CN1261779A

CN1261779A - Skin care compositions

Info

Publication number: CN1261779A
Application number: CN98806654.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: G·E·戴克纳; J·P·小萨诺吉拉; J·M·朱考斯基
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 1997-05-23
Filing date: 1998-05-18
Publication date: 2000-08-02
Also published as: AU7496498A; WO1998052536A1; EP0986368A1; USH2043H1; JP2001517244A

Abstract

Disclosed are skin care compositions containing retinoids which generally improve the quality of the skin, particularly human facial skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to retinol containing skin care compositions with improved skin compatiblity.

Description

Skin care compositions and methods

Technical field

The present invention relates to contain the skin care compositions and methods of retinoid, retinoid can improve skin quality usually, especially improve human face's skin quality.More specifically, the present invention relates to contain the skin care compositions and methods that improves skin-friendliness that has of retinol.

Background of invention

Many personal care products that present consumer can buy mainly are in order to improve skin health and/or physical appearance.In these skin-protection products, many be devoted to delay, alleviate or even eliminate wrinkle of skin and other permanent pathological changes, these generally are relevant to the infringement of human body skin with skin aging or environment.

Skin stands the infringement of many external and intrinsic factor.Extrinsic factor comprises ultraviolet radiation (as from being exposed to sunlight), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, zest surfactant, abrasive material etc.Intrinsic factor comprise the chronic aging of skin inside and other biochemical variation.These external and intrinsic factors all cause the witness marking of skin aging and environmental injury, as the roughening (comprising patulous follicular orifice, peeling and microgroove) of wrinkle and other form, and the permanent change relevant with infringement with other and skin aging.For many people, wrinkle of skin is to pass in the expression youth.Therefore, smooth away wrinkles and become the hot issue of society with rejuvenation consciousness.Care method from cosmetics emulsifiable paste and humidizer to various forms of external agent.

External and intrinsic factor can cause thinning of skin and common degeneration.For example, along with the skin natural aging, cell and the blood vessel of supplying with skin reduce.And corium-epidermis connects and flattens, and makes the mechanical resistance power of this connection poorer.For example see Oikarinen " skin aging: chronic aging and photoaging ", Photodermato1 Photoimmuno1 Photomed., the 7th volume, the 3-4 page or leaf, is incorporated herein for reference at nineteen ninety in the document.

Retinoid can be used as wrinkle resistant activating agent and has obtained everybody common recognition, and it can reduce subcutaneous aging action, as wrinkle, telencephalization, cutis laxa, coarse, drying and mottle (over-drastic pigmentation) (with reference to the United States Patent (USP) 4 of Kligman, 603,146 and 4,877,805).It is believed that retinoid has an effect by producing inflammation, inflammation can cause that epidermis thickens (acanthosis) and local intercellular edema and causes skin exfoliation.

When preparation contains the product of retinoid, attach great importance to the compositions that provides such, promptly it can carry and keep the optium concentration of retinoid in horny layer, and the amount that will absorb systemic circulation reduces to minimum.In addition, use the custom of raising on a household basis the growth stage use also very important.But present retinoid product can cause dry and have zest, can cause excessive decortication.Such product can cause that user fears often to use the retinoid product, is that to reach optimum efficiency necessary and often use.

The present inventor finds to comprise natural or synthetic retinoid chemical compound and can have the advantage of the adjusting skin of retinoid chemical compound as the formaldehyde donor antiseptic ingredient of antiseptic and the compositions of halo propinyl compound, and has less drying property and/or zest.The user is easier to accept these compositionss, therefore can make the user experience the advantage that life-time service has.

Therefore an object of the present invention is to provide the skin care compositions and methods that contains retinoid with improved skin-friendliness.

Another object of the present invention provides the retinoid compositions that contains protective system, and this protective system can have the antiseptical activity under quite low concentration.

Another object of the present invention provides the retinoid compositions that contains protective system, and this protective system does not influence the stability or the biological effectiveness of retinoid basically.

These and other objects of the present invention following be conspicuous in open.

Summary of the invention

The present invention relates to skin care compositions and methods, said composition comprises:

A) retinoid; With

B) antiseptic ingredient, this component comprises:

I) formaldehyde donor; With

Ii) the halo propinyl compound is selected from the propargyl ester of iodo, ether, acetal, carbamate and carbonic ester.

The invention further relates to the method for regulating skin condition.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

Here all percents and ratio, according to the composition total weight meter, all are determined under 25 ℃ carries out, except as otherwise noted.

Compositions of the present invention can comprise basis and non-essential composition and composition described here, or is grouped into or is grouped into by these one-tenth basically by these one-tenth." being grouped into by these one-tenth basically " described here is meant that compositions or component can comprise other composition, needs only the claimed compositions of the not obvious change of this other composition or basic and characteristic novelty of method.

Here therefore the publication of being quoted is incorporated herein by reference in full.

Here compositions of the present invention is used or sprawled to " local application " sensing skin surface.

Here term " acceptable on the Dermatology " refers to that described compositions or component are suitable for contacting with human body skin, not toxicity, incompatibility, unstability, anaphylaxis etc. improperly.

Here term " safe and effective amount " refers to such chemical compound or compositions consumption, it can obviously produce beneficial effect, preferred useful skin appearance or skin effects, comprise said various benefits respectively here, but can avoid serious adverse, as producing reasonable benefit evil ratio, this consumption is in the scope of technical staff's reasonable judgement.

Here term " skin-friendliness " refers to that the skin withstand prolonged is used topical composition and the ability of having only minimum adverse effect, disadvantageous reaction such as sensation of pricking, burning sensation, rubescent, itch and folliculitis.

The present composition is used for local application and regulates skin, comprise visible and/or can tactile skin inhomogeneities (skin surface especially; These inhomogeneities are not normally expected).These inhomogeneities can be that inherence and/or extrinsic factor cause, and comprise skin aging signal described here." adjusting skin " comprises preventative and curative adjusting skin, comprises the visible of skin and/or can tactile inhomogeneities.Here preventative adjusting skin comprise delay, minimized and/or prevent the visible of skin and/or can tactile inhomogeneities.The therapeutic regulation skin here comprises improvement, as reducing, minimize and/or eliminate the inhomogeneities of skin.Regulating skin relates to and improves skin appearance and/or sensation.

The present composition is used to regulate the skin aging signal, more especially relevant with old saying skin visible and/or can tactile inhomogeneities." regulate skin aging " and comprise one or more these class signals of preventative and curative adjusting (similarly, reconcile the signal of giving of skin aging,, comprise preventative and/or curative this signal of adjusting) as streakline, wrinkle or pore.Here preventative this signal of adjusting comprises and delays, minimizes and/or stop the skin aging signal.Here this signal of therapeutic regulation comprises improvement, as reducing, minimize and/or eliminate the skin aging signal.

" skin aging signal " includes but not limited to that all are external visible and/or can tactile performance and the effect that belongs to skin aging of other any macroscopic view or microcosmic.These signals can be by inherence and extrinsic factor, cause as chronic aging and/or environmental injury.These signals can produce from following process, include but not limited to: the development of quality inhomogeneities, as wrinkle, comprise surface fine crack and coarse dark stricture of vagina, the skin streakline, crackle, swollen prominent, enlarged pores is (as relevant with accessory structure, as sweat gland, sebaceous gland and hair follicle), peeling, the pachylosis of desquamation and/or other form or injustice, skin elasticity forfeiture (proteic loss of functional skin elasticity and/or inactivation), sagging (comprising eye pouch and jowl edema), the loss of skin robustness, the skin loss in toughness, because deformed skin bounce loss, variable color (comprising zone now), speckle, the complexion sallow, dark district, as senile plaque, freckle, horn, unusual aberration, excessive keratinization, elestosis, collagen destroys, with other at horny layer, epidermis, corium, skin vascular system (as telangiectasis and spider shape blood vessel), and subcutaneous tissue, especially with the permanent change of skin adjacent areas.

Be appreciated that to the invention is not restricted to regulate above-mentioned because " the skin aging signal " that skin aging mechanism causes, and be meant and comprise and regulating and the irrelevant described signal of origin mechanism.Here " adjusting skin " is meant and comprises adjusting and these irrelevant signals of origin mechanism.

The present invention is particularly useful for the visible of therapeutic regulation mammal skin quality and/or can tactile inhomogeneities, comprises the quality inhomogeneities relevant with skin aging.Here this inhomogeneities of therapeutic regulation comprises improvement, for example reduce, minimize and/or eliminate inhomogeneities visible and/or can tactile mammal skin quality, thereby provide improved skin appearance and/or sensation, as more smooth, more uniform outer appearance and sensation.This visible and/or can tactile skin quality inhomogeneities comprise that the quality relevant with skin aging of crackle, lump, pore, microgroove, wrinkle, peeling, desquamation and/or other form is inhomogeneous or coarse.For example, the length of strain line and/or wrinkle, the degree of depth and/or other size reduce, and the outward appearance diameter in hole reduces, or with the outward appearance height of the tissue of pore opening direct neighbor height near interior attached skin.

The present invention is particularly useful for the visible of preventative adjusting mammal quality and/or can tactile various inhomogeneities, comprises the quality inhomogeneities relevant with skin aging.These inhomogeneities of preventative adjusting here comprise and delay, minimize and/or stop the visible of mammal skin quality and/or can tactile inhomogeneities, thereby provide the skin appearance and/or the sensation of improvement, as more smooth, more uniform outer appearance and/or sensation.

Necessary group categories visual pigment component

The necessary component of the present composition is retinoid or retinoid compounds.Here " retinoid " of Cai Yonging comprises all natural and/or synthetic congeners of vitamin A or retinoid chemical compound, and they have the biological activity of vitamin A in skin, and the geometric isomer of these chemical compounds and stereoisomer.Retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol ester (as the C2-C22 Arrcostab of retinol, comprise retinyl palmitate, retinol acetate, propanoic acid retinol ester), retinal and/or tretinoin (comprising that all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-are along tretinoin), the more preferably retinoid except that tretinoin.These chemical compounds be know in this area and commercially available from various sources, as sigma chemical company (St. Louis, MO), and BoerhingerMannheim (Indianapolis, IN).Here other retinoid of Cai Yonging is described in USP4677120, authorizes people such as Parish on June 30th, 1987; December was authorized people such as Parish on the 5th in 4885311,1989 years; JIUYUE was authorized people such as Purcell on the 17th in 5049584,1991 years; Authorized people such as Purcell on June 23rd, 5124356,1992; Authorized people such as Purcell on the 22nd with 34075,1992 years JIUYUE of Reissue.Other retinoid that is suitable for is tretinoin Renascin [(suitable or anti-) tretinoin Renascin, adapalene{6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid } and tazarotene (6-[2-(4, the 4-dimethyl disulfide is for benzodihydropyran-6-yl)-acetenyl] ethyl nicotinate).Here use one or more retinoids.Preferred retinoid is retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinol acetate, propanoic acid retinol ester, retinal and combination thereof.More preferably retinol and retinyl palmitate.

Retinoid can be with pure basically material, or uses to carry out the form of extract that suitable physical and/or Chemical Decomposition obtain from natural (as plant) source.The preferred class visual pigment is pure basically, and is more preferably pure in essence.

Compositions of the present invention preferably can contain the retinoid of safe and effective amount, make for regulating skin, especially regulate skin visible and/or can tactile inhomogeneities on be safety and effectively, more preferably for regulating the skin aging signal, more preferably for relevant with skin aging visible and/or can tactile skin quality inhomogeneities be safety and effective.Compositions preferably contains about 0.005% to about 2%, more preferably 0.01% to about 2% retinoid.The most preferred consumption of retinol is about 0.01% to about 0.15%; The most preferred consumption of retinol ester is about 0.01% to about 2% (according to appointment 1%); The most preferred consumption of tretinoin is about 0.01% to about 0.25%; The tretinoin Renascin [(along or anti-) Renascin of tretinoin], adapalene{6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-the 2-naphthoic acid and the most preferred consumption of tazarotene be about 0.01% to about 2%.When compositions contained retinoid, the vitamin b 3 compound preferable amount was about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%.Preservative component

Preservative component comprises formaldehyde donor and halogenated alkynyl C chemical compound, also is the necessary composition of the present composition.Preservative component of the present invention does not have adverse effect basically to the stability of activating agent." do not have adverse effect basically " here and refer in compositions, to add after the preservative component under temperature is 40 ℃ condition, only produce inactive catabolite after experiencing time of 1 month less than 10% activating agent generation chemical degradation or other change.

The formaldehyde donor that is fit to has with the personal care product uses compatible chemistry and physical characteristic.When use with skin on the time, such product is free from extraneous odour nonirritating or atoxic preferably.The formaldehyde donor that is fit to comprises dihydroxymethyl dimethyl hydantion, N; N "-di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide [N '-[(methylol)-2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl] urea], N-(methylol)-N-(1,3-dihydroxymethyl-2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl)-N '-(methylol) urea, 1-(3-chloro-pi-allyl)-3,5, the cis-isomer of 7-three azepines-1-nitrogen diamantane (obsolete) chlorination sodium hydroxy methyl glycinate, Er Jia oxazolin 7-ethyl Er Huan oxazolidine, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-glycol, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-diox and composition thereof.

The halo propinyl compound that is fit to comprises those chemical compounds derived from propargyl alcohol or iodo propargyl alcohol, iodo propargyl derivant as its ester, ether, acetal, carbamate and carbonic ester and pyrimidine, Triazolinones, tetrazolium, triazinone, sulphamide, benzothiazole, ammonium salt, Methanamide, hydroxamate, urea and chemical compound thereof.Carbamic acid 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl ester (IPBC) preferably in these chemical compounds.This chemical compound is included in the widely used chemical compound with following general formula. Wherein R is selected from the alkyl that contains 1 to 20 carbon atom, aryl, the alkylaryl of replacement or non-replacement, and m and n are 1 to 3 integer independently.

The weight rate of two kinds of components changes with the concrete component of concrete application and selection.In a broad sense, the weight rate of first kind of component and second kind of component is about 2000: 1 to about 1: 1, is preferably about 500: 1 to about 1: 1, most preferably is about 200: 1 to about 1: 1.The concentration of antiseptic ingredient of the present invention is about 0.001% to about 5%, is preferably about 0.01% to about 3%, more preferably about 0.01% to about 2%, especially more preferably about 0.05% to about 1%, most preferably is about 0.05% to about 0.2%.

Non-essential component carrier

The present composition comprise about 1% to about 99.5% the Dermatology acceptable carrier, combine essential retinoid and preservative component and non-other essential material therein, by carrier these components are delivered on the skin with debita spissitudo.Therefore carrier can be the diluent, dispersant, solvent of active matter etc., and it makes active matter to apply and to be evenly distributed to selected destination by debita spissitudo.

Carrier can contain acceptable solid-state, semisolid on one or more skins and liquid filler, diluent, solvent, extender etc.Carrier can be solid-state, semisolid or liquid state.Preferred carrier is liquid basically.Carrier itself can be inert, or itself also can have the effectiveness on the Dermatology.The concentration of carrier can be with selected carrier, the desired concn of basis and non-essential component and changing.

Appropriate carriers comprises acceptable traditional and other known carrier on the Dermatology.Carrier also should be physically and chemically compatible with the basis here, and does not answer the excessive influence stability relevant with the present composition, effectiveness and other result of use.The preferred component of the present composition should mix by this way, makes the interaction of not having the efficient when obviously the reduction compositions is used under normal conditions take place.

The type of used carrier of the present invention depends on the product form that compositions is required.Topical compositions of the present invention can be made many kinds product form known in the art.These include but not limited to: thin liquid, emulsifiable paste, gel, bar rod, spray, ointment, paste, mousse and cosmetics (as solid-state, semisolid or liquid cosmetic, comprising foundation cream, eye cosmetic, painted or colourless lip articles for use, as lip pomade etc.).These product forms can comprise the carrier of several types, include but not limited to solution, aerosol, Emulsion, gel, solid and liposome.

Preferred carrier contains acceptable hydrophilic diluent on the Dermatology.Here the material that " diluent " is included in wherein, and granular materials can disperse, dissolve or be incorporated into other form.The limiting examples of hydrophilic diluent comprises water, organic hydrophilic diluent, as low-grade monobasic alcohol (C1-C4) and low-molecular-weight diol and how pure, comprise propylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol (as molecular weight 200-600g/mol), polypropylene glycol (as molecular weight 425-2025g/mol), glycerol, butanediol, 1,2,4-butantriol, sorbitol ester, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, sorbitol ester, butanediol, ether propanol, ethoxylated ether, propoxylated ether and its combination.Water is preferable absorbent.Compositions preferably contains about 60% to about 99.99% hydrophilic diluent.

Solution of the present invention generally comprises receivable hydrophilic diluent on the Dermatology.Solution of the present invention preferably contains about 60% to about 99.99% hydrophilic diluent.

Can form aerosol of the present invention by propellant being added above-mentioned solution.The propellant of illustrative comprises the low-molecular-weight hydrocarbon of chlorofluorination.Other propellant used herein is described in cosmetic science and the technology of Sagarin, and the 2nd edition, 443-465 page or leaf (1972) introduces that this is for reference.Aerosol generally is applied on the skin with the spray product form.

Preferred carrier comprises the emulsion by aqueous favoring and hydrophobic phase composition, and aqueous favoring comprises hydrophilic component such as water or other hydrophilic diluent, hydrophobic hydrophobic components such as fat, oil or the oily substance of comprising mutually.Known as those skilled in the art, aqueous favoring is dispersed in dredges aqueous phase or opposite, thereby forms hydrophilic or hydrophobic dispersion and continuous phase respectively, and this mainly decides according to the component of compositions.In emulsion technology, term " decentralized photo " is for the known term of those skilled in the art, and decentralized photo refers to the phase that is suspended in the continuous phase or is surrounded by continuous phase with granule or drop.Decentralized photo is also referred to as inner phase or discontinuous phase.Emulsion can be or comprise (as in three-phase or other multi-phase emulsion) O/w emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion such as polysiloxanes bag aqueous emulsion.O/w emulsion typically comprises about 1% to about 50% dispersive hydrophobic phase and about 1% to about 98% successive aqueous favoring; Water-in-oil emulsion typically comprise about 1% to about 98% dispersive aqueous favoring with about 1% to about 50% successive mutually hydrophobic.Emulsion also can comprise gel network, as document the application of the stability of emulsion principle of semi-solid O/w emulsion " flow and ", and cosmetics and toilet articles, Vol.101, in November, 1986, the 73-92 page or leaf, described in, be incorporated herein the document as a reference.Preferred emulsions further describes hereinafter.

Topical compositions of the present invention (including but not limited to thin liquid and cream forms) can contain acceptable softening agent on a kind of Dermatology.Such compositions preferably contains 2% to about 50% the softening agent of having an appointment.Softening agent is used for lubricated skin, increases the smooth and flexibility of skin, and prevent or alleviate xerosis cutis, and/or protection skin.Softening agent is generally water-insoluble oily or waxy substance.Known have a variety of suitable softening agents to use at this.At Sagarin, cosmetic science and technology. second edition, introduced the embodiment that much is suitable as the material of softening agent among the Vol.1.pp.32-43 (1972), this paper is incorporated herein by reference.

Usually contain a solution carrier system and one or more softening agents according to thin liquid of the present invention and emulsifiable paste.Thin liquid is typically and contains about 1% to about softening agent of 20%, preferably about 5% to about 10%; About 50% to about water of 90%, preferably about 60% to about 80%; Emulsifiable paste is typically and contains about 5% to about softening agent of 50%, preferably about 10% to about 20%; About 45% to about water of 85%, preferably about 50% to about 75%.

Can contain a kind of common animal or plant oil or semi-solid hydrocarbon (butyrous) carrier matrix according to ointment of the present invention; Can absorb the absorption ointment substrate that water forms emulsion; Or water-solubility carrier, as the water-soluble solution carrier.Ointment also contains thickening agent, as Sagarin, and cosmetic science and technology, the thickening agent of describing in the second edition, Vol.1.pp.72-73 (1972), this paper is incorporated herein by reference; With/or softening agent.For example, ointment can contain 2% to about 10% the softening agent of having an appointment; About 0.1% to about 2% thickening agent.

The compositions that is used for cleaning of the present invention (" abluent ") prescription has suitable carriers, for example resembles described abovely, preferably contains acceptable on one or more Dermatologys, the safety that is used to clean in the compositions and the surfactant of effective dose.Preferred compositions comprise about 1% to about 90%, more preferably about 5% to about 10% the Dermatology acceptable surfactant.Suitable surfactant is selected from anion, cation, nonionic, amphion, both sexes and amphiphilic surfactant, and these surfactant mixtures.Such surfactant is thoroughly cookedly to know for the technical staff of washing technology.The non-limiting example of possible surfactant comprises isoceteth-20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, methyl oleoyl sodium taurocholate, sodium lauryl sulfate and betanin described herein.Introduced the embodiment of spendable surfactant here among people's such as mandate on January 24th, 1989 Kowez the U.S.P.No 4,800,197, this paper is quoted as a reference fully at this.Detergent and the emulsifying agent of the McCutcheon that Allured publishing company publishes.Described the embodiment of a greater variety of spendable other surfactants here in the North America version (1986), this paper is quoted as a reference fully at this.Alternatively, cleaning combination can contain normal other material that uses in cleaning combination, and the consumption of these materials is on the fixed standard of its technology.

The physical aspect of cleaning combination is not crucial.Compositions can be, fancy soap bar for example, body lotion, shampoo, shower gel, hair conditioner, hair nourishing agent, unguentum, or mousse.Because the fancy soap bar is the common form that is used to clean the cleaning reagent of skin, so fancy soap bar most preferably.Preferably rinse the cleaning combination of type,, comprise that a transmission system makes the active component of q.s attached on skin and the scalp as shampoo.Preferred transmission system relates to the use of insoluble complex.Understand the disclosure more completely of such transmission system, see the U.S.P.4 that authorized people such as Barford on May 30th, 1989,835,148, this paper is quoted as a reference fully at this.

Term used herein " foundation cream " refers to liquid, semiliquid, and semisolid, or solid cosmetics for skin, comprising water preparation, emulsifiable paste, gel, paste, muffin, and similar substance, but be not limited in this.Be typically foundation cream and on large-area skin, use,, provide special outward appearance for example at face.Foundation cream is coloured cosmetics typically, as kermes, and rouge, face powder and similar substance provide one to adhere to substrate, help to cover skin defect, for skin provides smooth, a smooth outward appearance.Foundation cream of the present invention comprises the acceptable carrier that is used for essential particulate matter on a kind of Dermatology, and comprises usual component, as oil, and coloring agent, colorant, softening agent, spice, wax, stabilizing agent, and similar substance.For example, with MarciaL.Canter, the name of Brain D.Barford and Brian D.Hofrichter describes some suitable carriers in the common unexamined patent application serial number 08/430,961 of application on April 28 nineteen ninety-five and in this other component that is suitable for, this paper is incorporated herein by reference.

Compositions of the present invention preferably pH value is 10.5 or lower.The scope of the pH value of these compositionss is preferably about 2 to about 10.5, and more preferably about 3 to about 8, especially preferred is about 5 to about 8.Preferred compositions of the present invention

Preferred topical composition of the present invention comprises a kind of emulsion.Emulsion of the present invention can contain one or more following component: a) hydrophobic components

Emulsion according to the present invention contains the hydrophobic phase that comprises fat, oil, oils or other hydrophobic components.Compositions of the present invention preferably contain account for composition weight about 1% to about 50%, preferably contain and have an appointment 1% to about 30%, more preferably contain 1% to about 10% the hydrophobic components of having an appointment.Hydrophobic components can come from animal, plant or vaseline, can be natural or synthetic (promptly synthetical).Preferred hydrophobic components is water-insoluble basically, more preferably is water-insoluble in essence.Preferably those fusing points under about 1 atmospheric pressure are about 25 ℃ or lower, and are suitable for the hydrophobic components of conditioning skin or hair.

The limiting examples of the hydrophobic components that is fit to comprises: (1) mineral oil.Mineral oil is also referred to as vaseline oil, and it is a kind of mixture of the liquid hydrocarbon that obtains from oil.With reference to Merck index, the 10th edition 7048 sections, p.1033 (1983) and international cosmetic ingredient dictionary.The 5th edition, Vol.1, p.415-417 (1993), two pieces of documents are incorporated herein by reference in full at this.(2) vaseline is also referred to as vaseline glue, and it is the colloidal dispersion that non-straight chain solid hydrocarbons and high boiling point liquid hydrocarbon are formed, and wherein most of liquid hydrocarbons all are in the micelle.With reference to Merck index, the 10th edition 7047 sections, p.1033 (1983); The medicine of Schindler and cosmetics industry, 89,36-37,76,78-80,82 (1961) and international cosmetic ingredient dictionary, the 5th edition, Vol.1, p.537 (1993), above document is incorporated herein by reference in full at this.(3) contain and have an appointment 7 to the straight chain of about 40 carbon atoms and the hydrocarbon of side chain.The limiting examples of this class hydrocarbon comprises that dodecane, Fancol ID, squalane, cholesterol, Parleam, docosane (being the C22 hydrocarbon), hexadecane, 2-Methylpentadecane are (as by Presperse (SouthPlainfield, NJ) the Permethyl  101A hydrocarbon sold of the merchant of Sheng Chaning).The isoparaffin of C7-C40 also is useful, and it is the branched-chain hydrocarbons of C7-C40.(4) the C1-C30 alcohol ester of C1-C30 carboxylic acid and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids comprises straight chain, branched material and fragrance derivatives (with reference to hydrophobic components, single and polycarboxylic acid comprises straight chain, side chain and aromatic carboxylic acids).Limiting examples comprises Dermol DIPS, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl hexadecanoate, the propanoic acid myristin, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, Dermol 105, maleic acid two 2-Octyl Nitrites, cetin, myristyl myristate, the stearic acid stearyl ester, isopropyl stearate, methyl stearate, stearic acid cetyl behenic acid Shan Yu ester, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, di-n-octyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, Octanoic acid, hexadecyl ester, the dilinoleic acid diisopropyl ester.(5) the single, double and triglyceride of C1-C30 carboxylic acid, for example caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride.(6) the alkane diol ester of C1-C30 carboxylic acid, for example the propylene glycol list and the diester of the glycol monomethyl of C1-C30 carboxylic acid and diester, C1-C30 carboxylic acid, for example diglycol stearate.(7) derivant of the propoxylation of above-mentioned substance and ethoxylation.(8) the C1-C30 list and the polyester of sugar and analog.These esters are derived from sugar or polyol structure part and one or more carboxylic acid structure part.According to the acid of forming and sugared, these esters at room temperature are liquid or solid-state.The example of liquid ester comprises four oleic acid glucose esters, the glucose tetra-ester of soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mannose four esters of blended soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, oleic galactose four esters, linoleic arabinose four esters, four linoleic acid xylose esters, five oleic acid gala sugar esters, four oleic acid sorbitol esters, unsaturated soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid sorbitol six esters, the five oleic acid esters of xylitol, four oleic acid sucrose ester, five oleic acid sucrose ester, six oleic acid sucrose ester, seven oleic acid sucrose ester, eight oleic acid sucrose ester and composition thereof.The example of solid ester comprises: sorbitol six esters, and wherein carboxylate moiety is 1: 2 palm acid ester of mol ratio and Arachidate; The Raffinose octaester, wherein carboxylate moiety is 1: 3 linoleate of mol ratio and docosane acid esters; Maltose seven esters, wherein esterification carboxylic moiety are 3: 4 Oleum Helianthi fatty acid of mol ratio and lignocerane acid esters; Sucrose octaester, wherein esterification carboxylic moiety are 2: 6 oleate of mol ratio and docosane acid esters; Sucrose octaester, wherein esterification carboxylic moiety are 1: 3: 4 laurate of mol ratio, linoleate and docosane acid esters.Preferred solid matter is a sucrose polyfatty acid esters, and wherein esterification degree is 7-8, and wherein fatty acid part is single and/or two unsaturated acids and a behenic acid of C18, and the mol ratio of two acid is 1: 7 to 3: 5.Especially preferred solid-state sugared polyester is the sucrose octaester, wherein have an appointment in the molecule 7 behenic acid structure divisions and about 1 oleic acid structure division.Other material comprises the sucrose ester of Oleum Gossypii semen or soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid.Ester is further described in following document: authorized USP2831854, USP4005196 and the USP4005195 of Jandacek on January 25th, 1977; People's such as mandate on April 26th, 1994 Letton USP5306516; People's such as mandate on April 26th, 1994 Letton USP5306515; People's such as mandate on April 26th, 1994 Letton USP5305514; People's such as mandate on January 10th, 1989 Jandacek USP4797300; People's such as mandate on June 15th, 1976 Rizzi USP3963699; Authorized the USP4518772 of Volpenhein on May 21st, 1985; With the USP4517360 that authorized Volpenhein on May 21st, 1985; All these documents all are incorporated herein by reference in full.(9) poly-organopolysiloxane oil.Poly-organopolysiloxane oil can be volatile, nonvolatile, or the mixture of volatile and nonvolatile polysiloxanes.Term " nonvolatile " refers to that at this paper those are at room temperature for liquid and have a polysiloxanes of 100 ℃ or higher flash-point (under an atmospheric pressure).Term " volatile " refers to all other polysiloxane oil at this paper.Suitable poly-organopolysiloxane can be selected from wide variety of silicone, crosses over wide volatility and range of viscosities.Nonvolatile polysiloxanes is preferred.The limiting examples of the polysiloxanes that is fit to is the USP5 that is disclosed in Orr, and in 069,897 (December was authorized on the 3rd in 1991) are incorporated herein by reference here in full.The poly-organopolysiloxane oil that is fit to comprises poly-alkylsiloxane, the poly-alkylsiloxane of ring-type and polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane.

Poly-alkylsiloxane is included in the poly-alkylsiloxane of 25 ℃ of viscosity about 0.5 to about 1,000,000 centistoke in the said composition.This alkylsiloxane of birdsing of the same feather flock together can general formula R ₃SiO[R ₂SiO] _xSiR ₃Representative, wherein R is that (preferred R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl for the alkyl of C1-C30; In with a part, also can have different alkyl), x is 0 to about 10,000 integer, selects x can obtain required about molecular weight more than 10,000,000 that reaches.Be purchased poly-alkylsiloxane and comprise polydimethylsiloxane, also claim dimethicone, the example to comprise the Vicasil that General Electric Co. Limited sells ^The Dow Corning that series and Dow Corning Corporation sell ^200 series.The instantiation of suitable polydimethylsiloxane comprises Dow Corning ^200 fluids, its viscosity 0.65 centistoke, 100 ℃ of boiling points, Dow Corning ^225 fluids, viscosity 10 centistokes, boiling point is greater than 200 ℃ and Dow Corning ^200 fluids, viscosity are respectively 50,350 and 12,500 centistokes, and boiling point is greater than 200 ℃.Suitable dimethicone comprises those chemical formulas (CH ₃) ₃SiO[(CH ₃) ₂SiO] _x[CH ₃RSiO] _ySi (CH ₃) ₃Representative, wherein R is the straight or branched of 2 to 30 carbon atoms, x and y respectively are 1 or bigger integer, select x and y can obtain to reach about required molecular weight more than 10,000,000.The example of the dimethicone that these alkyl replace comprises cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone.

The poly-alkylsiloxane of ring-type that is applicable to compositions comprises those chemical formulas [SiR ₂-O] _nRepresentative, wherein R is that alkyl (preferred R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and n are about 3 to about 8 integer, more preferably from about 3 to about 7 integer and most preferably from about 4 to about 6 integer.When R was methyl, these materials were commonly referred to as SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330.Be purchased SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 and comprise Dow Corning ^244 fluids, viscosity 2.5 centistokes, 172 ℃ of boiling points, it mainly contains ring first four polysiloxanes (being n=4), Dow Corning ^344 fluids, viscosity 2.5 centistokes, 178 ℃ of boiling points, it mainly contains ring first five polysiloxanes (being n=5), Dow Corning ^245 fluids, viscosity 4.2 centistokes, 205 ℃ of boiling points, it mainly contains the mixture and the Dow Corning of ring first four polysiloxanes and ring first five polysiloxanes (being n=4 and 5) ^345 fluids, viscosity 4.5 centistokes, 217 ℃ of boiling points, it mainly contains the mixture of ring first four polysiloxanes, ring first five polysiloxanes and ring first six polysiloxanes (being n=4,5 and 6).

Material as the trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis also is suitable for, and it is corresponding to general formula [(CH ₂) ₃SiO _1/2] _x[SiO ₂] _yPolymer, wherein x is about 1 to about 500 integer, y is about 1 to about 500 integer.Being purchased the trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis is conduct and dimethicone Dow Corning ^593 fluidic mixture are sold.

Dimethicone alcohol also is applicable to compositions.This compounds can be used chemical formula R ₃SiO[R ₂SiO] _xSiR ₂OH and HOR ₂SiO[R ₂SiO] _xSiR ₂OH represents that wherein R is that alkyl (preferred R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x are 0 to about 500 integer, selects x to obtain required molecular weight.Being purchased dimethicone generally is to sell (as Dow Corning with the mixture of dimethicone or SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 ^1401,1402 and 1403 fluids).

The polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane also is applicable to compositions.Especially viscosity about 15 is to the PSI of about 65 centistokes (25 ℃).

Here preferably poly-organopolysiloxane is selected from: the dimethicone that poly-alkylsiloxane, alkyl replace, SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330, trimethicone esters of silicon acis, dimethicone alcohol, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane and composition thereof.Here more preferably poly-alkylsiloxane and SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330.Dimethicone preferably in poly-alkylsiloxane.(10) vegetable oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil.The example of vegetable oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil comprises safflower oil, Oleum Ricini, cocos nucifera oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, pilchardine, palm-kernel oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Oleum Glycines, rapeseed oil, Semen Lini oil, Testa oryzae oil, Oleum Pini, Oleum sesami, Oleum Helianthi, hydrogenation safflower oil, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenation cocos nucifera oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenation pilchardine, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated groundnut, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenation rapeseed oil, hydrogenation Semen Lini oil, hydrogenation Testa oryzae oil, hydrogenation Oleum sesami, hydrogenation Oleum Helianthi, and composition thereof.(11) tallow and oil are as lanoline and derivant thereof, cod-liver oil.(12) following material also is suitable for: the C4-C20 alkyl ether of polypropylene glycol, the C1-C20 carboxylate of polypropylene glycol, and two C8-C30 alkyl ethers.The limiting examples of these materials comprises PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, octyl ether, dodecyl Octyl Ether and composition thereof.

B) hydrophilic component

Emulsion of the present invention also comprises hydrophilic component, as water or other hydrophilic diluent.Therefore aqueous favoring can comprise the combination of water or water and one or more water solublity or water dispersible composition.Hydrophilic component preferably comprises water.

C) other component

Emulsion of the present invention and other topical compositions can comprise multiple other composition disclosed herein.It will be understood by those skilled in the art that institute will mainly be distributed in aqueous favoring or hydrophobic phase to component, this depends on the hydrophilic of component in the compositions.

Emulsion of the present invention preferably comprises one or more chemical compounds that is selected from emulsifying agent, surfactant, structure reagent and thickening agent.(1) emulsifier/surfactant

Emulsion can contain emulsifying agent and/or surfactant, helps dispersion and the suspension of discontinuous phase in continuous phase usually.Can from multiple this class reagent, choose.Compositions can adopt known or conventional emulsifier/surfactant, if solvent chemistry and physical compatibility in reagent of choosing and the compositions, and required dispersing character is provided.Suitable reagent comprises non-siloxanes emulsifier/surfactant, silicone emulsifiers/surfactant and composition thereof of containing.

In preferred embodiments, compositions comprises hydrophilic emulsifying agent or surfactant.The present composition preferably comprises about 0.05% to about 5%, more preferably from about O.05% to about 1% at least a hydrophilic surfactant.Bound by theory does not think that hydrophilic surfactant helps hydrophobic substance such as the dispersion of hydrophobic structure reagent in aqueous favoring.Minimum surfactant must be enough hydrophilic to be scattered in aqueous favoring.Preferred surfactants be HLB at least about 8 those.The surfactant of specifically choosing depends on the pH of compositions and other component of existence thereof.

Preferred hydrophilic surfactant is selected from non-ionic surface active agent.Those can briefly be defined as the condensation product of long-chain alcohol (as C8-C30 alcohol) and sugar or starch polymer, and promptly glucosides belongs to and is applicable in the non-ionic surface active agent of the present invention.This compounds can be used formula (S) n-O-R tabular form, and S is sugar moieties such as glucose, fructose, mannose and galactose in the formula, and n is the integer of about 1-about 1000, and R is the C8-C30 alkyl.The long-chain alcohol example that derives alkyl comprises decanol, spermol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol etc.These surfactant preferred examples comprise that S is that glucose moiety, R are that C8-C20 alkyl, n are those chemical compounds of about 9 integers of about 1-.Commercially available example comprises decyl polysaccharide glycosides (APG325CS that can buy from Henkel company) and lauryl polysaccharide glycosides (can from the APG600CS and the 625CS of Henkel company purchase) in these surfactants.

Other ionic surfactant pack that is suitable for is drawn together the condensation product (being the alkylene oxide ester of fatty acid) of alkylene oxide and fatty acid.The general formula of these materials is RCO (X) nOH, and wherein R is the C10-C30 alkyl group, and X is-OCH ₂CH ₂-(promptly by ethylene glycol or oxide derivatives) or-OCH ₂-CH-CH ₃-(promptly by propylene glycol or oxide derivatives), n is the integer of about 6-about 200.Other non-ionic surface active agent is the condensation product (being the di fatty acid ester of alkylene oxide) of alkylene oxide and 2 moles of fatty acids.The general formula of this class material is RCO (X) nOOCR, and wherein R is the C10-C30 alkyl group, and X is-OCH ₂CH ₂-(promptly by ethylene glycol or oxide derivatives), or-OCH ₂CHCH ₃-(promptly by propylene glycol or oxide derivatives), n is the integer of about 6-about 100.Other non-ionic surface active agent is the condensation product (being the alkylene oxide ether of aliphatic alcohol) of alkylene oxide and aliphatic alcohol.The general formula of this class material is R (X) nOR ', and wherein R is the C10-C30 alkyl group, and X is-OCH ₂CH ₂-(promptly by ethylene glycol or oxide derivatives) or-OCH ₂CHCH ₃-(promptly by propylene glycol or oxide derivatives), n is that integer and the R ' of about 1-about 100 is H or C10-C30 alkyl group.Also have other non-ionic surface active agent be alkylene oxide not only with fatty acid but also with the product of aliphatic alcohol condensation [promptly wherein an end of polyoxyalkylene part with fatty acid esterification the other end and aliphatic alcohol etherificate (promptly being connected)] by ehter bond.The general formula of this class material is RCO (X) nOR ', and wherein R and R ' are the C10-C30 alkyl groups, and X is-O-CH ₂CH ₂-(promptly by ethylene glycol or oxide derivatives) or-OCH ₂CHCH ₃-(promptly by propylene glycol or oxide derivatives), n is about 100 integers of about 6-.These limiting examples by the deutero-non-ionic surface active agent of alkylene oxide comprise ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteraeth-6, ceteraeth-10, ceteraeth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, the PEG-6 stearate, the PEG-10 stearate, the PEG-100 stearate, the PEG-12 stearate, the PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 tallow fatty acid glyceride, the PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 coconut acid glyceride, PEG-80 coconut acid glyceride, PEG-200 tallow fatty acid glyceride, the PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate and their mixture.

Other non-ionic surface active agent that is suitable for also comprises the polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactant corresponding to following structural:

R in the formula ¹Be H, C1-C4 alkyl, 2-ethoxy, 2-hydroxypropyl, preferred C1-C4 alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl, most preferable; R ²Be C5-C31 alkyl or alkenyl, preferred C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C9-C17 alkyl or alkenyl, most preferably C11-C15 alkyl or alkenyl; Z has at least 3 hydroxyls directly to link polyhydroxy alkyl part with line style hydrocarbyl chain or their alkoxylate (preferred ethoxylation or propoxylation) derivant on the chain.Preferred Z is selected from the sugar moieties of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, xylose and their mixture.Corresponding to the particularly preferred surfactant of said structure is Cortex cocois radicis alkyl N-methylglycoside amide (that is R wherein, ²CO-is partly derived by coco-nut oil fatty acid and obtains).The method that preparation contains polyhydroxy fatty acid amide compositions has been disclosed in for example british patent specification 809060 (Thomas Hedley ﹠amp; Co.Ltd.1959 announced February 18), in the United States Patent (USP) 1985424 (December in 1934 mandate on the 25th) of the United States Patent (USP) 2703798 (mandates on March 8 nineteen fifty-five) of the United States Patent (USP) 2965576 of E.R.Wilson (nineteen sixty December authorized in 20th), A.M Schwarts, Piggott, it is for reference that these contents are all listed this paper in.

Preferred steareth-21, ceteareth-21, ceteareth-12, coconut oil sucrose ester, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate and composition thereof in the non-ionic surface active agent.

Other ionic surfactant pack that is suitable for is drawn together C1-C30 ether, alkylphosphonate, phosphoric acid polyoxy alkylidene aliphatic ether, fatty acid amide, lactic acid acyl ester of C1-C30 ester, the polyhydric alcohol of polyglycerin ester, the polyhydric alcohol of alkoxylated ether, the C1-C30 fatty acid of the C1-C30 fatty acid ester of sugar ester and sugared polyester, alkoxylate sugar ester and sugared polyester, C1-C30 aliphatic alcohol and alkoxy derivative thereof, C1-C30 aliphatic alcohol and composition thereof.The limiting examples of these non-siliceous emulsifying agents comprises: Polyethylene Glycol 20 Arlacel-20s (Polysorbate20), Polyethylene Glycol 3 soyasterols, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, the phosphoric acid cetyl, phosphoric acid cetyl potassium, phosphoric acid cetyl diethanolamine, Polysorbate 60, tristerin, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleates (Polysorbate 85), the mono laurate Isosorbide Dinitrate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearates, polyglycereol-4 stearate, lauric acid hexyl ester, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-100 stearate and composition thereof.

Here other emulsifying agent of Cai Yonging is a fatty acid ester blends, and it is based on the fatty acid ester of anhydro sorbitol or sorbitol and the mixture of sucrose fatty acid ester, and the fatty acid in every kind of situation is C8-C24 preferably, is more preferably C10-C20.Preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is the C16-C20 fatty acid ester of anhydro sorbitol or sorbitol and blend, especially sorbitan monostearate and the sucrose cocos nucifera oil ester of sucrose C10-C16 fatty acid ester.These can be available from ICI company, merchant Arlatone 2121 by name.

Hydrophilic surfactant used herein alternately or additionally comprises any in multiple cation, anion, amphion and the amphoteric surfactant, as known in the art those.For example with reference to detergent and the surfactant of McCutcheon, North America version (1986), Allured Publishing Corporation publishes; People's such as mandate on April 30th, 1991 Ciotti USP5011681; People's such as nineteen eighty-three December mandate on the 20th Dixon USP4421769; With the USP3755560 that authorized people such as Dicker on August 28th, 1973; These four pieces of documents are incorporated herein by reference in full.

Illustrative cationic surfactant used herein comprises that those are disclosed in the USP5151209 that JIUYUE in 1992 was authorized people such as McCall on the 29th; People's such as JIUYUE in 1992 mandate on the 29th Steuri USP5151210; People's such as mandate on June 9th, 1992 Wells USP5120532; People's such as mandate on June 7 nineteen eighty-three Bolich USP4387090; People's such as mandate on November 3rd, 1964 Hilfer USP3155591; People's such as December in 1975 mandate on the 30th Laughlin USP3929678; People's such as mandate on May 25th, 1976 Bailey USP3959461; The detergent of McCutcheon and emulsifying agent (North America version, 1979), M.C. publishing company; And people's such as Schwartz surfactant, its chemistry and technology, New York; Intescience publishing house, 1949; All these documents are incorporated herein by reference in full.Cationic surfactant used herein comprises the cation ammonium salt, as quaternary ammonium salt and amino amides.

Multiple anion surfactant also can use at this.For example, be incorporated herein by reference in full at this referring to people's such as December in 1975 mandate on the 30th Laughlin USP3929678.The limiting examples of anion surfactant comprises alkanoyl isethionate (as C12-C30), alkyl and alkyl ether sulphate and salt, alkyl and alkyl ether phosphate and salt, alkyl methyl taurine salt (as C12-C30) and fatty acid soaps (as alkali metal salt, as sodium or potassium salt).

Here also can use both sexes and zwitterionic surfactant.The example that can be used for the both sexes of the present composition and zwitterionic surfactant is extensively to be described as those of the secondary and tertiary amine of aliphatic series, wherein aliphatic group can be straight or branched, and one of them aliphatic substituent group contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferred C8-C18), and one contains anionic water and adds the dissolubility group, as carboxyl, sulfonate radical, sulfate radical, phosphate radical or phosphonate radical.Example has alkyl imido grpup acetate, imido grpup two alkyl salts and amido alkyl salt, imidazoline and ammonium derivative.Other both sexes and zwitterionic surfactant that is suitable for is selected from betanin, sulfobetaines, hydroxyl sulfo betaine, alkyl sarcosine salt (as C12-C30) and alkanoyl sarcosinate.

Preferred emulsion of the present invention comprises emulsifying agent or the surfactant that contains polysiloxanes.Here use wide variety of silicone emulsifiers.These silicone emulsifiers generally are organically-modified organopolysiloxanes, and those skilled in the art also are referred to as polysiloxane surfactant.The silicone emulsifiers that is suitable for comprises the dimethicone polyol.These materials are such polydimethylsiloxane, and they have been modified to comprise polyether lateral chain, as polyethylene oxide chain, poly(propylene oxide) chain, and the mixture of these chains, and contain the polyether chain of while derived from the part of oxirane and expoxy propane.Other example comprises alkyl-modified dimethicone polyol, promptly contains the chemical compound of C2-C30 side chain.Other dimethicone polyol that is suitable for also comprise have various cationes, the material of anion, both sexes and zwitterionic pendant groups part.

Here the dimethicone polyol emulsifying agent of Cai Yonging can be represented by the formula:

Wherein R is that C1-C30 straight chain, side chain or cyclic alkyl and R2 are selected from the group of being made up of following:

--(CH ₂) _n--O--(CH ₂CHR ³O) _m--H and

-(CH ₂) _n--O--(CH ₂CHR ³O) _m--(CH ₂CHR ⁴O) _o--H, wherein n is 3 to about 10 integer; R ³And R ⁴Be selected from the group of forming by H and C1-C16 straight or branched alkyl, make R ³And R ⁴Not the same simultaneously; Make molecule have about 200 to about 10,000,000 overall molecule amount with the selection of m, o, x and y, and m, o, x and y be selected from zero or bigger integer separately, make m and o be not simultaneously zero and z be selected from 1 or bigger integer alone.Recognize the position isomer that can obtain these polyols.The above-mentioned R that contains ³And R ⁴The R of group ²The chemistry representative formula of part is not restrictive, but illustrate for convenience.

The polysiloxane surfactant shown in the structure also can use during the preceding paragraph fell, wherein R ²For-(CH ₂) _n-O-R ⁵, R wherein ⁵Be cation, anion, amphoteric or zwitterionic part, though it is not categorized as the dimethicone polyol by strictness.

Here being used as the dimethicone polyol of emulsifying agent and the unrestricted example of other polysiloxane surfactant comprises: the polydimethylsiloxane copolyether with poly(ethylene oxide) side chain, polydimethylsiloxane copolyether with poly(propylene oxide) side chain, have poly(ethylene oxide) and poly(propylene oxide) and mix the polydimethylsiloxane copolyether of side chain, have polyoxygenated (ethylene) (propylene) and mix the polydimethylsiloxane copolyether of side chain, polydimethylsiloxane copolyether with organic betanin side chain, polydimethylsiloxane copolyether with carboxylate (salt) side chain, polydimethylsiloxane copolyether with quaternary ammonium salt side chain, and contain the C2-C30 straight chain, the further modifier of the above-mentioned copolymer of side chain or cyclic alkyl part side group.The example of the dimethicone polyol that Dow Corning Corporation used herein sells has Dow Corning ^190,193, Q2-5220,2501 waxes, 2-5324 fluid and 3225C (latter is to sell with the form of SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 mixture).The cetyl dimethicone polyol that is purchased for polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (with) mixture of lauric acid hexyl ester, commodity are ABIL ^WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt).The cetyl dimethicone polyol that is purchased also for lauric acid hexyl ester (with) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (with) mixture of cetyl dimethicone, with commodity ABIL ^WS-08 sells (also available from Goldschmidt).Other limiting examples of dimethicone polyol also comprises lauryl dimethicone polyol, dimethicone polyol acetas, dimethicone polyol adipate ester, dimethicone polyol amine, dimethicone polyol docosane acid esters dimethicone polyol butyl ether, dimethicone polyol hydroxy stearic acid ester, dimethicone polyol isostearate, dimethicone polyol laurate, dimethicone polyol methyl ether, dimethicone polyol phosphate ester, with dimethicone polyol stearate.See international cosmetic ingredient dictionary, the 5th edition, 1993, be incorporated herein for reference.

Here the dimethicone polyol emulsifying agent of Cai Yonging for example is described in USP4960764, authorizes Figueroa, people such as Jr. October 2 nineteen ninety; European patent EP is open on August 3rd, 330369,1989, belongs to SanoGueira; People's such as G.H.Dahms " the new prescription probability that the polysiloxanes polyol provides ", cosmetics and toilet articles.The 110th volume, 91-100 page or leaf, March nineteen ninety-five; People's such as M.E.Carlotti " the quantitative relationship research between the optimization of W/O-S emulsion and ester structure and the emulsion property ", dispersion science and technology magazine, 13 (3), 315-336 (1992); " the organic and comparability technical research of organopolysiloxane emulsifying agent in cosmetics oil bag water emulsion preparation " of P.Hameyer, HAPPI 28 (4), 88-128 page or leaf (1991); People's such as J.Smid-Korbar " effectiveness and the suitability of polysiloxane surfactant in emulsion ", ProvisionalCommunication, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12,135-139 (1990); With people's such as D.G.Krzysik " the new silicone emulsifiers that is used for the Water-In-Oil system ", medicine and cosmetics industry, the 146th (4) volume, 28-81 page or leaf (April nineteen ninety); More than be incorporated herein for reference.(2) structure reagent

The compositions here, the emulsion especially here can contain structure reagent.Structure reagent especially preferably is present in the O/w emulsion of the present invention.Bound by theory does not think that structure reagent helps provide the compositions certain rheological properties, and this rheological characteristic helps stable composition.For example, structure reagent helps form the gel with liquid crystal structure network structure.Structure reagent also can be used as emulsifying agent or surfactant.Preferred compositions of the present invention comprises about 1% to about 20%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about one or more structure reagent of 2% to about 9%.

Preferred construction reagent is that HLB is about 1 to about 3, and fusing point is at least about those of 45 ℃.Suitable structure reagent is selected from saturated C14-C30 aliphatic alcohol, saturated C16 to C30 aliphatic alcohol (containing about 1) to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated C16-C30 glycol, the single glycerin ether of saturated C16-C30, saturated C16-C30 hydroxy fatty acid, C14-C30 hydroxyl and non-hydroxyl satisfied fatty acid, the saturated ethoxylated fatty acid of C14-C30, contain about 1 amine and alcohol to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide glycol, the C14-C30 saturated monoglyceride of monoglyceride content at least 40%, have an appointment 1 to about 3 alkyl and about 2 to about 3 saturated polyglycerin ester of the unitary C14-C30 of saturated glycerol, the C14-C30 glycerol monoethers, C14-C30 anhydro sorbitol list/diester, the saturated ethoxylation dehydrated sorbitol list/diester of C14-C30 (having about 1) to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, the saturated methyl glucoside esters of C14-C30, the saturated sucrose list/diester of C14-C30, has about 1 the saturated ethoxylation methyl glucoside esters of C14-C30 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, the saturated polysaccharide glycosides of C14-C30 that on average has 1 to 2 glucose unit, and composition thereof, its fusing point is at least about 45 ℃.

Preferred construction reagent of the present invention is selected from: stearic acid, Palmic acid, stearyl alcohol, spermol, tadenan, stearic acid, Palmic acid, on average have about 1 to the polyglycol ether of the stearyl alcohol of about 5 ethylene oxide units, on average have about 1 to polyglycol ether of the spermol of about 5 ethylene oxide units and composition thereof.The preferred structure reagent of the present invention is selected from: stearyl alcohol, spermol, tadenan, on average have the polyglycol ether (Steareth-2) of the stearyl alcohol of about 2 ethylene oxide units, on average have a polyglycol ether and composition thereof of the spermol of about 2 ethylene oxide units.Preferred structure reagent is selected from stearic acid, Palmic acid, stearyl alcohol, spermol, tadenan, Steareth-2 and composition thereof.(3) thickening reagent (comprising thickening agent and gellant)

The present composition can also comprise thickening reagent, and preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2% thickening reagent.

The limiting examples of thickening reagent comprises and is selected from following material: (i) carboxylic acid polyalcohol

These polymer are to contain one or more salt and deutero-monomeric cross-linking compounds of ester from acrylic acid, substitutional crylic acid and these acrylic acid and substitutional crylic acid, and wherein cross-linking agent contains two or more carbon-to-carbon double bonds and derived from polyhydric alcohol.Preferred carboxylic acid polyalcohol is the medium-sized polymer of two classes, first kind polymer be the acrylic monomers or derivatives thereof (as have on acrylic acid two positions and three the position carbon be independently selected from C1～C4 alkyl ,-CN ,-substituent group of COOH and their mixture) cross-linked homopolymer.Second base polymer is to be selected from acrylic monomers or derivatives thereof (as above sentence is described), short chain alcohol (is that the acrylate monomer or derivatives thereof of C1～C4) is (as being independently selected from C1～C4 alkyl on two positions of the acrylate moiety of ester wherein and three position carbon,-CN, the substituent group of-COOH and their mixture) and first kind of monomer of their mixture, (be that the acrylate monomer or derivatives thereof of C8～C40) is (as being independently selected from C1～C4 alkyl on two positions of the acrylate moiety of ester and three position carbon atoms with long-chain alcohol,-CN, the substituent group of-COOH and their mixture) second kind of monomeric cross-linked copolymer.The mixture of this two base polymer also is applicable to the present invention.

In the first kind cross-linked homopolymer, monomer whose is acrylic acid preferably, methacrylic acid, ethylacrylic acid, and their mixture, and acrylic acid most preferably.In the second class cross-linked copolymer, the acrylic monomers or derivatives thereof is acrylic acid preferably, methacrylic acid, ethylacrylic acid, and their mixture, and acrylic acid most preferably, methacrylic acid, and their mixture.The acrylate monomer or derivatives thereof of short chain alcohol is acrylic acid C1～C4 alcohol ester preferably, methacrylic acid C1～C4 alcohol ester, ethylacrylic acid C1～4 alcohol esters, and their mixture, and acrylic acid C1～4 alcohol esters most preferably, methacrylic acid C1～4 alcohol esters and their mixture.Acrylate long-chain alcohol ester monomer can be selected acrylate, preferably acrylic acid C10～C30 alkyl alcohol ester.

Cross-linking agent in these base polymers is a kind of polyalkenyl polyethers of polyhydric alcohol, contains the alkenyl ether group more than in its each molecule, and the parent polyhydric alcohol in the cross-linking agent contains at least 3 carbon atoms and at least 3 hydroxyls.Preferred cross-linking agents is selected from the allyl ether of sucrose and the allyl ether of tetramethylolmethane, and their mixture.People's such as mandate on February 11st, 1992 Haffey U.S.P No.5,087,445; People's such as mandate on April 5th, 1985 Huang U.S.P No.4,509,949; Authorize the U.S.PNo.2 of Brown July 2 nineteen fifty-seven, the polymer that uses among the present invention is had more full and accurate description in 798,053.These contents are all quoted as a reference fully at this.Reference " CTFA international cosmetic ingredient dictionary " again, the 4th edition, 1991,12 and 80 pages; Wherein content is quoted as a reference fully at this.

The example of the commercially available homopolymer of the first kind that the present invention is used comprises carbopol preparation (carbomer), and it is with the crosslinked acrylate homopolymer of the allyl ether of sucrose or tetramethylolmethane.Commercial carbopol preparation is Carbopol  900 series (as Carbopol  954) that Goodrich Corporation produces.The example of the commercial copolymer of second class that the present invention is used comprises acrylic acid C10～C30 Arrcostab and one or more monomeric copolymers, these monomers can be acrylic acid, a kind of in methacrylic acid or their short chain (the being C1～C4 alcohol) ester, wherein cross-linking agent is the allyl ether of sucrose or tetramethylolmethane.Known these copolymers are the cross linked polymer of acrylate/acrylic acid C10～C30 Arrcostab, Carbopol  1342, Carbopol  1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 that these commercially available polymer have Goodrich Corporation to produce.In other words, the used carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful of the present invention can be selected from carbopol preparation, the cross linked polymer of acrylate/acrylic acid C10～C30 Arrcostab, and their mixture.(ii) cross-linked polyacrylate polymer

Cross-linked polyacrylate polymer as thickening agent or gel comprises cationic and non-ionic polyalcohol, usually cation type polymer preferably.U.S.P 5,100,660 people such as mandate on March 31st, 1992 Hawe; Authorized the U.S.P 4,849,484 of Heard on July 18th, 1989; People's such as mandate on May 30th, 1989 Farrar U.S.P4,835,206; People's such as December in 1986 mandate on the 9th Glover U.S.P 4,628,078; People's such as mandate on July 8th, 1986 Flesher U.S.Patent 4,599,379; On July 15th, 1987 people EP 228 such as disclosed Farrar, described the example of the crosslinked nonionic polyacrylate polymers that uses among some the present invention and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers in 868, the content of these patents is quoted as a reference fully at this.

Crosslinked polyacrylate polymers is a polymer substance, its feature universal architecture formula is: (A) l (B) m (C) n, and contain monomeric unit (A) l, (B) m and (C) n, wherein (A) is a kind of propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester monomer or its quaternary ammonium salt or acid-addition salts, (B) be a kind of propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl methacrylic ester monomer or its quaternary ammonium salt or acid-addition salts, (C) be a kind of can with (A) or (B) polymeric monomer, for example with the monomer of carbon-to-carbon double bond or other polymerizable functional groups, 1 is 0 or greater than 0 integer, and m is 0 or greater than 0 integer, n is 0 or greater than 0 integer, but wherein l or m, perhaps they the two, must be 1 or greater than 1.

(C) monomer can be selected the monomer of any one common use.These monomeric nonrestrictive examples comprise ethylene, propylene, butylene, isobutene., eicosylene, maleic anhydride, acrylamide, Methacrylamide, maleic acid, acrylic aldehyde, cyclohexene, ethyl vinyl ether, and methyl vinyl ether.In the cation type polymer of the present invention, (C) acrylamide preferably.(A) and (B) moieties in the monomer is a short-chain alkyl, for example C1～C8, preferably C1～C5, more preferably C1～C3, most preferably C1～C2.When polymer was quaternized, preferred polymer quaternized ammonium groups was a short-chain alkyl, i.e. C1～C8, preferably C1～C5, more preferably C1～3, most preferably C1～C2.Acid-addition salts refers to have the polymer of protonated amino group.Acid-addition salts can use halogen (as chloride), acetic acid, and phosphoric acid, nitric acid, citric acid or other acid prepare.

These (A) l (B) m (C) n polymer also contain cross-linking agent, and this cross-linking agent is most typical to be the material that contains two or more unsaturated functional groups.Cross-linking agent and polymer monomer unit process also enter polymer, therefore between two or more single polymers chains, perhaps connect between the segmental two or more parts of same polymer or the formation covalent bond.The nonrestrictive example of suitable crosslinking agent comprises methylene-bisacrylamide, poly (dially dialkyl) base ammonium halide, the polyalkenyl polyethers of polyhydric alcohol, allyl acrylate, the inferior ethylene of ethyleneoxy alkyl acrylate and polyfunctional group.The object lesson of used cross-linking agent comprises methylene-bisacrylamide among the present invention, two-(methyl) acrylic acid glycol esters, two-(methyl) acrylamides, the cyano methyl acrylate, vinyl oxygen ethyl propylene acid esters, vinyl oxygen ethyl-methyl acrylate, the pi-allyl tetramethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, diallyl ether, allyl sucrose, butadiene, isoprene, divinylbenzene, divinyl naphthalene, ethyl vinyl ether, methyl vinyl ether and allyl acrylate.Other cross-linking agent comprises formaldehyde and Biformyl.The preferred cross-linking agent that uses is a methylene diacrylamine among the present invention.

The character that requires according to final polymer, viscous effect for example, the consumption of cross-linking agent can change in very wide scope.Be not subjected to theoretic restriction, think in these cation type polymers, to add cross-linking agent, more effective sticky agent can be provided, and stringiness and viscous fracture under not having a passive attribute for example electrolyte existing.When using cross-linking agent, the ratio (based on the w/w benchmark) that its consumption accounts for total polymer weight is about lppm to about 1000ppm, preferably be about 5ppm to about 750ppm, more preferably be about 25ppm to about 500ppm, further preferably be about 100ppm to about 500ppm, most preferably be about 250ppm to about 500ppm.

The intrinsic viscosity of the cross linked polymer that records in a mole nacl solution under 25 ℃ is usually greater than 6, preferably between about 8 to about 14.The molecular weight of cross linked polymer (weight average) is very high herein, it has been generally acknowledged that to be typically between about 100 ten thousand to 3,000 ten thousand.Concrete molecular weight is not crucial, as long as polymer keeps its predetermined viscosity effectiveness, lower or higher weight average molecular weight is all allowed.When under the 20RPM condition, with Brookfield RVT (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc.Stoughton, MA is when USA) measuring, preferably, the viscosity of 1.0% polymer solution (based on active matter) under 25 ℃ is about 20 at least in the deionized water, 000 centipoise (cp) preferably is about 30,000 centipoises at least.

Monomer solution carries out polyreaction under initiator (normally oxidoreduction or thermal initiation) effect, stop until polyreaction, monomeric weight concentration is about 20% to about 60% in the monomer solution, is about 25% usually to about 40%, produces these cation type polymers by this process.Cross-linking agent also can join and carry out polymerization in the monomer solution, thereby enters into polymer.In the polyreaction, initial temperature is usually between 0 ℃ to 95 ℃.Can carry out polyreaction by forming a kind of monomer (also can be the cross-linking agent of any adding) reverse phase dispersion of water in on-aqueous liquid, on-aqueous liquid wherein is, as mineral oil, lanoline, Fancol ID, oleyl alcohol, and other volatility and non-volatile ester, ether and alcohol, and similar material.

If there are not other Special Statement, in this section was described, the percent of all polymer was mole percent.When containing (C) monomer in the polymer, (C) monomeric mole fraction accounts for (A), and (B) and (C) 0% to about 99% of integral molar quantity.(A) and mole fraction (B) can be respectively 0% to 100%.When (C) monomer was acrylamide, preferred consumption was about 20% to about 99%, more preferably is about 50% to about 90%.

If monomer (A) and (B) all in polymer, monomer (A) and (B) mol ratio in final polymer preferably about 99: 5 to about 15: 85, more preferably about 80: 20 to about 20: 80.In addition, in another kind of polymer, this ratio is about 5: 95 to about 50: 50, preferably about 5: 95 to about 25: 75.

In another kind of selectable polymer, ratio (A): (B) be about 50: 50 to about 85: 15.Preferred ratio (A): (B) be about 60: 40 to about 85: 15, most preferably be about 75: 25 to about 85: 15.

Monomer (B) when most preferably not having monomer (A) in the polymer: the ratio of monomer (C) is about 30: 70 to about 70: 30, preferably is about 40: 60 to about 60: 40, most preferably 45: 55 to about 55: 45.

Used cation type polymer particularly preferably is the polymer of universal architecture formula for (A) l (B) m (C) n among the present invention, 1 is 0 in the formula, (B) be the quaternised dimethylaminoethyl acrylate methyl base of methyl amine ethyl ester, (B): (C) be about 45: 55 to about 55: 45, cross-linking agent is a methylene-bisacrylamide.An example of this cation type polymer is Allied ColloidsLtd, (Norfolk, Virginia) trade mark of Chu Shouing is the product of Salcare  SC92, and it is a kind of mineral oil dispersion (it also can comprise various dispersion aids, as PPG-1trideceth-6).This polymer is according to the CTFA title " Polyquaternium32 (and) Mineral Oil " that proposes.

Other used cation type polymers are that those do not contain acrylamide or other (C) polymer of monomers among the present invention, and promptly n is 0.In these polymer, (A) and (B) monomer component is as mentioned above.These do not contain in the polymer of acrylamide, and particularly preferably being those 1 also is 0 polymer.In this embodiment, polymer is the homopolymer of methacrylic acid dialkylaminoalkyl group ester monomer or its quaternary ammonium salt or acid-addition salts on substantially.These methacrylic acid dialkylaminoalkyl group ester polymers preferably contain above-mentioned cross-linking agent.

Used among the present invention is the cationic polymer of homopolymer basically, and its universal architecture formula is (A) l (B) m (C) n, and wherein l is 0, (B) is the quaternised dimethylaminoethyl acrylate methyl base of methyl amine ethyl ester, and n is 0, and cross-linking agent is a methylene-bisacrylamide.An example of this homopolymer is Allied Colloids Ltd. (Norfolk, VA) product of selling with trade mark Salcare  SC92, it is a kind of polymer of about 50% that contains, the mixture of about 44% mineral oil and about 6% PPG-1 trideceth-6 dispersion aids.This polymer has obtained CTFA title " Polyquaternium 37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 " recently.(iii) polyacrylamide polymers

Also can use polyacrylamide polymers among the present invention, particularly contain non-ionic polyacrylamide polymer substituted branching or unbranched polymer.These polymer can be formed by various monomers, and these monomers comprise acrylamide or Methacrylamide unsubstituted or that replaced by one or two alkyl group (preferably C1 is to C5).Preferably, acrylamide or methyl acrylamide monomer, the nitrogen on it in amide be not substituted or by one or two C1 to C5 alkyl group (methyl preferably, ethyl or propyl group) replace, acrylamide for example, Methacrylamide, N methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacryl amide, N-N-isopropylacrylamide, N-isopropyl methyl acrylamide and N,N-DMAA.These polymer molecular weights are greater than about 1,000,000, preferably greater than about 1,500,000, the highest can be to about 30,000,000.The non-ionic polyalcohol that most preferably has CTFA title polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7 in these polyacrylamide polymers, be Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, the product of the commodity of NJ) producing Sepigel 305 by name.

Other used polyacrylamide polymers comprise acrylamide and the segmented copolymer of the acrylamide that replaced by the acrylic acid of acrylic acid and replacement among the present invention.The commercially available example of this segmented copolymer comprises Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson, the Hypan SR150H of NJ) producing, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H.(iv) polysaccharide

Use multiple polysaccharide among the present invention." polysaccharide " means the gel that contains repetition sugar (being carbohydrate) unit skeleton.The nonrestrictive example of polysaccharide gel comprises cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, acetate propionate carboxylic acid cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline Cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and their mixture.Also can use the alkyl substituted cellulose among the present invention.In these polymer, oh group hydroxyalkylation in the cellulosic polymer (preferably hydroxyethylation or hydroxypropylation) forms the hydroxyalkylation cellulose, and this hydroxyalkylation cellulose passes through the further modification of ehter bond by C10-C30 straight or branched alkyl group then.These polymer are typically the ether of hydroxy alkyl cellulose and C10-C30 straight or branched alcohol.Here used alkyl group can be selected stearyl, iso stearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, different cetyl, the coco group pure deutero-alkyl group of Oleum Cocois (promptly by), palmityl, oil base, inferior oil base, Caulis et Folium Lini base, Semen Ricini base, docosyl, and their mixture.Preferably those have the raw material of CTFA title cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose in the alkyl-hydroxyalkylcelluloswith ether, and it is the ether of a kind of spermol and hydroxyethyl-cellulose.AqualonCorporation sells these raw materials with trade name Natrosol  CS Plus.

Other used polysaccharide comprise and contain the glucose unit that (1-＞3) connect and per three sugar units just have the scleroglucan of the linear chain of (1-＞a 6) banded glucose, its commercially available example is Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, the Clearogel of NJ) producing ^TMCS11.(v) glue

The additional thickening agent gel of other that use among the present invention comprises mainly by the deutero-material of natural resources.The nonrestrictive example of these gel glue comprises arabic gum, agar, ammonium alginate creaming agent, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenin, dextrin, gelatin, gellan glue, guar gum, the chloride of guar gum Hydroxyproyl Trimethyl ammonium (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), hectorite grease, hyaluronic acid, aquation Silicon stone, hydroxypropyl takes off acetic acid chitin, hydroxypropyl guar gum, karaya, zostera marina, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenin potassium, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, Sensor Chip CM 5 sodium, carrageenin sodium, Tragacanth, xanthan gum, and similar material.(vi) crosslinked vinyl ethers/its polymers of maleic anhydride acid

Other gels that use among the present invention comprise the cross-linked copolymer of alkyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride.Vinyl ethers in these copolymers is by molecular formula R-O-CH=CH ₂Expression, R is the alkyl group of C1-C6 in the formula, preferred R is a methyl.Preferred cross-linking agents is the diene of C4-C20, more preferably the diene of C6-C16, the most preferably diene of C8-C12.Particularly preferred copolymer is crosslinked with decadinene, form by methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, when polymer at 25 ℃, when being diluted to 0.5% aqueous solution under the pH=7, use Brookfield RTVViscometer, the viscosity that records under spindle #7 (10 rpm) condition is 50,000-70,000 centipoise.This copolymer has CTFA title PVM/MA decadiene crosslinked polymer, and that commercially available is the Stabileze that International Specialty Products (Wayne NJ) is produced ^TM06.(vii) crosslinked poly-(N-vinyl pyrrolidone)

U.S.P No.5 people such as mandate on August 18th, 1992 Shih, 139, people's such as 770 and 1991 on Decembers mandate in 17, Shih U.S.P No.5,073, described crosslinked poly-(the N-vinyl pyrrolidone) of the gel as a supplement that uses among some the present invention and thickening agent in 614, the content of these two pieces of patents is quoted as a reference fully at this.These gels contain the cross-linking agent that accounts for gross weight about 0.25% to about 1% usually, these cross-linking agent optional self-contained about 2 are to the divinyl ether and the diallyl ether of the end group glycol of about 12 carbon atoms, contain about 2 divinyl ether and diallyl ethers to about 600 unitary Polyethylene Glycol, contain about 6 diene to about 20 carbon atoms, divinylbenzene, the vinyl of tetramethylolmethane and allyl ether, and similar material.Generally, the aqueous solution of these gels 5% is about 25,000 centipoises to about 40,000 centipoises 25 ℃ of viscosity that record with BrookfieldRVT Viscometer under Spindle #6 (10rpm) condition.Commercially available example comprises ACP-1120, ACP-1179 and the ACP-1180 that International SpecialtyProducts (Wayne NJ) is produced.

Here the thickening agent of Shi Yonging can also comprise following discloses: people's such as mandate on June 7 nineteen eighty-three Klein USP4387107, " used for cosmetic polymer and thickening agent encyclopedia ", R.Y.Lochhead and W.R.Fron compile, cosmetics and toilet articles, the 108th volume, 99-135 page or leaf (in May, 1993) is incorporated herein by reference in full.

Preferred compositions of the present invention comprises and is selected from following thickening reagent: carboxylic acid polyalcohol, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers and composition thereof, more preferably crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers and composition thereof.Non-essential component

Topical compositions of the present invention can comprise multiple non-essential component, as long as these non-essential components and the solvent here are physically and chemically compatible, and can not damage stability, effectiveness and other use advantage relevant with the present composition.Non-essential component can be disperseed, dissolve or be entered in a similar manner in the present composition carrier.

Non-essential component comprises reagent and other activating agent on attractive in appearance.For example; compositions can; except solvent of the present invention; comprise: absorbent (comprises oil absorber; as clay and polymer absorbing agent); abrasive material; anticaking agent; defoamer; antimicrobial (for example can destroy microorganisms; prevent growth of microorganism or prevent the pathogenic behavior of microorganism; and for example controlling acne and/or preserving useful chemical compound on the topical compositions); binding agent; bio-additive; buffer agent; filler; chemical addition agent; the used for cosmetic Biocide; denaturant; the used for cosmetic astringent; the medicine astringent; the externally-used pain-relieving medicine; film former; wetting agent; opacifiers; spice; essence; pigment; coloring agent; essential oil; the sensitization of skin agent; softening agent; the skin stretching agent; the skin healing agent; the pH regulator agent; plasticizer; antiseptic; anticorrosion promoting agent; propellant; Reducing agent; skin conditioning agent; skin penetration enhancer; Derma-Guard; solvent; suspending agent; emulsifying agent; thickening agent; solubilizing agent; the polymer (for example eicosylene and the vinylpyrrolidone copolymers that help compositions film property and affinity; the example has the Ganex  V-220 available from GAF chemical company); wax; sunscreen; sunscreen; ultraviolet absorber or diffusant; the suntan of non-Exposure to Sunlight type; antioxidant and/or free radical scavenger; chelating agen; sequestering agent; anti-acne agents; antiinflammatory; antiandrogen; decorticating agent; desquamation agent/remover; organic hydroxy acid; vitamin and derivant thereof (comprise water dispersible or water soluble vitamins; as vitamin C and the anti-bad blood ester of phosphoric acid), promote chemical compound and natural extract that collagen produces.These other materials are known in the art.The non-exclusionism case description of this class material is in Harry ' s Cosmeticology, and the 7th edition, Harry﹠amp; Wilkinson (Hill publishing house, London, 1982); Medicine type-dispersion, Lieberman, Rieger﹠amp; Banker, the 1st volume (1988) and the 2nd volume (1989), Marcel Decker, Inc.; Cosmetic chemistry and preparation, the 2nd edition, deNavarre (Van Nostrand, 1962-1965); With cosmetic science and technical manual, the 1st edition, Knowlton ﹠amp; Pearce (Elsevier 1993), they also can be used for the present invention.

In preferred embodiments, compositions also comprises the active matter that is used for long-time conditioning skin.The compositions that life-time service contains these materials can embody the benefit of the outward appearance of improving skin.Material with this effect includes but not limited to vitamin b 3 compound.

The particular instance of non-essential component comprises following composition: the A. vitamin B ₃Chemical compound

In an embodiment preferred, the present composition comprises safety and the vitamin b 3 compound of effective dose.Vitamin b 3 compound can be strengthened skin appearance advantage of the present invention, especially regulating skin, comprises the aging sign of regulating skin, more specifically aspect adjusting wrinkle, microgroove and pore.The present composition preferably comprises about 0.01% to about 50%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% and more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5% vitamin B ₃Chemical compound.

" the vitamin B here ₃Chemical compound " be meant chemical compound with following formula:

Wherein R is-CONH ₂(being nicotiamide) ,-COOH (being nicotinic acid) or-CH ₂OH (being nicotinyl alcohol); Its derivant; Salt with any above-mentioned substance.

Said vitamin B ₃The illustrative derivant of chemical compound comprises nicotinate, comprises nicotinyl alcohol esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and the nicotinoyl amine n-oxide of nicotinic acid, the amino acid whose non-distensibility of blood vessel ester of cigarette base, carboxylic acid.

The suitable esters of nicotinic acid comprises C1-C22, preferred C1-C16, the more preferably nicotinate of C1-C6 alcohol.Alcohol can be straight or branched, ring-type or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (comprising aromatics), and replacement and unsubstituted.This ester preferably is non-distensibility of blood vessel.Here " non-distensibility of blood vessel " is meant after the present composition is applied on the skin, this ester can not produce visible rubescent reaction usually, and (most ordinary peoples can not stand visible general red reaction, although this chemical compound may cause non-macroscopic vasodilation, promptly this ester is non-rubefication).The non-distensibility of blood vessel ester of nicotinic acid comprises tocopheryl nicotinate and hexanicotinate; Tocopheryl nicotinate is preferred.

Vitamin B ₃Other derivant of chemical compound is the derivant of nicotiamide, and it comes from the replacement of one or more nicotiamide group hydrogen.The limiting examples of nicotinamide derivates used herein comprises cigarette base aminoacid, for example derived from activation nicotinic acid (as nicotinic acid azide or cigarette base chlorine) and amino acid whose reaction, and the cigarette base alcohol ester of organic carboxyl acid (as C1-C18).The instantiation of this analog derivative comprises nitocinoylglycine (C ₈H ₈N ₂O ₃) and cigarette base hydroxamic acid (C ₆H ₆N ₂O ₂), it has following chemical constitution: nitocinoylglycine: Cigarette base hydroxamic acid:

The cigarette base alcohol ester of illustrative comprises the nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acid salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic, Palmic acid etc.Vitamin B here ₃The limiting examples of chemical compound is 2-chloro-nicotiamide, 6-amino-nicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, nicamide, N-(methylol)-nicotiamide, quinolinic acid acid imide, N-nicotinanilide, N-benzyl nicotiamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, neopiran, nicotine aldehyde .gamma.-pyridinecarboxylic acid, methyl .gamma.-pyridinecarboxylic acid, Thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1-(3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-sulfydryl nicotinic acid, cholexamin and niaprazine.

Said vitamin B ₃Examples for compounds is to know in this area, and can be available from multiple merchant source, as sigma chemical company (St. Louis, MO), ICN Biomedicals Inc. (Irvin, CA) and A1drich chemical company (Milwaukee, WI).

Here can use one or more vitamin Bs ₃Chemical compound.Preferred vitamin B ₃Chemical compound is nicotiamide and tocopheryl nicotinate.More preferably nicotiamide.

In the method for the skin of said adjusting here, during use, salt, derivant and the salt derivative of preferred nicotiamide is that those have basically the material with the identical effectiveness of nicotiamide.

Also can use vitamin B ₃The salt of chemical compound.The vitamin B here ₃The limiting examples of the salt of chemical compound comprises organic or inorganic salt, as has the anionic inorganic class (as chloride ion, bromide ion, iodide ion, carbonate, preferred chloride ion) inorganic salt, and organic carboxylate (comprises list, two and three C1-C18 carboxylates, as acetate, Salicylate, glycollate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferred monocarboxylate is as acetate).Vitamin B ₃These and other salt of chemical compound can be made by those skilled in the art easily, for example referring to the reaction of its amide " L-ascorbic acid and D-arabo-ascorbic acid and the nicotinic acid and " of W.Wenner, organic chemistry magazine, the 14th volume, 22-26 (1949), the document is introduced for reference.Wenner has described Ascorbate synthetic of nicotiamide.

In preferred embodiments, vitamin B ₃Ring nitrogen on the chemical compound is chemistry (promptly not bonding and/or untight) freely basically, or to become after being delivered to skin be chemistry (following " chemistry is free " also refers to not compound) freely basically.Preferred, vitamin B ₃Chemical compound is not compound basically.Therefore, if compositions contains with salt and other vitamin B that is compounded to form ₃Chemical compound, then after delivery of composition was to the skin, this complex was preferably reversible basically, and more superior is reversible in essence.For example, this complex pH be about 5.0 to about 6.0 o'clock be reversible basically.This reversibility can be easy to be recorded by those of ordinary skills.

More preferably, vitamin B ₃Chemical compound was not compound basically in compositions before being delivered to skin.Minimize or stop the example method of the formation of undesirable complex to comprise and save and vitamin B ₃Irreversible basically or other the material, pH regulator, ionic strength of complex of compound formation regulate, adopt surfactant and allocate, and makes vitamin B ₃Chemical compound with and its material that forms complex different mutually in.These methods are that this area ordinary person knows.

Therefore, in preferred embodiments, vitamin B ₃Chemical compound contains the salt of finite quantity, more preferably essentially no vitamin B ₃The salt of chemical compound.Preferred vitamin B ₃Chemical compound contains and is less than this class salt of about 50%, or more preferably salt-free basically.At pH is about 4 vitamin Bs to about 7 the compositions ₃Chemical compound generally contains and is lower than about 50% salt.

The vitamin B that comprises ₃Chemical compound can be a pure material basically, or the extract that obtains from the suitable physical and the Chemical Decomposition of natural source (as plant).Vitamin B ₃Chemical compound is preferably pure basically, and is preferred pure in essence.B. anti-inflammatory agent

The anti-inflammatory agent that can add safe and effective consumption in compositions of the present invention preferably accounts for about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.5% to about 5% of compositions.Anti-inflammatory agent can strengthen the advantage of improving skin appearance of the present invention, as reagent help more all even acceptable skin color or color.The accurate consumption of anti-inflammatory agent depends on the concrete anti-inflammatory agent of use in the compositions, and is very big because this class reagent is renderd a service excursion.

The steroid antiinflammatory includes but not limited to: corticosteroid such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyl fluorine hydroxyl dehydrogenation cortex (steroid) alcohol, the Alpha-Methyl dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionate, the valeric acid Clobetasol, the acetone hydroxyl meticortelone that contracts, fluorine dihydroxy methyl pregnen diethylene diketone, Deseoxycortone, dexamethasone, dichloro deoxidation prednisone, diflorasone diacetate, nerisona, fluadrenolone, flucloronide's acetonide, fludrocortisone, the trimethylace tonitric flumetasone, the fluosinolone acetonide, lidex, aniprime (flucortine) butyl ester, fluocortolone, acetic acid fluorine prednisone, the acetone fluorine hydroxyl dragon that contracts, halcinonide, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, medrat, the triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, can hold in the palm pine more, flucetonide, hydrogen fluorine cortisone, difluorosone diacetate, the acetone fluorine hydroxyl dragon acetonide that contracts, medrysone, amcinafal, amcinafide, the ester of its Mi Song and its surplus doubly, the chlorine prednisone, acetic acid chlorine prednisone, clocortolone, clescinolone, the pine of dichloro deoxidation, difluprednate, the flucloronide, 9-removes the fluorine fluocinonide, flumetasone, fluperolone acetate, fluprednisolone, the valeric acid hydrocortisone, the hydrocortisone cipionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone, paramethasone, andrographolide, prednisone, Beclomethasone, triamcinolone and its mixture.The preferred steroid antiinflammatory that uses is the hydroxyl cortisone.

Can be used for the second class antiinflammatory of the present invention and comprise non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents.The chemical compound that this class antiinflammatory comprises is that those skilled in the art are known.Open in detail for the chemical constitution of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, synthetic, side effect etc., can be with reference to authoritative works, comprise: antiinflammatory and antirheumatic .K.D.Rainsford, Vol.I-III, CRC publishing house, Boca Raton, (1985) and antiinflammatory, chemistry and materia medica 1, people such as R.A.Scherrer, publishing house of institute, New York (1974)

The concrete non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents that is used for the present composition includes but not limited to:

1) oxicams such as piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam and CP-14,304;

2) salicylic acid esters such as aspirin, salicyl salicylate (salsalate), benorylate, Choline magnesium trisalicylate, safaprin, solprin, diflunisal and fendosal;

3) acetogenin such as diclofenac, fragrant fluoric acid, indometacin, sulindac, tolmetin, Isoxepac, ethyl dihydro and furan acetic acid, tiopinac cycloheptatriene acetic acid, zidometacin, acemetacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clidanac, Oxepinac and felbinac;

4) fenamic acids (fenamates) is as mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, flufenamic acid, niflumic acid and tolfenamic acid;

5) propanoic derivatives such as ibuprofen, naprosyn, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketone propanoic acid, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, Evil third Qin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen and tiaprofenic acid.

6) pyrazoles such as bute, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, I third and front three protects Qin Song.

Can also use the mixture of these non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents and the ester of cosmetics and/or the acceptable salt of medicine and these reagent thereof.For example etofenamate (derivant of flufenamic acid) is specially adapted to local coating.In these non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, naprosyn, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbinac are preferred; Ibuprofen, naprosyn, etofenamate, aspirin and flufenamic acid are most preferred.

At last, can use what is called " natural " anti-inflammatory agent in the method for the present invention.These reagent can adopt suitable physical and/or fractionation to obtain with form of extract from natural source (as plant, fungus, microorganism by-product).For example, candelilla wax, α-bisabolol, Lu Yun, Manjistha (belong to from Rubia, particularly extract in the Rubia Cordifolia plant), Guggal (belong to from Commiphora, particularly extract in the Commiphora Mulkul plant), can draw extract, Chamomile and whip extract.

Here other antiinflammatory of Cai Yonging comprises the chemical compound of Radix Glycyrrhizae (plant genus/kind of Glycyrrhizaglabra) section, comprises glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and derivant thereof (as salt and ester).The salt that above-claimed cpd is fit to comprises slaine and ammonium salt.The ester that is fit to comprises the saturated or beta-unsaturated esters of this sour C2-C24, preferred C10-C24 ester, more preferably C16-C24 ester.The concrete example of above-mentioned substance comprises oil-soluble Radix Glycyrrhizae extract, glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid itself, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizunate, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium salt, 1-β-glycerol booth acid, glycyrrhetinic acid stearyl ester, the stearic oxygen base of the 3--acid of glycerol booth and 3-succinum oxygen base-β-glycerol booth acid disodium salt.Preferred glycyrrhetinic acid stearyl ester.C. sunscreen and sunscreen

Skin is exposed to the variation that can cause too much scale and cuticular tissue under the ultraviolet.Therefore, compositions of the present invention preferably contains sunscreen or sunscreen.Suitable sunscreens or sunscreen can be organic or inorganics.

The wide variety of conventional sunscreen is fit to use here.People such as Segarin are in cosmetic science technology (1972), the VIII chapter, and the 189th page discloses many suitable reagent later on, has been introduced as reference here.Concrete suitable sunscreen for example comprises para-amino benzoic acid, its salt and derivant (ethyl, isobutyl group, glyceryl ester, ESCAROL 507), ammonia Fructus Foeniculi acid esters (being o-aminobenzoa, methyl,  base, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, tyerpinyl and cyclohexenyl group ester); Salicylate (amyl group, phenyl, benzyl,  base, glyceryl and dipropylene glycol ester); Cinnamic acid derivative ( base and benzyl ester, (phenyl cinnamonitrile; Butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate); Dihydroxycinnamic acid derivant (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methyl acetyl umbelliferone); Trihydroxy cinnamic acid derivative (esculetin, methyl esculetin, daphnetin and glucoside, Esculin and daphnin); Hydro carbons (diphenyl diethylene, stilbene); Dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; Naphthol sulfonate (beta naphthal-3,6-disulfonic acid and beta naphthal-6, the sodium salt of 8-disulfonic acid); Dihydroxy naphthlene formic acid and its salt; Neighbour and parazon base disulfonate; Coumarin derivative (7-hydroxyl, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); Diazole (2-acetyl group-3-bromo-indazole, Ben base benzoxazole, Jia Ji naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazole); Quinine salt (disulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate and tannate); Quinoline (oxinate, 2-phenylchinoline); The benzophenone that hydroxyl or methoxyl group replace; Uric acid and vilouric acid; Tannin and its derivant (for example Hexaethyl ether); (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl group piperonyl) ether; Hydroquinone; Benzophenone (the sharp benzophenone of oxybenzene, portion, two oxybenzone, benzo resorcinol, 2,2 (, 4,4 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2 (dihydroxy-4,4 (dimethoxy benzophenone, its benzophenone difficult to understand; 4-isopropyl-dibenzoyl methane; Butyl methoxy benzoylmethane; Etocrylene; 3-(4 (methyl benzal terpanes-2-ketone); Octocrilene and 4-isopropyl-dibenzoyl methane.

Wherein, p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester (commodity have PARSOL MCX); 4; 4 (tert-butyl group methoxy dibenzoyl methylmethanes (commodity have PARSOL 1789); 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group benzophenone; octyldimethyl-para-amino benzoic acid; two galloyl trioleates; 2; 2-dihydroxy-4-methoxyl group benzophenone; 4-(two (hydroxypropyl)) amino benzoic Acid ethyl ester; 2-cyano group-3; 3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethyl hexyl ester; salicylic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester; para-amino benzoic acid glyceride; salicylic acid 3; 3, the 5-trimethylcyclohexyl; ammonia anisic acid methyl ester; ESCAROL 507 or Aminobenzoate; ESCAROL 507 2-ethyl hexyl ester; 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid; 2-(to the dimethylamino phenyl)-5-sulfo group benzoxazole acid (benzoxazoic acid); the mixture of octocrilene and these chemical compounds is preferred.

The preferred organic sunscreen agent that can be used in the compositions of the present invention is 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, PAROSOL 1789,2-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group benzophenone, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-para-amino benzoic acid, octocrilene and composition thereof.

Be particularly suitable for equally in the present composition is the US 4 that authorizes Sabatelli on (for example) June nineteen ninety 26,937, authorized the middle those disclosed sunscreen of US 4,999,186 (all introducing) of Sabatelli and Spirnak on March 12nd, 370 and 1991 here as reference.Wherein disclosed sunscreen has two different chromophore parts that show different ultraviolet radiation absorption spectras in a molecule.One of them chromophore part mainly absorbs in the UVB radiation scope, and another chromophore part mainly absorbs in the UVA radiation scope.

In this class sunscreen preferably 2; the 4-N of 4-dihydroxy benzophenone; N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate; the N of 4-hydroxy benzophenone acyl group methane; N-two-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-Aminobenzoate; the 4-N of 4-hydroxy benzophenone acyl group methane; N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate; the 4-N of 2-hydroxyl-4-(2-hydroxyl-oxethyl) benzophenone; N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate; the 4-N of 4-(2-ethoxy) dibenzoyl methane; N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate; the N of 2-hydroxyl-4-(2-hydroxyl-oxethyl) benzophenone; N-two-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-Aminobenzoate; and the N of 4-(2-hydroxyl-oxethyl) dibenzoyl methane, N-two-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-Aminobenzoate and composition thereof.

Especially preferred sunscreen and screening are shone agent and are comprised PAROSOL 1789,2-ethylhexyl-p-Methoxycinnamate, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and octocrilene.

The sunscreen or the sunscreen of safe in utilization and effective dose are typically about 1% to about 20%, more preferably about 2% to about 10%.Its accurate consumption depends on selected sunscreen and desired sun protection factor (SPF).

The compositions that also can use in the present invention adds reagent and improves the affinity of compositions to skin, particularly strengthens the character that their opposings are rinsed out by water.Preferred reagent with this advantage is ethylene and acrylic acid copolymer.Authorized the U.S.P.4 of Brock on May 5th, 1987, disclose the compositions that contains this copolymer in 663,157, this paper is incorporated herein by reference.D. antioxidant/radical scavenger

Preferred compositions of the present invention comprises antioxidant/radical scavenger.Antioxidant/radical scavenger especially has ultraviolet infringement and the effect of other environmental factors to the damage of skin of preventing, ultraviolet can cause scale to increase or cuticular tissue's variation.

In compositions of the present invention, add the antioxidant/radical scavenger of safe and effective consumption, preferably account for about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 1% to about 5% of compositions.

Spendable antioxidant/radical scavenger is, as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and salt thereof, the acid ascorbyl ester of fatty acid, ascorbic acid derivates (as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, other ester of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acid and salt thereof, 6-hydroxyl-2,5,7, (product of commercial goods are called Trolox to 8-tetramethyl benzo dihydropyran-2-carboxylic acid ^Gallate and Arrcostab thereof, propyl gallate particularly, uric acid and salt thereof and Arrcostab, sorbic acid and salt thereof, amine is (as N, N-diethyl hydroxylamine, aminoguanidine), sulfhydryl compound (as glutathion) and Dihydroxyfumaric acid and salt thereof, Lycine pidolate, arginine pidolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionine, proline, hemocuprein, silymarin, tea extract, Pericarpium Vitis viniferae/seed extract, melanocyte and Herba Rosmarini Officinalis extract.Preferred anti-oxidants/radical scavenger is selected from other ester of tocopherol sorbate and tocopherol, more preferably tocopherol sorbate.For example, authorized Donald L.Bissett, the U.S.P.No.4 of Rodney D.Bush and Ranjit Chatterjee, 847 on July 11st, 1989, described in 071 and used in topical compositions and be applicable to sorbic acid tocopherol of the present invention, this paper is incorporated herein by reference.E. chelating agen

" chelating reagent " used herein means can be by forming coordination compound removes metal ion from system active agent, and metal ion just can not participate in or catalyzed chemical reaction easily like this.The adding of chelating reagent especially has ultraviolet infringement and the effect of other environmental factors to skin injury of preventing, ultraviolet can cause too much scale or skin histology to change.

In compositions of the present invention, add the chelating reagent of safe and effective consumption, preferably account for about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 1% to about 5% of compositions.Be disclosed in the USP 5487884 of Bissett etc. at this available typical chelating agen, authorize day 1/30/96; The international application of Bush etc. discloses 91/16035, open day 10/31/95; Disclose 91/16034 with the international application of Bush etc., open day 10/31/95; These articles are incorporated herein by reference.The chelating agen that uses in the compositions of the present invention is furil-dioxime and derivant thereof preferably.F. organic hydroxy acid

Compositions of the present invention can include hydroxy acid.Appropriate organic comprises the C1-C18 hydroxy acid, and preferred C8 or C8 are following.Hydroxy acid can be that replace or unsubstituted, straight or branched or annular (preferred straight chain) and saturated or unsaturated (single or polyunsaturated) (preferred saturated).The unrestricted example of suitable hydroxy acid comprises salicylic acid, glycolic, lactic acid, 5-MEXORYL SAM, Hydroxycaprylic acid and lanolin fatty acid.The concentration of preferred organic hydroxy acid is about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.2% to about 5%, equally preferably about 0.5% to about 2%, preferably salicylic acid.Organic hydroxy acid can strengthen the advantage of improving skin appearance of the present invention.For example, organic hydroxy acid helps to improve the skin quality.G. agent/remover is considered in decortication to be worth doing

In compositions of the present invention, can add the decortication bits agent of safe and effective consumption, more preferably account for about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.2% to about 5%, equally preferably about 0.5% to about 4% of compositions.The agent of decortication bits can strengthen the advantage of improving skin appearance of the present invention.For example, the agent of decortication bits helps to improve skin quality (as smoothness).Known in the present technique field have the agent of a variety of decortication bits to be suitable at this, comprises above-mentioned organic hydroxy acid, but be not limited in this.June 7 nineteen ninety-five is to ask serial number 08/480 in the common pending trial of the name application of Donald L. Bissett, 632 (corresponding to PCT application US 95/08136, the applying date 6/29/95) described a kind of in this decortication that is suitable for bits agent system, compounds containing thiol groups and zwitterionic surfactant in the system, this paper is incorporated herein by reference.On March 9th, 1994 is with the patent application serial numbers 08/209 of the name application of Bissett, the continuation application of 40l is the patent application 08/554944 (the November 13 nineteen ninety-five applying date of common pending trial, corresponding to PCT application 94/12745, the applying date 11/4/94, open day 5/18/95) described another kind in this decortication that is suitable for bits agent system, system includes salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactant.For example the zwitterionic surfactant of describing in these applications also can be used as the decortication bits agent here, especially preferred cetyl betaine.H. skin whitener

Can contain skin whitener in the compositions of the present invention.When using, compositions preferably contains about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.2% to about skin whitener of 5%, equally preferably about 0.5% to about 2%.The suitable skin brightening agent comprises that those at material known in the art, comprise kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.This skin whitener that is suitable for also comprise those in June 7 nineteen ninety-five the common co-pending application serial number 08/479 with the name application of Hillebrand, 935 (corresponding to PCT application US 95/07432, the applying date 6/12/95) and February 24 nineteen ninety-five with KallaL Kvalnes, Mitchell A DeLong, Barton J Bradbury, the common co-pending application serial number 08/390 of the name application of Curtis B.Motley and John D Carter, 152 (corresponding to PCT application US 95/02809, the applying date 3/1/95, open day 9/8/95) the middle material of describing, these two pieces of articles are incorporated herein by reference.I. skin conditioning agent

Preferred compositions of the present invention comprises non-essential skin condition component.This skin condition component is preferably selected from softening agent, wetting agent, humidizer and composition thereof.Skin condition component preferred content is at least about 0.1%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 99%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 50%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 30%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 25% (according to appointment 5% to about 10% or 15%).

Can adopt multiple softening agent.These softening agents be selected from following one or more: triglyceride, include but not limited to plant and animal fat and oil, as Oleum Ricini, cocos nucifera oil fat, safflower oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, Semen Maydis oil, olive oil, cod-liver oil, almond oil, American Avocado Tree oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, Oleum sesami, Squalene, kikui oil and soybean oil; Acetoglyceride is as acetylated monoglycerides; The ethoxylated glycerol ester is as the ethoxylated glycerol monostearate; The C10-C20 fatty acid alkyl esters, it includes but not limited to methyl, isopropyl and the butyl ester of fatty acid, as lauric acid hexyl ester, lauric acid dissident ester, Palmic acid dissident ester, isopropyl palmitate, methyl hexadecanoate, decyl oleate, Ceraphyl 140A, cetyl stearic, stearic acid ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, isostearic acid methyl ester, diisopropyl adipate, adipic acid two dissident's esters, adipic acid diethyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Dermol DIPS, Lauryl lactate, Tetradecyl lactate and lactic acid cetyl; C10-C20 fatty acid alkenyl esters is as myristic acid oil base ester, stearic acid oil base ester and oleic acid oil base ester; The C10-C20 fatty acid is as n-nonanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxy stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, castor oil acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid; The C10-C20 aliphatic alcohol is as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, spermol, hexadecanol, stearyl alcohol, isooctadecanol, hydroxyl stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, tadenan, the pure and mild 2-octyl group-dodecanol of mustard; Lanoline and lanolin derivative, as lanoline, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acid, lanoceric acid isopropyl alcohol, ethoxylation cholesterol, propoxylation lanolin alcohol, acetyl group lanolin alcohol, lanolin alcohol lanoline acid esters, lanolin alcohol ricinoleate ester, lanolin alcohol castor oil acid acetas, ethoxylated alcohol-ester acetas, lanoline hydrogenolysis thing, ethoxylation hydrogenated lanolin and liquid and semisolid lanoline absorption base; Polyol ester, as glycol monomethyl and di fatty acid ester, diethylene glycol list and di fatty acid ester, Polyethylene Glycol (200-6000) is single and di fatty acid ester, propylene glycol list and di fatty acid ester, polypropylene glycol 2000 monoleates, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearates, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl list and di fatty acid ester, polyglycereol fattiness family ester, ethoxylated glycerol monostearate, 1,2-butanediol monostearate, 1,2-butanediol distearate, fatty acid esters of sorbitan and polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters of sorbitan; Wax ester is as Cera Flava, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearic acid stearyl ester; The Cera Flava derivant, as polyoxyethylene sorbitol Cera Flava, it is a Cera Flava and the product of the ethoxylated sorbitol of different ethylene oxide contents, has formed the ether-ether mixture; Vegetable wax includes but not limited to Carnauba wax and candelilla wax; Phospholipid is as lecithin and derivant thereof; Sterol includes but not limited to cholesterol and cholesterol aliphatic ester; And amide, as fatty acid amide, ethoxylated fatty acid amide and solid-state fatty acid alkanol amides.

The conditioning compound of other type is the wetting agent of polyhydric alcohol type.Typical polyhydric alcohols comprises poly alkylene glycol, more preferably many alcohol of polyalkylene and derivant thereof, comprise propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erithritol, threitol, tetramethylolmethane, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, hexanediol, butanediol (for example 1, the 3-butanediol), hexanetriol is (as 1,2,6-hexanetriol), glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium, soluble collagen, dibutyl terephthalate, gelatin and composition thereof.

Also can comprise guanidine, glycolic and glycollate (as ammonium salt and tetravalence alkylammonium) as used herein; Lactic acid and lactate (as ammonium salt and tetravalence alkylammonium); Various forms of Lu Yun (as Lu Yun glue); Sugar and starch derivant (as the alkoxylate glucose); Hyaluronic acid and derivant thereof (as the salt derivative of hyaluronate sodium); The lactamide monoethanolamine; The acetamide monoethanolamine; Urea; Panthenol; Sugar; Starch; Polysiloxane fluid; Silicone gums; And composition thereof.Here also can adopt disclosed propoxylated glycerol among the USP 4976953, the document is introduced as reference.Other conditioning compound that is suitable for comprises the various C1-C30 monoesters and the polyester of sugar and related substances, as the material described in the hydrophobic component.

Above-named chemical compound can add alone or in combination.Preparation method of composition

The preparation method of the present composition generally is a known traditional method in the preparation topical compositions field.These methods relate generally in a step or multistep each composition be blended together state relatively uniformly, can maybe need not heat, cool off, add vacuum etc.Regulate the method for skin

The present composition is used to regulate condition of mammalian skin (human body skin especially, human body face skin more especially), comprise visible and/or can tactile skin inhomogeneities, the skin aging signal, but and the visible and/or sense of touch of the skin relevant with skin aging get inhomogeneities (comprising microgroove, wrinkle, big pore, rough surface and other quality inhomogeneities of being correlated with) with aging skin.These regulating actions comprise preventative and curative adjusting.

The adjusting skin relates generally to the compositions to dermal administration safe and effective amount of the present invention.Amount of application, frequency of administration and great changes have taken place with the degree of retinoid in the given compositions and/or other components contents and required adjusting between the operating period are for example with reference to aged degree of individual's skin and the further aged speed of skin.

In preferred embodiments, compositions is applied to skin chronically." long-term local application " is meant the compositions of using that continues in the long period of individual life section, preferably at least about 1 week, more preferably at least about 1 month, more preferably at least about 3 months, more preferably at least about 6 months, more preferably at least about 1 year.Though various the most long-term between back (after) as five, ten or 20 years can obtain benefit, preferably in the chronic administration in life of individuality.During these, generally be to use for about 1 time every day, but rate of application can be from about once to every day about 3 times or more times weekly.

For outward appearance and/or sensorial benefit are provided to skin, can in wide amount ranges, use the present composition.The each consumption of compositions is generally (by milligram compositions/square centimeter skin) about 0.1mg/cm ²To about 10mg/cm ²Especially the amount of application of consumption is about 2mg/cm ²

Preferably, implementing to regulate skin is by liquid, emulsifiable paste, cosmetics or other desired form compositions to be applied to skin, to produce the benefit (i.e. " retention type " compositions) of on the aesthetic feeling, preventative, curative or others.After the dermal administration compositions, preferably it is stayed on the skin at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes,,, as reach 12 hours most preferably at least about several hrs more preferably at least about 1 hour.

Embodiment

Following embodiment will further describe and illustrate specific embodiment within the scope of the invention.These embodiment only are for purposes of illustration, and having no intention has any restriction to the present invention, under the situation of not violating the spirit and scope of the invention, also may have a variety of variations.

Embodiment 1

Adopt conventional configuring technical to prepare stable topical compositions from following ingredients.

	Composition	Percetage by weight
	Composition	Percetage by weight	Phase A
	Deionized water	????14.699	Phase A
	Deionized water	????14.699		Glycerol	????10.000
Phase B				Glycerol	????10.000
Phase B				Carbopol?954	????0.400
	The EDTA disodium	????0.100		Carbopol?954	????0.400
	The EDTA disodium	????0.100	Phase C
	Isopropyl palmitate	????0.400	Phase C
	Isopropyl palmitate	????0.400		Spermol	????2.300
	SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330/dimethicone polyol	????1.900		Spermol	????2.300
	SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330/dimethicone polyol	????1.900		Stearyl alcohol	????1.500
	Dimethicone (200 centistoke)	????0.600		Stearyl alcohol	????1.500
	Dimethicone (200 centistoke)	????0.600		The PEG-100 stearate	????0.300
	Stearic acid	????0.300		The PEG-100 stearate	????0.300
	Stearic acid	????0.300		Cetin	????2.500
Phase D				Cetin	????2.500
Phase D				Deionized water	????3.000
	Sodium hydroxide	????0.200		Deionized water	????3.000
	Sodium hydroxide	????0.200	Phase E
	Deionized water	????8.000	Phase E
	Deionized water	????8.000		Nicotiamide	????2.000
Phase F				Nicotiamide	????2.000
Phase F				The hydroxyl Glycine sodium	????0.100
	Different propinyl Butylurea	????0.100		The hydroxyl Glycine sodium	????0.100
	Different propinyl Butylurea	????0.100		Deionized water	????0.300
	Butanediol	????0.300		Deionized water	????0.300
	Butanediol	????0.300	Phase G
	Isopropyl palmitate	????1.000	Phase G
	Isopropyl palmitate	????1.000		Retinol	????0.050
	BHT	????0.001		Retinol	????0.050
	BHT	????0.001		Polysorbate?20	????0.050

At first swept about 15 minutes with the combination of phase A component and with the nitrogen spray.With paddle mixer phase B component is dispensed among the phase A until evenly then, and is heated to about 75 ℃.In another container, in conjunction with phase C component and be heated to about 75 ℃.Then with phase A and the slowly stable nitrogen current covering of the mixture of B mutually.With any rotor/stator type homogenizer phase C composition was evenly gone in about 15 minutes in the mixture of phase A and B mutually then.After 15 minutes, blender closed to low speed sweep mixing.Merge phase D component then and add in the mixture of phase A, B and C.In case sneak into phase D and batch mixtures when being homogenizing, cool off compound by the gross.When batch of material was cooled to about 50 ℃, adding phase E composition also homogenized.When batch of material is cooled to about 40 ℃, add phase F component.At last, when batch of material is cooled to about 30 ℃, add phase G component.Continue to mix even until batch mixtures.

The compositions of gained is applicable to skin conveying retinol and processing and improves skin appearance.

Embodiment 2

	Composition	Percetage by weight
	Composition	Percetage by weight	Phase A
	Deionized water		Phase A
	Deionized water			The EDTA disodium	????0.100
	Glycerol	????5.000		The EDTA disodium	????0.100
	Glycerol	????5.000	Phase B
	The cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose	????0.150	Phase B
	The cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose	????0.150	Phase C
	Spermol	????0.500	Phase C
	Spermol	????0.500		Stearyl alcohol	????0.500
	Tadenan	????0.500		Stearyl alcohol	????0.500
	Tadenan	????0.500		The castor oil acid cetyl	????3.000
	steareth-2	????1.000		The castor oil acid cetyl	????3.000
	steareth-2	????1.000		VARISOFT TA100	????0.250
	Myristyl myristate	????1.500		VARISOFT TA100	????0.250
	Myristyl myristate	????1.500		Caprylic/capric/glyceride	????1.500
	Cotton seed acid sucrose ester	????1.000		Caprylic/capric/glyceride	????1.500
	Cotton seed acid sucrose ester	????1.000	Phase D
	Deionized water	????8.000	Phase D
	Deionized water	????8.000		Nicotiamide	????2.000
Phase E				Nicotiamide	????2.000
Phase E				N, N " di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide [N '-[(methylol)-2,5-dioxy-4-imidazolidinyl] urea]	????0.100
	Deionized water	????0.300			????0.100
	Deionized water	????0.300		Different propinyl Butylurea	????0.005
	Butanediol	????0.300		Different propinyl Butylurea	????0.005
	Butanediol	????0.300	Phase F
	Isopropyl palmitate	????1.000	Phase F
	Isopropyl palmitate	????1.000		Retinol	????0.050
	BHT	????0.001		Retinol	????0.050
	BHT	????0.001		Polysorbate?20	????0.050

At first swept about 15 minutes with the combination of phase A component and with the nitrogen spray.With paddle mixer phase B component is dispensed among the phase A until evenly then, and is heated to about 75 ℃.In another container, in conjunction with phase C component and be heated to about 75 ℃.Then with phase A and the slowly stable nitrogen current covering of the mixture of B mutually.With any rotor/stator type homogenizer phase C composition was evenly gone in about 15 minutes in the mixture of phase A and B mutually then.After 15 minutes, blender closed to low speed sweep mixing.When batch of material is homogenizing, cool off compound by the gross.When batch of material was cooled to about 50 ℃, adding phase D composition also homogenized.When batch of material is cooled to about 40 ℃, add phase E component.At last, when batch of material is cooled to about 30 ℃, add phase F component.Continue to mix even until batch mixtures.

The compositions of gained is applicable to skin conveying active matter and processing and improves skin appearance.

Claims

1. skin care compositions is characterized in that it comprises:

A) 0.005% to 2% retinoid; With

B) 0.001% to 5%, preferred 0.05% to 0.2% preservative component, it comprises:

I) formaldehyde donor; With

Ii) the halo propinyl compound is selected from ester, ether, acetal, carbamate and carbonic ester and the combination thereof of iodo propargyl.

2. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of formaldehyde donor and halo propinyl compound is 2000: 1 to 1: 1.

3. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, wherein the halo propinyl compound is 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate.

4. according to each compositions in the claim 1 to 3, wherein formaldehyde donor is selected from the dihydroxymethyl dimethyl hydantion, N; N "-di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide [N '-[(methylol)-2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl] urea], N-(methylol)-N-(1,3-dihydroxymethyl-2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl)-N '-(methylol) urea, 1-(3-chloro-pi-allyl)-3,5, the cis-isomer of 7-three azepines-1-nitrogen diamantane (obsolete) chlorination sodium hydroxy methyl glycinate, Er Jia oxazolin 7-ethyl Er Huan oxazolidine, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, the 3-glycol, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-diox and composition thereof.

5. according to each compositions in the claim 1 to 4, wherein retinoid is selected from retinol, axerophthal, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and composition thereof.

6. according to each compositions in the claim 1 to 5, wherein said compositions also comprises and is selected from following chemical compound: hydroxy acid, the agent of decortication bits, sunscreen, antioxidant and combination thereof.

7. according to each compositions in the claim 1 to 6, it also comprises the carrier that 1% to 99.5% skin is suitable for.

8. according to each compositions in the claim 1 to 7, it is with water preparation, emulsifiable paste, gel, stick, spray, ointment, paste, mousse or other cosmetics form.

9. the method for a conditioning skin is characterized in that it comprises to mammal skin to use safety and each compositions of the claim 1 to 8 of effective dose.

10. nurse one's health in the mammal skin quality method visible and/or can tactile discontinuity for one kind, it is characterized in that it comprises each compositions of claim 1 to 8 from safe and effective amount to mammal skin that use.