CN1128592C - Garment cutting method and cutting ruler - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a garment cutting method and a cutting ruler. The cutting method has the advantages of simple process of drawing, no need of memorizing and convenient sewing. A rectangular coordinate system is firstly created during drawing; then, a part of connection points and auxiliary points of the other part of the connection points are positioned according to functional coordinates; the other part of the connection points use the respective auxiliary points as starting points; each connection point is connected according to proportion size or the set size and positions, and a garment piece picture is formed. The cutting ruler can relieve the calculation of drawing during cutting. The cutting ruler is mainly composed of a base ruler and a slide ruler, wherein the slide ruler can move on the base ruler; a slide ruler positioning scale and curved lines are arranged on the base ruler; each curved line is intersected with positioning lines of the slide ruler; the corresponding length of each intersecting point is used for the length of drawing.

Description

Tailoring ruler

The present invention relates to clothing cutting tool, be specifically related to a kind of tailoring ruler.

At present, the normally used pro rate cutting-out method of tailoring, each spot size of clothes is to use the certain proportion plus-minus fixed dimension of the specification of relevant position with it to determine that drawing by each spot size constitutes the garment piece frame of graphics, and " fixed point is made arc " promptly forms the garment piece figure on this basis.This cutting-out method not only will remember to cut drawing order and computing formula, and will carry out loaded down with trivial details calculating, is difficult for grasping, and has influenced the popularization and application of tailoring technique.

The proportion expression cutting-out method of Chu Xianing in recent years, each spot size of clothes has made upper garment half chest measurement into, and trousers are determined with half hip circumference percentage, simplified formula, " clothes linea angulata tailor's measure " (Chinese patent GG86300412) can remove calculating from its special ruler, and this special ruler is the chi that precentagewise is drawn.Because the percentage of each configuration item of clothing same area (as shoulder breadth) is identical, the clothes of often tailoring do not meet human body, again because its special ruler has the trouble of calculating " basic chi " number in use, and the inconvenience of easily getting lines crossed is being looked into and is being recognized, unevaluated advantage is almost offset by the long-time meticulous process of checking, the people of many cuttings gives it up, so this cutting-out method fails to promote.

For cutting ruler of the present invention is better used, provide a kind of function coordinate cutting-out method at this, at first set up rectangular coordinate system during this method drawing, and then determine the position of some points according to the function coordinate, be basis size or what decide that little progress row " fixed point is made arc " draws is exactly the garment piece figure in proportion with these points.The function coordinate is meant a pair of function that is of a size of the coordinate that can calculate a point on the garment piece figure of independent variable with the amount body region.This method need not be drawn structural framing, and drafting method is simple, and the clothes junction is which kind of specification no matter, can both accurately sew up, and apparel modeling is stable fit, and cutting figure is succinctly directly perceived, can exempt from memory, and it is rapid-result to be beneficial to study.But still the shortcoming that will calculate when charting is arranged, be unfavorable for improving cutting speed and apply.

The objective of the invention is one provide a kind of simple in structure, be convenient to operation, be convenient to look into and recognize, can eliminate the computational process of tailoring, can remove the transfer process of result of calculation and physical length from, can improve the chart garment-cutting scissors chi of speed of cutting.

A kind of tailoring ruler, it is made of basic chi and slide rule, being positioned at above the basic chi and with basic chi that slide rule is horizontal is slidingly connected, on the base chi face Position Scale that is of a size of the slide rule of scale with the amount body region is arranged, also has the definite ratio figure line of body region different proportion according to quantity on the base chi face, the edge of each ratio figure line and slide rule intersects, and the size of each intersection point correspondence is the actual size that is used to chart.Slide rule is according to quantity after the body sizing, and then finds the ratio figure line of drawing position correspondence according to ratio, and this ratio figure line this moment size corresponding with the intersection point at slide rule edge looked into the size at the position of charting exactly.

A located lateral line is arranged on the described slide rule.

For ease of difference, prevent to get lines crossed because of visual error causes, described ratio figure line self all has color; Base chi face also scribbles shades of colour, and the line of demarcation of adjacent color is the ratio figure line.

On the described basic chi vertical guide is arranged, slide rule can move along guide rail.For making accuracy of reading, this cutting ruler is provided with slide sign, and slide sign is enclosed within on the blade or with basic chi slip and links to each other.

Another kind of tailoring ruler, it is by basic chi, slide rule and balladeur train constitute, what balladeur train can laterally slide is installed on the basic chi, what slide rule can vertically slide is installed on the balladeur train, the Position Scale that is of a size of the slide rule of scale with the amount body region is arranged on the balladeur train or on the basic chi face, also has the definite ratio figure line of body region different proportion according to quantity on the base chi face, the edge of each ratio figure line and slide rule intersects, the size of each intersection point correspondence is the actual size that is used to chart, slide rule is according to quantity after the body sizing, find the ratio figure line of drawing position correspondence again according to ratio, this ratio figure line this moment size corresponding with the intersection point at slide rule edge looked into the size at the position of charting exactly.

Described basic chi has cross slide way, and balladeur train can move along cross slide way; Balladeur train has vertical guide, and slide rule can move along vertical guide.

Cutting ruler of the present invention mainly is made of basic chi and slide rule, and is simple in structure, and cost is low, is convenient to operation.Crossing because of the position line of each ratio figure line and slide rule, the size of each intersection point correspondence is the size that is used to chart, thus use this chi cutting drawing to calculate, and can remove the transfer process of result of calculation and physical length from; Because of position line has only one, recognize again, and accurately do not get lines crossed when searching so this chi is convenient to look into.Therefore promptly accurate again rapidly with this chi cutting drawing.

The present invention is described in more detail below in conjunction with drawings and Examples:

Fig. 1 is a principle schematic of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is the front view of the embodiment of the invention 1.

Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram of the embodiment of the invention 1.

Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram of the embodiment of the invention 2.

Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of the embodiment of the invention 3.

Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of the embodiment of the invention 4.

Fig. 7 is the schematic diagram of the embodiment of the invention 5.

Fig. 8 is the schematic diagram of the embodiment of the invention 6.

In these figure of Fig. 8, identical or similar parts use identical label at Fig. 1.

In principle of the invention schematic diagram shown in Figure 1.Tailoring ruler is made up of basic chi 1, slide rule 2 and slide sign 3.Slide rule 2 is positioned on the basic chi 1 and is parallel to basic chi 1, and slide sign 3 is positioned at above the slide rule 2 and perpendicular to basic chi 1.Slide rule 2 and slide sign 3 all are transparent.The size of the transverse axis t amount of the expression body region of rectangular coordinate system (being the main position of clothes), longitudinal axis z represent the to chart size at position.Transverse axis is that an engineer's scale (is represented 1 centimetre with a/b centimetre, the a value is equal to or less than the width of designed cutting ruler, general a equals basic chi width and subtracts 1 centimetre, and the b value is selected according to the clothing specification scope, generally equals the difference of the upper limit m and the lower limit n of chest measurement and hip circumference specification limit).The longitudinal axis is a centimetre of chi.Cutting ruler is in rectangular coordinate system, and two long limits of its basic chi face overlap with straight line t=n and straight line t=m respectively, and a minor face of basic chi face is on the t axle.

In rectangular coordinate system, owing to only need just can determine the image of direct proportion function according to proportionality coefficient.Therefore for ease of explanation, (z is the size at drawing position for k＞0, the size of the t amount of being body region with direct proportion function z=kt in the present invention.) image, promptly straight line z=kt is called the ratio figure line.Be clipped in the image of the direct proportion function z=kt between straight line t=n and t=m centimetre, can be described as the k ratio figure line to m centimetre by n.As can be seen, a part of image that is drawn in the direct proportion function z=kt of basic chi face is n to m centimetre k ratio figure line.Correspondingly the n of t axle is drawn in the two ends of basic chi face to the scale (this section scale calls the Position Scale 6 of slide rule 2) of m section, and draws the z ' axle identical with the z axle at the edge of basic chi face.Like this, if n≤t≤m by certain value of t, just can find corresponding z value on cutting ruler.For example, get t=c by the amount body, elder generation's translation slide rule 2 makes the position line 8 on the slide rule 2 overlap with the c scale of Position Scale 6, and this moment, position line 8 intersected at A point (if draw a number axis identical with the z axle on slide rule 2, just can read the ordinate z=d of an A) with k ratio figure line.The translation slide sign 3 again, and the hair line 10 on the slide sign 3 is overlapped with the A point, and this moment, hair line 10 overlapped with the d scale of the z ' axle at basic chi edge, so some A ordinate z=d.Therefore the size value at position of charting as can be known is d centimetre, and its physical length is exactly the length of d scale correspondence, promptly by the distance of 0 scale to the d scale.

On basic chi face, not only can draw the image of direct proportion function, also can draw the linear function between each region of interest of clothes, the image of various functions such as quadratic function, as drawing the image of shoulder breadth and chest measurement quadratic function, so size at each position of clothes, can be on such cutting ruler, according to the size of its region of interest, find by corresponding functional picture.

Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 3 is made of basic chi 1, slide rule 2, slide sign 3.Slide rule 2 can vertically slide on basic chi 1.A vertical ladder type chute is respectively opened at the two ends of base chi 1, bottom land is embedded with iron bar 4, and the two ends of slide rule 2 are bonded with magnetic stripe 5, and magnetic stripe 5 can prevent that with iron bar 4 adhesives back, slide rule location string is moving in trapezoidal chute, slide sign 3 is embedded in the transverse concave groove of opening basic chi 1 both sides, can laterally slide.As shown in Figure 2, basic chi face has two horizontal parallel lines 12.Between two horizontal parallel lines, the Position Scale 6 of slide rule 2 is carved with at basic chi face two ends respectively, and the distance of each adjacent scale of scale equates.The scale 6 of right-hand member indicates 30 to 60 centimetres, 60 to 120 centimetres, 120 to 240 centimetres three row sizes, and they have exceeded usage range, and the ratio of identical graduation institute target size is 1/2: 1: 2; The scale 6 of left end indicates 60 to 120 centimetres size, article two, also be arranged with the left side between the horizontal parallel lines 12 be 60 to 120 centimetres of benchmark 1%, 2% ... the ratio figure line 7 of 35% different colours, the color of ratio figure line 7 are intended for their mark of difference.Their color be respectively deceive, red, orange, yellow, green, blue or green, blue, purple, powder, palm fibre, black, red, orange ... blue or green.1%, 2% ... the numeral 1,2 of 35% each ratio figure line mark ... the 35th, numbering separately.Each ratio figure line can be found by numbering separately.For example: search 25% ratio figure line, finding on basic chi and being numbered 25 ratio figure line is exactly 25% ratio figure line.Be each ratio figure line of easier difference, basic chi face also scribbles white, shallow green grass or young crops, light gray, four kinds of colors of shallow rice by its left end to right-hand member.White blue or green dichromatism line of demarcation is 10% ratio figure line 7, steel gray dichromatism line of demarcation is 20% ratio figure line 7, the line of demarcation of ash rice dichromatism is 30% ratio figure line 7, for every ratio figure line of quick identification, the color of the color of each ratio figure line and basic chi face also can be used as the colour coding of each ratio figure line 7 numbering of expression simultaneously.The number of each ratio figure line 7 numbering is represented with the color of ratio figure line, and promptly units 0 to 9 is respectively with black, red, orange, yellow, green, blue or green, blue, purple, powder, ten kinds of colors representatives of palm fibre; Tens is represented with the color of basic chi face.Be that tens 0,1,2,3 is respectively with white, blue or green, ash, four kinds of color representatives of rice.For example, determining the ratio figure line 7 of 25% on the basic chi, can look for the gray area of basic chi face earlier, found the ratio figure line of cyan again by this zone, is exactly 25% ratio figure line 7.For ease of reading, also being arranged with 1 centimetre on the basic chi face is the vertical line 11 at interval.There are a centimetre of chi and one 1/2 engineer's scale in base chi face upper edge, is zero graduation with basic chi left side all.Centimetre chi is a station meter.The length that 60 to 120 centimetres of each size precentagewises finding can be distributed with 1/2 engineer's scale dwindle 2 times and amplify 2 times, and obtain the length of 30 to 60 centimetres and 120 to 240 centimetres each size precentagewise distribution; 1/2 engineer's scale also can be used to the picture shoulder breadth.It is 1/5 engineer's scale of zero graduation with basic chi right side that right-hand member has bar, can be used to the picture neckline.A position line 8 is arranged on the slide rule 2.If the location 8 of slide rule 2 scale 6 scales corresponding with certain size overlap, then position line and each ratio figure line intersect " the pro rate chi " that just constitutes this size, " scale " is intersection point, " scale value " is the ratio of ratio figure line correspondence, the length (being the length that scale arrives basic chi left side) that scale (intersection point) is corresponding, be the size that this size is distributed by " scale ratio value ", it is the length that is used to chart.A vertical hair line 10 is arranged on the slide sign 3, for improving precision, hair line 10 left sides on slide sign 3, with a vertical curve be benchmark be arranged with left 60 to 120 centimetres 0.1%, 0.2% ... that 90 of 1% ratio figure lines, the color of each ratio figure line 9 are respectively is black, red, orange, yellow, green, blue or green, blue, purple, powder, palm fibre.

The ratio figure line of 60 to 120 centimetres percentage of present embodiment; Also can be used as the ratio figure line of proportions by subtraction such as 200 of the ratio figure line of proportion by subtraction such as 30 to 60 centimetre 50 or 120 to 240 centimetres.

Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 4, base chi 1 and slide rule clamping plate 15 stick with glue and connect or connect and compose cavity with screw, slide rule 2 can vertically slide in cavity, the two ends of base chi 1 are iron plate 13, be bonded with magnetic stripe 14 on the slide rule 2, magnetic stripe 14 can slide in the vertical chute at slide rule clamping plate 15 two ends, and magnetic stripe 14 is inhaled mutually with iron plate 13 can prevent that back, slide rule 2 location string is moving.Base chi 1 and slide rule clamping plate 15 outsides are with slide sign 3, and slide sign 3 can laterally slide, though demonstration is not arranged among the figure, similar with Fig. 2, Position Scale 6, ratio figure line 7, centimetre chi, 1/2 engineer's scale are arranged, 1/5 engineer's scale on the basic chi face.A located lateral line 8 is arranged on the slide rule 2, a vertical hair line 10 is arranged on the slide sign.

Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 5 is according to some continuous several y ₁, y ₂Y _nThe value of certain proportion m can be respectively with other continuous several x ₁, x ₂X _nThe value of certain proportion m add the method that the value of the certain proportion m of a fixed constant a is determined, change by Fig. 2, cutting ruler shown in Figure 3 and obtain.A vertical upper and lower opening, the up-narrow and down-wide chute that is convex are respectively opened in basic chi 1 two ends of this cutting ruler.Slide rule 2 is on basic chi 1, and the raised line at slide rule 2 two ends is embedded in the top narrow groove of convex chute, can vertically slide.The circular hole at slide rule two ends and convex chute are installed with screw 20, are with rubber cushion in screw 20 lower ends, are equipped with cap nut.All below the convex chute in the sipes, the degree that screws of cap nut can be advisable along basic chi 1 vertical the slip with slide rule 2 for rubber cushion, cap nut, and the effect of rubber cushion is to prevent that the vertical string in back, slide rule 2 location is moving.Slide sign 3 is embedded in the horizontal concrete chute of opening basic chi 1 both sides, can laterally slide.An expansion chi 18 (expansion chi 18 also can be drawn on the basic chi face of basic chi 1 left end lengthening) is arranged on the slide sign 3, it is the chi that 60 centimetres of precentagewises are distributed, the zero graduation on the left side, the graduation mark of expansion chi 18 is vertical curves, what the lower end of graduation mark marked is percentages, zero graduation line with expansion chi 18 is that benchmark has 120 to 180 centimetres to be 16 5 of space ratio figure lines with 0.2% to left bank, and 0 to 60 centimetre 0.5% 17 1 of ratio figure lines are arranged to the right.In addition, with the hair line 10 that is positioned at expansion chi 18 left sides be datum line to left bank have 60 to 120 centimetres 0.2% to be 9 five of the ratio figure lines at interval, have one to be centimetre chi 19 of zero graduation in the upper edge of slide sign 3 with hair line 10.Though do not have demonstration and Fig. 2 similar among the figure, a located lateral line 8 arranged on the slide rule 2.On the base chi face Position Scale 6 is arranged, ratio figure line 7, centimetre chi, 1/2 engineer's scale, 1/5 engineer's scale, the Position Scale 6 of wherein basic chi 1 right-hand member indicates 0 to 60 centimetre, 60 to 120 centimetres, 120 to 180 centimetre of three row size, the relation of three sizes of identical graduation institute target is that full-size subtracts medium size and equals medium size and subtract minimum dimension and equal 60 centimetres, and it is exactly the length of 0 to 60 centimetre and 120 to 180 centimetres each size precentagewise n distribution that the length of distributing at the length that 60 to 120 centimetres that find on the basic chi 1 each size precentagewise n distribute and 60 centimetres of precentagewise n that find on the expansion chi is directly subtracted each other what obtain with addition.

Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 6, the right angle rib on balladeur train 21 left sides and the right is all clipped, and slide rule 2 two ends are stuck on the left and right edge of balladeur train 21, can vertically slide along balladeur train 21.Balladeur train 21 is embedded in the basic chi 1 both sides horizontal concrete chute, and portability slide rule 2 laterally slides.Though do not have demonstration and Fig. 2 similar among the figure, a located lateral line 8 is arranged on the basic chi face, a vertical hair line 10 is arranged on the balladeur train 21, the left margin of balladeur train 21 and the right are along the Position Scale 6 that is carved with slide rule.In addition, also have on the balladeur train 21 with the right hand edge be 60 to 120 centimetres of arranging left of datum line be spaced apart five of 1% ratio figure lines, each ratio figure line lower end indicates integer 36 to 40 from right to left, the numbering 1 to 35 of each ratio figure line 7 lower end on they and the basic chi is continuous, makes the pro rate scope of tailoring ruler expand 0 to 40% to by 0 to 35%.

Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 7, slide rule 2 two ends are embedded in the vertical chute of balladeur train 21 inboards, can vertically slide.Balladeur train 21 is embedded in the horizontal concrete chute of basic chi 1 both sides, can carry slide rule 2 and laterally slide.Though demonstration is not arranged, similar and Fig. 2, proportional figure line 7, centimetre chi, 1/2 engineer's scale, 1/5 engineer's scale on the basic chi face among the figure.A located lateral line 8 is arranged on the slide rule 2, also have on the left frame of balladeur train 21 and the right frame slide rule Position Scale 6, left frame also arrange 60 to 120 centimetres be five of the ratio figure lines at interval with 0.2%.

Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 8, slide rule 2 two ends are connected with balladeur train 21, raised line above slide rule 2 two ends is embedded in the vertical chute that balladeur train 21 opens above, slide rule 2 can vertically slide, elastic clip 23 usefulness screws 22 are fixed on slide rule 2 raised lines, slide rule 2 is clipped on the balladeur train 21, can prevents from vertically to move to string behind slide rule 2 location, intermediate plate 23 is phosphorus bronze sheet or steel disc.Left end balladeur train 21 is embedded in the horizontal short groove of basic chi 1 left end both sides, and the balladeur train 21 of right-hand member is embedded in the horizontal short groove of basic chi 1 right-hand member both sides.Though demonstration is not arranged among the figure, similar Fig. 2 has Position Scale 6 on its chi face, ratio figure line 7, centimetre chi, 1/2 engineer's scale, 1/5 engineer's scale.A located lateral line 8 is arranged on the slide rule 2.For ease of reading, also having by 1 centimetre on the slide rule 2 is spaced vertical line.

Above the slide rule 2, slide sign 3, balladeur train 21 of described various embodiments of the present invention manufacture by transparent material, as use plastics, lucite.Base chi 1 can be manufactured with plastics, lucite, timber, metal etc.

The restriction of the embodiment that the present invention is not provided can change in a lot of places.Be exemplified below:

Ratio figure line 7 can be without color as their mark of difference, and be drawn on the ratio figure line 7 or the symbol on next door as distinguishing mark, as usefulness triangle, round dot, numeral, letter etc. as distinguishing mark.

Position line 8 on the slide rule 2, the hair line 10 on the slide sign 3 all can be eliminated, and uses the edge parallel with them to replace, and therefore available opaque material is made.

Described Position Scale 6 can be drawn in the optional position between two horizontal parallel lines 12 on the basic chi face, not only can be drawn on the vertical line, also can be drawn on the oblique line or on the curve.Have the distance between each adjacent scale of Position Scale 6 also can be different again, the ratio figure line of drawing by this Position Scale 67 is curve or broken line, can improve interior each the dimension Distribution precision of a certain scope so relatively.

It is centimetre chi of zero graduation that the slide rule of Fig. 3, Fig. 4, each cutting ruler shown in Figure 5 all can draw with the left side of basic chi, just can directly read position line 8 and the corresponding size value of each ratio figure line 7 intersection point by slide rule 2 like this.

Fraction scale can be put in the lower end of the ratio figure line 7 on each embodiment base chi face of tailoring ruler of the present invention.Fraction scale 1.5/10 can be put in the lower end of the ratio figure line as 15%.

For adapting to the requirement of same clothes different size (as chest measurement, clothing is long etc.), reduce the number of times of operation slide rule 2 in addition, raise the efficiency, the slide rule 2 on the tailoring ruler can be 2 to 3 or slide rule 2 and increases to 2 to 3 simultaneously with balladeur train 21.

If with two tailoring rulers chi (or T shape chi, perpendicular chi can slide along crossfoot) of squaring up, can once determine the horizontal and vertical position of each point, solving charts the tailoring ruler cutting with one the problem of vertical bar error occurs.

The use of tailoring ruler shown in Figure 3, in conjunction with asking 40 centimetres 80 centimetres, 10% length of 160 centimetres of each sizes and 10.5% length are described as follows:

When being of a size of 80 centimetres, what mobile slide rule 2 made position line 8 and scale 6 indicates 40,80,160 centimetres scale overlaps, and obtain 80 centimetres " pro rate chi " (this chi be this moment position line 8 intersect with each ratio figure line 7 constitute), mobile again slide sign 3 makes hair line 10 overlap with " 10% calibration points " (being meant the intersection point of the ratio figure line 7 of position line 8 and 10%) of " distribution chi ", then 8 centimetres of the length of hair line 10 indications centimetre chi are exactly 80 centimetres 10% length, mobile again slide sign 3 makes the ratio figure line 9 of cyan (promptly 0.5%) overlap with " 10% the calibration points " of " distribution chi ", and then 8.4 centimetres of the length of the datum line indication centimetre chi of each ratio figure line 9 are exactly 80 centimetres 10.5% length on the slide sign 3.

When being of a size of 40 centimetres, mobile slide rule 2 overlaps 40,80,160 centimetres the scale of indicating of position line 8 and scale 6, and obtains 80 centimetres " pro rate chi ".The length that is checked in 80 centimetre 10% by " distribution chi " is 8 centimetres, finds from 1/2 engineer's scale and indicates 8 centimetres scale.4 centimetres of the scales of the corresponding centimetre chi of this scale, promptly be 40 centimetres 10% length (this is because 40 * 10%=1/2 * 80 * 10%, is exactly 40 centimetres 10% length so the 80 * 10%=8 that will check in centimetre length is dwindled 2 times length through 1/2 engineer's scale again).Again by 80 centimetres " " 10.5% the length that checks in 80 centimetres is 8.4 centimetres, finds from 1/2 engineer's scale and indicates 8.4 centimetres scale, and 4.2 centimetres of the scale values of centimetre chi of this scale correspondence promptly are 40 centimetre of 10.5% length to distribute chi.

When being of a size of 160 centimetres, the position line 8 of slide rule 2 is overlapped with the scale that indicates 40,80,160 centimetres, and obtain 80 centimetres " pro rate chi ".Mobile slide sign 3, hair line 10 is overlapped with " 10% the calibration points " of " distribution chi ", then 16 centimetres of the scale values of hair line 10 indications 1/2 engineer's scale are exactly that (this is because behind slide sign 3 location for 160 centimetres 10% size, the scale value of hair line 10 indications 1/2 engineer's scale is 2 times of hair line indication centimetre chi scale value, and this moment hair line 10 indications centimetre chi 8 centimetres of scale values be 80 centimetres 10% size, again because 160 * 10%=2 * 80 * 10%, thus this moment hair line 10 indications 1/2 engineer's scale 16 centimetres of scale values be exactly 160 centimetres 10% size).Mobile again slide sign 3 makes the ratio figure line 9 of cyan (promptly 0.5%) overlap with " 10% the calibration points " of " distribution chi ", and then 16.8 centimetres of the scale values of datum line indication 1/2 engineer's scale of ratio figure line 9 are exactly 160 centimetres 10.5% length.

The length of the percentage of 30 to 60 centimetres of each sizes can be by asking 40 centimetres 10% or 10.5% long method to try to achieve, the length of the percentage of 60 to 120 centimetres of each sizes can be by asking 80 centimetres 10% or 10.5% long method to try to achieve, and the length of the percentage of 120 to 240 centimetres of each sizes can be by asking 160 centimetres 10% or 10.5% long method to try to achieve.

The using method of Fig. 4 and tailoring ruler shown in Figure 5 all can be with reference to the using method of tailoring ruler shown in Figure 3.Tailoring ruler shown in Figure 5 also can utilize the expansion chi of setting up to cooperate and obtain 0 to 60 centimetre and 120 to 240 centimetres of length that each size precentagewise is distributed, in conjunction with 10% and 10.5% the length of asking 40 centimetres, 160 centimetres 10% and 10.6% length is described as follows:

Earlier mobile slide rule 2 allows 40,100,160 centimetres the scale of indicating of position line 8 and Position Scale 6 overlap, and obtains 100 centimetres " pro rate chi ".Mobile again slide sign 3 allows 10% graduation mark of expansion chi 18 overlap with " 10% the calibration points " of " distribution chi ", then basic chi 1 left side is 40 centimetres 10% length to the length of expansion chi 18 zero graduation lines, base chi 1 left side is 40 centimetres 10.5% length along position line 8 to the length of expanding 0 to 60 centimetre of chi 18 10.5% ratio figure line 17, and then mobile slide sign 3 allows the zero graduation line of expansion chi 18 overlap with " 10% the calibration points " of " distribution chi ", and then basic chi 1 left side is 160 centimetres 10% length to the length of 10% graduation mark of expanding chi 18; Mobile again slide sign 3 allows 0.6% ratio figure line 16 of expansion 120 to 180 centimetres of chi 18 overlap with " 10% the calibration points " of " distribution chi ", and then basic chi 1 left side is 160 centimetres 10.6% length to the length of 10% graduation mark of expanding chi 18.

The length of the percentage of 0 to 6 centimetre of each size can be tried to achieve by the method for asking 40 centimetre 10% or 10.5% length, and the length of the percentage of 120 to 180 centimetres of each sizes can be tried to achieve by the method for asking 160 centimetres 10% or 10.6% length.

The using method of tailoring ruler shown in Figure 6 is described as follows in the hope of 38% growth process of 40 centimetres, 80 centimetres, 160 centimetres 10% length and 80 centimetres:

The mobile slide rule 2 of elder generation, the position line 8 that makes slide rule 2 indicates 40 with scale 6,80,160 centimetres scale overlaps, mobile again balladeur train 21, the intersection point that makes position line 8 and hair line 10 overlaps with 10% ratio figure line 7, then 8 centimetres of the length of hair line 10 indications centimetre chi are exactly 80 centimetre 10% length, 16 centimetres of the scale values of hair line 10 indications 1/2 engineer's scale are exactly 160 centimetre 10% size, with 80 centimetres that check in, dwindling 2 times 4 centimetres of length through 1/2 engineer's scale is exactly 40 centimetre 10% length, mobile again balladeur train 21 makes the intersection point of the ratio figure line of position line 8 and 38% overlap with 35% ratio figure line, and then 30.4 centimetres of the length of centimetre chi of balladeur train right hand edge indication are exactly 80 centimetres 38% length.

The size that 30 to 60 centimetres, 60 to 120 centimetres, 120 to 240 centimetres each size precentagewises are distributed can be respectively tried to achieve with reference to the method for looking into 10% the length of getting 40 centimetres, 80 centimetres, 160 centimetres.

The using method of Fig. 7 and tailoring ruler shown in Figure 8 all can be with reference to the using method of tailoring ruler shown in Figure 6.

When tailoring, with cutting ruler drawing of the present invention, can eliminate the computational process of clothing drafting, for example: the function coordinate of any is that (B8%, B5%), B is the notes cun code name of chest measurement.Get chest measurement B=106 centimetre by the amount body, determine the position of this point with cutting ruler shown in Figure 3; At first mobile slide rule 2 makes position line 8 and indicates 53,106,212 centimetres scale overlaps, mobile again slide sign 3 makes hair line 10 and position line 8 and the intersection point of 8% the ratio figure line 7 that finds overlaps, this moment, the length of chi of hair line 10 indications centimetre was exactly the length of x8%=1068% for 8.5 centimetres, in fixed rectangular coordinate system, get 8.5 centimetres from initial point O along x axle positive direction with this dipstick metering and make some M (some M is on the x axle) then.The slide sign 3 that moves this chi again overlaps hair line 10 and position line 8 and the intersection point that finds 5% ratio figure line 7, this moment, the length of hair line 10 indications centimetre chi was exactly the length of B5%=1065% for 5.3 centimetres, light along y axle positive direction from M then and get 5.3 centimetres of work point P with this dipstick metering, point P presses function coordinate (B8%, B5%) Ding Wei point.

Claims (16)

1, a kind of tailoring ruler, it is characterized in that it is made of basic chi (1) and slide rule (2), slide rule (2) laterally is positioned at above the basic chi and with basic chi (1) and is slidingly connected, be shaped on the Position Scale (6) that is of a size of the slide rule (2) of scale with the amount body region on the base chi face, also has the definite ratio figure line (7) of body region different proportion according to quantity on the base chi face, each ratio figure line (7) intersects with the edge of slide rule (2), and the size of each intersection point correspondence is the actual size that is used to chart.

2,, it is characterized in that a located lateral line (8) is arranged on the described slide rule (2) according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 1.

3,, it is characterized in that described ratio figure line (7) self has color according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 1.

4,, it is characterized in that basic chi face is made up of different colours according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 1.

5, according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 4, the line of demarcation that it is characterized in that the adjacent color of described different colours is ratio figure line (7).

6, according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 1, it is characterized in that basic chi (1) has vertical guide, slide rule (2) can move along vertical guide.

7,, it is characterized in that the slide rule clamping plate (15) that join with basic chi (1) are arranged above the described slide rule (2) according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 1.

8, according to claim 6 or 7 described tailoring rulers, it is characterized in that this chi is provided with slide sign (3), slide sign (3) is enclosed within on the blade or with basic chi (1) slip and links to each other.

9,, it is characterized in that a vertical hair line (10) is arranged on the slide sign (3) according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 8.

10, according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 8, it is characterized in that having on the slide sign (3) a horizontal expansion chi (18), said expansion chi (18) is meant the chi of determining by the different proportion of fixed number.

11, a kind of tailoring ruler, it is characterized in that it is made of basic chi (1), slide rule (2) and balladeur train (21), what balladeur train (21) can laterally slide is installed on the basic chi (1), what slide rule (2) can vertically slide is installed on the balladeur train (21), the Position Scale (6) that is of a size of the slide rule (2) of scale with the amount body region is arranged on the balladeur train (21) or on the basic chi face, also has the definite ratio figure line (7) of body region different proportion according to quantity on the base chi face, each ratio figure line (7) intersects with the edge of slide rule (2), and the size of each intersection point correspondence is the actual size that is used to chart.

12,, it is characterized in that a located lateral line (8) is arranged on the described slide rule (2) according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 11.

13,, it is characterized in that described ratio figure line (7) self has color according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 11.

14,, it is characterized in that described basic chi face is made up of different colours according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 11.

15, according to the described tailoring ruler of claim 14, the boundary that it is characterized in that the adjacent color of described different colours is ratio figure line (7).

16, according to claim 11,12,13,14 or 15 described tailoring rulers, it is characterized in that basic chi (1) has cross slide way, balladeur train (21) can move along cross slide way, and balladeur train (21) has vertical guide, and slide rule (2) can slide along vertical guide.

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