenyltrimethicone (Dow Corning Fluid 556) 0.75 g Dimethicone (Dow Corning 200, 1000 cps) 0.5 g SF 1214 (Silicone Gum, 15% in Cyclomethicone, General Elec- tric) 0.5 g Dow Corning 2-8194 (24% amodimethicone, 7% cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 8% trideceth-12.2% cyclomethicone in water ser) 0.5 g Cremophor RH410 (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) 1.0 g sodium chloride 0.1 g citric acid 37.1 g glycerin ad 100 g water Example 3: Clear hair conditioner 16.0 g Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 344) 6.0 g Dow Corning 3225C (dimethicone copolyol, 10% in cyclo- methicone) 1.0 g 2-hydroxyethyl-2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propylether- cellulose chloride (Polyquaternium-10, Polymer JR 400) 1.0 g Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20, Tween ^® 20), 0.8 g sodium chloride 37.2 g glycerin ad 100 g water Example 4: Clear hair conditioner 16.0 g Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 344) 6.0 g Dow Corning 3225C (Dimethicone Copolyol, 10% in Cyclomethicone) 2.0 g Gafquat # 755N (Polyquaternium-11, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate methosulfate copolymer, 20% in water) 1.0 g Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20, Tweene 20) 0.8 g sodium chloride 37.2 g glycerin ad 100 g water Example 5: Clear hair conditioner 16.0 g Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 344) 6.0 g Dow Corning 3225C (dimethicone copolyol, 10% in cyclo- methicone) 0.3 g hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Jaguar C162) 1.0 g Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20, Tweens 20) 0.8 g sodium chloride 37.9 g glycerin ad 100 g water Example 6: Clear hair conditioner 16.0 g Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 344) 6.0 g Dow Corning 3225C (dimethicone copolyol, 10% in cyclo- methicone) 3.0 g of Luviquate Care (Polyquaternium 44.3-methyl-1) vinyl-1H-imidazolium-methylsulfonylpyrrolidone copolymer, 7% in water) 1.0 g Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20, Tween ^® 20) 0.8 g sodium chloride 36.2 g glycerin ad 100 g water

A Another preferred embodiment of the invention Dispensing device with a cosmetic fluid relates to a cosmetic Fluid used as a hair styling product.

• (A) mindestens einer Silikonverbindung, ausgewählt aus Ester von polyalkoxylierten Polydimethylsiloxanen,
• (B) mindestens einem Gelbildner oder Verdicker,
• (C) mindestens einen Emulgator und
• (D) Wasser in Kombination mit einer Vorrichtung zum Versprühen oder Verschäumen der Zusammensetzung sowie deren Verwendung zur Pflege und/oder zum Stylen von menschlichem Haar.

Contains the foamable or sprayable, gelatinous emulsion

• (A) at least one silicone compound selected from esters of polyalkoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes,
• (B) at least one gelling agent or thickener,
• (C) at least one emulsifier and
• (D) water in combination with a device for spraying or foaming the composition and its use for the care and / or styling of human hair.

Foamable compositions are compositions which by means of suitable devices for foaming such. For example, pump foams or aerosol packagings with a foam head form a foam which is stable for at least a short time (for example at least 30 seconds). Sprayable compositions are compositions from which by means of suitable spraying devices such. As spray pumps or aerosol packaging with spray head a spray with sufficiently small droplet size (eg., Average drop size preferably less than 150 microns, especially less than or equal to 100 microns) can be formed. The gelatinous emulsion may have, among other things, fluid consistency (liquid gel). As a rule, gel compositions differ from liquids in that they have elastic properties, ie the elastic component of the storage modulus (elastic modulus) G 'exceeds the value of the loss modulus G''. At room temperature (25 ° C), G 'is greater G''in at least one sub-range (eg at 20 Hz), preferably in the entire range of normal measurement frequencies such as 0.01 to 40 Hz, measurable z. B. with a rheometer Bohlin CS system. The viscosity of the gelatinous emulsion is preferably from 500 to 20,000, particularly preferably from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa s, measured with a HAAKE VT-501 rotational viscometer, measuring body SV-DIN at a temperature of 25 ° C. and a shear rate of 12.9 s ^{. 1} (speed series B, speed 5). Emulsions are disperse systems having at least one hydrophilic phase and at least one hydrophobic phase insoluble therein.

Alkoxylated silicone esters (A)

The Esters of polyalkoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes (A) are preferred in an amount of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, or from 0.2 to 20% by weight, especially preferably from 1 to 10% by weight.

polyalkoxylated Polydimethylsiloxanes have one or more terminal or pendant Polyalkylenoxidgruppen on, preferably polyethylene oxide (polyethylene glycol) and / or polypropylene oxide (polypropylene glycol). The degree of alkoxylation is preferably 2 to 40, in particular 5 to 30, 7 to 20 or 10 to 15. The polyalkoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes are preferably esterified with organic carboxylic acids, especially with fatty acids. With the fatty acids these are preferably monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids having at least 8, preferably 10 to 32 C atoms. Particularly preferred are fatty acids from natural waxes, eg. B. fatty acids Beeswax or candelilla wax.

Suitable esters of polyalkoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes are e.g. Those with the INCI names Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candellilate, Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Avocadoate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Avocadoate, Dimethicone PEG -8 Beeswax, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Borageate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Cocoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Isostearate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Isostearate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Lactate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Lanolate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Laurate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Octyldodecyl Citrate, Dimethicone PEG -7 Olivate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Olivate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phthalate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phthalate, Dimethicone PEG / PPG20 / 23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate. Particular preference is given to fatty acid esters of bis (polyethylene oxide) polydimethylsiloxanes

Thickener, gelling agent (B)

• – Polymere auf natürlicher Basis, insbesondere Polysaccharide und deren Derivate, z. B. Sclerotium Gum, Stärke, Gelatine, Cellulose und deren Derivate wie Carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose oder Hydroxyethylcellulose, mikrokristalline Cellulose, sowie Extrakte aus Algen wie Agar-agar, Carrageenane oder Alginate, sowie Carouba Gum, Guar Gum und dessen Derivate wie z. B. alkylierte oder hydroxyalkyliertes Guar, Karaya Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gum arabicum, Pektine, Gellan Gum
• – synthetische Polymere wie z. B. Polyvinylpyrrolidon oder vernetzte Polyacrylate (Carbomere, Carbopole),
• – Anorganische Verdicker wie Hectorite, Bentonite,
• – Aluminium und Magnesiumsilikate oder ein Gemisch der genannten Substanzen.

Thickeners or gelling agents of component (B) are preferably present in an amount of from 0.05 to 30% by weight, from 0.2 to 20% by weight or particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. Suitable thickeners or gelling agents are

• - Natural-based polymers, in particular polysaccharides and their derivatives, eg. As sclerotium gum, starch, gelatin, cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, as well as extracts of algae such as agar-agar, carrageenans or alginates, and Carouba gum, guar gum and its derivatives such z. Alkylated or hydroxyalkylated guar, karaya gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic, pectins, gellan gum
• - Synthetic polymers such. As polyvinylpyrrolidone or crosslinked polyacrylates (carbomers, carbopols),
• Inorganic thickeners such as hectorites, bentonites,
• - Aluminum and magnesium silicates or a mixture of the substances mentioned.

preferred Thickeners are polysaccharides or polysaccharide derivatives such. As carboxylates, alkyl ethers, hydroxyalkyl ethers, alkyl esters or hydroxyalkyl esters. Particularly preferred is a content of 0.1 to 10 wt .-% carrageenan, in particular kappa-carrageenan and / or iota-carrageenan and gellan Gum.

Emulsifier (C)

The emulsifiers (C) may be present in amounts of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%. It may be nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Suitable surfactants are for example those in 'International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook', 7th edition, volume 2 in the section 'Surfactants' , in particular in the subsection 'Surfactants Emulsifying Agents' listed surfactants. Preference is given to silicone surfactants, in particular alkoxylated dimethylpolysiloxanes and non-silicone-containing, nonionic organic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants are z. Example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, Alkylpolyglyco side, fatty acid mono and diglycerides, ethoxylated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxyethylated fatty acid esters. Cationic surfactants are z. As long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds as they are known under the CTFA designations "Quaternium" such. B. alkyltrimethylammonium salts or dialkyldimethylammonium salts with C8 to C22 alkyl groups. Suitable cationic surfactants are those of the general formula N ⁽⁺⁾ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ X ^(-) where R ¹ to R ⁴ independently of one another are aliphatic groups, aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups each having 1 to 22 C atoms, where at least one of the radicals R ¹ to R ^{4 has} at least 8 C atoms and X ^{(-) represents} a cosmetically acceptable anion, e.g. As a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. The aliphatic groups may, in addition to the carbon atoms and the hydrogen atoms, also cross-links or other groups, such as. B. contain further amino groups. Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, the dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, e.g. As lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, Alkylamidoethyltrimethylammoniumethersulfate and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Alkylmethylaminoxide or Alkylaminoethyldimethylaminoxide. Particularly preferred is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride. Suitable cationic surfactants are in particular also the so-called Esterquats, z. B. C8 to C18 alkyl esters of betaine, for example palmitylbetaine chloride.

Anionic surfactants may, for. B. be selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of the C 1 - to C 18 -alkyl sulfates, the C 1 - to C 18 -alkyl sulfonates, the C 1 - to C 18 -alkylbenzenesulfonates, the C 1 - to C 18 -xylenesulfonates and ethoxylated with 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units C 1 - to C18-Alkylethersulfate, the ethoxylated sulfosuccinic monoesters of the general formula R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _m -O ₂ C-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ M) -COOM wherein R is a C1O to C18 alkyl radical, M is an alkali or alkaline earth metal and m is a number from 1 to 10 and the alkyl ether carboxylates of the general formula R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) n -OCH ₂ -COOM wherein R is a C1O to C18 alkyl radical, M is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal and n is a number from 1 to 20, wherein the alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts of the ethoxylated with 1 to 10 ethylene oxide C1O to C18 alkyl ether sulfates are particularly preferred.

Amphoteric surfactants may, for. B. be selected from derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium and sulfonium compounds of the general formula R ¹ -Y ⁽⁺⁾ (R ² ) _x -CH ₂ -R ³ -Z ^(-) wherein R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 18 C atoms and 0 to 10 ethylene oxide units and 0 to 1 glycerol unit; Y is an N-, P- or S-containing group; R 2 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 C atoms; x is 1 if Y is an S atom and x is 2 if Y is an N or a P atom; R3 is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Z is a carboxylate, sulfate, phosphonate or phosphate group. Other suitable amphoteric surfactants are those derived from betaine, e.g. C8 to C18 alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethyl-gamma-carboxypropylbetaine or lauryl-bis (2-hydroxy-propyl) -alphacarboxyethylbetaine; C8 to C18 alkyl sulfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8 to C1 [delta] alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts and the C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamido betaines such as. As the Kokosfettsäureamidopropylbetain (INCI Be drawing: Cocamidopropylbetain) and the N-Kokosfettsäureamidoethyl-N [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl] glycerol (INCI name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate).

Preferred silicone surfactants are alkoxylated dimethylpolysiloxanes. These are siloxane / polyoxyalkylene copoly [pi] iere. These are siloxanes with polyalkylene oxide groups, in particular silicones which are modified with polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide or mixtures thereof. The alkylene oxide groups may be pendant or terminal or may be linear polydimethylsiloxane / polyalkylene oxide block copolymers. The degree of alkoxylation is preferably from 2 to 40, in particular from 10 to 30, particularly preferably from 12 to 20. The siloxanes modified with alkylene oxides are also known under the former INCI name dimethicone copolyol. Silicone surfactants may be those of the general formula AB _x -D _y -A where A is the monofunctional group R ₂ R ¹ SiO _1/2 ,
B represents the difunctional group R ₂ SiO,
D stands for the difunctional group RR ¹ SiO,
R is independently H, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl or aryl, preferably H or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, more preferably methyl, R ^{1 is} an oxyalkylene containing group, hydrogen or methyl, x is a number of 10 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 500, particularly preferably from 20 to 200 and y is a number from 0 to 100, preferably 1 to 50, with the proviso that the compound contains at least one oxyalkylene-containing group R <1> , The group -R <1> preferably represents a group of the general formula -R ² (OC _n H _2n ) _m R ³ wherein R ^{2 is} a divalent group which binds the oxyalkylene unit to the siloxane chain, preferably C _p H _2p where p is 2-8, preferably 2-6, more preferably 3-6; R ^{3 is} a monofunctional end group for the oxyalkylene unit, for example H, OH, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, aryl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₆ -acyloxy, preferably OH;
n is a number from 2 to 4, preferably 2 or 3, and
m is a number of at least one, wherein the sum of m for all oxyalkylene groups is 2 to 40, preferably 10 to 30.

Suitable silicone surfactants are commercially available, for. DC 3225 C, DC Q2-5220, DC 193, DC 190 or DC Q4-3667 from Dow Corning, Silwet L-7200 from OSI Specialties, Abil B8830, Abil B8851, Abil B8863 or Abil EM97 from Goldschmidt, SF1188 from General Electric or KF353A from Shin Etsu.

preferred Silicone compounds are those with the INCI names

• – PPG-y Dimethicone, wobei y für den Propoxylierungsgrad steht und z. B. Werte von 2 bis 30, insbesondere die Werte 12 oder 27 haben kann;
• – PEG/PPG-x/y, wobei x für den Ethoxylierungsgrad und y für den Propoxylierungsgrad stehen und z. B. Werte von jeweils von 2 bis 30, insbesondere die Werte 3/10, 4/12, 6/11, 8/14, 12/16, 12/18, 14/4, 15/15, 16/2, 16/8, 17/18, 18/18, 19/19, 20/6, 20/15, 20/20, 20/23, 20/29, 22/23, 22/24, 23/6, 25/25, 27/27 haben kann.

PEG-x Dimethicone, where x is the degree of ethoxylation and z. B. values from 2 to 20, in particular the values 3, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14 or 17 may have;

• - PPG-y Dimethicone, where y is the degree of propoxylation and z. Values from 2 to 30, in particular 12 or 27;
• - PEG / PPG-x / y, where x is the degree of ethoxylation and y is the degree of propoxylation and z. For example, values of from 2 to 30, in particular the values 3/10, 4/12, 6/11, 8/14, 12/16, 12/18, 14/4, 15/15, 16/2, 16 / 8, 17/18, 18/18, 19/19, 20/6, 20/15, 20/20, 20/23, 20/29, 22/23, 22/24, 23/6, 25/25 , 27/27 can have.

preferred Silicone surfactants are, in particular, also bis-alkoxylated silicone compounds, d. H. Poly (dialkylsiloxanes) which have two terminal or pendant Have polyoxyalkylene chains. Preference is given to block copolymers, in particular of the type ABA, with a middle block of polydimethylsiloxane and end blocks of polyethylene oxide and / or polypropylene oxide. The endblocks can be terminally substituted or preferably unsubstituted, d. H. free hydroxyl groups exhibit. The degree of alkoxylation is preferably from 2 to 40, in particular from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 20.

Suitable silicone compounds are also those of the formula R1 (AO) _{x 1} -B1-SiMe ₂ O (SiMe2O) _x3 -SiMe ₂ O-B2- (AO) _x2-R2, wherein R 1 is a hydroxy group, an alkoxy group having 1 to 22 C atoms or a carboxyalkyl group having 2 to 22 C atoms, B 1 and B 2 are different or preferably the same, and a single bond or a divalent linking group, especially an alkylene group having 1, 2 , 3 or 4 carbon atoms; AO represents an oxyalkylene group, especially oxyethylene or oxypropylene; R 2 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms etherified or esterified with the adjacent oxyalkylene group; x1 and x2 are numbers greater than or equal to 1 and their sum indicates the degree of alkoxylation and x3 is a number greater than or equal to 1 and indicates the degree of polymerization of the dimethylpolysiloxane.

• – Bis-PEG-x Dimethicone, wobei x für den Ethoxylierungsgrad steht und z. B. Werte von 2 bis 30, insbesondere die Werte 4, 12 und 20 haben kann;
• – Bis-PEG/PPG-x/y Dimethicone wobei x für den Ethoxylierungsgrad und y für den Propoxylierungsgrad stehen und z. B. Werte von jeweils von 2 bis 30, insbesondere die Werte 14/14, 20/20, 16/16 haben kann.

Preferred silicone compounds are those with the INCI names

• Bis-PEG-x Dimethicone, where x is the degree of ethoxylation and z. B. values from 2 to 30, in particular the values 4, 12 and 20 may have;
• Bis-PEG / PPG-x / y dimethicones where x is the degree of ethoxylation and y is the degree of propoxylation and z. B. values of each of 2 to 30, in particular the values 14/14, 20/20, 16/16 may have.

Prefers in particular bis (polyethylene oxide) polydimethylsiloxanes, z. Bis-PEG-4 dimethicones, bis-PEG-12 dimethicones, bis-PEG-20 dimethicones, Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicones, bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicones, bis-PEG / PPG16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16/16 Dimethicone.

solvent

When hydrophilic solvent is contained in the emulsion water. The water content may be 20 to 90, 30 to 80 or preferably 40 to 70 wt .-% amount. Water may contain as the only hydrophilic solvent be, or as substantially single with not more than 1 wt .-% other hydrophilic solvent. In some embodiments But, in addition to water in the hydrophilic phase but can also other, water-soluble, cosmetically acceptable, organic solvents in amounts of, for. B. 1 to 40 wt .-% or 5 to 30 wt .-% contained. Such solvents are z. B. lower monohydric alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol or polyhydric C 2 to C 4 alcohols, such as. For example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, Propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerin.

application forms

In one embodiment, the preferred hairstyling product is an aerosol or non-aerosol foam product (mousse) and is present in the present invention with a suitable foaming device. The emulsion is foamable, ie it contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose, eg. B. at least one foam-forming surfactant and / or at least one foaming polymer. Foaming devices are to be understood as meaning devices which enable the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent. As a suitable mechanical foaming device, for example, a commercially available pump foamer or an aerosol foam head can be used. As a non-aerosol foam product (pump foam), it has a mechanical pump foaming device. As aerosol foam product, it has at least one blowing agent, a pressure-resistant packaging and a device for foaming in the form of a foam head. The propellant may, for. B. in an amount of 1 to 20, from 2 to 15 or from 5 to 10 wt .-%. Propellants can z. For example, it may be selected from propane, butane, dimethyl ether, fluorinated hydrocarbons (eg, 1,1-difluoroethane). It is also possible to use carbon dioxide alone or in combination with at least one further blowing agent. Preference is given to propane and butane, their mixtures and carbon dioxide and mixtures thereof with at least one further blowing agent. Carbon dioxide is preferably contained in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight or from 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total composition. Carbon dioxide is preferably combined with at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10 or from 1 to 5% by weight of at least one further blowing agent, in particular propane, butane, DME and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons (e.g. B. 1,1-difluoroethane).

The Agent is foamed immediately before use and incorporated as a foam in the hair and can then rinsed out be left in the hair or without rinsing.

In an embodiment of the invention If the hairstyling product is a pump-sprayed product, that has a mechanical dispensing device. The emulsion is sprayable with the help of a suitable mechanically operated Sprayer. Under mechanical spray devices are to be understood as such devices, which the spraying allow a composition without the use of a blowing agent. As a suitable mechanical spray device, for example A spray pump can be used or one with a spray valve provided elastic container in which the cosmetic agent is filled under pressure, with the elastic container expands and out of the means as a result of the contraction of the elastic Container when opening the spray valve is delivered continuously.

Hair-setting and hair-care polymers

In one embodiment contains the preferred composition at least one hair-setting and / or at least one hair-care Polymer. The hair setting or hair conditioning polymers are preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight or from 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. It may be anionic polymers, d. H. to polymers with anionic or anionizable Groups to cationic polymers, d. H. to polymers with cationic or cationizable groups to zwitterionic polymers, d. H. to polymers with cationic and anionic groups to amphoteric Polymers, d. H. to polymers with acidic and basic groups or to act nonionic polymers. Under anionizable groups are acid groups such. B. carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid groups understood by means of customary Bases such as As organic amines or alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides can be deprotonated. Anionic polymers can partially or completely with a basic neutralizing agent be neutralized. A degree of neutralization of 50 is preferred to 100%, more preferably from 70 to 100%. As a neutralizing agent For example, organic or inorganic bases can be used. Examples of bases are, in particular, aminoalkanols, such as z. B. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine, but also ammonia, NaOH, KOH u. a ..

The anionic polymer may be a homo- or copolymer with acid group-containing monomer units on a natural or synthetic basis, which may be copolymerized with comonomers containing no acid groups. Acid groups include sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid and carboxylic acid groups, of which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred. Suitable acid group-containing monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride, maleic acid monoesters, in particular the mono-C 1 -C 7 -alkyl esters of maleic acid and also aldehydocarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids. For example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, vinylalcohol, propyleneglycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomers such as e.g. Dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups. Suitable polymers having acid groups are in particular uncrosslinked or crosslinked with polyfunctional agents homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrole lidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid and copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides and methacrylamides. A suitable natural polymer is, for example, shellac.

Preferred polymers with acid groups are:
Terpolymers of acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate and N-alkylacrylamide (INCI name: acrylates / acrylamide copolymer), in particular terpolymers of acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and Ntert-butylacrylamide; crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers (INCI name: VA / crotonates copolymer); Copolymers of one or more C 1 -C 5 -alkyl acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 4 -alkyl acrylates and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer), eg. B. terpolymers of tert-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid; sodium polystyrene sulfonate; Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl alkanoate copolymers, e.g. B. copolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and vinyl propionate; Copolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and vinyl neodecanoate (INCI names: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer); Aminomethylpropanol acrylate copolymers; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and at least one other monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters; Copoly [pi] iere of methyl vinyl ether and maleic acid monoalkyl esters (INCI names: ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer); Aminomethylpropanolsalze of copoly [tau] neren from allyl methacrylate and at least one other monomer selected from acrylic acid, and methacrylic acid and optionally acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters; crosslinked copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid; Copolymers of vinyl acetate, mono-n-butyl maleate and isobornyl acrylate; Copolymers of two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters; Copolymers of octylacrylamide and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, if appropriate, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters; Polyesters of diglycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid, wherein the alkyl groups of the abovementioned polymers generally have preferably 1, 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

Preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers are: copolymers formed from alkylacrylamide, alkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and two or more monomers from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally their esters, in particular copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethylmethacrylate, methylmethacrylate and hydroxypropylmethacrylate (INCI name: octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl Methacrylate copolymer); Copolymers formed from at least one first type of monomer having quaternary amine groups and at least one second type of monomer having acidic groups; Copolymers of fatty alcohol acrylates, Alkylaminoxidmethacrylat and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, in particular copolymers of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, Ethylaminoxidmethacrylat and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally their esters;
Copolymers of methacryloyl ethyl betaine and at least one monomer selected from methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters; Copolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47), copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylates or copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine (INCI name: Polyquaternium-43); Oligomers or polymers preparable from quaternary Crotonbetainen or quaternary Crotonbetainestern.

cationic Polymers are especially those with primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups. The cationic Charge [epsilon] density is preferably 1 to 7 meq / g. Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary Amine groups. The cationic polymers may be homo or Be copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent one or more of the monomers are included. The ammonium groups containing monomers can with non-cationic monomers be copolymerized. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which contain at least one carry cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary Vinylammoniummonomere with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, Imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. B. alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these Monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as. B. C1 to C7-alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3-alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacryl amide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. For example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

suitable Polymers with quaternary amine groups are e.g. B. in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium described polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary End groups (Quaternium-80).

Synthetic based preferred cationic polymers: poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride); Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; quaternary ammonium polymers formed by the reaction of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, especially vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylatmethosulfat copolymer (e.g. Gafquat ^® 755 N, Gafquat ^® 734th); quaternary ammonium polymers from methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone (e.g. LUVIQUAT ^® HM 550th); Polyquaternium-35; Polyquaternium-57; Polymer of trimethyl ammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride; Terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide (. Eg Merquat ^® Plus 3300); Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride; Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylcaprolactam (e.g. Gaffix ^® VC 713).; Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (. Eg Gafquat ^® HS 100); Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, poly or oligoester, composed of at least one first type of monomer selected from hydroxy acid substituted with at least one quaternary ammonium group; terminally substituted with quaternary ammonium groups dimethylpolysiloxanes.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are, in particular, cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have z. For example, the general formula GOBN ⁺ R ^a R ^b R ^c X ^- G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example, starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene; R ^a , R ^b and R ^c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R ^a , R ^b and R ^{c is} preferably not more than 20 is; X is a common counter anion, for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. Cationic celluloses are z. For example, those with the INCI names Polyquaterium-10 or Polyquaternium-24. A suitable cationic guar derivative has z. As the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives. The chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. The molecular weight may be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol, e.g. From 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%. A preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidone carboxylate, e.g. B. Kytamer ^® PC with a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and deacetylation of 70 to 85%. As chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, eg. As hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutylchitosan into consideration. The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. As neutralizing agents, it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids, such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid, among others, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.

Preferred cationic polymers on a natural basis:
cationic cellulose derivatives of hydroxyethyl cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic cellulose derivatives of hydroxyethyl cellulose and trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, chitosan and its salts; Hydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts; Alkylhydroxyalkylchitosans and their salts; N-Hydroxyalkylchitosanalkylether; N-Hydroxyalkylchitosanbenzylether.

suitable Nonionic polymers are homopolymers or copolymers consisting of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, Vinyl esters such. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacryate, Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups these monomers preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, especially preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups. Suitable z. B. homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, non-ionic, hair-setting Polymers are z. B. copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and Vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; Polyvinyl alcohols and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol Copolymers. Suitable natural film-forming polymers are z. B. cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxyalkyl cellulose.

Preferred nonionic polymers are:
Polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, isobutylene / ethylmaleimide / hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate.

Fats, oils, waxes

In one embodiment contains the preferred composition in the hydrophobic phase of the emulsion at least one additional hydrophobic fat, wax or oil. The additional hydrophobic substances are preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 20 wt .-% or from 1 to 10 wt .-%. Especially preferred are mineral oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acid triglycerides.

suitable Fats and waxes or waxy substances show a solidification or dropping point which is greater than or equal to 25 ° C, preferably in the range of 30 to 100 ° C, in particular is in the range of 40 to 90 ° C. Fats and waxy Substances are z. B. animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral Waxes, synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline Waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, montan waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, Polyolefin waxes (eg polyethylene, polybutene and the like), amide waxes, Silicone waxes, beeswax, wool wax (lanolin) and its derivatives such as B. wool wax alcohols (Lanolinalkohole), candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Japan wax, fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides, long-chain carboxylic acids or long-chain (C1O to C22) Alcohols, each with melting, solidification or dripping points above 25 ° C. Suitable is z. As castor wax, which is hardened, d. H. hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor OiI) with melting point up to about 90 ° C. A preferred wax is beeswax.

Suitable oils are liquid hydrophobic substances at room temperature. These may be oils or oily substances such. B. naturally occurring, renewable oils (vegetable and animal fatty oils), synthetic oils, silicone oils, especially linear or cyclic dimethylpolysiloxanes, mineral oils, essential oils, water-insoluble, branched or linear aliphatic hydrocarbons, linear or branched alcohols, in particular liquid fatty alcohols and long-chain ethers or esters, wherein said substances preferably have at least 8 CAtome. Suitable hydrocarbons are z. As liquid paraffins, squalane or squalene. Also suitable are esters of trihydric and polyhydric alcohols, in particular vegetable triglycerides such. As olive oil, almond oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil and synthetic triglycerides such. B. C8-C10-Trifettsäureglycerinester or jojoba oil. Also suitable as a hydrophobic substance are mono- or diesters of the formulas R ¹ COOR ² , R ¹ -COO-R ³ OOCR ¹ and R ² OOC-R ³ -COOR ² , where R ^{1 is} a C 8 to C 22 alkyl group, R ² is a C3 to C22 alkyl group and R ³ stands for a C2 to C16 alkylene group. Also suitable are naturally occurring monoesters or wax mixtures, as z. B. in jojoba oil or sperm oil and branched primary alcohols, as they are known under the name Guerbet alcohols. Substances which are customarily used as opacifiers in cosmetic compositions, in particular those of the formula R ¹ -COO (CHR ⁴ CHR ⁵ O) _n -COR ^6, where R ^{1 is} a C 8 - to C 22 -alkyl group, R, are also suitable as hydrophobic substances ⁴ and R ^{5 is} hydrogen or methyl and R ^{6 is} hydrogen or R ¹ and n is a number between 1 and 12, preferably 1, 2, 3 or 4. Glycol difatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol difatty acid esters which are in solid form at room temperature are preferred.

additives

The preferred products may additionally be conventional in the emulsion Active ingredients and excipients included. The additional effects and adjuvants are preferably in an amount of e.g. B. 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. The Additives can z. B. selected from Plants and herbal extracts, protein and silk hydrolyzates, Light stabilizers, antioxidants, radical scavengers, antidandruff active ingredients, Gloss donors, vitamins, panthenol, plasticizers, combability improvers, proteins, Bactericides, virucides, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic active substances, keratin-reducing substances, oxidizing agents, direct hair dyes, oxidation dye precursors.

manufacturing

The preparation of the emulsion can be carried out by a known method. An overview of modern processes for the preparation of semi-solid and liquid emulsions is the article in SÖFW-Journal, 124th year, 5/98, pages 308 to 313 as well as the article in the SÖFW-Journal, 118th year, 5/92, pages 287 to 296 refer to. The preparation is generally carried out in such a way that the hydrophobic phase heated to about 60 to 75 ° C and solid wax substances are melted. Thickeners, gelling agents and optionally styling polymers are swollen or dissolved in the aqueous phase and also heated to about 60 to 75 ° C. The hot premixes are combined and homogenized with a blender or homogenizer. Temperature-sensitive or volatile components are added after cooling to about 30 to 40 ° C. Subsequently, the finished emulsion is cooled to room temperature. Aerosol products are z. B. filled with about 5 to 10 wt .-% propane / butane or dimethyl ether.

The preferred products are applicable to dry and wet hair and well distributed in the hair. With inventive products treated hair has a pleasant wax grip after drying, a Restyle option and over conventional Hair wax products a good combing especially the wet hair on. The products are also easy to wash out again. The foam produced by the preferred foam products draws itself versus conventional aerosol styling or Hair care foams by a particularly pleasant, creamy Haptic during use.

The Cosmetic fluid is applied by putting it in a dependent manner from the amount of hair and hair condition to achieve the desired Hairstyling effect sufficient amount (typically about 3-10 g) on the washed hair as a foam or spray by means of the dispenser is applied and distributed. Preferably, the agent remains in the hair and it is dried after use.

The Preferred product can be used in particular for care and / or for styling human hair.

Of the Aerosol foam is characterized by a special foam quality out. After removal from the pressure pack, a develops optically beautiful foam. This changes when distributing with the hands suddenly into a creamy, well distributed Mass around. The mass can be optimally distributed in the Har. Immediately after application, the product has a high stickiness in the hair, what the styling properties compared to conventional Styling waxes, foam growth and mousse strengthened. The Stickiness reduces automatically with increasing Dry and create a dry, waxy feel of the hair without greasy shine. The product brings excellent stability and very good styling properties in the hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the cosmetic fluids in more detail. Examples of hairstyling products raw material Example 1 Ex. 2 Example 3 Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax (Siliconyl Beeswax) 4.5 three 4.5 Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate (Siliconyl Candelilla) 4.5 0.75 4.5 Kappa-carrageenan (Genugel ^® X-901-02) 0.2 0.4 - Iota-carrageenan (Seaspen ^® PF) 0.6 - 0.6 PEG-12 Dimethicone 4.5 4.5 4.5 PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.5 1.5 4.5 Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer (Luviset ^® Clear) 7 - 7 Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (Luviskol ^® VA 64) 0.6 - 0.6 Vinyl acetate / crotonate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer (Resyn 28-2930) - 2.25 - Paraffin perliquidum 1.5 - 1.5 Adeps Lanae (lanolin) - three - Shea butter 5 - 5 Perfume 0.2 - 0.2 amino methyl propanol - 0.4 - ethanol 15 25 15 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100

The Production takes place by melting the wax phase with the oil components, Sources and lots of thickeners and styling polymers m the aqueous Phase, combining and homogenizing the hot premixes and Addition of temperature-sensitive or volatile components at about 35 ° C. For aerosol foams, the Emulsions with about 5-10% propane / butane or dimethyl ether filled in pressure-resistant packaging with foam head. For Pump sprays are the emulsions in suitable packaging with Packaged spray pump.

The aerosol foam is characterized by a special foam quality. After removal from the pressure packaging, a visually beautiful foam develops. When he spreads his hands, he suddenly changes into a creamy, well-distributed mass. The mass can be optimally distributed in the Har. Immediately after application, the product has a high stickiness in the hair, which improves the styling properties over conventional styling waxes, foam waxes and mousses. The stickiness reduces automatically with increasing drying and creates a dry, waxy feel of the hair without greasy shine. The product brings excellent stability and very good styling properties in the hair. Example 4 raw material A B Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax (Siliconyl Beeswax) 4.5 - Beeswax, bleached - 4.5 Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate (Siliconyl Candelilla) 4.5 4.5 PEG-12 Dimethicone 4.5 4.5 PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.5 4.5 Iota-carrageenan (Seaspen ^® PF) 0.6 0.6 Kappa-carrageenan (Genugel ^® X-901-02) 0.2 0.2 Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer (Luviset ^® Clear) 7 7 Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (Luviskol ^® VA 64) 0.6 0.6 Shea butter 5 5 Paraffin perliquidum 1.5 1.5 Perfume 0.2 0.2 Ethanol (95%) 15 15 water Ad 100 Ad 100

The preparation takes place as described above. 91% by weight of the emulsions are filled with 3% by weight of propane / butane (2.7 bar) and 6% by weight of dimethyl ether in pressure-resistant packaging with a foam head. [Example 5 raw material A B Beeswax, bleached 4.5 4.5 Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate (Siliconyl Candelilla) 4.5 4.5 PEG-12 Dimethicone 4.5 4.5 PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.5 4.5 Iota-carrageenan (Seaspen ^® PF) 0.6 - Kappa-carrageenan (Genugel ^® X-901-02) 0.2 0.2 Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer (Luviset ^® Clear) 7 7 Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (Luviskol ^® VA 64) 0.6 0.6 Shea butter 5 5 Paraffin perliquidum 1.5 1.5 Perfume 0.2 0.2 1,2-propylene glycol - 15 Ethanol (95%) 15 - water Ad 100 Ad 100 Filling: emulsion 91 96 Propane / butane 2.7 bar three 2 dimethyl ether 6 - carbon dioxide - 2

The Production takes place as described above. The emulsions are filled with the blowing agents in flameproof packaging with foam head.

[Product 5B has a carbon dioxide content compared to 5A improved foam quality. The foam quality is more compact, the hair is easier to style.

A Another preferred embodiment of the invention Dispensing device with a cosmetic fluid relates to a cosmetic Fluid from a water-in-oil emulsion containing a content on silicone oils and talc.

One Aspect of the present invention is products with one possible to provide a wide variety of applications. For example should lay the foundations for preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, Face and body care preparations, but also pronounced be created medical-pharmaceutical dosage forms, for example, preparations for acne and other skin conditions.

The Formulation of stable water-in-oil emulsions with above average Skin care performance (skin moisturizing and skin smoothing) designed in combination with very good sensory properties is currently very difficult.

This is not least due to the fact that the addition of skin care effective Additive such. As moisturizers, certain lipids or film formers to unstable emulsions and / or a dull or sticky or also greasy feeling on the skin when distributing the product on the skin, so that while the emulsions may be effective, but at the same time sensory unacceptable and / or unstable.

Under Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems two non-miscible or only partially miscible liquids exist, which are commonly referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is in Form of the finest droplets in the other liquid dispersed.

are the two liquids water and oil and are oil droplets finely divided in water, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk).

Of the The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. For a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) it is the reverse principle, the basic character determined here by the oil.

It has proven itself in the past, at least Parts of a cosmetically used oil phase from the group the cyclic and / or linear silicones to choose which in the context of the present disclosure also referred to as "silicone oils" become. However, silicones have some disadvantages, mainly formulation-technical nature. Nevertheless, they were so far indispensable, you wanted to base cosmetic preparations on formulating silicone oils.

Of course, a variety of ways are known in the art to formulate stable W / O preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments spreadable in the range of room to skin temperature, or as lotions and milk, which in This temperature range are more fluent. However, the prior art knows only a few Fomulierungen that are so thin that they were, for example, sprayable.

Especially Preparations for cosmetic or therapeutic skin care included as essential components blends of oils or oil-soluble Substances and water or water-soluble substances. Certain in itself from the cosmetic point of view very advantageous components the water phase, z. As glycerol, but also the oil phase, z. B. tocopheryl acetate affect in higher concentrations negatively affecting the sensory properties of the preparations. Often this manifests itself in an increased stickiness feeling or even a feeling of greasiness in the application of appropriate Preparations which are then not marketable in individual cases because they are not accepted by the consumer or be judged negatively.

It is known, by adding certain substances, for example, some selected powder raw materials, in particular Talcum, this sticky feeling or feeling of greasiness to reduce. That being said, this is rarely complete succeeds, by such an addition also the viscosity of the product in question and the stability reduced.

Around the skin-moisturizing effect of water-in-oil emulsions be increased, polyols (glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Sorbitol, etc.). These preparations are especially with a polyol content of over 5% very sticky and not acceptable for sensory reasons. After this Product order should be on the skin little or no residue remain.

Under The term "viscosity" is understood the property of a liquid, the mutual laminar Displacement of two adjacent layers a resistance (toughness, internal friction). One defines today these so-called dynamic viscosity as the ratio of shear stress to Velocity gradients perpendicular to the flow direction. For Newtonian fluids is given at Temperature is a substance constant with the SI unit pascal second (Pa s).

The quotient of the dynamic viscosity and the density of the liquid is called the kinematic viscosity and is given in the SI unit m ² / s.

When Fluidity refers to the reciprocal of the viscosity. In ointments and the like, the use value among others Determined by the so-called speed. Under the speed an ointment or ointment base or the like is meant by them Property when filing different lengths of thread too pull; Accordingly, a distinction between short and long Substances.

While the graphic representation of the flow behavior of Newtonian fluids at a given temperature results in a straight line, show in the so-called non-Newtonian fluids in dependence from the respective velocity gradient D or the shear stress often significant deviations. In these cases lets determine the so-called apparent viscosity, the While not obeying Newton's equation, it does by graphic methods the true viscosity values can be determined.

W / O emulsions, with a low viscosity, a storage stability as demanded for marketable products is to be formulated according to the prior art only very expensive. Accordingly, the offer of such formulations is extremely low. Nevertheless, such formulations could be used in the Provide consumers with previously unknown cosmetic services.

W / O emulsions, with a higher viscosity are quite common Preparations. Abandoning cyclic silicone oils However, such preparations tend to be cosmetically undemanding to act and by a little appealing skin feeling reward.

One Aspect was to provide bases for preparations to provide, which on the one hand allow it, higher viscosity Make preparations (which are commonly used as creams but also a good foundation on the other hand for preparations which have a low or even have very low viscosity (ie, for example Formulations that would be commonly referred to as lotions) and according to the invention by a dispensing device can be dosed.

• (a) Wasser-in-Öl-Emulsionen darstellen, welche
• (b) einen Gehalt an Talkum aufweisen
• (c) wobei die Ölphase 20 bis 55% des Gesamtgewichtes der Zubereitung ausmacht und
• 0,5 bis 12 (d) wobei die Ölphase einen Gehalt von Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an einem oder mehreren Siliconölen, enthält.

Surprisingly, these aspects are solved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations which

• (a) represent water-in-oil emulsions which
• (b) have a content of talc
• (c) wherein the oil phase constitutes 20 to 55% of the total weight of the preparation, and
• 0.5 to 12 (d) wherein the oil phase contains a content of wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation, of one or more silicone oils.

• – besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,
• – einfacher zu formulieren sein,
• – besser die Hautglättung fördern,
• – sich durch besser Pflegewirkung auszeichen,
• – besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und medizinisch-dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen
• – bessere sensorische Eigenschaften, wie beispielsweise die Verteifbarkeit auf der Haut oder das Einzugsvermögen in die Haut, aufweisen würden
• – höhere Stabilität gegenüber Zerfall in Öl- und Wasserphasen aufweisen und sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden
• – und besser dosierbar sind.

It was therefore not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preferred preparations

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - be easier to phrase
• - better promote skin smoothing,
• - is characterized by a better care effect,
• - better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological agents
• - would have better sensory properties, such as skin adjustability or skin absorption
• - have higher stability against decay in oil and water phases and would be characterized by better biocompatibility
• - And are better dosed.

The preferred formulations are both sprayable to free-flowing as well as creamy formulated, possess very good cosmetic Properties, in particular as regards the stickiness, and wise a very good skin compatibility and Hauptflegeleistung on.

Preferably It is possible and beneficial to the proportion of oil phase the preferred formulations in the range of, for example, 20 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, free to choose.

Talc is a hydrated magnesium silicate of composition 3 MgO 4 SiO ₂ H ₂ O or Mg ₃ (Si ₄ 0 ₁₀ ) (OH) ₂ or Mg ₆ (OH) ₄ [Si ₈ 0 ₂₀ ] or Mg ₁₂ [Si ₁₆ O ₄₀ ], but which may contain proportions of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate of up to 12% by weight of Al ₂ O ₃ , based on the total product. Talc is a white, usually very fine, virtually odorless to slightly earthy-smelling powder that feels greasy when rubbing, without being fatty. It is insoluble in water, cold acids or alkalis. Depending on the country of origin, the chemical purity of the talc (based on the content of anhydrous magnesium silicate) should be 93-98%. Talcum is used for the production of pharmaceutical, but especially for the production of cosmetic powders, which are used for personal care, but is also suitable for tablet production as a lubricant or superplasticizer.

Of the Particle diameter (equivalent spherical diameter) of the talc should be in the range of 0.5-50 μm. In general Such talcum qualities have proven themselves, the not more than 5% by weight of particles below 1 μm and not more than 5 wt .-% of particles over 50 microns in size. Preferably, the proportion of particles larger than 40 to have in diameter (sieve residue), at most 2% by weight. The mean pond diameter (D 50) is preferred at 5-15 um.

The content of impurities should not exceed 1.6% by weight of Fe ₂ O ₃ , 1% by weight of CaO and 1% by weight of unbound water (dry loss at 1050 ° C.).

The content of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate may be up to 60% by weight, calculated as Al ₂ O ₃ , up to 12% by weight.

Especially Advantageously, the molded WO emulsions contain 0.1-20 Wt .-% talc, preferably 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

• – Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen
• – wässrige ethanolische Lösungen
• – natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

As basic components of the preferred preparations can be used:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - aqueous ethanolic solutions
• - natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- or -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmo nomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.

Especially are mixtures of the abovementioned solvents used.

It is preferred to select the oily phase of the preferred formulations from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as "silicone oils" in the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2–200.000 annehmen.Particularly advantageous linear silicones having a plurality of siloxy units are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2 to 200,000.

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, dassungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Particularly advantageous cyclic silicones are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageous Phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, Behenoxydimethicone are beneficial to use.

Advantageous are also mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

It but is also beneficial, silicone oils more similar To choose a constitution like the above-mentioned compounds, their organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (Cytyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Polyglyceryl 4-Isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

The oil phase The emulsions are preferably 0.5 to 12% by weight of silicones the type listed under item (b), but it does is possible to take into account without major disadvantages until half of the total weight of the oil components from the group of other oil components. These can then be chosen advantageously from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then are advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Further can the oil components of the oil phase are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the diacyl ether and / or dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or branched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of one chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides For example, they can be chosen advantageously from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, z. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, Coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Especially can advantageously be used fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes are chosen. According to the invention For example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, Sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, Shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), Burdock fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those known under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid _triglyceride ) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 fatty acid). available from CRODA GmbH and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats such. Hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fatty and / or wax components mentioned, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane.

Preferably Both the fat and / or wax components can be sold individually as well as in a mixture.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example Cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicapryl dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhe xylisostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

From The hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, Squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene advantageous to be used in the sense of the present invention.

inventive W / O emulsions can be advantageously using the usual W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of O / W emulsifiers or other Coemulgatoren be prepared.

The disclosed W / O emulsions comprise one or more emulsifiers, in particular advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl lanolate, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Ceramicrocristallina) in admixture with paraffin oil, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythritol isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat in admixture with Isopropylhydroxycetylether, Methylglucosedioleat, Methylglucosedioleat in admixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in admixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and Gtyceryloleat and lanolin, petrolatum in admixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated Ricnusöl and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan oleate in admixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate in admixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglycerol yl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate admixed with cetyl dimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

If desired, the preferred disclosed W / O emulsions comprise one or more emulsifiers, in particular advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in admixture with stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate , Stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate mixed with propylene glycol, PEG-9 stearate, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, Glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG 30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 steara t, steareth-2 admixed with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG 40 sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycylmethyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20 , Glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

It was particularly surprising that the preferred cosmetic or dermatological W / O emulsions which differ in their content on silicone emulsifiers, very particularly advantageous properties exhibit. Such W / O emulsions are accordingly particularly preferred Embodiments of the cosmetic fluids.

bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1-24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0-200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1-40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1-100 darstellt.The silicone emulsifiers may preferably be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of the alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

wherein X and Y are independently selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1-24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0-200, q is a number from 1-40, and r is one Represents number from 1-100.

An example of particularly advantageous to use surface-active substances is cetyl dimethicone, which is sold by Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 90.

Another example of particularly advantageous to use surface-active substances is the cyclomethicone dimethicone, which is sold by Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 97th

Farther has proved to be particularly advantageous emulsifier Laurylmethiconcopolyol issued under the trade name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning Ltd. available is.

The Total amount of preferably used silicone emulsifiers in the Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight the preparations.

preferred Emulsions, eg. B. in the form of a skin protection cream, a Skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a Sunscreen or sunscreen milk, are beneficial and contain z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or others Fats, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they usually do for such a type of Formulation to be used.

It Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that demanding Cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. These include, for example Bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, Stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.

mutatis Mutandis are subject to appropriate formulation requirements medical preparations.

medical Topical preferred compositions usually include one or several medications in effective concentration. The simplicity Half is used to make a clear distinction between cosmetic and cosmetic medical application and related products to the statutory Provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and drug law).

Corresponding may be the preferred cosmetic or topical dermatological Compositions, depending on their structure, for example, used who as the skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, Nourishing cream, day or night cream, etc. It is optional possible and advantageous, the preferred compositions as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is also advantageous from the preferred properties in Form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations) use close.

Cheap are also such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in the form of a sunscreen. Preferably contain these in addition to the preferably used active ingredient in addition at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

It but is also beneficial to such cosmetic and dermatological Preparing preparations whose main purpose not the protection from sunlight, but still a salary Contains UV protection substances. For example, in day creams usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances.

Advantageous For example, preferred preparations may contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of Filter substances z. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble be. As oil-soluble substances z. B. too call:

• 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, z. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamate;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, Salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonate (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z. B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze,
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, eg. As sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The List of said UVB filters, which are preferably used Of course, this should not be limiting be.

It may also be advantageous, in preferred formulations UVA filter commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are included. In such filter substances they are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations, which contain these combinations are the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances can be used which were named for UVB filter substances.

The preferred cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations may also contain inorganic pigments, commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, Silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as Modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Especially preferred are pigments based on titanium dioxide. It can the quantities mentioned for the above combinations be used.

The preferred cosmetic and dermatological preparations contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as is customary be used in such preparations, for. B. antioxidants, Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the have coloring effect, thickener, surface-active Substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic Solvent or silicone derivatives.

• (1) der Salze mit folgenden Anionen: Chloride, ferner anorganische Oxo-Element-Anionen, von diesen insbesondere Sulfate, Carbonate, Phosphate, Borate und Aluminate. Auch auf organischen Anionen basierende Elektrolyte sind vorteilhaft, z. B. Lactate, Acetate, Benzoate, Propionate, Tartrate, Citrate, Aminosäuren und deren Salze und andere mehr. Vergleichbare Effekte sind auch durch Ethylendiamintetraessigsäure und deren Salze zu erzielen.

It is advantageous if the preferred W / O emulsions are characterized by a proportion of electrolytes. It is particularly advantageous for the electrolyte (s) to be selected from the group

• (1) the salts having the following anions: chlorides, furthermore inorganic oxo-element anions, of these in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates. Also on organic anions based electrolytes are advantageous, for. As lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids and their salts and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved by ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts.

When Cations of the salts are preferably ammonium, -alkylammonium, -alkali-metal, Alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron or zinc ions used. It There is no need to mention that in cosmetics only physiological harmless electrolytes should be used. Especially preferred are potassium chloride, common salt, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures it.

• (2) Bestimmte wasserlösliche, zumeist als Alkalisalze vorliegende wasserlösliche UV-Filtersubstanzen, insbesondere solche, die an ihrem Molekülgerüst eine oder mehrere Sulfonsäuregruppen bzw. Sulfonatgruppen tragen:

Die 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beispielsweise das Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz

Preferably, the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group

• (2) Certain water-soluble, mostly alkali metal salts water-soluble UV filter substances, in particular those which carry one or more sulfonic acid groups or sulfonate groups on their molecular skeleton:

The 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example the sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt thereof

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:

The 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:

The 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene -1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid denotes:

• (3) der Aminosäuren und deren Salze bzw. deren Anionen. Aminosäuren sind Bestandteil des natürlichen Feuchtigkeitsfaktors (der sogenannte Natural Moisturizing Factor). Der Zusatz von Aminosäuren, insbesondere essentieller Aminosäuren, ist als vorteilhaft anzusehen, da über Hydratationsvorgänge Feuchtigkeit in der Haut gebunden werden kann.

Preferably, the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group

• (3) the amino acids and their salts or their anions. Amino acids are part of the natural moisture factor (the so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor). The addition of amino acids, in particular essential amino acids, is to be regarded as advantageous since moisture can be bound in the skin via hydration processes.

amino acids with particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological action are glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, Proline, hydroxyproline, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, Arginine.

• (4) der kosmetisch und dermatologisch relevanten α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und insbesondere deren Salze, wobei die Kationen vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Ammonium, -Alkylammonium, -Alkalimetall-, Erdalkalimetall, -Magnesium-, Eisen- bzw. Zinkionen.

Preferably, the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group

• (4) the cosmetically and dermatologically relevant .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acids, .alpha.-ketocarboxylic acids and .beta.-hydroxycarboxylic acids and in particular their salts, where the cations can be advantageously selected from the group consisting of ammonium, -alkylammonium, -alkali-metal, alkaline-earth metal, -magnesium, iron - or zinc ions.

α-hydroxycarboxylic acids which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant follow the general formula

β-hydroxycarboxylic acids which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant follow the general formula

wobei jeweils R' und R'' unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe

• (a1) H-,
• (a2) verzweigtes oder unverzweigtes C_1-25-Alkyl-,
• (a3) mit einer oder mehreren Carboxylgruppen und/oder Hydroxygruppen und/oder Aldehydgruppen und/oder Oxogruppen (Ketogruppen) substituiertes verzweigtes oder unverzweigtes C_1-25-Alkyl-
• (a4) Phenyl-,
• (a5) mit einer oder mehreren Carboxylgruppen und/oder Hydroxygruppen und/oder verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten C_1-25Alkylgruppen substituiertes Phenyl-, oder wobei das α-Kohlenstoffatom und das β-Kohlenstoffatom der β-Hydroxycarbonsäure mit R' und R'' zusammen eine
• (a6) unsubstituierte Cycloalkylgruppe oder Arylgruppe mit 3 bis 7 Ringatomen oder eine
• (a7) mit einer oder mehreren Carboxylgruppen und/oder Hydroxygruppen und/oder Oxogruppen (Ketogruppen) und/oder verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten C1-25-Alkylgruppen substituierte Cycloalkylgruppe oder Arylgruppe mit 3 bis 7 Ringatomen ausbildet und wobei die α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder die β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder die α-Ketocarbonsäuren gegebenenfalls in Form ihrer physiologisch verträglichen Salze vorliegen können.

α-Ketocarbonsäuren, which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant, follow the general formula

wherein each R 'and R''are independently selected from the group

• (a1) H,
• (a2) branched or unbranched C _1-25 -alkyl,
• (a3) branched or unbranched C _1-25 -alkyl substituted with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or aldehyde groups and / or oxo groups (keto groups)
• (a4) phenyl,
• (a5) phenyl- substituted with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxy groups and / or branched and / or unbranched C _1-25 alkyl groups, or wherein the α-carbon atom and the β-carbon atom of the β-hydroxycarboxylic acid with R 'and R''together one
• (a6) unsubstituted cycloalkyl group or aryl group having 3 to 7 ring atoms or a
• (a7) cycloalkyl group or aryl group having 3 to 7 ring atoms and substituted by one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or oxo groups (keto groups) and / or branched and / or unbranched C1-25-alkyl groups and wherein the α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or the α-ketocarboxylic acids may optionally be present in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts.

It follow particularly advantageous to use α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and α-ketocarboxylic acids, these are also representative of their salts or anions be listed:

gekennzeichnet ist. Bekanntermaßen wirkt Salicylsäure antibakteriell und keratolytisch und ist Bestandteil mancher kosmetischen oder pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen.The salicylic acid (also 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, spiro acid), which is due to the structure

is marked. As is known, salicylic acid has an antibacterial and keratolytic action and is a constituent of many cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.

• (a1) α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, wobei diese wiederum besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der C_10-18-Alkylcarbonsäuren gewählt werden,
• (a2) α-Hydroxyzuckersäuren, aliphatische α-Hydroxyfruchtsäuren,
• (a3) unsubstituierte aromatische α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren (z. B. Mandelsäure) bzw.
• (a4) substituierte aromatische α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren.

The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids preferably used are advantageously selected from the following classes of substances:

• (a1) α-hydroxy fatty acids, these in turn being selected particularly advantageously from the group of C _10-18 -alkylcarboxylic acids,
• (a2) α-hydroxy sugars, α-hydroxy aliphatic acids,
• (a3) unsubstituted aromatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg, mandelic acid) or
• (a4) substituted aromatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids.

• – α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, gemäss der Formel
  
  und/oder
• – α-Hydroxy-isocarbonsäuren, gemäss der Formel
  
  und/oder
• – α-Hydroxy-anteisocarbonsäuren, gemäss der Formel
  
  wobei n jeweils eine Zahl von 7 bis 31 darstellt.

The α-hydroxy fatty acids falling under point (a2) are particularly advantageously selected from the group

• - α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, according to the formula
  
  and or
• - α-hydroxy-isocarboxylic acids, according to the formula
  
  and or
• - α-Hydroxy-anteisocarbonsäuren, according to the formula
  
  where n represents a number from 7 to 31, respectively.

Advantageous is further, mixtures of such aliphatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, especially in the form of wool wax acid mixtures, in which the content of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids 20-30 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Aldonsäuren, z. B. Gluconsäure, Galactonsäure
• – Aldarsäuren, z. B. Glucarsäure, Galactarsäure (aber auch die Fruchtsäure Weinsäure, die ebenfalls unter die Definition der Aldarsäure fällt)
• – Uronsäuren, z. B. Glucuronsäure, Galacturonsäure
• – Glycerinsäure

The α-hydroxy sugars falling under (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of

• Aldonic acids, e.g. B. gluconic acid, galactonic acid
• Aldaric acids, e.g. As glucaric acid, galactaric acid (but also the fruit acid tartaric acid, which also falls under the definition of aldaric acid)
• - Uronic acids, eg. As glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid
• - Glyceric acid

The under (a3) falling aliphatic α-hydroxy fruit acids are particularly advantageously selected from the group of malic acid, Lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid.

Malic acid (hydroxysuccinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

Citric acid (2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

As is known, Citric acid is used to buffer cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, but also as a synergist for Antioxidants used in skin and hair cosmetics.

Tartaric acid (dihydroxysuccinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

Preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid (α-oxopropanoic acid). It is characterized by the following structure:

The Maximum amount of electrolytes to be used is ultimately depending on their solubility in the aqueous Phase. The teachings of the invention are fundamentally valid but no limits as a barrier, as it may be may even be beneficial, for whatever reason always, one about the solubility of an electrolyte additional amount of this electrolyte, for example as an undissolved solid, in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It is also advantageous, the preferred preparations further anti-irritative or to add antiinflammatory agents, in particular Batyl alcohol (α-octadecyl glyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenyl glyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecyl glyceryl ether), Bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is also advantageous, the preferred preparations usual Add antioxidants. Preferably as cheap antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, psi-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof ( eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg, buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthi oninsulfone, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to mu mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, Vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and benzylic resin, benzylic acid, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and derivatives thereof, Zinc and its derivatives (eg. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the preferably suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said active substances.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of Formulation, to choose.

The preferred formulations may also find use as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All active ingredients commonly used for deodorants or antiperspirants can be used to advantage, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example those disclosed in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 layer silicates described, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, Beidellit, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, also, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for incorporation in the preferred formulations. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenyl-biguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonyl, quaternary Ammoniumverbin ments, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those disclosed in the patent publications DE-37 40 186 . DE-39 38 140 . DE-42 04 321 . DE-42 29 707 . DE-43 09 372 . DE-44 11 664 . DE-195 41 967 . DE-195 43 695 . DE-195 43 696 . DE-195 47 160 . DE-196 02 108 . DE-196 02 110 . DE-196 02 111 . DE-196 31 003 . DE 196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737 . DE-42 37 081 . DE-43 24 219 . DE-44 29 467 . DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or drug combinations. Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

The Amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preferred formulations is preferably from 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The Water phase of the preferred cosmetic preparations may also Have gel character, in addition to an effective content of preferably used substances and usually solvents used, preferably water, even more organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, Sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. B. distarch phosphate), cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably Methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic Thickener, z. As aluminum silicates such as organic modified or unmodified hectorites, bentonites, or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, contained.

Especially Advantageously, the preferred formulations contain glycerol. The Total amount of glycerin in the preferred cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are advantageously from the range 0.01-30.0 Wt .-%, preferably be from 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight the preparations.

Further it may be advantageous to limit the preferred preparations to Add surface active agents, for example cationic emulsifiers, in particular quaternary surfactants.

quaternary Surfactants contain at least one N atom containing 4 alkyl or aryl groups covalently linked. This leads, independently from pH, to a positive charge. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, Alkylamidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The Preferably used cationic surfactants may further preferably be selected from the group of quaternary Ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, for example, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulphates, Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic character such as Amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

Also advantageous is cationic polymers (for example ^Jaguar® C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides] or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (for example quaternium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, from the company Bentone ™ 38 from the company Rheox is available, or stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan gel from Huls AG) use.

Preferred formulations may also advantageously contain oil thickening agents to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners are, for example, further solids, such. As hydrophobic silicas of the type Aerosil ^® , which are available from Degussa AG. Advantageous Aerosil grades are, for example, Aerosil ^® OX50, Aerosil ^® 130, Aerosil ^® 150, Aerosil ^® 200, Aerosil ^® 300, Aerosil ^® 380, Aerosil ^® MOX 80 Aerosil ^® MOX 170 Aerosil ^® COK 84, Aerosil ^® R 202, Aerosil ^® R 805, Aerosil ^® R 812, Aerosil ^® R 972, Aerosil ^® R 974 and / or Aerosil ^® R976.

Further are also so-called metal soaps (i.e., the salts of higher Fatty acids other than alkali salts), advantageous oil thickeners, such as aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

It is likewise advantageous to add amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (for example cocoamidopropylbetaine) and moisturizers (for example betaine) to the preferred formulations. Advantageously used amphoteric Surfactants include, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate, and sodium acylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for example, aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate, and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The Amount of surface or surface-active substances (a or more compounds) in the preferred formulations preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.

Preferred formulations may also contain active ingredients (one or more compounds) which are selected from the group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. As hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very low the vitamin B ₁ , the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) , in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on. It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit and Neocerit.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preferred formulations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Preparation. Examples: 1 2 three 4 Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% cetyl dimethicone - 2.00 - - Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 3.00 - - - Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.00 - - 1.40 PEG-40 sorbitan isostearate - - - 1.80 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate - - 3.00 - mineral oil 7.50 5.00 7.50 8.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00 3.00 4.00 - Caprylic / capric 4.00 4.00 - 1.50 Isohexadecan 4.00 4.00 3.00 - isopropyl - - 7.00 - isoeocosane - - - 6.50 cyclomethicone 5.00 5.00 - - Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum - - 1.00 1.50 Talcum micronized 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis 0.50 0.50 0.50 - glycerin 10.00 10.00 10.00 12.5 citric acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 - _MgSO4 1.20 1.00 0.70 - Vitamin E acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Na ₂ HCO ₃ + iodopropynyl butyl carbamate - - 0.1 0.15 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 - - Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 - - phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 - - Perfume qs qs qs qs water ad 100.00 5 6 7 8th Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate - - 4.00 2.00 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 3.00 0.75 2.00 1.25 PEG-40 sorbitan isostearate 2.25 0.75 - - mineral oil 8.50 8.00 3.00 5.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates - - - 3.00 Caprylic / capric - 1.00 - 4.00 Isohexadecan - 3.00 3.00 4.00 isopropyl - - 3.00 - isoeocosane 8.00 3.00 4.00 - Butylenglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate - 3.00 - 5.00 dicapryl carbonate 0.50 3.00 0.50 3.00 dimethicone 3.00 1.5 1.25 - cyclomethicone - 0.50 - 10.00 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 1.75 3.00 - 1.50 Talcum micronized 1.50 2.25 1.50 0.50 talc 2.50 0.50 1.50 0.50 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis - 0.50 0.50 0.50 glycerin 22.5 7.5 7.50 - butylene - - - 10.00 citric acid - - 0.05 0.05 _MgSO4 - - 1.20 - MgCl ₂ - 1.00 - - NaCl 1.25 - - 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Na ₂ HCO ₃ + iodopropynyl butylcarbamate 0.15 0.15 - - methylparaben - - - 0.30 Propylparaben - - 0.30 - Isobutylparaben - - 0.30 - phenoxyethanol - - 0.50 - Perfume - - 0.30 0.30 ethanol - - - 7.50 water ad 100.00 9 10 11 12 Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate - - 3.50 3.00 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.50 1.50 1.50 2.00 PEG-40 sorbitan isostearate 1.70 1.70 - - mineral oil 6.50 11,50 10.50 5.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates - - 3.00 3.00 Caprylic / capric - 1.00 2.00 4.00 Isohexadecan - - - 4.00 isoeocosane 12.50 7.00 4.00 - Butylenglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate - - - 5.00 dicapryl carbonate - - - 3.00 dimethicone - - 1.25 - cyclomethicone - 0.50 - 5.00 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 1.75 1.75 - - Talcum micronized 0.50 0.50 1.50 0.50 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis - 0.50 0.50 0.50 glycerin 12.5 12.5 7.50 sorbitol - - - 10.00 citric acid - - 0.05 0.05 _MgSO4 - - 1.20 - NaCl - - - 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Na ₂ HCO ₃ + iodopropynyl butyl carbamate 0.15 0.15 - - methylparaben - - - 0.30 Propylparaben - - 0.30 0.30 Butylparaben - - - 0.30 Isobutylparaben - - 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol - - 0.50 0.50 Perfume - - 0.30 0.30 water ad 100.00 13 14 15 16 Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% Wt .-% cetyl dimethicone 3.00 1.50 - - PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate - - 1.50 4.50 mineral oil 5.00 12,00 7.50 - C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00 - 4.00 - Caprylic / Caprinsäuetriglyceride 4.00 4.00 - - Isohexadecan 4.00 - 3.00 3.00 isopropyl - 4.00 - 7.00 isoeocosane - 3.00 - 12,00 dicaprylyl - 1.00 12,00 1.50 dimethicone - 2.00 - - cyclomethicone 5.00 - 1.50 3.00 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum - - 1.00 1.00 Talcum micronized 0.50 1.50 5.00 0.50 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 glycerin 10.00 10.00 10.00 butylene - 10.00 - - citric acid 0.05 0.15 0.05 0.05 _MgSO4 - - 0.70 0.70 MgCl ₂ 1.00 - - - NaCl - 1.00 - - Vitamin E acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Na ₂ HCO ₃ + iodopropynyl butyl carbamate - - 0.10 - methylparaben 0.30 0.20 - 0.20 Propylparaben 0.30 0.15 - 0.15 phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.75 - 0.75 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 ethanol - - - 3.00 water ad 100.00

A Another preferred embodiment of the cosmetic fluid The dispensing device is a gel-like detergent Preparation comprising 1,2-alkanediol (s) and one or more polyacrylate thickeners.

Conventional cleansing gels prepared by the prior art have a number of shortcomings:
So that the preparation is mild and the skin is not too heavily degreased, only selected surfactants may be incorporated in a low concentration in the preparation. However, such preparations can only be foamed inadequately. The foam is not particularly fine-pored and creamy and falls quickly back together. Also, the viscosity of low surfactant formulations can not be increased conventionally by the addition of salts.

Around the viscosity of low surfactant formulations To increase, the formulation polymers must be thickener (eg Carbopols). Such thickeners hinder but the foaming of the preparation.

The Combination of conventional surfactants and polymeric thickeners usually leads to clouding of the preparation. Optical effects, for example the addition of abrasives or glitter substances, are not sufficiently effective.

Important for a simple application of the product is the Aufschäumverhalten. In addition, the product should have a gel-like consistency have, d. H. it should not flow too easily. The higher the viscosity is the less fluid is the product. Ideally, the product should be water mix lightly and thereby lather up easily. If If the product is too viscous, foaming with water is more difficult because it does not mix well with water. One ideal product would be as thin as possible, but meadow still had a certain plasticity So a flow limit.

It was therefore an aspect of mild cleansing gels with great foam power and to develop high transparency with a dispenser can be dosed. In addition, a special long-term storage stability should be be achieved. Surprisingly, it was found that the Addition of 1,2-alkanediols to the cleaning products in particular the foaming power and the transparency of the preparation significantly improved.

When The 1,2-hexanediol has been found to be particularly suitable.

Therefore it was surprising for the expert and unpredictable that a cosmetic gel-like wash-active Preparation containing one or more anionic surfactants, if desired other anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic Surfactants, one or more gel-forming acrylate thickener chosen from the group of crosslinked alkali-swellable acrylate copolymers, one or more 1,2-alkanediols having 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms a particularly pronounced foaming power of Preparation possible. Beyond that Achieved a good cleaning performance and good skin feel. In addition, it was surprisingly found that with the addition of alkanediols it is possible to cleanse gels with a flow limit to produce, but a low viscosity than before. Furthermore, it is preferred if the alkanediol 1,2-hexanediol is. It is particularly preferred if more than 0.3 Wt .-%, most preferably more than 0.6 wt .-%, very exceptional preferably more than 0.8 wt .-% alkanediol are included. Especially special it is preferred if less than 3 wt .-% alkanediol are. It is also particularly preferred if the preparation has a Transmission of 50% to 100% at a wavelength of 420 nm.

Such Products have a very good long-term stability. This guarantees over the entire period of use a consistent product quality and product performance. Due to good foam and very good cleaning performance of the product is the application of an additional body cleansing product no longer necessary. Both objectively comprehensible as also subjectively noticeable backfat generated a well-groomed skin feeling. This allows people with normal skin on additional moisturizing Toiletries, their use after shower and bath a lot is common to renounce.

Farther it is particularly preferred if the preparation has a viscosity of 1500-10000 mPas. Such emulsion-shaped Preparations have a very attractive visual appearance for the user. In addition to the care and / or cleaning properties represents the handling of a cosmetic product for very important point to the consumer. The one described here Formulation has very good application properties. It is easy to remove and dose. In addition is it spreads well on the skin and settles after the Simply rinse off the application.

The Dispensing device also includes a tube, a pump dispenser or a bottle containing the cosmetic fluid or the preparation. It is particularly preferred if the packaging container is transparent is. Another aspect includes a substrate soaked with a preparation as well as the use of 1,2-alkanediols having 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms for the improvement the foaming power of surfactant-containing gel-like Wash-active preparations with gel-forming acrylate thickeners.

From It is also advantageous if the preferred preparation has a flow limit of 0.5-20 Pa preferably has 1-6 Pa.

When Flow limit is considered the critical shear stress of the flow curve. It can be determined according to the invention as follows: Measured the flow curve is on a shear stress controlled rheometer at 25 ° C +/- 1 ° C with 25 mm plate / plate Geometry at a gap between 0.8 mm and 1.2 mm, while sparing structure is filled. It becomes a suitable constant shear stress ramp given and before the test a corresponding Strukturerholungszeit complied with and the critical shear stress in the maximum of the flow curve specified.

Advantageously, the preparations are designed to have a tan delta of 0.05-0.6, preferably 0.1-0.5.

According to the invention, tan delta is understood to mean the quotient of the loss modulus and the storage modulus. The tan delta is determined as follows:
The loss and storage modulus are measured by a dynamic frequency test on a shear stress controlled rheometer at 40 ° C +/- 1 ° C with 25 mm plate / plate geometry at a gap between 0.8 mm and 1.2 mm, filling the structure gently. According to the prior art, the frequency test is carried out with a corresponding structure recovery time before the test and the tan delta in the frequency range between 0.05 rad / s and 3.0 rad / s is specified, preferably between 0.08 rad / s and 1, 0 rad / s.

The Flow limit can be increased by increasing the gel former concentration be raised.

The preferred transmission was with the Agilent 8453 device Diode array spectrometer determined at a layer thickness of 1 cm. The measurement was in a range of 190 to 1100 nm at intervals of 1 nm and an integration time of 0.5 seconds at room temperature carried out. Preferably, the transmission is of the preferred formulation from 50% to 100% at 420 nm wavelength.

Also it is particularly advantageous if the cleaning gel has a pH from pH 6 to pH 8.

Especially preferred embodiments of the cosmetic fluid are characterized in that the preparation one or more Preservatives in a concentration of 0.1 to 2.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageous preservatives are, for example, formaldehyde donors (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is obtainable for example under the trade name Glydant ^™ from the Fa. Lonza), Iodopropylbutylcarbamate (z. B. under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S by the company Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. The preservative system according to the invention also advantageously also comprises preserving aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. This list of advantageous preservatives should by no means be limiting. Rather, all approved for cosmetics or food preservatives are advantageous in the context of the present invention.

Especially Preference is given to the use of parabens and phenoxyethanol as a preservative.

Especially It is advantageous if the preferred cleaning gel one or several complexing agents in a total concentration of 0.1 to 2.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation, contains.

Of the or the complexing agents may be advantageous from the group the usual compounds are chosen, wherein preferably at least one substance selected from the group consisting of Tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and their anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their Anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions).

It is particularly preferred to use hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid and in particular the sodium salt of hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid (Na ₃ HEDTA) as complexing agent.

It is particularly advantageous when the preferred cleaning gel a or several skin moisturizers at a concentration of 0.5 up to 10% by weight and preferably in a concentration of 2.0 to 6.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

Particularly advantageous skin moisturizers are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. For example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan are particularly advantageous and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel ^® 1000 of the company SOLABIA SA is available.

Especially Preference is given to the use of glycerol as skin moisturizer.

It is particularly advantageous when the preferred cleansing gel Abrasiva (eg peeling particles made of polyethylene), glitter fabrics, effect materials, Color streaks, gas bubbles (especially air bubbles), pearlescent pigments, Contains mica, oil and / or emulsion droplets.

Also it is advantageous if the preferred cleaning gel one or contains several dyes. It can in particular all known, water-soluble and for cosmetics authorized dyes are added to the preparation.

Of course it is advantageous to the preferred cleaning gel more cosmetic Add active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. The following list gives a small selection of further advantageous additives, but in no way limit the preparation to these compounds should.

The aqueous phase of the preferred cleaning gels may advantageously conventional cosmetic adjuvants, such as alcohols, in particular those having a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, Diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably Propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, pearlescent agents, Antidandruff active ingredients, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients.

Especially Advantageous preparations are also obtained when as an additive or agents used antioxidants.

Further advantageous active ingredients are natural agents and / or their derivatives, such as. Alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, Coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine and / or ss-alanine and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecenedioic acid), licochalcone A, ascorbic acid and their derivatives vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin A and its Derivatives, gamma-oryzanol, panthenol and / or niacinamide.

One Another particularly advantageous active ingredient, for example Polidocanol.

The Amount of active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Preferably is the cosmetic fluid in a tube, a pump dispenser or stored in a bottle and used out of it. such Packaging containers are preferably transparent.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the preparation of the cosmetic fluid without restricting it. The information always refers to wt .-%, unless otherwise stated. DMDM hydantoin 0.30 0.30 0.30 - 0.30 1,2-hexanediol 0.80 2.00 0.60 1.00 1.50 methylparaben - - - 0.40 - Propylparaben - - - 0.20 - phenoxyethanol - - - 0.60 - polyethylenes - - - - 0.2 citric acid qs qs qs qs qs NaOH qs qs qs qs qs Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.20 1.00 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Example no. 6 7 8th 9 10 sodium myreth sulfate 5 6 4 2.5 5 decyl glucoside 2.5 - three 0.7 2.5 , sodium 6.5 8th three - 6.5 cocamidopropyl - - - 3.3 - Acrylates copolymer 2.0 2.2 3.0 2.4 2.0 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.5 - - 0.5 - PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric triglycerides - 1.0 - 0.5 0.75 PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides - - 0.5 - - PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 0.4 0.4 - - 0.4 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1.0 - 0.5 - 1.0 Styrene / acrylate copolymer - - 0.5 - - diammonium citrate 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 DMDM hydantoin 0.3 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 1,2-hexanediol 0.80 2.00 1.00 0.60 1.50 methylparaben - - - 0.4 - Propylparaben - - - 0.2 - phenoxyethanol - - - 0.6 - polyethylenes 2.0 - - 2.0 - citric acid qs qs qs qs qs NaOH qs qs qs qs qs Perfume 1.00 1.30 1.00 1.20 1.20 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 11 12 13 14 15 Sodium myrethsulfate 2% 4% 3% 5% 2% decyl glucoside 2% 2% 4% 1% 4% cocoamidopropyl - 2% - 1% 1% Carbopol 1382 0.3% 0.6% 0.5% 1% - Acrylates copolymer 0.3% 0.5% 0.2% 0.2% 1% sodium hydroxide 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% glycerin 5% 10% 5% 10% - Well ₃ HEDTA 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 1,2-hexanediol 0.80 2.00 0.60 1.00 1.50 phenoxyethanol 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% parabens 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% Perfume qs qs qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 16 17 18 19 20 Sodium laureth sulfate 2% 2% 7% 7% - Methyl cocoyl taurate 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 6% Carbopol 980 1.2% 1.2% 1.2% 0.5% 0.6% sodium hydroxide 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% glycerin 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% - 2.0% 1,2-hexanediol 0.80 2.00 0.60 1.00 1.50 Xanthan gum 0.25% 0.1% 0.25% - - phenoxyethanol 0.6% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% parabens 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% Perfume qs qs qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

In a further preferred embodiment of the dispensing device with a cosmetic fluid, the cosmetic fluid is a low lipid dermatological oil-in-water emulsion containing of fatty acids.

It should products with reduced stickiness or greasiness to provide. Products in the field Nursing cosmetics, decorative cosmetics and pharmacological Galenics should be equally distinguished from the disadvantages of the state of the art Technology to be freed.

Farther become cosmetic bases for cosmetic preparations developed, which are characterized by good skin compatibility.

Known cosmetic preparations are so-called "stearate emulsions", ie those in which stearic acid and / or palmitic acid or alkali metal salts of stearic acid and / or palmitic acid are effective as an emulsifier. These preparations can advantageously present as O / W emulsions and characterized by good skin feeling. The disadvantage, however, is that fatty acids tend to crystallize in a pH range of 3.5-8.0, whereby the pleasant skin feeling as well as the external one Appearance of a corresponding preparation severely impaired become.

It products with the widest possible variety of applications to provide. For example, basics should be for preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, facial and personal care preparations, but also pronounced be created medical-pharmaceutical dosage forms, for example, preparations for acne and other skin conditions.

• (I) 1–5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, einer oder mehrerer neutralisierten bzw. teilneutralisierten C₁₄-C₃₂-Fettsäuren
• (II) wobei Natriumhydroxid und/oder Kaliumhydroxid als neutralisierende Base gewählt werden, neutralisiert bzw. teilneutralisiert einem pH-Bereich der Zubereitungen von 6,0–8,0 entsprechend,
• (III) wobei der Gehalt an alkylierten Ammoniumbasen geringer als 0,01 Gew.-% gewählt wird
• (IV) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, eines oder mehrerer Mono- und/oder Diester von Glycerol und/oder von Propylenglycol und/oder von Glykol,
• (V) 0,5 bis zu 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, einer oder mehrere Fettalkohole, gewählt aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• (VI) 1 bis zu 9 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, einer Lipidphase, zusammengesetzt aus
• (a) einem oder mehreren Lipiden mit einem Schmelzpunkt von unterhalb 30°C
• (b) einem oder mehreren Lipiden mit einem Schmelzpunkt von oberhalb 30°C
• (VII) wobei das Verhältnis aus (a) und (b) im Bereich von 2:1 bis 6:1 liegt.
• (VIII) wobei Lipide gemäss (a) 0–5% Silikonöl umfassen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen
• (IX) wobei das Verhältnis Lipide (a): Silikonöle (VIII) vorzugsweise im Bereich von 5:1 bis 1:2 liegt, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen.

It has been found that cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of an O / W Emul containing sion

• (I) 1-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more neutralized or partially neutralized C ₁₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acids
• (II) wherein sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide are chosen as the neutralizing base, neutralized or partially neutralized corresponding to a pH range of the preparations of 6.0-8.0,
• (III) wherein the content of alkylated ammonium bases is less than 0.01 wt .-% is selected
• (IV) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and / or of propylene glycol and / or of glycol,
• (V) 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms,
• (VI) 1 up to 9 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, a lipid phase, composed of
• (a) one or more lipids having a melting point below 30 ° C
• (b) one or more lipids having a melting point above 30 ° C
• (VII) wherein the ratio of (a) and (b) ranges from 2: 1 to 6: 1.
• (VIII) wherein lipids according to (a) 0-5% silicone oil, based on the total weight of the preparations
• (IX) wherein the ratio lipids (a): silicone oils (VIII) is preferably in the range of 5: 1 to 1: 2, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

• – besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,
• – besser die Hautglättung fördern,
• – sich durch besser Pflegewirkung auszeihhen,
• – besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und medizinisch-dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen,
• – höhere Stabilität gegenüber physikalischer Zersetzung, insbesondere Phasentrennung aufweisen,
• – höhere Stabilität gegenüber der Kristallisation der eingesetzten Fettsäuren aufweisen,
• – sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden,
• – sich durch besseres Hautgefühl und durch höhere kosmetische Eleganz auszeichnen würden
• – und besser dosierbar sind als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik. Vorzugsweise lassen sich sehr gute physikochemische Stabilitäten erzielen, ohne dass es nach einer längeren Lagerzeit insbesondere auch bei hohen Temperaturen zu Instabilitäten kommt (z. B. 6 Monate bei 40°C, 2 Monate bei 50°C, 1 Woche bei 70°C). Hierdurch ist es möglich, Rezepturen mit überdurchschnittlich guter Hautpflege und einer herausragenden, ausgewogenen Sensorik herzustellen. Diese zeichnet sich insbesondere durch ein gutes Einzugsvermögen und durch einen auffällig geringen Rückstand aus, obwohl das Produkt während des Verteilen eine geschmeidige Reichhaltigkeit vermittelt.

It was therefore not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preferred preparations

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - better promote skin smoothing,
• - indulge in better care,
• - better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological agents,
• Have higher stability to physical decomposition, in particular phase separation,
• Have higher stability against the crystallization of the fatty acids used,
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility,
• - would be characterized by better skin feel and higher cosmetic elegance
• - And are better dosed than the preparations of the prior art. Preferably, very good physicochemical stabilities can be achieved without causing instabilities after prolonged storage, especially at high temperatures (eg 6 months at 40 ° C., 2 months at 50 ° C., 1 week at 70 ° C.) , This makes it possible to produce formulations with above-average skin care and outstanding, well-balanced sensor technology. This is characterized in particular by a good intake capacity and by a conspicuously low residue, although the product gives a supple richness during distribution.

The preferred formulations are both flowable and Creamy formable, have very good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of stickiness, and have a very good skin compatibility as well as skin care performance.

preferred Fatty acids are stearic acid and / or palmitic acid (Stearin).

Advantageous embodiments relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing
(IV) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, selected from the group of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate,

in the The scope of the present disclosure is used as a generic term for Fats, oils, waxes and the like are sometimes used the term "lipids" as the expert is quite familiar. Also, the Terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" synonymous applied.

The fatty alcohol (s) are advantageously selected from the group of monohydric alcohols having 12-30 carbon atoms in straight chains, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol, C ₁₂ H ₂₅ OH), tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol, C ₁₄ H ₂₉ OH), hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol, C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH), octadecanol (stearyl alcohol, C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH), oleyl alcohol, (C ₁₈ H ₃₅ OH), eicosyl alcohol (C ₂₀ H ₃₉ OH), docosanyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₃ OH), tetrakosanyl alcohol (camaubyl alcohol, C ₂₄ H ₄₉ OH), hexakosanyl alcohol (ceryl alcohol, C ₂₆ H ₅₃ 0H), tri-acyl alcohol (myricyl alcohol, C ₃₀ H ₆₁ OH).

It is preferred to choose the proportion of the silicone oils of the preparations according to the invention from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to in the present disclosure as "silicone oils". Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2–200.000 annehmen. Besonders vorteilhaft einzusetzende cyclische Silicone werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert, wie folgt

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, dass ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Particularly advantageous linear silicones having a plurality of siloxy units are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2 to 200,000. Particularly advantageous cyclic silicones are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageous Phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyidimethicone, Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, Behenoxydimethicone are advantageous in the context of the present invention to use.

Advantageous are also mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

Other oil components For example, you can choose from the group the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms as well from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then are advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase may advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the novel W / O emulsions has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or cetylstearylethylhexanoate or consists entirely of this.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous if necessary be waxes, for example, cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component to use the oil phase.

Advantageous oil components are also, for example, those who are elected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipids as single substances or in mixture with each other are advantageous. The concerned Interfacial tensions against water are in the last Column indicated. However, it is also advantageous to mix mixtures of higher and low polarity and the like.

Further the oil phase can be chosen advantageously from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of one chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides For example, they can be chosen advantageously from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural Ole, z. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, Coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Advantageous to use lipids having a melting point of above 30 ° C. can be beneficial from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes become. According to the invention, for example, candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, Rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, Spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (Earthwax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous lipids with a melting point of above 30 ° C are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syn crowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid _triglyceride ) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _{18- 36} fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats , such as Hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fatty and / or wax components mentioned, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane. Preferably, the lipids having a melting point above 30 ° C. may be present both individually and in admixture.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, cetylstearylethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, cetearyl ethylhexanoates, mixtures of Cetylstearylethylhexaroat and isopropyl myristate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethythexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.

From The hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, Squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene advantageous to be used in the sense of the present invention.

• – Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen
• – wässrige ethanolische Lösungen
• – natürliche Ole und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Ole und/oder synthetische Ole;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobuylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

As basic components of the preferred preparations can be used:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - aqueous ethanolic solutions
• Natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.

Especially are mixtures of the abovementioned solvents used.

The aqueous phase of the preparations contains optionally advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, Glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethyl glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which are advantageous can be selected from the group silicon dioxide, Aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the Group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopols of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each alone or in combination.

preferred Emulsions, eg. B. in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sunscreen cream or a sunscreen milk, are advantageous and contain z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, and Water and one or more emulsifiers, as they usually do be used for such a type of formulation.

It Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that demanding Cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. These include, for example Bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, Stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.

mutatis Mutandis are subject to appropriate formulation requirements medical preparations.

medical topical compositions usually contain one or more Medicines in effective concentration. For simplicity's sake for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical Application and corresponding products to the statutory provisions the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and drug law).

Corresponding can the present cosmetic or topical dermatological Compositions, depending on their structure, for example, used be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen, Nourishing cream, day or night cream, etc. It is optional possible and advantageous, the present compositions as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is also beneficial from the properties in the form of decorative Cosmetics (make-up formulations).

Cheap are also such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in the form of a sunscreen. Preferably contain these in addition to the preferred active ingredient in addition at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

It but is also beneficial to such cosmetic and dermatological Preparing preparations whose main purpose not the protection from the sun is light, but still a salary Contains UV protection substances. For example, in day creams usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances.

Advantageous the present preparations may contain substances absorb the UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount the filter substances z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z. B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden) campher,
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethyfamino)-benzoesäure (2 ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi (2-ethyl-hexyl)ester;
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances z. To name, for example:

• - 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, for. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethyl-hexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z. B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze,
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl) sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, eg. As sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The List of said UVB filters, which are preferably used Of course, this should not be limiting be.

It may also be advantageous in the present preparations UVA filter commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are included. For such filter substances they are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. It can the same quantities of UVA filter substances are used, which for UVB filter substances.

The present cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations may also contain inorganic pigments, commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, Silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as Modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Especially preferred are pigments based on titanium dioxide. It can the quantities mentioned for the above combinations be used.

The preferred cosmetic and dermatological preparations contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as is customary be used in such preparations, for. B. antioxidants, Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the have coloring effect, thickener, surface-active Substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is advantageous, the present preparations further anti-irritative or to add antiinflammatory agents, in particular Batyl alcohol (alpha-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (alpha-9-octa-decenylglyceryl ether), Chimyl alcohol (alpha-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or Panthenol.

It is also advantageous, the present preparations usual Add antioxidants. Preferably as cheap antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D- Camosin, L-camosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, psi-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof ( eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, prepyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg, buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buth ioninsulfone, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to umol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), alpha hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and benzylic benzoate, rutinic acid, and benzylic acid their derivatives, alpha-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their deri vate, zinc and its derivatives (eg. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said active substances.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of Formulation, to choose.

It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, the present preparations as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological preparations against hyperpigmentation of the skin (eg as so-called skin whitening products) to use. It can these preparations the usual Active ingredients are incorporated for these purposes, eg. B. on the basis of hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives.

The present preparations may also find use as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All active substances which are common for deodorants or antiperspirants can be used to advantage, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example those disclosed in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 layer silicates described, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, Beidellit, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, also, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for incorporation in the preferred formulations. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenyl-biguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trchlorocarbanilide, quaternary Ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those disclosed in the patent publications DE-37 40 186 . DE-39 38 140 . DE-42 04 321 . DE-42 29 707 . DE-43 09 372 . DE-4411 664 . DE-195 41 967 . DE-195 43 695 . DE-195 43 696 . DE-195 47 160 . DE 196 02 108 . DE-196 02 110 . DE-19602 111 . DE-196 31 003 . DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737 . DE-42 37 081 . DE-43 24 219 . DE-44 29 467 . DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or drug combinations. Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

The Amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the present preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0520 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations may also have gel character, in addition to egg nem effective content of the substances preferably used and solvents commonly used for it, bvorzugt water, even more organic thickeners, eg. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (eg, distarch phosphate), cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. For example, aluminum silicates such as organically modified or unmodified hectorites, bentonites, or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%.

Further it may be advantageous to limit the scope of the present preparations to or add surfactants, for example cationic emulsifiers, in particular quaternary surfactants.

quaternary Surfactants contain at least one N atom containing 4 alkyl or aryl groups covalently linked. This leads, independently from pH, to a positive charge. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, Alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamido-propylhydroxysulfaine. The Cationic surfactants used according to the invention can further preferably selected from the group of quaternary Ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, for example, for example Cytyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammoniumchloride or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulphates, Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and cationic compounds such as amine oxides, for example, alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

Advantageous is also cationic polymers (eg Jaguar C 162 [hydroxypropyl Guar Hydrxypropyltrimonium Chloride] or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (For example, quaternium-18-hectorite, which, for example, under the trade name Bentone 38 is available from Rheox, or stearalkonium Hectorite, which z. B. under the trade name Softisan gel available from Hüls AG).

The preferred formulations may also advantageously contain oil thickening agents to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners are, for example, further solids, such. As hydrophobic silicas of the type Aerosil ^® , which are available from Degussa AG. Advantageous Aerosil grades are, for example, Aerosil ^® OX50, Aerosil ^® 130, Aerosil ^® 150, Aerosil ^® 200, Aerosil ^® 300, Aerosil ^® 380, Aerosil ^® MOX 80, Aersil ^® M OX 170, Aerosil ^® COK 84, Aerosil ^® E 202 , Aerosil ^® R 805, Aerosil ^® R 812, Aerosil ^® R 972, Aerosil ^® R 974 and / or Aerosil ^® R976.

Further are also so-called metal soaps (i.e., the salts of higher Fatty acids other than alkali salts), advantageous oil thickeners, such as aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

Also is advantageous, the present preparations amphoteric or zwitterionic Surfactants (eg cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizers (eg betaine) add. Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants are, for example Acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, Disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl lamophopropionate, N-alkyl amino acids, for example, aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, Sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The Amount of surface or surface-active substances (a or more compounds) in the preparations preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 Wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.

Preferred formulations may also contain active ingredients (one or more compounds) which are selected from the group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. As hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very low the vitamin B ₁ , the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) , in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on. It is also advantageous, the active ingredients from the group derrückfettenden Substan zen, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit and Neocerit.

The Amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preferred formulations is preferably from 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present cosmetic fluids. Example 1 (O / W cream): Wt .-% stearic acid 3.00 cetyl alcohol 2.50 glyceryl stearate 1.00 octyldodecanol 3.00 cyclomethicone 1.00 myristate 2.00 glycerin 5.00 Carbomer 0.10 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-8.0 Example 2 (O / W Lotion): Wt .-% stearic acid 2.00 Myristylalcohol 0.50 Cetylstearylalcohol 0.50 Glycol 0.25 glyceryl stearate 0.75 Cetylpaimitat 0.70 octyl palmitate 4.20 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.10 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.20 potassium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5-7.5 Example 3 (O / W Lotion): Wt .-% stearic acid 2.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 1.50 glyceryl stearate 1.00 Caprylic / Caprinsauretriglyceride 1.00 Cetylstearylethylhexanoat 1.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 Hydrogenated cocoglyceride 2.00 dimethicone 2.00 xanthan gum 0.10 magnesium silicate 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservative, qs sodium hydroxide qs Dyes etc. qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0-8.0 Example 4 (O / W Emulsion Makeup): Wt .-% stearic acid 1.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 Glycol 0.50 glyceryl stearate 0.25 cetearyl 2.00 isopropyl palmitate 1.00 dimethicone 0.60 cetyl palmitate 0.70 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 mica 1.00 magnesium silicate 1.00 iron oxide 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00 Vitamin A palmitate 12:10 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-8.0 Example 5 (O / W cream): Wt .-% stearic acid 4:00 cetyl alcohol 2.50 glyceryl 1.00 octyldodecanol 3.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glyceride 2.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 xanthan gum 0.10 Carbomer 0.10 retinyl palmitate 0.20 glycerin 3.00 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservative, dyes qs potassium hydroxide qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0-8.0 Example 6 (O / W Lotion): Wt .-% stearic acid 2.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 2.00 Glycol 0.30 glyceryl stearate 0.30 Caprylic / capric 1.00 Cetylstearylethylhexanoat 1.00 dimethicone 4.00 myristate 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservative, Dyes etc. qs sodium hydroxide qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5 Example 7 (sunscreen cream): Wt .-% stearic acid 3.50 cetyl alcohol 1.50 Myristylaikohol 1.00 glyceryl 1.00 octyldodecanol 1.00 C _12-13 -acytobenzoates 2.00 paraffin oil 0.50 dimethicone 1.00 cetyl palmitate 0.80 xanthan gum 0.10 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00 octyl 4.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00 octyl salicylate 3.00 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ PH ₂ EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservative, Dyes, etc. qs potassium hydroxide q. s water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5-8.0

In a further embodiment of the invention Dispensing device containing a cosmetic fluid this is a cosmetic fluid containing a pearl extract.

These Cosmetic fluids are cosmetic preparations containing one Active substance complex A consisting of a pearl extract and at least another compound selected from i) at least a vitamin and / or at least one vitamin precursor and / or a derivative of the vitamins and / or vitamin precursors (K), ii) at least a plant extract (L), iii) at least one further protein and / or at least one further protein hydrolyzate (P) and iv) at least one silicone compound (S).

Of the preferably used active ingredient complex A improves significantly synergistically the essential internal and external Structural features and strength as well as elasticity of human hair and the skin. Under keratinic fibers According to the invention, furs, wool, feathers and in particular understood human hair.

beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic Calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be Easily gain from cultivated mussels. The cultivation The mussels can be used both in fresh water and in sea water respectively. This can affect the ingredients of the beads. According to the invention, preference is given to a pearl extract which originated in marine or saltwater clams. The Pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), Conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Furthermore, in pearls are still magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic Silicon compounds and phosphates included.

To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutaxoic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred Embodiment, it may be advantageous if the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine. Furthermore, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending on the choice of extractant, a more or less large proportion of minerals and trace elements in the extract is found again. A preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls. Examples of preferred pearl extracts are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions is one of those previously described Pearl extracts in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20% by weight contain. Preferably, amounts of the extract are from 0.01 up to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.

A first class of substance, which is mandatory in the preferred synergistic Active ingredient combination (A) is included, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K).

there are preferably such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors preferably, the groups usually A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. For example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate may be considered as the vitamin A component.

The preferably used preparations contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungs gemäss bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäss verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist. Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäss einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents used in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the preferably Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially alpha-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its Derivatives, including in particular the esters, such as acetate, nicotinate, the phosphate and succinate are in the preferably used Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers The funds used contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A second class of substance, which alternative to the vitamins and / or Vitamin precursors (K) mandatory in the preferred synergistic Active substance combination (A) is contained, are plant extracts (L).

Usually These extracts are biergestellt by extraction of the entire plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

With regard to the preferably usable plant extracts, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are disclosed in US Pat Page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidance on the Ingredient Declaration of Cosmetic Products, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege und Waschmittel e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt , starting table are listed. According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, Lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam quill, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are preferred.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Me lone, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Hauhechel, Meristem, Ginseng and ginger root.

All especially suitable for the preferred use are the Extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts may preferably be in both pure and can also be used in diluted form. Unless they are in diluted form used, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction. Furthermore, it may be preferred in the preferred compositions mixtures from several, especially from two, different plant extracts use.

When third class of substances, which alternative to the vitamins, vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) and the plant extracts (L) mandatory in the synergistic combination of active substances (A) according to the invention contained are other protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (P).

protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. Under The term protein hydrolysates are used according to the invention also total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their Derivatives and mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. For example, the latter are Polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further Examples of compounds according to the invention can be used are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of preferably usable protein hydrolysates is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, is preferred the molecular weight 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20000 daltons.

Preferably Both protein and protein hydrolysates can be plant-based animal or marine or synthetic origin become.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold. According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosog ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of protein hydrolysates as such is preferred in their place, if appropriate, otherwise obtained amino acid mixtures be used. Also possible is the use of Derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such For example, products are known under the names Lamepon (Cognis), Lexein (Inolex), Crolastin (Croda) or Crotein (Croda) distributed.

Of course all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

Preferably it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P) use.

The Protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01 wt .-% up to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% up to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.05 wt .-% to to 5 wt .-% contained.

• – natives Sericin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Sericin, wie beispielsweise Handelsprodukte mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, oder Hydrolyzed Silk,
• – eine Mischung aus den Aminosäuren Serin, Aspartat und Glycin und/oder deren Methyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Serin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 20 bis 60 Gew.-%, das Aspartat und/oder dessen Derivate zu 10–40 Gew.-% und das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 5 bis 30 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Massgabe, dass sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – natives, in eine lösliche Form überführtes Fibroin, hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Fibroin, besonders teilhydrolisiertes Fibroin, welches als Hauptbestandteil die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-AlaGIy enthält,
• – die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• – eine Mischung der Aminosäuren Glycin, Alanin und Tyrosin und/oder deren Methyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate in Mengen von 20–60 Gew.-%, das Alanin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 10–40 Gew.-% und das Tyrosin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 0 bis 25 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Massgabe, dass sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen, sowie deren Mischungen.

A particularly preferred protein (P) in drug complex A is silk protein. The term silk protein includes the following proteins and protein derivatives:

• - native sericin,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
• - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt .-%, the aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt .-% and the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt .-% are included, with the proviso in that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• Native fibroin converted into a soluble form, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, particularly partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-AlaGIy,
• The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as, for example, hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the glycine and / or or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt .-%, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt .-% and the tyrosine and its derivatives are contained in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .-%, with the Provision that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100 wt .-%, and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferred that one of the two silk proteins, fibroin and / or sericin in the native or at most soluble made form is used.

Preferably It is also possible to have a mixture of several silk proteins use.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preferred are such protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloronopropyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,866,074 and 4,200,299 are known "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silicon, aminoacids, hydroxyproypltrimonium hydrolyzed silica, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silica. As typical examples of the preferred anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in U.S. Pat "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) cited above and commercially available products: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed SiIk or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed SiIk. Finally, as typical examples of the preferably usable derivatives of sericin and fibroin, the products available under the INCI names may be mentioned: ethyl ester of hydrolyzed silica and hydrolyzed silicone PG-propyl methylsilanediol. Also preferably usable, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed SiIk.

In the preferably used agents is a silk protein and / or its derivative in amounts of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on contain the entire remedy. Amounts of from 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

The fourth class of substances which is included as an alternative to the vitamins, vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) and the plant extracts (L) and the other proteins (P) in the inventive synergistic active ingredient combination (A), the silicone oils (S). Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. First of all, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (Si). Dimethiconols are the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _chi - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexame ethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ - C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the Dimeticone are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the preferred dimethiconols are used as an emulsion, then is the droplet size of the emulsified Particles preferably 0.01 .mu.m to 10000 .mu.m, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. Therefore, here is branched dimethiconols to understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. Of the Degree of branching is determined by the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional Siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. Preferably both low branched and hyperbranched Dimethiconole whole particularly preferred.

When Examples of such products are the following commercial products called: Botanisil NU-15OM (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abu OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all of the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corpo ration), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-I, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, WackerBelsil DM 60081 VP (all previously mentioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

If the dimethiconols (S1) are contained in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

However, the use of dimethiconols (S1) in the active substance composition (2) is particularly preferred. This preferably contains the dimethiconols (S1) in amounts of at least 25% by weight, especially before zugt in amounts of 40 wt .-%, most preferably in amounts of at least 70 wt .-%. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the dimethiconols (S1) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred. The preferred dimethicones may be linear or branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl, benzyl, halocarbyl, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, as well as sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the preferred dimethicones are used as an emulsion, then is the droplet size of the emulsified Particles preferably 0.01 .mu.m to 10000 .mu.m, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very be especially preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri and tetrafunctional siloxanes. Preferably, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones may be very particularly preferred.

If the dimethicones (S2) are contained in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Especially However, the use of dimethicones (S2) in the active ingredient composition (2) is preferred. This contains the Dimthicone (S2) preferably in quantities of at least 25% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 40% by weight, most preferably in amounts of at least 70% by weight. In a most preferred embodiment the dimethicones (S2) as the only component of the active ingredient composition (2) can be used.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃₎ -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (Sirpe-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{1 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cps measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of Dimethiconcopolyole can also be prepared directly by a Emulsi onspolymerisationsverfahren. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the preferred dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles 0.01 microns to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicone copolyols, it is to be understood as that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicone copolyols that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Is preferred a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and especially preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching Monomers, that is the amount of tri and tetrafunctional siloxanes, certainly. It can be both low-branched and highly branched Dimethiconecopolyole be very particularly preferred.

If containing dimethicone copolyols (S3) in the base composition are, then these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

Especially however, the use of the dimethicone copolyols (S3) in is preferred the active ingredient composition (2). This contains the Dimthiconcopolyole (S3) preferably in amounts of at least 25 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 40 wt .-%, most preferably in amounts of at least 70% by weight. In a very particularly preferred embodiment The dimethicone copolyols (S3) are the only components that can be used the active ingredient composition (2) can be used.

Amino-functional Silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may, for. By the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M (S4-I)

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical which contains at least one amino-functional group, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical which is composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "A" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, Ha vinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) O-CH ₂ CH ₂ - -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ - In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values in the range from about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of R _a Q _b SiO _{( 4-) ab ) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{( 4-c ) / 2} units ranges from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably about 1 : 15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G ist -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -0-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen O und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus
• – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂
• – -N(R'')₂
• – -N⁺(R'')₃A^–
• – -N'H(R'')²A^–
• – -N⁺H₂(R'')A^–
• – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred agents are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (S4-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• - R 'is a monovalent radical selected from
• --N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R '') ₂
• - N (R '') ₂
• - N ⁺ (R '') ₃ A ^-
• - -N'H (R '') ² A ^-
• - N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^-
• --N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R '' represents the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _{1 -20-} alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000. insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 ., in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Also particularly preferred are agents which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV)

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional Silicone an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above of 0.3 meq / g and especially above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

If the amodimethicones (S4) are contained in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of amodimethicone based on the composition. However, the use of the amodimethicones is preferred according to the invention (S4) in the drug composition (2). This contains the amodimethicones (S4) are preferred in amounts of at least 15% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts of 25% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 50% by weight. In a very preferred Ausführungsforrxi can Amodimethicone (S4) used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2) become.

In the preferred compositions (1 and 2) may be a mixture of at least 2 different silicones are used. preferred Mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. A most preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic di methiconol and / or dimethicone, at least another non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol and at least one amino-functional silicone. Be different Silicones used as a mixture, so is the mixing ratio largely variable. However, all are preferably used for the mixture Silicones in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a used binary mixture. A ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all of the silicones contained in the mixture as much as possible a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt .-%.

If the silicone blend are included in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of silicone mixture based on the composition.

According to the invention however, the use of the mixture of different is preferred Silicones in the active ingredient composition (2). This contains the corresponding mixture is preferred in amounts of at least 15 Wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts of 25 wt .-%, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 50 wt .-%. In a very special preferred embodiment, the mixture of silicones used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2) become.

All particularly preferred are both silicone polymers, dimethiconols and amodimethicones together with the imidazolinium compounds of the Formula I can be used. The previously described applies accordingly. The mixing ratio of the two silicone polymers is 99: 1 to 1:99. However, it is preferably 30:70 until 70:30. A very particularly preferred mixing ratio is 1: 1.

Particularly preferred agents contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 5 to 5% by weight such a mixture of the preferred silicone polymers.

In a preferred embodiment, the effect of the active ingredient complex (A) are further increased by fatty substances (D). Under fatty substances are to understand fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both solid and liquid may be in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.

When Fatty acids (D1) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated Fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. These include, for example to name isostearic acids, as commercial products Emersol 871 and Emersol 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor IP 95, as well as all others under the trade names Edenor (Cognis) distributed fatty acids. Other typical Examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, Caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, Lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, Palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic, linoleic, linolenic, Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical Mixtures z. B. in the pressure splitting of natural Fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated Fatty acids are produced. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings, which are coconut oil or Palm oil are available; especially preferred is usually the use of stearic acid.

The Use amount is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy. The amount is preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, with very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 Wt .-% can be.

As fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, it usually being possible to start from a recovery from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 116, Guerbitoll ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used preferably. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

When natural or synthetic waxes (D3) can preferably used are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, Carnauba Wax, Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Ozokerite, Ceresin, Spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The Use amount is 0.1-50 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.10-20 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.1-15 wt .-% based on the total agent.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle. flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-nalkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 CAtomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-nundecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyln-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tertbutylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, isoPentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Ester sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, ArachylalkohoL Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäss besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V). Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat. Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat Ethylenglykol-diisotridecanoat. Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-diisostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC), Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Massgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R₂ und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt. Die Einsatzmenge der natürlichen und synthetischen kosmetischen Ölkörper in den erfindungsgemass verwendeten Mitteln beträgt üblicherweise 0,1–30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, bevorzugt 0,1–20 Gew.-%, und insbesondere 0,1–15 Gew.-%.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and di-nalkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-nundecyl ether , Di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-de cyl ether, n-decyln-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isoPentyl -n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol , Erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V). Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate. Di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate. Propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetric, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in the DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, fatty acid partial glycerides, are the monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ₂ and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used. The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight .-%.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the preferred Average is usually 0.5-75 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 Wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The combination of the active ingredient complex (A) with surfactants (E) has proved to be particularly advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the preferably used agents contain surfactants. The term "surfactants" refers to surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in " H.- D. Dörfler, Interfaces and Colloid Chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH2-CH2O)x-CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = O oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_X-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = O oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäss DE-A-37 25 030 , sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäss DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäss DE-A-3926 344 , [0149]
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen, Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
  
  in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R6, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AIkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II) in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III) [0155]
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für O oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-B1 0 561 825 , der EP-B1 0 561 999 , der DE-A1 42 04 700 oder von A. K. Biswas et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) und F. U. Ahmed in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 67, 8 (1990) beschrieben worden sind,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in the present preparations are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _X -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-3926344 , [0149]
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
  
  in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or Alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ^6, where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C. Atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is a number from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in the DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III) [0155]
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total O or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described for example in the EP-B1 0 561 825 , of the EP-B1 0 561 999 , of the DE-A1 42 04 700 or from AK Biswas et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FU Ahmed in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 67, 8 (1990) have been described
• Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044 are described
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglyceric disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^{( -)} group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, Ndimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids. N-alkyl aminobutyric acids. N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropiorate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl oder C₂-C₆- Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol LS, Dehydol LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, [0164] Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride, alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind, Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine, Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäss Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II) in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Stellvertretend für das umfangreiche Schrifttum sei hier auf die Übersichtsarbeit von Biermann et al. in Starch/Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm. Toil. 108, 89 (1993) sowie J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) verwiesen.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - With a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ - alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, such as the types available under the sales names Dehydol LS, Dehydol LT (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol, addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• Alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of the formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature is here on the review of Biermann et al. in Starch / Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm. Toil. 108, 89 (1993) such as J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) directed.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the single molecule must always be integer and here especially If the values p = 1 to 6 can be assumed, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R <4> can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut oil alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3. Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, a nonionic surfactant of formula (E4-III), R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III) R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the methods of their manufacture, reference may be made to U.S. Patents US 1,985,424 . US 2,016,962 and US 2,703,798 as well as the International Patent Application WO 92/06984 directed. An overview of this The ma from H. Kelkenberg is found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988) , Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C _12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

When preferred nonionic surfactants have been the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

These Connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such Examples of alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-Myr [iota] styl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as Starting materials outnumber connections with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

Farther Very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be used in the fiction, according to Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based to be included on the entire medium. Amounts of 0.5-15 % By weight are preferred and most preferred are amounts from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution thereby understood mixtures of homologues, which in the implementation of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrow homolog distributions are opposed obtained, for example, when hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or -alkoholate be used as catalysts. The usage of products with restricted homolog distribution may be preferred be.

The Surfactants (E) are preferred in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight 0.5-30 wt.% And most preferably from 0.5-25 Wt .-%, based on the total preferred agent used.

usable are also cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary type Ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines. preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylamine-ammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants mentioned preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Arrnocare ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats. The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are in the preferred agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants as well their mixtures may be preferred.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 CAtomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin, Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^® 68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden. Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls PGPH^®),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C – Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the novel active ingredient complex (A) can be increased by emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in " H. -D. Dörfler, interfaces and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". Preferred emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood. Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls PGPH ^®),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The preferred agents contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total mean.

Preferably, the present compositions may contain at least one nonionic emulsifier tor with an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 , listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 10-15 may be particularly preferred.

When Furthermore, it has been found to be advantageous for polymers (G) to be Effect of n drug complex (A) can support. In a preferred embodiment, the agents used therefore polymers are added, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers have been found to be effective.

Under Cationic polymers (G1) are polymers which are known in the main and / or side chain have a group which is "temporary" or "permanent" cationic can be. According to the invention, "permanent cationic" becomes denotes polymers which are independent of the pH of the Having a cationic group. These are usually Polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic Groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Especially such Polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is over a C1-4 hydrocarbon group on one of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof built polymer backbone are bound, have proved to be particularly suitable.

in der R¹= -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^{(– )} ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgerührten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:
R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
m hat den Wert 2.Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{(- ) is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Preferred among these polymers are those for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
R ¹ is a methyl group
R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
m has the value 2.

When Physiologically acceptable counterions X come, for example Halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions in Consideration. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene GIycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-I -Trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. An inventively preferred Co Polymer is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^® 400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäss der DE-PS 44 13 686 ,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^® Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-aminomodifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil-Quat^® 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Ester und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^® 100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^® 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^® 734 und Gafquat^® 755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlonid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkylpolyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM 2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil Quat ^® 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt.), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone Vinylimidazoliummethochlonid copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. Also useful are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370. , Other cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.

Preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according of the DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or Kerstin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic Protein hydrolysates also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,200,074 and 5,200,299 are known "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxy Propyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.

at the anionic polymers (G2), which the effect of the active ingredient complex (A), are anionic Polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers, can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective as the sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid contain, wherein the sulfonic acid group completely or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono or triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-Acrylaxnid copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono or triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer can also be present in crosslinked form, with preference being given to polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide as crosslinking agents. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product urchins ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffm) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7) in addition to the polymer component, has proved to be particularly advantageous.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have been found to be particularly effective.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A with 1,9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A). The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of a amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic and their simple ester represents.

Other preferably usable amphoteric polymers are those in the British Patent Application 2,104,091 , of the European Patent Application 47,714 , of the European Patent Application 217 274 , of the European Patent Publication 283,817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 mentioned compounds.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (G3-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^{( –)} (G3-I)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (G3-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (G3-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind. Diese Verbindungen können sowohl direkt als auch in Salzform, die durch Neutralisation der Polymerisate, beispielsweise mit einem Alkalihydroxid, erhalten wird, erfindungsgemäss eingesetzt werden. Bezüglich der Einzelheiten der Herstellung dieser Polymerisate wird ausdrücklich auf den Inhalt der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973 Bezug genommen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind solche Polymerisate, bei denen Monomere des Typs (a) eingesetzt werden, bei denen R³, R⁴ und R⁵ Methylgruppen sind, Z eine NH-Gruppe und A^(–) ein Halogenid-, Methoxysulfat- oder Ethoxysulfat-Ion ist; Acrylamidopropyl-trimethylammoniumchlorid ist ein besonders bevorzugtes Monomeres (a). Als Monomeres (b) für die genannten Polymerisate wird bevorzugt Acrylsäure verwendet.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^{( -)} (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly based on the content of German patent application 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The preferred agents may be used in another embodiment contain non-ionic polymers (G4).

• – Vinylpyrrolido/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal und Benecel^® (AQUALON) vertrieben werden.
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflücltige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200°C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise PoLy-phenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone gemäss der EP 0612759 B1 .

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolido / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).
• - shellac
• - Polyvinylpyrrolidone, as they are sold, for example, under the name Luviskol (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to the EP 0612759 B1 ,

It it is also possible that the preparations used have several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic Polymer included.

The Polymers (G) are preferred in the preferred agents in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Amounts of from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight, are particularly preferred.

Farther In a preferred embodiment, the effect of Active substance complex (A) by UV filter (I) can be increased. The subject to be used according to the invention UV filter in terms of their structure and their physical properties no general restrictions. Rather, they are suitable all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector, their absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range lies. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. For example, the UV filters used herein may be are selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of preferably usable UV filters are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobrom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-3: Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, Neo Heliopan ^{® ®} Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and Triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Parsol HS, Neo Heliopan Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), alpha- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexy ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-Methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 -oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl) -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzo-phenone (Benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan Type ^® 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG ), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Heliop an ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl-salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept- 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, alpha- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methyl-benzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [ 2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid Re-2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found to be structurally similar to UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound the higher effect over such water-soluble Compounds that are distinguished from it by one or more additionally differentiate ionic groups. As water insoluble to understand those UV filters that do not turn out to be at 20 ° C more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1 wt .-%, in water to solve. Furthermore, these compounds should be in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble. The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be particularly be preferred.

According to In another embodiment, such UV filters are preferred, the one cationic group, especially a quaternary one Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

Of the Structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing radiation Group. This group can in principle be distinguished from the known, in the Cosmetic area usable, derived above UV filters, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary Amino function, is replaced.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are derived, are particularly preferred.

The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filters in both the UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range can lie. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above from 20000, lies.

Of the Structural part Q preferably contains as a cationic group a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the positive represents charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom form a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, the as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{(-) is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic anions such as lactate, Citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283), and dodecyl-dimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammoniumtosylat (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course will also use a combination of multiple UV filters disclosed. In the context of this embodiment, the combination at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least a UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are common in the preferred agents in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The action of the preferred active ingredient complex (A) can be further enhanced by a 2-pyrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another aspect is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the agents are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

additionally It may prove advantageous if, in addition to the active ingredient complex (A) Penetrant adjuvants and / or swelling agents (M) are included. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, Guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, Imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, Glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageous can additionally short-chain carboxylic acids (N) support the drug complex (A). Under short-chain Carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention Carboxylic acids are understood to be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or may be cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight less than 750. Preferred may saturated or unsaturated straight chain or branched carboxylic acids with one chain length from 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, most preferably are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids can be one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preference is given to carboxylic acids with several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups can be used, in whole or in part, as esters, Acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, Lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, Amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphine or phosphate ester. The inventive carboxylic acids can of course along the carbon chain or the Ring skeleton substituted. To the substituents of For example, preferred carboxylic acids are to be counted C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl, cyano, Formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or Imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in alpha position. Very particularly preferred substituents are Hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, wherein the amino function optionally further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be. Furthermore, preferred are also carboxylic acid derivatives the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäss Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of preferred carboxylic acids include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid. Toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4, 6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical, Dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) formally by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

dicarboxylic acids of formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

A manufacturing method is for example the U.S. Patent 3,753,968 refer to. The German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses. From the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 For example, deodorants containing zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids are known. Finally are from the German Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 Means for washing and rinsing the hair known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids, a significantly improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained. Finally are from the German Offenlegungsschrift 197 54 053 Hair treatment compositions are known which have nourishing effects.

The Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be, for example by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization are prepared. Usually one becomes of a polyunsaturated fatty acid go out as dicarboxylic acid component. Preferably, the accessible from natural fats and oils Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component in particular acrylic acid, but also z. For example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Usually arise in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, in which a Component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can according to the invention as well as the pure Connections are used.

Preferably can be used in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to Formula (N-I) are also those dicarboxylic acids that are from the compounds according to formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 Differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from these compounds formally by addition of a molecule Water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is produced by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the short-chain carboxylic acids previously exemplified even their physiologically compatible Salts are used. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present application, the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, Ethyl and hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are to be understood. All however, particularly preferred may be with alkaline reacting Amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids are used. Furthermore, it may be preferable for reasons of fornication the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, especially the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with the active ingredient (A). It has been found that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or Glucuronic. As the alcohol component of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for. As fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trademark Cosmacolder EniChem, Augusts Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

The active ingredient complex (A) can in principle be added directly to the colorant, the corrugating agent or the fixation. However, the application of the active substance complex to the keratinic fiber can also take place in a separate step, either before or after the actual dyeing or corrugating process. Separate treatments, optionally also days or weeks before or after the hair treatment, for example by dyeing or waves, are encompassed by the disclosure. Preferably, however, the application of the active substance complex according to the invention after the corresponding hair treatment, such as dyeing or waves, can be carried out in particular in the corresponding hair treatment compositions. The term dyeing process encompasses all processes known to the person skilled in the art in which a colorant is applied to the hair which has been moistened and left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed or left completely on the hair. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. KH Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced, which reflect the corresponding knowledge of the professional.

Regarding the kind according to which the active substance complex on the keratinische Fiber, in particular the human hair, is applied exist no restrictions in principle. As packaging of this Preparations are, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, Waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching of phase inversion, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. Particularly preferred is the invention Application of the cosmetic fluid in the present delivery device. The pH value of these preparations can in principle be at values of 2-11 lie. It is preferably between 5 and 11, with values of 6 to 10 are particularly preferred. To adjust this pH can be practically any suitable for cosmetic purposes Acid or base can be used. Preferred Ba sen are Ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

On the hair remaining preparations have been found to be effective and therefore may be preferred embodiments represent. Among remaining on the hair are preferably those Preparations understood that are not part of the treatment after a period of a few seconds to an hour with the help of water or an aqueous solution again be rinsed out of the hair. Rather, the remain Preparations until the next shampooing, d. H. usually more than 12 hours, on the hair.

According to In a second preferred embodiment, these are Preparations formulated as a hair conditioner or hair conditioner. The Preparations according to this embodiment can after expiration of this exposure time with water or at least predominantly water-containing agents are rinsed out; you can however, as stated above, be left on the hair. It may be preferred, the present preparation before Use of a cleansing agent, a waving agent or others Apply hair treatment products on the hair. In this case the preparation serves as a structural protection for the following Applications.

According to Other preferred embodiments may be the agents but also, for example, to cleansing agents such as shampoos, nourishing products such as rinses, firming agents such as hair fixatives, mousses Styling gels and hair drier, permanent deformation agent such as perming and fixative and in particular in the context of a Permanent waving or dyeing process used pretreatment or rinsing act. In addition to the mandatory Active complex (A) and the other, above-mentioned preferred In principle, these preparations can all be components further, known to those skilled in such cosmetic products Components included.

• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-nundecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tertbutylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, isoPentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
• – Fettalkohole, insbesondere lineare und/oder gesättigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, Monoester von C8 bis C30-Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 6 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z. B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie
• – Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyll-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat, Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und alpha-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N2O, Dimethylether, CO2 und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. Methylcellulose, hydroxy Alkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl nundecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether , Di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether,
• Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, monoesters of C 8 to C 30 fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 C atoms,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• - Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well
• Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Quaternized amines such as methyll-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• - opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and alpha-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
• - antioxidants.

In terms of additional optional components and the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art known relevant manuals, z. B. the above monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

In In a fourth embodiment, it may be preferable to use the Active substance complex (A) directly in dye or tinting agent to incorporate, that is, the active ingredient complex (A) in combination to use with dyes and / or dye precursors. When such may be oxidation dye precursors from the developer (B1) and coupler type (B2), natural and synthetic substantive Dyes (C) and precursors of naturally-occurring dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, as well as mixtures of representatives of one or several of these groups are used.

As developer-type oxidation dye precursors (B1) are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4- Amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane , 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-pro panol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives EP 0 740 741 respectively. WO 94/08970 such as B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

As the coupler type oxidation dye precursors (B2), m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methyl-phenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-metb.ylpb.enol , 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy 2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2, 4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) ben2 [theta] 1,1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2,6-bis) 2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diaminobenzene 1-methylbenzene, such as trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2- Methyl 1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7- Dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one , Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3 , 4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Especially suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Substantive Dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, Azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable direct dyes are those under international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds and 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Hydroxyethyl 2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

In the naturally occurring direct dyes are, for example Henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black Tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, sedre and Contain alcano root.

It it is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, in the preferred hair colorants, conditioned by the manufacturing processes for the individual Dyes, in minor amounts still contain other components be, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, excluded Need to become.

With regard to the dyes which can be used in the present hair dyeing and tinting compositions, reference is expressly made to the Monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7 (pages 248-250; rectifying dyes) and chapter 8, pages 264-267 ; Oxidation dye precursors), appeared as Volume 7 of the series "Dermatology" (Ed .: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), published by Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986 , as well as that "European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials" , published by the European Community, available in floppy disk form from the Federal Association of German Industry and Trade Company for Pharmaceuticals, Health Products and Personal Care e. V., Mannheim.

When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are, for example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts used. Preference is given to using such indoles and indolines, the at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent at the six-ring, exhibit. These groups can carry additional substituents, z. B. in the form of an etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, NMethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminomol.

Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole

The Indoline and indole derivatives can be used in the processes Colorants both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides.

at the use of dye precursors of the indoline or indole type it may be preferable to combine them with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, especially alpha-aminocarboxylic acids and omega-aminocarboxylic acids. Among the alpha-aminocarboxylic acids In turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A most preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as hydrochloride.

Either the oxidation dye precursors as well as the substantive Dyes and the precursors of naturally occurring dyes are in the Agents preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

hair dyes, especially if the coloration is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidants, such as hydrogen peroxide, takes place, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11. To this Purpose, the colorants include alkalizing, usually Alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine, and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are within this group prefers. Also, the use of omega-amino acids like Omega-aminocaproic acid as alkalizing agent is possible.

He follows the training of the actual hair colors in the context of an oxidative Process, so common oxidants, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products be used on urea, melamine or sodium borate. The oxidation With air, however, atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant can be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible the oxidation to carry out with the help of enzymes, whereby the enzymes both be used for the production of oxidizing per-compounds as well as to enhance the effect of a small amount existing oxidizing agent, or enzymes are used, the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agent) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases are preferred such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, Uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure is mentioned, the effect of small amounts (eg 1% and less, based on the total agent) to amplify hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then immediately before dyeing the hair mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C, preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

Especially For hair that is difficult to dye, the preparation may be mixed with the Dye precursors without prior mixing with the oxidation component be applied to the hair. After an exposure time of 20 up to 30 minutes then - possibly after an intermediate rinse - the Oxidation component applied. After another period of exposure from 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and if desired shampooed. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding Medium adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant is first an air oxidation desired, wherein the applied agent preferably a pH from 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation may be the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ^{2 +,} Cu ^{2 +,} Fe ^2+, Fe ^3+, Mn ²⁺ Mn ^4+, Li ^+, Mg ^2+, Ca ²⁺ and Al ^3+. Particularly suitable are Zn ^{2 +} , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ^{2 + .} The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

• a. den Wirkstoffkomplex (A)
• b. und eine Verbindung ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der Tenside (E) und/oder der Polymere (G).

A fifth embodiment is cosmetic compositions comprising:

• a. the active substance complex (A)
• b. and a compound selected from the group of surfactants (E) and / or polymers (G).

In terms of Further components of these means are referred to the above.

Examples

• ¹ Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO (INCI-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth-20)(COGNIS)
• ² Trimethylhexadecylammoniumchlorid ca. 25% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: Cetrimonium Chloride)(COGNIS)
• ³ Hydroxybenzoesäuremethylester-Hydroxybenzoesäureethylester-Hy droxybenzoesäurepropylester-Hydroxybenzoesäurebutylester-Phenoxyethanol-Gemisch (ca. 28% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben)(NIPA)
• ⁴ Gemisch aus Alkylpolyglycosid und Fettsäuremonoglycerid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate)
• ⁵ N,NJN-Trimethyl-2[(methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl)oxy]-Ethanaminiumchlorid-Homopolymer (50% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylenglycol Dicaprilate Dicaprate (and) PPG-I Trideceth-6) (ALLIED COLLOIDS)
• ⁶ Weizenproteinhydrolysat ca. 40% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)(COGNIS)

2. Haarspülung Eumulgin^® B2 0,3 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 3,3 Isopropylmyristat 0,5 Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0,3 Dehyquart^®L 80⁷ 0,4 Lamesoft^® PO 65 1,5 Cosmedia Guar^® C 261⁸ 1,5 Promois^® MiIk-CAQ⁹ 3,0 Citronensäure 0,4 Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed SiIk 2,0 Pearl Protein Extract BG 1,5 Poly-L-serin 0,5 Phenonip^® 0,8 Wasser ad 100

• ⁷ Bis(cocoylethyl)-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium-methosulfat (ca. 76% Aktivsubstanz in Propylenglykol; INCI-Bezeichnung: Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfat, Propylene Glycol)(COGNIS)
• ⁸ Guarhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium Chlorid; INCI-Bezeichnung: Guar Trimonium ChlorideHydroxypropyl (COGNIS)
• ⁹ INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein (SEIWA KASEI)

3. Haarkur Dehyquart^®F75¹⁰ 4,0 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 4,0 Paraffinöl perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1,5 Dehyquart^®A-CA 4,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 1,0 Salcare^®SC 96 1,5 Sericin 0,1 Panthenol 0,4 Crodarom Pearl 2,5 Glyoxylsäure 0,5 Amisafe-LMA-60^® 1,0 Gluadin^®W 20¹² 3,0 Germall^® 115¹³ 1,0 Citronensäure 0,15 Phenonip^® 0,8 Wasser ad 100

• ¹⁰ Fettalkohole-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester-Gemisch (INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol)(COGNIS)
• ¹¹ INCI-Bezeichnung Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl (Ajinomoto)
• ¹² Weizenproteinhydrolysat (20% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Aqua(and) Hydrolized Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben)(COGNIS)
• ¹³ INCI-Bezeichnung: Imidazolidinyl Urea (Sutton Laboratories)

4. Haarkur Dehyquart^® L80 2,0 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 6,0 Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2,0 Rewoquat^®W 75 ¹⁴ 2,0 Cosmedia Guar C261 0,5 Lamesoft^® PO 65 0,5 Sepigel^®305¹⁵ 3,5 Honeyquat^® 50¹⁶ 1,0 Gluadin^® WQ 2,5 Gluadin^®W 20 3,0 Hydrolyzed Sericin 0,8 Pantolacton 0,4 Crodarom Pearl 1,0 Vitamin E 0,2 Citronensäure 0,15 Phenonip^® 0,8 Wasser ad 100

• ¹⁴ 1-Methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-talgfettsäureamidoethylimidazolinium-methosulfat (ca. 75% Aktivsubstanz in Propylenglykol; INCI-Bezeichnung: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol) (WITCO)
• ¹⁵ Copolymer aus Acrylamid und 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyacrylamide (and) C13-C14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7)(SEPPIC)
• ¹⁶ INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydroxpropyltrimonium Honey (BROOKS)

5. Haarkur Dehyquart^®F75 0,3 Salcare^®SC 96 5,0 Gluadin^® WQ 1,5 Lamesoft^® PO 65 0,5 Dow Corning^®200 Fluid, 5 cSt¹⁷ 1,5 Gafquat^®755N¹⁸ 1,5 Pearl Protein Extract BG 1,5 Panthenol 0,5 Glycinmethylester 0,5 Tyrosinmethylester 0,2 Sericin 0,2 Biodocarb^{® 19} 0,02 Parfümöl 0,25 Wasser ad 100

• ¹⁷ Polydimethylsiloxan (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)
• ¹⁸ Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Vinylpyrrolidon-Copolymer, mit Diethylsulfat quaterniert (19% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF)
• ¹⁹ 3-Iod-2-propinyl-n-butylcarbamat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Iodopropynyl Butyl carbamate) (MILKER & GRÜNING)

6. Haarkur Seeigel^®305 5,0 Dow Corning^®Q2-5220²0 1,5 Promois^® Milk Q²¹ 3,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 0,5 Polymer P1 entsprechend DE 3929173 0,6 Genamin^®DSAC²² 0,3 Crodarom Pearl 1,8 Panthenol 0,5 Promois^® SiIk 1000 1,0 Biotin 0,3 Phenonip^® 0,8 Parfümöl 0,25 Wasser ad 100

• ²⁰ Silicon-Glykol-Copolymer (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone Copolyol) (DOW CORNING)
• ²¹ INCI-Bezeichnung Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein ca. 30% Aktivsubstanz (SEIWA KASEI)
• ²² Dimethyldistearylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

7. Shampoo Texapon^® NSO²³ 40,0 Dehyton^® G²⁴ 6,0 Polymer JR 400^®25 0,5 Cetiol^® HE²⁶ 0,5 Ajidew^® NL 50²⁷ 1,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 3,0 Sericin 0,8 Promois^® SiIk 1000 2,0 Gluadin^® WQT²⁸ 2,5 Gluadin^® W 20 0,5 Panthenol (50%) 0,3 Crodarom Pearl 2,0 Vitamin E 0,1 Vitamin H 0,1 Glutaminsäure 0,2 Citronensäure 0,5 Natriumbenzoat 0,5 Parfüm 0,4 NaCl 0,5 Wasser ad 100

• ²³ Natriumlaurylethersulfat ca. 28% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: SoLaureth Sulfate)dium (COGNIS)
• ²⁴ INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, ca. 30% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser)(COGNIS)
• ²⁵ quaternierte Hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-10) (UNION CARBIDE)
• ²⁶ Polyol-Fettsäure-Ester (INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (COGNIS)
• ²⁷ Natrium-Salz der 2-Pyrrolidinon-5-carbonsäure (50% Aktivsubstanz: INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium PCA)(AJINOMOTO)
• ²⁸ INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (COGNIS)

8. Shampoo Texapon^® NSO 43,0 Dehyton^® K²⁹ 10,0 Plantacare^® 1200 UP³⁰ 4,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 2,5 Euperlan^®PK 3000³¹ 1,6 Arquad^®316³² 0,8 Polymer JR^® 400 0,3 Gluadin^® WQ 4,0 Lauryldimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk 3,0 Pearl Protein Extract BG 3,0 Sericin 10,0 Milchsäure 0,5 Hydrolupin^® AA³³ 0,5 Äpfelsäure 0,5 Glucamate^®DOE 120³³ 0,5 Natriumchlorid 0,2 Wasser ad 100

• ²⁹ INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocamidopropyl Betaine ca. 30% Aktivsubstanz (COGNIS)
• ³⁰ C12-C16 Fettalkoholglycosid ca. 50% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: Laurylucoside)(COGNIS)
• ³¹ Flüssige Dispersion von perlglanzgebenden Substanzen und Amphotensid
• (ca. 62% Aktivsubstanz; CTFA-Bezeichnung: Glycol Distearate (and) GlyCocoamidopropyl Betaine)cerin (and) Laureth-4] (and) (COGNIS)
• ³² Tri-C₁₆-alkylmethylammoniumchlorid (AKZO)
• ³³ Aminosäuremischung erhalten durch Totalhydrolyse von Lupinenprotein, (INCI-Bezeichnung Lupine Amino Acids)(CRODA)
• ³⁴ ethoxyliertes Methylglucosid-dioleat (CTFA-Bezeichnung: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate)(AMERCHOL)

9. Shampoo Texapon^®N 70³⁵ 21,0 Plantacare^® 1200 UP 8,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 3,0 Gluadin^® WQ 1,5 Panthenol 1,5 Crodarom Pearl 1,0 Niacinamid 0,5 Biotin 0,5 Cutina^® EGMS³⁶ 0,6 Honeyquat^® 50 2,0 Ajidew^® NL 50 2,8 Antil^® 141³⁷ 1,3 Crolastin^®38 1,0 Natriumchlorid 0,2 Magnesiumhydroxid ad pH 4,5 Wasser ad 100

• ³⁵ Natriumlaurylethersulfat mit 2 Mol EO ca. 70% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-BeLaureth Sulfate)zeichnung: Sodium (COGNIS)
• ³⁶ Ethylenglykolmonostearat (ca. 25–35% Monoester, 60–70% Diester; INCI: Bezeichnung: Glycol Stearate)(COGNIS)
• ³⁷ Polyoxyethylen-propylenglykoldioleat (40% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT)
• ³⁸ Elastinhydrolysat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydrolyzed Elastin)(CRODA)

10. Shampoo Texapon^® K 14 5³⁹ 50,0 Dehyton^® K 10,0 Plantacare^® 818 UP⁴⁰ 4,5 Lamesoft^® PO 65 2,0 Pearl Protein Extract BG 5,0 Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2 2,5 Polymer P 1, entsprechend DE 39 29 973 0,6 Cutina^® AGS⁴¹ 2,0 D-Panthenol 0,5 Glucose 1,0 Hydrosesame^® 42 0,8 Salicylsäure 0,4 Natriumchlorid 0,5 Gluadin^® WQ 2,0 Wasser ad 100

• ³⁹ Natriumlaurylmyristylethersulfat ca 28% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Myreth Sulfate)(COGNIS)
• ⁴⁰ C8-C16 Fettalkoholglycosid ca. 50% Aktivsubstanz (INCI-Bezeichnung: Coco Glucoside)(COGNIS)
• ⁴¹ Ethylenglykolstearat (ca. 5–15% Monoester, 85–95% Diester; INCI-Bezeichnung: Glycol Distearate)(COGNIS)
• ⁴² INCI-Bezeichnung: Water (and) Sesame Amino Acids (CRODA)

11. Haarkur Celquat^® L 200⁴³ 0,6 Luviskol^® K30⁴⁴ 0,2 D-Panthenol 0,5 Polymer P1, entsprechend DE 39 29 973 0,6 Dehyquart^® A-CA 1,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 0,5 Hydrosoy^® 2000⁴⁵ 1,0 Asparaginsäure 0,3 Pearl Protein Extract BG 2,0 Biotin 0,3 Niacinamid 0,3 Promois^® SiIk 1000 5,0 Gluadin^® W 40 1,0 Natrosol^® 250 HR⁴⁶ 1,1 Gluadin^® WQ 2,0 Wasser ad 100

• ⁴³ quaterniertes Cellulose-Derivat (95% Aktivsubstanz; CTFA-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT NATIONAL)
• ⁴⁴ Polyvinylpyrolidon (95% Aktivsubstanz; CTFA-Bezeichnung: PVP) (BASF)
• ⁴⁵ Proteinhydrolysat aus Soja (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) (CRODA)
• ⁴⁶ Hydroxyethylcellulose (AQUALON)

12. Färbecreme C_12-18-Fettalkohol 1,2 Lanette^® O⁴⁷ 4,0 Eumulgin^® B2 0,8 Cutina^® KD 16⁴⁸ 2,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 4,0 Natriumsulfit 0,5 L(+)-Ascorbinsäure 0,5 Ammoniumsulfat 0,5 1,2-Propylenglykol 1,2 Polymer JR^®400 0,3 p-Aminophenol 0,35 p-Toluylendiamin 0,85 2-Methylresorcin 0,14 6-Methyl-m-aminophenol 0,42 Cetiol^® OE⁴⁹ 0,5 Honeyquat^® 50 1,0 Ajidew^® NL 50 1,2 Gluadin^® WQ 1,0 Crosilk Liquid^®50 0,5 Crodarom Pearl 1,5 Sericin 0,3 Ammoniak 1,5 Wasser ad 100

• ⁴⁷ Cetylstearylalkohol (INCI-Bezeichnung: Cetearyl Alcohol)(COGNIS)
• ⁴⁸ Selbstemulgierendes Gemisch aus Mono/Diglyceriden höherer gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Kaliumstearat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Glyceryl Stearate SE) (COGNIS)
• ⁴⁹ Di-n-octylether (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dicaprylyl Ether)(COGNIS)
• ⁵⁰ Mischung aus Aminosäuren gewonnen durch Totalhydrolyse von Seidenprotein (INCI-Bezeichnung: SiIk Amino Acids)(CRODA)

13. Entwicklerdispersion für Färbecreme 12. Texapon^® NSO 2,1 Wasserstoffperoxid (50%ig) 12,0 Turpinal^® SL⁵¹ 1,7 Latekoll^® D⁵² 12,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 2,0 Gluadin^® WQ 0,3 Salcare^® SC 96 1,0 Asparaginsäure 0,1 Sericin 0,2 Promois^® SiIk 1000 0,4 Crodarom Pearl 0,8 Wasser ad 100

• ⁵¹ 1-Hydroxyethan-1,1-diphosphonsäure (60% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Etidronic Acid)(COGNIS)
• ⁵² Acrylester-Methacrylsäure-Copolymer (25% Aktivsubstanz)(BASF)

14. Tönungsshampoo Texapon^®N 70 14,0 Dehyton^® K 10,0 Akypo^® RLM 45 NV⁵³ 14,7 Plantacare^® 1200 UP 4,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 3,0 Polymer P 1, entsprechend DE 39 29 973 0,3 Cremophor^® RH 40⁵⁴ 0,8 Pearl Protein Extract BG 0,8 Hydrolyzed Sericin 0,3 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiIk 3,0 Benzoesäure 0,3 Panthenol 0,3 Farbstoff CI. 12 719 0,02 Farbstoff CI. 12 251 0,02 Farbstoff CI. 12 250 0,04 Farbstoff CL 56 059 0,03 Konservierung 0,25 Parfümöl q. s. Eutanol^® G⁵⁵ 0,3 Gluadin^® WQ 1,0 Honeyquat^® 50 1,0 Salcare^® SC 96 0,5 Wasser ad 100

• ⁵³ Laurylalkohol + 4,5 Ethylenoxid-essigsäure-Natriumsalz (20,4% Aktivsubstanz) (CHEM-Y)
• ⁵⁴ Rizinus-Öl, hydriert + 45 Ethylenoxid (INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI)(BASF)
• ⁵⁵ 2-Octyldodecanol (Guerbet-Alkohol) (INCI-Bezeichnung: Octyidodecanol) (COGNIS)

15. Cremedauerwelle Wellcreme Plantacare^® 810 UP⁵⁶ 5,0 Thioglykolsäure 8,0 Turpinal^® SL 0,5 Ammoniak (25%ig) 7,3 Ammoniumcarbonat 3,0 Cetyl/Stearyl-Alkohol 5,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 0,5 Guerbet-Alkohol 4,0 Salcare^® SC 96 3,0 Gluadin^® WQ 2,0 Hydrolyzed Sericin 0,3 Pearl Protein Extract BG 1,0 Glutarsäure 0,2 Hydrotriticum^® 2000⁵⁷ 0,5 Parfumöl q. s. Wasser ad 100

• ⁵⁶ C₈-C₁₀-Alkylglucosid mit Oligomerisationsgrad 1,6 (ca. 60% Aktivsubstanz) (COGNIS)
• ⁵⁷ Weizenproteinhydrolysat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) CRODA)

Fixierlösung Plantacare^® 810 UP 5,0 gehärtetes Rizinusöl 2,0 Lamesoft^® PO 65 1,0 Kaliumbromat 3,5 Nitrilotriessigsäure 0,3 Zitronensäure 0,2 Merquat^® 550⁵⁸ 0,5 Hydagen^® HCMF⁵⁹ 0,5 Weinsäure 0,5 Gluadin^® WQ 0,5 Crodarom Pearl 2,0 Hydrolyzed Sericin 0,1 Pantolacton 0,3 Parfumöl q. s. Wasser ad 100

• ⁵⁸ Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer (8% Aktivsubstanz; INCI Bezeichnung: Polyquarternium 7)(MOBIL OIL)
• 59 Chitosan Pulver (INCI-Bezeichnung: Chitosan)(COGNIS)

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. applications 1. Hair Conditioner Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 Crodarom Pearl 1.0 Promois® ^® Siik-1000 0.7 isopropyl 0.5 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 ⁴ 0.5 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA ² 2.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 ⁵ 1.0 citric acid 0.4 ^Gluadin®6 W40 2.0 pyridoxine 1.0 tartaric acid 0.7 ^Phenonip®3 0.8 Water ad 100

• ¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
• ² trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride approx. 25% active ingredient (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)
• ³ hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester hydroxypropyl ester hydroxybenzoic acid butyl ester phenoxyethanol mixture (about 28% active ingredient INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA)
• ⁴ Mixture of alkylpolyglycoside and fatty acid monoglyceride (INCI name: Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate)
• ⁵ N, N, N-trimethyl-2 [(methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] ethanaminium chloride homopolymer (50% active ingredient; INCI name: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprilate dicaprate (and) PPG-I Trideceth-6) (ALLIED COLLOIDS)
• ⁶ wheat protein hydrolyzate approx. 40% active ingredient (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)

2. Hair conditioner Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart ^® L 80 ⁷ 0.4 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 1.5 Cosmedia Guar ^® C 261 ⁸ 1.5 Promois® ^® MEECH-CAQ ⁹ 3.0 citric acid 0.4 Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed SiIk 2.0 Pearl Protein Extract BG 1.5 Poly-L-serine 0.5 Phenonip ^® 0.8 Water ad 100

• ⁷ bis (cocoylethyl) hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate (about 76% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (COGNIS)
• ⁸ guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; INCI name: Guar Trimonium Chloride Hydroxypropyl (COGNIS)
• ⁹ INCI name: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein (SEIWA KASEI)

3rd hair cure Dehyquart ^® F75 ¹⁰ 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl 4.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1.5 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 1.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 1.5 sericin 0.1 panthenol 0.4 Crodarom Pearl 2.5 glyoxylic 0.5 Amisafe LMA-60 ^® 1.0 Gluadin ^® W 20 ¹² 3.0 Germall ^® 115 ¹³ 1.0 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100

• ¹⁰ fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)
• ¹¹ INCI name hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl ether HCl (Ajinomoto)
• ¹² Wheat protein hydrolyzate (20% active ingredient in water, INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (COGNIS)
• ¹³ INCI name: imidazolidinyl urea (Sutton Laboratories)

4th hair cure Dehyquart® ^® L80 2.0 Cetyl / stearyl 6.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2.0 Rewoquat ^® W 75 ¹⁴ 2.0 Cosmedia Guar C261 0.5 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 0.5 Sepigel ^® 305 ¹⁵ 3.5 Honeyquat ^® 50 ¹⁶ 1.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 2.5 Gluadin® ^® W 20 3.0 Hydrolyzed sericin 0.8 pantolactone 0.4 Crodarom Pearl 1.0 Vitamin E 0.2 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100

• ¹⁴ 1-Methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (about 75% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol) (WITCO)
• ¹⁵ Copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C13-C14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7) (SEPPIC)
• ¹⁶ INCI name: Hydroxpropyltrimonium Honey (BROOKS)

5th hair cure Dehyquart® ^® F75 0.3 Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.5 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 0.5 Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt ¹⁷ 1.5 Gafquat ^® 755N ¹⁸ 1.5 Pearl Protein Extract BG 1.5 panthenol 0.5 glycine 0.5 tyrosine 0.2 sericin 0.2 Biodocarb ^{® 19} 0.02 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100

• ¹⁷ polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)
• ¹⁸ Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (19% active substance in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF)
• ¹⁹ 3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GRÜNING)

6. Hair cure Sea urchin ^® 305 5.0 Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 ² 0 1.5 Promois ^® Milk Q ²¹ 3.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 0.5 Polymer P1 accordingly DE 3929173 0.6 Genamin ^® DSAC ²² 0.3 Crodarom Pearl 1.8 panthenol 0.5 Promois® ^® Siik 1000 1.0 biotin 0.3 Phenonip ^® 0.8 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100

• ²⁰ silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol) (DOW CORNING)
• ²¹ INCI name Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein approx. 30% active substance (SEIWA KASEI)
• ²² Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

7. Shampoo Texapon.RTM ^® NSO ²³ 40.0 Dehyton ^® G ²⁴ 6.0 Polymer JR ^400®25 0.5 Cetiol ^® HE ²⁶ 0.5 Ajidew ^® NL 50 ²⁷ 1.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 3.0 Sericin 0.8 Promois® ^® Siik 1000 2.0 Gluadin ^® WQT ²⁸ 2.5 Gluadin® ^® W 20 0.5 Panthenol (50%) 0.3 Crodarom Pearl 2.0 Vitamin E 0.1 Vitamin H 0.1 glutamic acid 0.2 citric acid 0.5 sodium benzoate 0.5 Perfume 0.4 NaCl 0.5 water ad 100

• ²³ sodium lauryl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: SoLaureth Sulfate) dium (COGNIS)
• ²⁴ INCI name: Sodium cocoamphoacetate, approx. 30% active ingredient in water) (COGNIS)
• ²⁵ quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (UNION CARBIDE)
• ²⁶ Polyol fatty acid esters (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (COGNIS)
• ²⁷ Sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid (50% active ingredient: INCI name: Sodium PCA) (AJINOMOTO)
• ²⁸ INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (COGNIS)

8. Shampoo Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 43.0 Dehyton ^® K ²⁹ 10.0 Plantacare ^® 1200 UP ³⁰ 4.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 2.5 Euperlan ^® PK 3000 ³¹ 1.6 Arquad ^® 316 ³² 0.8 Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 Gluadin® ^® WQ 4.0 Lauryldimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk 3.0 Pearl Protein Extract BG 3.0 sericin 10.0 lactic acid 0.5 Hydro Lupine ^® AA ³³ 0.5 malic acid 0.5 Glucamate DOE 120 ^{® 33} 0.5 sodium chloride 0.2 water ad 100

• ²⁹ INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine approx. 30% active ingredient (COGNIS)
• ³⁰ C12-C16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: Laurylucoside) (COGNIS)
• ³¹ Liquid dispersion of pearlescing substances and amphoteric surfactant
• (about 62% active ingredient; CTFA name: glycol distearate (and) glycocoamidopropyl betaine) cerin (and) laureth-4] (and) (COGNIS)
• ³² tri-C ₁₆ -alkylmethylammonium chloride (AKZO)
• ³³ amino acid mixture obtained by total hydrolysis of lupine protein, (INCI name Lupine Amino Acids) (CRODA)
• ³⁴ ethoxylated methylglucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate) (AMERCHOL)

9. Shampoo Texapon ^® N 70 ³⁵ 21.0 Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 8.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 3.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.5 panthenol 1.5 Crodarom Pearl 1.0 niacinamide 0.5 biotin 0.5 Cutina EGMS ^{® 36} 0.6 Honeyquat ^® 50 2.0 Ajidew ^® NL 50 2.8 Antil ^® 141 ³⁷ 1.3 ^{Crolastin®38} 1.0 sodium chloride 0.2 magnesium hydroxide ad pH 4.5 water ad 100

• ³⁵ sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 mol EO approx. 70% active ingredient (INCI-BeLaureth Sulfate) drawing: Sodium (COGNIS)
• ³⁶ ethylene glycol monostearate (about 25-35% monoester, 60-70% diester, INCI: name: glycol stearate) (COGNIS)
• ³⁷ Polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40% active ingredient, INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT)
• ³⁸ Elastinhydrolysat (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Elastin) (CRODA)

10. Shampoo Texapon ^® K 14 5 ³⁹ 50.0 Dehyton ^® K 10.0 Plantacare ^® 818 UP ⁴⁰ 4.5 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 2.0 Pearl Protein Extract BG 5.0 Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2 2.5 Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6 Cutina ^® AGS ⁴¹ 2.0 D-panthenol 0.5 glucose 1.0 Hydrosesame ^® 42 0.8 salicylic acid 0.4 sodium chloride 0.5 Gluadin® ^® WQ 2.0 water ad 100

• ³⁹ sodium lauryl myristyl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (COGNIS)
• ⁴⁰ C8-C16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (COGNIS)
• ⁴¹ ethylene glycol stearate (about 5-15% monoester, 85-95% diester, INCI name: glycol distearate) (COGNIS)
• ⁴² INCI name: Water (and) Sesame Amino Acids (CRODA)

11. Hair cure Celquat ^® L 200 ⁴³ 0.6 Luviskol ^® K30 ⁴⁴ 0.2 D-panthenol 0.5 Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 1.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 0.5 Hydrosoy ^® 2000 ⁴⁵ 1.0 aspartic acid 0.3 Pearl Protein Extract BG 2.0 biotin 0.3 niacinamide 0.3 Promois® ^® Siik 1000 5.0 Gluadin® ^® W 40 1.0 Natrosol ^® 250 HR ⁴⁶ 1.1 Gluadin® ^® WQ 2.0 water ad 100

• ⁴³ quaternized cellulose derivative (95% active, CTFA name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT NATIONAL)
• ⁴⁴ polyvinylpyrolidone (95% active substance, CTFA name: PVP) (BASF)
• ⁴⁵ Protein hydrolyzate from soy (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) (CRODA)
• ⁴⁶ hydroxyethyl cellulose (AQUALON)

12. Dye cream C _12-18 fatty alcohol 1.2 Lanette ^® O ⁴⁷ 4.0 Eumulgin ^® B2 0.8 Cutina ^® KD 16 ⁴⁸ 2.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 4.0 sodium 0.5 L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5 ammonium sulfate 0.5 1,2-propylene glycol 1.2 Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85 2-methyl 0.14 6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42 Cetiol ^® OE ⁴⁹ 0.5 Honeyquat ^® 50 1.0 Ajidew ^® NL 50 1.2 Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.0 Crosilk ^Liquid®50 0.5 Crodarom Pearl 1.5 sericin 0.3 ammonia 1.5 water ad 100

• ⁴⁷ Cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)
• ⁴⁸ Self-emulsifying mixture of mono / diglycerides of higher saturated fatty acids with potassium stearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate SE) (COGNIS)
• ⁴⁹ Di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (COGNIS)
• ⁵⁰ Mixture of amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of silk protein (INCI name: SiIk Amino Acids) (CRODA)

13. Developer Dispersion for Dyeing Cream 12. Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 2.1 Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0 Turpinal SL ^{® 51} 1.7 Latekoll ^® D ⁵² 12.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 2.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 0.3 Salcare ^® SC 96 1.0 aspartic acid 0.1 sericin 0.2 Promois® ^® Siik 1000 0.4 Crodarom Pearl 0.8 water ad 100

• ⁵¹ 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (60% active ingredient, INCI name: Etidronic Acid) (COGNIS)
• ⁵² Acrylic ester-methacrylic acid copolymer (25% active substance) (BASF)

14. Tinting shampoo Texapon.RTM ^® N 70 14.0 Dehyton ^® K 10.0 Akypo RLM 45 ^® NV ⁵³ 14.7 Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 3.0 Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3 Cremophor ^® RH 40 ⁵⁴ 0.8 Pearl Protein Extract BG 0.8 Hydrolyzed Sericin 0.3 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiIk 3.0 benzoic acid 0.3 panthenol 0.3 Dye CI. 12 719 0.02 Dye CI. 12 251 0.02 Dye CI. 12 250 0.04 Dye CL 56 059 0.03 preservation 0.25 perfume oil qs Eutanol ^® G ⁵⁵ 0.3 Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.0 Honeyquat ^® 50 1.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5 water ad 100

• ⁵³ lauryl alcohol + 4.5 ethylene oxide-acetic acid sodium salt (20.4% active substance) (CHEM-Y)
• ⁵⁴ Castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI) (BASF)
• ⁵⁵ 2-octyldodecanol (guerbet alcohol) (INCI name: octyidodecanol) (COGNIS)

15. Cream duration wave Wellcreme Plantacare ^® 810 UP ⁵⁶ 5.0 thioglycolic 8.0 Turpinal® ^® SL 0.5 Ammonia (25%) 7.3 ammonium carbonate 3.0 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 0.5 Guerbet alcohol 4.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 3.0 Gluadin® ^® WQ 2.0 Hydrolyzed sericin 0.3 Pearl Protein Extract BG 1.0 glutaric 0.2 Hydrotriticum ^® 2000 ⁵⁷ 0.5 perfume oil qs water ad 100

• ⁵⁶ C ₈ -C ₁₀ -alkyl glucoside with degree of oligomerization 1.6 (about 60% active substance) (COGNIS)
• ⁵⁷ wheat protein hydrolyzate (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) CRODA)

fixing Plantacare® ^® 810 UP 5.0 hardened castor oil 2.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 1.0 potassium bromate 3.5 nitrilotriacetic 0.3 citric acid 0.2 Merquat ^® 550 ⁵⁸ 0.5 Hydagen® ^® HCMF ⁵⁹ 0.5 tartaric acid 0.5 Gluadin® ^® WQ 0.5 Crodarom Pearl 2.0 Hydrolyzed sericin 0.1 pantolactone 0.3 perfume oil qs water ad 100

• ⁵⁸ Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (8% active ingredient, INCI name: Polyquarternium 7) (MOBIL OIL)
• 59 Chitosan powder (INCI name: Chitosan) (COGNIS)

In a further embodiment of the dispensing device with cosmetic fluid, the cosmetic fluid consists of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and contains merocyanines in dissolved form.

herzustellen. Dabei sollte das Merocyanin in gelöster Form vorliegen.One aspect is a cosmetic preparation with a high content of merocyanines, in particular the compound a)

manufacture. The merocyanine should be present in dissolved form.

• a) die Verbindung
  
  sowie
• b) ein oder mehrere Ölkomponenten mit einer Oberflächenspannung von kleiner/gleich 37 mN/m (bei 25 °C).

This aspect is solved by containing a cosmetic preparation

• a) the compound
  
  such as
• b) one or more oil components with a surface tension of less than or equal to 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C).

wobei diese Verbindung in einer Ölphase aus einer oder mehrerer Ölkomponenten mit einer Oberflächenspannung von kleiner/gleich 37 mN/m (bei 25°C) gelöst, mit den weiteren öllöslichen Komponenten (mit Ausnahme der Parfümstoffe) vereinigt und anschliessend mit der wässrigen Phase vermischt und homogenisiert wird.This aspect is further solved by a process for producing a cosmetic preparation containing the compound

wherein this compound in an oil phase of one or more oil components having a surface tension of less than or equal to 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C), combined with the other oil-soluble components (with the exception of the perfume) and then mixed with the aqueous phase and is homogenized.

dabei ist es vorteilhaft, wenn die kosmetische Zubereitung, das Verfahren oder die Verwendung dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass die Zubereitung die Verbindung a) in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 20 Gewichts-% und bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,5 bis 10 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zubereitung, enthält.Last but not least, this aspect is solved by the use of oil components with a surface tension of less than or equal to 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C) for the solution of merocyanines, especially the compound

It is advantageous if the cosmetic preparation, the process or the use is characterized in that the preparation comprises the compound a) in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight and preferably in a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

advantageous Embodiments are characterized in that the cosmetic preparation, the method or the use thereof are characterized in that the oil components with a surface tension of less than or equal to 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C) in the preparation in a total concentration of 1 to 50% by weight and preferred in a total concentration of 3 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation contained in this are.

Advantageous are the preferred oil components at 20 ° C and Normal pressure liquid.

Particularly preferred embodiments of the cosmetic Fuids are characterized in that the cosmetic preparation, the process or the use as oil components having a surface tension of less than or equal to 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C) one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, phenethyl benzoate, cocoglyceride, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparation, the process or the use is characterized in that the weight ratio of compound a) to the total amount of oil components having a surface tension of less than or equal to 37 imN / m (at 25 ° C.) is 1: 40 to 40: 1 and preferably from 1:20 to 20: 1.

It is advantageous if the present preparation further UV sunscreen contains.

Particularly advantageous embodiments are characterized in that the cosmetic preparation, the process or the use are characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more further UV filters selected from the group of the compounds phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäuresalze; 2-phenylbenz-imidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol); 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzyl-idencampher; ethylhexyl salicylate; Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; 4-Methoxybenzalmalon-säuredi (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxy-cinnamate; 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone;2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Hexyl 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane;homomenthyl; 2-Ethylhe xyl-2-hydroxybenzoate; 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4- (2,2-bisEthoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer; 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl) -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) ; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexylbutamidotriazone); 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having the (CAS No 288254-16-0); 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -trisbenzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino] ( p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine; titanium dioxide; Zinc oxide in a concentration of 0.01 to 40% by weight and preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Especially Advantageously, the present preparation is free of p-Methylbenzylidencampher.

Especially Advantageously, the present preparation is free of Diethylhexylnaphthalat (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from Symrise).

The Pigments (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) can also be beneficial in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous Predispersions are used. These predispersions can Advantageously dispersing agents and / or solubilization agents be added.

The Pigments (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) can advantageously be superficial be treated ("coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character formed should be or should be preserved. This surface treatment may be that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. The different Surface coatings can be used in the sense of present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings may consist of alumina (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or alumina hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexamethaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silica (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

organic Surface coatings may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and Silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials occur.

Especially Advantageously, the preferred preparation is in the form of an emulsion in front. Here are the following two embodiments On the one hand, it is advantageous if the preparation is in the form of an O / W emulsion. In this case it is particularly preferred if the preparation contains one or more O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of compounds Glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, Stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, ceteareth-20, PEG-40 contains stearate and sodium cetearyl sulfate.

These preferred O / W emulsifiers may be advantageous in one Concentration of 0 to 10% by weight and preferably in one concentration from 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation be included in this.

To the Others it is advantageous if the preparation in the form of a W / O Emulsion is present. In this case it is particularly preferred if the preparation chosen one or more W / O emulsifiers from the group of the compounds polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-3 Contains diisostearate.

These preferred W / O emulsifiers may be advantageous in one Concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably in one concentration from 0.2 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation be included in this.

The preferred formulations may also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, for example, dihydroxyactone and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Further advantageously, the preferred formulations may also contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders, and the like. Advantageous z. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP), 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester, and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester (available under the trade name insect repellent ^® 3535 from Fa. Merck). The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

When Humectants (moisturizers) become substances or mixtures of substances denotes which cosmetic preparations impart the property, after application or spreading on the skin surface the moisture release of the horny layer (also transepidermal water to reduce joss (TEWL) and / or hydration of the Horny layer to influence positively.

Advantageous humectants (moisturizers) are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soybean, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides to and / or with the aid of water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. As is available under the name fucogel ^®) in 1000 from SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for protection against skin changes, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

It is advantageous if the preferred preparation one or more Humectants in a total concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight and preferably in a total concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

The preferred cosmetic preparations may also be advantageous, though not mandatory, contain fillers which z. B. the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations continue to improve and, for example, a velvety or silky Cause or intensify skin sensation. advantageous Fillers in the context of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, Aluminum or sodium starch octenyl succinate and the like), Pigments containing neither primary UV filter nor coloring Have effect (such as boron nitride, etc.) and / or aerosils (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The Water phase of the preferred preparations may advantageously conventional contain cosmetic excipients, such as alcohols, in particular those having a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, Diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably Propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -mobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or -monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be chosen advantageously from the Group silica, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their Derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Further advantageous thickeners are permulenes TR 1, TR 2, Aristoflex AVC.

• (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1-24-Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1:1 bis 30:1 gewählt wird;
• (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengensteile so gewählt werden, dass die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)
• – im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht zyklisch ist und
• – im Bereich von 1 bis 50 [iota]mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan zyklisch ist.

The preferred formulations may also advantageously comprise one or more of the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example to increase the water resistance and / or the SPF of the products:

• (A) siloxane elastomers containing the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (as for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1 ;
• (b) siloxane elastomers insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2), which contains unsatured aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen such that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or of the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
• In the range of 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
• In the range of 1 to 50 [iota] mol%, when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageous the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of more spherical ones Powder or in the form of gels.

advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powders are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that of DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available. Especially preferred it is when the siloxane elastomer in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic Ethern or mixtures thereof is used.

Especially Advantageous preparations are also obtained when as an additive or agents used antioxidants. Preferably included the preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but nevertheless optional to use antioxidants all suitable for cosmetic applications or common antioxidants.

Especially Advantageously, water-soluble antioxidants be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

preferred Antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Provided Vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the one or more antioxidants are advantageous, their respective Concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

It is particularly advantageous when the cosmetic preparations contain cosmetic active ingredients, with preferred active ingredients antioxidants are those that can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients are natural agents and / or their derivatives, such as. Alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, Coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine and / or ss-alanine and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecenedioic acid) and / or licochalcone A.

preferred Formulations, which z. B. known anti-wrinkling agents such as flavone glycosides (especially alpha-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or Derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous to protect against aesthetically unattractive skin changes, as they are z. B. occur during skin aging (such as Dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles, itching, reduced refatting (eg after washing), visible Vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and training of wrinkles and wrinkles, local hyper, Hypo and false pigmentation (eg age spots), enlarged Susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg. Cracking) and the like). Further advantageous they are suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The cosmetic preparations may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, complexing agents, Bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing or increasing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers which improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other usual ingredients of a cosmetic or cosmetic dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

at In the preferred process it is advantageous to use the oil phase to heat, with an upper temperature limit of 85 ° C advantageous is.

• – Vermischen der erhitzten Ölphase mit einer erhitzten wässrigen Phase, anschliessendem Abkühlen und darauf folgender Zugabe der Parfümstoffe, ggf. Konservierungsmittel und weiterer temperaturempfindlicher Inhaltsstoffe.
• – Vermischen der erhitzten Ölphase mit einer auf Raumtemperatur befindlichen wässrigen Phase, anschliessendem Abkühlen und darauf folgender Zugabe der Parfümstoffe, ggf. Konservierungsmittel und weiterer temperaturempfindlicher Inhaltsstoffe
• – Vermischen der Ölphase der wässrigen Phase bei Raumtemperatur und darauf folgender Zugabe der Parfümstoffe, ggf. Konservierungsmittel und weiterer temperaturempfindlicher Inhaltsstoffe.

The oil phase can be combined with the aqueous phase in the following ways:

• - Mixing the heated oil phase with a heated aqueous phase, followed by cooling and subsequent addition of the perfume, possibly preservatives and other temperature-sensitive ingredients.
• - Mixing the heated oil phase with an aqueous phase at room temperature, followed by cooling and subsequent addition of the perfume, possibly preservatives and other temperature-sensitive ingredients
• - Mixing the oil phase of the aqueous phase at room temperature and subsequent addition of the perfume, possibly preservatives and other temperature-sensitive ingredients.

Advantageous are preparations for the care of the skin: they can the cosmetic sunscreen, also as a make-up product in the decorative Cosmetics serve.

Corresponding their structure may cosmetic compositions, for example can be used as skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the preferred ones Compositions as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations to use.

It It is also advantageous to prepare cosmetic preparations whose main purpose not protection from sunlight is, but still contain a content of UV-protective substances. So z. In day creams or make-up products, for example UV Abzw. Incorporated UV-B filter substances. Also, UV protectors, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Also favorable are cosmetic preparations which are used in the Form of a sunscreen.

Advantageous is in particular the use of the present preparation for Protection against aging (especially for protection against UV-related Skin aging) as well as sunscreen.

Advantageous For example, the present formulation has a pH of 5 to 8. This can be achieved by the conventional acids, bases and buffer systems are set.

to Application are with the inventive dispensing device the cosmetic fluids in the usual for cosmetics Applied to the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the preparation of the cosmetic fluid, without restricting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. Merocyanine compound a) 6 2 6 1 4 three Homo salad 5 1 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2 Benzophenone-3 2 2 octyl salicylate 5 2 octocrylene 1 1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine three 1 methoxycinnamate three panthenol 0.1 0.2 0.5 0.2 Vitamin AE acetate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.3 0.1 0.5 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.5 Perfume, preservative qs qs qs qs qs qs Dyes, etc. qs qs qs qs qs qs sodium hydroxide qs qs qs qs qs qs water ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 Examples of gels A B C D e F Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Alcohol Denat. 50.0 62.0 59.2 70.0 70.0 69.0 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 9.5 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 5.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 9.5 phenyl benzoate 5.0 cocoglyceride 5 Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 4.5 3.5 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 9.5 6.5 6.5 9.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Homosalate 4.5 hydroxypropyl 2 0.8 1 0.8 0.5 0.8 octocrylene 9.5 4.8 9.5 4.8 4.8 Ethylhexyltriazin 2 Benzophenone-3 three Merocyanine compound a) 1 0.5 2 three 1 5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine 1 Vitamin E acetate 0.5 0.2 glycerin 5 three Perfume, dyes qs qs qs qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Examples of sprays A B C D e F Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer 1 1 1 Acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.3 0.4 VP / VA copolymer 1.0 0.5 Alcohol Denat. 46.5 30 45.5 43.5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazines 1 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.5 2 three 4.5 Cyclomethicone 8.0 2 5 0.5 6 8th Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 2 three 4.5 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.5 7 9.5 9.5 Ethyl hexyl salicylates 4.5 4 2 4 4.5 4.5 Homosalate 9.5 5 4 8th 9.5 Octocrylene 9.5 8th 9 9.5 Merocyanine compound a) 1 0.5 2 4 2.5 three Butylene Glycol Dlcaprylate / Dicaprate 9 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2 2 phenyl benzoate 7 Phenyl trimethicone 2 5 2 2 octyldodecanol 8th glycerin 5 4 5 8th 5 5 Vitamin E acetate 0.1 0.5 Perfume, dyes qs qs qs qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

In a further embodiment of the invention Dispensing device with a cosmetic fluid becomes the cosmetic or dermatological fluid already foamed in the production and nevertheless has a sufficiently high stability, packaged, stored and sold in the usual way to be brought.

One Aspect is to find cosmetic or dermatological bases in the effective amounts of gaseous drugs work in.

• I. ein Emulgatorsystem, welches aus
• A. mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nichtneutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B. mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäureester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
• C. mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen, besteht,
• II. bis zu 30 Gew.-% – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung – einer Lipidphase,
• III. 1 bis 90 Vol.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtvolumen der Zubereitung, mindestens eines Gases, gewählt aus der Gruppe Luft, Sauerstoff, Stickstoff, Helium, Argon, Lachgas (N₂0) und Kohlendioxid(CO₂)
• IV. 0,01–10% Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer Gelbildner ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Verdickungsmitteln,
• V. 0,01–10 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren partikulären hydrophoben und/oder hydrophobisierten und/oder ölabsorbierenden Festkörpersubstanzen enthalten, die Aufgabe lösen.

It was surprising that self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which

• I. an emulsifier system, which consists of
• A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or unneutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and having a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
• C. at least one co-emulsifier C selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• II. Up to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of a lipid phase,
• III. 1 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the preparation, of at least one gas from the group air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N ₂ 0) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ )
• IV. 0.01-10% by weight of one or more gelling agents selected from the group of inorganic thickeners,
• V. 0.01-10 wt .-% of one or more particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances that solve the problem.

in the Generally, foamy cosmetic emulsions, which are characterized by a high air intake, without propellant gas not to be formulated or technically produced. This applies in particular for systems based on classical emulsifiers and gel formers based and by shear (stirring, homogenization) one Develop foam with an extraordinarily high stability. It supports the entry of the gases as well as over a longer storage life even at higher temperatures (For example, 40 ° C) a stabilizing and much nachschäumender Achieved effect, without usual Nachschäummittel such as B. to contain by propellant gases.

Of the Entry of the gases is extraordinarily increased. A foam reinforcement with up to 100% increased gas volume, for example be achieved without conventional foaming agents such as To contain surfactants.

hereby Is it possible to make recipes with an outstanding, novel cosmetic active power and with extraordinarily high gas volume (Air and / or other gases such as oxygen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, Helium, argon and the like a.) over a long storage life at high temperatures To generate temperatures stable. At the same time they are distinguished by having above average good skin care as well very good sensory properties.

Under "self-foaming" or "foamy" is to understand that the gas bubbles (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the preparations are not necessarily macroscopically Look like a foam. Preferred self-foaming and / or foamy cosmetic or dermatological Preparations may, for. B. macroscopically visible dispersed Represent systems of gases dispersed in liquids. But the foam character can, for example, only under a (Light) microscope become visible. In addition, are Self-foaming and / or foam-shaped according to the invention Preparations - especially if the gas bubbles too small to be detected under a light microscope - too recognizable by the strong volume increase of the system.

The Present compositions are superior in all respects satisfactory preparations. It was particularly surprising that the foam-like preparations- even at an unusual high gas volumes are extremely stable. Accordingly They are particularly suitable as a basis for preparation forms to serve with a variety of applications. The present Preparations show very good sensory properties, such as dispersibility on the skin or the ability to catch in the skin, and are characterized by an above-average good skin care.

• I. ein Emulgatorsystem, welches aus
• A. mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nicht neutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B. mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäureester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
• C. mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen besteht, und
• II. bis zu 30 Gew.-% einer Lipidphase, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung
• IV. 0,01–10% Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer Gelbildner ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Verdickungsmitteln,
• V. 0,01–10 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren partikulären hydrophoben und/oder hydrophobisierten und/oder ölabsorbierenden Festkörpersubstanzen enthalten, als kosmetische oder dermatologische Grundlagen für gasförmige Wirkstoffe.

Another aspect is the use of self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which

• I. an emulsifier system, which consists of
• A. at least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and having a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
• C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and
• II. Up to 30 wt .-% of a lipid phase, based on the total weight of the preparation
• IV. 0.01-10% by weight of one or more gelling agents selected from the group of inorganic thickeners,
• V. 0.01-10 wt .-% of one or more particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances, as a cosmetic or dermatological basis for gaseous drugs.

The emulsifier or emulsifiers A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which completely or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as, for example, sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine). For example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitate as well as myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.

Of the or the emulsifiers B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-2 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. For example, polyethoxylated are particularly advantageous Stearic.

The co-emulsifier (s) C according to the invention are preferably chosen from the following group: butyloctanol, butyldecanol, hexyloctanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, behenyl (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ 0H), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which are the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of wool wax obtained after saponification of wool wax). Particularly preferred are cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol.

It is advantageous, the weight ratios of emulsifier A to choose emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c where a, b and c are independently rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3. Especially preferred is a weight ratio of about 1: 1: 1.

It is advantageous, the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and the Coemulsifier C from the range of 2 to 20 wt .-%, advantageous from 5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 8 to 13 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

Especially it is preferred if the gas phase of the preparations carbon dioxide contains or consists entirely of carbon dioxide. It is special advantageous when carbon dioxide is one or the active ingredient in the preferred Preparations represents.

preferred Compositions are already developing during their Production - for example while stirring or in the homogenization - to fine-bubble foams. Preferably, fine bubble, rich foams of excellent cosmetic elegance available. Farther are particularly good skin-friendly preparations available, with valuable ingredients distributed particularly well on the skin can be.

It is optionally advantageous, although not necessary, if the formulations contain further emulsifiers. Preferably to use such emulsifiers, which for the production of W / O emulsions are suitable, these both individually and in any Combinations can exist together.

Advantageously, the further emulsifier (s) are selected from the group comprising the following compounds:
Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, glycol distearate, Glykoldilaurat, Diethylenglykoldilaurat, sorbitan trioleate, Glykololeat, glyceryl dilaurate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol laurate, Propylenglykoldistearat, sucrose distearate, PEG-3 castor oil, Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythritylsesquioleat, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl diisostearate, penterythrityl monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, glyceryl caprate, palm glycerides, cholesterol, lanolin, glyceryl oleate (with 40% monoester), polyglycerate-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, PEG-20 sorbitan beeswax, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan isostearate, trioleyl phosphate, glyceryl Stearates and Ceteareth-20 (Teginacid from Th. Goldschmidt), Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-5 Soyasterol, PEG-6 Sorbitan Beeswax, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Methyl Glucose Sequistearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sorbitan Palmitate, PEG 2 2 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl 2-PEG-4 stearate, sorbitan laurate, PEG-4 laurate, polysorbate 61, polysorbate 81, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, triceteareth-4-phosphate, triceteareth-4 phosphates, and sodium C14 17 alkyl Sec sulfonate (Hostacerin CG from Hoechst), glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearates (Arlacel 165 from ICI), polysorbate 85, trilaureth 4-phosphate, PEG-35 castor oil, sucrose stearate, trioleth-8-phosphate, C _12-15 pareth -12, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-16 Soya Sterol, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucose Distearate, PEG-40 Castor Oil, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Lecithin, Laureth-4-Phosphate, Propylene Glycol Stearate SE, PEG- 25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Stearate SE, PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, Glyceryl Oleate and Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Lanolate, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Myristate, Glyceryl Isostearate and Pollyceryl-3 Oleate, Glyceryl Laurate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, Laureth-4, Glycerol monostearate, <RTI> isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetearyl alcohol and sodium cetearyl sulfate, PEG-22 dodecylglycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, pentaerythritol isopropyl stearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, sorbitan oleate and hydrogenated castor oil, and cera alba and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate and isopropylhydroxycetyl ether , Methyl glucose sesquistearate, methyl glucose dioleate, sorbitan oleate and PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil and ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate , PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-8 Beeswax, Lau methylmethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, triethyl citrate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, polyglycerol methyl glucose distearate, poloxamer 101, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate.

Prefers be the other emulsifiers or in the sense of the present Invention selected from the group of hydrophilic emulsifiers. Particularly preferred according to the invention are mono-, di-, tri-fatty acid esters of sorbitol.

The Total amount of the further emulsifiers is advantageously smaller than 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation selected.

The List of said further emulsifiers, preferably used Of course, this should not be limiting be.

Especially advantageous self-foaming and / or foam-like Preparations are free of mono- or diglyceryl fatty acid esters.

Especially Preference is given to preparations which contain no glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, Glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl oleate, glycerylipalmitate, glyceryl myristate, Glyceryl lanolate and / or glyceryl laurate included.

The oil phase of the preferred formulations is advantageously selected from the group of nonpolar lipids having a polarity equal to or greater than 30 mN / m. Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids are those listed below. Manufacturer trade name INCI name Polarity mN / m Total SA Ecolane 130 cycloparaffin 49.1 Neste PAO NV (Lief. Hansen & Rosenthal) Nexbase 2006 FG polydecenes 46.7 Chemical Factory Taught Polysynlane Hydrogenated polyisobutenes 44.7 brave Wacker Silicone Oil AK 50 polydimethylsiloxane 46.5 EC petroleum chemistry (supplier Bayer AG) Solvent ME Isohexadecane 43.8 DEA mineral oil (Lief. Hansen & Rosenthal) Tudapetrol Pioneer 2076 Mineral oil 43.7 DEA mineral oil (Lief. Hansen & Rosenthal) Tudapetrol Pioneer 6301 Mineral oil 43.7 brave Wacker silicone oil AK 35 polydimethylsiloxane 42.4 EC petroleum chemistry GmbH isoeicosane isoeicosane 41.9 brave Wacker Silicone Oil AK 20 polydimethylsiloxane 40.9 Condea chemistry Isofol 1212 carbonate 40.3 Manufacturer trade name INCI name polarity Gattefossé Softcutol O. Ethoxydiglycol Oleate 40.5 Creaderm Lipodermanol OL Decyl Olivate 40.3 handle Cetiol S Dioctylcyclohexane 39.0 DEA mineral oil (Lief. Hansen & Rosenthal) Tudapetrol Pioneer 2071 Mineral oil 38.3 WITCO BV Hydrobrito 1000 PO Paraffin Liquidum 37.8 Goldschmidt Tegosoft HP Isocetyl palmitate 38.2 Condea chemistry Isofol Ester 1893 33.5 Condea chemistry Isofol Ester 1260 33.0 Dow Corning Dow Corning Fluid 245 cyclopentasiloxane 32.3 Unichema Prisorine 2036 Octyl isostearates 31.6 Henkel Cognis Cetiol CC Dicaprylyl carbonates 31.7 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 99 Trimethylhexyl isononanoate 31.1 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 89 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate 31.0 Unichema Estol 1540 EHC Octyl Cocoate 30.0

From The hydrocarbons are especially paraffin oil as well other hydrogenated polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and to use squalene favorably.

The Content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 30% by weight, preferably between 2.5 and 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably between 5 and 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation. It may also be advantageous, if not mandatory, if the lipid phase up to 40 wt .-% - based on the total weight the lipid phase - at polar lipids (with a polarity <20 mN / m) and / or medium polar lipids (with a polarity of 20 to 30 mN / m).

Particularly advantageous polar lipids are all native lipids, such as. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below. Manufacturer trade name INCI name Polarity mN / m Condea chemistry Isofol 14T Butyl Decanol (+) Hexyl Octanol (+) Hexyl Decanol (+) Butyl Octanol 19.8 Henkel Cognis Cetiol B Dibutyl adipate 14.3 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 488 PEG 2 diethylene hexanoates 10.1 Condea Augusta SPA Cosmacol ELI C _12-13 alkyl lactates 8.8 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 489 Diethylene Glycol Dioctanoate (/ Diisononanoate 8.6 Condea Augusta SPA Cosmacol ETI Di-C _12/13 alkyl tartrate 7.1 Henkel Cognis Emerest 2384 Propylene Glycol Monoisostearate 6.2 Henkel Cognis Myritol 331 Cocoglycerides 5.1 Unichema Prisorine 2041 GTIS Triisostearin 2.4

Particularly advantageous mid-polar lipids are those listed below. Lipochemicals INC. / USA (Induchem) Lipovol MOS-130 Tridecyl Stearate (+) Tridecyl Trimellitate (+) Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate 19.4 castor oil 19.2 CONDEA chemistry Isofol Ester 0604 19.1 Huels CONDEA chemistry Miglyol 840 Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 18.7 CONDEA chemistry Isofol 12 Butyl octanol 17.4 Goldschmidt Tegosoft SH Stearyl heptanoate 17.8 Avocadooel 14.5 Henkel Cognis Cetiol B Dibutyl adipate 14.3 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 488 PEG 2 diethylene hexanoates 10.1 Condea Augusta SPA Cosmecol ELI C _12-13 alkyl lactates 8.8 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 489 Diethylene Glycol Dioctanoate (/ Diisononanoate 8.6 Condea Augusta SPA Cosmacol ETI Di-C _12/13 alkyl tartrate 7.1 Henkel Cognis Emerest 2384 Propylene Glycol Monoisostearate 6.2 Henkel Cognis Myritol 331 Cocoglycerides 5.1 Unichema Prisorine 2041 GTIS Triisostearin 2.4 Manufacturer trade name INCI name Polarity (water) Dow Corning Dow Corning Fluid 244 cyclopolydimethylsiloxane 28.5 Nikko Chemicals Superior Jojoba Oil Gold Jojoba oil gold 26.2 brave Wacker Ak 100 Dimetikone 26.9 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 98 2-ethylhexanoic acid 3,5,5-trimethyl ester 26.2 Dow Corning Dow Corning Fluid 246 Open 25.3 Henkel Cognis Eutanol G octyldodecanol 24.8 Condea chemistry Isofol 16 Hexyl decanol 24.3 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 139 Isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoneanoate 24.5 Henkel Cognis Cetiol PGL Hexyl Decanol (+) Hexyl Decyl Laurate 24.3 Cegesoft C24 Octyl palmitate 23.1 Gattefossé MOD Octyldodeceyl myristate 22.1 Macadamia Nut Oil 22.1 Bayer AG, Dow Corning Silicone oil VP 1120 Phenyl trimethicone 22.7 CONDEA chemistry Isocarb 12 Butyl octanoic acid 22.1 Henkel Cognis isopropyl Isopropyl stearate 21.9 WITCO, Goldschmidt Finsolv TN C12-15 alkyl benzoates 21.8 Dr. Straetmans Dermofeel BGC Butylene Glycol Caprylate / Caprate 21.5 Unichema Huels Miglyol 812 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 21.3 Trivent (via S. Black) Trivent OCG tricaprylin 20.2 ALZO (ROVI) Dermol 868 PEG "diethylhexanoates / diisononanoates / ethylhexyl isononanoates 20.1

The or the inorganic thickening agents may be, for example are advantageously selected from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic Phyllosilicates.

It is quite reasonable to use pure components, however, mixtures may also be advantageously used various modified and / or unmodified phyllosilicates incorporated into the preferred compositions.

Under Layered silicates, which are also called phyllosilicates, are to understand silicates and aluminosilicates in this application in which the silicate or aluminate units over three Si-O or Al-O bonds are linked together and form a corrugated sheet or layer structure. The fourth Si-O or Al-O valence is saturated by cations. Between the individual layers exist weaker electrostatic Interactions, e.g. B. hydrogen bonds. The Layered structure, however, is largely due to strong, covalent Embossed bonds.

The stoichiometry of the leaf silicates is
(Si ₂ O ₅ ^2- ) for pure silicate structures and
(Al _m Si ² _m O ₅ ( ^{2 + m} ) ^- ) for aluminosilicates.
m is a number greater than zero and less than 2.

If there are no pure silicates but aluminosilicates, it must be borne in mind that any Si ⁴⁺ group replaced by Al ³⁺ requires another singly charged cation for charge neutralization.

The charge balance is preferably balanced by H ⁺ , alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ions. Aluminum as a counterion is known and advantageous. In contrast to the aluminosilicates, these compounds are called aluminosilicates. Also, "aluminum aluminosilicates" in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network, as well as counterion, are known and may be advantageous for the present invention.

Phyllosilicates are well documented in the literature, e.g. In the "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", AF Hollemann, E. Wiberg and N. Wiberg, 91.-100. Ed., Walter de Gruyter-Verlag 1985 , passim, as well "Lehrbuch der Anorganischen Chemie", H. Remy, 12th ed., Akademische Verlagsgeseiischaft, Leipzig 1965 , passim. The layer structure of montmorillonite is Rompps Chemie-Lexikon, Franckh'sche Verlagshandlung W. Keller & Co., Stuttgart, 8th ed., 1985, p. 2668 f. , refer to.

Examples of phyllosilicates are:
Montmorillonite Na _0.33 ((Al _1.67 Mg _0.33 ) (OH) ₂ (Si ₄ O ₁₀ ))
often simply: Al ₂ 0 ₃ · 4Si0 ₂ · H ₂ 0 or Al ₂ · nH2O [(OH) ₂ / Si ₄ O _10] nH ₂ O
Kaolinite Al ₂ (OH) ₄ (Si ₂ O ₅ )
IIl (K, H ₃ O) _y (Mg ₃ (OH) ₂ (Si _4-y Al _y O ₁₀ ))
and (K, H3O) y (Al2 (OH) 2 (Si4yAlyO10))
with y = 0.7-0.9
Beidellite (Ca, Na) _0.3 (Al ₂ (OH) ₂ (Al _0.5 Si _3.5 O ₁₀ ))
Nontronite Na _0.33 (Fe ₂ (OH) ₂ (Al _0.33 Si _3.67 O ₁₀ ))
Saponite (Ca, Na) _0.33 ((Mg, Fe) ₃ (OH) ₂ (Al _0.33 Si _3.67 O ₁₀ ))
Hectorite Na _0.33 ((Mg, Li) ₃ (OH, F) ₂ (Si ₄ O ₁₀ ))

montmorillonite represents the main mineral of naturally occurring bentonites represents.

Very advantageous inorganic gelling agents are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bento nite or stearalkonium hectorite) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum types) and sodium-magnesium silicates (Laponite types)

montmorillonite are clay minerals belonging to dioctahedral smectites and are swelling in water, but not plastic Masses. The layer packages in the three-layer structure of the montmorillonite may be due to reversible incorporation of water (in the 2-7 times the amount) u. a. Substances such. As alcohols, glycols, Pyridine, alpha-picoline, ammonium compounds, hydroxy aluminosilicate ions, etc. swell.

The above chemical formula is approximate only; as M. having a large ion-exchange capacity, Al to Mg, Fe ^{+ 2,} Fe ^{+ 3} can, Zn, Pb (z. B. of pollutants in waste waters) Cr, and Cu, and others are exchanged.

The resulting negative charge of the octahedral layers is compensated by cations, in particular Na ⁺ (Narium-montmorillonite) and Ca ²⁺ (the calcium montmorillonite is only slightly swellable) in interlayer positions.

Especially advantageous synthetic magnesium silicates or bentonites for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel distributed.

One Particularly advantageous aluminum silicate is, for example, of R.T. Vanderbilt Corp., Inc., under the trade name Veegum distributed.

The various Veegum types, all of which are advantageous according to the invention, are distinguished by the following compositions (regular grade) HV K HS S-728 Si0 ₂ 55.5 56.9 64.7 69.0 65.3 MgO 13.0 13.0 5.4 2.9 3.3 Al ₂ 0 ₃ 8.9 10.3 14.8 14.7 17.0 Fe ₂ 0 ₃ 1.0 0.8 1.5 1.8 0.7 CaO 2.0 2.0 1.1 1.3 1.3 Na ₂ O 2.1 2.8 2.2 2.2 3.8 K ₂ O 1.3 1.3 1.9 0.4 0.2 ashing 11.1 12.6 7.6 5.5 7.5 loss

These Products swell in water to form viscous gels which are alkaline react. By organophilization of montmorillonite or bentonites (Exchange of interlayer cations for quaternaries Alkylammonium ions) arise products (Bentone), the preferred for dispersion in organic solvents and oils, Greases, ointments, paints, varnishes and detergents.

Bentone ^® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents, which are composed of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special monmorillonite grades. Bentones swell in organic media and make them swell. The gels are stable in dilute acids and alkalis, but on prolonged contact with strong acids and alkalis they partly lose their gelling properties. Due to their organophilic character, the bentones are difficult to wet by water.

The following Bentone ^® grades are sold for example by the company Kronos Titan: Bentone ^® 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone ^® 34 (Dmethyldioctylammoniumbentonit) which, according to US 2,531,427 is prepared and better swells due to its lipophilic groups in the lipophilic medium than in water, Bentone ^® 38, an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream-colored to white powder, Bentone ^® LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone ^® Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite which is offered finely suspended in mineral oil (SUS-71) (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone ^® gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite which is suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86 , 7% I-sopropylmyristat, 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone ^® gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite which is received in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone ^® ( D Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmorillonite intended to be used in paste form for further processing, in particular for the manufacture of cosmetic products, 10% bentonite, 64.9 lantrol (wool wax oil), 22.0 isopropyl myristate, 3.0 Wetting agent and 0.1 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester, Bentone ^® Gel Lan I, a 10% Bentone 27 Paste ^® in a mixture of wool wax USP, and isopropyl palmitate, concretes Gel Lan II, a bentonite paste in pure liquid wool wax, Bentone ^® gel NV, a 15% Bentone 27 paste in dibutyl phthalate, Bentone ^® gel OMS, a bentonite paste in Shellsol T. Bentone ^® gel OMS 25, a bentonite paste inIsoparaffinischen hydrocarbons (Idopar e) H), Bentone ^® Ge IPP, a bentonite paste in isopropyl palmitate.

• – der modifizierten oder unmodifizierten Schichtsilikate.
• – der modifizierten Kohlenhydratderivate wie Cellulose und Cellulosederivate, mikrocristalline Cellulose, Stärke und Stärke-Derivate (Distärkephosphat, Natrium- bzw. Aluminium-Stärkeoctenylsuccinat, Weizenstärke, Maisstärke (Amidon De Mais MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Maisstärke (Corn Products), Pure-Dent (Grain Pro cessing), Purity21C (National Starch), Reisstärke (D. S. A. 7 (Agrana Stärke), Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos), Hydroxypropylstärkephosphat Distärkephosphat (Corn P04 (Agrana Stärke) Corn P04 (Tri-K)) Natriummaisstärkeoctenylsuccinat (C*EmCap-Instant 12639 (CerestarUSA)) Aluminium-Stärkeoctenylsuccinat (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr) Dry Flo-PC (National Starch) Dry Flo Pure (National Starch) Fluidamid DF 12 (Roquette))
• – der anorganischen Füllstoffe (wie Talkum, Kaolin, Zeolithe, Bornitrid)
• – der anorganischen Pigmente auf Basis von Metalloxiden und/oder anderen in Wasser schwerlöslichen bzw. unlöslichen Metallverbindungen (insb. Oxide des Titans, Zinks, Eisens, Mangans, Aluminium, Cers)
• – der anorganischen Pigmente auf Basis von Silicumoxiden (wie insbesondere die Typen Aerosil-200, Aerosil 200 V).
• – der Silikat-Derivate (wie Natrium Silicoaluminate, Magnesiumsilicate, Natrium magnesiumsilicate (Laponite-Typen), Magnesiumaluminiumsilikate (Sebumasse) oder Fluoro Magnesium Silicate (Submica-Typen), Calcium Aluminium Borsilicate). Bevorzugt ist hierbei insbesondere Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R972).

The inorganic particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group

• - the modified or unmodified phyllosilicates.
• - modified carbohydrate derivatives such as cellulose and cellulose derivatives, microcrystalline cellulose, starch and starch derivatives (distarch phosphate, sodium or aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, wheat starch, corn starch (Amidon De Mais MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand corn starch (Corn Products), Dent (Grain Pro cessing), Purity21C (National Starch), Rice Starch (DSA 7 (Agrana Starch), Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos), Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Distarch Phosphate (Corn P04 (Agrana Starch) Corn P04 (Tri-K)) Sodium corn starch octenyl succinate (C * EmCap -Instant 12639 (CerestarUSA)) Aluminum-starch octenylsuccinate (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr) Dry Flo-PC (National Starch) Dry Flo Pure (National Starch) Fluidamide DF 12 (Roquette))
• - inorganic fillers (such as talc, kaolin, zeolites, boron nitride)
• The inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds (especially oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, manganese, aluminum, cerium)
• - The inorganic pigments based on Silicumoxiden (in particular the types Aerosil-200, Aerosil 200 V).
• - Silicate derivatives (such as sodium silicoaluminates, magnesium silicates, sodium magnesium silicate (Laponite types), magnesium aluminum silicates (sebum) or fluoro magnesium silicates (submicron types), calcium aluminum borosilicates). Silica dimethyl silylates (Aerosil R972) is particularly preferred here.

Microcrystalline cellulose is an advantageous solid substance in the sense of the present invention. It is available, for example from the "FMC Corporation Food and pharmceutical Products" under the trade name Avicel ^®. A particularly advantageous product according to the present invention is the type Avicel ^® RC-591, which is a modified microcrystalline cellulose composed of 89% microcrystalline cellulose and 11% of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose. Other commercial products from this class of raw materials are Avicel ^® RC / CL, Avicel ^® CE 15, Avicel ^® 500th

Further advantageous oil-absorbing solids are microspherical particles based on cross-linked polymethyl methacrylates (INCI: Crosslinked Methyl Methacrylates). These are sold by SEPPIC under the trade name Micropearl ^® M305, Micro Pearl ^® 201, Micro Pearl ^® M 310 and Micro Pearl ^® MHB and are characterized by an oil absorption capacity of 40-100 g / 100 g.

Aerosils® (fumed silica) = obtained by thermal decomposition of ethyl silicate Silica) are highly dispersed silicas with frequent irregular shape, their specific surface usually very large (200-400 m2 / g) and dependent can be controlled by the Hestellverfahren.

Aerosils particularly advantageous to be used are for example available under the trade names: Aerosil ^® 130 (Degussa Huls) Aerosil ^® 200 (Degussa Huls) Aerosil ^® 255 (Degussa Huls) Aerosil ^® 300 (Degussa Huls) Aerosil ^® 380 (Degussa Huls) B6C (Suzuki Vushi) CAB-O-SIL Furned Silica (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL EH-5 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL HS-5 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL LM-130 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL MS-55 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL M5 (Cabot) E-6C (Suzuki Vushi) Fossil Flour MBK (MBK) MSS-500 (Kobo) Neosil CT 11 (Crosfield Co.) Ronasphere (Rona / EM Industries) Silica , Anhydrous 31 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels) Silica, Crystalline 216 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels) Silotrat-1 (Vevy) Sorbosil AC33 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC 35 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC 37 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC 39 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC77 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil TC 15 (Crosfield Co.) Spherica (Ikeda) Spheriglass (Potters-Baliotini) Spheron L-1500 (Preserved) Spheron N2000 (Preserved) Spheron P-1500 (Presperse) Presperse) Wakker HDK H 30 (Wacker-C Wacker HDK N 20 (Wacker Silicones) Wacker HDK N 20P (Wacker chemistry) Wacker HDK N 25P (Wacker chemistry) Wacker HDK S 13 (Wacker chemistry) Wacker HDK T 30 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK V 15 (Wacker Chemie) Wacker HDK V 15 P (Wacker-Chemie) Zelec Sil (DuPont)

It is furthermore advantageous to use those SiO ₂ pigments in which the free OH groups on the particle surface have been organically (wholly or partly) organically modified. You get z. B. (by the addition of dimethylsilyl groups Silica dimethyl silylate z. B. Aerosil ^® R972 (Degussa Huls) Aerosil ^® R974 (Degussa Huls) CAB-O-SIL TS610 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (Cabot ) Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker-Chemie)). By the addition of trimethylsilyl groups Silica silylate (z. B. Aerosil ^® R 812 (DegussaHüls) CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot) Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Huls) Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker Chemie)) is obtained.

polymethylsilsesquioxane For example, under the tradenames Tospearl 2000 13 of GE Bayer Silikones, Tospearl 145A from Toshiba, AEC Silicon Licin Resin Spheres from A & E Connock or Wacker-Belsil PMS MK offered by Wacker-Chemie.

The preferred cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations can be composed as usual. Especially advantageous are preparations for the care of the skin: they can the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, further to Treatment of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in to serve the decorative cosmetics. A further advantageous embodiment consists in after-sun products.

Corresponding Their composition may be cosmetic or topical dermatological Compositions according to the present invention, for example can be used as skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to the present Compositions as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations to use.

As well like emulsions of liquid and solid consistency as cosmetic cleansing lotions or cleansing creams use The preferred formulations may also be "cleaning foams", which, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash foam - possibly also for impure Skin - can be used. Such cleaning foams can also be advantageous as a so-called "rinse off "preparations are used, which after the application are rinsed off the skin The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations may also be beneficial in Form of a foam for the care of the hair or the scalp, especially a foam for inserting the hair, a foam, used to blow dry hair, a hairdressing and treatment foam.

to Application are the preferred cosmetic and dermatological Preparations in the usual way for cosmetics Applied to the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations contain cosmetic excipients, as they usually do be used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, Pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers containing the Improve skin sensation, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological Such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

advantageous Preservatives are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as z. DMDM hydantoin), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (e.g. the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Conc. LMB of available from Lonza), parabens, phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually The preservation system according to the invention furthermore advantageously comprises also preservatives, such as octoxyglycerol, glycines Soy etc.

Especially advantageous preparations are also obtained if, as additional or agents used antioxidants. According to the invention the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but nevertheless optional to use antioxidants can all be for cosmetic and / or dermatological Applications suitable or common antioxidants be used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg alpha-carotene, 13-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, Homocysteine sulfoximine, bisthionine sulfone, Penta-, hexa-, heptathionine-sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), alpha- Hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin apalmitate ) as well as Konyferylbenzoat of Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure and their derivatives, Ferulasäure and their derivatives, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and their derivatives, Mannose and their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg. ZnO, ZnSO 4) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives according to the invention which are suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said active substances.

Especially Advantageously, water-soluble antioxidants be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

A amazing property of the preferred preparations is that This very good vehicle for cosmetic or dermatological Active ingredients in the skin, with preferred active substances being antioxidants, which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Provided Vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the one or more antioxidants are advantageous, their respective Concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

Preferably, the active compounds (one or more compounds) can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. Hydrocotisone 17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, vitamin B1 very favorably, the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ₁ , as well as bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example PurCellin, Eucerit ^® and Neocerit® ^®.

Especially Advantageously, the active substance (s) are further selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, especially if the present Preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for treatment and prophylaxis the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation to serve the skin.

preferred NO synthase inhibitor is the nitroarginine.

Further Advantageously, the active substance or substances are selected the group of catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts of plants or Plant parts comprising a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Particularly advantageous are their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, Vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

catechins represent a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechin" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) chroman-3,5,7-triol) represent. Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the context of the present invention.

Advantageous are herbal extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., whole especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example Camellia japonica.

preferred Active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Also, flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are beneficial agents within the meaning of the present invention. They are identified by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also be used preferably in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the following table: OH substitution positions three 5 7 8th' 2 ' 3 ' 4 ' 5 ' Flavon - - - - - - - - flavonol + - - - - - - - Chrysin - + + - - - - - galangin + + + - - - - - apigenin - + + - - - + - fisetin + - + - - + + - luteolin - + + - - + + - kaempferol + + + - - - + - quercetin + + + - - + + - Morin + + + - + - + - robinetin + - + - - + + + gossypetin + + + + - + + - myricetin + + + - - + + +

In In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₇ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxy sowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.The flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and unbranched and have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₆ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxy- sowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.However, according to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and unbranched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent individually or jointly saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Advantageously, Z ₁ to Z _{5 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

Particularly advantageous are the preferred flavone glycosides from the group, which are represented by the following structure:

Wherein Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent individually or jointly saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Especially it is advantageous to choose the flavone glycoside (s) from the group alpha-glucosylrutin, alpha-glucosylmyricetin, alpha-glucosylisoquercitrin, alpha-glucosylisoquercetin and alpha-glucosylquercitrin.

Especially particularly preferred is alpha-glucosylrutin.

Especially also advantageous are naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, Hespretin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, Quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutane, rutabion, taurutine, phytomelin, Melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-0- (6-deoxy-aL-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside )), Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-0- (6-de-oxy-aL-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Dihydrorobinetine (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), Flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

Advantageous it is also, the active substance or substances from the group of ubiquinones and to choose plastoquinones.

aus und stellen die am weitesten verbreiteten und damit am besten untersuchten Biochinone dar. Ubichinone werden je nach Zahl der in der Seitenkette verknüpften Isopren Einheiten als Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 usw. oder nach Anzahl der C-Atome als U-5, U-10, U-15 usw. bezeichnet. Sie treten bevorzugt mit bestimmten Kettenlängen auf, z. B. in einigen Mikroorganismen und Hefen mit n = 6. Bei den meisten Säugetieren einschliesslich des Menschen überwiegt Q10.Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are labeled as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc., or as the number of C atoms as U -5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 is predominant.

Particularly advantageous is coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

auf. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden endsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiediichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are termed endsprechend, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active ingredients in the context of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

preferred Derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Kreatinascorbat and those at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional Alcohols esterified derivatives.

wobei R gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylreste mit bis zu 10 Kohlenstoffatomen sind vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe. Bevorzugt sind Propionylcarnitin und insbesondere Acetylcarnitin. Beide Entantiomere (D- und L-Form) sind vorteilhaft zu verwenden. Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, beliebige Enantiomerengemische, beispielsweise ein Racemat aus D- und L-Form, zu verwenden.Another beneficial agent is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butyric-betaine]. Also acyl-carnitines, which are selected from the group of substances of the following general Strukturfor mel

wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous agents. Preference is given to propionyl carnitine and in particular acetyl carnitine. Both enantiomers (D and L form) are advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous to use any mixtures of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Further advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The List of active substances or combinations of active substances, which can be used in the preferred preparations Of course, this should not be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with each other be used.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von (Trockenheits-)Fältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach dem Waschen).

Skin aging is z. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In epidermis and dermis it comes due to aging z. As to the following structural damage and dysfunction, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of (dryness) wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) diminished fatty acid replenishment (eg after washing).

• d) Sichtbare Gefässerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• e) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• f) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken) und
• g) vergrösserte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can be cumulatively effective and z. B. accelerate the endogenous aging processes or supplement them. In epidermis and dermis it comes in particular by exogenous factors z. As to the following structural damage and dysfunction in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage in chronological aging:

• d) Visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis);
• e) slackness and formation of wrinkles;
• f) local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentation (eg age spots) and
• g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

Amazingly, The selected recipes can also have an anti-wrinkle effect or the effect of known anti-wrinkle agents significantly increase. Accordingly, the formulations are particularly suitable advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological Skin changes, such as B. occur during skin aging. Furthermore, they are advantageous against the appearance dry or rough skin.

In a particular embodiment is the cosmetic fluid suitable for the care of naturally aged Skin, as well as for the treatment of consequential damages of photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

The Water phase of the preferred preparations may advantageously conventional contain cosmetic excipients, such as alcohols, in particular those having a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, Diols or polyols lower C number and their ethers, preferably Propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers.

When Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances, which cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property give, after application or distribution on the skin surface the Moisturizing the horny layer (also transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydration of the horny layer positively influence.

Advantageous are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Further is It is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel 1000 by the company SOLABIA SA is available.

The preferred cosmetic and dermatological preparations may contain dyes and / or colored pigments, especially if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Examples of advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971. Chemical or other name CIN colour Pigment Green 10006 green Acid Green 1 10020 green 2,4-Dinitrohydroxynaphthalin-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellow Pigment Yellow 1 11680 yellow Pigment Yellow 3 11710 yellow Pigment Orange 1 11725 orange 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene 11920 orange Solvent Red 3 12010 red 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 12085 red Pigment Red 3 12120 red Ceresrot; Sudan Red; Fat Red G 12150 red Pigment Red 112 12370 red Pigment Red 7 12420 red Pigment Brown 1 12480 brown 4- (2'-methoxy-5'-sulfosäurediethylamid-1'-phenylazo) -3- 12490 red hydroxy-5 "-chloro-2", 4 "-dimethoxy-2-naphthoic anilide Disperse Yellow 16 12700 yellow 1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -4-aminobenzene-5-sulfonic acid 13015 yellow 2,4-dihydroxy-azobenzene-4'-sulfonic acid 14270 orange 2- (2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfonic acid) -1-hydroxy- 14700 red naphthalene-4-sulfonic acid Chemical or other name CIN colour 2- (4-Suifo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid 14720 red 2- (6-sulfo-2,4-xylylazo) -1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 red 1- (4'-sulfophenylazo) -2-hydroxy-naphthalene 15510 orange 1- (2-sulfonic acid 4-chloro-5-carboxylic acid-l-phenylazo) - 15525 red 2-hydroxy-naphthalene 1- (3-methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfonic acid) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15580 red 1- (4 ', (8') - Sulfosäurenaphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 red 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid 15630 red 3-hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 red 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850 red 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxy- 15865 red naphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 red 1- (3-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange 1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow Allura Red 16035 red 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 red Acid Orange 10 16230 orange 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid 16255 red 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290 red 8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 17200 red Acid Red 1 18050 red Acid Red 155 18130 red Acid Yellow 121 18690 yellow Acid Red 180 18736 red Acid Yellow 11 18820 yellow Acid Yellow 17 18965 yellow 4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy- 19140 yellow pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid Pigment Yellow 16 20040 yellow 2,6- (4'-sulfo-2 '', 4 '' - dimethyl) bis-phenylazo) -1,3- 20170 orange dihydroxybenzene Acid Black 1 20470 black Pigment Yellow 13 21100 yellow Chemical or other name CIN colour Pigment Yellow 83 21108 yellow Solvent Yellow 21230 yellow Acid Red 163 24790 red Acid Red 73 27290 red 2- [4 '- (4''-sulfo-1''- phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo] - 127755 black hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid 4 '- [(4''-sulfo-1''- phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo] -1- 28440 black hydroxy-8-acetyl-aminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid Direct Orange 34, 39,44,46,60 40215 orange Food Yellow 40800 orange tans-β-apo-8'-carotenaldehyde (C30) 40820 orange trans-apo-8'-carotenoic acid (C30) ethyl ester 40825 orange canthaxanthin 40850 orange Acid Blue 1 42045 blue 2,4-disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4 '' - bis (diethylamino) 42051 blue triphenyl-carbinol 4 - [(4-N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) -phenyl- (4-hydroxy-) 42053 green 2-sulfophenyl) - (methylene) -1- (N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl) -2,5- cyclohexadieneimine] Acid blue 7 42080 blue (N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzyl-amino) -phenyl- (2-sulfophenyl) - 42090 blue methylene (N-ethyl-N, p-sulfo-benzyl) A ^2,5 -cyclohexadienimine Acid Green 9 42100 green Diethyl-di-sulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl- 42170 green fuchsonim-monium Basic Violet 14 42510 violet Basic Violet 2 42520 violet 2'-methyl-4 '- (N-ethyl-Nm-sulfobenzyl) amino-4''- 42735 blue (N-diethyl) -amino-2-methyl-N-ethylNM-sulfobenzyl -fuchsonimmonium 4 '- (N-Dimethyl) amino-4''- (N-phenyl) -aminonaphtho- 44045 blue N-dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium 2-hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bis-dimethylaminonaphtho 44090 green fuchsonimmonium Chemical or other name CIN colour Acid Red 52 45100 red 3- (2'-methylphenylamino) -6- (2'-methyl-4'- 45190 violet sulfophenylamino) -9- (2 '' - carboxyphenyl) - xantheniumsalz Acid Red 50 45220 red Phenyl-2-oxyfluoron-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow 4.5-Dibromofluorescein 45370 orange 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein 45380 red Solvent dye 45396 orange Acid Red 98 45405 red 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromfluorescein 45410 red 4.5-Diiodfluorescein 45425 red 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein 45430 red quinophthalone 47000 yellow Quinophthalone disulphonic 47005 yellow Acid Violet 50 50325 violet Acid Black 2 50420 black Pigment Violet 23 51319 violet 1,2-dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex 58000 red 3-Oxypyren-5,8,10-sulfonic acid 59040 green 1-hydroxy-4-N-phenyl-aminoanthraquinone 60724 violet 1-hydroxy-4- (4'-methylphenylamino) anthraquinone 60725 violet Acid Violet 23 60730 violet 1,4-di (4'-methylphenylamino) anthraquinone 61565 green 1,4-bis (o-sulfo-p-toluidino) anthraquinone 61570 green Acid Blue 80 61585 blue Acid Blue 62 62045 blue N, N'-dihydro-1,2,1 ', 2'-anthrachinonazin 69800 blue Vat Blue 6; Pigment Blue 64 69825 blue Vat Orange 7 71105 orange indigo 73000 blue Indigo-disulfonic 73015 blue 4,4'-dimethyl-6,6'-dichlorothioindigo 73360 red 5,5'-dichloro-7,7'-dimethylthioindigo 73385 violet Chemical or other name CIN colour Quinacridone Violet 19 73900 violet Pigment Red 122 73915 red Pigment Blue 16 74100 blue phthalocyanines 74160 blue Direct Blue 86 74180 blue Chlorinated phthalocyanines 74260 green Natural Yellow6, 19; Natural Red 1 75100 yellow Bixin, nor-bixin 75120 orange lycopene 75125 yellow trans-alpha, beta or gamma-carotene 75130 orange Keto and / or hydroxyl derivatives of carotene 75135 yellow Guanine or pearlescent 75170 white 1,7-bis (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) 1,6-heptadiene 75300 yellow 3,5-dione Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of karmic acid 75470 red Chlorophyll a and b; Copper compounds of 75810 green Chlorophylls and chlorophyllins aluminum 77000 White alumina hydrate 77002 White Water-containing aluminum silicates 77004 White ultramarine 77007 blue Pigment Red 101 and 102 77015 red barium sulfate 77120 White Bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica 77163 White calcium carbonate 77220 White Calcium sulphate ' 77231 White carbon 77266 black Pigment Black 9 77267 black Carbo medicinalis vegetabilis 77268: 1 black chromium 77288 green Chromium oxide, hydrous 77289 green Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green 14 77346 green Pigment Metal 2 77400 brown gold 77480 brown Chemical or other name CIN colour Iron oxides and hydroxides 77489 orange iron oxide 77491 red iron oxide 77492 yellow iron oxide 77499 black Mixtures of iron (11) - and iron (111) - 77510 blue hexacyanoferrate Pigment White 18 77713 White Mangananimoniumdiphosphat 77742 violet Manganese phosphate; Mn ₃ (PO ₄ ) ₂ 7 H ₂ O 77745 red silver 77820 White Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 White zinc oxide 77947 White 6,7-dimethyl-9 (1'-D-ribityl) -isoalloxazine, lactoflavin yellow caramel brown Capsanthin, Capsorubin orange betanin red Benzopyrylium salts, anthocyanins red Aluminum, zinc, magnesium and calcium stearate White Bromthymolblau blue bromocresol green Acid Red 195 red

Provided the preferred formulations are in the form of products, which are applied in the face, it is convenient than Dye one or more substances from the following group 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, Calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, Calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, Calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, Aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, Aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt indigo-disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77,491 (red) and 77,499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Further advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as z. As paprika extracts, 13-carotene or cochineal.

• 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B. ”Fischsilber” (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und ”Perlmutt” (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
• 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCI)
• 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid Basis für Perlglanzpigmente sind beispielsweise pulverförmige Pigmente oder Ricinusöldispersionen von Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid sowie Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid auf Glimmer. Insbesondere vorteihaft ist z. B. das unter der CIN 77163 aufgelistete Glanzpigment.

Also advantageous are formulations with a content of pearlescent pigments. Particularly preferred are the types of pearlescent pigments listed below:

• 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. Eg "fish-silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3rd layer substrate pigments: z. B. Mica / metal oxide base for pearlescent pigments are, for example, powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. In particular vorteihaft z. For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.

Also advantageous, for example, are the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide: group Coating / colour Silver-white pearlescent pigments TiO ₂ : 40-60 nm ' silver interference pigments TiO ₂ : 60-80 nm yellow TiO ₂ : 80-100 nm red TiO ₂ : 100-140 nm blue TiO ₂ : 120-160 nm green Color Luster Pigments Fe ₂ O ₃ bronze group Coating / colour Fe ₂ O ₃ copper Fe ₂ O ₃ red Fe ₂ O ₃ rotviolett Fe ₂ O ₃ Red Green Fe ₂ O ₃ black combination pigments TiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ golds TiO ₂ / Cr ₂ O ₃ green TiO ₂ / Cr ₂ O ₃ green TiO ₂ / Berlin Blue deep blue TiO ₂ / Carmine red

Especially preferred are z. As the Merck under the trade name Pearlescent pigments available from Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

The List of said pearlescent pigments is of course not limiting.

Advantageous pearlescent pigments are obtainable in numerous known ways. For example, other substrates except mica can be coated with other metal oxides such. As silica and the like. Advantageous z. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronasphren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It may also be beneficial, entirely to dispense with a substrate like mica. Especially preferred are iron pearlescent pigments which, without the use of mica getting produced. Such pigments are z. B. under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 available from BASF.

Especially Also advantageous are also effect pigments which are sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles lie in mixtures with different ones Auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The Dyes and pigments can be used individually as well be present in a mixture and be mutually coated with each other, wherein by different coating thicknesses in general different color effects are caused. The total amount of Dyes and coloring pigments will be beneficial in the field from Z. From 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15 Wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-% chosen, respectively based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is also beneficial cosmetic and dermatological preparations to create, whose main purpose is not protection is sunlight, but still contains a content of UV-protective substances contain. So z. In day creams or make-up products usually UV-A resp. Incorporated UV-B filter substances. Also, UV protectors, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective Protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Favorable are also cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which in in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly contain the preparations preferably in addition to one or more UV filter substances additionally at least one more UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations can, although not necessary, optionally also one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble in water or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), Aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

Such Pigments can advantageously be treated superficially ("Coated"), for example, an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character are formed or retained should. This surface treatment can consist of that the pigments with a thin according to known methods be provided hydrophobic layer.

Particularly advantageous z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are aluminum stearate coated with TiO ₂ pigments, z. As those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.

A further advantageous coating of inorganic pigments of dimethyl polysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers terminated with trimethylsiloxy units are blocked. Particularly advantageous are zinc oxide pigments, the be coated in this way.

Advantageous is further a coating of the inorganic pigments with a Mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, especially dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, also called simethicone referred to as. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic Pigments in addition with aluminum hydroxide or alumina hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2) are coated. Especially Titanium dioxides which are coated with simethicone and alumina are advantageous are, wherein the coating can also contain water. An example this is under the trade name Eusolex T2000 The company Merck available titanium dioxide.

gekennzeichnet ist und unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.Advantageous organic pigment in the context of the present invention is 2,2'-methyl-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazole], which is represented by the chemical structural formula

characterized and CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH available under the trade name Tinosorb M ^® in.

Advantageous the preparations contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, especially 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of preparations to cosmetic preparations for To provide that the hair or the skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydi-benzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol 1789 and from Merck ^® sold under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz

mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

advantageous UV filter substances are also so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

wobei R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen bzw. ein einzelnes Wasserstoffatom darstellen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1, 3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives having the following structure:

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unreacted represent branched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - {[4- (ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine), which CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S in.

Especially advantageous preparations characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV-A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [e.g. the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) 1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

aufweisen, sind vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen, beispielsweise die in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1 beschriebenen s-Triazinderivate, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel

wiedergegeben wird, wobei
R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppen, darstellt,
X ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe darstellt,
R¹ einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der Formel

bedeutet, in welcher
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppen,
R₃ ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt,
n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,
R₂ einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppen, dar stellt, wenn X die NH-Gruppe darstellt, und einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der Formel

bedeutet, in welcher
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppen,
R₃ ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt,
n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,
wenn X ein Sauerstoffatom darstellt.Other UV filter substances, which are the structural motif

have advantageous UV filter substances, for example, those in the European published patent application EP 570 838 A1 described s-triazine derivatives, their chemical structure by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein
R is a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R ^{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula

means in which
A is a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, represents when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or a plurality of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which
A is a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

wiedergegeben wird, welches im Folgenden auch als Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) bezeichnet wird und unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist.A particularly preferred UV filter substance is also an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine whose chemical structure is represented by the formula

which is also referred to below as Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB in Sigma 3V.

Also advantageous is a symmetrically substituted s triazine, the 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexylester), synonymous: 2,4,6-Tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which was sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name Uvinul ^® T is marketed 150th

wiedergegeben wird, wobei R₁, R₂ und A₁ verschiedenste organische Reste repräsentieren.Also in the European Patent Application 775,698 are preferably used bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate described their chemical structure by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous are the 2,4-bis {4- (3-sulfonato-2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl) -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2 , 4-bis [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2, 4-Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-metoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2 , 4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxpropyloxy) -2-hydro xy] -phenyl) -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, which is 2, bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxy-phenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 '' - methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl) -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 '' -methypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl) -6- (4-meth-oxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

gekennzeichnet ist und unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous broad band filter is the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is represented by the chemical structural formula

and available under the trade name Tinosorb M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

gekennzeichnet ist.A further advantageous broadband filter is 2- (2benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(tri-methylsilyl) oxy] disilxanyl ] propyl] -phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is represented by the chemical structural formula

is marked.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for. B .:
3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and UV-bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are z. B .:
Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further particularly advantageously used sunscreen filter substance is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul N 539 and has the following structure:

It may also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations, in particular those as described in US Pat WO-A-92/20690 to be discribed.

Further it may optionally be advantageous to further UV-A and / or UV-B filters to incorporate into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The List of mentioned UV filters that can be used Of course, this should not be limiting.

Advantageous For example, the preferred formulations contain the substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount from Z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the preparations to make cosmetic preparations available to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present compositions without limiting them. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. Example 1 (foamy O / W cream): Emulsion 1 Wt .-% Vol .-% stearic acid 3.00 cetyl alcohol 8.50 PEG-20 Stearate 8.50 talc 2.00 SiO ₂ 2.00 polyacrylic acid 0.20 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.50 paraffin oil 5.00 Isohexadecan 2.00 glycerin 5.00 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5-7.5 Emulsion I 70 nitrogen 30

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the heated to 75 ° C fatty phase with the heated to 70 ° C water phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. Stirring for 45 minutes with gassing with nitrogen at 0.7 bar and cooling. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 27 ° C. Example 2 (foamy O / W lotion): Emulsion II Wt .-% Vol .-% stearic acid 2.00 Myristylalcohol 1.50 Cetylstearylalcohol 0.50 PEG-100 stearate 3.00 Microcrystalline cellulose 0.05 polyacrylic acid 0.20 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.20 mineral oil 5.00 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 15.0 glycerin 3.00 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.5 Emulsion II 50 Gas (carbon dioxide) 50

predispersal of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid under Stirring in the water phase. Association of at 80 ° C heated fat phase with the heated to 72 ° C water phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobicized Solid substances with stirring. homogenization by means of a sprocket dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. Stirring for 45 minutes while gassing with carbon dioxide at 1.2 bar and cooling.

Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume). Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 30 ° C. Example 3 (foamy O / W lotion): Emulsion III Wt .-% Vol .-% stearic acid 5.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 5.50 PEG-30 Stearate 1.00 Aluminum starch octenyl 3.00 Al ₂ O ₃ 0.50 talc 0.50 polyurethane 0.10 Polyacrylmethacrylat 0.10 magnesium silicate 0.10 cellulose gum 0.10 cyclomethicone 3.00 isoeicosane 10.00 polydecene 10.00 citric acid 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservative, qs sodium hydroxide qs Dyes etc. qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5 Emulsion III 65 Gas (air) 35

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloids with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the heated to 80 ° C fatty phase with the heated to 75 ° C water phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring in a of fenen boiler up to 30 ° C. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 25 ° C. Example 4 (Foam O / W Emulsion Makeup): Emulsion IV Wt .-% Vol .-% palmitic 2.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 PEG-100 stearate 2.00 polyacrylic acid 0.10 Aluminum starch octenyl 0.05 manioc 0.05 zeolites 0.75 kaolin 4.50 dimethicone 0.50 paraffin oil 9.50 dicaprylyl 2.00 glycerin 3.00 mica 1.00 iron oxides 1.00 Titanium dioxide 4.50 Vitamin A palmitate 0.10 hectorite 0.10 polyacrylic acid 0.15 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5 Emulsion IV 37 Gas (oxygen) 63

predispersal the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid under Stirring in the water phase. Association of the at 78 ° C heated fat and pigment phase with the heated to 75 ° C water phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobicized Solid substances with stirring.

homogenization by means of a sprocket dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. Stir in Becomix for 45 min with fumigation with oxygen at 1.3 bar with cooling to 30 ° C.

Addition of the aluminum starch octenyl succinate, the manioc starch of the perfume and the active ingredients at 30 ° C. Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 25 ° C. Example 5 (foamy O / W cream): Emulsion V Wt .-% Vol .-% stearic acid 4.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 PEG-30 Stearate 2.00 sorbitan 1.50 paraffin oil 5.00 cyclomethicone 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 retinyl palmitate 0.20 glycerin 3.00 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10 polyurethane 0.10 Carboxymethylcellolose 0.05 polyacrylic acid 0.10 Quaternium-18 hectorite 0.20 Magnsiumaluminiumsilikate 0.10 Perfume, preservative, qs dyes qs potassium hydroxide qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0 Emulsion V 43 Gas (nitrous oxide) 57

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the heated to 80 ° C fatty phase with the heated to 75 ° C water phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. Stirred in Becomix for 45 min while gassing with nitrous oxide at 0.7 bar while cooling to 30 ° C. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 26 ° C. Example 6 (foam OIW lotion): emulsion Wt .-% Vol .-% stearic acid 4.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 1.00 distarch 0.50 paraffin oil 6.50 dimethicone 0.50 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 glycerin 3.00 carboxymethylcellulose 0.05 polyacrylic acid 0.10 wheat starch 0.10 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.50 Perfume, preservative, Dyes etc. qs sodium hydroxide qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5 Emulsion VI 35 Gas (argon) 65

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloids with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the heated to 78 ° C fatty phase with the heated to 75 ° C water phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. Stir in Becomix for 45 min with argon sparging at 1 bar while cooling to 30 ° C. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization by means of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine (rotor-stator principle) at 23 ° C. Example 7 (foamy sunscreen cream): Emulsion VII Wt .-% Vol .-% stearic acid 1.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 4.00 myristyl 1.00 boron nitride 1.00 kaolin 0.50 Silicadimethylsilylat 1.50 PEG-20 Stearate 1.00 Acrylate / C _10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 hectorite 0.20 Quaternium-18 hectorite 12:10 Caprylic / capric 2.00 paraffin oil 15.50 dimethicone 0.50 isostearate 5.00 glycerin 3.00 octyl 4.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservative, qs Dyes, etc. qs potassium hydroxide q. s water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.0 Emulsion VII 35 Gas (helium) 65

predispersal of the inorganic gelling agent (hectorite) and swelling of the hydrocolloids while stirring in the water phase. Predispersion of Quaternium 18 hectorite in the hot fat phase. Association of heated to 78 ° C. Fat / sunscreen filter phase heated to 75 ° C Water / sunscreen phase. Addition of the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances under Stir. Homogenization by means of a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine (Rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. Stirring for 45 min in Becomix with fumigation with helium at 1 bar with cooling at 30 ° C.

encore the additive at 30 ° C (perfume). homogenization by means of a sprocket dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 23 ° C.

1

dispenser

2

liquid

3

container

4

first component

5

second component

6

section

7

edge

8th

pump room

9

intake valve

10

outlet valve

11

valve flap

12

inlet port

13

biasing member

14

valve element

15

connecting channel

16

output channel

17

jet

18

connecting branch

19

suction

20

actuating section

21

bottom section

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 3929973 A [0069, 0723]
• - EP 0612759 B1 [0086, 0725]
• WO 92/13829 [0133, 0260, 0604]
• - FR 2252840 A [0246]
• - DE 4009347 a [0478]
• - DE 3740186 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 3938140 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 4204321 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 4229707 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 4309372 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 4411664 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19541967 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19543695 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19543696 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19547160 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19602108 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19602110 [0479, 0581]
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• - DE 19631003 [0479, 0581]
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• - DE 4429467 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 4423410 [0479, 0581]
• - DE 19516705 [0479, 0581]
• DE 4009347A [0580]
• DE 19756454 [0678]
• - DE 3725030 A [0681]
• - DE 3723354 A [0681]
• - DE 3926344 A [0681]
• - DE 19736906 [0681]
• - EP 0561825 B1 [0681]
• - EP 0561999 B1 [0681]
• - DE 4204700 A1 [0681]
• EP 0690044 [0681]
• - DE 19738866 [0685]
• US 1985424 [0686]
• - US 2016962 [0686]
• US 2703798 [0686]
• WO 92/06984 [0686]
• - DE 4413686 [0707, 0709]
• - GB 2104091 [0722]
• - EP 47714 [0722]
• - EP 217274 [0722]
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• US 3753968 [0751]
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• US 2531427 [0880]
• - EP 570838 A1 [0965]
• - EP 775698 [0968]
• WO 92/20690 A [0975]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0088]
• - Ullmanns Enzyklopadie der technischen Chemie, 4th Edition, Volume 24, page 3 [0273]
• - K. Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, Dr. med. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg [0278]
• - "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", Seventh Edition, Volume 2 in the section "Surfactants-Emulsifying Agents" [0316]
• - 'International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook', 7th Edition, Volume 2 in the section 'Surfactants' [0334]
• - SÖFW-Journal, 124th year, 5/98, pages 308 to 313 [0366]
• - SÖFW-Journal, 118th year, 5/92, pages 287 to 296 [0366]
• - page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the industry association body care and detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt [0613]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0629]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0629]
• - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0634]
• - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308 , John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0643]
• - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308 , John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0651]
• - H.- D. Dörfler, Grenzflächen und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 [0680]
• - AK Biswas et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) [0681]
• - FU Ahmed in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 67, 8 (1990) [0681]
• Biermann et al. in Starch / Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm. Toil. 108, 89 (1993) [0685]
• J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) [0685]
• - H. Kelkenberg is found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988) [0686]
• - H. -D. Dörfler, interfaces and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 [0698]
• - Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 [0700]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0710]
• - KH Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989 [0757]
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Claims (20)

Dispensing device ( 1 ), in particular pump, with a preferably cosmetic fluid ( 2 ) which can be dispensed by spraying and / or non-spraying, characterized in that the fluid ( 2 ) is selected from: - a single-phase solution; A mixture with several immiscible liquid phases; An oil-in-water emulsion; - a water-in-oil emulsion. Dispensing device according to claim 1, characterized in that that the solution at least one film-forming and / or Firming polymer, a protic solvent, - preferably Water and / or alcohols -, optionally 1,2 alkanediols, optionally surfactants, optionally gel formers or thickeners, preferably gel-forming acrylate thickener - optionally oil and fatty components, optionally a UV filter, if appropriate Vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors u. Derivatives and / or optionally Contains perfume oil. Dispensing device according to claim 2, characterized in that that the film-forming polymer is selected in the solution is Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Oytacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, polyurethane-1, polyvinylcaprolactam and VP / VA copolymer. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixture is an aqueous Phase, an oil phase, and / or a phase with trifunctional Contains esters and perfume oil, in particular wherein the aqueous phase or oil phase is silicone compounds, Emulsifiers, gel formers or thickeners, water, mono- or polyvalent ones Alcohols, hair-setting and / or hair-care polymers, hydrophobic Fatty or oily substances, if appropriate electrolytes, surfactants, if appropriate polyhydroxyalkylamine, and / or contains perfume oil. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluid ( 2 ) or the oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion contains: 1) at least one hydrophobic phase comprising natural oils, such as avocado or olive oils, and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils, fats 2) at least one hydrophilic phase comprising water, 3) at least one emulsifier having an HLB of at least 3, 4) nanoparticles having a particle size of less than or equal to 200 nm, such as For example, titanium dioxide or silver, 5) dyes, 6) film formers, from the group of polyacrylates or polyvinylpyrrolidone or PVP / VA copolymers or chitosan or amino polysaccharide, 7) gel formers or thickeners, 8) cationic care agents, such as quaternary ammonium compounds, in monomeric or polymeric form, or silicones and silicone derivatives, 9) perfume oil, 10) humectants, such as glycerol or polyalcohol, 11) antioxidants, 1 2) talc, 13) monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, 14) odor absorbers such as phyllosilicates, 15) vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors and derivatives, 16) pearl extract, 17) plant extracts, 18) surfactants, 19) particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobicized and / or or oil-absorbing solid substances, 20) at least one gas, 21) UV filters, such as merocyanine, and / or 22 sucrose esters. A dispenser according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the gelling agent or thickener is selected from - natural based polymers selected from carrageenans, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, starch, Ge latine, cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, agar-agar, alginates, carouba gum, guar gum, alkylated guar, hydroalkylated guar, karaya gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic and pectin; Synthetic polymers selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone and crosslinked polyacrylates; - inorganic thickeners selected from hectorites, bentonites, aluminum silicates, magnesium silicates. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluid ( 2 ) at least one preservative from the group of formaldehyde releasers, such as halogen-organic formaldehyde releasers or halogenated organic compounds, and / or from the group of parabens, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and Isobutylparaben, or acidic preservatives such as sorbic acid, Propionic acid, benzoic acid, hydroxybenzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and salicylic acid contains. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluid ( 2 ) is neutral or basic and / or has a viscosity of from 1000 mPas to 200,000 mPas, more preferably from 2,000 mPas to 100,000 mPas, very particularly preferably from 15,000 mPas to 60,000 mPas, and / or has a pH of from 3 to 9. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispensing device is provided with an elastic or flexible, for pumping liquid ( 2 ) deformable section ( 6 ) and with an associated inlet valve ( 9 ), preferably wherein the inlet valve ( 9 ) a particularly elastically deformable or held or flexible valve flap ( 11 ), which has an opening ( 12 ) optionally or closes, and in particular an elastically deformable or held or flexible biasing element ( 13 ), which on the opening ( 12 ) facing away from the valve flap ( 11 ) and biasing it in the closed position. Dispensing device according to claim 9, characterized in that the valve flap ( 11 ) and the biasing element ( 13 ) on one edge ( 7 ) of the section ( 6 ) or on its side or laterally next to it for at least extensive or complete decoupling of the valve flap ( 11 ) and biasing element ( 13 ) of a preforming of the section ( 6 ) are arranged or mounted. Dispensing device according to one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the valve flap ( 11 ) and the biasing element ( 13 ) in one piece with the edge ( 7 ) of the section ( 6 ) are formed, in particular molded or molded on it. Dispensing device according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the valve flap ( 11 ), the biasing element ( 13 ), the section ( 6 ) and its edge ( 7 ) are integrally formed, in particular form an injection molded part. Dispensing device according to one of Claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the section ( 6 ) is dome-shaped, domed and / or domed. Dispensing device according to one of claims 8 to 13, characterized in that the dispensing device ( 1 ) is designed such that liquid ( 2 ) by reversibly deforming the section ( 6 ) pumpable or conveyable and from one of the sections ( 6 ) or limited pump space ( 8th ) via an outlet valve ( 10 ) and then liquid ( 2 ) into the pump room ( 8th ) via the inlet valve ( 9 ) by preferably automatic elastic resetting of the section ( 6 ) is receivable, preferably sucked, is. Dispensing device according to one of claims 8 to 14, characterized in that the pretensioning element ( 13 ) when opening the inlet valve ( 9 ) on the valve flap ( 11 ) slides off. Dispensing device according to one of Claims 8 to 15, characterized in that the valve flap ( 11 ) by inherent elasticity against the opening ( 12 ) is biased. Dispensing device according to one of claims 8 to 16, characterized in that the opening ( 12 ) the section ( 6 ) is opposite. Dispensing device according to one of claims 8 to 17, characterized in that the valve flap ( 11 ) radially outside the section ( 6 ) from the preferably flat edge ( 7 ) is held or molded on this. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding Claims, characterized in that the dispensing device designed as a manually operable pump or metering device is. Dispensing device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluid ( 2 ) Can be output by gas pressure or propellant gas.