DE102004024463A1 - Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid for epilation - Google Patents

Abstract

Described is the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid for epilation.

Description

technical area

The The present invention relates to the use of ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid to the epilation.

State of technology

A Removal of body hair becomes common for cosmetic reasons carried out, but it is also in a whole range of clinical indications required. This is z. As in hypertrichosis of the case, a genetic tendency to excessive body hair, caused by different factors, such as medicines, chemicals, Injuries, allergies, infections, vaccination, cancer and more. a. be induced can. In the so-called animal fur nasus large pigmentation spots occur with increased hair and hyperpigmentation, which increases the risk of melanoma have. Hirsutism is a male hair type Women referred to the plant-conditioned with or without hormonal disorder can go along. In the diseases mentioned is regularly a Epilation of the affected skin areas performed.

The pathological excessive hairiness becomes main for psychosocial reasons treated. The affected patients, especially children and women, suffer from excessive hair very much and can to get depressed. Tierfellnävi often cover a considerable amount Part of the body surface and can be special not surgically removed in childhood. To the appearance The patient will at least improve something, usually the hair away. Da nevi an increased Tendency to malignant degeneration In this process, any skin irritation should be in the appropriate Skin regions are avoided.

at the removal of body hair is basically between epilation and depilation. Under epilation one understands the complete one Removal or destruction of the hair shaft while During depilation, only the visible part of the hair is destroyed. A lasting cosmetic or therapeutic success can therefore can only be achieved through epilation.

to At the time there are very different remedies available for epilation that in a review article from Kunte and Wolff are summarized ("Current Therapy of Hypertrichosis" Dermatologist 52: 993-997, 2001). Epilation can be mechanical, chemical, biochemical, electrical or by photothermolysis.

at The mechanical hair removal is used wax, tweezers or Epilationsapparate. Wax epilation heats up warm wax applied to depilated areas and jerky after cooling removed again. The strong terminal hairs are pulled out, while the short fine vellus hairs usually remain behind. The procedure is painful and often causes inflammation and scars (Mimouni-Bloch et al. "Severe folliculitis with keloid scars induced by wax epilation in adolescents "Cutis 59: 41-42, 1997) Complaints arise when the hair with tweezers or epilators be plucked out of the skin.

at chemical therapy (Natow "Chemical removal of hair" Cutis 38: 91-92, 1986) use is made of thioglycolates obtained by the hydrolysis of cysteine disulfide bridges structural changes and to weakening lead the hair shaft. The hair can subsequently easily scraped off or washed off. The skin is at this Procedure greatly irritated.

at the electrolysis leads the application of a low current in the hair follicle through the Reaction of common salt with water to form sodium hydroxide. The chemical reaction and the subsequent destruction of the tissue take approx. 30 to 60 seconds per hair follicle. The treatment can be painful the effectiveness is judged very differently.

at Thermolysis will briefly high-frequency current flows on the hair follicle generated. By the resulting heat the follicle is destroyed. Electrolysis and thermolysis can Follikelentzündungen and hyperpigmentation as well as intensive scars and scarring cause.

spread Application is currently the laser-assisted photothermolysis. there Hair follicles are absorbed by visible light after absorption the resulting heat is destroyed. damage of the adjacent skin areas by cooling (Klavuhn and Green Importance of cutaneous cooling during photothermal epilation: theoretical and practical considerations "Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 31: 97-105, 2002; McCoy et al. "Long-pulsed ruby laser for permanent hair reduction: histological analysis after 3, 4½ and 6 months. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 30: 401-405, 2002). The laser-assisted photothermolysis shows good results with pigmented hair, but is almost ineffective in patients with light hair. Besides, it is expensive, painful and can cause hyperpigmentation of the skin.

to drug-topical Therapy of hypertrichosis Eflornithin is used, which is the Ornithine decarboxylase and thus the polyamine synthesis inhibited (Malhotra et al. "Percutaneous absorption and pharmacokinetics of eflornithine HCL 13.9% cream in woman with unwanted fecal hair "Journal of Clinical Pharmacology 41: 972-978, 2001). The use of eflornithine leads to the inhibition of hair growth, the but discontinued after discontinuation of treatment. So far were acne-like changes in the Skin, follicle inflammation, Burning and stinging as unwanted Side effects observed.

Also Extracts of licorice root and individual substances contained therein are used in epilation. Thus, JP-A-2001-261538 describes in connection with the application mechanical epilation techniques an epilation-supporting effect of licorice root extract and the flavonoids contained therein, especially Glabrin.

The JP-A-2001-002539 discloses the use of glycyrrhetinic acid as suitable additive for epilation patches. By the glycyrrhetic acid the sensation of pain during mechanical hair removal is suppressed. Interestingly, For example, in JP-A-2001-002539, glycyrrhetinic acid is directed to epilation Attributed effect. At the highest The concentration of glycyrrhetinic acid used becomes more remaining hair observed after mechanical epilation, as at low concentrations.

In JP-A-09227341 discloses licorice root extract and specifically described Glabrin as an anti-androgenic agent, the Among other things, for the treatment of hormonal alopecia (Hair loss) is suitable. This is an example of an in The literature widespread opinion, according to licorice root extract or Glyzyrrhizin as a suitable means of support of hair growth.

The US 5 554 608 describes reduced hair growth on topical application of an inhibitor of protein kinase C. In addition to a number of other compounds, glycyrrhizic acid and 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid are also used as examples of protein kinase C inhibitors. Using a composition containing 10% glycyrrhizinic acid, a 46% reduction in hair growth is noted, while a composition containing 7.5% 18-β-glycyrrhetic acid causes a 44% reduction in hair growth.

In spite of The extensive state of the art is currently not topical to be applied formulation for permanent hair removal (epilation) known to be painless and without any health risk at all easy way can be applied. The known substances and Hair removal procedures are not satisfactory as they either complex and costly treatments include or pain, skin irritation and folliculitis.

presentation the invention

task It is the object of the present invention to provide a formulation for epilation to provide painless and easily applied can be. This object is achieved by the use of Ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid Epilation according to independent claim 1, by the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to independent claim 13 and solved by the medicament according to independent claim 19. Further advantageous aspects, details and embodiments of the invention arise from the dependent ones claims, the description, the examples and the figures.

The The present invention relates to the use of ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid to the epilation.

As already executed be 18-β-glycyrrhetic and glycyrrhizic acid used in connection with epilation techniques. Surprisingly has now been shown that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic and glycyrrhetinic acid in its epilating effect the free acids as well as other salts of these acids clearly superior are.

The use according to the invention of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid Epilation has many advantages. The Namely, use of said compounds provides a simple and inexpensive to use Epilation process that painlessly creates a lasting Removal of unwanted Hair causes. In addition, no skin irritation is observed.

By the use of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid as Pure substances may have other, partly questionable ingredients the liquorice root extract previously used for epilation is omitted become. Controversial components of licorice root extract are z. As vegetable hormones, resinous substances and possible residues of Pesticides or other pesticides. The licorice root extracts can also other, unknown components with a potential Health risk included.

at the use according to the invention can also be used on otherwise usual mechanical aids that cause severe discomfort in the Hair removal are dispensed with, since a complete epilation effect solely by the application of the compounds mentioned occurs. In addition, the ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid unlike licorice root extract colorless and therefore cosmetically acceptable and easier to formulate. Size skin surfaces can easy and painless treatment in this way become.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment The present invention uses the ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid through a topical application. With a topical application The advantage is that only the affected skin is targeted be treated. in principle comes as the application site, the entire skin in question, especially due the waiver of mechanical aids is the use of the invention for hair removal but especially on pain sensitive skin areas such as As facial skin, bikini area and underarm suitable.

a Another special advantage is the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant Properties of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid by which a malignant process is counteracted. This Especially in the treatment of animal skin naevi one Advantage dar. Da Nävi an increased Tendency to malignant To have degeneration, should be in the removal of hair namely each Skin irritation in the corresponding skin regions should be avoided. This can be achieved by the use according to the invention of the ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid be achieved.

While glycyrrhetinic acid has only one COOH group, glycyrrhizic acid has three carboxylic acid functions. The present invention encompasses mono-, di- and tri-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid. According to particularly preferred embodiments, the mono- and di-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are used in the form of Na ⁺ and / or K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ mixed salts. Namely, the mono-ammonium glycyrrhizinate can be obtained from the extract of licorice root. Since glycyrrhizin is present in the licorice root bound to potassium and calcium, are mixed in the above representation always mixed salts, which can then be used as mixed salt directly for epilation.

The Ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid can in the context of the present invention in principle as pure substances or in the form of mixtures of ammonium glycyrrhizinate and ammonium glycyrrhetinate be used, wherein the ammonium glycyrrhizinate from the individual substances or mixtures of mono-, di- and tri- Ammonium glycyrrhizinate can compound.

Prefers the use according to the invention takes place the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid cosmetic and / or therapeutic epilation.

According to further preferred embodiments, the use of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid is carried out together with other drugs, herbal medicines and / or other auxiliaries and mixtures thereof. As examples of such drugs, herbal medicines Medicinal Products, and other auxiliaries which may be mentioned are: thioglycolates such as Veet ^®, wax, anti-androgens, spironolactone, elfornithine, inhibitors of protein kinase C, inhibitors of adhesion molecules, components of licorice extract as Glabrin, flavonoids, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetic acid, potassium salts of glycyrrhizic acid, potassium Salts of glycyrrhetinic acid and extracts from the natural products Aloe, Scutellaria baicalensis, Zanthomylium, Rehmannia, Clove, Coix, Soybean, Saxifraga, Swertia, Japanese pepper, Podocarpus chinensis, Gynostemma pentaphyllum, Henna leaves, Lithospermum, Curcuma longa, and Olibanum (Boswellia).

By The substances mentioned are the epilation in various ways supported: Thioglycolates are e.g. for the hydrolysis of disulfide bridges in Hair shaft used, wax is used for mechanical hair removal, antiandrogens and spironolactone become systemic treatment of hirsutism used in women, Glyzyrrhizinsäure, Glyzyrrhetinsäure, potassium salts of Glyzyrrhizinsäure and The potassium salt of glycyrrhetinic acid has a pain-killing effect Effect, especially with the simultaneous use of mechanical Epilation techniques is beneficial.

Without limiting the present invention to a particular mechanism of action, it should be noted that in the application of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid has shown that hair growth by these compounds in contrast to that in the US 5 554 608 described mechanism is not inhibited or reduced. It is rather an accelerated hair growth to observe, which then leads to total hair loss.

From The present invention also contemplates the use of ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid for the preparation of a pharmaceutical preparation or a medicament for the Epilation includes. Preferably, the epilation is done from cosmetic and / or therapeutic reasons.

The use according to the invention the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid takes place preferably in the form of solutions, especially alcoholic solutions, Tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol, in the form of a wet dressing, an occlusion dressing, patch or stick preparation, especially in the form of a deodorant stick.

The present invention also encompasses pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as medicaments which contain at least one ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments preferably contain mono-, di- and / or tri-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid. The mono- and di-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are preferably present in the form of Na ⁺ and / or K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ mixed salts.

According to special preferred embodiments of the present invention are those in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation or the drug contained as active ingredient Ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 90% by weight, especially in one Amount of 1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-% contained. The dosages mentioned have proved to be particularly effective in animal experiments.

According to others particularly preferred embodiments The present invention relates to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic Preparations and the drugs intended for topical application. With a topical application has the advantage that exclusively the affected skin areas are treated specifically. Basically comes as application site, the entire skin in question, in particular due the waiver of mechanical aids are the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention Invention for hair removal but especially sensitive to pain Skin areas such. As facial skin, bikini area and underarm suitable.

at the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation and the medicament it is preferably a solution, in particular an alcoholic Solution, a tincture, a lotion, an emulsion, an ointment, a cream, a paste, an oil, a gel, a powder, a spray or aerosol, a moist dressing, an occlusive dressing, a plaster or a stick preparation, in particular a deodorant stick.

Become the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid in a deodorant spray or a deodorant stick, so can the hair removal by the way take place and means no extra time for the hair-removing Treatment.

As already described, the use according to the invention of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid preferably in the form of solutions. Also the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the Medicaments are preferably in the form of a solution. As a solvent can in all cases in principle all skin-friendly and non-toxic solvents be used. In addition, you can the solutions all usual Detergents included. Especially suitable and therefore in the frame In the present invention, the solvents are preferably ethanol, glycerol, Water and their mixtures. Especially preferred is the additive from urea to the solvents or solvent mixtures.

Especially Preferably, mixtures of ethanol and water are used, wherein particularly good results with an ethanol concentration between 5 and 50 wt .-%, in particular between 10 and 30 wt .-% and especially preferably at a concentration of about 20 wt .-% can be achieved. Also preferably used are mixtures of glycerol and Water, with particularly good results at a glycerol concentration between 5 and 75% by weight, in particular between 10 and 50% by weight, preferably between 20 and 40 wt .-% and particularly preferably at a concentration of about 30 wt .-% can be achieved. Beyond that preferred solutions of urea used in water, with particularly good results at a urea concentration between 5 and 20 wt .-%, in particular between 7.5 and 15 wt .-% and particularly preferably at a concentration be achieved by about 10 wt .-%.

Prefers also mixtures of ethanol, urea and water are used. Be particularly advantageous in this context, the use a mixture of 20% by weight ethanol, 10% by weight urea and 70% % By weight of water exposed. In such a solvent, the ammonium salts gel glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid namely only at a temperature of around 30 ° C and less. Basically in the choice of solvent to make sure that the solidification point of the ammonium salts of the glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid if possible low temperatures should be. Gell the salts mentioned namely in water even at a temperature of 60 ° C, which is a skin-friendly application difficult.

Especially Preferably, the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or takes place glycyrrhetic acid including the mono-, di- and tri-ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid and the already mentioned mixed salts for the treatment of diseases and in particular for the treatment of hypertrichos sen, animal fur, and Hirsutism. In these diseases, large areas of skin are of excessive hair growth affected. The painless treatment when used according to the invention the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid in these cases a very special step forward.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment In the present invention, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid in the after-treatment of a hair removal by photothermolysis used. The fact that around 30% of all hair becomes one namely, that they are in a resting phase at a certain point in time In a laser treatment not all hair can be removed. to Removal of hair, resulting in a first laser treatment in the resting phase must further expensive laser treatments take place at the same skin site. Through the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid for post-treatment after laser epilation further sessions can be avoided become.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicines according to the present Invention will become common used together with a physiological carrier. According to preferred embodiments The present invention includes the physiological carrier or more adjuvants, such as those commonly used in such preparations be used, such as. Greases, oils, superfatting agents, waxes, Silicones, emulsifiers, dispersants, pearlescent waxes, alcohols, Polyols, bodying agents, stabilizers, thickeners, swelling agents, Hydrotropes or moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Polymers, surfactants, plasticizers, foam brakes, alkalinization or acidifiers, softeners, Adsorbents, light stabilizers, electrolytes, sequestering agents, organic solvents, Preservatives, germ-inhibiting agents, especially fungicides or bactericides, antioxidants, biogenic agents, vitamins, Protein hydrolysates, mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, enzyme inhibitors, in particular MMP1-inhibiting substances, deodorants or odor absorbers, Antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, α-hydroxy and α-ketocarboxylic acids, fragrances, Dyes and / or pigments.

In the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as in the medicaments according to the present invention, at least one plant extract may furthermore be contained. The plant extract can for example, by extraction of the entire plant, but also exclusively by extraction from flowers and / or leaves and / or seeds and / or other parts of plants produced. In the context of the present invention, especially the extracts from the meristem, ie the divisible forming tissue of the plants, and the extracts of special plants such as Aloe, Scutellaria baicalensis, Zanthomylium, Rehmannia, Clove, Coix, soybean, Saxifraga, Swertia, Japanese pepper, Podocarpus chinensis, Gynostemma pentaphyllum, Henna leaves and Lithospermum. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention may also contain mixtures of several, in particular of two, different plant extracts.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts can For example, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof used become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, Propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole Extracting agent as well as in admixture with water, preferred. plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 have become proved to be particularly suitable. The steam distillation falls under the preferred extraction methods. The extraction may but if necessary also in the form of dry extraction.

The plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Depending on the choice of extractants, it may be preferable to stabilize the plant extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C _8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol capryl - / - / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides.

Farther It may be preferred in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic Preparations and in the medicaments according to the present invention Mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts use.

Regarding The usable plant extracts will continue on the extracts noted in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the industry association Body care and laundry detergent e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, starting table are listed.

In particular, when used according to the invention for cosmetic purposes, it is advantageous if substances are additionally used which inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce the formation of odor. As enzyme inhibitors, the skin-treating agents according to the present invention may contain, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl, triisopropyl, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® ^® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG). Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid , Adipinsäuremonoethylester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate and zinc glycinate.

Particularly suitable enzyme inhibitors are MMP-1-inhibiting substances, in particular those selected from photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran, 3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran (available as a commercial product Lipochroman 6 ^™ from Lipotec SA) and mixtures thereof. Precocenes are plant-occurring chromene derivatives known as hormones (The Merck Index, 12th Edition, Merck & Co. 1996). The MMP-1-inhibiting effect of these substances is in the German Offenlegungsschrift DE 100 16 016 A1 described. They are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention may further contain at least one ester of retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) with a C _2-18 carboxylic acid. Preferred retinol esters are retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate, particularly preferred is retinyl palmitate. The retinol esters are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, respectively based on the total mean used.

In preferred embodiments, in particular when using the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid in the form of an emulsion, a surfactant solution or in the form of a cleaning agent, at least one surface-active substance is additionally used as emulsifier or dispersing agent , Emulsifiers cause at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption tion layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore built up like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. W / O emulsions stabilized without hydrophilic emulsifiers are disclosed in the publications DE 198 16 665 A1 and DE 198 01 593 A1 disclosed.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare C₈-C₂₂-Fettalkohole, an C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuren und an C₈-C₁₅-Alkylphenole,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an C₃-C₆-Polyole, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, z. B. das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten C₈-C₂₂-Fettsäuren,
• – Sterole (Sterine). Als Sterole wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C--Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterole) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterole) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterole sind das Cholesterol und das Lanosterol. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterole sind Beta-Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, Campesterol und Ergosterol. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterole, die so genannten Mykosterole, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide, vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden,
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate, bevorzugt Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH) und Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat (Handelsprodukt Lameform^® TGI),
• – Lineare und verzweigte C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäuren und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn – Salze.

For example, the following emulsifiers can be used in the context of the present invention:

• Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, on C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids and on C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. As the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,
• - Sterols (sterols). Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group at C atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids, especially the glucose phospholipids, the z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans),
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product)
• - Linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The Emulsifiers are preferred in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0,5 - 15 Wt .-%, based on the total formulation used.

In a preferred embodiment is at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 and below, according to the im Römpp-Lexikon Chemistry (Eds .: J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions of the HLB value, contain. Such emulsifiers are, for example, verbin-dun gene the general formula R1-O-R2, in which R1 is a primary linear Alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group with 20-30 C atoms and R2 hydrogen, one group with the formula - (CnH2nO) x-H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups is. As an emulsifier of the formula R 1 -OR 2, particular preference is given to a or erucyl derivative in which R1 is a linear, terminally substituted Alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group with 22 C atoms.

Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

In another preferred embodiment, at least one ionic emulsifier selected from anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and cationic emulsifiers is included. Preferred anionic emulsifiers are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride sulfates , Alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates. Zwitterionic emulsifiers carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^- - or -SO ₃ ^- group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

Ampholytic emulsifiers contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and can form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic emulsifiers are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.

The ionic emulsifiers are in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent included.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicines according to the present Invention can furthermore at least one organic or mineral or modified mineral sunscreen filter included. In the sunscreen filters it is liquid or crystalline at room temperature Substances that are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, z. B. heat to give up again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred.

The organic UV filters used in the present invention are preferably selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5- Triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonsäureestern and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly oil-soluble UV filters preferred are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4- methoxybenzmalonate 2-ethylhexyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl Triazone) and dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®) and any mixtures of said K omponents.

preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. So can for example be solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV- Make B filters. The pharmaceutical preparations and pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention therefore in another preferred embodiment contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B Filter selected from 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is ent between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Furthermore, in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention at least one protein hydrolyzate or its derivative can be contained. Both vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Preference is given to vegetable protein hydrolysates, for. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

At Place of protein hydrolysates can on the one hand, otherwise obtained amino acid mixtures, on the other hand individual amino acids as well as their physiologically compatible Salts are used. The preferred amino acids of the invention include glycine, Serine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine, glutamine, pyroglutamic acid, alanine, Valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, Lysine, arginine and histidine as well as the zinc salts and the acid addition salts the said amino acids.

Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

It is also possible to use cationized protein hydrolysates, in which case the underlying protein hydrolyzate can originate from animals, from the plant, from marine life forms or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose protein content on which they are based has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, some of the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and listed on the market: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present Invention are the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives or the amino acids and their derivatives in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on contain the entire remedy. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, In particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Farther can the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the pharmaceuticals according to the present Invention at least one mono-, oligo- or polysaccharide or their Derivatives included.

Suitable monosaccharides are, for. Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the deoxy sugars fucose and rhamnose as well Aminosugars such. As glucosamine or galactosamine. Preferred are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

suitable Oligosaccharides are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, z. As sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred Oligosaccharide is sucrose. Also particularly preferred the use of honey, the predominant Contains glucose and sucrose.

Suitable polysaccharides are composed of more than ten monosaccharide units. Preferred polysaccharides are the starches made from α-D-glucose units and starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins. Particularly advantageous are chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for. B. hydroxypropyl starch, Dihydroxypropyldistärkephosphat or Han-dels-per--products Dry Flo ^®. Further preferred are dex-trane and its derivatives, for. B. dextran sulfate. Also preferred are nonionic cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, hydroxy-propyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose and cationic cellulose derivatives, eg. Cel-quat ™ and poly-mer JRâ, and preferably Cel-quat ™ H 100, Cel-quat ™ L 200 and polymer JRâ 400 (Polyquaternium-10) and polyquaternium-24. Other preferred examples are poly-saccharides from fucose units, e.g. As the trade - product fucogel ^®. Particularly preferred are the polysaccharides made up of amino sugar units, in particular chitins and their deacetylated derivatives, the chitosans, and mucopolysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, for example those according to the invention, are preferred mucopoly-saccharides. As sodium hyaluronate or dimethyl-silanol-hyal-uro-nat, and chondroitin and its derivatives, for. B. chondroitin sulfate.

Farther can the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the pharmaceuticals according to the present Invention at least one film-forming, emulsion-stabilizing, thickening or adhesive Polymer included, selected from natural and synthetic polymers that are cationic, anionic, amphoteric charged or non-ionic. Preference is given to cationic, anionic and nonionic polymers.

Preferred among the cationic polymers are polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, e.g. , The commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (with amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt).

Preferred anionic polymers which can support the action of the active compounds used according to the invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole monomer or as a comonomer, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. Within this embodiment, it is preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid groups are wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention. Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the can be crosslinked aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

• – pflanzliche Öle, wie Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls,
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe, z. B. 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) oder Polydecen,
• – Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt 12 bis 36, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, z. B. Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE), n-Hexyl-n-octylether und n-Octyl-n-decylether.
• – Fettsäuren, besonders lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte C_8-30-Fettsäuren. Bevorzugt sind C_10-22-Fettsäuren. Beispiele sind die Isostearinsäuren und Isopalmitinsäuren wie die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Edenor^® vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearin säure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachidonsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, die aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist der Einsatz von Stearinsäure.
• – Fettalkohole, besonders gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 – 30, bevorzugt 10 – 22 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 12 – 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind z. B. Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol und Behenylalkohol, sowie deren Guerbetalkohole, z. B. 2-Ethylhexanol, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben soll.
• – Esteröle, das heißt, Ester von C_6-30-Fettsäuren mit C_2-30-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Als Alkohol- und Säurekomponenten der Esteröle können die vorstehend genannten Substanzen verwendet werden. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat, Isononansäure-C_16-18-alkylester, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat, n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat, Isopropylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Laurinsäurehexylester, Di-n-butyladipat, Myristylmyristat, Cetearyl Isononanoate und Ölsäuredecylester.
• – Hydroxycarbonsäurealkylester, wobei die Vollester der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure oder Citronensäure bevorzugt sind, aber auch Ester der β-Hydroxypropionsäure, der Tartronsäure, der D-Gluconsäure, Zuckersäure, Schleimsäure oder Glucuronsäure geeignet sind und besonders bevorzugt die Ester von C₁₂-C₁₅-Fettalkoholen, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol^® der EniChem, Augusta Industriale, sind,
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykoldioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di-(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-iso-stearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentyl-glykol-di-caprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, z. B. Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Mono-, Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder ver-zweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, z. B. Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12 oder Cutina^® MD,
• – Wachse, insbesondere Insektenwachse wie Bienenwachs und Hummelwachs, Pflanzenwachse wie Candelillawachs und Carnaubawachs, Fruchtwachse, Ozokerit, Mikrowachs, Ceresin, Paraffin, Triglyceride gesättigter und gegebenenfalls hydroxylierter C_16-30-Fettsäuren, wie z. B. gehärtete Triglyceridfette (hydriertes Palmöl, hydriertes Kokosöl, hydriertes Rizinusöl), Glyceryltribehenat oder Glyceryltri-12-hydroxystearat, synthetische Vollester aus Fettsäuren und Glykolen (z. B. Syncrowachs^®) oder Polyolen mit 2 – 6 C-Atomen, Ester von gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C_2-4-Carbonsäuren mit Lanolinalkoholen und C_12–18-Fettalkoholen, Cholesterol- oder Lanosterolester von C_10-30-Fettsäuren, ethoxylierte C_12-20-Fettsäureglykolester, Fettsäuremonoalkanolamide mit einem C_12-22-Acylrest und einem C_2-4-Alkanolrest, synthetische Fettsäure-Fettalkoholestern, z. B. Stearylstearat oder Cetylpalmitat sowie Esterwachse aus natürlichen Fettsäuren und synthetischen C_20-40-Fettalkoholen (INCI-Bezeichnung C20-40 Alkyl Stearate),
• – Siliconverbindungen, ausgewählt aus Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan und Siliconpolymeren, die gewünschtenfalls quervernetzt sein können, z. B. Polydialkylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane, bevorzugt die Substanzen mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone Copolyol, sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the effect of the topically applied formulations can be further optimized by fatty substances. Suitable fatty substances are, for example:

• Vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil,
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) or polydecene,
• - Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), n-hexyl-n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.
• Fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids. C _10-22 fatty acids are preferred. Examples are the isostearic and isopalmitic such as those sold under the trade name Edenor ^® fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuts obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; especially preferred is the use of stearic acid.
• - Fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6 - 30, preferably 10 - 22 and most preferably 12 - 22 carbon atoms. Applicable for the purposes of the invention are z. B. decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their Guerbet alcohols, z. B. 2-ethylhexanol, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
• Ester oils, that is, esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. As the alcohol and acid components of the ester oils, the above-mentioned substances can be used. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C _16-18 alkyl esters, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, di-n-butyl butyladipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.
• - Hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, wherein the full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid are preferred, but also esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid are suitable and particularly preferably the esters of C _12th -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols, e.g. B. the commercial products Cosmacol ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale, are,
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-iso-stearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol di-caprylate,
• - Symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• - Mono-, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, z. B. ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD,
• Waxes, in particular insect waxes such as beeswax and bumblebee wax, plant waxes such as candelilla wax and carnauba wax, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwax, ceresin, paraffin, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, such as. B. hydrogenated triglyceride fats (eg Syncrowachs ^®.) (Hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2 - 6 carbon atoms, esters of optionally hydroxylated C _2-4 carboxylic acids with lanolin alcohols and C _12-18 fatty alcohols, cholesterol or Lanosterol esters of C _10-30 fatty acids, ethoxylated C _12-20 -Fettsäureglykolester, fatty acid monoalkanolamides having a C _12-22 acyl radical and a C _{2 -4} -alkanol radical, synthetic fatty acid re-fatty alcohol esters, eg. Stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate and ester waxes of natural fatty acids and synthetic C _20-40 fatty alcohols (INCI name C20-40 alkyl stearates),
• Silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers, which may be crosslinked, if desired, e.g. As polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably the substances with the INCI name dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

The Use amount of fatty substances is 0.1 - 50 % By weight, preferably 0.1-20 % By weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, in each case based on the entire remedy.

As superfatting agent can Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides be used, the latter also as foam stabilizers serve.

When Pearlescent waxes are, for example, suitable: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyfunctional, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain Esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, Fatty ethers and fatty carbonates totaling at least 24 carbon atoms specifically, lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids like stearic acid, hydroxystearic or behenic acid, Ring opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

When Bodying agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and next to it Partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids in Consideration. Preference is given to a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearates.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicines according to the present Invention can further at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or α-ketocarboxylic acid or their Contain ester, lactone or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are especially selected from lactic acid, Tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4- Hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and Galacturonic. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, Hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

• – Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, C, E und F, insbesondere 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A₂), β-Carotin (Provitamin des Vitamin A₁), Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C), sowie die Palmitinsäureester, Glucoside oder Phosphate der Ascorbinsäure, Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol sowie seine Ester, z. B. das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat; weiterhin Vitamin F, worunter essentielle Fettsäuren, besonders Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden werden;
• – Allantoin,
• – Bisabolol,
• – Antioxidantien, zum Beispiel Imidazole (z. B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, das Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Katalase, Superoxid-Dismutase, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO₄), Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selen-Methionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, trans-Stilbenoxid) und die als Antioxidans geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser Wirkstoffe,
• – Ceramide und Pseudoceramide,
• – Triterpene, insbesondere Triterpensäuren wie Ursolsäure, Rosmarinsäure, Betulinsäure, Boswelliasäure und Bryonolsäure,
• – Monomere Catechine, besonders Catechin und Epicatechin, Leukoanthocyanidine, Catechinpolymere (Catechin-Gerbstoffe) sowie Gallotannine,
• – Verdickungsmittel, z. B. Gelatine, Pflanzengumme und/oder Polysaccharide wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Guar-Guar, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Tylosen oder Johannisbrotkernmehl, hydrophile Kieselsäuren und/oder natürliche und synthetische Tone und Schichtsilikate, z. B. Bentonit, Hectorit, Montmorillonit oder Laponite^®, Ca-, Mg- oder Zn-Seifen von Fettsäuren, Carboxymethylcellulose und Hydroxyethylcellulose, höhermolekulare Polyethylenglycolmono- und -diester von Fettsäuren, Polyacrylate, (z. B. Carbopole^® von Goodrich oder Synthalene^® von Sigma), Polyacrylamide, vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie Polyvinylalkohol und Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Tenside wie beispielsweise ethoxylierte Fettsäureglyceride, Ester von Fettsäuren mit Polyolen wie beispielsweise Pentaerythrit oder Trimethylolpropan, Fettalkoholethoxylate mit eingeengter Homologenverteilung oder Alkyloligoglucoside sowie Elektrolyte wie Kochsalz und Ammoniumchlorid,
• – Pflanzenglycoside,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Dimethylisosorbid,
• – Alpha-, beta- sowie gamma-Cyclodextrine, insbesondere zur Stabilisierung von Retinol,
• – Lösungsmittel, Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate
• – Parfümöle, Pigmente sowie Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, z. B. α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example:

• Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, C, E and F, in particular 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), β-carotene (provitamin of vitamin A ₁ ), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and the palmitic acid esters, Glucosides or phosphates of ascorbic acid, tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol and its esters, eg. The acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate; vitamin F, which is understood as meaning essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid;
• - allantoin,
• - bisabolol,
• Antioxidants, for example imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (for example anserine), chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl , Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts ) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, bithine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very small amounts tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, the benzylic resin coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid , Furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, catalase, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. Selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the antioxidant-suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides e, peptides and lipids) of these drugs,
• Ceramides and pseudoceramides,
• Triterpenes, in particular triterpenic acids such as ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid, betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonolic acid,
• - Monomeric catechins, especially catechin and epicatechin, leucoanthocyanidins, catechin polymers (catechin tannins) and gallotannins,
• - Thickener, z. As gelatin, plant gums and / or polysaccharides such as agar-agar, guar-gum, guar-guar, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, tyloses or locust bean gum, hydrophilic silicic acids and / or natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates , z. As bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^®, Ca, Mg or Zn soaps of fatty acids, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, high molecular weight polyethylene and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for. Example Carbopol ^® of Goodrich or Synthalens ^® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride,
• - vegetable glycosides,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - dimethyl isosorbide,
• Alpha, beta and gamma cyclodextrins, in particular for the stabilization of retinol,
• - Solvents, swelling and penetrating agents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol and diethylene glycol, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates
• Perfume oils, pigments and dyes for staining the agent,
• - substances for adjusting the pH, z. B. α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicines according to the present Invention are administered topically and can advantageously in Form of a liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsion, Water-in-oil emulsion, Multiple emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion or picketing emulsion, in the form of a hydrogel, an alcoholic gel, a lipogel, in the form of a single- or multi-phase solution, a foam, a Ointment, a plaster, a suspension, a powder or a Mixture with at least one suitable as a medical adhesive Polymer present. The topically applied agents can also in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm become. Here, the carrier a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a Mixture of such oils be.

In a particular embodiment, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood to mean not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. Upon heating of these systems, microemulsions are formed within a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") which, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm. One peculiarities regarding these "PIT emulsions" z. B. the publication Angew. Chem. 97, 655 - 669 (1985).

It is also conceivable that the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention are in the form of antiperspirants and / or deodorants. Suitable antiperspirant active substances are, for example, water-soluble astringent or protein-coagulating metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium, and also any desired mixtures of these salts. Water solubility according to the invention is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 4 g of active substance per 100 g of solution at 20 ° C. For example, alum (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O), aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxactate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum sulfocarbolate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, zirconium chlorohydrate, aluminum Zirconium chlorohydrate-glycine complexes and complexes of basic aluminum chlorides with propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol. The liquid active substance preparations preferably comprise an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. Aluminum chlorohydrates, for example, in powder form sold as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine or in activated form as Reach ^® 501 or Reach ^® 103 from Reheis and in the form of aqueous solutions as Locron ^® L of Clariant ^® or as Chlorhydrol from Reheis. Under the name ^Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered. The use of aluminum-zirconium tri- or tetrachlorohydrex glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ^® commercially, according to the invention is particularly advantageous.

Of the antiperspirant Active substance is in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and in the medicaments according to the present invention Invention in an amount of 0.01 - 40 wt .-%, preferably 2 - 30 wt .-% and in particular 5 - 25 Wt .-%, based on the amount of the active substance in the whole Composition, included.

When Deodorant agents are, for example, fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances, enzyme-inhibiting substances, Antioxidants and odor adsorbents can be used.

Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or antimicrobial substances are in particular C ₁ -C ₄ -alkanols, C ₂ -C ₄ -alkanediols, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a range of plant extracts and zinc compounds.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention may further contain at least one water-soluble polyol, in particular selected from water-soluble diols, triols and high-grade alcohols as well as polyethylene glycols. Among the diols are C ₂ -C ₁₂ diols, in particular 1,2 - propylene glycol, butylene glycols such. For example, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. As 1,2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, z. For example, 1,6-hexanediol. It is further preferred to use glycerol and technical grade oligoglycerin mi with a self-condensation degree of from 1.5 to 10, such as technical grade glycerine with a diglycerin content of from 40 to 50% by weight, or triglycerin 1,2,6-hexanetriol and polyethylene glycols (PEG) having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons, for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000. Other suitable higher alcohols are the C4, C5 and C6 monosaccharides and the corresponding sugar alcohols, eg. Mannitol or sorbitol. The water-soluble polyol is present in amounts of from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

Short description the drawings

The Invention is intended below with reference to embodiments in connection closer with the figures explained become. Show it

1 Figures of an animal experiment using according to the invention a mono-ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid;

2 Illustrations of a further animal experiment using according to the invention a monoammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid.

Ways to execute the invention

Example 1: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

5 % By weight ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in water solved and twice a day applied in the neck area of Wistar rats. It shows up slight thinning of hair growth, but no complete epilation.

Example 2: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

10 % By weight ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in water solved and twice a day applied in the neck area of Wistar rats. It shows up thinning of hair growth and a partial, temporary epilation.

Example 3: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

15 % By weight ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in water solved and twice a day applied in the neck area of Wistar rats. It shows up full Epilation after 12 treatment days.

Example 4: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

15 Wt% ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in PBS solved and twice a day applied in the neck area of Wistar rats. It shows up full Epilation after 12 treatment days.

Example 5: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

15 % By weight of ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were in one Mixture of 20 wt .-% ethanol dissolved in water and twice daily in the neck area of Wistar rats applied. It shows a complete epilation after 12 days of treatment.

Example 6: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

15 % By weight of ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were in one Mixture of 30 wt .-% glycerol dissolved in water and twice daily in the neck area of Wistar rats applied. It shows a complete epilation after 12 days of treatment.

Example 7: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

20% Ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were mixed of 30 wt .-% glycerol dissolved in water (pH 4) and twice daily in Neck area of Wistar rats applied. Already after 2 treatment days if an effect is visible, after 8 days of treatment this is the treated one Skin area epilated.

Example 8: Effect of Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat

20% Ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were mixed of 1% by weight of Triton X100, 10% by weight of urea and 20% by weight of ethanol dissolved in water and twice a day applied in the neck area of Wistar rats. Already after 2 treatment days if an effect is visible, after 8 days of treatment this is the treated one Skin area epilated. The use of the non-ionic detergent Triton X100 shows that epilation by the presence of detergents not hindered.

Comparative Examples 9 and 10: effect of potassium glycyrrhizinate

15% Potassium Glycyrrhizinat (cosmetic quality, K-Gly-Kos) were in one Mixture of 20 wt .-% ethanol dissolved in water and twice daily in the neck area of Wistar rats applied. After 15 days of treatment is no epilation effect visible, noticeable. The solutions were at 50 ° C heated: After another 11 days of treatment no effect. The pH of the solutions became lowered to pH 4 and at 50 ° C. applied: no effect after another 48 days of treatment.

Comparative Example 11 Effect of glycyrrhetinic acid

8.4% glycyrrhetic acid (Fluka, Gly-Reth-Flu) were dissolved in 100% ethanol and twice daily in the neck area of Wistar rats applied. No epilation success after 24 treatment days also no thinning of the coat.

Comparative Example 12: Effect of glycyrrhetinic acid

7.5% glycyrrhetinic acid (Fluka, Gly-Reth-Flu) were used in the formulation of US 5 554 608 and applied 2x daily in the neck area of Wistar rats. No epilation success after 24 days of treatment, no thinning of the coat.

A-Gly-Flu

= Ammonium-Glyzyrrhizinat Fa. Fluka

K-Gly-Flu

= Kalium-Glyzyrrhizinat Fa. Fluka

K-Gly-Kos

= Kalium-Glyzyrrhizinat kosmetische Reinheit

Gly-Reth-Flu

= Glyzyrrhetinsäure Fa. Fluka

The results of the animal experiments are summarized in the following table:

A-Gly-Flu

= Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat Fa. Fluka

K-Gly-Flu

= Potassium glycyrrhizinate Fa. Fluka

K-Gly-Kos

= Potassium glycyrrhizinate cosmetic purity

Gly-Reth-Flu

= Glycyrrhetinic acid Fa. Fluka

The experimental results clearly show the superiority of the ammonium salts used in the invention across from the known from the prior art means. While that Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate or the 18β-glycyrrhetic acid no have hair-removing effect in animal experiments, shows in comparison to the mono-ammonium glycyrrhizinate a clear epilation effect.

Claims (24)

Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid to the epilation. Use according to claim 1, characterized that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are mono-, Di- and / or tri-ammonium salts glycyrrhizic acid is. Use according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mono- and di-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are mixed salts with Na ⁺ and / or K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ . Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the use together with other drugs, herbal medicines and / or other excipients and their Mixtures are done. Use according to claim 4, characterized that the drugs, herbal medicines and others Excipients selected are from the group consisting of thioglycolates, wax, antiandrogens, Spironolactone, elfornithine, inhibitors of protein kinase C, inhibitors of adhesion molecules, ingredients of the sweet wood extract like glabrin, flavonoids, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium salts glycyrrhizic acid, Potassium salt of glycyrrhetinic acid, Extracts from the natural substances Aloe, Scutellaria baicalensis, Zanthomylium, Rehmannia, Clove, Coix, Soybean, Saxifraga, Swertia, Japanese pepper, Podocarpus chinensis, Gynostemma pentaphyllum, henna leaves, Lithospermum, Curcuma longa, and Olibanum (Boswellia) and their mixtures. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the use for cosmetic and / or therapeutic Epilation is done. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the use is made topically. Use according to claim 7, characterized that use in the form of solutions, especially alcoholic Solutions, Tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol, in the form of a wet dressing, an occlusion dressing, patch or stick preparation, especially in the form of a deodorant. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that use following an epilation done by photothermolysis. Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid according to claims 1 to 3 for the treatment of diseases. Use according to claim 10 for the treatment of hypertrichosis, Tiertellnävus and hirsutism. Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid for the preparation of a pharmaceutical preparation or a medicament for the Epilation. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation for Epilation, characterized in that the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation as the active ingredient at least one ammonium salt glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid according to claims 1 to 3 contains. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to Claim 13, characterized in that the contained as an active ingredient Ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid contained in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 90 wt .-%. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to Claim 14, characterized in that the contained as an active ingredient Ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid are contained in an amount of 1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to one of the claims 13 to 15, characterized in that the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation in addition Drugs and / or herbal medicaments according to claims 4 and 5 contains. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to one of the claims 13 to 16, characterized in that it is a pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation for topical application. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to Claim 17, characterized in that the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation in the form of solutions, in particular alcoholic Solutions, Tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol, in the form of a wet dressing, an occlusion dressing, patch or stick preparation, especially in the form of a deodorant. Medicament for epilation, characterized that the drug contains at least one ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid according to claims 1 to 3 contains. Medicament according to Claim 19, characterized that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid contained as active ingredient and / or glycyrrhetinic acid contained in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 90 wt .-%. Medicament according to Claim 20, characterized that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid contained as active ingredient and / or glycyrrhetinic acid are contained in an amount of 1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%. Medicament according to one of claims 19 to 21, characterized in that the drug additionally drugs and / or herbal medicaments according to claims 4 and 5. Medicament according to one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that it is a medicament for topical application is. Medicament according to Claim 23, characterized that the drug in the form of solutions, especially alcoholic Solutions, Tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol, in the form of a wet dressing, an occlusion dressing, patch or stick preparation, especially in the form of a deodorant.