CN1185970C - Rule for dress pattern design - Google Patents

Rule for dress pattern design Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1185970C
CN1185970C CNB021119317A CN02111931A CN1185970C CN 1185970 C CN1185970 C CN 1185970C CN B021119317 A CNB021119317 A CN B021119317A CN 02111931 A CN02111931 A CN 02111931A CN 1185970 C CN1185970 C CN 1185970C
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China
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scale
numerical value
ruler
indicates
proportional
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CNB021119317A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN1385119A (en
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吴厚林
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Individual
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Individual
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Abstract

The present invention discloses a special ruler for a dress pattern design, which is provided with a main ruler, wherein both side edges of a main ruler panel are provided with standard unit scales, and one side is also marked with 1: 5 proportional data; the middle part of the panel is marked with proportional scales and corresponding proportional values; a sliding scale is arranged in a proportional value calculating area of the main ruler. The present invention has the advantage that complex formula calculation is simplified by the special ruler, standard calculated data corresponding to each part is directly found on the ruler for immediate measurement and positioning, the calculation is really combined with the measurement, and work efficiency and accuracy of the pattern design are obviously enhanced. The special ruler for a dress pattern design is suitable for requirements of pattern designs of various styles and various kinds of specification; the present invention integrates the advantages of common rulers, proportional scales, and cutting proportional scales; comprehensive operation of data calculation, proportion calculation, measurement, positioning, drawing, painting, etc., in the process of pattern designs can be completed by one ruler.

Description

Rule for dress pattern design
Technical field
This invention relates to a kind of rule for dress pattern design.
Background technology
At present, in apparel construction, the template design, adopt common ruler, set square or common engineer's scale to measure, chart and paint usually.We know in apparel construction, template design drawing process a large amount of formula, ratio, data computing are arranged, and these calculating have its regularity mostly.Yet common ruler or engineer's scale still not too adapt to the actual needs of model design and operational applications, have inconvenience, generally can not directly calculate, and more can not make to calculate and measurement and positioning unites two into one, so that efficient are not high, and the measurement accuracy rate is low, and easily makes mistakes.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of rule for dress pattern design.
Rule for dress pattern design has main scale, and main scale panel both sides of the edge indicate standard unit's scale; Wherein a side also indicates 1: 5 proportional numerical value, and the panel middle part indicates proportional scale and corresponding proportional numerical value; Main scale ratio evaluation zone is provided with slide scale.
Advantage of the present invention is: use this special ruler at first to simplify complicated formula and calculate, can from ruler, directly find the corresponding specification calculated data in each position of model, measure immediately and locate, realized that really calculating and measurement unite two into one, obviously improved the correctness of model design work efficient and calculating.Use common ruler after obtaining concrete specification data, to measure as everybody knows; Use common engineer's scale, calculate though can carry out ratio, that can not carry out surely cun adds deduct again, and also just can not directly measure and locate, and should calculate proportional numbers earlier usually, after adding deduct surely cun, measures palpus process multiprogramming again with the chi of standard unit; Yet the so-called cutting engineer's scale of some special uses often with the regular size design at some position, is taked the corresponding fixed point of measuring in addition, so the shortage changeability can not adapt to the multifarious model designing requirement of the popular variation of modern clothing style, does not more have design concept.This model design specialized chi provided by the invention, the model design needs that just adapt to various styles, all size requirement fully, it has gathered the strong point of standard rule, engineer's scale and cutting engineer's scale, uses one ruler just can finish comprehensively work such as the data computation of model design process, ratio calculating, measurement and positioning, drawing drawing.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is a structural representation of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is the cross-sectional view of main scale;
Fig. 3 is the structural representation of main scale;
Fig. 4 is the cross-sectional view of slide scale;
Fig. 5 is the structural representation of slide scale;
Fig. 6 is that template eckband structure is drawn schematic diagram;
Fig. 7 is that template shoulder breadth structure is drawn schematic diagram;
Fig. 8 is that template armhole structure is drawn schematic diagram;
Fig. 9 is the enlarged drawing that the A of Fig. 8 is ordered;
Figure 10 is the enlarged drawing that the B of Fig. 8 is ordered;
Figure 11 is the enlarged drawing that the C of Fig. 8 is ordered;
Among the figure: 1, main scale, 2, standard unit's scale and numerical value, 3, proportional numerical value, 4, calculation window, 5, red graticule, 6, scale standard unit scale and numerical value, 7, fixing button and fixture, 8, slide scale, 9, the slide scale track, 10, the horizontal sanction face of main scale, 11, scale catching groove track, 12, standard unit's scale and numerical value, 13,1: 3 scale, 14,1: 6 numerical value, 15,1: 3 numerical value, 16, standard unit's scale, 17,1: 5 numerical value, 18,1: 4 numerical value, 19,1: 2 numerical value, 20, standard unit's numerical value, 21, rubber envelope bolt, 22,1: 5 numerical value, 23 standard unit's scale and numerical value, 24, the horizontal sanction face of slide scale, 25, scale calculation window hyaline membrane, 26, catching groove, 27, ruler origin, 28, ratio indicates, and 29, mark calculates and indicates.
The specific embodiment
Rule for dress pattern design has main scale 1, and main scale panel both sides of the edge indicate standard unit's scale 2,12; Wherein a side also indicates 1: 5 ratio data 22; The panel middle part indicates proportional scale and corresponding proportional numerical value 3; Main scale ratio evaluation zone is provided with slide scale 8.
The scale graduation that described panel middle part indicates is that 1: 3 (13) and 1: 1 (16) and corresponding proportional numerical value are 1: 6 (14), 1: 3 (15), 1: 5 (17), 1: 4 (18), 1: 2 (19), 1: 1 (20).
A wherein lateral edges of main scale is provided with the track 9 of slide scale; The blade front is provided with the track 11 of slide scale catching groove, and the track two ends also are provided with rubber sealing bolt 21.
Said slide scale is provided with calculation window 4, covers organic transparent material 25 on the window, and indicates the red graticule 5 that calculates; The window both sides indicates ratio respectively and indicates 1: 6,1: 3,1: 5,1: 4,1: 2,1: 1 (28) and ratio calculating sign 2/5,3/5,3/4,3/10 (29); Scale one lateral edges indicates master scale and numerical value 6, is made as initial point 27 with red graticule position, and standard unit's numerical value increases progressively to two ends, 2 centimetres of initial point left side marks, 8 centimetres of right side marks; Design has fixture 29 in the catching groove of scale another side middle part, is equipped with on the panel and stirs fixing button and fixture 7, dials tightly to right, play the nonadjustable signal effect, and spring leaf is slided in design in the scale catching groove.
The present invention at first is a kind of ruler of standard unit, has the ratio computing function simultaneously again, and it has contained the required ratio calculating of template design practical application, really makes to calculate with measurement to unite two into one, and has improved design work efficient and accuracy greatly.
The present invention concludes the practical application of apparel construction and model design, and the main proportionate relationship that adopts is 1: 2,1: 3,1: 4,1: 5,1: 6,1: 10,3/10,2/5,3/5,2/3 etc.Main scale is based on common ruler, and the two edges scale is designed to standard unit's (promptly centimetre) scale, wherein puts on 1: 5 the corresponding numerical value of ratio on one side below standard unit's numerical value.Standard unit's scale uses as the standard rule subfunction, measurement and drafting when 1: 5 corresponding proportional numerical value can be used as the apparel construction designing and mapping.On the main scale panel with 1: 3 ratio design scale, and corresponding numerical value of four row such as correspondence puts on the numerical value of two row 1: 6 and 1: 3, again with master scale, puts on 1: 5,1: 4,1: 2 and standard unit.Form a series of ratio evaluations district.Slidably scale of one deck is set in this proportional numerical value district, and this scale designs scale with standard unit, and scale is an initial point with red graticule, and numerical value increases progressively to two ends, as the surveying marker that adds deduct; A window is set on slide scale calculates with displaying ratio numerical value, this window covers organic transparent material, and indicating has redness (calculating) contraposition graticule, window both sides to indicate ratio sign and ratio calculating sign respectively; Also be provided with fixture and button handsetting on the slide scale, play the nonadjustable signal effect.
Main position, up to neck dark as: front mid-arnhole, across back, armhole, horizontal open-neck collar, preceding chest measurement etc. in the design of apparel construction and model, computing formula generally is: " ratio value chest measurement (or other specification)+fixed cun ".For example the front mid-arnhole formula is " 1/6 chest measurement+1.5 ".As long as known chest measurement specification, proportional numerical value on find chest measurement number and corresponding scale at 1: 6 at ruler, mobile slide scale makes the red graticule of calculation window aim at this scale, and the slide scale fixing button is dialled tightly, from ruler origin (reorder cun) 1.5 centimetres to the right, be the measurement fixed point of front mid-arnhole again.In addition, ratio is calculated the data computation when also can be used for specifications design.
Among Fig. 6: model design (eckband structure) embodiment of the present invention.The eckband structure is by up to neck, horizontal open-neck collar location.Usually calculate with " 1/5 neck enclose+(or-) fixed cun " and get.Enclosing specification as the neck of certain clothes is 40 centimetres, up to neck=1/5 neck encloses+and 0.5=8.5 centimetre; Horizontal open-neck collar=1/5 neck encloses-0.5=7.5 centimetre.
Concrete operations: horizontal open-neck collar.Mobile scale 8 makes red graticule 5 aim at 1: 5 serial 17 numerical value 40, and dials and fasten button 7 nonadjustable signals.Main scale starting point alignment antemedial line 30, the chi edge is drawn close upper horizontal line 31,0.5 locatees left from ruler origin 27, and this point is horizontal open-neck collar 32 for SNP SIDE NECK POINT.
Up to neck.The scale location is constant, main scale starting point alignment upper horizontal line, and the chi edge is drawn close antemedial line 30,0.5 locatees to the right from ruler origin, and this point is a up to neck 33 for neck den (foreneck mid point).
Among Fig. 7: the embodiment of model design of the present invention (shoulder breadth structure).Preceding shoulder breadth refers to front cut pieces shoulder breadth location, calculates with 1/2 shoulder across-0.5 usually; Back shoulder breadth is generally 1/2 shoulder across, if there is omoplate to economize, then should add province's amount.Example: establishing shoulder across is 42, then preceding shoulder breadth=1/2 shoulder across-0.5=20.5; Back shoulder breadth=1/2 shoulder across+1.5 (province's amount).
Concrete operations: preceding shoulder breadth.Mobile scale 8 makes red graticule 5 aim at 1: 2 serial 19 numerical value 42, and dials and fasten button 7 nonadjustable signals.Main scale starting point alignment antemedial line 30, the chi edge is drawn close upper horizontal line 31,0.5 locatees left from ruler origin 27, and this anchor point is a shoulder breadth point 36.
Back shoulder breadth.The scale location is constant, main scale starting point alignment postmedial line 34, and the chi edge is drawn close upper horizontal line, 1.5 locatees to the right from ruler origin, and this anchor point is a shoulder breadth point 35.
Among Fig. 8: model design (armhole structure) embodiment of the present invention.The armhole structure is to refer to that with spacing, front mid-arnhole that armhole is a upper horizontal line at the bottom of the armhole deeply chest width point to spacing, the across back of antemedial line refers to that postmedial line to the positions such as spacing of across back point constitute.Usually these positions can be calculated by " 1/6 chest measurement+fixed cun " and be obtained.Example: establishing chest measurement is 98, and formula is: armhole is dark=and 1/6 chest measurement+7; Front mid-arnhole=1/6 chest measurement+1.5; Across back=1/6 chest measurement+2.5.
Concrete operations: armhole is dark.Mobile scale 8 makes red graticule 5 aim at 1: 5 serial 17 numerical value 98, and dials and fasten button 7 nonadjustable signals.Main scale rises and accounts for some an alignment upper horizontal line 31, and the chi edge is drawn close antemedial line 30, from ruler origin 27 7 fixed points to the right, sees shown in Figure 9ly, and crossing this point, to make the vertical line of antemedial line be the armhole bottom line, and promptly BL BUST LINE 39.
Front mid-arnhole.The scale location is constant, main scale starting point alignment antemedial line, and the chi edge is drawn close BL BUST LINE, 1.5 fixes a point to the right from ruler origin, sees shown in the figure ten, and this point is chest width point, crosses the parallel lines that this point is made antemedial line, is chest breadth line 38.
Across back.The scale location is constant, main scale starting point alignment postmedial line, and the chi edge is drawn close BL BUST LINE, 2.5 fixes a point to the right from ruler origin, sees shown in the figure 11, and this fixed point is the across back point, crosses the parallel lines that this point is made antemedial line, is across back line 37.
The present invention is used as five equilibrium measurement and positioning embodiment: a certain position of five equilibrium, measure the spacing at branch positions such as needs earlier with master scale 12, and umber such as foundation is a proportional numbers again, finds corresponding scale on engineer's scale.As the spacing that records the five equilibrium position is 24 centimetres, if be divided into 3 five equilibriums, mobile scale 8 is positioned on the data 24 of 1: 3 series 15 sign red graticule 5, and this moment, standard unit's 20 numerical value of red graticule correspondence were 8, be that every equal portions are 8 centimetres, fix a point with ruler origin; If be divided into 4 five equilibriums, then red graticule is aimed at 1: 4 series 18 and is indicated numerical value 24, can get on the series of values in corresponding 1: 1 equally and whenever be divided into 6 centimetres.But multiple five equilibriums such as this chi five equilibrium 2,3,4,5,6,8,10,12 are contained the five equilibrium commonly used of template design substantially.
The present invention still possesses the function of common ruler and engineer's scale, can be used for the apparel construction designing and mapping.Embodiment: 1: 5 ratio drawing.Adopt one side of fricton-tight scale,, indicate on the numerical value, find corresponding scale 1: 5 series 22 according to the actual specification data at concrete position, and with this measurement and positioning and drawing.Equally also can apply to the drawing of other ratio.
The present invention also can be used as special-purpose engineer's scale and carries out data computation except that the measurement that is used for the model design, drawing, drawing.Particularly in clothing specification design, be basis when carrying out the series specification design with unification type, usually the specification at each position all be with number and the specification of type be radix, acquisition after ratio is calculated and placed.As: long=No. 2/5+fixed cun in clothing; Shoulder across=3/10 type+fixed cun; Sleeve length=No. 3/10+fixed cun; Lead to enclose=1/4 type+fixed cun; Trousers length=No. 3/5+fixed cun.Or the like.This class is calculated and all can be used special ruler to calculate.
Embodiment: the number of establishing type is " 160/84A ".
No. 2/5=64.Concrete calculating: indicate shown in 29 according to calculating, mobile scale 8 makes red graticule 5 aim at 1: 5 serial 17 numerical value 160, and corresponding 1: 2 serial 19 numerical value 64 of at this moment red graticule are the calculating answer.
No. 3/5=96.In like manner, mobile scale makes red graticule aim at numerical value 160, and this moment, 1: 3 series (15) numerical value 96 of graticule correspondence was exactly answer.
3/10 type=25.2.Concrete operations: according to calculating shown in the sign, mobile scale makes red graticule aim at 1: 1 serial 20 numerical value 8.4 (i.e. 8.4 10=84), and pairing 1: 3 serial 15 numerical value 25.2 of at this moment red graticule are answers.
1/4 type=21.Concrete operations: mobile scale makes red graticule aim at 1: 4 serial 18 numerical value 84, and corresponding 1: 1 serial 20 numerical value 21 of red graticule promptly are answers.

Claims (4)

1, a kind of rule for dress pattern design is characterized in that: it has main scale (1), and main scale panel both sides of the edge indicate standard unit's scale (2), (12); Wherein a side also indicates 1: 5 ratio data (22) panel middle part and indicates proportional scale and corresponding proportional numerical value (3); Main scale ratio evaluation zone is provided with slide scale (8).
2, according to claims 1 described a kind of rule for dress pattern design.It is characterized in that: the scale graduation that described panel middle part indicates is that 1: 3 (13) and 1: 1 (16) and corresponding proportional numerical value are 1: 6 (14), 1: 3 (15), 1: 5 (17), 1: 4 (18), 1: 2 (19), 1: 1 (20).
3, according to claims 1 described a kind of rule for dress pattern design.It is characterized in that: a wherein lateral edges of main scale is provided with the track (9) of slide scale; The blade front is provided with the track (11) of slide scale catching groove, and the track two ends also are provided with rubber sealing bolt (21).
4, according to claims 1 described a kind of rule for dress pattern design, it is characterized in that: described slide scale is provided with calculation window (4), covers organic transparent material (25) on the window, and indicates the red graticule (5) that calculates; The window both sides indicates ratio respectively and indicates 1: 6,1: 3,1: 5,1: 4,1: 2,1: 1 (28) and ratio calculating sign 2/5,3/5,3/4,3/10 (29); Scale one lateral edges indicates master scale and numerical value (6), is made as initial point (27) with red graticule position, and standard unit's numerical value increases progressively to two ends, 2 centimetres of initial point left side marks, 8 centimetres of right side marks; Design has fixture (29) in the catching groove of scale another side middle part, and panel is provided with button handsetting (7), dials tightly to right, plays the nonadjustable signal effect, and spring leaf is slided in design in the scale catching groove.
CNB021119317A 2002-05-30 2002-05-30 Rule for dress pattern design Expired - Fee Related CN1185970C (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CNB021119317A CN1185970C (en) 2002-05-30 2002-05-30 Rule for dress pattern design

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CNB021119317A CN1185970C (en) 2002-05-30 2002-05-30 Rule for dress pattern design

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CN1385119A CN1385119A (en) 2002-12-18
CN1185970C true CN1185970C (en) 2005-01-26

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CN103404989A (en) * 2013-07-29 2013-11-27 昆山市周市斐煌服饰厂 Multifunctional ruler for costume designing

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