CN1391461A - Hair conditioning composition comprising hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose - Google Patents

Hair conditioning composition comprising hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose Download PDF

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CN1391461A
CN1391461A CN 99817070 CN99817070A CN1391461A CN 1391461 A CN1391461 A CN 1391461A CN 99817070 CN99817070 CN 99817070 CN 99817070 A CN99817070 A CN 99817070A CN 1391461 A CN1391461 A CN 1391461A
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hair
alkyl
cationic
acid
formula
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阿南瑟纳拉扬·文卡特斯瓦兰
杨建中
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Procter and Gamble Ltd
Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

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Abstract

Disclosed is a hair conditioning composition comprising by weight: (a) from about 0.1% to about 5% of a hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose having formula (1): wherein R1 is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbons, n is an integer from 1 to about 2000; x is 0 or an integer from 1 to about 6; y is the level of cationic substitution from 0.1 to 1.0; and having a molecular weight of no more than about 1,000,000; (b) from abuot 0.01% of about 20% of a conditioning agent; and (c) an aqueous carrier, wherein the hair conditioning coposition increase bulk hair volume by a Volume Index of 20 or greater as measured by Instron Volume Measurement Method.

Description

The Wo 2008069000 that contains the cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of Wo 2008069000 that contains the cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified.
Background of invention
Owing to contact with surrounding and owing to the scalp sebum secreted, people's hair is understood dirty.Hair is dirty to make it have dirty sense, and from outside watch not attractive in appearance yet.Dirty hair needs often hair washing.
Hair washing can be cleaned hair by removing excessive dirt and sebum.But hair washing can make hair be in humidity, the fluffy and disorderly and difficult usually state of putting in order.In case the hair drying, owing to removed its natural oil and other natural conditioning ingredients and the composition of preserving moisture, hair often is in drying, coarse, matt or curling state.In addition, also cause hair to have higher electrostatic level when drying, this just influences combing and causes hair to be in the state that is commonly referred to " hair disperses ", perhaps produces unwelcome " bifurcated " phenomenon, especially for long hair.
Develop the whole bag of tricks and come conditioning hair.These methods comprise after hair washing uses hair conditioner, and for example leave (leave-on) and washing-off type (rinse-off) product clean and the hair conditioning shampoo of conditioning hair with identical product to attempting.
Though the easy and convenient shampoo of conditioner is liked containing by some consumer, more conventional conditioner product is liked by the consumer of significant proportion.These products are independent of hair washing, normally are applied to hair after hair washing.Care composition can be rinse-off products or leave product, can also be emulsion, cream, gel, spray and mousse.Like this class consumer of conventional conditioner product to pay attention to higher conditioning effect, perhaps according to the situation of hair or the convenience that how much changes the conditioning amount of hair.
A kind of conventional method that can be hair and provide conditioning effect is to adopt hair conditioner, as cationic surfactant and polymer, hard fat chemical compound, low melting point oil, polysiloxane compound and composition thereof.Known that the overwhelming majority can provide various conditioning effects in these conditioners,, but hair is forced down and hair is clamminess or has produced greasy or the wax sense as the Electrostatic Control of wetness sensation, flexibility and hair.
The Wo 2008069000 that comprises above-mentioned conditioner can provide the conditioning effect such as soft and wetness sensation on dried hair, but it can make hair force down equally.The hair that forces down can produce the outward appearance of the loose hair volume (bulk hair volume) of reduction.For the consumer that wants hair full (volume-up), as has the consumer of thin hair, the effect that they do not want hair to force down.When being used for herein, term " hair is full " also is not equal to hair disperse (fly-away hair).It is because static content increases that hair disperses, and to show as on the whole only be that the volume of minute quantity hair increases, and this phenomenon is not expected to take place.On the other hand, the hair of this paper employing is full increases relevant with the integral body of hair volume.Consumer with thin hair wishes that hair is full, can control undesirable hair again simultaneously and disperse.
Can be known that by top said content people still need the Wo 2008069000 that provides such, it can make hair full, can not reduce conditioning effect again simultaneously, as flexibility, wetness sensation and the control of dispersing.
Prior art does not all provide whole advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect.
Summary of the invention
The present invention relates to a kind of Wo 2008069000, by weight, it comprises:
(a) about 0.1%-about 5% has the cationic cellulose of the hydrophobically modified of following general formula:
R in the formula 1It is alkyl with about 8-22 carbon atom; N is the integer of 1-about 4000; X is 0 or the integer of 1-about 6; Y is the cation substitution level, is 0.1-1.0; Its molecular weight is no more than about 1,000,000;
(b) conditioner of about 0.01%-about 20%; And
(c) a kind of aqueous carrier,
Wherein this Wo 2008069000 can make loose hair volume increase by 20 or higher bulk index when measuring with the Instron stereometry.
To those skilled in the art, by reading the disclosure of the specification, of the present invention those will become apparent with further feature, aspect and advantage.
Summary of drawings
Required protection domain though claims of the present invention particularly point out and know, it is believed that statement, will understand the present invention better by reading following preferred description, non-limiting embodiments and combining with accompanying drawing, wherein:
Fig. 1 is the side view of Instron stereometry equipment preferred embodiment.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Required protection domain although claims of the present invention particularly point out and know, should believe that following explanation will understand the present invention better.
Except as otherwise noted, herein all percentage number averages with the weighing scale of whole composition. Except as otherwise noted, all ratios are weight ratio. Except as otherwise noted, the percentage of all each compositions, ratio and content is all take the actual content of composition as the basis herein, be not included in the commercially available prod can with these solvents that become to be grouped together, filler or other material.
Herein, " comprise or comprise " refer to add other step and other composition that does not affect final result. This term comprise " by ... form " and " basically by ... composition ".
All documents of quoting as proof are incorporated herein by reference. Quoting and not meaning that of any document admits that it is with respect to any decision of the present invention as the prior art existence.
The cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention comprises a kind of cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified. The cationic cellulose of this hydrophobically modified can make loose hair volume increase, and can not reduce conditioning effect simultaneously, as the control of dispersing. The cationic cellulose of this hydrophobically modified is included in the hair setting composition with antistatic additive, film forming agent or hair fixative typically. The result is surprisingly found out that, when comprising the cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified in Wo 2008069000, can increase significantly loose hair volume.
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention comprises about 0.1%-5% by weight, is preferably about 0.2-1.0%, more preferably the cationic cellulose of the hydrophobically modified of about 0.25%-0.5%.
The cationic cellulose that is applicable to the hydrophobically modified among the present invention is those celluloses with following general formula:
R wherein 1For having about 8-22 carbon atom, be preferably the alkyl of about 10-18 carbon atom; N is that 1-is about 4,000, is preferably about 100-1,000 integer; X be 0 or 1-about 6, be preferably the integer of about 1-3; Y is the cation substitution level, is 0.1-1.0.It is about 1,000,000 that the molecular weight that is applicable to the cationic cellulose of the hydrophobically modified among the present invention must be no more than, be preferably about 250,000-500,000.
The cationic cellulose of the hydrophobically modified that can buy from the market comprises for example epoxide reactive polymerization tetravalence ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl-cellulose and lauryl dimethyl amine-replacement, in (CTFA) industry, be meant Polyquatemium24, it is from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ is USA) with trade name LM-200 Obtain.
The cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified of the present invention and some conditioner compatibilities uses like this, as dystectic fatty compound, low-melting fatty compound, cationic surfactant, cationic polymer and polysiloxane compound, they are included in the care composition, so that required conditioning and matter to be provided.Therefore, the cationic cellulose of these hydrophobically modifieds can be incorporated in the multiple Wo 2008069000, and with these conditioners, except conditioning effect is provided, beyond flexibility, wetness sensation and the control of dispersing, has also increased loose hair volume.
Conditioner
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention comprises the conditioner of about 0.01%-20% by weight.This conditioner provides multiple conditioning effect with the cationic cellulose of this hydrophobically modified, as flexibility, wetness sensation and the control of dispersing.Preferred situation is, it is that 25 ℃ or higher hard fat chemical compound, fusing point are lower than low melting point oil, cationic surfactant, cationic polymer, polysiloxane compound, cationic silicone emulsion of 25 ℃ and composition thereof that this conditioner is selected from fusing point.Preferred situation is that this conditioner comprises the cationic silicone emulsion that comprises polysiloxane compound and cationic surfactant.Preferred situation is, this conditioner comprises hard fat chemical compound and cationic surfactant, and it provides gel network with aqueous carrier.
The hard fat chemical compound
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention preferably includes the hard fat chemical compound.This hard fat chemical compound provides a kind of gel network with cationic surfactant and aqueous carrier, and it is suitable for providing various conditioning effects, as smooth feeling and the softness on dried hair, wetness sensation and the control of dispersing on wet hair.
The fusing point that is applicable to hard fat chemical compound of the present invention is 25 ℃ or higher, and is selected from aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid, fatty alcohol derivative, derivative of fatty acid and composition thereof.This area the professional should be appreciated that, disclosed chemical compound may belong in the more than one classification in some cases in this joint of description, and for example some fatty alcohol derivative can also classify as derivative of fatty acid.In any case specified classification is not to mean this particular compound is limited, but for the ease of clssification and designation.In addition, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that number and position according to two keys, and the length of side chain and position, some chemical compounds with certain required carbon atom may have and are lower than 25 ℃ fusing point.This low-melting compound is not included in this joint.The limiting examples of high melting compound is found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993 and CTFACosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
The hard fat chemical compound that is included in the compositions is preferably about 0.1%-15% by weight, and more preferably about 0.5-10% most preferably is about 1%-7%.
Be applicable to that aliphatic alcohol of the present invention is to have about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 16 aliphatic alcohol to about 22 carbon atoms.These aliphatic alcohol are saturated, and can be straight or branched alcohol.Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols comprises spermol, stearyl alcohol, docosanol and their mixture.
Be applicable to fatty acid of the present invention be have about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, 16 fatty acids more preferably from about to about 22 carbon atoms.These fatty acids are saturated, and can be straight or branched acid.Also comprise the binary acid, ternary acid and other polyprotic acid that satisfy requirement of the present invention.The present invention also comprises the salt of these fatty acids.Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids comprises lauric acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, decanedioic acid and their mixture.
But be applicable to fatty alcohol derivative of the present invention and derivative of fatty acid comprise alkyl ether, the aliphatic alcohol of the alkyl ether of aliphatic alcohol, oxyalkylated aliphatic alcohol, oxyalkylated aliphatic alcohol ester, have fatty acid ester, fatty acid that hydroxyl replaces and their mixture of chemical compound of the hydroxyl of esterification.The non-limitative example of fatty alcohol derivative and derivative of fatty acid comprises material, as the methyl stearyl ether; The ceteth series compound, to ceteth-45, they are glycol ethers of spermol as ceteth-1, wherein numeric character is represented the quantity of existing ethylene glycol part; Stearyl polyoxyethylene ether series compound, as steareth-1 to 10, it is the glycol ether of steareth alcohol, wherein numeric character is represented the quantity of existing ethylene glycol part; Ceteareth1 to ceteareth-10, they are glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, and promptly containing mainly is the fatty alcohol mixture of spermol and stearyl alcohol, and wherein numeric character is represented the quantity of existing ethylene glycol part; The C of ceteth, above-mentioned steareth and ceteareth chemical compound 1-C 30Alkyl ether; The polyethylene glycol oxide ether of docosanol; Ethyl stearte, the stearic acid cetyl, hexadecanoic acid cetyl ester, the stearic acid stearyl ester, myristic acid myristyl ester, the polyoxyethylene cetyl ethers stearate, polyethylene glycol oxide stearyl ether stearate, polyethylene glycol oxide lauryl ether stearate, the monostearate glycol ester, monostearate polyethylene glycol oxide ester, distearyl acid polyethylene glycol oxide ester, the monostearate propylene glycol ester, the distearyl acid propylene glycol ester, distearyl acid trihydroxymethylpropanyl ester, the stearic acid sorbitan ester, the stearic acid polyglycerol esters, glyceryl monostearate, distearin, glyceryl tristearate, and their mixture.
The hard fat chemical compound of preferably highly purified unification compound.The unification compound that is selected from the pure fat alcohol of pure spermol, stearyl alcohol and tadenan is highly preferred.In this article, so-called " pure " is meant that the purity of chemical compound is at least about 90%, is preferably at least about 95%.These high-purity unification compounds provide good flushable property when rinsing out said composition in consumer.
Be applicable to that the hard fat chemical compound that can buy from the market among the present invention comprises: spermol, stearyl alcohol and docosanol, its commodity are called KONOL series, and (Osaka Japan) obtains by Shin Nihon Rika; And NAA series, (Tokyo Japan) obtains by NOF; Pure docosanol, its commodity are called 1-DOCOSANOL, and (Osaka Japan) obtains by WAKO; Various fatty acids, its commodity are called NEO-FAT, and (Chicago Illinois USA) obtains by Akzo; Commodity are called HYSTRENE, and (Dublin Ohio USA) obtains by Witco Corp.; And trade name DERMA, (Genova Italy) obtains by Vevy.
Low melting point oil
The fusing point that is applicable to the low melting point oil among the present invention is lower than 25 ℃, and the low melting point oil that is included in the said composition is preferably about 0.1%-10%, more preferably about 0.25-6%. by weight
Be applicable to that low melting point grease separation of the present invention is from having the hydrocarbon of about 10-40 carbon atom, the unsaturated fatty alcohol with about 10-30 carbon atom, the unsaturated fatty acid with about 10-30 carbon atom, derivative of fatty acid, fatty alcohol derivative, ester oil, poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil and composition thereof.
Be applicable to aliphatic alcohol of the present invention be have about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, 16 those aliphatic alcohol more preferably from about to about 22 carbon atoms.These aliphatic alcohol are undersaturated, and can be straight or branched alcohol.Suitable aliphatic alcohol comprises for example oleyl alcohol, isooctadecanol, tridecanol, decyl tetradecyl alchohol and octyl group dodecyl alcohol.These alcohol for example can be obtained by ShinnihonRika.
Be applicable to that low melting point oil of the present invention comprises pentaerythritol ester oil, trihydroxy methyl ester oil, poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil, citric acid ester oil, glyceride oil and composition thereof, open and be applicable to that the ester oil among the present invention is water-fast.The term " water-insoluble " that this paper adopts is meant to be gone up water insoluble at 25 ℃ of following chemical compounds substantially; When with chemical compound to be higher than 1.0% (weight), when preferably mixing with water with the concentration that is higher than 0.5% (weight), this chemical compound temporarily is scattered in the water, forms unsettled colloid, then rapidly and separated form water be biphase.
Those chemical compounds that to can be used for pentaerythritol ester oil of the present invention be following formula:
R in the formula 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-.Preferred situation is R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, the saturated or unsaturated alkyl of about 22 carbon atoms of about 8-.Preferred situation is R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be defined as and make that the molecular weight of this chemical compound is about 800-1200.
Those chemical compounds that to can be used for trihydroxy methyl ester oil of the present invention be following formula:
Figure A9981707000112
R in the formula 11Be alkyl with about 30 carbon atoms of 1-, and R 12, R 13And R 14Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-.Preferred situation is R 11Be ethyl and R 12, R 13, and R 14Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, the saturated or unsaturated alkyl of about 22 carbon atoms of 8-.Preferred situation is R 11, R 12, R 13And R 14Be defined as and make that the molecular weight of this chemical compound is about 800-1200.
Useful especially pentaerythritol ester oil of the present invention and trihydroxy methyl ester oil comprise pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate, tetramethylolmethane four oleates, trimethylolpropane tris isostearate, trimethylolpropane tris oleate and their mixture.Such chemical compound be can trade name KAK P.T.I. and KAK T.T.I. available from Kokyo Alcohol and with trade name PTO and ENUJERUBU TP3SO product available from Shin-nihon Rika.
Can be used for poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil of the present invention and be derived from having about 16 carbon atoms of about 6-, the preferred poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil of the 1-olefinic monomer of about 12 carbon atoms of about 6-.The limiting examples that can be used for preparing the 1-olefinic monomer of poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil comprises 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecylene, tetradecene, cetene, branched chain isomer for example 4-methyl-1-pentene and their mixture.The preferred 1-olefinic monomer that can be used for preparing poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil is 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecylene, tetradecene, cetene and their mixture.Be applicable to that poly alpha olefin oil viscosity of the present invention is about 1-35,000 centistoke, molecular weight are about 200-60,000, and polydispersity is no more than about 3.
Molecular weight is at least about 800 poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil and is applicable to the present invention.This high-molecular weight poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil is considered to and can provides longer wetness sensation to hair.Molecular weight is lower than about 800 poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil and is applicable to the present invention.This low-molecular-weight poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil is considered to and can provides smooth, bright and clean sensation to hair.
Be specially adapted to poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil of the present invention and comprise poly decene, its commodity are called PURESYN6, and number-average molecular weight is about 500; Commodity are called PURESYN 100, and number-average molecular weight is about 3000; And commodity PURESYN 300 by name, number-average molecular weight is about 6000, is obtained by Mobil Chemical Co..
Can be used for citric acid ester oil of the present invention is that molecular weight is at least about 500 following formula: compound:
R in the formula 21Be OH or CH 3COO, and R 22, R 23And R 24Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-.Preferred situation is R 21Be OH and R 22, R 23And R 24Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 22 carbon atoms of 8-.Preferred situation is R 21, R 22, R 23And R 24Be defined as and make the molecular weight of this chemical compound be at least about 800.
The useful especially citric acid ester oil of the present invention comprises: the citric acid three different cetyl esters that derive from the commodity CITMOL316 by name of Bernel; Derive from the citric acid three iso stearyl esters of the commodity PELEMOL TISC by name of Phoenix; Citric acid trioctylphosphine dodecyl ester with the commodity that derive from Bernel CITMOL 320 by name.
Can be used for glyceride oil of the present invention is that molecular weight is at least about 500 following formula: compound:
R in the formula 41, R 42And R 43Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-.Preferred situation is R 41, R 42And R 43Independently of one another for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, the alkaryl of 8-22 carbon atom.Preferred situation is R 41, R 42And R 43Be defined as and make the molecular weight of this chemical compound be at least about 800.
The useful especially glyceride oil of the present invention comprises: glycerol three isostearates that derive from the commodity SUNESPOL G-318 by name of Taiyo Kagaku; Derive from the triolein of the commodity CITHROL GTO by name of Croda Surfactants Ltd.; Derive from the commodity EFADERMA-F by name of Vevy, or derive from the linolein of the commodity EFA-GLYCERIDES by name of Brooks.
Cationic surfactant
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention preferably includes a kind of cationic surfactant.This cationic surfactant provides a kind of gel network with hard fat chemical compound and aqueous carrier, and it is suitable for providing various conditioning effects, as smooth feeling and the softness on dried hair, wetness sensation and the control of dispersing on wet hair.
Be applicable to that cationic surfactant of the present invention is that the known and content in said composition of those of ordinary skills is preferably about 0.1%-10% by weight, more preferably about 0.25%-8% most preferably is about 0.5-3%.
In this cationic surfactant, be applicable to that of the present invention is those cationic surfactants corresponding to following general formula (I):
R in the formula 1, R 2, R 3And R 4In at least one is selected from the aliphatic group with 8-30 carbon atom or has aromatic series, alkoxyl, polyoxyalkylene, alkyl amido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or the alkaryl that is up to about 22 carbon atoms; Remaining R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be independently selected from aliphatic group or have aromatic series, alkoxyl, polyoxyalkylene, alkyl amido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or the alkaryl that is up to about 22 carbon atoms with about 22 carbon atoms of 1-; And X is a kind of one-tenth salt anionic, as is selected from halogen (as chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycol acid radical, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, sulfonate radical, sulfate radical, alkyl sulfate and alkyl azochlorosulfonate.Except carbon atom and hydrogen atom, aliphatic group can also contain ehter bond and such as other group of amino.For example about 12 carbon atoms of long-chain aliphatic group or more high-grade those can be saturated or undersaturated.R preferably 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be independently selected from C 1-C 22Alkyl.The non-limitative example that is applicable to cationic surfactant of the present invention comprises the material with following CTFA name: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methyl ester sulfate radical, quaternium-24 and composition thereof.
In the middle of the cationic surfactant of general formula (I), preferably in molecule, comprise the surfactant that at least one has the alkyl chain of at least 16 carbon atoms.The non-limitative example of these preferred cationic surfactants comprises: INCROQUAT TMC-80 ECONOL TM22 is for example obtained by Croda with trade name INCROQUATTMC-80; And obtain by Sanyo Kasei with trade name ECONOL TM22; The cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is for example obtained by Nikko Chemicals with trade name CA-2350; The hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; dialkyl group (14-18) alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; two tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides; dihydro tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; VARISOFT TA100; two cetyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides; two (docosyl/Semen arachidis hypogaeae acyl group) alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; two (docosyl) alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; stearyl dimethyl benzene ammonio methacrylate; stearyl propylene glycol phosphate ester alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; stearyl acylamino-propyl-dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride; stearyl acylamino-propyl-dimethyl (myristyl acetas) ammonium chloride, and N-(stearyl gallbladder carbamyl ylmethyl) pyridinium chloride.
The cationic surfactant that preferably also has hydrophilic replacement, wherein at least one substituent group contains one or more as substituent group or as aromatic series, ether, ester, amide or amino part, the wherein R of connecting key in the group chain 1-R 4In the group at least one contains one or more hydrophilic segments, and they are selected from alkoxyl (C preferably 1-C 3Alkoxyl), polyoxyalkylene (C preferably 1-C 3Polyoxyalkylene), alkyl amido, hydroxyalkyl, Arrcostab and their mixture.Preferred situation is that the cationic conditioning surfactant of this hydrophilic replacement contains the nonionic hydrophilic segment that 2-about 10 is positioned at above-mentioned scope.The cationic surfactant of preferred hydrophilic replacement comprises those surfactants with following general formula (II)-(VIII):
Figure A9981707000141
N is that 8-is about 28 in the formula, and x+y is that 2-is about 40, Z 1Be short-chain alkyl, be preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably methyl, perhaps (CH 2CH 2O) zH wherein x+y+z is up to 60, and X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic;
Figure A9981707000151
M is 1-5 in the formula, R 5, R 6And R 7In one or more be C independently 1-C 30Alkyl, remaining is CH 2CH 2OH, R 8, R 9And R 10In one or two is C independently 1-C 30Alkyl, and remaining is CH 2CH 2OH, and X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic;
Figure A9981707000152
In the formula, following definitions is independently for general formula (IV) and (V), Z 2Be alkyl, be preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl, methyl more preferably, and Z 3Be the short chain hydroxyalkyl, be preferably methylol or hydroxyethyl, p and q are the integer of 2-4 (comprising 2 and 4) independently, are preferably 2-3 (comprising 2 and 3), more preferably 2, and R 11And R 12For that replace or unsubstituted alkyl, be preferably C independently 12-C 20Alkyl or alkenyl, and X is as above said one-tenth salt anionic;
R in the formula 13Be alkyl, be preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably methyl; Z 4And Z 5Be short-chain hydrocarbon group independently, be preferably C 2-C 4Alkyl or alkenyl, ethyl more preferably, a are that 2-is about 40, be preferably about 7-30, and X are aforesaid one-tenth salt anionics;
Figure A9981707000154
R in the formula 14And R 15Be C independently 1-C 3Alkyl is preferably methyl; Z 6Be C 12-C 22Alkyl, alkyl carboxyl or alkylamidoalkyl, and A is a kind of protein, is preferably collagen, keratin, milk proem, fibroin, soybean protein, aleuronat or its hydrolysis and forms; And X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic;
B is 2 or 3 in the formula, R 16And R 17Be C independently 1-C 3Alkyl is preferably methyl, and X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic.The non-limitative example that is applicable to the cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement of the present invention comprises the material with following CTFA name: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, the collagen of quaternium-76 hydrolysis, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, the collagen of quaternium-79 hydrolysis, the keratin of quaternium-79 hydrolysis, the milk proem of quaternium-79 hydrolysis, the fibroin of quaternium-79 hydrolysis, the soybean protein of quaternium-79 hydrolysis, and the aleuronat of quaternium-79 hydrolysis, quaternium-80, quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84 and composition thereof.
The cationic surfactant of highly preferred hydrophilic replacement comprises dialkyl group acylamino-ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl amine salt; dialkyl group acylamino-ethyl dimethyl amine salt; two alkanoyl ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl amine salt; two alkanoyl ethyl dimethyl amine salt and composition thereof; for instance; can buy from the market with following trade name: VARISOFT110; VARIQUAT K1215 and 638 (deriving from Witco Chemical); MACKPRO KLP; MACKPRO WLW; MACKPRO MLP; MACKPRO NSP; MACKPRO NLW; MACKPRO WWP; MACKPRO NLP; MACKPRO SLP (deriving from McIntyre); ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25; ETHOQUAD S/25 and ETHODUOQUAD (deriving from Akzo), DEHYQUAT SP (deriving from Henkel) and ATLAS G265 (deriving from ICI Americas).
The primary, the salt of the second month in a season and uncle's fatty amine also is suitable cationic surfactants.The alkyl of this class amine preferably has about 12-22 carbon atom, and can be substituted or not replacement.Particularly suitable be amidoamines with following general formula:
R 1CONH(CH 2) mN(R 2) 2
R in the formula 1Be C 11-C 24The residue of fatty acid, R 2Be C 1-C 4Alkyl, m are the integer of 1-4.
Be applicable to that preferred amidoamines of the present invention comprises the amino propyl group dimethylamine of stearoyl, the amino propyl group diethylamine of stearoyl, the amino ethyl diethylamine of stearoyl, the amino ethyl dimethylamine of stearoyl, palmityl aminopropyl dimethylamine, palmityl aminopropyl diethylamine, palmityl amino-ethyl diethylamine, palm fibre palmityl amino-ethyl dimethylamine, docosane acylamino-propyl group dimethylamine, docosane acylamino-propyl group diethylamine, docosane acylamino-ethyl diethylamine, docosane acylamino-ethyl dimethylamine, Semen arachidis hypogaeae acylamino-propyl group dimethylamine, Semen arachidis hypogaeae acylamino-propyl group diethylamine, Semen arachidis hypogaeae acylamino-ethyl diethylamine, Semen arachidis hypogaeae acylamino-ethyl dimethylamine and composition thereof; The more preferably amino propyl group dimethylamine of stearoyl, the amino ethyl diethylamine of stearoyl and composition thereof.
Amidoamines among the present invention preferably is used in combination with the acid that is selected from following acid: L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, tartaric acid and composition thereof; Preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid and composition thereof.Preferred situation is that amidoamines is about 1 with the mol ratio of acid: 0.3-1: 1, more preferably about 1: 0.5-1: 0.9.
Cationic polymer
This cationic polymer can be about 0.1%-10% by weight, more preferably about 0.25%-8%, the amount that most preferably is about 0.5-3% are included in the compositions.
Describe below and be applicable to cationic polymer of the present invention.Term " polymer " used herein should both comprise the material that is produced by a kind of monomer polymerization, also comprised material (being copolymer) that is produced by two kinds of monomer polymerizations or the material that is produced by multiple monomer polymerization.
Cationic polymer is preferably water-soluble cationic polymer.Term " water-soluble cationic polymer " is meant the polymer that has enough dissolubility in water, to be under 0.1% aqueous solution (distilled water or the equivalent) condition at 25 ℃, concentration, forms naked eyes and looks it is settled solution basically.Preferred polymer should fully dissolve, and forms the solution of substantial transparent, and concentration is 0.5%, and more preferably 1.0%.
This cationic polymer among the present invention has at least about 5,000 usually, is typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 1,000 ten thousand weight average molecular weight.Preferably, its molecular weight is about 100,000 to about 200 ten thousand.This cationic polymer has the cation nitrogen moiety usually, as quaternary ammonium or cation amino part and composition thereof.
This cationic charge density preferably is at least about 0.1 milliequivalent/gram (meq/g), more preferably is at least about 1.5 milliequivalent/grams, more preferably is at least about 1.1 milliequivalent/grams again, most preferably is at least about 1.2 milliequivalent/grams.The cationic charge density of this cationic polymer can be measured according to the Kjeldahl method.It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the charge density that contains amino polymer will change with pH and amino isoelectric point, IP.Under the pH that expection is used, charge density should be in above-mentioned limited field.
Any anionic counter-ion can be used for this cationic polymer, and condition is to satisfy the water-soluble standard.Suitable counter ion counterionsl gegenions comprise halogenide (for example Cl, Br, I or F, preferably Cl, Br or I), sulfate radical and methylsulfate.Should not absolute for example, therefore can also use other counter ion counterionsl gegenions.
The cation nitrogen moiety is present on the part of the whole monomeric unit of cationic hair conditioning polymer as substituent group usually.Therefore, this cationic polymer can comprise the copolymer, ter-polymers of monomeric unit that quaternary ammonium or cationic amine replace and other non-cationic unit (being referred to herein as the spacer monomers unit) etc.These polymer are known in the art, and at CTFA CosmeticIngredient Dictionary, the third edition, editor Estrin, Crosley and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982) in can find multiple polymers.
Suitable cationic polymers comprises the vinyl monomer that for example has cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional group and the copolymer of water solublity spacer monomers, and described water solublity spacer monomers is for example acrylamide, Methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl group acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methyl acrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidone.The monomer that this alkyl and dialkyl group replace preferably has C 1-C 7Alkyl, more preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl.Other suitable interval monomer comprises vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (being made by the polyvinyl acetate hydrolysis), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
According to the concrete kind and the pH value of compositions, cationic amine can be primary, the second month in a season or tertiary amine.Usually, preferred secondary amine and tertiary amine, especially preferred is tertiary amine.
The vinyl monomer that amine replaces can the polymerization of amine form, then randomly can change into ammonium by quaterisation.Also can be after forming polymer to quaternized like the amine.For instance, tertiary amine functional group can react and quaternized by the salt with general formula R ' X, and R ' is a short-chain alkyl in the formula, is preferably C 1-C 7Alkyl, more preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl, and X is a kind of anion, and it and quaternised ammonium form a kind of water miscible salt.
Suitable cation amino and quaternary ammonium monomer comprise for example by propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, the methacrylate dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, acrylic acid one alkylaminoalkyl, methacrylate one alkylaminoalkyl, trialkyl isobutene. acyl-oxygen base alkylammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, the vinyl compound that the diallyl quaternary ammonium salt replaces, with have the ring-type cation and contain for example pyridine of azo-cycle, imidazoles, with the vinyl quaternary ammonium monomer of quaternized ketopyrrolidine, for example alkyl vinyl imidazoles, alkylvinylpyridines, alkyl vinyl ketopyrrolidine salt.These monomeric moieties are preferably low alkyl group, as C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably C 1And C 2Alkyl.Be applicable to that the vinyl monomer that amine of the present invention replaces comprises propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, methacrylate dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylamide and dialkyl aminoalkyl MAAm, wherein alkyl group is preferred for C 1-C 7Alkyl, more preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl.
Cationic polymers hereof can comprise the mixture by the monomeric unit of the monomer of amine and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted and/or compatible spacer monomer derived.
Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymer for example comprises: the copolymer of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazole salt (as villaumite) is (industrial by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, " CTFA ", be called Polyquaternium-16), as by BASFWyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) those materials (as LUVIQUAT FC 370) of buying with the LUVIQUAT trade name; The copolymer of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and methacrylate dimethylamino ethyl ester (being called Polyquaternium-11 by CTFA) industrial, as by Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) those materials (as GAFQUAT755N) of buying with the GAFQUAT trade name; The polymer that contains cation diallyl quaternary ammonium for example comprises the copolymer (being called Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7 at industrial (CTFA)) of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer and acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride; And the inorganic acid salt with amino-Arrcostab of the homopolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid of 3-5 carbon atom and copolymer, as United States Patent (USP) 4,009, described in 256, this patent is incorporated herein as a reference.
Other day ionomer that is suitable for comprises polysaccharide polymer, for example cationic cellulose derivative and cationic starch derivative.
Be applicable to that cationic polysaccharide polymer of the present invention comprises those materials with following general formula:
Figure A9981707000191
A is the anhydroglucose residue in the formula, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residue, and R is alkylidene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyl alkylidene, or its combination, R 1, R 2And R 3Be alkyl, aryl, alkaryl, aralkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxy aryl independently, each group contains and is up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms in each cationic moiety (is R 1, R 2And R 3In the total number of carbon atoms) be preferably about 20 or still less, and X is as above said anionic counter-ion.
Can be as the cationic cellulose of cationic polymer with above said material be different down at title " cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified ".Be applicable to that cationic cellulose of the present invention can (Edison, NJ be USA) with its polymer JR from Amerchol Corp. And LR Series polymer (salt as the epoxide reactive hydroxyethyl-cellulose that replaces with trimethyl ammonium is called Polyquaternium10 at industrial (CTFA)) and buying.
Operable other cationic polymer comprises the cationic guar gum derivant, as Rhaball Gum CG-M 8M (with Jaguar R series available from Celanese Corp.).Other material comprises the cellulose ether (described in U.S. patent 3962418, the document is incorporated herein by reference) that contains quaternary nitrogen and the copolymer (described in U.S. patent 3958581, the document is incorporated herein by reference) of etherified cellulose and starch.
Polysiloxane compound
Can comprise polysiloxane compound in the compositions, its content is preferably about 0.1%-10% by weight, and more preferably about 0.25%-8% most preferably is about 0.5%-3%.
Polysiloxane compound of the present invention can comprise volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble polysiloxanes conditioner.The soluble polysiloxane compound that is meant can be miscible to form part homophase mutually with the carrier of compositions.Insoluble be meant polysiloxanes form separate with carrier, mutually discontinuous, for example be the emulsion or the form of suspension of polysiloxanes droplet.Polysiloxane compound among the present invention can make by conventional polyreaction or emulsion polymerization.
Be applicable to that the preferred viscosity of polysiloxane compound of the present invention is about 1 under 25 ℃, 000-2,000,000 centistoke, more preferably about 10,000-1,800,000 centistokes, most preferably be about 25,000-1.500,000 centistoke.This viscosity can pass through glass capillary tube viscometer, according to Dow CorningCorporate Test Method CTM0004, said method is measured in 20 days July in 1970, the document is incorporated herein as a reference and all.Can prepare high-molecular weight polysiloxane compound by emulsion polymerization.
Be applicable to siloxanes that polysiloxane compound of the present invention comprises that the poly-aryl siloxanes of poly-alkyl, the siloxanes of polyalkylene oxides-modification, polyorganosiloxane resin, amino replace and composition thereof.This polysiloxane compound is preferably selected from siloxanes, polyorganosiloxane resin of the poly-aryl siloxanes of poly-alkyl, polyalkylene oxides-modification and composition thereof, more preferably is selected from the poly-aryl siloxanes of one or more poly-alkyl.
Be applicable to that the poly-aryl siloxanes of poly-alkyl of the present invention comprises those materials with following array structure (I):
R is an alkyl or aryl in the formula, and x is about 7-8,000 integer.The group of this polysiloxanes chain end of " A " expression sealing.Can have any structure at the alkyl or aryl (R) of siloxanes chain substitution or the alkyl or aryl (A) that on the siloxane chain end, replaces, as long as the polysiloxanes that is obtained at room temperature remains fluid, be dispersible, be non-stimulated, nontoxic, harmless in the time of on being applied to hair, can be compatible with other composition in the said composition, be that chemical property is stable under regular service conditions and storage requirement, and can be deposited on the hair and conditioning hair.The non-limiting examples of suitable group comprises hydroxyl, methyl, methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group and aryloxy group.Two R groups on silicon atom can be represented identical or different group.Preferably, two identical groups of R group representative.The suitable R group comprises methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, aminomethyl phenyl and phenyl methyl.Preferred polysiloxane compound is polydimethylsiloxane, poly-di-ethyl siloxane and PSI.The polydimethylsiloxane that also is called simethicone (dimethicone) is especially preferred.Spendable poly-alkylsiloxane comprises for example polydimethylsiloxane.For instance, these polysiloxane compounds can be bought with its ViscasilR and SF 96 series and be bought with its Dow Corning 200 series by Dow Corning by General Electric Company.For example, be applicable to the present invention as SF 1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluids or from Dow Corning as the fluidic PSI of 556 cosmetics-stages from GeneralElectric Company.
What equally preferably be used to improve the hair gloss characteristic is that refractive index is about 1.46 or higher, particularly is about 1.52 or the polysiloxane compound of higher height arylation, for example poly-ethylsiloxane of height phenylating.When using these high refractive index polysiloxane compounds, should with its with spreading agent for example surfactant or polyorganosiloxane resin as described below mixes, with surface tension and its film forming ability of raising that reduces material.
The poly-alkylsiloxane of the another kind of particularly suitable is a polysiloxanes natural gum.Term used herein " polysiloxanes natural gum " is meant 25 ℃ of its viscosity more than or equal to 1,000, the polysiloxane of 000 centistoke.Will be appreciated that polysiloxanes natural gum as herein described also can have some overlapping with above-mentioned polysiloxane compound.This is overlapping not to be to the restriction of these materials arbitrarily.Polysiloxanes natural gum is described by Petrarch, and other document comprises United States Patent (USP) 4,152,416 (people such as Spitzer, on May 1st, 1979 authorized) and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York:Academic Press 1968.Describe the General Electric SiliconeRubber Product Data Sheets SE 30 in addition of polysiloxanes natural gum, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76.All these documents all are incorporated herein as a reference and in full.Molecular weight that should " polysiloxanes natural gum " is generally about more than 200,000, and about 200,000-1 is in 000,000 scope usually.Example comprises polydimethylsiloxane, poly-(dimethyl siloxane ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane diphenyl siloxane ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer and composition thereof.
For instance, the siloxanes that is applicable to polyalkylene oxides-modification of the present invention comprises the polypropylene oxide modification and the polydimethylsiloxane polyethylene glycol oxide modification.The level of oxirane and expoxy propane should be enough low, not influence the dispersive property of polysiloxanes.These materials also are called simethicone polyol (dimethicone copolyols).
Polyorganosiloxane resin as highly cross-linked polysiloxanes system also is applicable to the present invention.Described crosslinkedly introduce by trifunctional and four functional silanes being mixed with simple function or difunctional silane or the two at the polyorganosiloxane resin production period.As well known in the art, will change according to the concrete silane unit that mixes in the polyorganosiloxane resin in order to obtain the required crosslinking degree of polyorganosiloxane resin.Generally speaking, thus have the trifunctional of enough levels and four functional silane monomeric units, and the crosslinked silicone materials that makes that they can form hard or firm film when becoming dry that therefore has enough levels can be considered polyorganosiloxane resin.The ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom is the indication of crosslinked level in the concrete polysiloxanes material.The ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom is at least about 1.1 polysiloxanes material polyorganosiloxane resin normally of the present invention.Preferred situation is that the ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom is at least about 1.2: 1.0.The silane that is used to prepare polyorganosiloxane resin comprise monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, a phenyl-, diphenyl-, aminomethyl phenyl-, a vinyl-and methyl ethylene chlorosilane and tetrachloro silicane, wherein methyl substituted silane is the most frequently used.Preferred resin is provided as GE SS4230 and SS4267 by General Electric.The polyorganosiloxane resin that can buy from the market normally provides with dissolved form in low viscosity volatility or nonvolatile polysiloxane fluid.Can be used for polyorganosiloxane resin of the present invention should provide with such dissolved form and be incorporated in the present composition, and this it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that.Be not bound by theory, it is believed that polyorganosiloxane resin can strengthen the deposition of other polysiloxane compound on hair, and can strengthen the gloss of hair with high refractive index volume.
Spendable other polyorganosiloxane resin is the polyorganosiloxane resin powder, and for example the CTFA name is called the material of poly methyl silsesquioxane (polymethylsilsequioxane), and this material can be from ToshibaSilicones with Tospearl TMBought.
According to the known shorthand naming system of those skilled in the art (" MDTQ " nomenclature), can differentiate polyorganosiloxane resin more conveniently.Under this naming system, polysiloxanes is described according to the various siloxanyl monomers unit of the formation polysiloxanes that exists.In brief, symbol M is represented simple function unit (CH 3) 3SiO) 5D represents difunctionality unit (CH 3) 2SiO; T represents trifunctional units (CH 3) SiO 1.5Q represents four functional unit SiO 2The unit symbol of band apostrophe, as M ', D ', T ' and the substituent group of Q ' expression except that methyl, and must specifically define each situation.Typical alternative substituent group comprises the group such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl etc.Under the MDTQ system, with the symbol subscript of various unitary total numbers or its meansigma methods in the expression polysiloxanes, or the mol ratio of the different units that shows as concrete indicated ratio and binding molecule scale has been finished the description of silicone materials.In polyorganosiloxane resin, with respect to D, D ', M and/or M ', the T of higher relative molecular weight, Q, T ' and/or Q ' mean higher crosslinked level.Yet as mentioned above, total crosslinked level can also be represented by the ratio of oxygen and silicon.
Can be used for preferred polyorganosiloxane resin of the present invention is MQ, MT, MTQ, MDQ and MDTQ resin.Therefore, preferred polysiloxanes substituent group is a methyl.Especially preferred is MQ resin, wherein M: the Q ratio is about 0.5: about 1.5: 1.0 of 1.0-, and the mean molecule quantity of this resin is about 1000-about 10,000.
Be applicable to that the amino siloxanes that replaces of the present invention comprises those chemical compounds by following array structure (II) expression:
R is CH in the formula 3Or OH, x and y are the integers that depends on molecular weight, mean molecule quantity is approximately 5,000-10,000.This polymer also is called " amodimethicone ".
The siloxanes fluids that the amino that is suitable for replaces comprises those chemical compounds by general formula (III) expression:
(R 1) aG 3-a-Si-(-OSiG 2) n-(-OSiG b(R 1) 2-b)m-O-SiG 3-a(R 1) a????(III)
Wherein G is selected from hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C 1-C 8Alkyl, and methyl preferably; A represents 0 or the integer of 1-3, and is preferably 0; B represents 0 or 1, and is preferably 1; N+m is 1-2,000 number, and be preferably 50-150, and n can represent 0-1,999 number, and be preferably 49-149, and m can be 1-2,000, and be preferably the integer of 1-10; R 1For general formula is C qH 2qThe monoradical of L, wherein q is the integer of 2-8, and L is selected from following groups:
-N(R 2)CH 2-CH 2-N(R 2) 2
-N(R 2) 2
-N(R 2) 3A -
-N(R 2)CH 2-CH 2-NR 2H 2A -
R in the formula 2Be selected from hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, saturated hydrocarbyl, be preferably the alkyl group that contains 1-20 carbon atom, and A -The expression halide ion.
The particularly preferred siloxanes that replaces corresponding to the amino of general formula (III) is the polymer that has general formula (IV), is called " trimethylsilylamodimethicone ":
Figure A9981707000241
In this general formula, n and m select according to the molecular weight of required chemical compound.
Operable other amino siloxanes that replaces is represented with logical formula V:
R in the formula 3Expression has the univalence hydrocarbyl of 1-18 carbon atom, is preferably alkyl or alkenyl, as methyl; R 4The expression alkyl is preferably C 1-C 18Alkylidene or C 1-C 18, C more preferably 1-C 8Alkylidene oxygen; Q -Be halide ion, be preferably chlorine; R represents the average statistics value of 2-20, is preferably 2-8; S represents the average statistics value of 20-200, is preferably 20-50.Preferred this polymer is bought with trade name " UCAR SILICONE ALE 56. " by UnionCarbide.
Cationic silicone emulsion
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention preferably includes a kind of cationic silicone emulsion as a kind of conditioner, and it is applicable to increases loose hair volume, but can not worsen the conditioning beneficial effect, as the control of dispersing.The cationic silicone emulsion of this paper is a kind of pre-dispersed stable emulsion, and comprises cationic surfactant and polysiloxane compound.In comprising the Wo 2008069000 of this cationic silicone emulsion, this cationic surfactant is present in the polysiloxane emulsion, and not only in the body of said composition.
Being used for being included in the cationic surfactant of polysiloxane emulsion of this paper and polysiloxane compound is selected from title " cationic surfactant " and " polysiloxane compound " said material down.
This cationic silicone emulsion preferably includes about 1%-20% in its weight, but the polysiloxane compound of the cationic surfactant of 2%-8% and emulsifying amount more preferably from about, be preferably about 0.1%-70%, more preferably the polysiloxane compound of about 5%-60%.The content of polysiloxane compound in whole compositions is preferably about 0.1%-10% weight.
The content of this cationic silicone emulsion in compositions preferably can be about 0.1%-20%, 0.5%-5% weight more preferably from about.
This cationic silicone emulsion can be by any preparation of method easily known in the art.
For instance, this cationic silicone emulsion can by get polysiloxane polymer and in the presence of at least a emulsifying agent with mechanical means as stir, rock with homogenize with its emulsifying and mode by machinery emulsification prepares in water.This emulsifying agent can be included in the cationic surfactant in the cationic silicone emulsion, perhaps other suitable surfactant.Machinery emulsification may need to use two or more surfactants and two or more to use the mixed method of different surfaces activating agent.Can use two or more polysiloxane compounds, as the highly viscous polysiloxane compound and the polysiloxane compound of low viscosity.Particularly preferred being used for by the method that the machinery emulsification method obtains cationic silicone emulsion of the present invention is to adopt disclose 460 in Europe, and said method among the 683A, the document are as a reference and full text is incorporated herein.The preparation method that this list of references discloses emulsion is by polysiloxanes, water and the HLB value main non-ionic surface active agent for 15-19 is mixed to form first mixture, the cosurfactant that adds the HLB value be selected from nonionic, cation and anion surfactant and be 1.8-15 in this first mixture is to form second mixture, and this second mixture mixed under about 40 ℃ temperature, the particle size of the polysiloxanes in emulsion is lower than about 300nm.
Cationic silicone emulsion among the present invention can make by emulsion polymerization.Emulsion polymerisation process comprise get silicone monomers and/or oligomer and in the presence of a kind of catalyst with its emulsifying to form this polysiloxane polymer.Should be understood that unreacted monomer and oligomer are retained in the polysiloxane emulsion of emulsion polymerisation.It is particularly preferred that to be used for by a kind of method that emulsion polymerization obtains cationic silicone emulsion of the present invention be by at GB2, said method in 303,857, and the document is incorporated herein as a reference and in full.This list of references discloses a kind of method for preparing stable cationic silicone O/w emulsion, it comprises: 1) will be selected from the siloxanes of the oligomer that cyclic polysiloxanes oligomer, blended polysiloxane hydrolyzates, silanol stop, high-molecular weight polysiloxane polymer and functionalized polysiloxanes, with 2) water and 3) a kind of mixture of anion surfactant mixes; 4) this mixture heated was reached about 1 hour-5 hours to about 75 ℃-98 ℃ temperature; 5) mixture that will heat is cooled to 0 ℃-Yue 25 ℃ temperature and reached about 3 hours-24 hours; 6) add and to be selected from the compatible surfactant of HLB value greater than 9 non-ionic surface active agent; And 7) add a kind of cationic surfactant.
Preferably situation is, the particle size of the polysiloxane compound in this cationic silicone emulsion is less than about 50 microns, and more preferably about 0.2-2.5 micron most preferably is about 0.2-0.5 micron.The particle size that it is believed that polysiloxane compound influences the deposition of this polysiloxane compound on hair.The particle size of determining this polysiloxane compound according to the required deposition and the distributing homogeneity of this polysiloxane compound.
Measure the particle size of this polysiloxanes by the laser analysis device, this device adopts by CoulterElectronics, Inc. (Hialeah, FL, U.S.A.) the Coulter Model N4SD of Huo Deing adopts the spectrophotometer that contains laser 4mW He-Ne (632.8nm) and RS-232C series interface.Particle size is analyzed by unimodal matching method (unimodal fit).
Aqueous carrier
Compositions of the present invention comprises a kind of aqueous carrier.According to selecting the content and the kind of carrier with required other characteristic of the compatibility of other component and product.
Be applicable to that carrier of the present invention comprises the aqueous solution of water and low-grade alkane alcohol and polyhydric alcohol.Be applicable to that lower alkyl alcohol of the present invention is the monohydric alcohol with 1-6 carbon atom, more preferably ethanol and isopropyl alcohol.Be applicable to that polyhydric alcohol of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, hexanediol, glycerol and propylene glycol.
Preferred situation is that this aqueous carrier is water basically.The preferred deionized water that uses.According to the desirable characteristics of product, also can use the water of the natural origin that contains inorganic cation.It is about 95% that compositions of the present invention contains about 20%-usually, and preferably about 30%-is about 92%, more preferably from about the water of 50%-about 90%.
Supplementary element
Compositions of the present invention can comprise other supplementary element, they can according to the desirable characteristics of end product select by the person in the art and their suitable said compositions that makes in beauty treatment or aestheticly can accept or make them to have additional use beneficial effect more.The common independent consumption of other annexing ingredient of this class be about 0.001%-of composition weight about 10%, preferably up to about 5% weight.
Wide variety of other additional components can be formulated in the present composition.These components comprise: other conditioner, as the collagen (its commodity are called Peptein 2000, are obtained by Hormel) of hydrolysis; (commodity are called Emix-d to vitamin E, are obtained by Eisai; Pantothenylol (obtaining) by Roche; Pantothenylol base ether (obtaining) by Roche, mixture (the trade name Polawax NF of Polysorbate 60 and 16/stearyl alcohol (Cetearyl Alcohol), obtain by Croda Chemicals), glyceryl monostearate (obtaining) by Stepan Chemicals, hydroxyethyl-cellulose (obtaining) by Aqualon, hydrolysis of keratin, protein, plant extraction liquid, and nutritional labeling; Hair fixed polymer, for example both sexes fixed polymer, stationary cation polymer, anion fixed polymer, nonionic fixed polymer and silicone-grafted copolymer; Antiseptic, benzylalcohol for example, methyl butex, propylparaben and imidazolidinyl urea; PH regulator agent, for example citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; Salt, normally for example potassium acetate and sodium chloride; Coloring agent is as FD﹠amp; C or D﹠amp; Any in the C dyestuff; Hair oxidation (bleaching) agent, hydrogen peroxide for example, perborate and persulfate; Hair Reducing agent, for example thiol acetate; Spice; And chelating agen, for example disodiumedetate; Ultraviolet and infrared sunscreen and absorbent such as ethylhexyl salicylate, dandruff removing agent such as Zinc Pyrithione (zincpyridinethione); And fluorescent whitening agent, as the polystyrene Stilbene, triazine Stilbene, Hydroxycoumarin, aminocoumarin, triazole, pyrazoline, oxazole, pyrene, porphyrin, imidazoles and composition thereof.
Polyethylene Glycol also can be used as a kind of supplementary element.Particularly preferredly be applicable to that Polyethylene Glycol of the present invention is PEG-2M, the meansigma methods of n is about 2000 (PEG-2M is also with from the Polyox WSR  N-10 of Union Carbide and with PEG-2, and 000 is known) in the formula; PEG-5M, the meansigma methods of n is about 5000 (PEG-5M is also known with Polyox WSR  N-35 and Polyox WSR  N-80, and these two kinds of products are all from Union Carbide, and as PEG-5 in the formula, 000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000 known); PEG-7M, the meansigma methods of n is about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known with Polyox WSR  N-750, and it is from UnionCarbide) in the formula; PEG-9M, the meansigma methods of n is about 9,000 (PEG-9M is also known with Polyox WSR  N-3333, and it is from Union Carbide) in the formula; And PEG-14M, the meansigma methods of n is about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known with Polyox WSR  N-3000, and it is from Union Carbide) in the formula.
Polypropylene glycol also can be used as a kind of supplementary element.Be applicable to that polypropylene glycol of the present invention for example can buy from following company: from Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan) as New pol PP-2000, New polPP-4000, New pol GP-4000 and New pol SP-4000, from Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), from Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), from ArcoChemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA), from Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and from PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA).
The INSTRON stereometry
The Instron stereometry is to be used for loose hair volume by bulk index analyzing hair sample, and this index calculates by tension force merit (tensile work) when hair swatch being stretched and pass a looping pit.The tension force merit is directly proportional with loose hair volume, when the hair sample is stretched and passes the looping pit with fixed diameter, in order to increase the volume of loose hair, should need more tension force merit pro rata.
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention can make loose hair volume obtain obviously, increase significantly.The increase of this loose hair volume can be evaluated by bulk index, and the bulk index of Wo 2008069000 of the present invention is 20 or higher, is preferably 25 or higher, and more preferably 30 or higher, its assay method is as mentioned below.
When being used for herein, term " increase of loose hair volume " is not equal to hair and disperses.It is because static content increases that hair disperses, and shows as the volume that the minute quantity hair is only arranged in the hair integral body and increase, this phenomenon be do not expect.On the other hand, when being used for herein, loose hair volume increases relevant with the overall increase of hair volume, controls hair simultaneously and disperses.
Referring to accompanying drawing, Fig. 1 is the side view of preferred embodiment that is used for the present invention's Instron stereometry equipment.This Instron stereometry equipment is by the small-sized Instron tension test instrument MN 55 that has Merlin Profiler software (hereinafter be called the tension test instrument, by Instron Computer obtain), 1 and platform 6 form.This tension test instrument 1 comprises Instron measuring cell 2, line 3 and specimen holder 4.Specimen holder 4 is the clip or the anchor clamps that can stably hang hair swatch 7 typically.Platform 6 heart therein has looping pit 5.
This tension test instrument is measured tensile strength when hair swatch 7 passes looping pit 5 by stretching with Instron measuring cell 2 and line 3 and specimen holder 4.
Platform 6 has suitable height, thereby can not meet its bottom when making hair swatch 7 on being placed on specimen holder 4.Looping pit 5 has suitable diameter to measure tensile strength, and for instance, in this embodiment, the diameter of this looping pit is 35mm.
Preferably situation is, this equipment should be away from air-flow or other strength, and the latter can disturb hair swatch, and this equipment should be under the environment of controlled temperature and humidity, thereby guarantees that the result can repeat.
This hair swatch 7 typically by 20cm (8 gram) straight brown white people's toupees (hair switches) (by International Hair Importers ﹠amp; Products Inc., Bellerose, New York, USA obtains) form.But the beneficial effect that hair volume of the present invention increases is applicable to the hair swatch of all kinds.In addition, have been found that the result who obtains with hair swatch can compare with the result who is obtained between the human actual operating period.
Prepare hair swatch 7 according to following said mode:
For initial hair swatch
1) with the moistening hair swatch of 0g water, then 12% ammonium lauryl sulfate solution (0.1g/1g hair) is applied on the hair swatch, to remove the hair foul.
2) bubble 30 seconds and washed for 30 seconds (should use identical wash conditions, comprise water temperature, water velocity and hardness of water).
3) on this hair swatch, apply 12% ammonium lauryl sulfate solution (0.1g/1g hair).
4) bubble 30 seconds and 60 seconds of flushing hair swatch.
5) thoroughly combing is wet hair swatch to remove entanglement.
6) remove excessive water and make hair swatch be the flat square shape from hair swatch is crowded.
7) hair swatch is placed in 25 ℃/50% relative humidity room, and dry 24 hours.
For treated hair swatch
1) with the moistening hair swatch that obtains above of 0g water, then every 1g hair applies the shampoo of 0.1ml sample.
2) bubble 30 seconds and washing for 30 seconds.
3) per 1 gram hair applies the shampoo of 0.1ml sample.
4) bubble 30 seconds and washing for 60 seconds.
5) in order to nurse one's health, per 1 gram hair applies 0.1ml sample conditioner 30 seconds, 15 seconds of combing and 30 seconds of rinsing.
6) remove excessive water and make hair swatch be the flat square shape from hair swatch is crowded.
7) hair swatch is placed in 25 ℃/50% relative humidity room, and dry 24 hours.
Here used sample shampoo is the shampoo composite of Prell shampoo (the non-conditioning shampoo of selling on American market at present) or said in an embodiment " shampoo 1 ".Here said sample conditioner is care composition a kind of in said in an embodiment " conditioner 1 "-" conditioner 7 ".
Typically, at first measure identical hair swatch as " initial hair swatch ", then measure as " treated hair swatch ", initial hair swatch and treated hair swatch are all according to method preparation mentioned above.
In case prepare hair swatch (initial or treated),, then pass the looping pit 5 of platform 6 and be fixed in the specimen holder 4 with the thorough combing of hair swatch 7 times.When measuring each time, the distance of specimen holder 4 and looping pit 5 should be identical.
Then Instron measuring cell 2 is moved upwards up to suitable height from the bottom, with hair swatch 7 by this Instron measuring cell 2 through lines 3 and specimen holder 4 stretch (draw speed is: 4mm/ second).When the hair sample was stretched, hair swatch passed looping pit 5.When the hair sample passes looping pit 5, measure tensile strength with Merlin Profiler software.
Repeat this mensuration 3 times for a kind of hair swatch (initial or treated), and adopt identical shampoo and/or identical conditioner that 3 hair swatches are carried out identical processing.Therefore, for identical processing, treated hair swatch carries out altogether measuring for 9 times and initial hair swatch carries out mensuration altogether 9 times.
The tensile strength data are transferred on the computer, with the tension force merit of 8 centimetres of the beginnings that calculate certain suitable distance, preferred hair swatch.Adopt following equation to calculate:
x=D
Tension force merit (mJ)=∫ Fdx
x=0
F is when the hair sample stretches through looping pit with distance x in the formula, the expansion load of Instron measuring cell; D is the length of the hair swatch that is used to measure.
Then calculate the difference between the tension force merit of treated and initial hair swatch.Adopt following equation to carry out this calculating.
Δ=merit Treated-merit Initial
Calculate difference each time in for 9 times of identical processing measuring, then bond them together meansigma methods (Δ with the tension force merit that obtains each same treatment Handle).
According to upper limit volume control treatment (top volume control treatment) (Δ Upper limit volume) and to lower limit volume control treatment (bottom volume control treatment) (Δ The lower limit volume) the tension force merit data that obtained, with above-mentioned actual tension merit data (Δ Handle) be transformed into bulk index.This upper limit volume control treatment is the Prell shampoo of adopting without any conditioner (the non-conditioning shampoo of selling on the American market at present), the described processing of conduct among the embodiment " processing 1 " hereinafter.This lower limit volume control treatment is to adopt among the embodiment hereinafter as " shampoo 1 " and " conditioner 1 " described shampoo and conditioner, in an embodiment as the processing of " processing 2 ".Adopt following equation to change:
Embodiment
The following example has further described and has proved the specific embodiments in the scope of the invention.These embodiment only are illustrative, but not limit the scope of the invention, because can carry out multiple variation under the conditions without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.Except as otherwise noted, each composition all provides with chemical name or CTFA title.
Compositions of the present invention is applicable to leave and rinse-off products, and is particularly useful for making the product that is emulsion (emulsion), cream (cream), gel (gel), spray (spray) or mousse (mousse) form.
" shampoo 1 " is to be used for the exponential processing shampoo composite of volume calculated.
" conditioner 1 " is to be used for the exponential processing Wo 2008069000 of volume calculated.
" conditioner 2 " is the Wo 2008069000 of the present invention that is specially adapted to the washing-off type purposes to " conditioner 7 ".
" handling 1 " is to be used for the exponential upper limit volume of volume calculated control treatment, adopts the Prell (the non-conditioning shampoo of selling on the American market at present) that does not contain conditioner.
" handle 2 " is to be used for the exponential lower limit volume of volume calculated control treatment, adopts shampoo (" shampoo 1 ") and do not contain the conditioner (" conditioner 1 ") of the cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified.
" handle 3 " to " handling 8 " is to be used for the exponential processing of volume calculated, adopt identical shampoo (" shampoo 1 ") and with different conditioners of the present invention (" conditioner 2 " is to " conditioner 7 ").
Compositions
[shampoo]
Component Shampoo 1
Laureth-3 ammonium sulfate ????15
Ammonium lauryl sulfate ????5
Ammonium xylene sulfonate ????0.40
Polysiloxane mixture *1 ????0.50
Spermol *2 ????0.42
Stearyl alcohol *3 ????0.18
Coconut monoethanol amide (Cocamide MEA) *4 ????0.85
Spice ????0.5
Kathon?CG ????0.05
Citric acid ????0.1
Trisodium citrate dihydrate ????1.00
The EDTA tetrasodium salt ????0.016
Sodium benzoate ????0.25
Pantothenylol *13 ????0.03
General basic ether *14 ????0.25
NaCl ????4.00
Deionized water Add to 100%
[conditioner]
Component Conditioner 1 Conditioner 2 Conditioner 3 Conditioner 4
The cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified *5 ??- ????0.50 ????0.10 ????0.25
Cationic silicone emulsion *6 ??- ????- ????0.69 ????-
Polysiloxane mixture *1 ??2.52 ????2.52 ????- ????2.52
Spermol *2 ??1.5 ????1.5 ????1.5 ????1.5
Stearyl alcohol *3 ??2.7 ????2.7 ????2.7 ????2.7
The amino propyl group dimethylamine of stearoyl *8 ??1.2 ????1.2 ????1.2 ????1.2
1-glutamic acid *9 ??0.384 ????0.384 ????0.384 ????0.384
Polypropylene glycol *10 ??- ????0.10 ????0.20 ????0.10
Antiseptic ??0.033 ????0.033 ????0.033 ????0.033
Benzyl alcohol ??0.4 ????0.4 ????0.4 ????0.4
Spice ??0.6 ????0.6 ????0.6 ????0.6
Hydrolytic collagen *11 ??0.01 ????0.01 ????0.01 ????0.01
Vitamin E *12 ??0.01 ????0.01 ????0.01 ????0.01
Pantothenylol *13 ??0.05 ????0.05 ????0.05 ????0.05
General basic ether *14 ??0.05 ????0.05 ????0.05 ????0.05
Octyl methoxycinnamate ??0.09 ????0.09 ????0.09 ????0.09
Benzophenone-3 ??0.09 ????0.09 ????0.09 ????0.09
Dl-alpha tocopherol acetas ??0.03 ????0.03 ????0.03 ????0.03
Citric acid *15 Regulate the required amount of pH3-7
Deionized water Add to 100%
[conditioner]
Component Conditioner 5 Conditioner 6 Conditioner 7
The cationic cellulose of hydrophobically modified *5 ????0.50 ????0.25 ????0.50
Polysilopxane blends *1 ????4.20 ????2.52 ????3.0
Spermol *2 ????4.5 ????1.2 ????0.7
Stearyl alcohol *3 ????1.5 ????0.8 ????0.5
Docosanol *7 ????- ????- ????0.1
The amino propyl group dimethylamine of stearoyl *8 ????2.0 ????1.0 ????0.75
1-glutamic acid *9 ????0.64 ????- ????-
Two Adeps Bovis seu Bubali alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides *16 ????- ????0.75 ????0.75
Four isostearic acid pentaerythritol esters *17 ????1.0 ????0.2 ????0.10
Four pentaerythritol oleates *18 ????- ????0.10 ????0.25
Oleyl alcohol *19 ????- ????0.1 ????0.25
PEG?2M *20 ????- ????0.25 ????0.5
Polypropylene glycol *10 ????0.1 ????0.10 ????0.20
Polysorbate *21 ????- ????0.125 ????0.125
Glyceryl monostearate *22 ????- ????0.25 ????0.25
Antiseptic ????0.033 ????0.04 ????0.04
Benzyl alcohol ????0.4 ????0.4 ????0.4
Spice ????0.6 ????0.6 ????0.6
EDTA acid ????0.01 ????0.02 ????0.01
Hydrolytic collagen *11 ????0.01 ????0.01 ????0.01
Vitamin E *12 ????0.01 ????0.01 ????0.01
Pantothenylol *13 ????0.05 ????0.1 ????0.05
General basic ether *14 ????0.05 ????0.01 ????0.05
Octyl methoxycinnamate ????0.09 ????0.09 ????0.09
Benzophenone-3 ????0.09 ????0.09 ????0.09
Dl-alpha tocopherol acetas ????0.03 ????0.03 ????0.03
Citric acid *15 Regulate the required amount of pH3-7
Deionized water Add to 100%
[processing]
Handle 1 Handle 2 Handle 3 Handle 4
Shampoo ????Prell Shampoo 1 Shampoo 1 Shampoo 1
Conditioner ????- Conditioner 1 Conditioner 2 Conditioner 3
Bulk index ????100 ??0 ??68.6 ??21.0
Handle 5 Handle 6 Handle 7 Handle 8
Shampoo Shampoo 1 Shampoo 1 Shampoo 1 Shampoo 1
Conditioner Conditioner 4 Conditioner 5 Conditioner 6 Conditioner 7
Bulk index ??29.0 ??46.0 ??26.2 ??48.0
The definition of component
*1 polysiloxane mixture: SE76 is from General Electric.
*2 spermols: Konol series, from Shin Nihon Rika.
*2 stearyl alcohols: Konol series, from Shin Nihon Rika.
*4 cocoamidopropyl: Tego Betaine F, from TH Goldschmidt.
*The cationic cellulose of 5 hydrophobically modifieds: Quaterisoft polymer LM 200, from Amerchol, it has following general formula:
N=about 1,000
x=25-300
y=0.4
Molecular weight=250,000-300,000
*6 cationic silicone emulsions: PE2016 is from Dow Corning; It is the emulsion of machinery emulsification, contain 55% polysiloxane compound and 3.0% cationic surfactant, wherein the particle size of this silicone compounds is about 280nm, and adopts polydimethylsiloxane with about 900 repetitives and the polydimethylsiloxane (ratio is 27: 73) with about 100 repetitives to make.
*7 docosanols: 1-Docosanol (97%) is from Wako.
*The amino propyl group dimethylamine of 8 stearoyls: Amidoamine MPS, from Nikko.
*9l-glutamic acid: 1-glutamic acid (cosmetics-stage), from Ajinomoto.
*10 polypropylene glycols: New pol PP-2000, from Sanyo Kasei.
*11 water angle collagens: Peptein 2000, from Hormel.
*12 vitamin Es: Emix-d is from Eisai.
*13 pantothenylol: from Roche.
*14 general basic ether: from Roche.
*15 citric acids: anhydrous citric acid, from Haarman ﹠amp; Reimer.
*16 2 Adeps Bovis seu Bubali alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides: from Witco Chemicals.
*17 4 isostearic acid pentaerythritol esters: KAK PTI, from Kokyu alcohol.
*18 4 pentaerythritol oleates: from Shin Nihon Rika.
*19 oleyl alcohol: from New Japan Chemicals.
*20PEG 2M:Polyox is from Union Carbide.
*21Polysorbate: from Croda Chemicals.
*22 glyceryl monostearates: from Stepan Chemicals.
Preparation method
Above the shampoo composite of said " shampoo 1 " can conventional method known in the art make.Suitable method is as described below.
With polymer and surfactant-dispersed in water to form a kind of uniform mixture.In this mixture, add other composition except that spice and salt; The mixture that is obtained is stirred.Then the mixture that is obtained is flow through heat exchanger to cool off, add spice and salt subsequently.The compositions that is obtained is poured in the bottle to form hair shampoo compositions.In addition, can under higher temperature, under surpassing 70 ℃, water be mixed with surfactant and other solid that need melt, thereby quickening is mixed into the speed of shampoo.Other composition can be joined in this warm premixing thing, also can behind this pre-composition of cooling, add.These compositions are thoroughly mixed under higher temperature, and pumping then is through in the high speed shear grinder, subsequently through a heat exchanger so that it is cooled to ambient temperature.Then at room temperature in this refrigerative mixture, add cationic silicone emulsion and stirring fully.
Above the Wo 2008069000 of said " conditioner 1 " to " conditioner 7 " can be by any conventional method preparation known in the art.They can make by following suitable mode: if comprise polymeric material in the said composition, then at room temperature the cationic cellulose and the Polyethylene Glycol of this polymeric material such as hydrophobically modified is dispersed in water, form a kind of polymer solution, and be heated more than 70 ℃.Under agitation, in this solution, add amidoamines and acid or other cation opsonizing agent and low melting point ester oil (if present).Under agitation then, in this solution, add hard fat chemical compound and other low melting point oil (if present) and benzyl alcohol.Thus obtained mixture is cooled to be lower than 60 ℃, and when stirring with remaining composition, add as cationic silicone emulsion (if present) and wherein and further to be cooled to about 30 ℃.
Need, can in each step, adopt SANYE kneader (triblender) and/or grinder, so that material is disperseed.
Embodiment disclosed by front " conditioner 2 " to " conditioner 7 " and representative has many advantages.For instance, they can increase loose hair volume, flexibility, wetness sensation and the control of dispersing.
Should be appreciated that embodiment of the present invention and specific embodiments only are illustrative, under the condition that does not deviate from spirit and scope of the invention, those of ordinary skills can carry out various changes or variation to it.

Claims (8)

1. Wo 2008069000, by weight, it comprises:
(a) about 0.1%-5% has the cationic cellulose of the hydrophobically modified of following general formula:
R in the formula 1Be the alkyl with about 8-22 carbon atom, n is the integer of 1-about 4,000; X is 0 or the integer of 1-about 6; Y is the cation substitution level, is 0.1-1.0; Its molecular weight is no more than about 1,000,000;
(b) conditioner of about 0.01%-20%; And
(c) a kind of aqueous carrier, wherein this Wo 2008069000 can make loose hair volume increase by 20 or higher bulk index when measuring with the Instron stereometry.
2. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1, wherein the molecular weight of the cationic cellulose of this hydrophobically modified is about 250,000-500,000.
3. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1, wherein to be selected from fusing point be that 25 ℃ or higher hard fat chemical compound, fusing point are lower than low melting point oil, cationic surfactant, cationic polymer, polysiloxane compound, cationic silicone emulsion of 25 ℃ and composition thereof to this conditioner.
4. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 3, it comprises cationic silicone emulsion, and this emulsion contains the cationic surfactant of the about 1%-20% that accounts for this cationic silicone emulsion weight; And but particle size is less than the polysiloxane compound of about 50 microns emulsifying amount.
5. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 4, wherein the particle size of this polysiloxane compound is about 0.2-2.5 micron.
6. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 3, it comprises hard fat chemical compound and cationic surfactant.
7. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 6, wherein this cationic surfactant comprises:
Amidoamines with following general formula:
R 1CONH (CH 2) mN (R 2) 2R in the formula 1Be C 11-C 24The residue of fatty acid, R 2Be C 1-C 4Alkyl, and m is the integer of 1-4; And be selected from a kind of acid in L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, tartaric acid and composition thereof.
8. according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 3, it comprises the low melting point oil that is selected from following material:
(a) molecular weight is at least about 800 and have a pentaerythritol ester oil of following general formula:
Figure A9981707000031
R in the formula 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Independently for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-;
(b) molecular weight is at least about 800 and have the trihydroxy methyl ester oil of following general formula:
R in the formula 11For having the alkyl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-; And R 12, R 13And R 14Independently for have about 30 carbon atoms of 1-, side chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl;
(c) be no more than about 3 poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil for about 1-35000 centistoke, molecular weight for about 200-60000, polydispersity from the deutero-poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil of 1-olefinic monomer, viscosity with about 16 carbon atoms of about 6-;
(d) molecular weight is at least about 500 and have the citric acid ester oil of following general formula:
R in the formula 21Be OH or CH 3COO, and R 22, R 23And R 24Independently for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-;
(e) molecular weight is at least about 500 and have a glyceride oil of following general formula:
R in the formula 41, R 42And R 43Independently for having side chain, straight chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and the alkaryl of about 30 carbon atoms of 1-;
And composition thereof.
CN 99817070 1999-11-09 1999-11-09 Hair conditioning composition comprising hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose Pending CN1391461A (en)

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US8790623B2 (en) 2005-01-18 2014-07-29 Il'Oreal Composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one aromatic alcohol, at least one aromatic carboxylic acid, and at least one protecting agent
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