CN1701784A - Cosmetics composition containing acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid bulb - Google Patents

Cosmetics composition containing acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid bulb Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1701784A
CN1701784A CNA2005100739118A CN200510073911A CN1701784A CN 1701784 A CN1701784 A CN 1701784A CN A2005100739118 A CNA2005100739118 A CN A2005100739118A CN 200510073911 A CN200510073911 A CN 200510073911A CN 1701784 A CN1701784 A CN 1701784A
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Prior art keywords
compositions
alkyl
lipoid
salt
sulfonic acid
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A·弗罗拉默里劳
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition which comprises a dispersion of foam formed by lipoid laminarization in outer aqueous phase and at least one compound choosing from the pantetheine and salt. The laminarization comprises at least one amphipathic lipids covered with aqueous phase. The invention also relates to a make-up method for whitening and/or brightening human body skin and/or hair (including body hair) including coating the cosmetic composition of the invention at the skin and/or the hair (including body hair).

Description

The cosmetic composition that contains acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid bulb
The present invention relates to contain the compositions that forms and comprise the bubble of at least a chemical compound that is selected from one of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid and salt thereof by lamellar phase, and relate to its cosmetic applications.
Acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid and salt thereof are active component commonly used in the cosmetics.They particularly as the reagent (JP-09110645) that promotes hair regeneration, as the reagent (JP-09059142) of skin whitening, the reagent (FR-2532175) of the active skin whitening by restraint of tyrosinase particularly, and particularly in containing the aging resistance compositions of hydroxy acid in addition as the reagent (JP-08259420) that strengthens cell exchange and disclose.Also advise suppressing skin irritation (JP-03054081) with them.At last, these chemical compounds to free radical resisting, help prevent or ultraviolet rays resistance radiation and/or to pollute the performance aspect the influence of skin be known (EP-1293193).
Yet applicant company is found, because the stability problem of active component and the character of self in compositions, are particularly mixed these active component and had some difficulty in cosmetic composition.More particularly, we observe acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid or its salt and show characteristics with temperature rising accelerated decomposition.This just means, in order to obtain desired effects, must use a large amount of active component.In fact, because the ionic nature of these chemical compounds mixes these chemical compounds too in large quantities and can cause these compositions instabilities, particularly when their gellings in compositions, can cause particularly that viscosity reduces in time, thereby their cosmetics performance is produced adverse effect.
From this observation, applicant company confirms, can address the above problem by mix described active component in the nuclear of the bubble that comprises lipoid stratiform wall, and obtain desired effects with the active component that is selected from acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid and salt thereof of minimum.
Therefore the present invention relates to a kind of compositions, said composition contains the dispersion of the bubble that is formed by the lipoid lamellar phase of aqueous phase outside and at least a chemical compound that is selected from one of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid and salt thereof that exists at interior aqueous phase, layeredly contains at least a amphiphilic lipoid mutually and has sealed interior water.
When compositions according to the present invention contains the salt of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid, this salt preferred as alkali or alkali salt.
Be particularly suitable for realizing that chemical compound of the present invention is the calcium salt of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid, it can be purchased from Sogo Pharmaceutical especially.
Be used to realize that bubble of the present invention is to have moisture nuclear, promptly coat the lipoid stratiform bubble of the nuclear of water, described water is interior water.These bubbles both can be the niosome of those disclosed type in application EP 0582503 grade, and this reference that is taught in of this application is quoted, and also can be the liposome of common type.
Under the situation of niosome, lamellar phase contains Arrcostab or the poly alkyl ester that at least a fusing point is at least 40 ℃, is selected from the polyhydric alcohol of not necessarily oxyethylation, and the non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid of the ether of the polyhydric alcohol of oxyethylation not necessarily.
Be applicable to the glycolipid (for example cerebroside) in the particularly natural or synthetic source of non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid of the present invention, or the mixture of the ester of the ester of polyhydric alcohol and at least a acid with the saturated hydrocarbon chain that comprises at least 14 carbon atoms, and the ether of polyhydric alcohol and at least a ether with alcohol of the saturated hydrocarbon chain that comprises at least 14 carbon atoms.
Term " mixture of ester " is interpreted as the mixture of the pure ester of being not only different chemical family, also is the spawn of several chemical pure esters that comprises the different proportion of mutually consanguinity polyhydric alcohol, for example comprises the ester of the unitary polyglycereol of glycerol of random quantity.
Therefore the non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid can by be selected from Polyethylene Glycol, anhydro sorbitol, the anhydro sorbitol that has 2-60 ethylene oxide unit, the glycerol that has 2-30 ethylene oxide unit that contain 1-60 ethylene oxide unit, contain 2-15 the unitary polyglycereol of glycerol, sucrose and have 2-30 ethylene oxide unit glucose at least a polyhydric alcohol ester and at least aly contain saturated or undersaturated straight or branched C 14-C 20The mixture of the ester of the fatty acid of hydrocarbon chain is formed.
The ether of adoptable polyhydric alcohol can be mentioned according to the present invention:
-have general formula respectively
R-(OCH 2-CH(OH)-CH 2) n-OH??????(I)
With
R-(O-CH 2-CH(CH 20H) n-OH???????(II)
The straight or branched ether of polyglycereol,
Wherein n is the integer of 1-6, preferably equals 2, and R is selected from following group:
(a) contain the saturated or undersaturated straight or branched aliphatic chain of 14-30 carbon atom, for example the alkyl of the alkyl of myristyl or cetyl or oleyl alcohol or isostearoyl alcohol;
(b) alkyl of lanolin alcohol;
(c) the 2-hydroxyalkyl residue of glycol, its hydrocarbon chain contains at least 14 carbon atoms; With
The aliphatic alcohol of-polyoxyethyleneization is for example used the oleyl alcohol of 10mol (" Brij 96 " product, by Uniqema sell) oxyethylation.
In addition, in order to improve the stability of said n iosome, lamellar phase also can contain ion amphiphilic lipoid.The latter can be selected from anionic species fat and cation lipoid.
Be suitable for realizing that anionic amphiphilic lipoid of the present invention can be:
Neutral anion lipoid; be preferably selected from the alkali metal salt of dicetyl phosphate ester and deci tetraalkyl phosphate ester; particularly sodium salt and potassium salt; the alkali metal salt of phosphatidic acid; sodium salt particularly; the alkali metal salt of cholesterol sulfate; sodium salt particularly; the phosphatic alkali metal salt of cholesterol; the salt of particularly sodium salt, or lipoamino acid, for example acyl glutamic acid one sodium and acyl glutamic acid disodium; more particularly by the disodium salt of Ajinomoto with the N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid of trade name Acylglutamate HS21 sale
Amphoteric lipids, phospholipid preferably, particularly pure soybean phospholipid acyl ethanolamine;
The chemical compound of alkyl sulfonic acid derivative, particularly following general formula:
Wherein R represents C 12-C 22Alkyl, particularly C 16H 33And C 18H 37Group, M are alkali metal, preferred sodium.
Can be used for bubble of the present invention and can more particularly be selected from group by quaternary ammonium salt, fatty amine and their salt formation as the cationic amphiphilic lipoid of ion amphiphilic lipoid.
Be particularly suitable for realizing that ammonium salt of the present invention can mention:
By those of following general formula (II) representative:
Figure A20051007391100072
R wherein 1To R 4Group can be identical or different, and representative contains the straight or branched aliphatic group or the aromatic group of 1-30 carbon atom, for example aryl or alkaryl.Aliphatic group can contain hetero atom, for example particularly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogen.Aliphatic group for example is selected from alkyl, alkoxyl, polyoxy (C 2-C 6) alkylidene, alkyl amido, (C 12-C 22) alkyl amido (C 2-C 6) alkyl, acetic acid (C 12-C 22) Arrcostab or contain the hydroxyalkyl of 1-30 the carbon atom of having an appointment; X is selected from halogenide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C 2-C 6) alkyl sulfate or alkyl-or the anion of alkylaryl sulfonates.The preferential on the one hand tetra-alkyl ammonium chloride of recommending of the quaternary ammonium salt of general formula (II), for example wherein alkyl contains the dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or the alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride of 12-22 the carbon atom of having an appointment, particularly INCROQUAT TMC-80 ECONOL TM22, distearyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyl dimethyl stearoyl chlorination ammonium, or alternatively recommend amino propyl-dimethyl (acetic acid myristin) ammonium chloride of stearoyl sold with trade name Aceraphyl 70@ by Van Dyk.
For example by the imidazoline quaternary ammonium salt of following general formula (III) representative:
R wherein 5Typical example is as alkenyl that contains 8-30 carbon atom or alkyl derived from the tallow fatty acid; R 6Represent hydrogen atom, contain the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom or contain the alkenyl or the alkyl of 8-30 carbon atom; R 7Representative contains the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom; R 8Represent hydrogen atom or contain the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom; X is selected from halogenide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate or alkyl-or the anion of alkylaryl sulfonates.R 5And R 6Preferably refer to for example derived from the alkenyl that contains 12-21 carbon atom of tallow fatty acid or the mixture of alkyl, R 7Preferably fingernail base and R 8Preferably refer to hydrogen.This product is the Arewoquat W75@ that sells of Rewo for example.
Season di-ammonium salts by following general formula (IV) representative:
R wherein 9Refer to contain the aliphatic group of 16-30 the carbon atom of having an appointment; R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13And R 14Can be identical or different, and be selected from hydrogen or contain the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom; X is the anion that is selected from halogenide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate and Methylsulfate.This season, di-ammonium salts comprised particularly propane tallow dichloride diammonium.
Except nonionic and ion amphiphilic lipoid, the lamellar phase of niosome type bubble also can contain at least a pure and mild glycol that is selected from sterol, has aliphatic chain, have the amine of aliphatic chain and the additive of their quaternary ammonium derivative.
The preferred cholesterol that adopts, except the cosmetics and/or dermal drug activity relevant with the ability of its reconstruction skin lipoid, it can improve the stability of bubble by avoiding the crystallization of bonded surfactant with it.By improving the impermeability of the lamellar phase that steeps, cholesterol can also strengthen the ability that maintenance may be present in the water-soluble active ingredient of the aqueous phase that is coated by niosome.
The lamellar phase of Niosome type bubble can for example comprise non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid, 0-20% (weight) ion amphiphilic lipoid and 5-50% (weight) cholesterol of 35-90% (weight) for the gross weight of the composition lipoid of lamellar phase.
As mentioned above, lipoid stratiform bubble according to the present invention not only can comprise the nonionic bubble such as niosome, also can comprise and contain such as natural or synthetic phospholipid, lecithin particularly, the traditional liposomal of at least a ion amphiphilic lipoid of preferred hydrolecithin, described liposome both can be with cholesterol and had not necessarily been combined with ionic surface active agent, also can combine with the oxyethylation plant sterol that contains 2-50 ethylene oxide unit.
Manufacture method according to bubble of the present invention is known to a person of ordinary skill in the art, but preferable methods is as follows:
" Bangham " method
The blister lipoid is dissolved in the ORGANIC SOLVENT MIXTURES.Subsequently mixture is placed round-bottomed flask, then solvent evaporated under reduced pressure on the rotation transponder.Form lipid membrane then.After solvent evaporated fully, the water solution water was should film under vigorous stirring.With the fusing point of thermoregulation to lipoid.Obtain the suspension of liposome then.Following available ultrasound wave homogenizes.
The lipoid direct hydration method
Can also can not be pre-mixed lipoid (by fusing or dissolving) in advance.Under suitable temperature, add in the aqueous solution lipid mixture and vigorous stirring (for example using the rotor-stator agitator) then.After a few minutes (being generally 5-90 minute), obtain the suspension of liposome.Thereby provide the water dispersion.
In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the content that constitutes the lipoid of bubble is the 0.05-5% (weight) of compositions gross weight, preferred 0.1-2% (weight).
By the gross weight of the lipoid that constitutes bubble, acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid or the content of its salt in bubble are preferably 1-20 weight %, more preferably 5-15 weight %.
Therefore the content of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid or its salt is generally the 0.0001-10% of compositions gross weight, preferred 0.001-5%.
Outside dewatering, the water that coats also can contain various additives such as surfactant, antiseptic or chelating agen.
Can contain one or more in addition according to the bubble of compositions of the present invention and have cosmetics and/or active other reactive compounds of dermal drug, according to their solubility characteristics, they can have different positions.
If active component is a water-soluble active ingredient, they can be introduced the aqueous phase that coats.
If active component is a fat-soluble active ingredient, they can be introduced the film forming lipoid of structure mutually in.
If active component is the amphiphilic active component, they can be distributed in lipoid mutually and between the water that coats, partition coefficient is according to the character of amphiphilic active component and lipoid mutually and separately component of the water of coating and different.
In compositions according to the present invention, bubble with above-mentioned moisture nuclear (niosome or liposome) is dispersed in and contains dispersion water or the outer aqueous phase that physiology can be accepted medium, described medium promptly with skin or its this bulk-growth of epidermis and not necessarily with mucosa and/or the compatible medium of half mucosa.
But disperse the water gelling.According to the present invention adoptable gellant be for example CVP Carbopol ETD2050 (carbomer), such as the acrylic copolymer of acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymer, such as polyacrylamide, polysaccharide, natural gum and the clay of the neutral and highly cross-linked polyacrylamide amino methyl propane sulfonic acid of part.
As selectable form, disperse water can comprise the oil phase (O/w emulsion) that is dispersed in described aqueous phase and/or itself can be dispersed in (water-in-oil emulsion) in the oil phase.
Adoptable oil can be mentioned animal or plant oil, natural or synthetic quintessence oil, the hydrocarbon such as 2-Methylpentadecane and liquid paraffin, halogenated hydrocarbons and silicone oil according to the present invention.
Adoptable animal or plant oil can be mentioned the animal or plant oil by the esterification formation of fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol especially according to the present invention, particularly liquid triglyceride, for example Oleum Helianthi, Semen Maydis oil, soybean oil, Semen Cucumidis sativi oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, simmondsia oil, Oleum sesami and hazelnut oil, fish oil, three capric acid/caprylin or general formula R 1COOR 2Plant or animal oil, R wherein 1Representative contains the residue of the higher fatty acids of 7-19 carbon atom, R 2Representative contains the branching hydrocarbon chain of 3-20 carbon atom, for example purcellin oil.
Adoptable quintessence oil can be mentioned the natural or synthetic quintessence oil such as for example Eucalyptus oil, hybrid Oleum lavandula angustifolia, Oleum lavandula angustifolia, vetiver oil, litsea cubeba oil, Fructus Citri Limoniae oil, Oleum Santali albi, oil of rosemary, chamomile oil, savory oil, Semen Myristicae oil, Oleum Cinnamomi, oil of hyssop, caraway seed oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil and oleum bergamottae according to the present invention.
Adoptable halogenated hydrocarbons can be mentioned the fluorocarbon such as fluoroamine according to the present invention, for example the perfluor tri-butylamine; Fluorinated hydrocarbons, for example perfluor decahydronaphthalenes; Fluoroester and fluoro-ether.
Be dispersed at bubble according to the present invention under the situation of aqueous phase of O/w emulsion, described emulsion can contain other surfactants except that the surfactant that constitutes this bubble, and condition is that these surfactants can not dissolve this bubble formation micella.
Yet according to another kind of probability, when compositions according to the present invention was the O/w emulsion form, said composition can not comprise the another kind of surfactant except that the surfactant that forms lipoid stratiform bubble.This is because can stabilize oil drop in the dispersion of disperseing aqueous phase according to bubble of the present invention, and need not to add surfactant to described aqueous phase.
Certainly, according to compositions of the present invention can multiple Water-In-Oil bag oil or the form of water-in-oil-in-water compositions provide, as a kind of selectable form, the definition of water and oil phase is as above.
Can also known mode comprise the standard adjuvant of cosmetic field according to compositions of the present invention, for example antiseptic, antioxidant, solvent, spice, eliminating smell agent, nertralizer, sunscreen, polymer, emulsifying agent and co-emulsifier, and coloured material.
Can utilize desquamation tablet (desquamating agent) especially as active component, hygroscopic agent, depigmenting agent or coloring agent former (propigmenting agents), antiglycationagents, the NO synthase inhibitor, the 5 inhibitor, lysyl and/or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, chafe or epidermis macromole synthesize and/or prevent the reagent of their decomposition, stimulate the reagent of fibroblast or Keratinocytic propagation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, muscle relaxant or cutis laxa agent, antimicrobial, fixative is used for the reagent of antipollution or free radical resisting, antiinflammatory; Lipolytic activity composition or in the reduction of fatty tissue, have the active component of direct or indirect excellent activity; Act on microcirculatory reagent and the reagent that acts on the energy metabolism of cell.
Of the present invention useful aspect, therefore composition therefor can comprise at least a desquamation tablet.
Term " desquamation tablet " is interpreted as any chemical compound that can play following effect:
-directly act on desquamate chemical compound by promoting to peel off, for example beta-hydroxy acid, particularly salicylic acid and derivant thereof (comprising the positive MEXORYL SAM of 5-); 'alpha '-hydroxy acids such as glycolic, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; Urea; 2, the 5-protocatechuic acid; Low fucose (oligofucose); Cinnamic acid; Sophora japonica extract; Or resveratrol;
-or act on relate to the enzyme that desquamating or corneodesmosome decompose, glycosidase, horny layer trypsin SCCE) or in fact even the chemical compound on other the protease (trypsin, class chymase).Can mention inorganic salt chelating agen: EDTA; N-acyl group-N, N ', N '-ethylenediamine triacetic acid; Sulfamic acid compound, particularly N-(2-ethoxy) piperazine-N '-2 ethane sulfonic aicd (HEPES); The derivant of 2-oxo Thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine); The derivant of glycine class a-amino acid (the methylglycine sodium diacelate for example disclosed among the EP-0852949, that BASF sells with trade name Trilon M); Honey; Or such as the sugar derivatives of adjacent caprylyl-6-dextrorotation maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
One of the present invention useful aspect, composition therefor can contain or in addition to contain at least a depigmentation or anti-chromogenesis active component as the form of selecting.
Can mix according to depigmenting agent in the compositions of the present invention or anti-chromogenesis agent and comprise for example following chemical compound: kojic acid; Ellagic acid; Arbutin and derivant thereof are for example applied for those disclosed among EP-895779 and the EP-524109; Hydroquinone; Aminophenol derivates with fungicidal property is for example applied for those disclosed among WO99/10318 and the WO 99/32077, particularly N-cholesteryl oxygen carbonyl para-aminophenol and N-ethoxy carbonyl para-aminophenol; The imino group phenol derivatives is particularly applied for those disclosed among the WO 99/22707; L-2-oxo Thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid and salt and salt; Ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, particularly ascorbic acid glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; 4-butyl resorcinol or lucinol; Thiourea and derivant thereof; And plant extract, the particularly extract of Man Salita tree, Radix Glycyrrhizae, Mulberry and Radix Scutellariae, but be not limited to these.
According to a preferred embodiment; can contain in addition at activated at least a organic bright protective agent of UV-A and/or UV-B district and/or at least a inorganic bright protective agent (absorbent) according to compositions of the present invention; in their water solubles or the fat, otherwise just be insoluble in the cosmetics solvent commonly used.
Organic bright protective agent particularly is selected from anthranilate; Cinnamic acid derivative; The dibenzoyl methane derivant; Salicyclic acid derivatives; Camphor derivatives; Such as disclosed pyrrolotriazine derivatives among patent application US 4367390, EP 863145, EP 517104, EP 570838, EP 796851, EP 775698, EP 878469, EP 933376, EP 507691, EP 507692, EP 790243 and the EP 944624; Benzophenone derivative; β, β-diphenylacrylate; Benzotriazole derivatives; The toluenyl malonic ester derivant; Benzimidizole derivatives; Imidazoline; As disclosed pair of benzopyrrole radical derivative among patent EP 669323 and the US 2463264; Para-amino benzoic acid (PABA) derivant; As apply for disclosed di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide (hydroxy-phenyl benzotriazole) derivant among US 5237071, US 5166355, GB2303549, DE 19726184 and the EP 893119; Disclosedly among the WO 93/04665 shelter polymer and shelter siloxanes such as particularly applying for; Such as disclosed dimer among the patent application DE 19855649 derived from alpha-alkyl phenylethylene; As apply among EP 0967200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1133980 and the EP 133981 disclosed 4,4-diaryl butadiene; And their mixture.
More particularly preferred organic bright protective agent is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate; ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate; octocrylene; Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid; benzophenone-3; benzophenone-4; benzophenone-5; 4 methyl benzylidene camphor; the Terephthalidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid; phenyl bisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonic acid disodium; 2; 4; 6-three (the amino benzal malonic acid diisobutyl ester of 4-)-s-triazine; anisotriazine; the ethylhexyl triazinone; diethylhexyl butamido triazinone; Tinuvin 360; drometrizole trisiloxane, and their mixture.
Inorganic bright protective agent be selected from pigment or as select by the nano dye (mean diameter of primary particle: be generally 5-100nm that applies or uncoated metal-oxide forms; preferred 10-50nm); for example the titanium oxide crystal of rutile and/or anatase form (amorphous or), ferrum oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide nano pigment, they itself all are known ultraviolet protective agents.In addition, Chang Gui smears is aluminium oxide and/or aluminium stearate.Thisly be disclosed in particularly among the patent application EP 518772 and EP 518773 by the nano dye that applies or uncoated metal-oxide forms.
Usually with the 0.1-20% (weight) of compositions gross weight, the ratio of the 0.2-15% of preferred composition gross weight (weight) is present in according in the compositions of the present invention bright protective agent.
Compositions according to the present invention can be used for avoiding and/or to the sign of the influence of resisting age of skin and/or pollution.
Yet the present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic method of brightening of human body skin and/or hair (comprising chaeta) and/or blast, comprises above-mentioned cosmetic composition is coated on skin and/or the hair (comprising chaeta).
Following examples illustrate the present invention and do not limit the scope of the invention.Chemical compound proposes according to chemical name or according to CTFA (" international cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook " (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary andHandbook)) title according to its position difference.
Embodiment
Embodiment 1: based on the preparation of the niosomes of the calcium salt of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid
Prepare following mixture:
Palmic acid Isosorbide Dinitrate 6.75%
Acyl glutamic acid disodium 1.5%
Cholesterol 6.75%
The calcium salt 1% of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid
EDTA??????????????????????????????????????1％
Antiseptic 1%
Water is in right amount to 100%
Step:
After water, acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid calcium and EDTA be stirred and heated to 80 ℃, add anion surfactant (acyl glutamic acid disodium), non-ionic surface active agent (Palmic acid Isosorbide Dinitrate) and cholesterol.Mixture was placed 1 hour down at 80 ℃.
Embodiment 2: the oil-in-water fluid
Prepare following compositions:
A phase: the mixture (15/85) 1% of Semen arachidis hypogaeae acidic group polyglucoside and the pure and mild behenyl alcohol of Semen arachidis hypogaeae
Stearic acid 0.5%
Hexamethylene siloxanes (cyclohexasiloxane) 4%
Hydrogenation isoparaffin 3%
Spice 0.1%
B phase: water 73%
Glycerol 7%
carbomer?????????????????????????????????????????????0.3％
Antiseptic 0.6%
C phase: triethanolamine 0.5%
The niosomes 11% of embodiment 1 preparation
Step:
The composition of heating A phase adds the B phase then, and 70 ℃ mix down and these two kinds of emulsifyings mutually.Then reduce the temperature to 30 ℃.Then with neutralize this mixture and add the niosomes of preparation of triethanolamine.
But this fluid smears twice every day, with to free radical resisting and pollutant effects.
15 days cream frosts of embodiment 3:SPF
A phase: stearic acid 1.5%
Tristerin/PEG-100 stearate 2%
Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 6%
Dimethicone 4%
Encircle penta siloxanes (cyclopentasiloxane) 7%
Almond oil 2%
Candlenut oil 1%
Spice 0.3%
B phase: water 50.25%
Glycerol 4%
Chlorphenesin?????????????????????????????????0.5％
Titanium oxide 2%
Polyacrylamide amino methyl propane sulfonic acid 1.3%
C phase: silicon oxide microballon 1%
D phase: according to the niosomes 15% of embodiment 1 preparation
Water 1.5%
Diazolidinyl urea 0.15%
Anti-bad blood base glucoside 0.5%
Step:
With A heat phase to 80 ℃, and confirm that solution clarifies.Then with B heat phase to 75 ℃ and add A mutually in.Mix and these two kinds of phases of emulsifying.Cool off this emulsion then and add C mutually with D mutually.
This cream frost can be used for brightening of facial and hand skin.
Embodiment 4: the ight fluid
A phase: polysorbate-60 2%
Spermol 1%
Parleam 3%
Hexamethylene dimethyl siloxane 7%
Spice 0.2%
B phase: water 58.4%
Glycerol 5%
Propylene glycol 2%
Antiseptic 0.3%
Acrylic acid/methacrylic acid stearoyl ester copolymer (Pemulen TR1) 0.5%
C phase: triethanolamine 0.1%
Antiseptic 0.2%
D phase: tocopherol 0.3%
E phase: according to the niosomes preparation 20% of embodiment 1
Step:
Heat A phase and B composition mutually respectively.Mix these two kinds of phases and under 70 ℃, carry out emulsifying.Then reduce the temperature to 30 ℃.With the TEA neutralization, add D and add the E phase mutually then then.
This cream frost can be applicable to face and hand, and alleviates because the aging speckle that produces.
Embodiment 5: the demonstration of the stability of the calcium salt of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid
Estimate the stability of calcium salt in the compositions of embodiment 2 of D-pantetheine-S-sulfonic acid, and except acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid be free form and be not included in the bubble stability in other all identical compositionss (comparative example) with embodiment 2.
Scheme:
By high performance liquid chromatography, quantitative assay acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid calcium on the MerckLichrospher 100NH2 of long 250mm, diameter 4.6mm (5 μ m) post.With the acetonitrile in the phosphate buffer of pH2.1 as eluent.Flow rate regulation is arrived 1ml/min.Injection volume is 10 μ l.Extract at the 210nm place.About 8.5 minutes of retention time.
The chemical compound of the standard of being used as is 70% a raw material form in the water, is provided by SogoPharmaceutical.
The result:
The results are shown in following table:
Compositions Theoretical content 45 ℃ of content of placing down after 2 months
Embodiment 2 ??0.11 ??0.104
Comparative example ??0.11 ??0.090
These results show that in compositions according to the present invention, the calcium salt of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid does not decompose, and in being used as the compositions of comparative example, observed decomposition is about 18%.

Claims (20)

1, is included in the dispersion of the bubble that forms by the lipoid lamellar phase of outer aqueous phase and at least a compound compositions that is selected from one of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid and salt thereof that exists at interior aqueous phase, layeredly contains at least a amphiphilic lipoid mutually and sealed interior water.
2, the compositions of claim 1, the salt that it is characterized in that acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid are alkali metal salt or alkali salt.
3, the compositions of claim 2, the salt that it is characterized in that acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid are the calcium salts of acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid.
4, the compositions of one of claim 1-3 is characterized in that lamellar phase contains fusing point and is at least 40 ℃, is selected from the Arrcostab of polyhydric alcohol of not necessarily oxyethylation or poly alkyl ester and at least a non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid of the mixture of the alkyl ether of the polyhydric alcohol of oxyethylation or poly alkyl ether not necessarily.
5, the compositions of claim 4 is characterized in that the mixture of the ester of ester that described non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid is a polyhydric alcohol and at least a acid with the saturated hydrocarbon chain that comprises at least 14 carbon atoms.
6, the compositions of claim 4 is characterized in that ether and at least a ether with alcohol of the saturated hydrocarbon chain that comprises at least 14 carbon atoms that described non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid is a polyhydric alcohol.
7, the compositions of one of claim 4-6, it is characterized in that described non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid by be selected from Polyethylene Glycol, anhydro sorbitol, the anhydro sorbitol that has 2-60 ethylene oxide unit, the glycerol that has 2-30 ethylene oxide unit that contain 1-60 ethylene oxide unit, contain 2-15 the unitary polyglycereol of glycerol, sucrose and have 2-30 ethylene oxide unit glucose at least a polyhydric alcohol ester and at least aly contain saturated or undersaturated straight or branched C 14-C 20The mixture of the ester of the fatty acid of hydrocarbon chain is formed.
8, the compositions of one of claim 4-7 is characterized in that lamellar phase also contains ion amphiphilic lipoid.
9, the compositions of claim 8 is characterized in that ion amphiphilic lipoid is selected from the alkali metal salt of dicetyl phosphate ester and deci tetraalkyl phosphate ester; Cholesteric alkali metal sulfates; Cholesteric alkali metal phosphate; Acyl glutamic acid one sodium and acyl glutamic acid disodium; The sodium salt of phosphatidic acid; Phospholipid; And alkyl sulfonic acid derivative, by the ammonium salt of following general formula (II) representative:
R wherein 1To R 4Group is identical or different, and representative contains the straight or branched aliphatic group of 1-30 carbon atom, or such as the aromatic group of aryl or alkaryl; With X is to be selected from halogenide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C 2-C 6) alkyl sulfate or alkyl-or the anion of alkylaryl-sulfonate,
For example by the imidazoline quaternary ammonium salt of following general formula (III) representative:
R wherein 5Representative contains the alkenyl or the alkyl of 8-30 carbon atom; R 6Represent hydrogen atom, contain the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom, or contain the alkenyl or the alkyl of 8-30 carbon atom; R 7Representative contains the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom; R 8Represent hydrogen atom or contain the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom; With X is to be selected from halogenide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate or alkyl-or the anion of alkylaryl-sulfonate, and
Season di-ammonium salts by following general formula (IV) representative:
R wherein 9Refer to contain the aliphatic group of 16-30 the carbon atom of having an appointment; R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13And R 14Identical or different, and be selected from hydrogen or contain the alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom; With X be the anion that is selected from halogenide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate and Methylsulfate.
10, each compositions of claim 4-9 is characterized in that layeredly containing at least a pure and mild glycol that is selected from sterol, has aliphatic chain mutually, having the amine of aliphatic chain and the additive of their quaternary ammonium derivative.
11, the compositions of claim 10 is characterized in that described additive is a cholesterol.
12, the compositions of claim 11 is characterized in that the layered non-ionic amphiphilic lipoid of the 35-90% weight of the composition lipoid gross weight that accounts for lamellar phase, the ion amphiphilic lipoid of 0-20% weight and the cholesterol of 5-50% weight of comprising mutually.
13, each compositions of claim 1-12 is characterized in that the content of the composition lipoid that steeps is the 0.05-5% of compositions gross weight, preferred 0.1-2%.
14, each compositions of claim 1-13, the content that it is characterized in that acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid or its salt is the 0.0001-10% of compositions gross weight, preferred 0.001-5%.
15, the compositions of one of claim 1-14 is characterized in that acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid or the content of its salt in bubble are for constituting the 1-20% of the lipoid gross weight of steeping, more preferably 5-15% weight.
16, each compositions of claim 1-15 is characterized in that it also contains to be dispersed in oil phase outer aqueous phase and/or that wherein disperseed described outer water.
17, each compositions of aforementioned claim is characterized in that it also contains at least a other water miscible, amphipathic or fat-soluble active component.
18, the compositions of one of claim 1-17 is characterized in that it also contains the active component of at least a desquamation tablet and/or at least a other depigmentations or anti-chromogenesis.
19, each compositions of claim 1-18 is characterized in that it also contains at activated at least a organic bright protective agent of UV-A and/or UV-B district and/or at least a inorganic bright protective agent.
20, brighten and/or blast human body skin and/or hair, comprise the cosmetic method of chaeta, comprise that the cosmetic composition with one of claim 1-19 is coated in skin and/or hair, comprise on the chaeta.
CNA2005100739118A 2004-05-24 2005-05-23 Cosmetics composition containing acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid bulb Pending CN1701784A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR0451015A FR2870455B1 (en) 2004-05-24 2004-05-24 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING PANTETHEIN SULFONIC ACID VESICLES
FR0451015 2004-05-24

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FR2898807B1 (en) * 2006-03-23 2008-12-05 Oreal COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROXYAPATITE AND CALCIUM SALT FOR STRENGTHENING BARRIER FUNCTION OF SKIN AND / OR SEMI-MUCOUS
US20180185257A1 (en) 2016-12-29 2018-07-05 Korea Institute Of Ocean Science And Technology Composition for promoting hair growth containing novel pantetheine derivative

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JPS6064922A (en) 1983-09-21 1985-04-13 Sogo Yatsukou Kk Dermatic drug for external application
FR2694884B1 (en) * 1992-08-03 1996-10-18 Oreal COMPOSITION FORMED FROM AN AQUEOUS DISPERSION OF STABILIZED NON-IONIC AMPHIPHILIC LIPID VESICLES.
US5445823A (en) * 1994-10-20 1995-08-29 The Procter & Gamble Company Dermatological compositions and method of treatment of skin lesions therewith
JP3378127B2 (en) * 1995-08-25 2003-02-17 カネボウ株式会社 Whitening cosmetics
JPH11241118A (en) 1998-02-26 1999-09-07 Nkk Corp Manufacture of high tensile strength steel excellent in toughness in weld zone
JP4143201B2 (en) * 1999-01-13 2008-09-03 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 Whitening cosmetic
FR2811564B1 (en) 2000-07-13 2002-12-27 Oreal NANOEMULSION CONTAINING NON-IONIC POLYMERS, AND ITS USES IN PARTICULAR IN THE COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL, PHARMACEUTICAL AND / OR OPHTHALMOLOGICAL FIELDS
FR2829696B1 (en) * 2001-09-17 2004-02-27 Oreal USE OF PANTETHEIN SULFONIC ACID AND / OR ITS SALTS AS ANTI-RADICAL AGENT
FR2832630B1 (en) 2001-11-28 2005-01-14 Oreal COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING AT LEAST ONE OXIDATION-SENSITIVE HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE STABILIZED WITH AT LEAST ONE COPOLYMER OF N-VINYLIMIDAZOLE

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KR20060048090A (en) 2006-05-18
FR2870455A1 (en) 2005-11-25

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