CN1279600A - Conditioning shampoo composition comprising pantaerythritol ester oil - Google Patents

Conditioning shampoo composition comprising pantaerythritol ester oil Download PDF

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CN1279600A
CN1279600A CN98811244A CN98811244A CN1279600A CN 1279600 A CN1279600 A CN 1279600A CN 98811244 A CN98811244 A CN 98811244A CN 98811244 A CN98811244 A CN 98811244A CN 1279600 A CN1279600 A CN 1279600A
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acid
alkyl
ester oil
carbon atoms
purchased
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内山浩孝
沟口幸子
三松新
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Procter and Gamble Ltd
Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Ltd
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Priority claimed from PCT/US1997/016403 external-priority patent/WO1999013824A1/en
Priority claimed from PCT/US1997/020736 external-priority patent/WO1999024014A1/en
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Ltd filed Critical Procter and Gamble Ltd
Publication of CN1279600A publication Critical patent/CN1279600A/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/434—Luminescent, Fluorescent; Optical brighteners; Photosensitizers

Abstract

Disclosed is a hair conditioning composition comprising: (1) a high molecular weight ester oil being water-insoluble, having a molecular weight of at least about 800, and in liquid form at 25 DEG C, the high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of: (a) pentaerythritol ester oils, (b) trimethylol ester oils, and mixtures thereof; (2) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant; (3) a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least 25 DEG C ; and (4) an aqueous carrier.

Description

The Wo 2008069000 that comprises high molecular ester oil
Invention field
The present invention relates to comprise the Wo 2008069000 of high molecular ester oil.More particularly, the present invention relates to comprise the cationic surfactant of high molecular ester oil, hydrophilic replacement and the Wo 2008069000 of high melting compound.
Background of invention
Contact with environment and can cause the hair dirt by the scalp sebum secreted.Dirty sense or greasy dirt sense are just given in the hair dirt, cause outward appearance indecency.Therefore, the dirt on the necessary routine cleaning hair.
The hair washing process can be removed excessive dirt and sebum and be made the hair cleaning.But hair washing can make hair wet, tangle and be difficult to combing usually.And after the hair drying,, can make hair dry, coarse, matt or curling again owing to removed natural oiliness and other the natural conditioning and the moistening component of hair.And then hair also can produce static after drying, disturbs combing also to cause " hair flies upward ", perhaps makes the terminal bifurcated of hair (particularly long hair).
Various researchs have been carried out at present to extenuate the problem that these hair washing backs produce.These researchs relate to hair washing back coating hair conditioner, as not eccysis product and eccysis product, and hair conditioning shampoo, described conditioner shampoo can be finished cleaning and be nursed one's health two kinds of effects by a kind of product.Though some consumer like this comprise conditioner that shampoo had was simple and convenient, still have a part of consumer of significant proportion to be more prone to conventional and the conditioner prescription of hair washing process separate administration (usually after hair washing) on hair.The conditioner prescription can be divided into eccysis product or not eccysis product, can be emulsion, cream, gel, spray and mousse.The consumer of having a preference for traditional conditioner prescription thinks to have higher relatively conditioning effect, and the conveniency that perhaps can change the conditioner consumption according to the situation of hair or part hair is valuable.
Provide the conventional method of opsonic action to be to use hair conditioner to obtain to hair as cationic surfactant and polymer, silicone conditioning agent, hydrocarbon ils and aliphatic alcohol.
As everyone knows, cationic surfactant and polymer, hydrocarbon ils and aliphatic alcohol can strengthen hair gloss, increase wettability, flexibility and to electrostatic control.But these components also can make hair feel be clamminess or greasy dirt or bring waxy sensation, and are particularly all the more so when hair is dry.Because silicone compounds has lower surface tension, silicone conditioning agent also can provide such as making effect such as the smooth and easy combing of hair.But silicone conditioning agent can cause hair dry or curling, particularly dry right overhead dry after.
Based on foregoing, people still wish to find a kind of care composition that all can improve opsonic action under hair moistening and hair drying.Particularly, people still wish to find a kind ofly provides long-acting wetness sensation, smooth feeling and is easy to combing and can make hair that the care composition of greasy dirt sense is arranged.
Prior art fails to provide the product with all advantages of the present invention and effect.
Summary of the invention
The present invention relates to a kind of Wo 2008069000, it comprises:
(1) it is about 800 that a kind of water-insoluble high molecular weight ester oil, its molecular weight are at least, and is liquid in the time of 25 ℃, described high-molecular weight ester grease separation from:
A) pentaerythritol ester oil of following formula: Wherein, R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be to have 1 straight chain, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl independently of one another to about 30 carbon atoms;
B) the trihydroxy methyl ester oil of following formula: Wherein, R 11Be to have 1 alkyl, R to about 30 carbon atoms 12, R 13And R 14Be to have 1 straight chain, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl independently of one another to about 30 carbon atoms;
With its mixture;
(2) cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement;
(3) fusing point is at least 25 ℃ high melting compound; With
(4) a kind of aqueous carrier.
For a person skilled in the art, these and other feature of the present invention, aspect and advantage will will be easy to understand after having read description of the present invention.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
In description and claims are specifically noted and clear limit the while of the present invention, believe that the present invention can understand better by following explanation.
The document of all references all is incorporated herein by reference.The introducing of these lists of references does not also mean that and can access the claimed content of the present invention as prior art.
Among the present invention, " comprising " is meant and can adds other step and other composition that can not influence the termination fruit.This term has comprised term " composition " and " basic composition ".
Except as otherwise noted, all percent, umber and ratios all are that benchmark calculates with the total composition weight.All weight that relate to ingredients listed are that benchmark calculates with its active component all, do not comprise the various components that comprise in the product that are purchased such as carrier or by-product.
Each side of the present invention and each embodiment have many advantages.For example, Wo 2008069000 of the present invention provides very long moistening sensation of hair persistent period, smooth sensation and be easy to combing when drying, does not also cause smeary sensation to hair simultaneously.Wo 2008069000 of the present invention is applicable to not eccysis hair product or rinses hair product.
High molecular ester oil
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention comprises a kind of high-molecular weight ester oil, and it is selected from pentaerythritol ester oil, trihydroxy methyl ester oil and its mixture.Be used for high molecular ester oil of the present invention for those are water-insoluble, molecular weight is at least about 800 and be the chemical compound of liquid in the time of 25 ℃.Term " water-insoluble " is meant that described chemical compound is water insoluble basically in the time of 25 ℃ herein; When this chemical compound with greater than 1.0%, when being preferably greater than 0.5% concentration and mixing with water, can temporarily disperse and be formed on unsettled colloid in the water, but can from water, separate very soon and form biphase.
High molecular ester oil of the present invention provides as moistening sensation, smooth sensation after hair is done and has been easy to the conditioning effect of combing, does not also cause smeary sensation to hair simultaneously.Believe that water-insoluble oily material can be deposited on the hair usually.Be not subjected to the restriction of any theory, believe,, can cover the surface of hair because the molecule of high molecular ester oil is very big, the result, high molecular ester oil has reduced the friction of hair, makes that hair is more smooth and is easy to combing.Also believe in addition,,, but, can't make hair that the greasy dirt sensation is arranged because it is a liquid so high molecular ester oil provides moistening sensation because it has some hydrophilic groups.High molecular ester oil is chemically stable under normal use and holding conditions.
The content of high molecular ester oil is generally about 0.1% to about 20%, and preferred about 0.2% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, with composition weight meter.
Be used for pentaerythritol ester oil of the present invention and be having those of following formula: Wherein, R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be to have 1 straight chain, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl independently of one another to about 30 carbon atoms.Preferred R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be to have about 8 straight chains, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl independently of one another to about 22 carbon atoms.More preferably, R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Qualification should to make the molecular weight of chemical compound be about 800 to about 1200.
Be used for trihydroxy methyl ester oil of the present invention and be having those of following formula: Wherein, R 11Be to have 1 alkyl, R to about 30 carbon atoms 12, R 13And R 14Be to have 1 straight chain, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl independently of one another to about 30 carbon atoms.Preferred R 11Be ethyl, R 12, R 13And R 14Be to have 8 straight chains, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl independently of one another to about 22 carbon atoms.More preferably R 11, R 12, R 13And R 14Qualification should to make the molecular weight of chemical compound be about 800 to about 1200.
Useful especially pentaerythritol ester oil of the present invention and trihydroxy methyl ester oil comprise: pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate, tetramethylolmethane four oleates, trimethylolpropane tris isostearate, trimethylolpropane tris oleate and its mixture.These chemical compounds can be purchased with trade name KAKPTI, KAKTTI and be purchased with trade name PTO, ENUJERUBU TP3SO from Shin-nihon Rika from Kokyo Alcohol.
The cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention comprises a kind of cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement.The cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement of the present invention comprises: the surfactant that comprises at least 2 hydrophilic segments, wherein, at least 1 substituent group in the molecule is selected from aromatics ether-ether, acylamino-or amino part, and at least one substituent group is selected from alkoxyl (preferred C 1-C 3Alkoxyl), polyoxy alkylidene (preferred C 1-C 3Polyoxy alkylidene), alkyl amido, hydroxyalkyl and alkyl group.The cationic surfactant of preferred hydrophilic replacement of the present invention comprises 2 to about 10 non-ionic hydrophilic segments.
The cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement of the present invention can provide opsonic action such as smooth feeling when particularly dry () right overhead to hair.Believe, the cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement and foregoing high-molecular weight ester line of oils are closed, the care composition that can provide a kind of improvement all to have opsonic action when wet and hair is done at hair.
The content of the cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement is extremely about 20% weight of about 0.1% weight in the compositions, and preferred about 0.2% weight is to about 10% weight, and more preferably from about 0.5% weight is to about 5% weight.
The cationic surfactant of suitable hydrophilic replacement comprises that formula II down is to those of (VIII): Wherein, n 1Be 8 to about 28, m 1+ m 2Be 2 to about 40, Z 1Be short-chain alkyl, preferred C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH 2CH 2O) m 3H, wherein, m 1+ m 2+ m 3Be at most 60, X is into salt anionic, is selected from: halogen ion (as chloride ion, bromide ion), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolic root, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, sulfonate radical, sulfate radical, alkyl sulfate and alkyl azochlorosulfonate;
Figure 9881124400082
Wherein, n 2Be 1 to 5, R 105, R 106, R 107In one or more be C independently of one another 1-C 30Alkyl, remaining is CH 2CH 2OH, R 108, R 109, R 110In one or two be C independently of one another 1-C 30Alkyl, all the other are CH 2CH 2OH, X become salt anionic as mentioned above;
Figure 9881124400083
Figure 9881124400084
Wherein, independently for formula IV and (V), Z 2Be alkyl, preferred C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably methyl, Z 3Be the short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferred methylol or ethoxy, n 3And n 4Be the integer of 2-4 independently of one another, preferred 2-3, more preferably 2, R 111And R 112Be to replace or unsubstituted alkyl C independently of one another 12-C 20Alkyl or alkenyl, X are aforesaid one-tenth salt anionics;
Figure 9881124400091
Wherein, R 113Be alkyl, preferred C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably methyl, Z 4And Z 5Be short-chain hydrocarbon group independently of one another, preferred C 2-C 4Alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl, m 4Be 2 to about 40, preferred about 7 to about 30, and X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic;
Figure 9881124400092
Wherein, R 114And R 115Be C independently of one another 1-C 3Alkyl, preferable methyl, Z 6Be C 12-C 22Alkyl, alkyl carboxyl or alkyl amido, A are a kind of protein, preferred collagen, keratin, lactoprotein, silk, soybean protein, wheat protein or its hydrolysed form; X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic; Wherein, n 5Be 2 or 3, R 116And R 117Be C independently of one another 1-C 3Alkyl, preferable methyl, X is aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic.
The non-limiting example that is used for the cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement of the present invention comprises: the material with following CTFA name: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quatetnium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quatemium-75, the quatemium-76 hydrolytic collagen, quatemium 77, quatemium-78, the quatemium-79 hydrolytic collagen, the quatemium-79 hydrolysis of keratin, the quatemium-79 lactoalbumin hydrolysate, the quatemium-79 hydrolyzed-silk, the quatemium-79 hydrolyzed soybean protein, the quatemium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quatemium-80, quatemium-81 quatemium-82, quatemium-83, quatemium-84 and its mixture.
The cationic surfactant of particularly preferred hydrophilic replacement comprises: dialkyl group acylamino-ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt (hydroxyethylmonium salt), dialkyl group acylamino-ethyl dimethyl ammonium (dimonium salt), two alkanoyls (dialkyloyl) ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, two alkanoyls (dialkyloyl) ethyl dimethyl ammonium and its mixture.For example, the product that is purchased with following trade name: VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT K1215 and VARIQUAT 638 are purchased the Chemical from Witco; MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPROMLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP are purchased from Mclntyre; ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25 and ETHODUOQUAD are purchased from Akzo; DEHYQUAT SP is purchased from Henkel, and ATLASG265, is purchased the Americas from ICI.
High melting compound
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention can comprise fusing point and be at least about 25 ℃ high melting compound, and these chemical compounds are selected from aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid, fatty alcohol derivative, derivative of fatty acid, hydrocarbon, steroid and its mixture.Those skilled in the art will appreciate that present disclosure in this part disclosed chemical compound divide sometimes in the multiclass, for example, some fatty alcohol derivative also can be classified and be made derivative of fatty acid.But given classification is not that concrete chemical compound is limited, just for ease of classification and name.And then, those skilled in the art will appreciate that some has the chemical compound that necessarily requires carbon number may be lower than about 25 ℃ by its fusing point according to the length and the position of the quantity of two keys and position, side chain.These low-melting compounds are not contained in this joint.The non-limiting example of high melting compound is stated in following document: International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, the 5th edition, 1993 and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, the 2nd edition, 1992.
Believe that these high melting compounds can cover hair surface and reduce friction, thereby can make hair that smooth feeling is arranged and be easy to combing.
It is about 1% to 4% that the content of high melting compound is generally, preferred about 3% to 10%, and more preferably from about 4% to 8%, with composition weight meter.
Be used for aliphatic alcohol of the present invention for having about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 16 aliphatic alcohol to about 22 carbon atoms.These aliphatic alcohol can be straight or branched alcohol, can be saturated or unsaturated alcohol.The non-limiting example of aliphatic alcohol comprises: spermol, stearyl alcohol, pure and mild its mixture of docosane.
Be used for fatty acid of the present invention for having about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 fatty acid.These fatty acids can be straight or branched acid, can be saturated or unsaturated acids.Can comprise that also binary acid, ternary acid and other satisfy the polyprotic acid of carbon number requirement of the present invention.The present invention also comprises the salt of these fatty acids.The non-limiting example of fatty acid comprises: lauric acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, decanedioic acid and its mixture.
But fatty alcohol derivative of the present invention and derivative of fatty acid comprise fatty acid and its mixture that the alkyl ether of the alkyl ether of aliphatic alcohol, oxyalkylated aliphatic alcohol, alkoxy fatty alcohols, the ester of aliphatic alcohol, the fatty acid ester with esterified hydroxy groups group, hydroxyl replace.The non-limiting example of fatty alcohol derivative and derivative of fatty acid comprises: such as the material of methyl stearyl ether; Ceteth (ceteth) series compound, as ceteth-l to ceteth-45, they are glycol ethers of spermol, wherein, the quantity of numeral ethylene glycol part; Octadecyl polyoxyethylene ether (steareth) series compound, as steareth-1 to steareth-10, they are glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol, wherein, the quantity of numeral ethylene glycol part; Cetyl/octadecyl polyoxyethylene ether (ceteareth) series compound, as ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, they are the glycol ethers of mixture that mainly comprise the aliphatic alcohol of spermol and stearyl alcohol, wherein, and the quantity of numeral ethylene glycol part; The C of ceteth, octadecyl polyoxyethylene ether, cetyl/octadecyl polyoxyethylene ether compound 1-C 30Alkyl ether; The polyoxyethylene ether of tadenan; Ethyl stearte, the stearic acid cetyl, cetin, the stearic acid stearyl, myristic acid myristyl ester, polyoxyethylene cetyl base ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl base ether stearate, the polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, the polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, the propylene glycol distearate, the trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan monostearate, the polyglyceryl stearate, glycerol monostearate, the glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate and its mixture.
The hydrocarbon that is used for the present invention comprises the chemical compound that has at least about 20 carbon atoms.
The steroid that is used for the present invention comprises such as cholesteric chemical compound.
The preferred high melting compound that adopts highly purified unification compound.The unification compound of preferred especially pure fat alcohol, it is selected from pure spermol, stearyl alcohol and tadenan.Among the present invention " pure " to be meant that the purity of this chemical compound is at least about 90%, preferably be at least about 95%.These highly purified unification compounds provide rinsing ability good when consumer's rinse composition.
Being used for commercially available high melting compound of the present invention comprises: spermol, stearyl alcohol and tadenan, and trade name KONOL series can (Osaka Japan) be purchased from Shin Nihon Rika; NAA series can be purchased from NOF (Tokyo Japan); Pure tadenan, trade name 1-DOCOSANOL, can from WAKO (Osaka Japan) is purchased, various fatty acids, trade name NEO-FAT can (Chicago lllinois USA) be purchased from Akzo; HYSTRENE can (DublinOhio USA) be purchased, and DERMA, can (Genova Italy) is purchased from Vevy from Witco Corp.; And cholesterol, trade name NIKKOL AGUASOME LA can be purchased from Nikko.
Aqueous carrier
Compositions of the present invention comprises a kind of aqueous carrier.The content of carrier and kind are according to selecting with the compatibility and the product desirable characteristics of other component.
The carrier that is used for the present invention comprises the aqueous solution of water and the pure and mild polyhydric alcohol of low alkyl group.Being used for lower alkyl alcohol of the present invention is the alkylol with 1-6 carbon atom, more preferably ethanol and isopropyl alcohol.Be used for polyhydric alcohol of the present invention and comprise propylene glycol (propylene glycol), hexanediol, glycerol and propylene glycol (propane diol).
Preferred aqueous carrier is water basically.The preferred deionized water that adopts.The characteristic required according to product, water also can come the open water supply of self-contained inorganic cation.Usually, compositions of the present invention comprises about 20% to about 95%, and preferred about 30% to about 92%, more preferably from about 50% to about 90% water.
Uncle's amidoamines and acid
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention can further comprise alkyl and have the about 12 uncle's amidoamines to about 22 carbon atoms.
Uncle's amidoamines of the present invention also provides particularly the opsonic action of sending out as hair smooth feeling etc. doing.Believe, uncle's amidoamines and the cationic surfactant and the high-molecular weight ester line of oils of hydrophilic replacement are as mentioned above closed, can obtain to have the care composition of lamellar gel structure.
Lamellar gel structure (layered gel structure) can be distinguished mutually with spheroidal cementite phase structure (sphericalcrystalline phase structure).According to definition, the spheroidal cementite phase structure for example comprises solid crystals at random, (publish at " physical chemistry of spermaceti acid " by Fragrance Journal Ltd, the Bulbus Allii Cepae sample spherical layer of M-phase structure that defines 1992, the 83-84 pages or leaves) and the liquid crystal of in Japanese Kokai Patent Publication (A) S61-286311, telling about.Be not subjected to the restriction of any theory, believe, the solid crystals and/or the liquid crystal that are contained in the high melting compound in the spheroidal cementite phase structure can not be sprawled and be deposited on the hair surface effectively.As a result, mixing high melting compound subtend hair in the spheroidal cementite phase structure provides the contribution of conditioning effect to be lower than those to mix high melting compound in the lamellar gel structure.
The content of uncle's amidoamines in compositions is generally about 0.1% to about 20% weight, and preferred about 0.2% to about 10% weight, and more preferably from about 1% to about 5% weight.
Uncle's amidoamines of particularly suitable of the present invention comprises: the amino propyl-dimethyl amine of stearoyl, the amino propyl group diethylamide of stearoyl, the amino ethyl diethylamide of stearoyl, the amino ethyl dimethyl amine of stearoyl, palmityl aminopropyl dimethyl amine, palmityl aminopropyl diethylamide, palmityl amino-ethyl diethylamide, palmityl amino-ethyl dimethyl amine, docosane acylamino-propyl-dimethyl amine, docosane acylamino-propyl group diethylamide, docosane acylamino-ethyl diethylamide, docosane acylamino-ethyl dimethyl amine, eicosane acylamino-propyl-dimethyl amine, eicosane acylamino-propyl group diethylamide, eicosane acylamino-ethyl diethylamide, eicosane acylamino-ethyl dimethyl amine, diethylamino ethyl stearmide.Can also adopt stearylamine, the dihydroxy ethyl stearylamine of dimethyl stearylamine, dimethyl Semen sojae atricolor amine, Semen sojae atricolor amine, Semen Myristicae amine, tridecyl amine, ethyl stearylamine, N-tallow propane diamidogen, (using 5 moles of ethylene oxide) ethoxylation, Semen arachidis hypogaeae base docosyl amine.Can also adopt those to be disclosed in U.S.4, the uncle's amidoamines among 275,055 (Nachtigal etc.).
These uncle's amidoamines also can be used in combination with acid, and described acid for example is: L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid and its mixture; More preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.Preferably with any part neutralization in these acid, wherein the molar ratio of uncle's amidoamines and described acid is about 1: 0.3 to about 1: 2 to uncle's amidoamines of the present invention, more preferably from about 1: 0.4 to about 1: 1.
Silicone compounds
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention also can comprise a kind of silicone compounds.Silicone compounds of the present invention comprises volatile solubility or insoluble silicone conditioning agent, or the solubility of fixedness or insoluble silicone conditioning agent.So-called solubility is meant that the carrier of silicone compounds and compositions is miscible, thereby forms the identical phase of part.So-called insoluble siloxanes and the carrier of being meant forms the discontinuous phase that separates, as the emulsion or the suspension drop form of siloxanes.Silicone compounds of the present invention can comprise emulsion polymerization by any suitable method preparation commonly known in the art.Silicone compounds can also emulsion form mix in the compositions of the present invention, wherein, emulsion prepares by mechanical mixture, perhaps make at the synthesis phase of emulsion polymerisation, by or not by the help of the surfactant that is selected from anion surfactant, non-ionic surface active agent, cationic surfactant and its mixture.
Viscosity when being used for preferred its 25 ℃ of silicone compounds of the present invention is about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 centistoke, and more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1,800,000, also preferred about 100,000 to about 1,500,000.Viscosity can be measured by glass capillary tube viscometer, described in Dow Corning Corporate method of testing CTM 0004 (on July 20th, 1970).High-molecular weight silicone compounds can prepare by emulsion polymerization.Suitable siloxanes fluids comprises poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-aryl siloxanes, poly-alkaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymer and its mixture.Also can adopt other to have the fixedness silicone compounds of hair conditioning performance.
The content of silicone compounds in compositions is generally about 0.01% to about 2% weight, and more preferably from about 0.05% to about 10% weight.
Be used for silicone compounds of the present invention and also comprise poly-alkyl or poly-aryl siloxanes with following structural formula (I): Wherein, R 123Be alkyl or aryl, x is the integer of about 7-about 8,000.Z 8Represent the end-capping group of siloxane chain.(R at the siloxanes chain substitution 123) or at siloxane chain end (Z 8) alkyl or aryl can have any structure, as long as the siloxanes that forms at room temperature is a fluid, when it is applied on the hair, can disperse, non-stimulated, nontoxic, harmless, and it is compatible with other composition of compositions, chemically stable under routine use and holding conditions, and can be deposited on the hair and conditioning hair.Suitable Z 8Group comprises hydroxyl, methyl, methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group and aryloxy group.Two R on silicon atom 123Group can be represented identical group or different groups.Preferred two R 123Group is represented identical group.Suitable R 123Group comprises methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, tolyl and benzyl.Preferred silicone compounds is polydimethylsiloxane, poly-di-ethyl siloxane and PSI.Especially preferably be referred to as the polydimethylsiloxane of polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone).Adoptable poly-alkylsiloxane for example comprises polydimethylsiloxane.These siloxanes are commercially available from General ElectricCompany, are Viscasil Series and SF 96 series, and be purchased Corning from Dow, be DowCorning 200 series.
Poly-alkaryl siloxanes fluids also can adopt, and for example, comprises PSI.These siloxanes are for example commercially available from General Electric Company, and be SF 1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluids, and be purchased Corning from Dow, be 556 cosmetics-stage fluids.
In order to strengthen the gloss characteristic of hair, the also preferred especially silicone compounds that adopts high arylation of the present invention, as the poly-ethylsiloxane of high phenylating, its refraction index is about 1.46 or greater than 1.46, particularly about 1.52 or bigger.When using these high index siloxanes, they should mix with a kind of spreading agent as described below such as surfactant or silicone resin, with the film property of reduction surface tension and reinforcing material.
Adoptable silicone compounds comprises for example polydimethylsiloxane of poly(propylene oxide) modification, though also can adopt the mixture of oxirane or oxirane and expoxy propane.The content of oxirane and expoxy propane should be enough low so that it can not disturb the dispersive property of siloxanes.These materials also are referred to as alkoxylate polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone copolyols).
Other silicone compounds comprises the amino material that replaces.The silicone compounds that is suitable for alkylamino replacement of the present invention comprises those siloxanes with following formula II structure: Wherein, R 124Be H, CH 3Or OH, p 1, p 2, q 1And q 2For depending on the integer of molecular weight, mean molecule quantity is 5,000 to 10,000.This polymer also is referred to as " alkanamine polydimethylsiloxane (amodimechicone) ".
The siloxanes fluids that suitable amino replaces comprises the siloxanes (R with following formula III 125) aG 3-a-Si-(OSiG 2) P3-(OSiG b(R 125) 2-b) P4-O-SiG 3-a(R 125) a(III)
Wherein G is selected from hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxyl, C 1-C 8Alkyl, preferable methyl; A is 0 or the integer of 1-3, preferred 0; B is 0 or 1, preferred 1; p 3+ p 4Summation be 1-2,000, preferred 50-150, p 3Can represent 0-1,999 number, preferred 49-149, p 4Can represent 1-2,000 integer, preferred 1-10; R 125Be univalent perssad, satisfy formula C Q3H 2q3L, wherein, q 3Be the integer of 2-8, L can be selected from following radicals: Wherein, R 126Be selected from hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, saturated hydrocarbyl, preferably have the alkyl of 1-20 carbon atom, X is the halogen ion.
The particularly preferred siloxanes that replaces corresponding to the amino of formula III is the polymer that is referred to as " trimethyl silyl alkanamine polydimethylsiloxane ", wherein, and R 124Be CH 3
Other adoptable amino siloxane polymer that replaces is represented by following formula (V):
Figure 9881124400153
Wherein, R 128For having the monovalence alkyl of 1-18 carbon atom, preferred alkyl or alkenyl are as methyl; R 129Be alkyl, preferred C 1-C 18Alkylidene or C 1-C 18, preferred C 1-C 8Alkylene oxide group; Q is the halogen ion, preferred chlorine; p 5Be the average statistics value of 2-20, preferred 2-8; p 6Be the average statistics value of 20-200, preferred 20-50.This type of preferred polymer is commercially available from Union Carbide, trade name " UCARSILICONE ALE 56 ".
The document that discloses the suitable dispersive silicone compounds of fixedness comprises: US 2,826,551 (Geen), US 3,964,500 (1976.6.22 is issued to Drakoff), US 4,364,837 (Pader); And GB 849,433 (woolston).Petrarch System, " silicon compound (the Silicon Compound) " of Inc. (1984) distribution provide widely a kind of and have been the suitable silicone compounds of non-removing property.
The dispersive siloxanes of fixedness of another kind of particularly suitable is an insoluble silicone glue.Term " siloxane glue " is meant under 25 ℃ herein, and viscosity is more than or equal to 1,000, the polysiloxane material of 000 centistoke.Be appreciated that siloxane glue as herein described also may exist some overlapping with above-mentioned silicone compounds.This overlapping be not restriction to these materials.Petrarch has described this siloxane glue, and other document comprises: US 4,152,416 (Spitzer etc., on May 1st, 1979 authorized); Noll, Walter, siloxanes chemistry and technology (Chemistry and Technology of Silicones), New York:AcademicPress 1968.That also mention siloxane glue is General Electric Silicone Rubber ProductData Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE76.The weight average molecular weight of siloxane glue greater than about 200,000, generally is about 200,000-1,000,000 usually.Instantiation comprises polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenyl siloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer and its mixture.
Also can adopt a kind of silicone resin, it is highly cross-linked polymer siloxane system.Crosslinked is by in the silicone resin production process, introduces to have simple function group or two functional silanes or both trifunctionals and silicane of four functional groups and introduce.Known as this area, can change according to the concrete silane unit of introducing in the silicone resin for obtaining the needed degree of cross linking of silicone resin.Usually, contain the trifunctional of q.s and four-functional group siloxanyl monomers unit and therefore full cross-linked, be considered to silicone resin thereby dry back forms the silicone material of rigidity or hard film.The ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom has reflected the degree of cross linking in the concrete silicone material.Each silicon atom correspondence is at least about the silicone material of 1.1 oxygen atoms silicone resin normally of the present invention.The ratio of preferred oxygen atom and silicon atom was at least about 1.2: 1.0.Produce in the silicone resin used silane comprise monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, a phenyl-, diphenyl-, aminomethyl phenyl-, a vinyl-and methyl ethylene-chlorosilane, tetrachloro silicane, the most normal use is methyl substituted silane.Preferred resin is GE SS 4230 and the SS 4267 that is provided by General Electric.The silicone resin that is purchased is generally low viscosity volatilization or the nonvolatile siloxanes fluids with the dissolved form supply.Being used for silicone resin of the present invention should provide and introduce compositions of the present invention with this dissolved form, this be those of ordinary skill in the art clearly.Without being limited by theory, we believe that silicone resin can improve the deposition of other siloxane polymer on hair, and can improve the gloss of hair by the siloxanes that uses high refractive index.
Other useful silicone resin is the silicone resin powder, and as by CTFA nomenclature called after polymethylsilsequioxane, it can be from Toshiba Silicones with Tospearl TMBe purchased.
The method of producing this class silicone compounds can be referring to following document: " polymer science and engineering encyclopedia (Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering) ", the 15th volume, second edition, 204-308 page or leaf, John Wiley ﹠amp; Sons.Inc 1989 ".
Silicone compositions particularly silicone resin can be easily according to well known to a person skilled in the art i.e. " MDTQ " nomenclature identification of shorthand nomenclature system.In this system, siloxanes is that the various siloxanyl monomers unit according to the existence of forming siloxanes is described.In brief, symbol M is represented simple function group unit (CH 3) 3SiO 0.5D represents two functional group units (CH 3) 2SiO; T represents trifunctional unit (CH 3) SiO 1.5Q represents four-functional group cell S iO 2Unit symbol apostrophe such as M ', D ', T ', the substituent group of Q ' representative except that methyl, all need concrete definition at every turn.Typical replaceable substituent group is vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl etc.In the MDTQ system, perhaps the subscript with symbol indicates the unitary total number of every class (or meansigma methods) in the siloxanes, perhaps specifically indicates ratio and molecular weight is described, finishes the description to silicone material.In silicone resin, T, Q, T ' and/or Q ' compare with D, D ', M and/or M ' has relative high mole, then shows the crosslinking degree height.But as preceding discussion, crosslinked aggregate level also can be represented by the ratio of oxygen and silicon.
The preferred MQ of silicone resin of the present invention, MT, MTQ, MDT and MDTQ resin.Thereby preferred siloxanes substituent group is a methyl.Preferred especially MQ resin, wherein M: Q ratio is about 0.5: 1.0-1.5: 1.0, and the mean molecule quantity of resin is about 1000 to about 10,000.
Being used for commercially available silicone compounds of the present invention comprises: the polydimethylsiloxane of commodity D-130 by name, the cetyl polydimethylsiloxane of commodity DC2502 by name, the Stearyl dimethicone of commodity DC2503 by name, the emulsive polydimethylsiloxane of commodity DC1664 by name and DC1784, the alkyl graft copolymer silicone emulsion of commodity DC2-2845 by name; All be purchased CorningCorporation from Cow; And the Dimethiconol of emulsion polymerisation, be purchased Silicone from Toshiba, as GB2,303,857 is described.
Annexing ingredient
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention can comprise various annexing ingredients, and they can be selected by those skilled in the art according to the required characteristic of finished product.For example, annexing ingredient comprises: hydrophobic cations surfactant, cationic polymer, additional oiliness compound, non-ionic polymers and other annexing ingredient.
The hydrophobic cations surfactant
Being used for hydrophobic cations surfactant of the present invention is to well known to a person skilled in the art any.
Adopt in the hydrophobic cations surfactant of the present invention corresponding to those of logical formula I:
Figure 9881124400181
Wherein, R at least 101, R 102, R 103And R 104One of be selected from aliphatic group or have aromatic group, alkoxyl, polyoxy thiazolinyl, alkyl amido, hydroxyl amino, aryl or the alkaryl of about at the most 22 carbon atoms with 8-30 carbon atom; Remaining R 101, R 102, R 103And R 104Be independently from each other aliphatic group or the aromatic group with about at the most 22 carbon atoms, alkoxyl, polyoxy thiazolinyl, alkyl amido, hydroxyl amino, aryl or alkaryl with about 22 carbon atoms of 1-; X is for becoming salt anionic, as halogen ion (as chloride ion, bromide ion), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolic root, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, sulfonate radical, sulfate radical, alkyl sulfate and alkyl azochlorosulfonate.Aliphatic group de-carbon and hydrogen atom also can comprise ehter bond and other group such as amino outward.Long-chain aliphatic group 12 carbon groups former or more a plurality of carbon atoms according to appointment can be saturated group or unsaturated group.Preferred R 101, R 102, R 103And R 104Be independently selected from C 1To about C 22Alkyl.The non-limiting example that is used for hydrophobic cations surfactant of the present invention comprises the material with following CTFA name: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methyl ester sulfate, quaternium-24 and its mixture.
In the hydrophobic cations surfactant of logical formula I, preferably in molecule, comprise at least one wherein those of alkyl chain of at least 16 of carbon atoms.The non-limiting example of this preferred hydrophobic cations surfactant comprises: INCROQUAT TMC-80 ECONOL TM22, can be purchased from Croda by trade name INCROQUATTMC-80, and be purchased from Sanyo Kasei with trade name ECONOL TM22; The cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride can be purchased from Nikko Chemicals by trade name CA-2350; The hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; dialkyl group (14-18) alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; two tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides; dihydro tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; VARISOFT TA100; two cetyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides; two (docosyl/Semen arachidis hypogaeae base) alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; two docosyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides; the stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearyl propylene glycol phosphate ester alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl acylamino-propyl-dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride; stearyl acylamino-propyl-dimethyl (myristyl acetas) ammonium chloride, N-(stearyl cholamine base (colamino) formoxyl methyl) pyridinium chloride.
Cationic polymer
Wo 2008069000 of the present invention can comprise one or more cationic polymers.Term " polymer " used herein " will comprise all polymer, though its be by the preparation of one type monomer or by the monomer preparation of two or more types.
Preferably, cationic polymer is a kind of water-soluble cationic polymer.So-called " water solublity " cationic polymer is meant that polymer has enough dissolubility in water, is can form the basic clear solutions that bore hole is observed at 0.1% o'clock at 25 ℃, concentration in water (distilled water or suitable water).Preferred polymer is fully dissolving in water, 0.5%, more preferably forms clear solutions basically during 1.0% concentration.
It is about 5,000 that the weight average molecular weight that cationic polymer of the present invention has usually is at least, and generally is at least approximately 10,000, and is less than about 10,000,000.Molecular weight is preferably about 100,000 to about 2,000,000.Cationic polymer has the cation nitrogen moiety usually, as quaternary ammonium or cation amino part and its mixture.
Cationic charge density preferably is at least about 0.1meq/g, more preferably is at least about 1.5meg/g, further preferably is at least about 1.1meq/g, also more preferably is at least about 1.2meq/g.The cationic charge density of cationic polymer can be measured according to the Kieldahl method, and this method is well known to a person skilled in the art.The charge density that it will be understood by those skilled in the art that amido polymer will change according to the pH value and the isoelectric point, IP of amino group.Charge density should satisfy above-mentioned scope under the pH value of planning to use.
Any one anionic counter-ion all can be used in the cationic polymer, as long as can satisfy the water solublity standard.Suitable counter ion counterionsl gegenions comprise halogen ion (as chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine, preferred fluorine, bromine or iodine), sulfate radical and methyl ester sulfate radical.Other ion also can adopt, and the ion right and wrong of listing above are exclusive.
The cationic nitrogenous part of cationic polymer is usually to exist as the substituent group on its whole monomeric unit part.Therefore, cationic polymer comprises the monomeric unit of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine replacement and is known as the unitary copolymer of the unitary non-cationic of spacer monomers, terpolymer etc. at this.This polymer is known in the art, this base polymer is stated in following document: CTFA cosmetic composition dictionary (Cosmetic Ingredient.Dictionary), the 3rd edition, editor Estrin, Crosley and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc Washington, D.C 1982).
The example of suitable cationic polymer comprises: vinyl monomer and water solublity spacer monomers such as acrylamide, Methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl group acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methyl acrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone or vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional group.The monomer that alkyl and dialkyl group replace preferably has C 1-C 7Alkyl group, more preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl group.Other suitable spacer monomers comprises vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (by the hydrolyzed poly vinyl acetate preparation), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
Cationic amine can be primary amine, secondary amine or tertiary amine, and this depends on the particular types and the pH value of compositions.Usually, preferably adopt secondary amine and tertiary amine, particularly tertiary amine.
The vinyl monomer that amine replaces can the polymerization of amine form, then, optionally is converted to ammonium by quaterisation.Amine also can carry out quaternized similarly, forms polymer subsequently.For example, tertiary amine functional group can by with a kind of formula R 118The reactant salt of X and by quaternized, wherein, R 118Be short-chain alkyl, preferred C 1-C 7Alkyl, more preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl, X are aforesaid one-tenth salt anionic.
Suitable cation amino and quaternary ammonium monomer comprise: for example, use propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, the methacrylic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, acrylic acid alkyl monosubstituted amino Arrcostab, methacrylic acid alkyl monosubstituted amino Arrcostab, trialkyl methacryloxy alkylammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, the vinyl compound that the diallyl quaternary ammonium salt replaces, with have ring-type cationic nitrogenous ring such as pyridine, the vinyl quaternary ammonium monomer of imidazoles and quaternized ketopyrrolidine, for example alkyl vinyl imidazoles, alkylvinylpyridines, alkyl vinyl ketopyrrolidine salt.These monomeric moieties are preferably low alkyl group, as C 1-C 3Alkyl, more preferably C 1And C 2Alkyl.The vinyl monomer that is suitable for amine replacement of the present invention comprises propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, methacrylic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylamide and dialkyl aminoalkyl Methacrylamide.Wherein, the preferred C of alkyl 1-C 7Alkyl, more preferably C 1-C 3Alkyl.
Cationic polymer among the present invention can comprise the mixture of the monomeric unit that is obtained by the monomer of amine and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted and/or compatibility spacer monomers.
The example of suitable cationic hair conditioning polymer comprises: the copolymer of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazole salt (as chloride salt) (also being referred to as polyquaternium-16 by " CTFA " industrial), as from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, New Jersey, the commodity that U.S.A.) are purchased are called those of LUVIQUAT (as LUVIQUATFC 370); The copolymer of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl acrylate methyl base amino-ethyl ester (also being referred to as polyquaternium-11) by " CTFA " industrial, as from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, the commodity that U.S.A.) are purchased are called those of GAFQUAT (as GAFOUAT 755N); Cationic diallyl contains quaternary ammonium polymer, for example comprise: the copolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer and acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride is referred to as polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7 by " CTFA " respectively industrial; And as US 4,009, the inorganic acid salt of the homopolymer of 256 described unsaturated carboxylic acids with 3-5 carbon atom and the amino-Arrcostab of copolymer.
Other suitable cationic polymer is the both sexes ter-polymers of being made up of acrylic acid methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid methyl ester., has the structure that is referred to as Polyquaternium 47 in industry (CTFA) as follows.The example of suitable commercially available prod is MERQUAT 2001 , wherein, n 6: n 7: n 8Ratio be 45: 45: 10, sell by Calgon Corp.
Figure 9881124400211
Other adoptable cationic polymer comprises polysaccharide polymer, as cationic cellulose derivative and cationic starch derivative.
Be applicable to that cationic polysaccharide polymer of the present invention comprises those of following formula:
Figure 9881124400212
Wherein, Z 7Be the anhydroglucose residue, as starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residue; R 119Be alkylidene oxygen base alkylidene, many oxyalkylenes or hydroxy alkylidene group, or its combination; R 120, R 121And R 122Be alkyl, aryl, alkaryl, aralkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxy aryl independently of one another, each group comprises about at the most 18 carbon atoms, and the total carbon atom number of each cationic moiety (is R 120, R 121And R 122In the total number of carbon atoms) be preferably about 20 or still less; X is foregoing anionic counter-ion.
Cationic cellulose is can (Edison, NJ is USA) with its PolymerJR from Amerchol Corp. , LR Those polymer that series polymer obtains as the epoxide of trimethyl ammonium replacement and the salt of hydroxyethyl-cellulose reaction, also are referred to as polycquaternium-10 by " CTFA " industrial.Another kind of cationic cellulose comprises and the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of the epoxide reactive hydroxy ethyl fiber of lauryl dimethyl ammonium-replacement that " CTFA " is referred to as polyquaternium-24 at industrial quilt.These materials can (Edison, NJ be USA) with trade name Polymer LM-200 from Amerchol Corp. Be purchased.
Other adoptable cationic polymer comprises the cationic guar gum derivant, and as guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, its instantiation comprises Jaguar R series, can be purchased from Celanese Corporation.Other suitable cationic polymer comprises the cellulose ether of quaternary nitrogen containing, and as US 3,962,418 is described, and etherified cellulose and starch, and as US 3,958,581 is described.The useful especially cationic polymer of the present invention comprises: Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-47 and its mixture.
Additional oiliness compound
Be used for additional oiliness compound of the present invention and comprise aliphatic alcohol and its derivant, fatty acid and its derivant and hydrocarbon.Be used for additional oiliness compound of the present invention and can be volatility or fixedness chemical compound, its fusing point is no more than about 25 ℃.Be not subjected to the restriction of any theory, believe, the penetrable hair of additional oiliness compound improves the hydroxyl bond of hair, thereby makes hair submissive.The additional oiliness compound of this section is different from aforesaid high melting compound.The non-limiting example of additional oiliness compound is stated in following document: International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, the 5th edition, 1993 and CTEA CosmeticIngredient Handbook, the 2nd edition, 1992.
Be used for aliphatic alcohol of the present invention and comprise that those have about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 aliphatic alcohol to about 22 carbon atoms.These aliphatic alcohol can be side chain or straight chain alcohol, and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohol, preferred unsaturated alcohol.The non-limiting example of these chemical compounds comprises oleyl alcohol, Palmitoleyl alcohol, isooctadecanol, different spermol, tip-nip, octyldodecanol, octyl group decanol, capryl alcohol (octyrl alcohol), capryl alcohol (caprylic alcohol), decanol and lauryl alcohol.
Be used for fatty acid of the present invention and comprise that those have about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferred about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 fatty acids to about 22 carbon atoms.These fatty acids can be side chain or straight-chain acid, and can be saturated or unsaturated acids.The example of suitable fatty acid comprises: oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid and castor oil acid.
The derivative of fatty acid that defines among the present invention and the example of fatty alcohol derivative comprise: the alkyl ether of the ester of aliphatic alcohol, alkoxy fatty alcohols, aliphatic alcohol, the alkyl ether of alkoxy fatty alcohols and large volume ester oil, and as pentaerythritol ester oil, trihydroxy methyl ester oil, citric acid ester oil, glyceryl ester oil and its mixture.The non-limiting example of derivative of fatty acid and fatty alcohol derivative comprises: methyl linoleate, Ethyl linoleate, the linoleic acid isopropyl ester, Ceraphyl 140A, acid isopropyl, ethyl oleate, oleic acid octyl group dodecyl ester, oleic acid oil base ester, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, stearic acid octyl group dodecyl ester, isostearic acid octyl group dodecyl ester, different Palmic acid octyl group dodecyl ester, different octyl pelargonate, octyl pelargonate, the own ester of isostearic acid, the isostearic acid isopropyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, the isostearic acid isopropyl ester, the isostearic acid ethyl ester, isostearic acid methyl ester and Oleth-2.Be used for the present invention's large volume ester oil such as pentaerythritol ester oil, trihydroxy methyl ester oil, citric acid ester oil and glyceryl ester oil and be molecular weight be lower than about 800, preferably be lower than about 500 those.
Be used for the hydrocarbon that hydrocarbon of the present invention is straight chain, ring-type and side chain, it can be saturated hydrocarbons or unsaturated hydrocarbons, as long as its fusing point is no more than about 25 ℃.These hydrocarbon have about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, and preferred about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, more preferably have about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms.The present invention also comprises the polymeric hydrocarbon of alkenyl monomer, as C 2-6The polymer of alkenyl monomer.These polymer can be the straight or branched polymer.Straight chain polymer has relatively short chain length usually, and total carbon atom number as previously mentioned.Branch polymer has obviously longer chain length.The number-average molecular weight of this material can change in very wide scope, but usually up to about 500, is preferably about 200 to about 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350.The present invention can also adopt various other mineral oil of level.Mineral oil is the liquefied mixture from the multiple hydrocarbon of oil acquisition.The instantiation of suitable hydrocarbon feed comprises: paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, Fancol ID, hexadecane, 2-Methylpentadecane, eicosylene, different eicosylene, tridecane, the tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutylene and its mixture.The preferred hydrocarbon that adopts is selected from mineral oil, poly ﹠ Alpha ,-olefin oil such as Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane, polybutene, polyisobutylene and its mixture.
Being used for commercially available aliphatic alcohol of the present invention and its derivant comprises: oleyl alcohol, trade name UNJECOL 90BHR, be purchased Rika from Shin Nihon, various liquid ester, trade name SCHERCEMOL series is purchased from Scher, with the own ester of isostearic acid, trade name HIS and isostearic acid isopropyl ester, trade name ZPIS is purchased the Alcohol from Kokyu.Being used for commercially available large volume ester oil of the present invention comprises: trimethylolpropane tris caprylate/three decanoins, trade name MOBIL ESTERP43 is purchased the Co from Mobil Chemical.Being used for the commercially available hydrocarbon of the present invention comprises: Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane and different eicosylene, trade name PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101A and PERMETHYL 1082, be purchased (South Plainfield New Jersey from Presperse, USA), the copolymer of isobutene. and n-butene, trade name INDOPOL H-100, be purchased (Chicago Illinois from Amoco Chemicals, USA), mineral oil, trade name BENOL, be purchased from Wltco, isoparaffin, trade name ISOPAR is purchased (the Houston Texas from Exxon Chemical Co., USA), poly decene, trade name PURESYN 6, are purchased the Co. from Mobil Chemical.
Non-ionic polymers
The non-ionic polymers that adopts among the present invention comprises the polymer of cellulose derivative, ethylene oxide polymer and the ethylene oxide/propylene oxide base of cellulose derivative, hydrophobically modified.Suitable non-ionic polymers is a cellulose derivative, comprises methylcellulose, trade name BENECEL, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, trade name NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose, trade name KLUCEL, the cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose, trade name POLYSURF 67, all are purchased from Herculus.Other suitable non-ionic polymers is the polymer of oxirane and/or expoxy propane base, trade name CARBOWAX PEGs, and POLYOXWASRs and UCONFLUIDS all are purchased from Amerchol.
Poly alkylene glycol
Poly alkylene glycol has following general formula: Wherein, R 201Be selected from H, methyl and its mixture.Work as R 201During for H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, also are referred to as polyethylene oxide, polyoxyethylene and Polyethylene Glycol.Work as R 201During for methyl, these materials are the polymer of expoxy propane, also are referred to as polypropylene oxide, polyoxypropylene and polypropylene glycol.Be further appreciated that and work as R 201During for H, there is the isomer of all places in formed polymer.
In said structure, x 3Meansigma methods be about 1500 to about 25,000, preferred about 2500 to about 20,000, more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000.
Other useful polymer comprises polypropylene glycol and blended polyethylene/polypropylene glycol.
Being used for polyethylene glycol polymer of the present invention is PEG-2M, wherein, and R 201Be H, x 3Meansigma methods be that about 2,000 (PEG-2M also is referred to as Polyox WSR N-10 is purchased the Carbide from Union, is PEG-2,000); PEG-5M, wherein, R 201Be H, x 3Meansigma methods be that about 5,000 (PEG-5M also is referred to as Polyox WSR N-35 and Polyox WSR N-80 all is purchased the Carbide from Union, is PEG-5, and 000 and Liquid Macrogol, 000); PEG-7M, wherein, R 201Be H, x 3Meansigma methods be that about 7,000 (PEG-7M also is referred to as Polyox WSR N-750 is purchased the Carbide from Union); PEG-9M, wherein, R 201Be H, x 3Meansigma methods be that about 9,000 (PEG 9-M also is referred to as Polyox WSR N-3333 is purchased the Carbide from Union); And PEG-14M, wherein, R 201Be H, x 3Meansigma methods be that about 14,000 (PEG-14M also is referred to as Polyox WSR N-3000 is purchased the Carbide from Union).
Other supplementary element
Compositions of the present invention can comprise various other supplementary elements, and these compositions can be selected according to the required characteristic of finished product by those skilled in the art, and they should be suitable for making compositions from cosmetics or aestheticly be easier to accept or provide additional purposes.With composition weight meter, these additional other compositions content separately is generally about 0.001 to about 10%, and preferably about at the most 5%.
Various other supplementary elements all can be prepared and enter in the present composition.These compositions comprise: other conditioner, and as hydrolytic collagen, commodity are called Peptein 2000, commercially available from Hormel, vitamin E, commodity are called Emix-d, commercially available from Eisai, pantothenylol, commercially available from Roche, general thiazolinyl (panthenyl) ethylether, commercially available from Roche, hydrolysis of keratin, protein, plant extract, and nutrient substance; Hair fixing copolymer is as both sexes styling polymer, cationic styling polymers, anionic shaped polymer, nonionic styling polymer and polysiloxane grafted copolymer; Antiseptic such as benzyl alcohol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and imidazolidinyl urea; The pH regulator agent is as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; Salt is usually as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; Coloring agent is as any FD﹠amp; C or D﹠amp; The C dyestuff; Hair oxidation (bleaching) agent is as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate; Hair Reducing agent such as thioglycolate salt; Spice; And chelating agen, as disodiumedetate; Ultraviolet and infrared sun-proof and absorbent are as ethylhexyl salicylate and dandruff removing agent such as Zinc Pyrithione; And fluorescent whitening agent, as polyvinyl base stilbene, triazine radical stilbene, Hydroxycoumarin, aminocoumarin, triazole, pyrazoline, oxazole, pyrene, porphyrin, imidazoles and its mixture.
Embodiment
Following embodiment further describes and illustrates the embodiment in the scope of the invention.These embodiment only are used for illustration purpose, are not limitation of the scope of the invention, can carry out multiple change to it under the prerequisite that does not deviate from the spirit and scope of the invention.Each composition provides by chemical name or CTFA name confirmation or according to following definitions.
Compositions of the present invention is applicable to eccysis product and not eccysis product, is particularly useful for making the product of emulsion, cream, gel, spray or mousse form.
Embodiment 1 to 6 is for being specially adapted to the Wo 2008069000 of the present invention of eccysis purposes.
Compositions
Figure 9881124400261
The component definition
*1 pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate: KAK PTI is purchased the alcohol from Kokyu.
*2 tetramethylolmethanes, four oleates: be purchased from Shin-NihonRika.
*3 trimethylolpropane tris oleates: Enujerubu TP3SO is purchased from Shin-NihonRika.
*4 trimethylolpropane tris isostearates: KAK TTI is purchased the alcohol from Kokyu.
*5 dihydro Adeps Bovis seu Bubali acylamino-ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl formate ammonium sulfate: Varisoft 110, are purchased from Witco.
*6 spermols: Konol series is purchased the Rika from Shin-Nihon.
*7 stearyl alcohols: Konol series is purchased the Rika from Shin-Nihon.
*8 docosyl alcohol: 1-Docosanol (97%) are purchased from Wako.
*The amino propyl-dimethyl amine of 9 stearoyls: Amidoamine MPS is purchased from Nikko.
*10 L-glutamic acid: L-glutamic acid (cosmetics-stage) is purchased from Ajinomoto.
*11 hydroxyethyl-celluloses: be purchased from Aqualon.
*12 polyoxyethylene (2000): WSR N-10 is purchased from Amerchol.
*13 Polyquatemium-10:UCARE Polymer LR 400 are purchased from Amerchol.
*14 Polyquaternium-7:Merquat S are purchased from Calgon.
*15 siloxanes blend: SE76 are purchased from GE.
*16 silicone emulsions: X65-4829 is purchased from Tosil/GE.
*17 hydrolytic collagens: Peptein2000 is purchased from Hormel.
*18 vitamin Es: Emix-d is purchased from Eisai.
*19 pantothenylol:, be purchased from Roche.
*20 pantoyl benzyl ethyl ethers: be purchased from Roche.
*21 citric acids: anhydrous citric acid is purchased from Haarman﹠amp; Reimer.
Preparation method
The compositions of embodiment 1 to 6 can adopt any conventional method preparation in the prior art as mentioned above.Their are suitable for following preparation process: if comprise in compositions, polymeric material such as hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyoxyethylene, Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-7 at room temperature be scattered in make polymer solution in the water.The polymer solution that the cationic surfactant of high melting compound, hydrophilic replacement, uncle's amidoamines and selectivity are existed mixes, and heats being higher than under 70 ℃ the temperature.The mixture that is obtained is cooled to is lower than 50 ℃, under agitation add all the other components, be cooled to about 30 ℃ then.
Perhaps, the polymer solution that high melting compound, uncle's amidoamines and selectivity are existed mixes, and heats being higher than under 70 ℃ the temperature.The mixture that is obtained is cooled to is lower than about 60 ℃, add the cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement this moment.Again with the final composition cools that obtained to being lower than 50 ℃, under agitation add all the other components, be cooled to about 30 ℃ then.
When disperseing various material if desired, can in each step, adopt triple blend machine and/or mill.
Each embodiment by previous embodiment description and explanation has many advantages.For example, they can provide persistent wetness sensation, smooth feeling and dryly right overhead be easy to carry out combing when dry, and can not make hair that the greasy dirt sense is arranged.
Should be appreciated that embodiment of the present invention and embodiment only are used for illustration purpose, for a person skilled in the art, under the prerequisite that does not deviate from the spirit and scope of the invention, can provide various variations.

Claims (9)

1, a kind of Wo 2008069000, it comprises:
(1) it is about 800 that a kind of water-insoluble high molecular weight ester oil, its molecular weight are at least, and is liquid in the time of 25 ℃, described high-molecular weight ester grease separation from:
A) pentaerythritol ester oil of following formula:
Figure 9881124400021
Wherein, R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be to have 1 straight chain, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl independently of one another to about 30 carbon atoms;
B) the trihydroxy methyl ester oil of following formula: Wherein, R 11Be to have 1 alkyl, R to about 30 carbon atoms 12, R 13And R 14Be to have 1 straight chain, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl, aryl and alkaryl independently of one another to about 30 carbon atoms;
With its mixture;
(2) cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement;
(3) fusing point is at least 25 ℃ high melting compound; With
(4) a kind of aqueous carrier.
2, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1, wherein, high-molecular weight ester grease separation is from pentaerythritol ester oil, wherein R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be to have about 8 straight chains, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl independently of one another to about 22 carbon atoms; Trihydroxy methyl ester oil, wherein R 11Be ethyl, R 12, R 13And R 14Be to have 8 straight chains, side chain, saturated or undersaturated alkyl independently of one another to about 22 carbon atoms; With its mixture.
3, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1; wherein, the cationic surfactant of hydrophilic replacement is selected from: dialkyl group acylamino-ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, dialkyl group acylamino-ethyl dimethyl ammonium, two alkanoyl ethyl-hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts, two alkanoyl ethyl dimethyl ammoniums and its mixture.
4, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1, wherein, high melting compound is selected from: spermol, stearyl alcohol, pure and mild its mixture of docosane.
5, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 4, wherein, with composition weight meter, the content of high melting compound surpasses about 4% weight.
6,, also comprise and have about 12 uncle's amidoamines to the alkyl of about 22 carbon atoms according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1.
7, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 6, also comprise a kind of acid, this acid is selected from: L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride and its mixture; The molar ratio of uncle's amidoamines and described acid is about 1: 0.3 to about 1: 2.
8, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1, also comprise a kind of silicone compounds.
9, according to the Wo 2008069000 of claim 1, it comprises:
(1) about 0.1% to about 20% high molecular ester oil;
(2) cationic surfactant of about 0.1% to about 20% hydrophilic replacement;
(3) about 4% to about 8% high melting compound; With
(4) water.
CN98811244A 1997-09-17 1998-06-04 Conditioning shampoo composition comprising pantaerythritol ester oil Pending CN1279600A (en)

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USPCT/US97/16403 1997-09-17
PCT/US1997/016403 WO1999013824A1 (en) 1997-09-17 1997-09-17 Hair care compositions comprising bulky optical brighteners
PCT/US1997/020736 WO1999024014A1 (en) 1997-11-12 1997-11-12 Hair conditioning compositions comprising hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants and high melting point compounds
USPCT/US97/20736 1997-11-12

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CN104135991A (en) * 2012-03-16 2014-11-05 莱雅公司 A composition for cleansing keratin fibres
CN108601717A (en) * 2016-03-30 2018-09-28 拜尔斯道夫股份有限公司 Hair conditioning composition comprising pentaerythritol ester and PPG alkyl ether
CN110636829A (en) * 2017-05-19 2019-12-31 宝洁公司 Hair care compositions comprising triester compounds and fatty acid esters of benzoic acid

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AU3869099A (en) * 1999-04-27 2000-11-10 Procter & Gamble Company, The Hair conditioning compositions
AU5704899A (en) * 1999-09-03 2001-04-10 Procter & Gamble Company, The A process for forming a hair care composition and a composition formed by same
MX234468B (en) * 2000-03-14 2006-02-15 Procter & Gamble Hair care composition containing a polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine.
JP2002293719A (en) * 2001-03-29 2002-10-09 Asahi Denka Kogyo Kk Hair treating agent composition
DE102008060147A1 (en) * 2008-12-03 2010-06-10 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hair conditioning agents with imidazolines and ester oils
DE102009047528A1 (en) * 2009-12-04 2011-06-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of ester oil in permanent hair shaping processes

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GB9109734D0 (en) * 1991-05-07 1991-06-26 Unilever Plc Cosmetic composition
DE4337169A1 (en) * 1993-10-30 1995-05-04 Hartmann Haarkosmetik Gmbh Hair treatment composition, in particular for styling, which is in emulsion form and contains no hair-setting polymers or resins
CA2274109A1 (en) * 1996-12-06 1998-06-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair conditioning compositions comprising water-insoluble high molecular weight oily compound

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104135991A (en) * 2012-03-16 2014-11-05 莱雅公司 A composition for cleansing keratin fibres
CN108601717A (en) * 2016-03-30 2018-09-28 拜尔斯道夫股份有限公司 Hair conditioning composition comprising pentaerythritol ester and PPG alkyl ether
CN110636829A (en) * 2017-05-19 2019-12-31 宝洁公司 Hair care compositions comprising triester compounds and fatty acid esters of benzoic acid

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