CZ446899A3 - Cosmetic preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin it contains a cyclodextrin compound and salicylic acid or a salicylic acid derivative wherein the composition is in the form a water-in-silicone emulsion having a continuous silicone oil containing a phase and a discontinuous aqueous phase. Cosmetic the compositions herein exhibit improved efficacy anti acne / anti-inflammatory efficacy together with reduced irritation.

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and, in particular, to pigmented makeup compositions and topcoats

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The primer is applied to the face and other parts of the body to balance skin tone and texture and to hide pores, defects, fine wrinkles, etc. The primer is also applied to moisturize the skin, balance skin oil level and provide protection against the adverse effects of sunlight , wind and harsh environment. Make-up compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, compressed powders, or anhydrous oil and wax compositions. Such cosmetic makeup compositions are described in US-A-3,444,291, US-A-4,486,405, US-A-4,804,532, US-A-3,978,207, US-A-4,659,562, US-A-5,143,722 and in Nakamura et al. Preliminary copy XIV. Congress of I.F.S.C.C., Barcelona, 1986, Vol. I, pp. 51-63 (1986).

Substrates in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are known and provide good coverage and good skin feel, abrasion and appearance. At the same time, it would be desirable to provide a support composition having topical (topical) activity against acne. It would also be desirable to provide a substrate that is soft to the skin and which causes little or no skin irritation. There are many compounds known to exhibit anti-acne properties when applied topically to the skin. A commonly used keratolytic agent having anti-acne activity is salicylic acid. Since salicylic acid is practically insoluble in water, it is difficult to incorporate it into the aqueous phase of a water-in-oil emulsion. While salicylic acid may be supplied from a pigment comprising the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion of the base composition, this may lead to discolouration of the composition due to the interaction between salicylic acid and pigments, especially iron oxide pigments. Therefore, it would be desirable to deliver salicylic acid in soluble form from the aqueous phase of a water-in-oil emulsion.

Attempts have been made to improve the aqueous phase solubility of salicylic acid. One way to achieve this is to use alcohol-based solvents such as ethanol. However, such compositions are sharp and cause skin irritation. Another way to help dissolve

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Salicylic acid in aqueous systems is the use of dissolving acids such as PVP. For example, WO 95/04517 discloses a make-up composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active agent dissolved in an aqueous phase and a pigment or mixture of pigments dispersed in an oil phase. PVP is reported as a complexing agent to promote the dissolution of salicylic acid. Yet another way of aiding the dissolution of salicylic acid is the use of cyclodextrin compounds. Cyclodextrin compounds are known to form inclusion complexes with salicylic acid to aid dissolution in aqueous systems. Ointment formulations containing cyclodextrin compounds and salicylic acid are known from the following documents: "Effect of cyclodextrins and other additives on the release of salicylic acid from various ointment bases", Yakuzaigaku, 50 (4), 341-346 (1990) and "Effect" additives for drug release from ointment bases', Yakuzaigaku, 42 (1), 10-16 (1982).

Despite the ability to dissolve salicylic acid in the aqueous phases of cosmetic compositions using the methods described above, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions having improved anti-acne / anti-inflammatory activity, along with skin softness / reduced skin irritation.

It has now surprisingly been found that by incorporating a salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative and a cyclodextrin compound into a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a discontinuous aqueous phase and a silicone containing continuous phase, a composition having improved acne / antibacterial activity , together with reduced skin irritation.

Therefore, it is a primary object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition having improved acne efficacy.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition having reduced skin irritation.

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SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising salicylic acid or a salicylic acid derivative and a cyclodextrin compound, wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a discontinuous aqueous phase and a continuous silicone containing phase.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide improved acne / anti-inflammatory activity, softness and reduced skin irritation.

All levels and ratios are based on the total composition weight unless otherwise indicated. Chain lengths and degrees of alkoxylation are also specified based on average weight.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a cyclodextrin compound and a salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative.

Cyclodextrin compound

The first essential ingredient of cosmetic compositions herein is a cyclodextrin compound. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrin" (CD) includes unsubstituted cyclodextrins that contain from six to twelve glucose units, particularly alpha-, beta-, gamma-, cyclodextrins, and / or derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof capable of to form inclusion complexes with salicylic acid or derivatives of salicylic acid.

There are many derivatives of cyclodextrins that are known. Representative derivatives are disclosed in: US-A-3,426,011, Parmerter et al., Issued Feb. 4, 1969; US-A-3,453,257, US-A-3,453,258, US-A-3,453,259, US-A-3,453,260, all in the name of Parmerter et al. and all of July 1, 1969; US-A-3,459,731, Gramera et al., Issued Aug. 5, 1969; US-A-2,553,191, Parmerter et al., Issued Jan. 5, 1971; US-A-3,565,887, Parmerter et al., Issued Feb. 23, 1971; US-A4,535,152, Szejtli et al., Issued Aug. 13, 1985; US-A-4,616,008, Hirai et al., Issued Oct. 7, 1986; US-A4,638,058, Brandt et al., Issued Jan. 20, 1987; US-A-4,746,734, Tsuchiyama et al., Issued May 24, 1988; and US-A-4,678,598, Ogino et al., issued July 7, 1987, all of which are incorporated by reference

-4 · © ··· © © · © · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · Examples of cyclodextrin derivatives suitable for use herein are methyl-beta-cyclodextrin, hydroxyethyl-beta-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin of various degrees of substitution (DS).

Individual cyclodextrins can also be coupled, for example using multifunctional reagents, to form oligomers, polymers, etc. Examples of such materials are betacyclodextrin / epichlorohydrin copolymers.

Mixtures of cyclodextrins are also suitable to provide a mixture of complexes. Cyclodextrin mixtures are conveniently obtained by using intermediates from known cyclodextrin methods, including those described in US-A-3,425,910, Armbruster et al., Issued Feb. 4, 1969; US-A-3,812,011, Okada et al., Issued May 21, 1974; US-A-4,317,881, Yagi et al., Issued Mar. 2, 1982; US-A-4,418,144, Okada et al., Issued Nov. 29, 1983; and US-A4,738,923, Ammeraal, issued April 19, 1988, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Preferred cyclodextrin compounds for use in the compositions herein are hydroxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl-cyclodextrins, especially hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin.

The cyclodextrin compound is present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention at a level of from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.8% to 15%, in particular from 4% to 12% by weight of the composition.

A second essential component of the compositions herein is salicylic acid or a salicylic acid derivative. The term "salicylic acid derivative" as used herein means any 2,3 or 4-OR substituted benzoic acid compound having the general formula:

COOH

wherein R is selected from C 1 -C ₆ alkyl or C 1 -C 6 acyl, preferably wherein R is selected from C ₂ -C ₃ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₃ acyl. Salicylic acid is particularly preferred herein.

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The salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative is present in an amount that is safe and affective to provide activity against acne / anti-inflammatory activity and preferably at a level of from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% and especially from 0% to 0%. , 5% to 2% by weight of the composition.

The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein means a sufficient amount of a compound, composition or other material described by this term to significantly induce a positive change in the condition being treated, but low enough to avoid inappropriate side effects ( eg significant skin irritation or sensitization), within the judgment of the practitioner. The safe and effective amount of the compound, composition or other material varies according to the particular skin being treated, the age and physical condition of the biological subject being treated, the severity of the condition, the duration of treatment, the nature of concurrent treatment, specific compound, composition or other material used. local (topical) carrier and factors within the knowledge and experience of the practitioner.

Water emulsion in silicone

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a silicone oil comprising a continuous phase and an aqueous discontinuous phase.

The emulsion compositions herein preferably comprise from 20% to 95%, more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight of a silicone oil-containing phase and from 5% to 80%, more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight of the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase preferably comprises from 40% to 90%, more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight of the aqueous phase of water. The total level of water in the compositions herein ranges from 10% to 60%, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight of the composition.

Phase containing silicone oil

The composition comprises a continuous silicone oil containing a phase.

In preferred embodiments, the phase-containing silicone oil comprises a mixture of volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones. Silicones are useful herein to provide skin conditioning properties. Silicone fluid is present in an amount of from 1% to 50%

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9 9 wt. Suitable volatile silicones include cyclic and non-cyclic volatile polyorganosiloxanes. The term "non-volatile" as used herein means that the material has a vapor pressure of not more than 0.1 mmHg (13.3 Pa) at one atmosphere (98.07 kPa) and 25 ° C. The term "volatile" as used herein means materials that are not non-volatile or which have a vapor pressure under the same conditions of greater than 0.1 mm Hg (13.3 Pa).

A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd et al., "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics," 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries 27-32 (1976).

Preferred cyclic silicones include cyclic dimethylsiloxane chains containing on average from 3 to 9 silicon atoms, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Preferred non-cyclic silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes containing on average from 3 to 9 silicon atoms. Non-cyclic volatile silicones generally have viscosities less than 5 centistokes (5 to 10 ^'4 m ² / s) at 25 ° C while the cyclic materials have viscosities less than 10 centistokes (10 ^-3 m ² / s). Examples of silicone oils that are useful for the present invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation); Silicone 7207 and Silikone 7158 (manufactured by Union Carbide Corporation). SF: 202 (manufactured by General Electric) and SWS-03314 (manufactured by Stauffer Chemical).

The non-volatile silicones will have vapor pressures as defined above and preferably will have an average viscosity of from 10 to 100,000 cP (10 ^-2 to 10 ² Pa-s) at 25 ° C, more preferably from 100 to 10,000 cP (10 to 10,000 cP ^). Pa-s), more preferably from 500 to 6000 cP (0.5 to 6 Pa-s). However, lower viscosity non-volatile silicone conditioning agents are also useful. The viscosity is measured with a glass capillary viscometer as determined in the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004 of July 20, 1970.

Suitable non-volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, amino-functional substituted polysiloxanes, polyetheriloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The siloxanes useful in this patent are substituted and / or terminated by any number of groups as long as the material remains suitable for use in a topical (topical) cosmetic product, including, for example, methyl, hydroxyl, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, amino, and carboxyl. However, other silicone fluids having skin conditioning properties may be used. Useful nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxane fluids include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil ™ series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series.

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Preferably the viscosity is in the range of from 10 mm ² -S 'to the MRA 100 000 · ^2/1 (10 @ ⁵ to 10 @ ^-1 m ^{2 -s)} at 25 ° C. Useful polyalkylarylsiloxane fluids also include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric Company as methylphenyl SF 1075 or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Useful polyether siloxane copolymers include, for example, polypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane (eg, Dow Corning DC-1248), although ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used.

References which disclose suitable silicone fluids include US-A-2,826,551, Green; US-A-3,964,500, Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; US-A-4,364,837 to Pader; and GBA-849,433, Woolston. In addition, Silicone Compounds, distributed by Petrarch System Inc, 1984, provides a broad (though not exclusive) list of silicone fluids.

Preferred nonvolatile silicones for use herein include polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers comprising at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment. The polydiorganosiloxane segment has the general formula:

RbSiO (4-b) / 2 siloxane units, wherein b has a value from 0 to 3 inclusive, where the average value is about two R groups per silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer and R denotes a group selected from methyl, ethyl , vinyl, phenyl and divalent groups that bind said polyoxyalkylene segment to a polydiorganosiloxane segment. The polyoxyalkylene segment has an average molecular weight of at least 500, preferably at least 1000, and contains from 0 to 50 mole percent polyoxypropylene units and from 50 to 100 mole percent polyoxyethylene units, at least one terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment is grafted or covalently attached directly or indirectly to the polydiorganosiloxane segment any end portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment that is not bound to said polydiorganosiloxane segment is saturated with an end group; the weight ratio of the polydiorganosiloxane segments to the polyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer preferably has a value of from 2 to 8. Such polymers are described in US-A-4,268,499.

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Preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the general formula:

R ¹ R ¹ R ¹ . AND R '- Si-Οι 1 -Si —0 AND -Si —οι R ¹ X AND -o — 3- and.

R ¹

R ¹ (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C 3 H _e O) _b R wherein R ¹ is selected from Cl to C5 alkyl, preferably methyl, a is in the range 1 to 4, x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane of the segments to polyoxyalkylene segments is from 2 to 8, the molar ratio of a: (a + b) is from 0.5 to 1, and R is a chain end group, especially selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl groups; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, for example phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino such as dimethylamino.

More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the general formula:

CHCH,

CHCHH-jC- Si -O- (Si-O) - (Si-O) '—Si-CH

CH,

CH,

CH ⁰ - "W" a ^(C 3 ^H 6 ^O> b ^R where x, y and R are as defined above.

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The numbers and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight fraction of the polydiorganosiloxane segments to the polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from 2.5 to 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are commercially available under the brands Belsil ™ from WackerChemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, P.O. Box D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil ™ from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL. Particularly preferred for use herein are Belsil ™ 6031, Abil ™ B88183, DC3225C, DC5200,

Abil We09, Abil EM90, BY22-008 (Dow Corning) and SF 1328 (GE Silicones). The preferred silicone herein is known under the CTFA designation as dimethicone copolyol (dimethicone copolyol).

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 20% to 95% by weight of the composition of a silicone oil containing phase. The silicone oil-containing phase preferably comprises from 0.01% to 25%, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a silicone oil comprising the phases of non-volatile silicones. The silicone oil-containing phase preferably comprises from 75% to 99.99%, more preferably from 90% to 99.95% by weight of the silicone oil containing the volatile silicone phases.

The silicone oil containing phases in the water-in-silicone emulsions of the invention also comprises one or more non-silicone organic oils, for example, a natural or synthetic oil selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their compositions which are useful for achieving emollient cosmetic properties. It is understood that the silicone oil-containing phase comprises, for example, up to 25%, preferably only up to 10% of the oil phase, of soluble emulsifiers. Such additives are not considered as components in the determination of the oil phase level.

Suitable organic oils for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted C8-C50 unsaturated fatty acids and their esters, C1-C24 C8-C30 saturated fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecyl myristate (Wickenol 142), bee wax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalene, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, October 26, 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, apricot seed oil, walnut oil, palm nut oil, pistachio nut oil, sesame seed oil, rapeseed oil, oil

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juniper wood, corn oil, peach seed oil, poppy oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, sailor oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, bambud butter, shorea butter and sunflower seed oil; and C1-C24 esters of dimeric and trimeric acids, such as diisopropyldimerate, diisostearyl malate, diisostearyl dimimerate, and triisostearyltrimerate. Of these, mineral oils, petrolatum, unsaturated fatty acids and their esters and mixtures thereof are highly preferred.

Optional additives

A wide variety of optional ingredients are incorporated into the compositions. The following are non-limiting examples of numerous useful ingredients.

Acidic active substance for skin care

In addition to salicylic acid or a salicylic acid derivative, the compositions of the present invention also comprise an acidic active ingredient for skin care.

Suitable acidic active ingredients for skin care are selected from hydroxycarboxylic acids. As used herein, the term acidic skin care active ingredient means any skin care active ingredient that contains an acidic functional group (eg, carboxy, sulfones).

Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are selected from hydroxymonocarboxylic acids having the following general formula:

R 1 (CH ₂ OH) _m (CH ₂ ) n COOH wherein R 1, R ₂ = H, alkyl, arylalkyl or aryl of a saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain or cyclic form having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; m = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9; n = 0 or a number up to 23.

The hydroxymonocarboxylic acid is present as the free acid, lactone or in the form of a salt. The lactone form is either an inter- or intramolecular lactone, but the most common are intramolecular lactones with a ring structure, which consists of the exclusion of one or more molecules between a hydroxy group and a carboxyl group. Since the hydroxymonocarboxylic acids are organic in nature, they form salts or complexes with inorganic or organic salts. 11 ··········· 11 11. ····· With a base such as ammonium hydroxide, sodium or potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine.

The hydroxymonocarboxylic acid and its related compounds also exist as stereoisomers, for example in forms D, L and DL.

Typical alkyl, arylalkyl and aryl groups for R 1 and R ₂ include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, benzyl and phenyl. The hydrogen atoms of R 1 and R ₂ and (CH ₂ ) _n are substituted with non-functional elements, for example F, Cl, Br, I, S or with a group such as lower alkyl or alkoxy, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 9 atoms. Representative hydroxymonocarboxylic acids are 2-hydroxyacetic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl-2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyl lactic acid), 2hydroxybutanoic acid, phenyl-2-hydroxyacetic acid (mandelic acid), phenyl-2-methyl-2-hydroxyacetic acid, 3-phenyl-2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyl lactic acid), acid

2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid), 2,3,4-trihydroxybutyric acid, acid

2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid, 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid, 2hydroxydodecanoic acid (alpha-hydroxylauric acid), 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid, diphenyl- 2-hydroxyacetic acid (benzilic acid), 4-hydroxymandelic acid, 4-chloromandelic acid, 3-hydroxybutanoic acid, 4-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 5-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 12-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 16 -hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methylpentanoic acid, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxymandelic acid, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxymandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutanoic acid, 3- ( 2-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, 3- (4-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, hexahydroxymandelic acid, 3-hydroxy-3-methylpentanoic acid, 4-hydroxydecanoic acid, 5-hydroxydecanoic acid and aleuritic acid.

Another type of hydroxy acid suitable for use herein is hydroxydicarboxylic acid having the following general formula:

HOOC (CHOH) _m (CH ₂ ) _n COOH wherein m = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9; n = 0 or an integer up to 23.

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The hydroxydicarboxylic acid is also present as the free acid, lactone or in the form of a salt. Hydroxydicarboxylic acid and its related compounds also exist as stereoisomers, for example, D, L, DL and mesoforms.

Hydrogen, which is attached to a carbon atom, is substituted with non-functional elements such as F,

Cl, Br, I, S or a group, e.g. lower alkyl or alkoxy, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 9 atoms.

Representative hydroxymonocarboxylic acids are 2-hydroxypropanedioic acid (tartronic acid), 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid (malic acid), erythraric acid, tartaric acid, arabiraric acid, ribaric acid, xylaric acid and lyxaric acid, glucaric acid (sugar acid), galactaric acid (mucic acid), mannaric acid, gularic acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, idaric acid, and talic acid.

The third type of hydroxyacids useful herein is a diverse group of compounds that is not readily expressed by the aforementioned generic formula of either the first or second type described above. The third type of hydroxy acids include the following:

Hydroxycarboxylic acids of general formula:

R (OH) _m (COOH) _n wherein m, n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9, R = H, alkyl, arylalkyl or aryl saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched chain or cyclic forms having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; citric acid, isocitronic acid, citric acid, agaric acid (n-hexadecylcitronic acid), quinic acid, uronic acid including glucuronic acid, glucuronlactone, galacturonic acid, galacturonlactone, hydroxypyruvic acid, hydroxypyruvic acid phosphate, di-sorbic acid, di-sorbic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutanoic acid, 1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanedial, 5-hydroxylysine, 3-hydroxy-2-aminopentanoic acid, tropic acid, 4-hydroxy-2,2, -diphenylbutanoic acid, 3- hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid and 4-hydroxy-3-pentenoic acid.

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A third type of hydroxy acid is also present as the free acid, lactone or in the form of a salt and also occurs as stereoisomers, for example, as D, L, DL and mesoforms.

The hydrogen atom which is attached to the carbon atom is substituted with non-functional elements, for example F, Cl, Br, I, S or with a group, e.g. lower saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkoxy having 1 to 9 atoms.

Mixtures of hydroxy acids are also useful in the compositions herein.

Hydroxy acids are useful herein to reduce wrinkles and improve skin feel and appearance.

Other suitable hydroxy acids for use herein include retinoic acid and azelaic acid.

The acidic skin care active ingredient is present at a level of from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight of the composition.

The acidic skin care active ingredient is dissolved in water or a hydroalcoholic solution, for example in solutions based on C ₂ -C 6 alcohols, diols and polyols, preferably alcohols selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention also comprise, in addition to the cyclodextrin compound, a dissolving agent for dissolving the acidic skin care active and / or salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative. Any dissolving agent that is suitable for use in the cosmetic composition is useful. The preferred solvent for use herein is selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene ethers of C4 to C22 alcohols, pyrrolidone-based solubilizers, polyethylene glycol-based nonionic surfactants having an HLB of greater than 15, preferably greater than 18, and mixtures thereof.

Pyrrolidone-based solubilizers suitable for use herein include vinylpyrrolidone or C1-C4 alkylpoly vinylpyrrolidone poles having a relative molecular weight (viscosity diameter) ranging from 1,500 to 1,500,000, preferably from 3 Suitable examples of pyrrolidone-based solvents are polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (or povidone) and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone.

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The most preferred pyrrolidone-based solubilizer herein is polyvinylpyrrolidone.

PVP is commercially available under the Luviskol ™ brand from BASF. A preferred PVP solubilizer herein is Luviskol K17, which has a relative molecular weight of a viscosity diameter of 9,000. Other pyrrolidone-based solubilizers for use herein include C 1 -C 18 alkyl- or hydroxyalkylpyrrolidones such as laurylpyrrolidone.

The pyrrolidone-based solubilizer is preferably present in the composition herein at a level of from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the composition.

Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight of an additional acid or salt thereof which is soluble in water at pH less than or equal to pK _{and the} corresponding acids, for example acids selected from citric acid, boric acid and salts and mixtures thereof. These materials are valuable herein in combination with a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent for promoting the solubility of the acidic active ingredient for treating the skin / salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative. Particularly preferred herein in this regard is the citric acid sodium salt. In preferred embodiments, the acid or salt thereof is at a level of at least 5% by weight at 25 ° C.

A particularly preferred solubilizing agent in the compositions of the present invention is a nonionic surfactant selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene ethers of C4-C22 alcohols and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactant is valuable herein as a solubilizer of the acidic active ingredient for treating the skin in the discontinuous aqueous phase.

Suitable polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene esters of C4-C22 alcohols for use herein include those having the general formula:

R (OCHCH _{2) x (OCH2 CH2) y} OH

CH ₃ wherein x is from 1 to 35, preferably from 1 to 10, y is from 1 to 45, preferably from 1 to 30, and R is a straight or branched chain C 4 -C 22 alkyl group or a mixture thereof. In preferred embodiments, (x + y) is greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 15. The ratio x: y ranges from 1: 1 to 1: 10.

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Examples of suitable R groups in the above general formula include cetyl, butyl, stearyl, cetearyl, decyl, lauryl and myristyl.

Examples of suitable polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene alcohol ethers include (CTFA labeled) PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5Ceteth-20, PPG -8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Buteth-3, PPG-2- Buteth-5, PPG-5-Buteth-7, PPG-9-Buteth-12, PPG-28-Buteth-3 5, PPG-12-Buteth-16, PPG-15-Buteth-20, PPG-20-Buteth-3 PPG-24-Buteth-27

PPG-26- Buteth-26, PPG-33-Buteth-45, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4, Ceteareth-12, PPG-10Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-4- Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-2Deceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-isodeceth-12, PPG-3-isodeceth-1, PPG-4-laureth-5, PPG-4-laureth-2, PPG-4-laureth-7, PPG-5-laureth-5, PPG- 25-Laureth-25, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-3-Myreth-3, and PPG-9-Steareth-3.

Preferred polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers for use herein are ethers of C8 to 06 alcohols having the general formula (I) wherein x is from 2 to 12 and y is from 10 to 30 and wherein the x: y ratio is in the range of 1: 2 to 1: 8.

Particularly preferred polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene ethers of C4 to C22 alcohols for use herein are those having the above general formula (I) wherein R is cetyl and wherein x is from 4 to 8 and wherein y is from 15 to 15 25 and the ratio x: y ranges from 1: 3 to 1: 5. A particularly preferred ether for improving the solubility of acidic active ingredients for skin care is PPG-5-Ceteth-20, available under the Procetyl AWS brand.

The dissolving agent herein is preferably present at a level of from 0.1% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 10%, especially from 2% to 8% by weight of the composition.

Preferred embodiments herein comprise a pigment or mixture of pigments. The pigment used herein must be compatible with any acidic skin care active / salicylic acid / salicylic acid derivative present in the composition and have excellent overall color fastness. Suitable pigments for use herein are inorganic and / or organic. Also included in the term pigment are materials having a weak color or shimmer, for example, matt finishes as well as light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, titanium dioxide - rutile, titanium dioxide - anatase, iron oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, violet

Manganese, acylglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. - 16 ♦ · man 16 man man man man man Depending on the type of make-up composition, for example a foundation or blusher, a mixture of pigments is normally used.

The backing composition also comprises at least one matt mixing agent. The function of the matte tanning agent is to mask skin defects and reduce shine. Cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents that are included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingriedient Dictionary, 3rd Edition, for example, silica, hydrated silica, silicone treated silica beads, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, atapulgite - zinc oxide and the like. Especially useful as a matt mixing agent are low-glitter pigments, for example titanium mica (mica coated with titanium dioxide), coated with barium sulfate.

Among the inorganic components useful as the low-shine pigment of the matte fining agent, talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Materials suitable for use herein as light scattering agents can generally be described as spherically shaped inorganic materials having a particle size of up to 100 microns, preferably from 5 to 50 microns, for example, spherical silica particles.

Other examples of pigments include organic dye lacquers such as FD & C red lacquer # 7, FD & C yellow lacquer # 5, D&C red lacquer # 9 and D&C red lacquer # 30.

Preferred pigments for use herein with respect to wetting, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are refined pigments. The pigments may be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as lysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin, and ester oils. More preferred pigments are silicone (polysiloxane) treated pigments.

A highly preferred pigment for use herein is a pigment that is coated with an organosilicone component selected from polyorganosiloxane or silane, wherein the coated pigment has a hydrogen potential of less than 2.0, preferably less than 1.0, more preferably less than 0.5 ml and in particular less than 0.1 ml of H ₂ / g coated pigment. The pigment suitable for use herein is in particulate form. The pigment is incorporated into the continuous oil phase in the compositions herein. The coatings used are bound to the pigment surface by covalent bonding, physical adsorption or adhesion, preferably by covalent bonding to the pigment surface. Functions

-17 · · · 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 The coatings herein are hydrophobically modifying pigments to be "wettable" in the continuous silicone phase of water-in-silicone emulsions. The coated pigment is also useful herein in reducing hydrogen gas evolution and improving product stability.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that although pigments are present in the oil phase of a water-in-oil emulsion, hydrogen ions from the aqueous phase are able to pass through the emulsion interface to the oil phase where they are available for reaction with pigment coatings, e.g. hydrogen. However, the use of organosilicon coated pigments having a hydrogen potential of less than 2 ml H ₂ / g of coated pigment reduces hydrogen gas evolution.

The hydrogen potential of the coated pigment is measured herein using the following test method:

The coated pigment dispersion containing 20 g of the coated pigment was placed in a flask with a magnetic stirrer and 100 ml of a 2% ethanolic potassium hydroxide solution was added with stirring at ambient temperature. The hydrogen gas released is collected in a second flask at ambient temperature and pressure (25 ° C, 1 at). The volume of hydrogen gas released is measured.

A wide variety of organosilicon components can be used to treat the pigments herein. A suitable polyorganosiloxane herein is selected from:

(A) a material of the general formula:

(R ¹ ) 3 SiO- (Si (R ² R ³ ) O) p -Si (R ² R ³ ) OA ₂ wherein p is 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 100, A ₂ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, R ¹ is C 1 -C ₃₀ alkyl, preferably methyl, R ² and R ³ are independently selected from C 1 -C 30 alkyl and phenyl, preferably wherein R ² and R ³ are both methyl or R ² is methyl and R ³ is phenyl; or (B) a material of the general formula:

(R ') ₃ SiO (Si (R ² ) (H) -O) i -Si (R ¹ ) 3

-18 # # # * * * * • ••• to • ••• to · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · Wherein i is 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 100, and wherein R ¹ and R ² are as defined in formula (A).

In preferred embodiments, the organosilicon component is selected from silane. The silane is selected from a material having the general formula:

(C) A, SiX ₁ X ₂ X ₃ wherein A is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and X 1, X ₂ and X ₃ are independently C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, preferably methoxy or ethoxy, or halogen, preferably chlorine .

When the pigment herein is treated with a polyorganosiloxane material having the general formula (C) described hereinabove, a pigment having the following general formula (1) is formed:

P-O-Si (OH) (A) - [- O-Si (OH) (A) -] o-10o-OH where P is an atom in the pigment surface and A is an alkyl or alkenyl group having carbon atoms . The number of adjacent polysiloxane chains, as shown in formula (1), crosslinks with oxygen atoms to form a polysiloxane chain with up to 100 repeating -Si (-OP) -O- units that extend over the pigment surface, except for the polysiloxane chain, that protrudes from the pigment surface. Examples of non-cyclic or branched alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, etc. up to octadecyl. "Alkenyl" includes carbon chains with one or more double bonds; examples of such groups include ethylene, propylene, acrylyl, methacrylyl and unsaturated fatty acid residues such as oleic (C17H33-), linoleic (C17H31-) and linolenic (C17H29-).

When the pigment herein is treated with a polyorganosiloxane material having the above general formula (A), a pigment having the following general formula (2) is formed:

PO- (Si (R ² R ³ ) O) p-Si (R ¹ ) 3 (2) wherein p is 1-1000, preferably 1 to 100, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are defined as above for the general formula (A) and P is an atom in the pigment surface.

9

When the pigment herein is treated with a polyorganosiloxane material having the general formula (B) described above, a pigment having the following general formula (3) is formed:

(R 1 SiO 1 -SiCR 1 -OP 1 O-1-SiPCRX (3) wherein each P is an atom in the pigment surface, p is from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 100, R ¹ and R ² are defined as above in the general formula (B) and wherein each of up to 100 repeating (Si-O) units is bound by an oxygen atom to the pigment surface.

The pigment (or a mixture of two or more pigments) is coated by placing the pigment in a dry, finely divided form in a mixer, adding the organosilicon component and mixing. The organosilicon coating is preferably present at a level of from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the organosilicon coated pigment.

The most preferred coated pigment to reduce hydrogen gas evolution and improve product stability is Cardre 70429.

The total concentration of the coated pigment is from 0.1 to 25% by weight and preferably is from 1 to 15%, more preferably from 8 to 12% by weight of the total composition, the exact concentration being dependent to some extent on the specific pigment mixtures selected for the base make-up. blusher to achieve the desired shades. Preferred compositions comprise from 2% to 20% by weight of titanium dioxide and most preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of titanium dioxide.

A highly preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectant or mixture of humectants. The humectant or humectant mixture herein is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of the composition. Suitable humectants are selected from glycerin and polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants having a viscosity at 25 ° C of 300,000 to 1,100,000 cP (3 to 11 kPa-s); density at 25 ° C 1 to 1.2 g / ml and pH 5.0 to 5.5; bound water content of 33 to 58%; and a free water content of from 5 to 20%.

The humectant is incorporated at least partially into the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. The oil phase preferably contains from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight of the humectant, based on the composition. The humectant is introduced into the oil phase as a mixture ·· ··

9 9 9

9 9 9 9 with a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material or incorporated into a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.

Polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants having the desired properties are marketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the brand name "Lubrajel". "Lubrajels" designated "Lubrajel DV", "Lubrajel MS" and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. The gelling agents sold under these brands contain 1% propylene glycol.

Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alkoxylated glucose derivatives such as Glucam ™ E-20, hexanetriol, and glucose ethers, and mixtures thereof, as a component.

The panthenol humectant is selected from D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3hydroxypropyl)] - 3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pumantothenate, rut, penthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl-ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyllactose and B-vitamin complex.

The preferred humectant herein is glycerin. Chemically, glycerin is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a commercial product.

A preferred component of the compositions herein is, in addition to the organic amphiphilic surfactant, a polyolester skin conditioning agent.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15%, and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight of the polyol ester. from 5% to 20%.

The polyol ester preferred herein is a non-occlusive liquid or a liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester. These polyol esters are derived from a polyol radical or group and one or more carboxylic acid radicals or groups. In other words, these esters comprise a group that is derived from a polyol and one or more groups that are derived from a carboxylic acid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be derived from carboxylic acid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be described as liquid fatty acid polyol esters, since the terms carboxylic acid and fatty acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art.

-21 • · · · · ·

Preferred liquid polyol esters used in the present invention include certain polyols, particularly sugars or sugar alcohols, esterified with at least four fatty acid groups. Therefore, the polyol starting material must have at least four esterifiable hydroxyl groups. Examples of preferred polyols are sugars, including monosaccharides and disaccharides and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides that contain four hydroxyl groups are xylose, arabinose, and xylose-derived alcohol sugar having five hydroxyl groups, i. xylitol. The erythrose monosaccharide is practically not suitable in the present invention because it contains only three hydroxyl groups, but an alcoholic sugar which is derived from erythrose, i. erythritol, contains four hydroxyl groups and is therefore useful. Suitable mono saccharides containing five hydroxyl groups are galactose, fructose and sorbose. Alcoholic sugars containing six -OH groups derived from the hydrolytic products of sucrose as well as glucose and sorbose, e.g. sorbitol, are also useful. Examples of disaccharide polyols that can be used include maltose, lactose and sucrose, all containing eight hydroxyl groups.

Preferred polyols for preparing polyesters for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Sucrose is particularly preferred.

The polyol starting material having at least four hydroxyl groups is esterified to at least four of these -OH groups by a fatty group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of such fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, myristoleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic, elejostearic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acids. Fatty acids are derived from naturally occurring or synthetic fatty acids; are saturated or unsaturated, including positional and geometric isomers. However, in order to provide liquid polyesters preferred for use herein, at least 50% by weight of the fatty acid incorporated into the polyester molecule must be unsaturated. Oleic and linoleic acids and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

The polyol fatty acid polyesters useful in the present invention must contain at least four fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary for all hydroxyl groups of the polyols to be esterified with a fatty acid, but it is preferred that the polyester contain no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, substantially all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyols are esterified with a fatty acid, i. the polyol group is

-ΊΊ • · 4

0 0 0 · · 0 0 0 0

0090090 0 0 00 09 ·

0 0 000 000

000 0 09 900 00 09 substantially completely esterified. The fatty acids esterified to the polyol molecule may be the same or different, but as noted above to ensure fluidity, a substantial amount of the ester groups of the unsaturated acid must be present.

To illustrate the above, the sucrose fatty triester will not be suitable for use herein as it does not contain the required four fatty acid ester groups. The sucrose fatty acid tetraester will be useful but is not preferred because it has more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Sucrose fatty acid hexaester will be preferred because it has no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include liquid sucrose octasubstituted fatty acid esters.

The following are non-limiting examples of specific polyol fatty acid polyesters containing at least four fatty acid ester groups suitable for use in the present invention: glucose tetraoleate, soybean oil fatty acid (unsaturated) glucose tetraesters, mixed soybean oil mannose tetraesters , oleic acid galactose tetraesters, linoleic arabinose tetraesters, xylose tetralinolate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated fatty acids from soybean oil, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose-tetraoleate, sucrose-pentaoleate, sucrose-pentaoleate, sucrose-pentaoleate, sucrose-pentaoleate, sucrose-pentaoleate, octaoleate and mixtures thereof.

As noted above, highly preferred polyol esters of fatty acids are those in which the fatty acid has 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferred liquid polyol polyesters preferred for use herein have full melting points below 30 ° C, preferably below 27.5 ° C, more preferably below 25 ° C. Full melting temperatures as recorded herein are measured by the Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) method.

Polyol polyesters of fatty acids suitable for use herein are prepared by a variety of methods known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesterifying the polyol with methyl, ethyl or glycerol esters of a fatty acid using a variety of catalysts; acylating the polyol with a fatty acid chloride; acylating the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and acylating the polyol with a fatty acid per se. See U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, Jan. 25, 1977.

The make-up compositions of the present invention also comprise a particulate cross-linked hydrophobic methacrylate copolymer. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing gloss and controlling oil when it helps to provide an effective wetting benefit. The crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly into and entrapped in the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the hydrophobic copolymer is in the form of a porous particle having a surface area (N ₂ -BET) ranging from 50 to 500, preferably 100 to 300 m ² / g and having an active ingredient absorbed therein.

The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer used herein is in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated into the outer, silicone-containing oil phase. The active ingredient is one or more or a mixture with skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, humectants and ultraviolet filters. The polymer material is in the form of a powder which is a combined particle system. The pulverulent particle system forms a grid which, as a component, comprises unit particles with an average diameter of less than one micron, agglomerates of fused unit particle sizes in the range of 20 to 100 microns of average diameter, and aggregates of fused agglomerates of average diameter in the range of 200 to 1200 microns.

The powder material of the present invention, which can be used as a carrier for the active ingredient, can be broadly described as a cross-linked "post-absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powder preferably has a closed and dispersed active ingredient therein which is in the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulate form and generates free-flowing discrete particles when filled with active material. The grid comprises a predetermined amount of active material. The polymer has the general structural formula:

c ~ o

and

R

AND

C = O ch ₂ -c where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R is -CH 2 CH 2 - and R is - (CH 2 Cl 2).

A suitable hydrophobic polymer for use herein is a highly crosslinked polymer, particularly a highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymer, such as manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Michigan, USA and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP ™. It is an ultra-light, free-flowing white powder and the particles have the ability to absorb high levels of lipophilic fluids and some hydrophilic fluids while retaining the nature of the free-flowing powder. The powder structure consists of a grid of unit particles smaller than one micrometer, which are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are loosely aggregated into macro particles or aggregates of size 200 to 100 microns.

1200 micrometers. The polymer powder is capable of containing four times its weight of liquids, emulsions, dispersions or molten solids.

The adsorption of the active ingredients to the polymer powder is carried out using a mixing bowl and a stainless steel spoon, the active ingredient is added to the powder in the bowl and the active ingredient is finely mixed into the polymer powder by a spoon. Low viscosity fluids are adsorbed by adding fluids to a sealable container in which the polymer is and then rolling the material until cohesive. More sophisticated mixing devices, such as a screw or double-cone mixer, can also be used. A preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerin. The weight ratio of humectant to carrier is preferably from 1: 4 to 3: 1.

Also suitable as a highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymer is Microsponges 5640. It is in the form of generally spherical particles of crosslinked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from 0.01 to 0.05 μηι and a surface area of 200-300 m ² / g. Again, it is preferred that it is filled with a humectant at the above mentioned levels.

The compositions of the invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level preferably from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.02% to 2%, and in particular from 0.02% to 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of at least 4000 mPa · s, more preferably of at least 10,000 mPa · s and in particular of at least 50,000 mPa · s.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are generally described as water-soluble or colloidal-water-soluble polymers and include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternary-10-guar gum, hydroxypropyl-guar gum, and xanthan gum.

· · R ic t 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 - - 25 25 25 25 25 - 25 - 25 - 25 ···················

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents include acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company under the brand Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble cross-linked polymer of a polyalkenyl polyether acrylic acid, cross-linked with 0.75% to 2.00% of a cross-linking agent, for example polyallylsaccharose or polyallylpentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980,

Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with 1% sucrose polyallyl ether having an average of 5.8 allyl groups per sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymers having amphipathic properties, sold under the trademarks Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and PromulenTR-1 (CTFA designation:

Acrylates / 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of a polyalkenyl-polyether crosslinked acrylic acid polymer and a hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable herein. Other suitable gelling agents herein are oleogels, for example trihydroxystearin and aluminum magnesium hydroxyroxearate. The gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellent stability properties at both normal and elevated temperatures.

Hydrophilic gelling agents that contain an acidic group are preferably neutralized. Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing hydrophilic gelling agents that contain acidic groups herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine.

The make-up compositions herein additionally comprise a emollient emollient. Emollients suitable for the compositions of this invention include natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

Suitable plasticizers for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted C ₈ -C 50 unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, C 8 -C 30 saturated fatty acid esters of C 8 -C 30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecyl myristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalene, fatty sorbitan

-26 ·· ·

9 9999 •

9

9 9

9

99 · 9

9

9

9 9 9 9 ·

9

999 9 · 99 esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, Oct. 26, 1976), lanolin, and lanolin derivatives such as lanolininalcohol ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolin, cholesterol and its derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil , peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, apricot seed oil, walnut, palm, pistachio, sesame seeds, rapeseed, juniper oil, corn oil, peach seed oil, poppy oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grains grape and sunflower seed oil and C ₂ 4 esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl, diisostearyl malate, diisostearyl dimerate and triisostearyl trimerate.

Preferred emollients are selected from hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, mineral oils, petrolatum and squalene, lanolinic alcohol and stearyl alcohol. These emollients can be used alone or in mixtures and are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from 1% to 30% by weight and are preferably present in an amount of from 5% to 15% by weight of the total composition.

The composition also includes, as appropriate, other additional materials, for example, fragrances, ultraviolet filters, preservatives, electrolytes, for example sodium chloride, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents, and water-in-oil emulsion emulsifiers.

Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or more ultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, often described as sunlight filtering agents, are present at a concentration of between 1% and 12% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the ultraviolet absorbers represent from 2% to 8% by weight. More preferably, the ultraviolet absorbing agents are present in the composition in a concentration range between 4% and 6% by weight. Among the ultraviolet absorbing agents suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyl-dimethyl-PAB A (Padimate O), Parsol MCX, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

Another optional but preferred component herein is one or more chelating agents, preferably in the range of 0.02% to 0.10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the chelating agent is present at a concentration ranging between 0.03% and 0.07% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Among the chelating agents that can be incorporated into the composition is tetranatrium EDTA.

• ·

-π -

Another optional but preferred component of the support composition is one or more preservatives. The preservative in the support composition, based on the total weight of the composition, is between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 0.3% by weight. Suitable preservatives for use herein include sodium benzoate and propylparaben and mixtures thereof.

Another optional but preferred component is DryFlow, available from Dow Corning Ltd, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RG1 7DZ, UK.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are in the form of a foundation, blusher, concealer, compact powders, moisturizing creams and lotions, tinted moisturizing creams and lotions, etc., preferably as substrate and cover means.

• ·

Examples of embodiments of the invention

The table below shows examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (% weight) % > i) (% w / w) >.) (% wt </> .) (wt% 5i .) (% hmo £ 4 (% hmo £ ) (% mpg phase A cyclomethicone (DC 2-1330) 0.0 0.0 7.59 16.75 5.25 11.99 0.0 0.0 cyclomethicone DC245 9.85 8.65 o, o o, o 0.0 o, o 10,04 10,04 cyclomethicone / dimethicone 0.0 0.0 17.20 10.00 18.50 10.00 0.0 0.0 Copolyol (90: 10) (DC3225C) cyclomethicone / dimethicone 10.00 15.00 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 15.00 15.00 Copolyol (90: 10) (BY22-008) SEFA Cottonate ² 0.00 0.00 2.00 0.00 2.00 4.00 0.00 0.00 phase B Microsponge 5640 ² 0.5 0.75 0.75 0.00 0.50 0.75 0.75 0.75 mica 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.00 0.00 titanium dioxide (Cardre 704 29 ³ ) 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25 zinc oxide and dimethicone 0.00 0.00 4.00 4.00 0.00 4.00 0.00 0.00 phase C DryFlow ⁴ 2.5 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.5 2.5 phase D yellow iron oxide 2.10 2.10 2.00 2.10 2.10 2.10 1.60 1.60 red iron oxide 0.90 0.90 0.24 0.90 0.60 0.90 0.47 0.47 black iron oxide 0.60 0.60 0.12 0.60 0.30 0.60 0.09 0.09 cyclomethicone (DC 2-1330) o, o 0.0 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.0 0.0 cyclomethicone DC245 1.00 1.00 o, o o, o 0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00 phase E Durachem ⁵ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Waxenol ⁶ 0.00 0.00 0.30 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 phase F cyclomethicone (DC 2-1330) 0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.0 0.0 cyclomethicone DC245 1.00 1.00 o, o 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.00 1.00 Thixin R ⁷ 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 propylparaben 0.00 0.00 0.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

• · ·

• · • ·

phase G ethylenebrassylate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.00 0.00 0.00 phase H salicylic acid 1.00 0.5 1.75 1.95 1.50 1.50 1.00 1.50 hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin ¹⁰ 8.00 4.00 8.00 8.00 12.00 8.00 4.00 8.00 Procetyl AWS ¹¹ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 3.00 3.00 glycerine 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 water 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.00 0.00 phase I water ------------------------------- to 100 ----------------- --------------- Na4EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 sodium citrate 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 sodium chloride 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 citric acid 0.5 1.00 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.00 0.50 0.50 polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol K17) ⁸ 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 methylparaben 0.00 0.00 0.20 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 phase J zinc oxide 0.00 0.00 0.42 0.42 0.00 0.28 0.00 0.00 Arginine ¹² 0.00 0.00 0.325 0.65 0.65 0.65 0.00 0.00 total: 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN!

1. Provided by Procter & Gamble

2. Delivered by Dow Corning Ltd, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RGl 7DZ, Vel. Briton.

3. Supplied by Cardre Incorporated, 70 Tyler Pl., South Plainfield, NJ07090, USA

4. Delivered by Dow Corning Ltd, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RGl 7DZ, Vel. Briton.

5. Delivered by Astor-Stag Ltd., Tavistok Road, Wets Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7RA, Vel. Briton.

6. Supplied by Caschem Inc., 40 Avenue A, Bayonne, NJ07002, USA

7. Trihydroxystearin, supplied by Rheox Ltd, Barons Court, Manchester Road, Wilmslow, SK9 1BQ, Vel. Briton.

8. Supplied by BASF, Earl Road, Cheadle Hulme, Cheadle, Cheshire, SK8 6QB

9. Delivered by Union Carbide, 39 Old Ridgebury Road, Danbury

10. Delivered by Cerestar USA Inc., 1100 Indianopolis Boulevard, Hammond, Indiana, USA46320

11. Delivered by Croda Chemicals Ltd., Cowick Hall, Snaith, Goole, North Humberside, DN14 9AA

12. Delivered by Degussa Ltd, Winterton House, Winterton Way, Macclesfield, Cheshire SKI 1 0LP • ·

The compositions of Examples I-VI were prepared as follows. The various components listed in the Table are divided into groups, the components of each group being mixed before being added to the members of the remaining groups in accordance with the procedures set forth below.

In the first step, the mixture of phase A ingredients is mixed by shear mixing for 15 minutes until homogeneity. In high speed shear mixing, phase B materials are gradually added and the batch mixed for 30 minutes. Phase C was added and the resulting mixture was triturated for 15 minutes.

Phase D ingredients are then added and the resulting mixture is spread to fully disperse.

The wax phase E is then added to the batch and the batch is heated to 85 ° C with stirring until the wax melts and then cooled to 50 ° C with stirring. The premixed phase F is then added to the batch and homogenized for 10 minutes. The batch was cooled to room temperature with stirring. Phase G is added to the batch and homogenized for 10 minutes.

The aqueous phase is prepared as follows. The Phase I ingredients are mixed until dissolved. The H phase components are mixed together by high speed shear until dissolution. Mix the solution until it is clear. Phase I is added to Phase H and mixed, followed by stirring by the addition of Phase J.

The aqueous phase is finally added slowly to the oil phase, homogenizing at low speed with stirring. After all the aqueous phase has been added, the batch is subjected to high shear for 5 minutes to increase the viscosity of the final product.

The resulting make-up composition is ready for packaging.

The cosmetic compositions of the Examples exhibit improved anti-acne / anti-inflammatory activity and reduced skin irritation.

Claims (9)

PATENT CLAIMS rfW ' Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin, comprising a cyclodextrin compound and a salicylic acid or a salicylic acid derivative, wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion having a continuous silicone containing phase and a discontinuous aqueous phase. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cyclodextrin compound is selected from alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamacy-cyclodextrin, hydroxylalkyl-beta-cyclodextrin and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the cyclodextrin compound is hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises salicylic acid. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of salicylic acid or a salicylic acid derivative. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.8% to 15% by weight of the cyclodextrin compound. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative is dissolved in the aqueous phase. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it additionally contains from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.1% to 25%, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight of pigment. • · Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the silicone oil phase comprises from 0.01% to 25% by weight of the silicone oil phase of the non-volatile silicones and from 75% to 99.99% by weight of the silicone oil phase of the volatile silicones.