CN1665479A - Cosmetic compositions with hydroxy amine salts of malonic acid - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions with hydroxy amine salts of malonic acid Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1665479A
CN1665479A CN03816020XA CN03816020A CN1665479A CN 1665479 A CN1665479 A CN 1665479A CN 03816020X A CN03816020X A CN 03816020XA CN 03816020 A CN03816020 A CN 03816020A CN 1665479 A CN1665479 A CN 1665479A
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acid
composition
malonate
weight
ester
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J·R·法里尼尔兹
P·E·米纳
M·C·切尼
J·H·张
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Unilever PLC
Unilever NV
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Unilever NV
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362Polycarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biomedical Technology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is provided which includes as an active material a salt of malonic acid in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the composition exhibits a Flexibility Value greater than 1 according to the Porcine Skin Test.

Description

The cosmetic composition that contains malonate
The present invention relates to contain the application of the cosmetic composition of malonate and these compositionss to the control signs of skin aging.
Soft, submissive and flexible skin has tangible physical attractiveness, is the characteristic of normally functioning epidermis.Along with people's skin wore out because of the age, epidermis can fold, protuberance or wrinkling, forms wrinkle.These indicate that the forfeiture of young outward appearance and declaration changed to old age.Be exposed under the excessive sunlight and can quicken this transition process.In addition, be called cuticular epidermis skin be exposed to cold weather or with can become after detergent or solvent too much contacts drying with easily peel off.Cause losing of moisture of skin, skin begins soft, the submissive and flexible feature of forfeiture.
Emollient has been used to softening wrinkling or exsiccant skin in the past as fat, phospholipid and sterol.These emollient are just partly effective as the Therapeutic Method of the bad skin of situation.
It is for some time known that hydroxy carboxylic acid is used to improve the quality of human skin.Alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds is more much effective than emollient commonly used undoubtedly.
United States Patent (USP) 4,424,234 (Alderson etc.) disclose admixture Alpha-hydroxy capric acid and Alpha-hydroxy is sad or the compositions of the treatment skin of its mixture, the pH value of said composition is generally 2 to 4 less than 7.Yu and Van Scott have a lot of patents in this field.For example, United States Patent (USP) 4,105,782 have reported that the amine salt of alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds or ammonium salt are used for the treatment of acne or dandruff.At United States Patent (USP) 4,105, in 783 and 4,197,316, propose with these compounds for treating dry skins.United States Patent (USP) 4,234,599 disclose alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds, their ester or the application of amine salt in the treatment keratosis.Recently, United States Patent (USP) 5,091,171 discuss the potent agent that these chemical compounds change as control senile plaque, wrinkle and the skin relevant with the age.
Though hydroxy carboxylic acid can be very useful, found this material can stimulate the people when local application repeatedly skin aspect treatment.This stimulation can be from the sensation twinge, itch and scorching hot to skin rubefaction with peel off.Reason and the reduction of the pH in the human skin horny layer with these stimulations interrelates.Think that low pH has caused bonded disturbance between keratinocyte, produce deleterious dermoreaction, the individuality of sensitive skin is especially arranged for some.
The functionalized organic acid of non-Alpha-hydroxy is disclosed in the cosmetics document.For example, United States Patent (USP) 5,641,495 (Jokura etc.) disclose ceramide or the false vitalility is combined through the salt of amide, dicarboxylic acids and dicarboxylic acids.The embodiment example has illustrated the sodium salt and the potassium salt of succinic acid.Also can use low-molecular-weight dicarboxylic acids, for example malonic acid.Though produced excellent insulation effect and followed the zest of generation little, do not proposed to cause the aging sign of skin softness, compliance and pliability forfeiture with this system control.Improve in these fields and to be still the needs that consumer is not satisfied.
Therefore, advantage of the present invention is the cosmetic components that provides new in compositions, and they can control even eliminate aged sign effectively, particularly improves flexibility, compliance and the pliability of skin.
So, according to a first aspect of the invention, provide a kind of make-up composition, wherein comprise:
(1) a kind of malonate of about 0.0001%-30% weight;
(2) a kind of cosmetics acceptable carrier of about 1%-99.9% weight;
Wherein said composition in Corii Sus domestica test the pliability value greater than 1.
In addition, also provide a kind of method of controlling aging sign, this method comprises:
A kind of make-up composition is provided, wherein comprises:
(1) by about 0.0001% a kind of malonate to about 30% weight;
(2) by about 1% a kind of cosmetics acceptable carrier to about 99.9% weight;
Wherein said composition in Corii Sus domestica test the pliability value greater than 1; With
On skin, use this make-up composition.
We find that now the salt of malonic acid is effective as alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds at least aspect the control signs of skin aging.More particularly, the salt of malonic acid has significant activity improving the flexibility of skin, compliance and flexibility.
Characteristics of the present invention are that malonate is given the present composition have 1 the positive pliability value of being at least with respect to water in Corii Sus domestica test, preferably are at least 1.1.One Tai Re-mechanical analysis instrument is used in this test, applies the 20g load to the Corii Sus domestica disk of a diameter 1cm, is the instantaneous deflection of unit record with mm.Water is sample in contrast.Before handling and handle once, measured in 24 hours after secondary and three times the skin sample.These processing comprise to the various compositionss of dermal administration 150 μ l 5 minutes, remove not drip washing then.Then at 21 ℃ be lower than under 10% the relative humidity and carry out drying.
Data transaction comprises the ratio of the deflection value determining to use for three times after the subject composition and the deflection value of water quality standard sample.This ratio is defined as the pliability value.
When constituting described salt, can use cation miscellaneous as the anionic counter ion counterionsl gegenions of malonate.Malonate can be half neutralization or complete neutral malonic acid or their mixture, represents with general formula (I) with (II):
[HO 2CCH 2CO 2] -[X] +?????????? +[X] 2[O 2CCH 2CO 2] -2
I???????????????????????????????????II
Wherein X is a cation counterbalancing ion.
Suitable cation counterbalancing ion comprises alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal ions.Representational example comprises cationes such as lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, ammonium and composition thereof.
Not only inorganic and organically cation also can use, particularly suitable be to have about 1-1000, preferably 1-20, the preferably quaternized azonia of 3-12 carbon atom.Example is by the deutero-cation of amine, and these amine comprise triethanolamine, diethanolamine, Propanolamine, monoethanolamine, methylamine, ethamine, propylamine, 2-aminopropane., butylamine, isobutyl amine, tert-butylamine, amylamine, isobutylcarbylamine, hexylamine, cyclohexylamine, Aminocyclopentane, norborneol amine, octylame, ethylhexylamine, nonyl amine, decyl amine, ketopyrrolidine, aminoacid (lysine, arginine, alanine, glutamic acid, histidine, glycine), 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, dimethylethanolamine, polymine, three (methylol) aminomethane and composition thereof.
Most preferably by ammonia, the deutero-cation of dimethylethanolamine and three (methylol) aminomethane.Comprise malonic acid ammonium, Diammonium malonate, malonic acid dimethylethanolamine, malonic acid two (dimethylethanolamine), malonic acid three (methylol) methane ammonium salt and malonic acid two [three (methylol) methane amine] by the deutero-typical malonate of these preferred materials.
The quantity of malonate can be make-up composition weight about 0.0001% to about 30%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%.
The present invention can use the mixture of salt I, salt II or these salt as active component.When using mixture, single salt I can be from about 1000: 1 to about 1: 1000, preferably from about 10: 1 to about 1: 500, more preferably from about 2: 1 to about 1: 200, preferably from about 1: 1 to about 1: 20 with the mol ratio of two salt II.
The present composition also comprises the cosmetics acceptable carrier.The quantity of carrier can from 1% to 99.9%, preferably from about 70% to about 95%, and preferably from about 80% to about 90%.Among available carrier, comprise water, emollient, fatty acid, aliphatic alcohol, humidizer, thickening agent and their mixture.Carrier can be aqueous, anhydrous or emulsion.Preferred said composition is aqueous, especially the emulsion of the water of W/O or O/W or treble W/O/W type and oil.If there is water to exist, its amount is for about 5% to 95%, be preferably about 20% to 70%, preferably from 35% to about 60% weight.
Emollient can play the cosmetics acceptable carrier.They can be the forms of silicone oil, synthetic acid and hydrocarbon.The quantity of emollient can be preferably about 1% to about 50% weight from about 0.1% to about 95%.
Silicone oil can be divided into volatile-type and non-volatile type.Here used " volatilization " speech is meant those materials that have measurable vapour pressure at ambient temperature.Volatile silicone oils is preferably selected from and contains 3 to 9, the annular (annular dimethyl polysiloxane) or the straight chain polydimethylsiloxane of preferred 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
The fixedness silicone oil that can be used as the emollient materials use comprises poly-alkylsiloxane, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane and polyether siloxane copolymer.Can be used for nonvolatile basically poly-alkylsiloxane of the present invention and comprise that for example 25 ℃ viscosity is about 5 * 10 -6To 0.1m 2The polydimethylsiloxane of/s.The preferred fixedness emollient that can be used in the present composition comprises that 25 ℃ viscosity is about 1 * 10 -5To about 4 * 10 -4m 2The polydimethylsiloxane of/s.
Another kind of non-volatile siloxane is emulsifying and non-emulsive silicone elastomer.The representative of this class is to can be used as the polydimethyl siloxanes/polydimethy siloxanes vinyl acetate cross linked polymer that Dow Corning 9040, General Electric SFE 839 and Shin-Etsu KSG-18 buy.Also can use siloxane wax, for example Silwax WS-L (the polydimethylsiloxane laurate that contains polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chain).
Belong to having of esters emollient:
(1) alkenyl esters or the Arrcostab of the fatty acid of 10-20 carbon atom are arranged.The example comprises neopentanoic acid Isoeicosane ester, the different nonyl ester of different n-nonanoic acid, tetradecylic acid oil base ester, stearic acid oil base ester and oleic acid oil base ester.
(2) ether-ether, for example fatty acid ester of ethoxylized fatty alcohol.
(3) ester of polyhydroxy-alcohol: ethylene glycol one and di fatty acid ester, diethylene glycol one and di fatty acid ester, Polyethylene Glycol (200-6000) one and di fatty acid ester, propylene glycol one and di fatty acid ester, polypropylene glycol 2000 monoleates, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearates, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glycerol one and di fatty acid ester, polyglycereol polyglycerol fatty acid ester, the ethoxylated glycerol monostearate, the 1,3 butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butanediol distearate, the polyoxyethylene polyols fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester are gratifying polyol esters.Useful especially is C 1-C 30Tetramethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane and the DOPCP of acid.
(4) wax ester, for example Cera Flava, spermaceti and three behenic acid glycerol ester type waxes.
(5) sterol ester, the example has cholesterol aliphatic ester.
(6) sugar ester of fatty acid, for example Ju behenic acid sucrose ester and poly-cotton seed acid sucrose ester.
Suitable hydrocarbon as the cosmetics acceptable carrier comprises vaseline, mineral oil, C 11-C 13Isoparaffin, poly alpha olefin, the especially 2-Methylpentadecane that can buy as Permethyl101A from Presperse Inc..
There is the fatty acid of 10-30 carbon atom also to be suitable as the cosmetics acceptable carrier.The example of this class is n-nonanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxy stearic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, ricinoleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid.
The aliphatic alcohol that 10 to 30 carbon atoms are arranged is another kind of suitable cosmetics acceptable carrier.The example of this class has stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and spermol.
The wetting agent of polyhydric alcohol type can be used as the cosmetics acceptable carrier and uses.Typical polyhydric alcohols comprises glycerol, poly alkylene glycol and preferable alkylidene polyol and derivant thereof, comprise propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, isoprenediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and their mixture.The consumption of wetting agent can be composition weight 0.5% to 50% preferably between 1% to 15%.
Thickening agent can be used as the part of the cosmetics acceptable carrier of the present composition.Typical thickeners comprises crosslinked acrylate, and (for example Carbopol 982 ), (for example Carbopol 1382 for the acrylate of hydrophobically modified ) cellulose derivative and natural gum.Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxy methocel are arranged in available cellulose derivative.Be fit to the mixture that natural gum of the present invention comprises pawl ear locust beam gum, xanthan gum, sclerotium polysaccharide, carrageenin, pectin and these glue.
Also can use inorganic object as thickening agent, particularly clay, for example bentonite and hectorite, pyrogenic silica and silicate, for example Magnesiumaluminumsilicate (Veegum ).
The consumption of thickening agent can from 0.0001% to 10%, and normally from 0.001% to 1%, from 0.01% to 0.5% weight preferably.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can be any form.These forms comprise that astringent, cream, bobbin type preparation, rod, mousse, aerosol and non-aerosol spray and fabric (for example supatex fabric) apply agent.
Can also there be surfactant in the present composition.If surfactant is when existing, and its total concentration can be from about 0.1% to about 40%, preferably from about 1% to about 20%, and preferably about 1% of composition weight to about 5%.Surfactant can be selected from anion, nonionic, cation and amphoteric surfactant.
Particularly preferred non-ionic surface active agent is by C 10-C 20The surfactant that aliphatic alcohol or sour hydrophobe and every mole of hydrophobe 2-100 moles of ethylene oxide or expoxy propane condensation form is with the C of 2-20 mole alkylene oxide condensation 2-C 10Alkyl phenol, one and di fatty acid ester of ethylene glycol, glycerine monofatty ester, anhydrous sorbitol one and two C 8-C 20Fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan ether, and their mixture.Alkyl polyglycoside and saccharide aliphatic series amide (for example methyl glucose amide) also are suitable non-ionic surface active agents.
The preferred anionic surfactants surfactant comprises soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonate, alkyl sulfate and sulfonate, alkylbenzenesulfonate, alkyl and dialkyl group sulfosuccinate ester, C 8-C 20Acyl isethinate, C 8-C 20Alkyl ether phosphate, C 8-C 20Sarcosinate and their mixture.
Can also contain the sunscreen actives thing in the present composition.Particularly preferably be for example following material: the p-methoxycinnamic acid ethyl hexyl ester (can be used as Parsol MCX Obtain), 1-[4-(1, the 1-dimethyl ethyl) phenyl]-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione (Avobenzene) (can be used as Parsol 1789 Obtain) and benzophenone-3 (being also referred to as Oxybenzone, the hydroxyl methoxy benzophenone).Can use inorganic sunscreen, for example microfine titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, polyethylene and various other polymer.When adding sunscreen, its quantity generally is from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 2% to 20% from 4% to 10% weight preferably.
Preferably mix antiseptic in the present composition to prevent having harmful microbial growth.The traditional preservatives that is applicable to the present composition is the Arrcostab of P-hydroxybenzoic acid.Recently other antiseptic that comes into operation comprises hydantoin derivatives, propionate, and multiple quaternary ammonium compound.The cosmetic chemistry man is familiar with suitable antiseptic, and selects to satisfy corrosion-resistanting test and product stability is provided according to routine.
Particularly preferred antiseptic is phenyl phenol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, imidazolidinyl urea, dehydro sodium acetate and benzyl alcohol.Should consider the possible incompatibility between other composition in the purposes of compositions and this antiseptic and the Emulsion when selecting antiseptic.The consumption of antiseptic is preferably 0.01% to 2% of composition weight.
Can comprise vitamin in the present composition.The representative example of vitamin is vitamin A (retinol), vitamin B 2, vitamin B 6, vitamin C, vitamin E and biotin.Also can use the derivant of vitamin.For example vitamin C derivatives comprises VC-IP, phosphoric acid ascorbic acid magnesium salt and ascorbic acid glucosides.The derivant of vitamin E comprises Tocopherol acetate ester, Palmic acid Renascin and linoleic acid Renascin.DL-pantothenylol and derivant also can be used.When adding vitamin in the present composition, its total amount can from 0.001% to 10%, and preferably from 0.01% to 1%, from 0.1% to 0.5% weight preferably.
Another kind of available material is an enzyme, for example oxidase, protease, lipase and composition thereof.Particularly preferably be superoxide dismutase, Brooks Campany (U.S.) with the title of Biocell SOD in market sale.
Can add skin lightening agent in the present composition.Representative substances is an intacellin, lactic acid, and nicotiamide, arbutin, kojic acid, ferulic acid, resorcinol and derivant comprise the resorcinol that 4-replaces, and their mixture.The consumption of these reagent can be composition weight about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%.
Can add desquamation promoter.The example is alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids.Term " acid " means and not only comprises free acid, but also comprises its salt and C 1-C 30The alkyl or aryl ester, and form the lactone that ring-type or straight chain lactone structure produce by dehydration.Representational acid is hydroxyacetic acid, lactic acid and malic acid.Salicylic acid is the representative of beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids.If these materials exist, its quantity can be about 0.01% to about 15% of composition weight.
In the present composition, can randomly comprise herbaceous plant extract miscellaneous.The example has green tea, Chamomile, Radix Glycyrrhizae and their extract mixtures.These extracts can be water solublity or water-insoluble, are loaded in respectively in hydrophilic or the hydrophobic solvent.Water and ethanol are preferably to extract solvent.
Can also comprise for example thioctic acid, dimension formyloxy trimethyl silane (can obtain trade name Silcare 1M-75), dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and their mixture from ClariantCorp..Ceramide (comprising ceramide 1, ceramide 3, ceramide 3 B and ceramide 6) and false vitalility can use in a lot of compositionss of the present invention or need not through amide.These amount of substances can be from about 0.000001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.0001% to about 1% weight.
In the present composition, can also contain coloring agent, flavouring agent, opacifier and abrasive material.The consumption of these materials all can be about 0.05%-5%, preferably between 0.1% to 3% weight.
" contain " speech and mean and be not limited to described subsequently key element, but comprise the unspecified key element that functional importance is either large or small.In other words, listed step, key element or selective thing safety not necessarily.When using " comprising " or vocabulary such as " having ", these terms and above definition " containing " is equivalent.
Embodiment
Except in operation and comparative examples, perhaps in clear and definite indicated situation, the numeral of all the indicator substance quantity among the present invention should be understood to and adds " pact " word.
Following examples will more fully illustrate embodiment of the present invention.Here reach all umbers, percent and ratio in the claims, unless otherwise indicated, all refer to weight.
Embodiment 1
A kind of typical cosmetic cream of the present invention is summarized in the Table I.
Table I
Composition Weight %
The A phase
Water Surplus
The EDTA disodium salt ????0.05
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ????0.15
Magnesiumaluminumsilicate ????0.60
Triethanolamine ????1.20
The B phase
Xanthan gum ????0.20
Natrosol 250HHR (ethyl cellulose) ????0.50
Butanediol ????3.00
Glycerol ????2.00
The C phase
Stearoyl dilactic acid sodium ????0.10
Glyceryl monostearate ????1.50
Stearyl alcohol ????1.50
Palmic acid isooctadecanol ester ????3.00
Silicone oil ????1.00
Cholesterol ????0.25
Span60 ????1.00
Yoshinox BHT ????0.05
Vitamin e acetate ????0.01
The PEG-100 stearate ????2.00
Stearic acid ????3.00
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate ????0.10
Parsol?MCX ????2.00
Three (caprylic/capric) glyceride ????0.50
Hydroxycaprylic acid ????0.01
C12-15 alkyl caprylate ????3.00
The D phase
Malonate ????3.00
The E phase
Vitamin A palmitate ????0.10
Bisabolol ????0.01
Retinyl acetate ????0.01
Spice ????0.03
Retinol 50C ????0.02
Embodiment 2
Below a kind of local liquid foundation articles for use of using of water/oil type that use malonate of the present invention have been described in the table 2.
Table II
Composition Weight %
The A phase
Annular dimethyl polysiloxane ????9.25
Octanoic acid, hexadecyl ester ????2.00
The polydimethylsiloxane that contains polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chain ????20.00
The B phase
Talcum ????3.38
Pigment (ferrum oxide) ????10.51
Spheron L-1500 (silicon dioxide) ????0.50
The C phase
Synthetic wax Durachem 0602 ????0.10
Behenic acid eicosane ester ????0.30
The D phase
Annular dimethyl polysiloxane ????1.00
Three (hydroxy stearic acid) glyceride ????0.30
The E phase
Laureth-7 ????0.50
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate ????0.25
The F phase
Spice ????0.05
The G phase
Water Surplus
The malonic acid ammonium ????3.00
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ????0.12
Propylene glycol ????8.00
Nicotiamide ????4.00
Glycerol ????3.00
Sodium chloride ????2.00
Dehydro sodium acetate ????0.30
Embodiment 3
Following Example has been an admixture a kind of protective skin cream of malonate of the present invention.
Table III
Composition Weight %
Glycerol ????6.93
Nicotiamide ????5.00
Malonic acid dimethyl ethanol ammonium ????5.00
Permethyl?101A 1 ????3.00
Sepigel?305 2 ????2.50
Q2-1403 3 ????2.00
The isostearic acid isopropyl ester ????1.33
Arlatone?2121 4 ????1.00
Spermol CO-1695 ????0.72
SEFA?Cottonate 5 ????0.67
Tocopherol acetas ????0.50
Pantothenylol ????0.50
Stearyl alcohol ????0.48
Titanium dioxide ????0.40
The EDTA disodium salt ????0.10
Glydant?Plus 6 ????0.10
The PEG-100 stearate ????0.10
Stearic acid ????0.10
Purified water Surplus
12-Methylpentadecane, Presperse Inc., South plainfield, NJ
2Polyacrylamide (with) C 13-14Isomerization alkanes (with) Laureth-7, SeppicCorporation, Fairfield, NJ
3Polydimethylsiloxane (with) the poly dimethyl silanol, Dow Corning Corp.Midland, MI
4Anhydrous sorbitol monostearate and coconut oil sucrose ester, ICI Americas Inc., Wilmington, DE
5Fatty acid cane sugar ester
6Dimethyl dihydroxymethyl hydantoin (with) iodine propinyl butyl carbamate, Lonza Inc., Fairlawn, NJ
Embodiment 4
Preparation in the Table IV is an example of powder cosmetic composition of the present invention.
Table IV
Composition Weight %
Polysilicone-11 ????27.5
Annular dimethyl polysiloxane ????54
Vaseline ????11
Malonic acid three (methylol) first ammonium ????7
The polydimethylsiloxane that contains polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chain ????0.5
Embodiment 5
A kind of relative anhydrous composition of the present invention is shown in Table V.
Table V
Composition Weight %
Annular dimethyl polysiloxane ????80.65
Polydimethylsiloxane ????9.60
Squalane ????6.00
Isostearic acid ????1.90
Borage oil ????0.90
Malonic acid lithium (50% aqueous solution) ????0.50
The retinol cetylate ????0.25
Ceramide 6 ????0.10
Tocopherol ????0.10
Embodiment 6
Listed a kind of pressurized package type foaming abluent of the present invention that is fit in the Table VI.
Table VI
Composition Weight %
Oleum Helianthi ????20.00
Maleation Oleum Glycines ????5.00
The siloxanes urethanes ????1.00
Oleic acid polyglycereol (4) ester ????1.00
C14-16 alkene sulfonic acid sodium ????15.00
Laurel ether sodium sulfate (25% activity) ????15.00
Cocamidopropyl betaine ????15.00
DC?1784 (silicone oil emulsion 50%) ????5.00
Polyquaternium-11 (polyquaternary ammonium salt that dimethyl sulfate and vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer reaction generates) ????1.00
Malonic acid two (dimethyl ethanol ammonium) ????1.00
Water Surplus
Utilize concentrate in the Table VI of 92% weight and 8% propellant to prepare a kind of aerosol, this propellant is the mixture of dimethyl ether, iso-butane and propane.
Embodiment 7
Can also prepare a kind of cohesiveness cosmetic patch according to the present invention.With 30 gram 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomers in 20 gram distilled water with 1% aqueous solution of 5 gram methylene-bisacrylamides with the preparation cohesive hydrogel, activate this solution with 0.4% persulfuric acid Mg catalyst then.With catalyst with after hydrogel solution mixes soon, add the solution of 0.1 gram malonic acid ammonium in 5 ml waters.The solution that forms is coated in 50/50 blend of polypropylene and hydrophilic polyester and makes its curing.Final sedimentary hydrogel is warm 24 hours in 40 ℃ in hot-air oven.The final water content of this hydrogel is 50%.On this cohesive hydrogel, place a polystyrene lining.
Embodiment 8
Introduce a kind of according to the disposable individual wiping cloth product of just throwing away that uses up of the present invention.Prepare heavy 1.8 grams, be of a size of 15 * 20 centimetres the non-woven wiping cloth of 70/30 polyester/staple fibre.The compositions of on this wiping cloth, summarizing in the Table VII below the dipping.
Table VIII
Composition Weight %
Malonic acid magnesium ????7.50
Glycerol ????2.00
Hexanediol ????2.00
Decoyl imidazoline oxalic acid disodium ????1.00
Gluconolactone ????0.90
The silicone oil microemulsion ????0.85
Radix Hamamelidis Mollis ????0.50
The PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated ????0.50
Spice ????0.20
Vitamin e acetate ????0.001
Water Surplus
Embodiment 9
Various carboxylates are estimated to determine their responses in the Corii Sus domestica test.Operate a Perkin-Elmer heat-mechanical analysis instrument (TMS-1 type), 20 gram loads are placed the center of the Corii Sus domestica disk of 1 centimetre of diameter.Immediate record is the skin deflection of unit with mm.Each sample size of handling is 6 Corii Sus domesticas.Water in contrast.Each sheet is as internal contrast.Each sample is measured in 24 hours dry backs before processing and after handling for, two and three time.The each processing comprises to skin and applies 150 μ l substances solution 5 minutes, removes then but not drip washing.Drying condition is that 21 ℃ and humidity are lower than 10%.Outcome record is in Table VIII.
Table VIII
The material of estimating The pliability value
Water (reference standard) ????1.00
Succinate * ????0.85
Hydroxyl acetate * ????0.85
Malonate ** ????1.36
*Ammonium salt
*The dimethyl ethanol ammonium salt
From the result obviously as seen, malonate makes skin have more pliability significantly.On the contrary, succinate and hydroxyl acetate make the obvious hardening of skin.The effect of hydroxyl acetate and succinate is similar statistically.These results show that malonate can improve flexibility, compliance and pliability with the compositions that contains malonate.
Table I X has write down the pliability value of cosmetic cream paste formulation (the using different D phase active matters) mensuration that Table I is described in detail.Cream for the malonate preparation should be worth all higher than the cream of base material cream or hydroxyl acetate preparation.This result has confirmed that the use malonate has obtained more soft, submissive and flexible skin.
Table I X
The material of estimating * The pliability value
Water (reference standard) ????1.00
Base material cream (salt-free) ????0.89
Base material cream (hydroxyl acetate) ????0.84
Base material cream (malonate) ????1.12
*Salt in the bracket refers to the D phase active matter among the embodiment 1 (Table I)
More than explanation and embodiment example have illustrated selected embodiment of the present invention.In view of those skilled in the art can associate its variants and modifications, so they entirely within the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. cosmetic composition, wherein contain:
(1) by about 0.0001% a kind of malonate to about 30% weight;
(2) by about 1% a kind of cosmetics acceptable carrier to about 99.9% weight;
Wherein said composition demonstrates the pliability value greater than 1 in the Corii Sus domestica test.
2. the compositions of claim 1, wherein malonic acid exists with half form neutral and complete neutral acid respectively, and the mol ratio of the two is about 1000: 1 to about 1: 1000.
3. the compositions of claim 2, wherein mol ratio is about 2: 1 to about 1: 200.
4. the compositions of aforementioned each claim, wherein this salt has a cation as the malonate counter ion counterionsl gegenions, and it is a kind of inorganic cation, is selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, ammonium and composition thereof.
5. the compositions of aforementioned each claim, wherein the cation as the malonate counter ion counterionsl gegenions is the organic cation that 2-1000 carbon atom arranged, and is selected from polymine, triethanolamine, diethanolamine, Propanolamine, monoethanolamine, methylamine, ethamine, propylamine, 2-aminopropane., butylamine, isobutyl amine, tert-butylamine, amylamine, isobutylcarbylamine, hexylamine, cyclohexylamine, Aminocyclopentane, norborneol amine, octylame, ethylhexylamine, nonyl amine, decyl amine, ketopyrrolidine, aminoacid (lysine, arginine, alanine, glutamic acid, histidine, glycine), 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, dimethylethanolamine, three (methylol) aminomethanes and their mixture.
6. the cosmetic patch or the wiping cloth product that contain each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 5.
7. method of controlling aging sign comprises:
Form a kind of cosmetic composition, wherein contain:
(1) by about 0.0001% a kind of malonate to about 30% weight;
(2) by about 1% a kind of cosmetics acceptable carrier to about 99.9% weight;
Wherein the pliability value of said composition in the Corii Sus domestica test is greater than 1; This cosmetic composition is applied on the skin.
8. the method for claim 6, wherein controlled aging sign is flexibility, compliance and pliability.
CN03816020XA 2002-05-29 2003-05-22 Cosmetic compositions with hydroxy amine salts of malonic acid Pending CN1665479A (en)

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