CN1699659B - Super black wool worsted face fabric and preparing process thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a kind of super black wool spun material and features that the warp and weft of the material are made of wool ribbons after their dyeing and through the re-combing process, and the spun yarns. The invention also relates to a preparing method for the material. By applying to this invention, the material has an even color and luster, and the same batch of cloth cover materials has no difference one from the other; the same is true with different batches of cloth cover materials. The first-rate product of this material accounts for over 98%.

Description

A kind of super black wool worsted face fabric and preparation method thereof

One, technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of wool worsted face fabric, especially a kind of super black wool worsted face fabric and preparation method thereof.

Two, background technology

Wool is as a kind of natural fabric, because it is soft, quality is strong and have good curling elasticity and warmth retention property, gloss is soft naturally, is the textile raw material than higher gears always, is subjected to liking of consumers in general deeply.Super black wool worsted face fabric is sales volume color and luster preferably in the market, and through being usually used in the formal dress lining, especially in the Japanese market, all adults almost are staff two covers, and its demand is very big.But the super black wool worsted face fabric that existing market is sold is always unsatisfactory, because of it all is to adopt piece dyeing, promptly by wool tops through recombing, spin and weave, make wool cloth lining, lining through cloth Ke Laoyi (the shrinkproof processing of wool mercerising), dyeing and postfinishing process, makes super black wool worsted face fabric again; Because cloth can not make view picture cloth handle unanimity fully when the shrinkproof processing of wool mercerising, thereby make that lining after dying is prone to that cylinder is poor, shade deviation occurs on a difference and a cloth, through the test of computer chromatic measuring system, numerical fluctuations is bigger, makes institute's clothes color and luster of makeing variant; And lining is criticized and batch between shade deviation also bigger; Also make the top-quality product rate of the super black wool worsted face fabric that makes by piece dyeing lower thus, generally 60～70%.

Three, summary of the invention

At above-mentioned shortcoming, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of cloth color and luster evenly, the super black wool worsted face fabric of no cylinder difference and a difference.

Another object of the present invention is to provide the preparation method of super black wool worsted face fabric.

Technology contents of the present invention is, a kind of super black wool worsted face fabric is characterized by the warp thread of this lining and the weft yarn wool tops after by dyeing and makes through recombing and spinning.

A kind of super black wool worsted face fabric, its production method comprises the steps:

(1), wool tops is carried out the shrinkproof processing of wool mercerising;

(2), carry out the wool tops pre-treatment with levelling agent; With acid mordant dye wool tops is dyeed; Carry out wool tops dyeing post processing with washing agent and levelling agent;

(3), the wool tops after the dyeing through recombing, spin, weave and back arrangement increases the depths science and engineering and plants and make super black wool worsted face fabric;

Back arrangement increase depths science and engineering skill for singe → baking → ripe the repairing of a crabbing → braying → secondary crabbing → once → brush cut → three crabbing → secondaries dry by the fire → increase depths reason → middle inspection → decatizing → preshrunk → one-tenth and examine; Increasing depths science and engineering skill is: will increasing dark auxiliary agent, to be mixed with concentration be the dark liquid of increasing of 35～45g/L, PH=5～6, and temperature is 30～45 ℃, adopts two to soak two methods of rolling, and pick-up is 70～80%, and baking and banking up with earth temperature is 110～130 ℃, and the time of baking and banking up with earth is 2～3 minutes.

The shrinkproof processing of wool tops wool mercerising, recombing, wool tops dyeing, wool tops dyeing post processing, spinning and weaving process all adopt conventional known production technology.

The purpose that wool tops carries out the shrinkproof processing of wool mercerising is to make the wool dephosphorization, the time allows in dyeing dyestuff is easier to be entered in the wool fibre.

The levelling agent of wool tops pre-treatment is a peregal, consumption is 0.3～0.8% (o.w.f), and treatment temperature is 75～85 ℃, its objective is impurity such as grease on the wool of place to go, be improved with friction and the crabbing fastness that guarantees dyeing back wool tops, increase the Color of wool.

The dyestuff of wool tops dyeing usefulness is: Mordant Black PV, Mordant Black WPN, orchid receive uniformly dyeing material or the black PLC of big eman, and its consumption is 6～12% (o.w.f); The black PLC of the preferred big eman of dyestuff, this dyestuff can make the tinctorial yield of wool tops higher, and its all chromium coefficients low be 0.2%, low to the pollution of environment, and the chromium coefficient of conventional mordant dyes is generally all 0.35～0.4%.

Wool tops dyeing aftertreatment technology purpose is that the crabbing fastness of wool is reached more than 4 grades.

Because of wool tops very poor, for saturation force and the crude oil that improves wool tops adopts Germany to produce 3X through the shrinkproof saturation force of handling the back wool tops of mercerising.

For the filoplume that can reduce yam surface can increase depth of color again, when spun yarn is produced, adopt during spinning and closely spin production.

Back arrangement increases depths science and engineering skill and is functional processing, and it is dark 10～20% that it can make the color of lining increase, and increases dark auxiliary agent can select deep-dyeing agent FA-11 or deep-dyeing agent 2002P for use preferred deep-dyeing agent FA-11.

A crabbing plays the chemical style-setting effect for adding the setting agent crabbing in three crabbing technologies, and three crabbings make lining cloth cover before increasing the depths reason clean and tidy and clean for adding the washing agent crabbing.

Super black wool worsted face fabric of the present invention is owing to the warp thread and the weft yarn of lining are made through recombing and spinning by the wool tops after dyeing, make and do not have a cylinder difference and a difference phenomenon with a collection of cloth lining by the super black wool worsted face fabric cloth shade fabric uniformity that makes; The cloth lining batch with criticize between shade deviation little; The top-quality product rate of the cloth lining of producing is more than 98%.

Four, the specific embodiment

Example 1

Produce super black wool worsted face fabric through following steps with 80S Australia hair wool tops:

(1), wool tops is carried out the shrinkproof processing of wool mercerising, technology is chlorination of wool dephosphorization → dechlorination → neutralization → cleaning → wool acidifying → softness → oven dry;

(2), carry out the wool tops pre-treatment, consumption is 0.5% (o.w.f), and treatment temperature is 80 ℃ with the levelling agent peregal; Wool tops is dyeed, when being 40 ℃, its technology adds the black PLC of the big eman of dyestuff, consumption is 10% (o.w.f), and pH value is 3.5～4.5, is warmed up to 100 ℃, be incubated 25 minutes, add acetic acid, be incubated 20 minutes, cool to 65 ℃ again, add the oxidant sodium dichromate, be warmed up to 50 minutes afterflush of 100 ℃ of insulations again; The wool tops post processing of dyeing, its washing agent is a washing agent 209, levelling agent is a peregal;

(3), wool tops through recombing, spin, weave and after arrangement increase depths science and engineering skill and make super black wool worsted face fabric; Recombing technology is silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → last grilling → the first two grilling → combing → back one grilling → back two grillings → back three grillings; Spinning process is silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → spun yarn → from winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; With crude oil be that Germany produces 3X, during spinning when spun yarn is produced employing closely spin production; Back arrangement increase depths science and engineering skill for singe → baking → ripe the repairing of a crabbing → braying → secondary crabbing → once → brush cut → three crabbing → secondaries dry by the fire → increase depths reason → middle inspection → decatizing → preshrunk → one-tenth and examine; Increasing depths science and engineering skill is: will increasing dark auxiliary agent, to be mixed with concentration be the dark liquid of increasing of 40g/L, PH=5～6, and temperature is 40 ℃, adopts two to soak two methods of rolling, and pick-up is 75%, and baking and banking up with earth temperature is 115 ℃, and the time of baking and banking up with earth is 2 minutes; Increasing dark auxiliary agent is deep-dyeing agent FA-11; A crabbing is for adding setting agent 342 crabbings in three crabbing technologies, and the secondary crabbing is the clear water crabbing, and three crabbings are that clear water adds washing agent 150 crabbings.

Example 2

Produce super black wool worsted face fabric with 80S Australia hair wool tops, dyestuff is Mordant Black PV, and its consumption is 10% (o.w.f); Increasing dark auxiliary agent is deep-dyeing agent 2002P, and other production technology is with example 1.

Example 1 and example 2 are tested its numerical value such as following table:

Table 1

?	Example 1	Example 2
			Color depth (K/S value)	34?	32?
Dry fastness	5 grades	4 grades
			Fastness to wet rubbing	5 grades	4 grades
The crabbing fastness	4 grades	4 grades
			Perspiration fastness	5 grades	4 grades
Light fastness	5 grades	4 grades

Claims (2)

1. the production method of a super black wool worsted face fabric, it comprises the steps:

(1), wool tops is carried out the shrinkproof processing of wool mercerising;

(2), carry out the wool tops pre-treatment with levelling agent; With acid mordant dye wool tops is dyeed; Carry out wool tops dyeing post processing with washing agent and levelling agent;

(3), the wool tops after the dyeing through recombing, spin, weave and back arrangement increases the depths science and engineering and plants and make super black wool worsted face fabric;

Back arrangement increase depths science and engineering skill for singe → baking → ripe the repairing of a crabbing → braying → secondary crabbing → once → brush cut → three crabbing → secondaries dry by the fire → increase depths reason → middle inspection → decatizing → preshrunk → one-tenth and examine; Increasing depths science and engineering skill is: will increasing dark auxiliary agent, to be mixed with concentration be the dark liquid of increasing of 35～45g/L, PH=5～6, and temperature is 30～45 ℃, adopts two to soak two methods of rolling, and pick-up is 70～80%, and baking and banking up with earth temperature is 110～130 ℃, and the time of baking and banking up with earth is 2～3 minutes.

2. production method according to claim 1 is characterized by that a crabbing is for adding the setting agent crabbing in three crabbing technology, and three crabbings are for adding the washing agent crabbing.