DE102006043766A1 - Harpagophytum root extract for stimulating hair growth - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair, in particular for revitalizing hair, reactivation of the hair root, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning.

Description

The The present invention relates to the use of an agent containing Active ingredients that are available from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair.

The Human skin with its appendages is a very complex one constructed organ, which consists of a variety of different cell types consists. Every living cell of this organ is capable of signals their inner and outer environment, to react. These reactions of the cells are regulated by an orderly Regulation is implemented at the gene and protein levels, so that the metabolism cells of the skin and your appendages not static but is very dynamic. The reactions of the skin and / or its appendages on changes the environment but not as reactions of isolated single cells become. Rather, each cell is in a complex communication network involved. This network includes e.g. the communication between Cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages signaling molecules such as. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF) etc. involved.

Of the Aging process is a fundamental biological process that can be found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly Human skin is also affected by this phenomenon. The aging of the skin presents itself as a progressive process that leads to a loss of skin homeostasis leads. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects as "genetic controlled program ", are for the exogenous factors environmental influences such as UV light responsible.

The Amount of a hair-active ingredient, usually transdermal and especially transfollicular penetrate to the hair bulb, is extremely low and depends essentially from the physicochemical properties of the substance itself (e.g. Size, charge, Lipophilicity) and the choice of formulation.

hair follicle cells are subject to a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and rest phase. The hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly self renewed and thus one, depending on the particular Growth phase, unique metabolism. So comes the Hair follicle metabolism in resting phase almost entirely to Succumb and will with every new beginning of another cycle also newly initiated.

This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which control hair growth through a complex set of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle ( Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55 ).

The Genus of devil's claw (Harpagophytum) belongs to the family of the sesame family (Pedaliaceae) and includes another species, the burbot (Harpagophytum procumbens) is called.

harpagophytum contains a number of well-known ingredients that are already used in medicine be used. Only the underground will be far branched storage roots (secondary roots) of the Harpagophytum used medically. about the ingredients of the above-ground parts is little known.

For example The bitter substances iridoiglycosides of the harpagophytum have an anti-inflammatory, decongestant effect and mild pain relieving.

at Indigestion is the devil's claw (Harpagophytum) of the advancement the stomach acid and bile production.

Also is known that the devil claw builds up cartilage substances and so it has a soothing effect on sciatica and joint pain.

In EP0524873 B1 discloses the use of Harpagophyton root extracts for the preparation of therapeutic anti-itch skin compositions.

In US6541045 B1 discloses an herbal anti-inflammatory composition containing the Devil's Claw in addition to Japanese Perennial Knotweed, Grapeskin, and Syzygium.

It was now surprisingly found that at Application of agents containing active ingredients that are available from plants of the genus Harpagophytum on the hair, scalp, hairy skin or on skin areas where hair growth has been discontinued for a long time is where, however, a hair growth desired The hair root is reactivated and hair growth significantly is improved.

Further was surprisingly found that agents containing active ingredients derived from plants of the Genus Harpagophytum be obtained, the hair are suitable strengthen and / or thicken.

The The present invention therefore relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients that are available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair, in particular for stimulating hair growth, reactivation of the hair Hair root and for strengthening (Thickening) of the hair.

Prefers Harpagophytum procumbens is used by the company Frutarom. Among active ingredients, available from plants of the genus Harpagophytum procumbens, according to the invention are the plant themselves, their plant parts, extracts and pressed juices of Harpagophytum procumbens, as well as from these extracts to be recovered active substances.

Prefers become the pressed juices or extracts from the leaves, Blossoms, Stems, root, tubers and / or seeds of Harpagophytum plant obtained, most preferably they are obtained from the roots.

Prefers are still watery Extracts or aqueous-alcoholic Extracts or aqueous-organic or alcoholic Extracts of the Harpagophytum plant.

The Extracts can with water, as well as polar or non-polar organic solvents and mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art become. Extracts obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures, can be obtained as well as press juice, are preferred.

Next Ethanol can the active ingredients from the Harpagophytumpflanze also by extraction with other alcohols, for example with methanol, propanol, propanol, Isopronaol and / or propylene glycol are obtained.

It can both the extracts in the original Extractants as well as extracts / pressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or their mixture, in particular ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures be used. Preference is given to extracted or pressed material used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as possible gently) was withdrawn. But it can also such extracts / pressed juices are used, which are the solvent was partially deprived, leaving a thickened extract / press juice is used. In particular, the extracts and / or pressed juices become solid Form used.

Prefers is The relationship from alcohol to water when watery-alcoholic Extract 1: 1 to 1: 5, especially 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3, very particularly preferably 1: 3

Farther it has been found that the use of agents containing active substances, the available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, to a suggestion of the Hair growth and a strengthening of vital hair (Example 7). The hair is thereby strengthened and vitalized and can damage better repair or build new hair.

One Another advantage of the present invention is that the means contain the active substances obtained from Harpagothytumpflanzen be able to positively affect hair growth, by repressing specific inhibiting hair-specific genes or be reduced. Repression or reduction of the inhibitory Genes, leads that the hair root can be reactivated. moreover If the hair structure is already influenced by the hair roots, so that the hair is strong and can grow back healthy.

Farther was found by the application of the said means The hair is positively influenced in its growth and metabolism become.

The penetration of active substances into the follicle is usually more difficult since the corresponding target, the dermal papilla and the ORS keratinocytes, are embedded approximately 2 mm deep in the scalp. The use of liposomes increases the penetration of an active ingredient, allowing liposomal encapsulation together Compositions containing active ingredients from Harpagophytumpfanzen work very well. Surprisingly, it has been found that these compositions show sufficient penetration to the site of action even if the use of liposomes is not possible for formulation-technical reasons.

The Active ingredients that are available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, are preferred in hair treatment products especially shampoos, hair conditioners, hair gels, hair lotions, hair conditioners, Hair creams, hair lotions, hair sprays and hair tinctures.

The Application of these agents is usually topical, wherein the agent simply into the hair, on the scalp or on skin areas on which especially hair growth has been discontinued for some time and to be reactivated by spraying, rubbing in, applying and / or kneading is applied.

To the application of the agent in the form of hair gel, hair lotions, hair condition, Hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray and hair tincture it is mostly not necessary to rinse the hair or scalp again or with additional additional To treat remedies to achieve a positive effect of the remedy. The Means can remain on the hair.

at Shampoo and hair conditioner the agent can be rinsed out after a contact time. This rinsing can done with pure water or a commercial shampoo. Exposure times from 10 seconds to 15 minutes have been considered in most cases sufficiently proven.

Independent of the exact course of treatment has proven to be advantageous the means at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C, in particular from 35 to 40 ° C, apply.

It is advantageous, however, if agents are used according to which Application, the active ingredients of Harpagophytumpflanze remain in the hair can and not washed out. This will improve the time Penetration of active ingredients granted to the hair follicle.

Regarding The way in which the funds can be applied to the hair exist however, no basic restrictions.

drugs available from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, preferably the pressed juices and / or extracts from Harpagophytum are preferred in amounts in the said agents from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

According to the invention of particular Are Haartonics interest, especially as remaining on the hair (leave on) wording. These are preferably at room temperature applied, the alcoholic content is preferably in the range from about 30% to about 35% and the pH should be around pH 7 Lieger. Especially in Haartonics, the use of in Liposomes encapsulated agents that are available from plants of the Genus Harpagophytum proved to be advantageous.

The Encapsulation of the active ingredients available from extracts and / or press juices from the plant of the genus Harpagophytum, with subsequent encapsulation in liposomes is particularly preferred. In particular, such liposomes can be used in Haartonics.

In the encapsulated liposomes in addition to the active ingredients of Harpagophytumpflanze other substances be encapsulated for the application is appropriate.

Although the use of the aforementioned hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferred are, can the agents containing the active substances of the plants of the genus Harpagophytum contain, in particular preferred press juice or (ethanolic) Extracts of Harpagophytum procumbens, including other hair treatment products, such as. hair dye and corrugating agents become. These agents then optionally contain the known direct dyes, precursors for oxidation dyes (Developer and coupler components) and oxidizing agent or reducing agent.

advantageously, can the means so protect the hair from the strain of dyeing that Hair follicles activate and at the same time skin irritations by the corrugated or hair dyes reduce or alleviate.

When Packaging of the preparations containing the agents according to the invention For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching of phase inversion, Called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. These are usually on watery or aqueous-alcoholic Basis formulated. The alcoholic component is lower Alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can in the watery alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water as well as watery-alcoholic Mixtures containing up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, Alcohol, based on the mixture alcohol / water, may contain, according to the invention preferred Be fundamentals. The pH of these preparations can in principle at values of 2-11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, values of 3 to 5 are particularly preferred. To adjustment this pH can be virtually any for cosmetic use acid or base can be used. Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Under consumption acids become such acids understood that under the usual Food intake and positive effects to have the human organism. Exotic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and Gluconic. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, Triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

The Means can as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system.

Next the mandatory active substances of the Harpagophytum plant, can the funds in principle all others, the expert for such cosmetic agent known components.

Thus, the agents may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates. Preferably, they are cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxyp Ropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium 79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Farther can additionally film-forming substances are incorporated into the formulations, which pull on the hair and thus thicken it directly noticeably. Suitable film formers are known to the person skilled in the art and, for example selected of polymers, e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone as well their copolymers.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment contains such an agent is a hair growth stimulating agent. Especially preferred as hair growth stimulating agents such compounds used the selected are from 5-á-reductase inhibitors, Minoxidil (6-piperidino-2,4-pyrimidinediamine-3-oxide) and Aminexil (Diaminopyrimidinoxid). As 5-á reductase inhibitors are in particular functional C2-C12-carboxylic acids and their physiological acceptable Metal salts, especially 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and its derivatives, derivatives of C3-C9 polyols, phenol derivatives, plant extracts, fragrances, Flavonoids, isoflavonoids, 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromene, aluminum chlorohydrate, 2-phenylethanol, etidronic acid, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, tropolone derivatives, Esters of sulfuric acid with alkoxylated C8-C18 fatty alcohols and their physiologically tolerated Metal salts, esters of phosphoric acid and triphosphoric acid with mono- to hexahydric hydroxy compounds, silicic acid esters, isolable mycosporin-like amino acids from marine organisms (MAA) as well as quaternary Silicone compounds.

Under Derivatives are to be understood in particular their salts, esters and amides. Very particular preference is given to 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and Finasteride (N-tert-butyl-3-oxo-4-aza-5α-androst-1-en-17'-carboxamide) and their derivatives.

It it was found that the hair growth stimulating effect of the active ingredients by their use in agents containing active ingredients that are available from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, can still be improved. Particular preference is given to those agents which, in addition to the active substances, the available are from harpagophytum plants, especially preferred (ethanolic) Extracts or pressed juices of Harpagophytum procumbens, at least one other active substance selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenic acid, Minoxidil and finasteride included. Very particularly preferred the hair growth stimulating agent also in this combination selected from minoxidil and finasteride.

• – nichtionogene Tenside wie beispielsweise Alkylphenolpolyglycolether, Fettsäurepolyglycolester, Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether, alkoxylierte Triglyceride, wie insbesondere ethoxyliertes Rizinusöl, Alk(en)yloligoglucoside, Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide, Polyolfettsäureester, Zuckerester, Sorbitanester und Polysorbate. Sofern die nichtionischen Tenside Polyglycoletherketten enthalten, können sie eine konventionelle oder eingeengte Homologenverteilung aufweisen.
• – anionische Tenside, insbesondere Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäuren mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykolethergruppen im Molekül, Seifen sowie Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethyl-ester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – zwitterionische Tenside, insbesondere die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammonium-glycinat, N-Acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat,
• – ampholytische Tenside wie beispielsweise N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkyl-aminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z.B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z.B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z.B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n- Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
• – Fettalkohole, insbesondere lineare und/oder gesättigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, und Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 6 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Fettsäuren
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z.B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Lichtschutzmittel, insbesondere derivatisierte Benzophenone, Zimtsäure-Derivate und Triazine,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und natürliche oder synthetische Wachse,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z.B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yl oligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
• Anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl- esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate,
• Ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and Dextrins, clays such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
• Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms, and monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 C atoms,
• - fatty acids
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil, as well as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• - light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
• - Other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and natural or synthetic waxes,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22, and very particularly preferably C12-C22 carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, according to the invention also Wollwachsalkohole how they, for example, under will be available for purchase the names Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^®, are used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Amount used is while 0.1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.1-10 wt.%, With very particularly advantageous amounts of 0.1-5 % By weight.

When natural or synthetic waxes can used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, montan wax, carnauba wax, Bee waxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The Amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C6-C30-Fettsäuren mit C2-C30-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein.

To the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies, which can be advantageously used according to the invention, are, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood to mean the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.

The Use amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the invention used Means is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight.

The Means can Furthermore Containing surfactants. These can be both anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well to act cationic surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, for example in a shampoo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants used. However, in a hair tonic, the skilled person can also largely or Completely refrain from the use of surfactants.

It has in individual cases proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants select.

When Anionic surfactants are all suitable for use in compositions according to the invention on the human body suitable anionic surface-active Substances. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as e.g. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, in the molecule Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH2-CH2O)x-CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH2-CH2O)x-OSO3H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030 ,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344 ,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen, Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C8-C30-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 .
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344 .
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters,
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates,
• Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044 are described
• Condensation products of C8-C30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known in the art as Eiweissfettsäurekondensate, such as the Lamepon ^® types, Gluadin ^® types, Hostapon ^® KCG or the Amisoft ^® types.

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C2-C6-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxylierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside.

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, and
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - With a methyl or C2-C6-alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• - sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear Fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _X. These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R ¹

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups.

When Sugar component Z can any mono- or oligosaccharides are used. Usually Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, Galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, Gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The usable according to the invention Alkyl polyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.4.

The Alkyl glycosides can in addition to their surfactant effect also serve the fixation of fragrance components to improve on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore be that one over the effect of the perfume oil beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair desired is, preferably to this class of substance as a further ingredient the preparations according to the invention To fall back on.

Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acylsarcosine.

According to the invention as cationic surfactants, especially those of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats and amidoamines used.

preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and Bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable according to the invention Compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material dependent alkyl chain lengths receives.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are used in the Reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Also as beneficial has the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives proved.

there are such according to the invention Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

to Group of substances called vitamin A belong to this Retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example Vitamin A acid and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters like palmitate and acetate. The preparations used according to the invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 Wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B1 (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendetenen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B5-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1-5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B5 type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferred in the compositions used in the invention used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or Phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with Tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall, are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included.

vitamin F. By the term "vitamin F "are usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic and arachidonic acid, Understood.

vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the But in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. biotin is used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in Amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% included.

Prefers contain the inventively used Preparations Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the Groups A, B, E and H. Of course, several vitamins and vitamin precursors at the same time.

panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The Use amount of vitamins and vitamin precursors in the invention used Means is usually 0.0001-10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.0001-5 Wt .-%, and in particular 0.0001-3 wt .-%.

Finally, in the agents according to the invention other plant extracts are used.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or scrolling to produce the plant.

Regarding the invention usable Plant extracts are particularly pointed to the extracts, in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidance on the declaration of ingredients Cosmetic agent, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- and Detergents e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are listed.

According to the invention are available especially the extracts of green Tea, Oak bark, Stinging nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Henna, Chamomile, Burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, Aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, melissa, hominy, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

there can one or more of these plant extracts in the means used, the active ingredients that are available are used in plants of the genus Harpagophytum become.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure as well as in diluted Form are used. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent in their recovery used extraction agent or extractant mixture.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of the cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced.

Accordingly, a The present invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients that are available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, whereby the means additional Contain ingredients selected from the group consisting from protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth-stimulating Active ingredients, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, zwitterionic Surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, Perfume oils, dyes, Light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, Reducing agent.

Of the Proportion of active ingredients of Harpagophytumpflanzen is preferably 0.001 to 10 wt .-% in the total composition.

Especially is an object of the present invention a hair treatment agent, containing active ingredients that are available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum. Such a hair treatment agent can a shampoo, hair conditioner, Hair gel, hair lotions, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray or to be a hair tincture.

One Another object of the present invention is the use, in particular the cosmetic use for revitalizing hair, Reactivation of the hair root, stimulation of energy metabolism in Hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of the Hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and Influence (in particular excitation) of keratin synthesis, or for hair conditioning.

All Particularly preferred here is the use of an agent containing Active ingredients that are available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair. Very particular preference is also the use of an agent, containing active ingredients that are available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum to hair growth too stimulate and the hair root, especially in places where the Hair growth for a long time is set to reactivate again.

The Reactivation and stimulation of the hair root according to the invention in particular by the repression of certain hair growth inhibiting genes effected in the dermal papilla cells. Therefore, another preferred embodiment the present invention the use of agents containing active ingredients, the available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum to reactivate the Hair root or hair by repression and / or reduction of hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells.

One Another object of the present invention is a method in particular a cosmetic procedure for revitalizing hair, Reactivation of the hair root, hair thickening, stimulation of keratin synthesis, Stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of Hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth or hair conditioning, characterized in that that is an agent containing active ingredients, obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, on the hair or the hairy skin applies.

Also An object of the present invention is a method wherein The active ingredients of Harpagophytumpflanze after use not rinsed but remain on the hair or on the skin.

Another The present invention is a method, wherein the Hair growth and the hair roots are stimulated and reactivated namely, that hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal Papilla cells are repressed or reduced.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:
All figures are in weight percent (w%).

information to the substances used in the examples:

Extract of Harpagophytum

• Ethanol extract from the root of Harpagophytum procumbens, according to the manufactured by the company Frutarom used process, solid

Carbopol ETD2020

• Noveon (Quimidroga)
• Acrylic acid copolymer
• ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSPOLYMER

Protein extract from soy

• Cosmetochem
• PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA, GLYCINE SOY SEED EXTRACT

Tea extract

• Cosmetochem
• CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

Octopirox®

• Clariant
• Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone-monoethanolamine salt
• PIROCTONE OLAMINE

Rovisome CT

• Rovi
• pH 5.5-6.5 MD 200-500nm
• AQUA (WATER), ALCOHOL DENAT., LECITHIN, CARNITINE TARTRATE

Cremophor A25

• Cremophor O (formerly)
• BASF
• Fatty alcohols, C16-18, ethoxylated (25 EO)
• CETEARETH-25

FASOS-Na C12-14 2 EO 70%

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE

Antil 141L

• Goldschmidt (Degussa)
• Polyethoxypropylene glycoldioleate
• PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE

C * Pharm 02010

• Cerestar (Inter-Harz GmbH)
• Glucose H2_O * D (+) -
• Grape sugar H2_O
• GLUCOSE

PEG-40 hydrogenated Castor Oil 455

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• PEG-40 HYDOGENATED CASTOR OIL, PROPYLENE GLYCOL

Euperlan PK 3000 AM

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• AQUA (WATER), GLYCOL DISTEARATE, GLYCERINE, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, FORMIC ACID

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001

• Iriodin Ti 100 FK (formerly)
• Merck
• MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

Cutina CP

• Cutina CP V (formerly)
• Cutina CP PF (formerly)
• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Cetyl palmitate (vegetable base)
• CETYL PALMITATE

Eumulgin B2

• Disponil B3
• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Fatty alcohols, C16-18, ethoxylated (30 EO)
• CETEARETH-30

Genamine KDMP

• Clariant
• Trimethyl-N (C20-22-alkyl) ammonium chloride * N, N, N-BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

Structure XL (28-030A)

• National Starch
• HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE

Wacker-Belsil ADM 8020 VP

• brave
• AMODIMETHICONE, TRIDECETH-5, GLYCERINE, TRIDECETH-10

Gluadin WQ

• Cognis Germany GmbH,
• AQUA (WATER), LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, ETHYLPARABLES, METHYLPARABES
• Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ, (3- (dodecyldimethylammonio) -2-hydroxypropyl), Chlorides about 30-35% content

Gluadin WLM

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Wheat protein hydrolyzate in H2O
• INCI declaration [INCI] HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
• Salary about 20-24%

Cetiol HE

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Coconut monoglyceride ethoxylated (7 EO)
• INCI declaration [INCI] PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

Ajidew NL 50

• Ajinomoto
• pyrrolidone Sodium salt
• Na-PCA
• SODIUM PCA

Arlypon F

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Lauromacrogol JP 12 (Pharmacopoeia of Japan)
• * NLP
• C12-14 fatty alcohols ethoxylated (2.5 EO)
• LAURETH-2

Synthetic K

• Synthal KD (old)
• 3V Sigma
• polyacrylic acid
• CARBOMER

Neutrol TE

• BASF
• Tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine * N, N, N ', N', - edetol
• TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE

formulation Examples

Example 1:

hair Tonic water ad 100 Carbopol ETD 2020 0.1 D-Biotin 0.01 allantoin 0.5 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.15 D-panthenol 0.1 Ethanol denatures 40 Protein extract from soy 0.3 glycerin 0.2 Extract tea 0.2 Harpagophytumextrakt 0.01

Example 2:

hair Tonic Water, demineralized ad 100 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 allantoin 0.2 Benzophenone-4 0.05 Synthetic K 0.3 Neutrol TE 0.25 Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 40 Octopirox® 0.2 Menthol, of course 0.03 Perfume 0.3 Harpagophytumextrakt 0.01

Example 3:

hair Tonic D-panthenol 75% 0.2 allantoin 0.1 Water, demineralized ad 100 Rovisome CT 40 Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 35 Cremophor A25 0.2 caffeine 0.1 Harpagophytumextrakt 0.01

Example 4:

shampoo FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 70% 15.4 Caustic soda 50% standard 0.2 City Water UK ad 100 Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.6 Antil 141 L 0.5 Arlypon F 0.6 glycine 0.3 C * Pharm 02010 1 Caffeine anhydrous 0.1 alpha-bisabolol, of course 0.1 Magnesium chloride dandruff 0.02 D-panthenol 75% 0.4 nicotinamide 0.2 salicylic acid 0.2 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7.5 Na benzoate 0.5 POLYQUATERNIUM 10 0.3 Perfume 0.7 Cetiol HE 1.5 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 455 0.4 Sodium chloride fine-medium 0.1 Harpagophytumextrakt 0.1

Example 5:

Care shampoo FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 70% 15.4 Caustic soda 50% standard 0.15 City Water UK ad 100 Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.7 Antil 141 L 0.3 Arlypon F 0.2 Gluadin WQ 0.1 Euperlan PK 3000 AM 5 Pantolactone, dandruff 0.2 Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 0.14 salicylic acid 0.2 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 8th Na benzoate 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.2 Cetiol HE 0.5 Sodium chloride fine-medium 0.3 POLYQUATERNIUM 10 0.8 Harpagophytumextrakt 0.1

Example 6:

Hair Conditioner Cutina CP 0.6 Eumulgin B 2 0.4 Cetearyl Alcohol 5 Genamine KDMP 4 Propylparaben 0.2 Benzophenone-4 0.4 Structure XL (28-030A) 0.8 City Water UK ad 100 methylparaben 0.2 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.4 Wacker-Belsil ADM 8020 VP 2 Ajidew NL 50 0.5 glycine 0.4 Harpagophytumextrakt 0.2

Example 7: Detection of the differential Expression of hair-relevant genes

By comparing different data sets obtained from SAGE ^™ analyzes and cDNA microarrays, further genes could be identified that play a role in hair growth control. It has been shown that repression of certain genes in dermal papilla cells in a co-culture system with keratinocytes leads to increased proliferation of keratinocytes. After application of substances that cause effects on the biologically active part of the hair, the determination of changes in the expression of these genes could provide information about hair growth stimulants or inhibitors.

The differential gene expression of the target genes was determined by means of quantitative RT-PCR. After culturing the dermal papilla cells, they were incubated with Harpagophytumextrakt in the concentration of 0.1 and 0.01% for 6-72h. To carry out the PCR, the RNA is first isolated from the dermal papilla cells using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair-relevant genes and which serves to amplify the desired gene segments, the Formation of PCR products detected online via a fluorescent signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to twice the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Table 1: Influence of harpagophytum extract 0.01% on the expression of hair-relevant genes Expression in DPC Gen1 -1.9 Gen2 -3.3 Gen3 -4

The Treatment with Harpagophytumextrakt leads to significant reduction gene expression of certain hair growth inhibiting genes in dermal papilla cells in vitro. Based on this expression profile may be due to the induction of keratinocyte proliferation and thus be concluded on stimulation of hair growth.

Example 8: Determination of Cell Vitality Cultured Fibroblasts after treatment with harpahophytum extract

The Determination of vitality Cultured cells provide information about the status of the cells. With this analysis you can both cell-damaging Substance concentrations are defined, as well as cell-activating drug effects be determined.

The vitality cultured cells is determined by means of redox dyes. These Dyes penetrate the cell and are absorbed by electron at the outer mitochondrial Membrane reduced. This reduction requires a dye transfer, which is determined photometrically below.

To quantify vitality, the untreated control is set equal to 100% and the readings of the substance-treated samples are referenced thereto. At a relative vitality of less than 80% one speaks of cell-damaging, with greater / equal to 120% of cell-activating substance effects. Table 2: Relative vigor after treatment of fibroblasts with Harpagophytum extract of different concentrations Test concentration (μg / ml) 62.5 125 250 500 Relative vitality (%) 110 112 109 61

In a concentration range of 62.5 μg / ml to 500 μg / ml leads the Treatment with Harpagophytum in the investigated fibroblasts too no cytotoxic effects.

Claims (16)

Use of an agent containing active substances, the available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair. Use according to claim 1, characterized that the active ingredients from pressed juices and / or extracts of plants of the genus Harpagophytum become. Use according to claim 2, characterized that the extracts are watery Extracts or aqueous-alcoholic Extracts or alcoholic extracts or mixtures thereof. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that in aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extracts of the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol, propanol, iso propanol. Propylene glycol. Use according to claim 4, characterized that in aqueous-alcoholic Extracts the ratio from alcohol to water between 1: 1 to 1: 5, preferably between 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 5 to revitalize hair, reactivation of the hair root, activation of hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment for hair conditioning. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the Harpagophytum is selected from Harpagophytum procumbens. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the active ingredients, from the leaves, flowers, stems, Roots, tubers and / or seeds of Harpagophytumpflanze won become. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the proportion of active ingredients of Harpagophytumpflanze from 0.001 to 10% by weight, especially 0.01 to 5% by weight in the total composition is. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the agent contains additional constituents selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic Polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, Antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, reducing agents. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the agent is a hair treatment agent, especially shampoo, hair conditioner, Hair gel, hair lotions, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray and Hair tincture is. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the hair growth is stimulated and the hair roots, especially in places where hair growth since prolonged is set, is reactivated. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the reactivation by repression and / or reducing the hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells is effected. Hair treatment compositions containing active substances, the available are from plants of the genus Harpagophytum. Procedure for revitalizing hair, reactivation the hair root, activation of hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement of the Hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and Hair conditioning, characterized in that one means according to claim 14 or one to be used according to one of claims 1 to 13 Remedy on the hair, scalp, hairy skin or on skin areas, where the hair growth for a long time is adjusted, but where hair growth is desired, apply. The method of claim 15, wherein the hair growth and the hair roots are stimulated and reactivated, characterized that hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal Papillenzellen repressed and / or be reduced.