CN1704044B - Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising oil, polymeric gelling agent and polyurethane powder - Google Patents

Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising oil, polymeric gelling agent and polyurethane powder Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1704044B
CN1704044B CN2005100783271A CN200510078327A CN1704044B CN 1704044 B CN1704044 B CN 1704044B CN 2005100783271 A CN2005100783271 A CN 2005100783271A CN 200510078327 A CN200510078327 A CN 200510078327A CN 1704044 B CN1704044 B CN 1704044B
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compositions
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oil
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CN1704044A (en
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A·特芒斯
M·勒里丹
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

An anhydrous composition for making up and/or caring for the skin comprising an oily phase, at least one amorphous gelling polymer formed by polymerization of at least one olefin and at least one polyurethane powder. This composition exhibits a smooth and melting cream texture, spreads easily over the skin and may make it possible to obtain a homogeneous make-up which has a powdery finish and which confers a pleasant softness on the skin; the composition also exhibits good hold properties.

Description

The anhydrous cosmetic compositions that contains oil, polymer gel agent and polyurethane powder
Technical field
Theme of the present invention is the anhydrous cosmetic compositions that a kind of skin is made up or nursed.The skin that it is the people that the present invention also has a theme is made up or care method, comprising be coated with this compositions on skin.
Background technology
This cutization composition for cosmetics can be facial cream, eye shadow, rouge, anti-black eye product, body woman's persona product.More particularly, the present invention relates to a kind of facial cream compositions.
This care composition especially can be a kind of cosmetic base material, the skin smoothing product that a kind of skin is used.
Preferably a kind of dermato-cosmetic composition of this compositions.
These facial cream compositionss are commonly used to make skin that beautiful color is arranged, and especially make face that beautiful color is arranged, but also are used for covering up the defective of skin, for example erythema, freckle.
These compositionss have from fluid to solid quality, and they contain oil and coloured powdery material usually.One of them difficult point that user runs into is facial cream will be spread over whole face very equably, so that distribute this product equably.Stiff or solid quality compositions are difficult to sprawl because of its high viscosity.The compositions of fluid quality is not always adapted to and realizes making up uniformly, does not stay visible cosmetic labelling on skin, and is main because it sprawls bad on the whole face that will make up.In addition, the existence of coloured powdery material is returned to make up and is brought desiccation, produces the sensation of feeling nervous, so the back of making up is all uncomfortable all day.
Consumer is always being sought at the product that innovation is arranged aspect the quality effect.Particularly to seek and to make up or care product has the product of differing texture before and after being coated onto on the skin.
Summary of the invention
Therefore, the objective of the invention is to propose a kind of cosmetic or care composition, this compositions has the outward appearance of oiliness face cream, and just becomes smooth (fini) of the sample of powdering after being coated onto on the skin.Another object of the present invention is to propose a kind of compositions that tender sensation is arranged when being coated onto it on skin.Another object of the present invention is to propose a kind of compositions with good maintenance performance, particularly sebum or sweat is had the compositions of good maintenance performance, especially still has the compositions of good maintenance performance after this compositions of coating in 12 hours.
The inventor has found a kind of like this compositions, and it is to use oil, special polymer gel agent and polyurethane powder to obtain.
Definitely, theme of the present invention is that a kind of skin is made up or the anhydrous composition of nursing, amorphous gel polymer and polyurethane powder that said composition contains oil phase, generates by olefinic polyreaction.
Another theme of the present invention is that a kind of skin of non-therapeutic is made up or the care cosmetic method, and this method is included in and is coated with on the skin as previously defined compositions.
Compositions of the present invention has the oiliness face cream quality that can melt when being coated on the skin.This compositions is easily sprawled on skin, can also make skin reach uniform cosmetic, and not stay visible vestige.In addition, be coated on the skin after, cosmetic that reaches or deposit have the smooth of the slick sample of powdering, and comfortable, do not have effect dry, that feel nervous; The skin of making up or handling has pleasant tender.In addition, the cosmetic of finishing has good maintenance performance, particularly sebum or sweat is had good maintenance performance: after 12 hours, this cosmetics are always stayed on the skin, and are uniform in this compositions of coating.
Therefore, it is as the application of previously defined compositions in the preparation cosmetics that the present invention also has a theme, these cosmetics have good maintenance performance, after 12 hours, also have good maintenance performance especially, and/or reach the tender and/or effect comfortable and/or that have the outward appearance of powdering and/or evenly make up of making up of cosmetic skin.
Anhydrous composition is to be understood that it is a kind of compositions, wherein contains 2% following water by weight, even 0.5% following water, does not particularly have water, and this water does not add when the preparation said composition, but corresponding to the residual water of bringing into by these blending ingredients.
Polymer gel agent in the present composition is the amorphous polymer that generates by olefinic polyreaction.This alkene can be to have the undersaturated elastomer monomer of ethylene linkage particularly.
As the alkene example, can enumerate these olefinic monomers, have one or two ethylene linkage degree of unsaturation especially, have the monomer of 2-5 carbon atom, for example ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene.
This polymer gel agent can make the organic facies thickening or the gelling of compositions.About amorphous polymer, be to be understood that be a kind of be not the polymer of crystal habit.This polymer gel agent also is a film former, and promptly it can form thin film when being coated onto it on skin.
This polymer gel agent can be radial, two blocks of star, three blocks, segmented copolymer especially, or their mixture.
More such polymer gel agent have been described among patent application US-A-2002/005562 and the patent US-A-5 221 534.
Advantageously, this polymer gel agent amorphous blocks copolymer that is a kind of styrene and alkene.
This polymer gel agent is preferably hydrogenant, so that reduce the residual ethylene linkage degree of unsaturation behind the monomer polymerization.
Especially, this polymer gel agent is a kind of have styrene block and ethylene/C 3-C 4The optionally hydrogenated copolymer of alkylidene block.
As diblock copolymer, preferably the hydrogenation diblock copolymer can be enumerated styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymer, styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymer.Particularly Kraton Polymers company is with trade name
Figure G2005100783271D00031
The diblock polymer that G1701E sells.
As triblock copolymer, preferably the hydrogenation triblock copolymer can be enumerated styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymer, styrene-ethylene/BS, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymer-, s-B-S copolymer.Particularly Kraton Polymers company is with trade name
Figure G2005100783271D00032
G1650,
Figure G2005100783271D00033
G1652,
Figure G2005100783271D00034
D1101,
Figure G2005100783271D00035
D1102, The triblock polymer that D1160 sells.
Can also use the mixture of a kind of styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene three block hydrogenated copolymers and ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenation star polymer, a kind of like this mixture is in particular in Fancol ID.For example PENRECO company is with trade name
Figure G2005100783271D00037
M5960 and The mixture that M5670 sells.
Advantageously use diblock copolymer as the polymer gel agent, for example previously described diblock copolymer, especially styrene-ethylene/propylene diblock copolymer.
The content of this polymer gel agent is in said composition gross weight 0.1-10 weight %, preferably 0.5-5 weight %, more preferably 1-3 weight %.
Compositions of the present invention contains polyurethane powder.Especially, this polyurethane powder is not a film former, can not form continuous films when promptly it for example is coated on skin and so on holder.
Advantageously, this polyurethane powder is the copolymer powder of a kind of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trihydroxy methyl caprolactone.Specifically be that polyurethane powder is sold with trade name PLASTIC POWDER D-400, PLASTIC POWDER D-800 by TOSHIKI company.
As other polyurethane powder, the polyurethane powder that can use TOSHIKI company to sell with trade name PLASTICPOWDER CS-400.
The content of this polyurethane powder is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %, preferably 1-15 weight %, more preferably 5-15 weight %.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, said composition can contain the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule.Especially, these microgranules are not film former, can not form continuous films when promptly it for example is coated on skin and so on holder.
These polymethyl methacrylate powder hollow or solid sphere that generally is white in color is microgranular, and its number average size generally is micron-sized, particularly 3-15 micron, 3-10 micron usually." number average size " is illustrated in the overall given size of statistics particle size distribution one half, promptly so-called D50.
Also may characterize them with the density of these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules, its density mainly changes with the spherically-shaped cavity size of described microgranule.
Within the scope of the invention, estimate this density, so-called compacted density according to following proposal:
The m=40g powder is poured in the graduated cylinder; Then graduated cylinder is put on STAV 2003 instruments of STAMPF VOLUMETER manufacturing; This graduated cylinder is subjected to 1500 compactings then.Use ratio m/Vf, (Vf is with cm for 40/Vf in this case 3Expression, m represents with g) determine this compacted density.
Especially, the density of the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule that the present invention uses can be 0.3-1.5, especially 0.5-1.5, more particularly 1-1.5.
As being suitable for the nonrestrictive polymethyl methacrylate representative of the present invention, can enumerate the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule that MATSUMOTO YUSHI CO company sells with trade name " JURYMER MB1 " with the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule and the NIHON JUNYAKU company of trade name " Covabead LH85 " sale with trade name " Micropearl M100 ", LCW company especially.
The content of these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %, preferably 0.5-25 weight %, more preferably 1-20 weight %, most preferably 5-15 weight %.
This polymethyl methacrylate powder especially can access the product of a kind of cosmetic or skin smoothing nursing.
The oil phase of the present composition contains at least a oil that can be selected from ethereal oil, nonvolatile oil and composition thereof.Advantageously, said composition contains at least a ethereal oil and at least a nonvolatile oil.
Compositions of the present invention can contain at least a ethereal oil.
" ethereal oil " is being to be understood that it is any under room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the oil that all can evaporate with contact skin the time on the meaning of the present invention.Ethereal oil of the present invention is volatile greasepaint, and this oil at room temperature is liquid, and the vapour pressure under room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-vanishing, in particular for 0.13-40000Pa (0.001-300mmHg), and 1.3-1300Pa (0.01-10mmHg) preferably.
This ethereal oil can be selected from hydro carbons ethereal oil, type siloxane ethereal oil, fluorine-containing ethereal oil and composition thereof.
" hydro carbons ethereal oil " is to be understood that it is mainly to contain hydrogen atom and carbon atom, randomly also contains the oil of aerobic, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
These volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from the hydrocarbon-type oil of 8-16 carbon atom, particularly C 8-C 16Branched alkane, for example C of petroleum source 8-C 16Different alkane (also being referred to as isoparaffin) is as Fancol ID (being also referred to as 2,2,4,4, the 6-five methylheptane), isodecane, different cetane, for example with trade name
Figure G2005100783271D00051
Or The oil of selling.
As ethereal oil, can also use volatile siloxane, for example as volatile straight chain or annular siloxane oil, particularly viscosity≤5 centistokes (5 * 10 -6m 2/ s) silicone oil particularly has 2-10 silicon atom, the silicone oil of preferred 2-7 silicon atom, and these siloxanes randomly contain the alkyl or the alkoxyl of 1-10 carbon atom.As spendable volatile silicone oil in the present invention, especially can enumerate octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes, seven methyl hexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, ten dimethyl, five siloxanes and their mixture.
Fluorine-containing ethereal oil does not generally have flash-point.
As fluorine-containing ethereal oil, can enumerate nine fluorine ethoxy butanes, Nonafluoromethoxybutcompositions, Decafluoropentane, Tetradecafluorohexane, R-4112 and their mixture.
Advantageously, this compositions contains the mixture of at least a hydro carbons volatile oil, particularly Fancol ID and different cetane.
In the present composition this ethereal oil can be arranged, its content is in said composition gross weight 5-60 weight %, preferably 10-55 weight %, more preferably 30-50 weight %, most preferably 20-50 weight %.
Compositions of the present invention can contain at least a nonvolatile oil.
" nonvolatile oil " is to be understood that it is under room temperature and atmospheric pressure, stops the oil of a few hours at least on skin, and vapour pressure is less than the oil of 0.13Pa (0.01mmHg) especially.
These nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon-type oils, especially the hydrocarbon-type oil in animal or plant source, type siloxane oil or their mixture." hydrocarbon-type oil " is to be understood that it is mainly to contain hydrogen atom and carbon atom, randomly also contains the oil of aerobic, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
These nonvolatile oils can be selected from hydrocarbon-type oil especially, if necessary contain fluorocarbon oil and/or the nonvolatile silicone oil that contains.
As nonvolatile hydrocarbon-type oil, especially can enumerate:
-zoogenous hydrocarbon-type oil,
The hydrocarbon-type oil of-plant source, triglyceride that constitute by the ester of fatty acid and glycerol for example, wherein fatty acid can have C 4-C 24Different chain lengths, these fatty acids can be straight or brancheds, and be saturated or unsaturated; These oil are enanthic acid or sad triglyceride particularly, or the oil of Fructus Hordei Germinatus, Helianthi, seed of Fructus Vitis viniferae, Semen Sesami, corn, Fructus Pruni, Semen Ricini, Butyrospermum, American Avocado Tree, Fructus oleae europaeae, Semen sojae atricolor, Semen pruni armeniacae, Petiolus Trachycarpi, Brassica campestris L, Semen Gossypii, Semen coryli heterophyllae, macadimia nut, jojoba, Herba Medicaginis, Semen Papaveris, potimarron, Semen Sesami, Cucurbita maxima, Brassica campestris L, postfermented tea bit of a bridle, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae, broomcorn millet, Fructus Hordei Vulgaris, quinoa, rye (Secale cereale L.), Flos Carthami, candlenut tree, Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae, muskrat, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin; Or the caprylic/capric triglyceride, as these triglyceride of St é arineries Dubois company sale, or Dynamit Nobel company is with trade name Miglyol With
Figure G2005100783271D00062
These triglyceride of selling.
-have the synthetic ether of 10-40 carbon atom.
The straight or branched hydrocarbon of-mineral or synthetic source, for example vaseline, poly decene, Parleam, as Squalane, paraffin oil and composition thereof.
-synthetic ester, for example formula R 1COOR 2Oil, R in the formula 1Representative contains the straight or branched fatty acid residue of 1-40 carbon atom, R 2Representative contains the branching hydrocarbon chain of 1-40 carbon atom especially, and its condition is R 1+ R 2〉=10, for example as Purcellin oil (sad cetearyl alcohol ester), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid C 12-C 15Alcohol ester, lauric acid hexyl ester, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, the different stearyl ester of isostearic acid, lauric acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, myristic acid 2-octyl group dodecane ester, the heptanoate of alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, caprylate, decanoin or ricinoleate are as two sad propylene diesters; Hydroxylating ester, for example different stearyl ester of lactic acid, maleic acid two different stearyl esters, lactic acid 2-octyl group dodecane ester; Polyol ester and pentaerythritol ester.
-at room temperature be the branching that 12-26 carbon atom arranged of liquid and/or unsaturated carbon chain fatty alcohol, for example octyl dodecanol, isooctadecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl capryl alcohol and 2-undecyl pentadecanol.
-senior fatty acid, for example oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and composition thereof.
The non-volatile silicone oil of using in the present composition can be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), have 2-24 carbon atom contain side chain and/or at the alkyl of the siloxanes end of the chain or the polydimethylsiloxane of alkoxyl, the siloxanes that contains phenyl is as phenyl three polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl two polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimerization dimethylsilyl bis diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl two polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and composition thereof.
Advantageously, nonvolatile oil can be selected from C 12-C 36Ester, for example previously described those esters.
In the present composition, can contain this nonvolatile oil, its content is in said composition gross weight 0.5-60 weight %, preferably 1-50 weight %, more preferably 5-40 weight %, most preferably 5-30 weight %, more particularly preferably 10-20 weight %.
Preferably, when compositions of the present invention contains the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule, regulate the content of nonvolatile oil and polymethyl methacrylate microgranule, make the content of nonvolatile oil be higher than the content of polymethyl methacrylate microgranule.Especially, its content should make the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil be greater than or equal to 1, in particular 1-35, preferably 1-25, more preferably 1-15; Preferably, the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil is greater than or equal to 1.5, in particular 1.5-35, preferably 1.5-25, more preferably 1.5-15.
Compositions of the present invention can contain at least a coloured material, and it is selected from pigment, Concha Margaritifera, oil-soluble colorant and composition thereof especially.
About pigment, it should be appreciated that it is to be used to any form microgranule of making compositions painted, and these microgranules are white or chromatic, inorganic or organic, and are insoluble in Physiological Medium.
About Concha Margaritifera, it should be appreciated that it is the microgranule with any iris form, particularly the microgranule with any iris form by producing in some mollusk shell or adopt synthetic method to produce.
About " coloring agent ", it should be appreciated that it is general organic compound, and it is dissolved in the fatty material (for example oil).
These pigment can be white or chromatic, inorganic and/or organic.In inorganic pigment, can enumerate titanium dioxide, the titanium dioxide handled of its surface randomly, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, ferrum oxide (black, yellow or redness) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine indigo plant, chromium hydrate and barba hispanica, metal dust, as aluminium powder, copper powder.
In organic pigment, can enumerate carbon black, D﹠amp; C class pigment, based on alkermes, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum color lake.
Pearlescent pigment can be selected from white pearlescent pigment, the Muscovitum that covers with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride for example, color pearly pigment, the odenite that covers with ferrum oxide for example, the special odenite that covers with barba hispanica or chromium oxide, the odenite that covers with the organic pigment of above-mentioned class, and bismuth oxychloride based pearlescent pigments.
Oil-soluble colorant for example is red, the D﹠amp of Soudan; C Red n ° 17, D﹠amp; C Green n ° 6, solatene, soybean oil, brown, the D﹠amp of Soudan; C Yellow n ° 11, D﹠amp; C Violent n ° 2, D﹠amp; C orangen ° 5, D C Yellow No. 10, roucou, bromo-acid.
The content of these coloured materials is in said composition gross weight 0.1-20 weight %, preferably 0.5-15 weight %, more preferably 1-15 weight %, most preferably 5-15 weight %.
Compositions of the present invention can also contain at least a additional additives, and described additive is different with the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule with previously described polyurethane powder.
About filler, it should be appreciated that it is any form microgranule, and these microgranules are colourless or white, and are mineral or synthetic, no matter how the temperature of this compositions of preparation is insoluble in the said composition medium.
These additional filler can be the inorganic or Organic substances of any form, and sheet, ball or strip regardless of crystal habit (for example flaky, cubical, hexagonal, positive rhombus etc.).Can enumerate Talcum, Muscovitum, silicon dioxide, Kaolin, polyamide powder
Figure G2005100783271D00081
Poly--the Beta-alanine powder, polyethylene powders, polytetrafluorethylepowder powder
Figure G2005100783271D00082
Lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymer hollow microsphere, Vingon/acrylonitrile tiny balloon for example, as (Nobel Industrie), acrylic copolymer, silicone resin powder, particularly silsesquioxane powder (the silicone resin powder of in patent EP 293795, describing particularly; Toshiba for example
Figure G2005100783271D00084
), polysiloxane body microgranule, winnofil, magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silicon dioxide microsphere, glass or ceramic microcapsule, by having 8-22 carbon atom, the deutero-metallic soap of the organic carboxyl acid of 12-18 carbon atom preferably, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt, magnesium myristate, and their mixture.
In this compositions these additional filler can be arranged, its content is in said composition gross weight 0.1-35 weight %, preferably 0.5-30 weight %, more preferably 1-25 weight %.
Advantageously, these additional filler are selected from silsesquioxane powder, Talcum, polyamide powder And their mixture.
Said composition can also contain the silsesquioxane powder, and its content is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %, preferably 1-15 weight %, more preferably 1-10 weight %.
Said composition can also contain Talcum, and its content is in said composition gross weight 0.1-30 weight %, preferably 1-15 weight %, more preferably 1-10 weight %.
Said composition can also contain polyamide powder, and its content is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %, preferably 1-15 weight %, more preferably 1-10 weight %.
Advantageously, compositions of the present invention can contain pulverulent material, and its total content is in said composition gross weight 20-50 weight %, preferably 25-45 weight %, more preferably 30-40 weight %.
This compositions also contains the inorganic thickening agent of at least a oily medium, for example organophilic clay, pyrolytic silicon dioxide.
Organophilic clay is the clay with the chemical compound modification, and its clay is become can swollen clay in oily medium.
Clay is the product of itself having known, for example at works " clay mineralogy " S.Caillere, and S.H é nin, M.Rautureau, the 2nd edition, nineteen eighty-two, the clay of describing among the Masson, this paper is referenced by reference this works.
Clay is to contain the cationic silicate that is selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cation and mixed-cation thereof.
As the example of such product, can enumerate the clay of smectite family, for example Montmorillonitum, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite, saponite, and the clay of Vermiculitum, stevensite, chlorite family.
These clays can be natural or synthetic sources.The preferred use on making up and the compatible acceptable clay of keratin substances (for example skin).
Organophilic clay can be selected from Montmorillonitum, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, meerschaum, and their mixture.Clay is bentonite or hectorite preferably.
Clay can carry out modification with chemical compound, and described chemical compound is selected from quaternary ammonium, tertiary amine, amination acetate, imidazoline, amination soap, fatty sulfuric ester, alkyl aryl sulfonate, amine oxide, and their mixture.
As organophilic clay, can enumerate the quaterium-18 bentonite, for example Rh é ox company with trade name Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V product sold, United catalyst company with trade name Tixogel VP product sold, Southern Clay company with trade name Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL product sold; Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium bentonite, for example Rh é ox company with trade name Bentone 27 product solds, United catalyst company with trade name Tixogel LG product sold, Southern Clay company with trade name Claytone AF, Claytone APA product sold; Quaterium-18/ alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium bentonite, for example Southern Clay company is with trade name Claytone HT, Claytone PS product sold.
Pyrolysis devolatilization silicon compound at high temperature in oxyhydrogen flame produces particulate silicon dioxide, can obtain pyrolytic silicon dioxide like this.This method especially can access hydrophilic silicon dioxide, and these silicon dioxide have a large amount of silanol groups on its surface.For example Degussa company is with trade name AEROSIL
Figure G2005100783271D00091
AEROSIL
Figure G2005100783271D00092
AEROSIL AEROSIL
Figure G2005100783271D00094
AEROSIL The hydrophilic silicon dioxide of selling; Cabot company is with trade name CAB-O-SIL
Figure G2005100783271D00096
CAB-O-SIL CAB-O-SIL CAB-O-SIL CAB-O-SIL The hydrophilic silicon dioxide of selling.
Might carry out chemical modification to described silica surface by the chemical reaction that silanol groups quantity is reduced.Particularly can replace silanol groups: at this moment obtain hydrophobic silicon dioxide with hydrophobic group.
These hydrophobic group can be:
Trimethylsiloxy group, these groups are specifically in the presence of hexamethyldisiloxane, and pyrolytic silicon dioxide obtains by handling.So the silicon dioxide of handling is according to CTFA (the 6th edition, nineteen ninety-five) called after " silicon dioxide monosilane hydrochlorate ".They for example are that Degussa company is with trade name AEROSIL Cabot company is with trade name CAB-O-SIL Product sold.
-dimethyl methyl siloxy group or polydimethylsiloxane, they are specifically in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane, and pyrolytic silicon dioxide obtains by handling.So the silicon dioxide of handling is according to CTFA (the 6th edition, nineteen ninety-five) called after " silicon dioxide dimethyl silane hydrochlorate ".They for example are that Degussa company is with trade name AEROSIL
Figure G2005100783271D00103
AEROSIL Cabot company is with trade name CAB-O-SIL CAB-O-SIL Product sold.
This ripe gravel size decision ground of separating silicon dioxide microparticle is that nanometer is to micron, for example about 5-200nm.
The inorganic thickening agent that oily medium can be arranged in the said composition, its content are in said composition gross weight 0.5-5 weight %, preferably 1-4 weight %, more preferably 2-4 weight %.
This compositions can contain other common cosmetic components, and these components are selected from antioxidant, spice, antiseptic, nertralizer, surfactant, wax, sunscreen, vitamin, water absorbing agent particularly, from brown skin chemical compound, anti-creasing agent.
Certainly, those skilled in the art should be noted that this or additional chemical compound that these are possible and/or their amount, do not replenish chemical compound and/or their amount changes so that the advantageous property of the present composition can or can not be required to add substantially.
Advantageously, this compositions is the fluidic gel form of non-deformable: this compositions can not take place to flow in 5 minutes under the own wt effect at 25 ℃, and when pinching its compositions with finger, can make compositions distortion (opposite with solid composite, they do not contact and can be out of shape with finger simply) by simply exerting pressure.
According to a special embodiment of the present invention, said composition does not contain the polymer particles that is dispersed in the said composition oil phase and is aggregated thing stabilizing agent stabilisation from the teeth outwards.In application EP-A-749747, more such stable polymer dispersions have been described particularly." do not contain " and mean that said composition contains in the dispersion below its composition total weight 3 weight % and is aggregated the polymer particles of thing stabilizing agent stabilisation on the surface, does not even contain some microgranules like this.Especially, when these dispersions were diluted to 50 volume % with their disperse medium, these stable dispersions had the characteristic that still is the dispersion form.
The specific embodiment
Illustrate in greater detail the present invention by the embodiment that describes below.
Embodiment 1
Preparation has the facial cream of following composition:
Isononyl isononanoate 15.7g
Fancol ID 11.75g
Different cetane 14.1g
List-isostearic acid sorbitan ester 1.5g
Styrene/ethylene-propylene copolymer that Kraton Polymers company sells with trade name KRATON G 1701E 2.5g
The Quarternium-18 hectorite gel that ELEMENTIS company sells with trade name " Bentone gel SS 71V " 17.65g
The polyurethane powder that TOSHIKI company sells with trade name " PLASTIC POWDER D-400 " 8g
The polymethyl methacrylate powder 9g
The poly-methyl silsesquioxane powder that GE TOSHIBA SILICONES company sells with trade name " TOSPEARL 145-A " 1.25g
Pulvis Talci 5.5g
The pyrolytic silicon dioxide that DEGUSSA company sells with trade name " AEROSIL200 " 1.8g
Nylon powder 2.75g
Pigment 8g
Antiseptic 0.5g
This facial cream has the oiliness face cream quality that can melt on being coated onto skin the time: it is easily sprawled on skin, and the noise of dry grinding takes place, and can also make skin reach uniform cosmetic, and its outward appearance is opaque, has the smooth of the sample of powdering, and skin is very tender.After coating 12 hours, this cosmetic has good maintenance performance to sebum and sweat.

Claims (86)

1. a skin is made up or the anhydrous composition of nursing, the amorphous gel polymer that said composition contains oil phase, generate by olefinic polyreaction and at least a be not the polyurethane powder of film former.
2. compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that the amorphous blocks copolymer that this polymer gel agent is styrene and alkene.
3. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is that olefinic monomer generates by polyreaction.
4. compositions according to claim 3 is characterized in that these olefinic monomers have one or two ethylene linkage degree of unsaturation, have 2-5 carbon atom.
5. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is to be selected from the alkene of ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene to generate by polyreaction.
6 compositionss according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is selected from two blocks, three blocks, segmented copolymer or its mixture radial, star.
7. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is selected from three blocks, segmented copolymer or its mixture radial, star.
8. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is to have styrene block and ethylene/C 3-C 4The optionally hydrogenated copolymer of alkylidene block.
9. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is a diblock copolymer, and it is selected from styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymer, styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymer.
10. compositions according to claim 9 is characterized in that described diblock copolymer is the hydrogenation diblock copolymer.
11. compositions according to claim 9 is characterized in that described diblock copolymer is selected from styrene-ethylene/propylene diblock copolymer.
12. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is a triblock copolymer, it is selected from styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymer, styrene-ethylene/BS, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymer-, s-B-S copolymer.
13. compositions according to claim 12 is characterized in that described triblock copolymer is the hydrogenation triblock copolymer.
14. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is the mixture of styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene three block hydrogenated copolymers and styrene-propene-styrene hydrogenation star polymer.
15. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, the content that it is characterized in that this polymer gel agent are in said composition gross weight 0.1-10 weight %.
16. according to the compositions that claim 15 is stated, the content that it is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is in said composition gross weight 0.5-5 weight %.
17. according to the compositions of claim 16, the content that it is characterized in that this polymer gel agent is in said composition gross weight 1-3 weight %.
18. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this polyurethane powder is the copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trihydroxy methyl caprolactone.
19. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains polyurethane powder, its content is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %.
20. according to the compositions of claim 19, it is characterized in that it contains polyurethane powder, its content is in said composition gross weight 1-15 weight %.
21. according to the compositions of claim 20, it is characterized in that it contains polyurethane powder, its content is in said composition gross weight 5-15 weight %.
22. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule.
23. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, the content that it is characterized in that the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule are in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %.
24. according to the compositions of claim 23, the content that it is characterized in that the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is in said composition gross weight 0.5-25 weight %.
25. according to the compositions of claim 24, the content that it is characterized in that the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is in said composition gross weight 1-20 weight %.
26. according to the compositions of claim 25, the content that it is characterized in that the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is in said composition gross weight 5-15 weight %.
27. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains ethereal oil.
28. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the hydro carbons ethereal oil.
29. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the hydro carbons ethereal oil, the hydro carbons ethereal oil of own 8-16 the carbon atom of this grease separation, and their mixture.
30., it is characterized in that described hydro carbons ethereal oil is C according to the compositions of claim 29 8-C 16Branched alkane.
31. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the hydro carbons ethereal oil that is selected from Fancol ID, isodecane, different cetane and composition thereof.
32. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the mixture of Fancol ID and different cetane.
33. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the siloxanes ethereal oil.
34. compositions according to claim 33 is characterized in that this siloxanes ethereal oil that contains is selected from octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes, seven methyl hexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, ten dimethyl, five siloxanes and composition thereof.
35. compositions according to claim 27, the content that it is characterized in that ethereal oil are in said composition gross weight 5-60 weight %.
36. according to the compositions of claim 35, the content that it is characterized in that ethereal oil is in said composition gross weight 10-55 weight %.
37. according to the compositions of claim 36, the content that it is characterized in that ethereal oil is in said composition gross weight 30-50 weight %.
38. according to the compositions of claim 37, the content that it is characterized in that ethereal oil is in said composition gross weight 20-50 weight %.
39. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains nonvolatile oil.
40. compositions according to claim 19 is characterized in that it contains nonvolatile oil.
41. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the nonvolatile oil that is selected from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-type oil, nonvolatile type siloxane oil and composition thereof.
42. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains to be selected from C 12-C 36The nonvolatile oil of ester.
43. according to the described compositions of claim 39, the content that it is characterized in that this nonvolatile oil is in said composition gross weight 0.5-60 weight %.
44. according to the compositions of claim 43, the content that it is characterized in that this nonvolatile oil is in said composition gross weight 1-50 weight %.
45. according to the compositions of claim 44, the content that it is characterized in that this nonvolatile oil is in said composition gross weight 5-40 weight %.
46. according to the compositions of claim 45, the content that it is characterized in that this nonvolatile oil is in said composition gross weight 5-30 weight %.
47. according to the compositions of claim 46, the content that it is characterized in that this nonvolatile oil is in said composition gross weight 10-20 weight %.
48., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil is higher than the content of polymethyl methacrylate microgranule according to the described compositions of claim 40.
49., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule be greater than or equal to 1 according to the described compositions of claim 40.
50., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make that the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is 1-35 according to the compositions of claim 49.
51., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make that the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is 1-25 according to the compositions of claim 50.
52., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make that the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is 1-15 according to the compositions of claim 51.
53., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule be greater than or equal to 1.5 according to the described compositions of claim 40.
54., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make that the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is 1.5-35 according to the compositions of claim 53.
55., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make that the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is 1.5-25 according to the compositions of claim 54.
56., it is characterized in that the content of this nonvolatile oil and these polymethyl methacrylate microgranules is to make that the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil/polymethyl methacrylate microgranule is 1.5-15 according to the compositions of claim 55.
57. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains at least a coloured material.
58. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that this coloured material is selected from pigment, Concha Margaritifera, oil-soluble colorant and composition thereof.
59. according to the described compositions of claim 57, the content that it is characterized in that this coloured material is in said composition gross weight 0.1-20 weight %.
60. according to the compositions of claim 59, the content that it is characterized in that this coloured material is in said composition gross weight 0.5-15 weight %.
61. according to the compositions of claim 60, the content that it is characterized in that this coloured material is in said composition gross weight 1-15 weight %.
62. according to the compositions of claim 61, the content that it is characterized in that this coloured material is in said composition gross weight 5-15 weight %.
63. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the additional filler different with the polymethyl methacrylate microgranule with polyurethane powder.
64. according to the described compositions of claim 63; it is characterized in that this additional filler is selected from the silsesquioxane powder; Talcum; Muscovitum; silicon dioxide; Kaolin; polyamide powder; poly--the Beta-alanine powder; polyethylene powders; polytetrafluorethylepowder powder; lauroyl-lysine; starch; boron nitride; Vingon/acrylonitrile tiny balloon; the acrylic copolymer tiny balloon; the silicone resin powder; polysiloxane body microgranule; winnofil; magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; hydroxyapatite; glass or ceramic microcapsule; by the deutero-metallic soap of the organic carboxyl acid with 8-22 carbon atom, and their mixture.
65., it is characterized in that this additional filler is selected from silsesquioxane powder, Talcum, polyamide powder and composition thereof according to the described compositions of claim 64.
66. according to the described compositions of claim 64, the content that it is characterized in that this additional filler is in said composition gross weight 0.1-35 weight %.
67. according to the compositions of claim 66, the content that it is characterized in that this additional filler is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %.
68. according to the compositions of claim 67, the content that it is characterized in that this additional filler is in said composition gross weight 1-25 weight %.
69. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the silsesquioxane powder, its content is in said composition gross weight 0.5-30 weight %.
70. the compositions of claim 69 is characterized in that it contains the silsesquioxane powder, its content is in said composition gross weight 1-15 weight %.
71. according to the compositions of claim 70, it is characterized in that it contains the silsesquioxane powder, its content is in said composition gross weight 1-10 weight %.
72. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, the pulverulent material total content that it is characterized in that it are in said composition gross weight 20-50 weight %.
73. according to the compositions of claim 72, the pulverulent material total content that it is characterized in that it is in said composition gross weight 25-45 weight %.
74. according to the compositions of claim 73, the pulverulent material total content that it is characterized in that it is in said composition gross weight 30-40 weight %.
75. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it contains the inorganic thickening agent of oily medium.
76., it is characterized in that this oily medium inorganic thickening agent is selected from organophilic clay and pyrolytic silicon dioxide according to the described compositions of claim 75.
77. according to the described compositions of claim 75, the content that it is characterized in that this oily medium inorganic thickening agent is in said composition gross weight 0.5-5 weight %.
78. according to the compositions of claim 77, the content that it is characterized in that this oily medium inorganic thickening agent is in said composition gross weight 1-4 weight %.
79. according to the compositions of claim 78, the content that it is characterized in that this oily medium inorganic thickening agent is in said composition gross weight 2-4 weight %.
80. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that it contain be selected from antioxidant, spice, antiseptic, nertralizer, surfactant, sunscreen, vitamin, water absorbing agent, from the cosmetic components of brown skin chemical compound, anti-creasing agent.
81. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that it be not contained in its contain in the oil phase dispersive and on the surface with stabilization of polymer stable polymer microgranule.
82. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it is facial cream, eye shadow, rouge, anti-black eye product, body woman's persona product, cosmetic base material, skin skin smoothing product.
83. compositions according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that it is the fluidic gel form of non-deformable.
84. contain the facial cream of compositions that each claim limits among the claim 1-83.
85. the cosmetic method that beautifying skin or non-treatment are handled, this method is included in and is coated with the described compositions of each claim among the claim 1-84 on the skin.
86. reaching cosmetic according to compositions that each claim limits among the claim 1-84 with good maintenance performance, and/or tender cosmetic skin and/or comfortable cosmetic and/or have the cosmetic of the outward appearance of powdering and/or evenly make up in application.
87. 6 application according to Claim 8, the wherein cosmetic that after 12 hours, also has good maintenance performance according to compositions that each claim limits among the claim 1-84.
CN2005100783271A 2004-04-06 2005-04-05 Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising oil, polymeric gelling agent and polyurethane powder Expired - Fee Related CN1704044B (en)

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