CN1192132C - Textured yarn having spun yarn like fluff and production method thereof - Google Patents

Textured yarn having spun yarn like fluff and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1192132C
CN1192132C CN 95195257 CN95195257A CN1192132C CN 1192132 C CN1192132 C CN 1192132C CN 95195257 CN95195257 CN 95195257 CN 95195257 A CN95195257 A CN 95195257A CN 1192132 C CN1192132 C CN 1192132C
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yarn
multifilament
long filament
filoplume
twist
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CN1158643A (en
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木村俊彦
犬山久夫
细田义则
小岛真寿士
辻良和
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Toray Industries Inc
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Toray Industries Inc
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Abstract

The present invention discloses textured yarn with spun yarn emulating feathers and long filaments. In the process of production, a set of multifilaments with initial twisting are gathered and finally twisted, wherein a part of single filaments forming the multifilaments are cut into short filaments, and at least one end of every short filament is fixed in the multifilaments through initial twisting or final twisting so as to bulge from the surfaces of the multifilaments to become feather. Every meter length of the textured yarn with long filaments has 100 to 400 feathers having the length of 1 to 5mm, 30 or more than 30 feathers having the length of 1.5 to 5mm, and the yarn has the strength of 4.7 to 6 g /d. The textured yarn with long filaments of the present invention has the feathers and bulkiness which are similar to that of spun yarn, and can be used for manufacturing soft high-grade woven fabrics or knitgoods. The textured yarn with long filaments also has yarn strength which is higher than that of common spun yarn or common nappy long filaments and has the tactility and hand handle which are similar to that of the spun yarn, and therefore, the present invention can be used as sewing threads having favorable high-speed sewing performance.

Description

The long filament textured yarn and the production method thereof that have spun yarn like fluff
Technical field
The present invention relates to comprise the textured yarn of synthetic fiber multifilament, it has filoplume and the bulkiness that is similar to staple fibre yarn, is used to make the woven fabric of soft feeling and commodity position feel, and also relates to its production method.
Background technology
Up to now, carried out various effort and made synthetic multifilament have such filoplume of staple fibre yarn and bulkiness, and proposed the long filament of many kind band filoplumes.The filament yarn of common band filoplume is with such method production, and in the method, multifilament is nuzzled up on an edge of a knife by false twisting or twisting simultaneously.But this method has a shortcoming, and promptly the passing edge of a knife of subsidiary time can wear and tear gradually, thus in the longitudinal direction As time goes on the intensity of the number of filoplume and yarn also can change, the result causes the yarn evenness of band filoplume filament yarn irregular.
A kind of long filament with filoplume is disclosed in unexamined Japanese Patent Application Publication specification No.3-64546, it has overcome the evenness fault of yarn, it is to produce like this, two multifilament self that go to thread-carrier and return from thread-carrier are intersected, hang over by the multifilament that will have first twist and twist with the fingers eventually and apply distortion on the thread-carrier and friction makes the multifilament fluffing.
The filament yarn quality of the band filoplume of Sheng Chaning improves in this way, As time goes on still has stable hairiness number and yarn intensity in the longitudinal direction.But the filoplume of this band filoplume filament yarn is very short, has only 1mm long or shorter, makes bulkiness very poor.Therefore the woven fabric made from this band filoplume long filament can not make woven fabric have soft feeling and high-grade feel.In addition, this band filoplume filament yarn is owing to intersect mutually standing first twist and twist with the fingers eventually processing back multifilament, thereby can not obtain gratifying yarn intensity.
On the other hand, when using as sewing thread, above-mentioned common band filoplume filament yarn can cause following problem.
Cotton sewing thread has good sewing performance, thereby is widely used in family's sewing and the industrial sewing.But the shortcoming of cotton sewing thread is an intensity difference, the dyefastness deficiency.In addition, it is that it can cause change in size that cotton sewing thread also has shortcoming, the feasible needle tracking appearance poor of finishing.On the other hand, occupy the polyester staple fibers sewing thread of half or the more sewing thread market share, have the sewing performance similar, and high intensity, dyefastness and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY are arranged to continuous sewing thread.But, because the polyester staple fibers sewing thread is to be made by staple fibre yarn, be unsafty qualitatively, for example, there is the very wide tieing of distribution to exist.Also have, because the appearance poor of needle tracking, the polyester staple fibers sewing thread is not used in the sewing of high-quality ready-made clothes.
On the other hand, by silk, the sewing thread that polyester or polyamide filaments yarn are made has been widely used as sewing thread, and it has overcome the problem that above-mentioned cotton or polyester staple fibers sewing thread are caused.Producing common long filament sewing thread is that many single thread that will have first twist lump together, and then carries out whole sth. made by twisting.Correspondingly, depend on the fineness of single thread and total yarn fineness, the long filament sewing thread can have good physical property, and this makes the long filament sewing thread that stabilized quality be arranged.
Chang Gui long filament sewing thread promptly can not cause any trouble with an extreme trace Sewing machines in sewing forward in common sewing like this.But such long filament sewing thread can cause serious problem in sewing backward, because the power that is added on the long filament sewing thread is the untwisting direction of twisting with the fingers eventually along it, can produces sewing thread and rupture because of the twist disappears.In other words, common long filament sewing thread can not be used for the machine stitching of automation, and the frequency of sewing backward in the sort of sewing Shen is very high.When the long filament sewing thread is used for the high speed sewing of industrial sewing machine, the fracture of line also takes place possibly, this is that heat by the machine stitching pin causes, and heat is because the big frictional resistance on long filament sewing thread surface and the long filament sewing thread penetration resistance to clothes is produced.
Consider these situations, proposed the sewing thread of some kind, they can overcome these shortcomings of common short fiber sewing thread or long filament sewing thread.For example, Japan Patent prospectus No.63-3977 discloses a kind of core pattern sewing thread, and it has the skin-core structure of long filament and staple fibre yarn composition.Unexamined Japanese Patent Application Publication specification No.2-33341 discloses a kind of sewing thread with improvement sewing performance, and it is formed in conjunction with yarn by the staple fibre yarn of the band twist and the twisting that long filament constitutes.But because these sewing threads are made by spinning process, they have tieing or the uneven part of size probably, and this can cause thread breakage in the sewing process.
On the other hand, unexamined Japanese Patent Application Publication specification No.2-104733 and 5-106134 disclose the method that is used to improve long filament sewing thread sewing performance, in the method long filament is carried out fluid treatment and produces looped pile, obtain the long filament textured yarn sewing thread of like staple fiber yam thus.Though sewing thread of being made up of such long filament textured yarn and short fiber sewing thread or uniform structure is arranged by comparison by the sewing thread that staple fibre yarn and long filament constitute, its high-speed sewing performance is very poor, and the needle tracking after making also is difficult to see.
In order to improve the shortcoming of common band filoplume long filament textured yarn, the present invention is at unexamined Japanese Patent Application Publication specification No.1-2722840,2-91236,2-216233,3-27144, among 3-64546 and the 4-091245, the spun replacement yarn textured yarn of yarn and yarn self friction fluffing has been proposed.
But long filament textured yarn although it is so can improve the uniformity of filoplume in the longitudinal direction, is not exclusively gratifying but conduct has the long filament textured yarn of filoplume similar to staple fibre yarn and bulkiness.
Therefore, target of the present invention provides a kind of long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff, and promptly it has filoplume similar to staple fibre yarn and bulkiness, is used to make the woven fabric of soft feeling and high-grade feel, and the production method of this yarn is provided.
Summary of the invention
According to the present invention, the long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff that can reach above-mentioned target has following structures.
The long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff of the present invention is a kind of long filament textured yarn, it is to produce like this, there is the multifilament of first twist to assemble together with many, award whole sth. made by twisting then, a part of monofilament of wherein forming multifilament is cut into staple fibre, by or first twist or twist with the fingers eventually and make every staple fibre have at least an end to be fixed in the multifilament, give prominence to from the surface of multifilament thus and become filoplume, it is 1 to 5 millimeter filoplume that every meter of long filament textured yarn has 100 to 400 length respectively, 30 or more a plurality of length be 1.5 to 5 millimeters filoplume, the intensity of yarn was 4.7 to 6 gram/dawn (g/d).
In another aspect of this invention, each multifilament is made up of 30 to 300 threads, and is made up of the long filament with identical monofilament fineness, and a part of long filament wherein is cut into short silk.In still another aspect of the invention, each multifilament is made up of 30 to 300 threads, and is made up of two kinds of long filaments with different monofilament finenesses at least, and the less long filament of monofilament fineness wherein is cut into short silk.
Because have the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff the filoplume of 1 to 5 millimeters long and the filoplume of a large amount of 1.5 to 5 millimeters long are arranged, it has fine hair similar to staple fibre yarn and bulkiness.Therefore when coming the maker fabric, can make woven fabric have soft feeling and high-grade feel with it.
The present invention has the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff and can be produced by following method.
At least two multifilament are flocked together, awarded first twist in these multifilament first twist step in front.The multifilament that flocks together is discharged on the thread-carrier, the guiding multifilament is centering on thread-carrier with returning forward on the both direction, pass through to self intersecting of two multifilament that thread-carrier goes and that return from thread-carrier then, thereby multifilament is applied distortion and friction makes the multifilament fluffing.In the step of following of sth. made by twisting eventually, twist with the fingers for the multifilament of fluffing eventually, thereby obtain having the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.
In this method, as mentioned above, at least two have the multifilament of first twist self to intersect when assembling, then award whole sth. made by twisting.The result makes the long filament textured yarn that obtains that relatively long filoplume and high yarn intensity be arranged.In still another aspect of the invention, be wrapped in this multifilament on the thread-carrier and be directed with forward and return both direction and fluff around thread-carrier and add man-hour, the speed of service of yarn be 3-100 rice/minute.
Long filament textured yarn of the present invention has profuse filoplume, every meter filoplume that many to 100 to 400 1 to 5 millimeters long are arranged and 30 or the filoplume of more a plurality of 1.5 to 5 millimeters long, and also the intensity height to 4.7 of yarn is to 6 gram/dawn.Correspondingly, it has extremely filoplume and feel (seeing the result of the staple fibre yarn of comparative example 3) similar in appearance to common staple fibre yarn as shown in Figure 2.When making a kind of ready-made clothes with it, ready-made clothes just has soft feeling and high-grade feel.
In addition, long filament textured yarn of the present invention and common staple fibre yarn comparison have higher yarn intensity and yarn more even.Therefore, when using sewing thread as sewing thread or machine, linear slit is being improved aspect intensity and the disruptiveness with it.
No matter particularly, when long filament textured yarn of the present invention is used sewing thread as machine, although be filament yarn, can not produce trouble in the automaton sewing, be to sew forward or backward promptly, all shown good high-speed sewing performance.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram that the present invention has an embodiment of long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.
Fig. 2 is the curve that shows the length and the correlation between the quantity of filoplume, represent separately according to a kind of long filament textured yarn (it obtains from following example 1) that has spun yarn like fluff of the present invention, a kind of common band filoplume filament yarn (it obtains from following comparative example 1), another kind of common band filoplume filament yarn (it obtains from following comparative example 2) and a kind of staple fibre yarn of comparative example 3;
Fig. 3 is a flow chart, illustrates that the present invention has an embodiment of the long filament textured yarn production method of spun yarn like fluff, carries out first twist processing with up twisting machine in scheme;
Fig. 4 is local flow chart, and an embodiment of yarn and yarn self friction device is described, this device is produced the long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff in the present invention;
Fig. 5 is a flow chart, illustrates that the present invention has another embodiment of the long filament textured yarn production method of imitating yarn type filoplume, carries out first twist processing with downtwister in scheme;
Fig. 6 is a flow chart, illustrates that the present invention has another embodiment of the long filament textured yarn production method of spun yarn like fluff, and first twist and whole sth. made by twisting processing are respectively carried out continuously with a twisting machine in scheme;
Fig. 7 is a histogram, shows that the present invention has the distribution of fibre length in embodiment of long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff; And
Fig. 8 is a histogram, shows that the present invention has the distribution of fibre length in another embodiment of long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.
The specific embodiment
The long filament textured yarn that the present invention has spun yarn like fluff is a kind of long filament textured yarn, it is to produce like this, there is the multifilament of first twist to flock together with many, then they are twisted with the fingers eventually, a part of monofilament of wherein forming multifilament is cut into short silk, at least one ends of these short silks by or first twist or twist with the fingers eventually be fixed in the multifilament, thereby the outstanding filoplume that becomes from the multifilament surface, have on every meter of such long filament textured yarn 100 to 400 length be 1 to 5 millimeter filoplume and 30 or more a plurality of length be 1.5 to 5 millimeters filoplume, and the intensity of yarn was 4.7 to 6 gram/dawn.
Show that in Fig. 1 the present invention has an embodiment of the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.In Fig. 1, Y KBe the long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff, Y is the multifilament that first twist is arranged, and A and B are each filoplumes.
The long filament textured yarn Y that in Fig. 1, has spun yarn like fluff KComprise the many multifilament Y that first twist is arranged, multifilament is collected at together, and awards sth. made by twisting processing eventually.Each comprises the multifilament of a lot of monofilament naturally multifilament Y, and wherein a part of monofilament is cut into short silk randomly at length direction.At least one end of each short silk by or first twist or twist with the fingers eventually be fixed in the multifilament, and the other end can be freely outstanding as filoplume A from the multifilament surface, also can still be fixed in the multifilament and gives prominence to as looped pile shape filoplume B from the multifilament surface.Preferably these two kinds of filoplume A and B do not have to curl, and the shape that is in line basically.
Yarn Y from the band filoplume KOutstanding filoplume A and B are at the yarn Y of band filoplume KLast every meter to each have 100 to 400 length be that 1 to 5 millimeter filoplume and 30 or more a plurality of length are 1.5 to 5 millimeters filoplume.Because the yarn Y of such band filoplume KComprise a large amount of filoplumes, every meter have respectively as many as 100 or more a plurality of length be 1 to 5 millimeter filoplume with 30 or more a plurality of length be 1.5 to 5 millimeters relative long filoplumes, it has extremely soft hand feeling of like staple fiber yam, but does not examine the disclosed common just never so excessively feel of band filoplume filament yarn among the Japanese Patent Application Publication specification No.3-64546.
The feature of long filament textured yarn of the present invention will be elaborated with reference to figure 2.
Among Fig. 2, the quantity of each the curve shows filoplume that shows and the correlation between the length, represent the long filament textured yarn (it obtains) that has spun yarn like fluff according to of the present invention separately from following example 1, a kind of common band filoplume filament yarn (it obtains from following comparative example 1), another kind of common band filoplume filament yarn (it obtains from an above-mentioned comparative example 2), (can buy on the market with a kind of staple fibre yarn of comparative example 3, spin (Toyobo) Co., Ltd produce and market by Japan, model is " C100#60 ").
The data of Fig. 2 are to be to measure under 60 meters/minute the condition to obtain in the yarn speed of service with " DT-104 type filoplume counter " (by east beautiful (Toray) Engineering Co., Ltd produce and market).In Fig. 2, its length is drawn on the figure as ordinate (being the filoplume number) greater than the filoplume sum of abscissa numeral.
As shown in Figure 2, about length at 1 millimeter or above filoplume number, the staple fibre yarn of comparative example 3 has 160 filoplumes for every meter, and the long filament textured yarn of example 1 has 140 filoplumes for every meter, and comparative example 1 and 2 common band filoplume filament yarn all have 30 or less filoplume for every meter.At 1.5 millimeters or above filoplume number, the long filament textured yarn of the staple fibre yarn of comparative example 3 and example 1 all has 50 filoplumes for every meter about length, and the common band filoplume filament yarn of comparative example 1 and 2 has 5 or less filoplume for every meter.
Reach a conclusion from this result, as shown in Figure 2,1 millimeter or above filoplume distribution, long filament textured yarn of the present invention and staple fibre yarn are quite similar for length in multifilament.Therefore, although be the feel that filament yarn also demonstrates like staple fiber yam.
In this test, term " filoplume number " refers to the sum of these filoplumes, is cut off freely (filoplume A) outstanding from the yarn surface and an end in the filament yarn surface and (the filoplume B) of sagging formation looped pile comprising an end of filoplume.Especially, the sum of filoplume can be to measure under 60 meters/minute the condition to obtain in the yarn speed of service by " DT-104 type filoplume counter " (by east beautiful (Toray) Engineering Co., Ltd produce and market).
When length in the long filament textured yarn at the number of 1 to 5 millimeter filoplume less than every meter 100 and length at the number of 1.5 to 5 millimeters filoplume during less than every meter 30, the long filament textured yarn no longer shows the feel of like staple fiber yam.On the other hand, when length in the long filament textured yarn at the number of 1 to 5 millimeter filoplume during greater than every meter 400, in (use long filament textured yarn) woven fabric or knitwear, can produce pilling effect probably, perhaps penetrating of cloth be become very poor with the sewing thread that the long filament textured yarn is made.
Have in the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff in the present invention, as described in the production method described as follows, filoplume is to produce on yarn in the step of first twist.Therefore the long filament textured yarn has high yarn strength, and fracture strength was 4.7 to 6 gram/dawn.Because high like this yarn strength, when using sewing thread with the long filament textured yarn as machine, it demonstrates fabulous high-speed sewing performance and automatic sewing performance.
Generally, the fracture strength of the high strength type filament yarn of no filoplume (having first twist and whole the sth. made by twisting) was 6 to 7 gram/dawn.But, when such filament yarn as machine when using sewing thread, its high-speed sewing performance and the automatic sewing performance extreme difference that becomes.This is because because such filament yarn do not have filoplume, the frictional resistance between line and the machine stitching pin becomes very high, thereby makes pin produce a large amount of heats and make and the line fusion cause broken end.In the present invention, term " intensity " refers to the value of measuring according to the method for stipulating among the JIS L-1073.
In the present invention, constitute each root in the many multifilament of the long filament textured yarn have spun yarn like fluff and comprise that long filament with thickness monofilament consistent with each other or at least two kinds have the mutual difference long filament of the monofilament of thickness separately.
In the multifilament that comprises last type of long filament, long filament is cut into short silk without exception by fluffing processing.On the other hand, in the multifilament that comprises back one type of long filament, the less long filament of monofilament fineness is cut into short silk selectively because the bigger long filament of monofilament fineness difficulty be cut into short silk.Thereby, at latter event, there is the long filament of less monofilament fineness preferentially to be cut into short silk, so that the filoplume of required quantity to be provided, and the long filament that big monofilament fineness is arranged provides the desirable strength of gained long filament textured yarn, thereby increases the number of filoplume and the intensity of long filament textured yarn is improved.
When multifilament comprises the long filament of two types of for example having different separately monofilament finenesses, preferably that the monofilament fineness of monofilament fineness 0.1 to 1.5 DENIER (denier) is less long filament and monofilament fineness are combined at the bigger long filament of the monofilament fineness of 3.5 to 10 DENIER, and the difference of two class long filament DENIER is in 2 DENIER or more some more.
From enough this viewpoints of filoplume are provided, the long filament number of forming multifilament preferably 30 or more, so that for woven fabric or knitwear provide soft hand feeling, produce uneven viewpoint from preventing suede balling-up and multifilament surface, long filament number preferably 300 or still less.
With regard to filamentary material,, there is not special restriction as long as long filament is that a kind of synthetic fiber are just passable as long filament textured yarn of the present invention.But preferably use a kind of thermoplastic synthetic fiber's long filament, low elongation and high-intensity polyester fiber and nylon fiber are for example arranged.
In the present invention, best multifilament has total fibre fineness of 50 to 500 DENIER.When long filament textured yarn of the present invention was used sewing thread as machine, preferably its multifilament had 100 to 300 DENIER total fiber fineness, and comprises 50 to 250 threads.
In general, one filament is circular cross section.But when being used for making ready-made clothes, one filament can be for other cross section, as triangle, the Y type, pentagon, hollow or flattened cross-section.Also can use the monofilament of specific type, as high glaze fiber or low luster fiber.
When multifilament comprises at least two kinds of long filaments that each have different monofilament finenesses,, the long filament that be cut into short silk can be provided and can not be cut into the difference of silk intensity between the long filament of short silk according to the difference of above-mentioned monofilament fineness.In addition, multifilament can include at least two kinds of long filaments of identical monofilament fineness, uses different materials or uses different processing methods by various long filaments, and the difference of silk intensity between them or percentage elongation can be provided.
In this case, preferably use two or three long filament that each has different monofilament finenesses.But also can use 4 kinds or more kinds of such long filament.From the angle of easy production, preferably simultaneously produce long filament that two or more each have different monofilament finenesses with a spinning head from a kind of polymer in this step of spinning by melt spinning.
But they also can be produced by this way, the long filament of less monofilament fineness is arranged and have the long filament of big monofilament fineness to spin respectively, then two kinds of long filaments that obtain are flocked together.
To illustrate that now production the present invention has the method for the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.
At first, will have many multifilament of first twist to flock together, and hang on the thread-carrier then, and the guiding multifilament is with forward and return two kinds of directions and walk around thread-carrier.Then, make the multifilament fluffing by self the intersecting of two multifilament of going to thread-carrier and return from thread-carrier.At last, the multifilament that obtains is handled through twisting with the fingers eventually again, thereby obtains to have the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.In this method, when being flocked together, multifilament adds big distortion and makes its phase mutual friction that this is very important to the multifilament fluffing that makes first twist.
With regard to the twisting machine that carries out first twist processing in being used in the first twist process, can use so-called uptwister, coating machine, conventional type (Italian type) twisting machine, downstriker twisting machine or two-for-one twister.Add man-hour when using such twisting machine to fluff, the multifilament that first twist arranged supply yarn with the recoil of vertical recoil or level, the yarn of many gained (promptly work as yarn flocks together or before yarn batches) processing of fluffing in the yarn Operational Zone then.
Fig. 3 shows the embodiment of the long filament textured yarn production method have spun yarn like fluff, and three multifilament that wherein will be in advance award first twist with uptwister flock together, and make its continuous fluffing then.In Fig. 3,1a, 1b and 1c are spools separately; 2a, 2b and 2c are spindles separately; The 3rd, driving belt; 4a, 4b and 4c are yarn feed rollers separately; The 5th, thread-carrier; The 6th, yarn feed roller; The 7th, bobbin; The 8th, winding roller; The 9th, the guide roller; The 10th, bearing pin; The 11st, guide roller, Y a, Y bAnd Y cEach independent naturally multifilament that first twist is arranged.
Multifilament Y a, Y bAnd Y cTwist in spool 1a separately, 1b and 1c go up and are contained in spindle 2a, and on 2b and the 2c, these spindles rotate along with the motion of belt.When along with the rotation of spindle by spool 1a, 1b and 1c supply multifilament Y separately along the axis direction of spool a, Y bAnd Y cThe time, give multifilament Y in the section between spool and yarn feed roller a, Y bAnd Y cThe perhaps first twist of S direction or Z direction.The yarn and the yarn self friction device that are made of guide roller 5 and bearing pin 10 in the zone between friction assembly and yarn feed roller 6 make three multifilament Y first twist and that keep together under tension force a, Y bAnd Y cFluffing.
Fig. 4 is the perspective view of yarn and yarn self friction device embodiment, and this mechanism is used for the production method that the present invention has the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff.In Fig. 4, Y 0Be the yarn that the guide leno draws, Y 0' be the yarn of returning from the guide roller, P is two yarn Y 0And Y 0' the point that crosses one another.
Multifilament Y a, Y bAnd Y cFluffed with following mechanism with yarn and yarn self friction device.When these multifilament hang on the thread-carrier 5 and by with as shown in Figure 4 forward and when returning the direction guiding, multifilament Y 0And Y 0' cross one another at bearing pin 10 places.At the two multifilament Y in processing stand P place 0And Y 0' be carried out big distortion and friction, make and form multifilament Y separately a, Y bAnd Y cA part of monofilament be cut into short silk, thereby on the surface of multifilament, produce filoplume.
Multifilament Y after fluffing like this a, Y bAnd Y cBe rolled onto on the bobbin 7 through winding roller 8 (see figure 3)s from yarn feed roller 6.Then bobbin 7 is contained on the whole twister, thereby obtains the long filament textured yarn that the present invention has spun yarn like fluff.
As shown in Figure 4, the friction by multifilament they self makes the multifilament fluffing.In the embodiment depicted in fig. 4, by mode shown in Figure 4 two multifilament are crossed one another, to two multifilament Y 0And Y 0' can apply the distortion of about 90 degree.Make multifilament to pass through the crosspoint with the direction of returning forward, the result generally speaking has the distortions of 180 degree to be added on the multifilament approximately.
In this fluffing processing, be added in the distortion on the multifilament and the effect stability of friction in order to make at crosspoint P, bearing pin 10 (see figure 4)s or a roller are preferably disposed on the inboard of crosspoint P.As guide roller 9 (as shown in Figure 4) or bearing pin being placed on the multifilament supply side of crosspoint P, the multifilament outlet side that guide roller 11 (as shown in Figure 4) or bearing pin is placed on crosspoint P is just better.Thereby any one direction that refers to along each arrow shown in Figure 4 when guide roller or bearing pin at the multifilament outlet side moves the pipeline of moving direction and yarn when intersecting, and will be changed by multifilament that goes to the guide roller and the angle θ that multifilament constituted that returns from the guide roller.According to the size at θ angle, the intensity of distortion and friction just may change, thereby regulate the number of filoplume on the multifilament.
In this friction process, the tension force on being added to multifilament, on two multifilament that go to the guide roller and return, preferably add 0.3 gram/dawn or bigger tension force from the guide roller.In order to apply required distortion, angle θ is 180 degree or bigger preferably, as 360 degree or above just better.When the θ angle is 180 degree or bigger, when the distortion that causes by intersection was added on the multifilament, half of multifilament excircle or more than half multifilament that moves with opposite direction contacted, thereby are rubbed.
Concerning the direction of the distortion that caused by intersection, perhaps S direction or Z direction all can be used.But, two multifilament are crossed one another with the direction identical with the first twist direction and twisted from increasing the viewpoint of multifilament filoplume number.For the length of filoplume, length just shortens when giving the bigger first twist amount of twist of multifilament, and therefore length is just elongated when to the less first twist amount of twist of multifilament.Like this, the length of filoplume can be regulated in 1 to 5 millimeter scope.
In friction process, preferably the speed of service of multifilament is 3 to 100 meters/minute, this is favourable to the intensity that prevents to reduce yarn, because because fricative a large amount of frictional heats or owing to the scratch of long filament causes the fragility of long filament to degenerate, make intensity decreases, can also prevent multifilament the fading and on filament surface, produce the powdery chip of white of friction position, and boost productivity.
Fig. 5 is a flow chart, illustrates that the present invention has another embodiment of production method of the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff, wherein carries out first twist processing with the downstriker twisting machine.12 is yarn feed rollers in Fig. 5, the 13rd, and the device of yarn and yarn self friction, the 14th, yarn feed roller, the 15th, spool and 16 is spindles.
As shown in Figure 5, multifilament Y a, Y bAnd Y cFirst twist is arranged, twisted in separately on the take-up package separately, supply yarn, give yarn feed roller 12 then and be collected at together with horizontal rewinding.Then in the zone between the yarn feed roller 12 and 14 of being arranged to series system under tension force with the processing of fluffing of yarn and 13 pairs of multifilament of yarn self friction device.The fluffing multifilament Y that rotation by spindle 16 will obtain a, Y bAnd Y cBatch on the spool 15 from yarn feed roller 14, thereby obtain the long filament textured yarn that has imitative staple fibre filoplume of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is a flow chart, illustrates that the present invention has another embodiment of production method of the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff, wherein first twist and twist with the fingers processing eventually each is carried out continuously by a twisting machine.In Fig. 6,17a, 17b and 17c are spindles separately, the 18th, and driving belt, 19 and 20 is thread-carriers separately, the 21st, yarn feed roller, the 22nd, yarn and yarn self friction device, the 23rd, yarn feed roller, the 24th, spool and 26 is spindles.
As shown in Figure 6, usually the driving of driving belt 10 makes spindle 17a, 17b and 17c rotation, thereby separately to each multifilament Y on the spool separately a, Y bAnd Y cCarry out first twist.The multifilament Y that first twist is arranged a, Y bAnd Y cGive yarn feed roller 21 by thread-carrier 19 and 20, and be collected at together simultaneously.The multifilament fluffing that between the yarn feed roller 21 and 23 that series connection is provided with, under tension force, makes and close with yarn and yarn self friction device 22.Along with the rotation of driving belt 25 driving spindles 26, the multifilament Y of band filoplume a, Y bAnd Y cBatched on the spool 24 from yarn feed roller 23, thereby obtained the long filament textured yarn that the present invention has spun yarn like fluff.
Have in the production method of long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff in the present invention, the multifilament number that (it was being carried out before twisting with the fingers step eventually) flocks together in the first twist step can be two or more.But, the most handy 2 to 7 multifilament, the fine balanced mutually viewpoint of each root multifilament energy is more preferably with there being the long filament textured yarn of 2 multifilament to make ready-made clothes from final filament yarn, is out of shape gauze as the machine sewing thread with the long filament that 3 or 7 multifilament are arranged.
The twist number that awarded each root multifilament first twist before multifilament is flocked together can be different mutually, and the direction of first twist also can be different mutually separately.
With regard to the corresponding twisting count just and the relation between the whole twisting count that give multifilament, the twist number and the direction of preferably regulating first twist and twisting with the fingers eventually make the long filament textured yarn of producing that has spun yarn like fluff that the good twisted moment of balance be arranged.Preferably first twist is opposite with whole direction of twisting with the fingers, and the twist number of twisting with the fingers is 60% to 90% of the first twist twist eventually.
When using sewing thread as sewing thread or machine with long filament textured yarn of the present invention, from good sewing performance good aggregation aspect to be arranged, preferably form the multifilament of long filament textured yarn, the twist number of its first twist, with term twist factor (K) expression, 4000 or more than.But from preventing that resulting sewing thread or machine from hardening and becoming originally of reducing to twist with sewing thread, the best twist number of multifilament first twist, with term twist factor (K) expression, 12000 or below.Twist factor (K) is defined as TD in this manual 1/2(T: every meter twist number; D: DENIER).Be more preferably the first twist twist number of multifilament, represent with the term twist factor, within 7000 to 11000 scope.The twist number of twisting with the fingers is preferably 60% to 90% of Z direction first twist twist number relatively eventually.According to sewing thread of the present invention or machine sewing thread, generally be by former yarn twisting being obtained, if desired, it is carried out twist setting, dye then and put in order.Generally carry out the dyeing of line with the form of reeled yarn or the form of cheese.
, with in the sewing thread number (being the size of line) of yarn is had no particular limits at the sewing thread of producing with long filament textured yarn of the present invention or machine.But be used for the ready-made clothes of sewing, yarn count 80# (3 strand of 40 DENIER twisting), 60# (3 strand of 50 DENIER twisting), or sewing thread or the machine of 50# (3 strand of 70 DENIER twisting) can be used as general purpose line with sewing thread.As the industrial materials of sewing, this line has bigger yarn count than the line of above-mentioned sewing ready-made clothes.Can suitably regulate the long filament number of forming sewing thread or machine usefulness sewing thread raw yarn according to the size of monofilament.
Example
In each example, determine the fibre length and the number of long filament textured yarn with following method (seeing result displayed in Fig. 7 and 8).
The center of clamping 300 millimeters long sewing threads is a bit removed the twist twist is removed.Then the single fiber that will not clamp is pulled out from line and is removed.The single fiber that keeps when the line center is a bit clamped is placed side by side according to length dividually, measures their length separately then.Calculate the number of the 25 millimeters single fibers in every interval, just can obtain with this number as the longitudinal axis, length is as the histogram of transverse axis.
Sewing performance with the every kind of line that obtains in the following parameter (see figure 1) evaluation example.In table 1, the line of example 3 evaluation is a kind of short fiber line (product " C100#60 " on sale on the market as a comparison, spin (Toyobo) Co., Ltd produce and market by Japan), the line of example 4 evaluation comprises a kind of filament yarn that does not have a filoplume (product " PET70D/3-48f " on sale on the market is by east beautiful (Toray) industrial group produce and market) as a comparison.
(a) with staple fibre yarn sewing performance more backward
With lock stitch sewing machine 4 layers of cotton wide cloth of speed sewing with backward directions 4000spm (pin/minute).Measurement is up to the stitch length (m) that thread breakage reached, and obtains the ratio (%) of this stitch length as benchmark (as 100%) with the length that staple fibre yarn reached of comparing.In current test, used Sewing machines is JUKI DLU-491-5 (being produced by Juki Kabushikikaisha) and used pin is ORGAN DB-1#11 (being produced by Austria sweet (Organ) pin Co., Ltd).
(b) compare high-speed sewing performance with the short fiber line
With lock stitch sewing machine 8 layers of cotton wide cloth of speed sewing with backward directions 4000spm (pin/minute).Measure the stitch length that reaches before the fracture, the numerical value that the short fiber yarn of comparing with use is reached is obtained the ratio (%) of this stitch length as benchmark (as 100%).In current test, used Sewing machines is JUKI DLU-491-5 (being produced by JukiKabushikikaisha) and used pin is ORGAN DB-1#11 (being produced by Austria sweet (Organ) pin Co., Ltd).
(c) intensity (%) of sewing back maintenance
Take the stitching of sewing thread on the cloth after the sewing apart, obtain the intensity of maintenance, compare with the sewing thread that begins.
(example 1)
A kind of high-intensity polyester multifilament (70 DENIER-48 rhizoid; Monofilament fineness: 1.46 DENIER) intensity at 7.5 gram/dawn is arranged, with 966 twisted/rice (T/m) it is carried out first twist processing in the S direction with uptwister shown in Figure 3.With 3 multifilament that obtain flock together (210 DENIER-144 rhizoid), hang under the following conditions on the guide roller 5,10 meters/minute of the yarn speeds of service, the tension force of the multifilament that the guide leno draws is 160 to 175 grams, the tension force of the multifilament of returning from the guide roller is 400 to 425 grams, make multifilament act as a guide leno when drawing with when the guide roller is returned, all on the direction identical, self intersect with first twist (S-direction).Multifilament is subjected to the distortion and the friction of about 360 degree in this method, thereby the multifilament that obtains fluffing.
With a uptwister the 3 fluffing multifilament that keep together that obtain are carried out end in the Z direction with 709 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m) and twist with the fingers processing, thereby obtain having the long filament textured yarn of filoplume.The long filament textured yarn that obtains has following characteristic.
The filoplume number of 1 to 5 millimeters long: 185/meter
1.5 the filoplume number to 5 millimeters long: 60/meter
Stretch breaking strength: 1120 gram (intensity: 4.9 gram/dawn)
In above-mentioned fluffing processing, all be staple fibre as shown in Figure 7 though have been found that all 48 rhizoids in the multifilament, the number of the silk of every kind of fibre length is the comparison unanimity.
When making plain fabric with the long filament textured yarn of resulting band filoplume, the plain fabric that obtains has soft feeling and high-grade feel.
On the other hand, further process the long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume that obtains to produce sewing thread with following method.Promptly the long filament textured yarn to the band filoplume carries out dry heat treatment under 180 ℃, carries out loose formula then and reels to obtain a cheese.Cheese to gained carries out the high pressure cheese dyeing.Yarn on bobbin is rolled on the bobbin during with sewing thread as machine, thus acquisition machine sewing thread.Resulting machine does not see with the naked eye that with sewing thread the dyeing inhomogeneities is arranged.In addition, when machine being carried out the sewing performance test with sewing thread, find that it has good high-speed sewing performance and automatic sewing performance, also makes the stitching of finished product that good surface appearance is arranged simultaneously with High-Speed Automatic Sewing machines.
Above-mentioned relatively parameter, the result with the sewing thread evaluation is presented in the table 1 to the gained machine.
(example 2)
Repeat identical substantially program, different only be to use long filament identical with the long filament of example 1 on the correlation between the intensity of filoplume number and long filament, each tension force that is added on the multifilament that draws from yarn feed roller guide leno is 210 to 238 grams and 134 to 141 grams (although the speed of service of twist number that first twist and end, sth. made by twisting was produced and multifilament is identical with example 1).In this way, obtain the long filament textured yarn of two kinds of band filoplumes.The long filament textured yarn that obtains has following characteristic.
(i) being added in the guide leno, to draw tension force on 5 multifilament that go be 210 to 238 grams, the long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume of acquisition:
The filoplume number of 1 to 5 millimeters long: 395/meter
1.5 the filoplume number to 5 millimeters long: 82/meter
Stretch breaking strength: 990 gram (intensity: 4.7 gram/dawn)
(ii) being added in the guide leno, to draw tension force on 5 multifilament that go be 134 to 141 grams, the long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume of acquisition:
The filoplume number of 1 to 5 millimeters long: 105/meter
1.5 the filoplume number to 5 millimeters long: 31/meter
Breaking strength: 1269 gram (intensity: 5.4 gram/dawn)
The long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume of gained carries out separately evaluation as machine with sewing thread by method identical in the example 1.Found that two kinds of machines all have good high-speed sewing performance and automatic sewing performance with sewing thread, make the stitching of finished product that good surface appearance is arranged simultaneously.
(example 3)
A kind of polyester multifilament (70 DENIER-42 rhizoid) of forming by two kinds of long filaments, every kind of long filament has separately different monofilament DENIER mutually, (monofilament that 6 threads are arranged is 6 DENIER, the monofilament of 36 threads is 1 DENIER), with uptwister shown in Figure 3 this multifilament is carried out first twist processing in the S direction with 966 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m).Three multifilament of gained are flocked together, be suspended on the guide roller then under the following conditions, the yarn speed of service is 10 meters/minute, the multifilament tension force that the guide leno is drawn is 163 to 172 grams and be 410 to 436 grams from the multifilament tension force that the guide roller is returned, and the multifilament leno that acts as a guide self is intersected with all going up in the direction identical with first twist (in the S direction) when the guide roller is returned when drawing.In this method, multifilament is subjected to the distortion and the friction of about 360 degree, thus the multifilament that obtains fluffing.
With uptwister the multifilament of three fluffings is carried out end in the Z direction with 709 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m) and twist with the fingers processing, thereby obtain having the long filament textured yarn of filoplume.The long filament textured yarn that obtains has following characteristic.
The filoplume number of 1 to 5 millimeters long: 212/meter
1.5 the filoplume number to 5 millimeters long: 48/meter
Breaking strength: 1240 gram (intensity: 5.5 gram/dawn)
In above-mentioned fluffing processing, find that monofilament in the multifilament is that 6 threads of 6 DENIER do not have a velamen to be cut into short silk, and monofilament is that 36 threads of 1 DENIER all are cut into short silk in the multifilament, as shown in Figure 8.
When making plain fabric with the long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume of gained, the plain fabric of production has soft hand feeling, breathes out upright (hari) (crease-resistant stiffness) and section and wishes (Koshi) (stiffness).
On the other hand, use the method identical that the long filament textured yarn of resulting band filoplume is estimated with sewing thread as machine with example 1.Found that this machine has good high-speed sewing performance and automatic sewing performance with sewing thread, makes the stitching of finished product that good surface appearance is arranged simultaneously.
Under identical fluffing condition, with the multifilament of example 1 by comparison, the multifilament of example 2 has the intensity of more filoplume number and Geng Gao.
(comparative example 1)
A kind of polyester multifilament (70 DENIER-48 rhizoid) carries out first twist processing with the up twisting machine shown in Fig. 3 with 966 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m).Three gained multifilament are flocked together, with 709 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m) it is carried out twisting with the fingers end processing in the Z direction then.The filament yarn that comprises each multifilament of gained is wrapped under the following conditions~the guide roller on, the speed of service is 10 meters/minute, its tension force of the filament yarn that the guide leno draws is 112 to 124 grams, its tension force of long filament of returning with the guide roller is 290 to 320 grams, makes filament yarn act as a guide leno when drawing and all intersect in S direction self when the guide roller is returned.Filament yarn stands the distortion and the friction of about 360 degree in this method, thereby obtains the long filament textured yarn of band filoplume.The distribution of its filoplume of gained long filament textured yarn is presented among Fig. 2, and other following characteristics are arranged.
The filoplume number of 1 to 5 millimeters long: 5/meter
1.5 the filoplume number to 5 millimeters long: 0/meter
Breaking strength: 1000 gram (intensity: 4.5 gram/dawn)
In above-mentioned fluffing is handled, though in multifilament all 48 all be cut into short silk, the number of the silk of each length is uneven, most of length is longer.
When making plain fabric with the long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume of gained, the plain fabric that obtains with the plain fabric of raw yarn production is the same very strong sliminess arranged.
When the long filament textured yarn of gained is estimated with method identical in the example 1 with sewing thread as machine, find that the machine of this long filament textured yarn and example 1,2 and 3 has relatively poor sewing performance by comparison with sewing thread.
The gained machine is presented in the table 1 with the evaluation result of sewing thread on sewing performance.
(comparative example 2)
A kind of polyester multifilament (70 DENIER-48 rhizoid) carries out first twist processing with 966 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m) to it in the S direction with uptwister shown in Figure 3.The multifilament of gained is being wrapped under the following condition on the guide roller, the speed of service is 10 meters/minute, its tension force of the multifilament that the guide leno draws is 34 to 38 grams, its tension force of multifilament of returning from the guide roller is 120 to 143 grams, makes multifilament act as a guide leno when drawing and all intersect in S direction self when the guide roller is returned.In this method, multifilament stands the distortion and the friction of about 360 degree, thereby obtains to have the filament yarn of filoplume.
The three threads yarns that then will obtain like this flock together, and with 709 sth. made by twisting/rice (T/m) it are carried out end in the Z direction and twist with the fingers processing, thereby obtain the long filament textured yarn.The filoplume of gained long filament textured yarn distributes and is presented among Fig. 2 with comparative example 2, and also has other following characteristics.
The filoplume number of 1 to 5 millimeters long: 45/meter
1.5 the filoplume number to 5 millimeters long: 4/meter
Breaking strength: 1015 gram (intensity: the .6 gram/dawn)
In above-mentioned fluffing processing, though 48 rhizoids in a multifilament all are cut into short silk, the number of the silk of each length is uneven, and most of length is longer.
When making plain fabric with the long filament textured yarn of the band filoplume of gained, the gained plain fabric with the plain fabric of raw yarn production is the same very strong sliminess arranged.
When the long filament textured yarn of gained is estimated with method identical in the example 1 with sewing thread as machine, show that the machine of this long filament textured yarn and example 1,2 and 3 has relatively poor sewing performance by comparison with sewing thread.
The gained machine is presented in the table 1 with the evaluation result of sewing thread on sewing performance.
The applicability of industry
The long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff of the present invention has filoplume similar to staple fibre yarn and bulkiness, can be used for making the woven fabric or the knitted fabric of soft feeling and high-grade feel.
With common staple fibre yarn or common fluffing filament yarn by comparison the long filament textured yarn higher yarn intensity is arranged, and the feel identical with staple fibre yarn arranged.Therefore, can be with it as the sewing thread that good high-speed sewing performance is arranged.
Table 1
Assessment item Example Relatively Relatively Relatively Relatively
1 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4
(a) with staple fibre yarn sewing performance (%) more backward 95-98 85-90 90-95 - 10-20
(b) compare high-speed sewing performance (%) with staple fibre yarn 50-70 40-60 40-60 - 20-40
(c) maintenance (%) of sewing back intensity 80-85 70-75 70-75 90-95 50-70

Claims (5)

1. long filament textured yarn that has spun yarn like fluff, it is undertaken twisting with the fingers end and getting by the many multifilament that have first twist, it is characterized in that, a part of monofilament of forming this multifilament is cut into short silk, at least one end of each short silk by or first twist or twist with the fingers eventually be fixed in this multifilament, thereby from this multifilament surface the outstanding filoplume that becomes, every meter of this long filament textured yarn has 100 to 400 of the filoplumes of 1 to 5 millimeters long, 1.5 to 30 of 5 millimeters long filoplumes or more than, its yarn intensity was 4.7 to 6 gram/dawn.
2. according to the described spun yarn like fluff long filament textured yarn that has of claim 1, it is characterized in that each multifilament is made up of 30 to 300 threads, and is made up of the long filament with identical monofilament fineness, a part of long filament wherein is cut into short silk.
3. according to the described spun yarn like fluff long filament textured yarn that has of claim 1, it is characterized in that, each multifilament is made up of 30 to 300 threads, and is made up of two kinds of long filaments with different monofilament finenesses at least, and the less long filament of monofilament fineness wherein is cut into short silk.
4. a production method that has the long line textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff is characterized in that it comprises: have the multifilament of first twist to flock together with at least two kinds; This multifilament that flocks together is hung on the thread-carrier, and the guiding multifilament is centering on thread-carrier with returning forward on the both direction; By self intersecting of two multifilament going to thread-carrier and return from thread-carrier, thereby and apply distortion for this multifilament and friction makes the multifilament fluffing; Multifilament to the band filoplume carries out whole sth. made by twisting, thereby obtains the long filament textured yarn with spun yarn like fluff.
5. according to the described production method that has the long filament textured yarn of spun yarn like fluff of claim 4, it is characterized in that, be wrapped in this multifilament on the thread-carrier and be directed with forward and return both direction and fluff around thread-carrier and add man-hour, the speed of service of yarn be 3-100 rice/minute.
CN 95195257 1995-05-31 1995-05-31 Textured yarn having spun yarn like fluff and production method thereof Expired - Lifetime CN1192132C (en)

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EP3514276A4 (en) * 2016-09-14 2020-07-29 Toray Industries, Inc. Fiber-filled material and fiber product using same
CN108118418B (en) * 2016-11-29 2022-01-18 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Feather-like composite textured yarn and preparation method thereof
CN106868662B (en) * 2017-01-06 2019-08-20 东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司 A kind of imitative cotton terylen false twist yarn and manufacturing method and braided fabric
CN111485304A (en) * 2019-01-25 2020-08-04 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Feather-like composite yarn
CN110004550B (en) * 2019-05-15 2021-07-06 江南大学 Production method of filament and staple fiber blended yarn

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