DD267662A1 - COSMETIC PREPARATIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF SKIN AND HAIR - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention has for its object to develop cosmetic preparations for the treatment of skin, hair and body. Due to their surfactant character, the preparations preferably serve for cleaning, but also have versatile care effects. The protein-fatty acid condensation products according to the invention are produced by condensation of the fatty acid esters with a chain length of C 5 -C 21 with enzymatically produced polypeptides of molecular weight 200-2,000 in aqueous media at 50-80 ° C. Due to the chosen reaction conditions, no complete conversion takes place. The reaction products consist of a mixture of 30-40 wt .-% protein fatty acid condensate and 60-70 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate. Through this ideal combination of active ingredients, which combines the nourishing effects of the hydrolyzate in a special way with the surfactant properties and care properties of the protein fatty acid condensates, the cosmetic products are particularly mild and skin-friendly. They have a good wind-up ability on skin and hair and protect the body from aggressive ingredients as well as from environmental influences.

Description

Field of application of the invention

The invention is applicable everywhere where cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of skin, hair and body are used.

The cosmetic products prepared on the basis of protein-fatty acid condensates according to the invention together with enzymatically produced protein hydrolyzates and other starting materials, such as base surfactants, fatty raw materials, emulsifiers, perfume oils, solubilizers, gelling agents, etc., possess a content of protein-fat condensates of Tonsid character and The ^s alb are used especially in mild detergents and cleansers of the skin, hair and body. Together with other cosmetic ingredients they form the basis for nursing rehab specialists. In lotions and creams they improve the application ability and give a pleasant feeling on the skin. They protect both the body from aggressive formulation ingredients, for example in surfactant products and in care preparations from environmental influences. Due to the viscosity-regulating properties, the composition of basic formulations is extended. It is possible to produce both high-viscosity hair, bath and skin care products as low-viscosity surfactant and skin-care preparations which are thus suitable for application forms such as aerosols, pump valves, spray heads, nozzles, etc.

 A further field of use are hair dye preparations in which color aids and Aufziehverbesserer be used.

Characteristic of the known technical solution

It is generally known to protect skin, hair and body from environmental influences by means of cosmetic preparations. The uppermost skin layers, which are essentially composed of collagen and elastin, are damaged by numerous environmental factors and other daily factors, as well as the hair, which mainly consists of keratin, a collagen-related scleroprotein, under the influence of the sun , Wind and weather as well as changing damaging environmental influences Because of the hnutähnlichen character find proteins and protein derivatives application both in the Tensid and in the Piegekosmetik (G. SCHUSTER and A. DOMSCH, soaps, oils, fats, waxes 108,248,1982). It is believed that the protein or protein derivative is absorbed and interacts with the skin to a certain extent forms a protective film In surfactant products such as hair washes, foam and shower baths, therefore, the dormdtological properties are improved by the addition of protein hydrolysates and other derivatives. so that mild surfactant cosmetics are obtained in this way will be.

The use of protein hydrolysates focuses on mild and nourishing effects. Foaming power and foam stability are slightly or slightly positively influenced (H. TRONNIER Arch. Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 221 [1065] 232-249, G. SCHUSTER and H.MODDE, fats, soaps, paints 67 [1965] 347 ). The distribution of condensates is based in particular on the fact that, due to the surfactant character of the condensation products, replacement with an equivalent amount of base surfactant is possible. However, hydrolysates and condensates act differently on the hair and the skin, since the hydrolysates usually have a higher average molecular weight of 3000-20000, while the protein component in protein-fatty acid condensates is degraded much higher and is about 300-1000.

For this reason, in the formulation process it is usually endeavored to use a combination of hydrolyzate and condensate in the cosmetics, so that the care properties can complement one another. The sowing width of protein hydrolysates and protein-fatty acid condensates refers in surfactant formulations to all conventional Sasietenside such as fatty alcohol ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkylbenzenesulfonates, which have good skin-compatible properties in combination with protein fatty acid condensates.

The described effects and applied protein fatty acid condensates are only compounds consisting of proteins in the molar mass range 300-1000 and in which the fatty acid component consists of derivatives of vegetable fatty acids such as coconut oil fatty acid and oleic acid or synthetic fatty acids of these chain length ranges. Thus, the available possibilities of existing and technically available fatty acids are limited.

Object of the invention

The aim of the invention is the preparation of effective cosmetic preparations for the treatment of skin, hair and body. The cosmetic preparations should be well on the skin and hair and protect in conjunction with various basic formulas from negative environmental influences.

At the same time, the aggressive effects of base surfactants are eliminated and mild cleansing and personal care products are obtained.

Explanation of the essence of the invention

According to the invention the object is achieved in that in the formulations in addition to other customary cosmetic ingredients such as base surfactants, fat raw materials, emulsifiers, perfume oils, solubilizers, gelling agents, etc. novel protein-fatty acid condensates, which are characterized by a defined proportion of non-condensed hydrolyzate, are used. These condensates consist of enzymatically produced egg hydrolyzates having a molecular weight range of 200 to 5000, preferably 200-2000, with shorter-chain cuts of fatty acids.

The protein-fatty acid condensates of the general formula I are prepared by condensation of the fatty acid esters with the corresponding peptanane.

π - c * ι

* NH - R ·

R = straight-chain, branched or aryl-substituted alkyl radical of the chain length C5-C21, preferably C7-C17 R '= peptide residue in the molar mass range 200-5000, preferably 200-2000 The required protein hydrolysates are enzymatically z. B. after the GDR commercial patent 212983 from Leather waste, gelatin, horn, feathers or biomass obtained from paraffins. The reaction takes place between 50 and 80 ° C, preferably at 75 ° C, at a pH of 7-10, preferably 8-9 and below Addition of catalysts. Unreacted carboxylic acid ester can be obtained after completion of the reaction by separating the phases

be removed without further extraction and purification steps are required.

The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is clear, honey-colored and has a weak inherent odor. It consists of

a mixture of 30-40% by weight of protein-fatty acid condensate and 60-70% by weight of protein hydrolyzate.

Through this ideal combination of active ingredients, the nurturing effects in a special way with the surfactant properties of the Condensates are particularly skin-friendly properties achieved in cosmetics. Interfacial chemical measurements show the surfactant properties of the hydrolyzate / condensate mixture. When measuring foamability and wetting properties, typical values are obtained for the substance class. The protein dissolving power of surfactant formulations is achieved by the addition of the active ingredient combination according to the invention

greatly reduced and thus the Hautverträglichkoit improved.

The viscosity behavior of Tensldformulierungen is at choice of suitable base surfactants depending on the amount of the additive

the drug combination affected.

embodiments The embodiments relate to hair washing and care products and shower and bath products with different Basic surfactant , deodorant formulations and care preparation. tees like lotions and creams containing Protein derivatives derived from enzymatically derived proteins of the molecular weight range of 200-5000 according to the ester variant

and fatty acids of chain lengths C 5-C 21, preferably C7-C17 and other customary cosmetic ingredients.

The active ingredient combination of protein hydrolyzate and condensate is used in the formulation short-term formulation EH / EFK

designated.

Example 1 (shampoo) Masseteilo

Fatty alcohol ether sulfate 30% 20-50 coconut fatty acid diethanolamide 3-5

Active substance EH / EFK 5-15

Perfume oil, preservative ad 100 active ingredients, water

Example 2 (shampoo)

Alkyl sulfonate 90%! G Alkyl benzene sulfonate 50% active ingredient EH / EFK Active substances, water

Example 3 (shower room)

Fettalkoholethersulfat30% strength

coconut fatty acid diethanolamide

amphoteric

WirkstoffEH / EFK

Perfume oil, preservative

Active ingredients, water

Example 4 (bubble bath / shower bath)

Alkyl sulfonate 90% alkyl benzene sulphonate 50% active ingredient EH / EFK perfume oil, preservative active ingredients, water

Example 5 (shower room)

Alkylsulfat90% strength

sulfosuccinic esters

WirkstoffEH / EFK

Perfume oil, preservative

Active ingredients, water

Ba example β (hair cure)

Mono- and diglycerides of

Palmitic and stearic acid

Cosmetic oil component

glycerin

WirkstoffEH / EFK

Perfume oil, preservative

Active ingredient, water

Example 7 (Maintenance Test)

alcohol

Active ingredient EH / EFK solubilizer perfume oil, active ingredients water

Example 8 (conditioner agent)

Cetyl alcohol Glycerol monostearate Active substance EH / EFK Perfume oil, emulsifier active ingredient, water

Example 9 (care lotion)

ethanol

emulsifier

fatty acid

triethanolamine

WirkstoffEH / EFK

Perfume oil, active ingredients

preservative

Solubilizer, water

parts by weight

5-10

5-10

5-15

ad 100

Mass parts 30-50

2-3

1-5

5-10 ad 100

parts by weight

5-10

5-10

5-10

ad 100

Parts by weight 5-15 5

5-10 ad 100

parts by weight

5-10 5-8 4-6 5-10 ad 100

massaged

5-50

1-10

0.5-10

ad 100

parts by weight

1-5

1-5

3-10

ad 100

Parts by weight 5-30 1-5 0.5-3 0.25-1.5 0.5-10 ad

Example 10 (Pftegegel) parts by weight Polyquatgel 50% 1-4 Active substance EH / EFK 1-10

Alcohol 5-30

Perfume oil, active ingredients ad 100 water

Example 11 (care cream) parts by weight

Emulsifier 5-10

Coemulsifier 5-10 Cosmetic oil component 3-8 Active substance EH / EFK 1-10

Perfume oil, active ingredients ad 100 preservative, water

Example 12 (Deolotion) parts by weight

Alcohol 10-40

Active substance EH / EFK 1-10 Deodorant agents 0.1-0.5

Perfume, solubilizer ad 100 consistency gout, water

Claims (6)

1. Cosmetic preparations for the treatment of skin, hair and body, consisting of surfactants, fatty raw materials, emulsifiers, perfume oils, solubilizers, gelling agents and other customary in cosmetics starting materials in aqueous or aqueous alcoholic and alcoholic solutions having a pH of 4- 9, characterized in that they contain a cosmetically effective amount of protein-fatty acid condensates (EFK) together with enzymatically produced hydrolysates. 2. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the protein component preferably consists of collagen-containing material which has been produced by microbial hydrolysis. 3. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation of the active ingredient by reaction of acid esters with protein hydrolysates in aqueous solution at temperatures between 50-80 ⁰ C. 4. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 3, characterized in that in the active ingredient, the protein component has a molecular weight of 200-5000, preferably 200-2000. 5. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that in the active ingredient, the protein-fatty acid condensate acid residue as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or aryl-substituted alkyl radical of the chain length C5-C21, preferably C7-C17. 6. Cosmetic preparations according to claims 1-5, characterized in that they contain protein-fatty acid condensates together with enzymatically produced protein hydrolysates in a total amount of 0.5 to 40Gew .-%, preferably 2-10Gew .-%.