CN117462455A - Water-in-oil composition and cosmetic containing the same - Google Patents

Water-in-oil composition and cosmetic containing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN117462455A
CN117462455A CN202311608280.XA CN202311608280A CN117462455A CN 117462455 A CN117462455 A CN 117462455A CN 202311608280 A CN202311608280 A CN 202311608280A CN 117462455 A CN117462455 A CN 117462455A
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China
Prior art keywords
oil
water
oil composition
weight
cosmetic
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CN202311608280.XA
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
周浩淼
李欣航
毕永贤
杜雨涵
李�昊
代晓艳
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Hangzhou Huajingxiang Biotechnology Co ltd
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Hangzhou Huajingxiang Biotechnology Co ltd
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Priority to CN202311608280.XA priority Critical patent/CN117462455A/en
Publication of CN117462455A publication Critical patent/CN117462455A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Abstract

The invention discloses a water-in-oil type composition and a cosmetic containing the same. The oil phase of the water-in-oil composition comprises volatile oil, glidant and macromolecular oil with viscosity of 600-2500 cP. The water-in-oil composition is favorable for quick film formation, fresh and cool skin feel, water resistance and sweat resistance.

Description

Water-in-oil composition and cosmetic containing the same
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a water-in-oil type composition and a cosmetic containing the same.
Background
At present, sun protection cosmetics, anti-pollution cosmetics, anti-oxidation cosmetics and some color cosmetics are required to be coated or sprayed on skin, and corresponding effects can not be exerted after the cosmetics are formed into films. Various functional substances are usually added into the commercial cosmetics, so that the components of the cosmetics are complex, and the defects of difficult dispersion, uneven application, non-ideal film forming speed and the like exist, thereby influencing the uniformity of film forming of the products. Specifically, cosmetic systems are largely classified into oil-in-water systems and water-in-oil systems, but oil-in-water systems have a slow film formation rate; the film-forming cosmetic of the water-in-oil system is usually added with a high dosage of film forming agent to maintain the efficacy, and the film-forming cosmetic is easy to generate sticky skin feel when being applied to skin, has poor air permeability, is easy to be blocked, and has poor use experience.
Therefore, there is a need to develop a product which can quickly form a film, has a fresh skin feel, is waterproof and sweat-proof.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, a main object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil composition and a cosmetic comprising the same. The water-in-oil composition is favorable for quick film formation, fresh and cool skin feel, water resistance and sweat resistance. The water-in-oil composition can be applied to cosmetics to rapidly spread the cosmetics while keeping fresh skin feel, and has waterproof and sweat-proof effects.
In order to achieve the above object, the present disclosure provides the following technical solutions.
A first aspect of the present disclosure provides a water-in-oil composition wherein the oil phase comprises a volatile oil, a slip powder and a macromolecular oil having a viscosity of 600cP to 2500 cP.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the volatile oil is selected from at least one of linear or branched alkanes containing 11 to 13 carbon atoms and polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity of 1.0cst to 2.5 cst; preferably, the volatile oil comprises polydimethylsiloxane with the viscosity of 1.0 cst-2.5 cst; preferably, the volatile oil comprises polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 1.0cst to 1.5cst.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the slip powder is selected from at least one of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane cross-linked polymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica; preferably, the average particle size of the slip-aid particles is 5-12 μm; preferably, the shape of the sliding-aid powder particles is spherical or hemispherical.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the macromolecular lipid has a viscosity of 600cP to 900cP; preferably, the macromolecular grease is at least one selected from polysiloxane-15, polydimethylsiloxane and hydrogenated polyisobutene; more preferably, the macromolecular lipid is polysiloxane-15.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the aqueous phase comprises a biosurfactant; preferably, the aqueous phase comprises 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight of biosurfactant in the water-in-oil composition, based on parts by weight.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the biosurfactant is selected from at least one of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, disodium glycyrrhizinate, sugar esters and sodium surfactin.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the water-in-oil composition includes 60 to 80 parts by weight of the oil phase and 20 to 40 parts by weight of the aqueous phase.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the oil phase comprises 20 to 30 parts by weight of the volatile oil, 2.5 to 8 parts by weight of the macromolecular oil, and 2 to 6 parts by weight of the glidant powder, in terms of parts by weight in the water-in-oil composition; preferably, the weight ratio of the volatile oil to the water in the aqueous phase is (1-1.5): 1, more preferably (1-1.2): 1.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the water-in-oil composition further comprises: at least one of a preservative, a thickener, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a physical sunscreen, an oil soluble chemical sunscreen, and a water soluble chemical sunscreen.
A second aspect of the present disclosure provides a method of preparing a water-in-oil composition of any of the embodiments described above, comprising: providing a first oil phase comprising at least macromolecular lipids having a viscosity of 600cP to 2500 cP; mixing the first oil phase with volatile oil to obtain a second oil phase; mixing the second oil phase with at least the slip-aid powder particles to obtain an oil phase; adding an aqueous phase into the oil phase under stirring to obtain a mixture; and homogenizing the mixture to obtain the water-in-oil composition.
According to one embodiment of the disclosure, the providing the first oil phase includes heating components of the first oil phase to 80 ℃ to 90 ℃, uniformly mixing, and then cooling to 30 ℃ to 35 ℃ to obtain the first oil phase.
A third aspect of the present disclosure provides a cosmetic comprising the water-in-oil composition of any of the embodiments described above.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the cosmetic comprises 80 to 100% by weight of the above water-in-oil composition.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the cosmetic is a sunscreen cosmetic, an anti-pollution cosmetic, an anti-oxidation cosmetic, or a make-up cosmetic.
In the water-in-oil composition of the present invention, the oil phase comprises volatile oil, glidant particles and macromolecular oil with a viscosity of 600cP-2500 cP. The volatile grease not only has the characteristics of water resistance, oil resistance and sweat resistance, but also has the characteristics of small molecular weight and easy volatilization, and is beneficial to reducing the viscosity of the composition. In addition, the low molecular weight and low viscosity of the volatile oil helps the composition spread quickly on the skin surface. The slip-aid powder particles can have a slip-aid effect and help to improve spreadability of the composition. The macromolecular grease with the viscosity of 600-2500 cP can effectively fill the concave of the skin surface and form a film with uniform thickness on the skin surface. In addition, the macromolecular grease can also play a role of a film forming agent, and the addition amount of the film forming agent is reduced. This not only reduces the tackiness of the composition, but also reduces or even avoids the tight, heavy discomfort associated with conventional film-forming products, and reduces the mud-rubbing conditions and costs. The above components of the oil phase are combined together, so that the water-in-oil type composition can quickly form a film on the skin when in use, and the skin feel is fresh, waterproof and sweat-proof.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present disclosure will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present disclosure, and it is apparent that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present disclosure, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive effort, based on the embodiments in this disclosure are intended to be within the scope of this disclosure.
Throughout the specification, unless specifically indicated otherwise, the terms used herein should be understood as meaning as commonly used in the art. Accordingly, unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. In case of conflict, the present specification will control.
It should be noted that in this disclosure, the term "comprises" or any other variation thereof is intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a method or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such method or apparatus. Without further limitation, an element defined by the phrase "comprising … …" does not exclude the presence of additional, related elements in a method or apparatus comprising such element.
Currently, sunscreen cosmetics, anti-pollution cosmetics, anti-oxidation cosmetics, and some make-up cosmetics are required to be applied (e.g., applied or sprayed) on the skin, and can not exert the corresponding effects after they are formed into films. Various functional substances are generally added to the commercial cosmetics, which causes the cosmetic ingredients to be complex, and has defects of difficult dispersion, non-ideal uniformity of film formation (for example, uneven application), low film formation speed and the like. In particular, cosmetic systems are largely divided into oil-in-water systems and water-in-oil systems. The film formation rate of the oil-in-water system is slow. The film-forming cosmetic of the water-in-oil system is usually added with a high dosage of film forming agent to maintain the efficacy, and the film-forming cosmetic is easy to generate sticky skin feel when being applied to skin, has poor air permeability, is easy to be blocked, and has poor use experience.
To this end, the invention provides a water-in-oil composition wherein the oil phase comprises a volatile oil, a slip aid particle and a macromolecular oil having a viscosity of 600cP to 2500 cP. The water-in-oil composition is favorable for quick film formation, fresh and cool skin feel, water resistance and sweat resistance.
The volatile grease not only has the characteristics of water resistance, oil resistance and sweat resistance, but also has the characteristics of small molecular weight and easy volatilization, and is beneficial to reducing the viscosity of the composition. In addition, the low molecular weight and low viscosity of the volatile oil helps the composition spread quickly on the skin surface.
In some embodiments, the volatile oil is selected from at least one of linear or branched alkanes containing 11 to 13 carbon atoms and polydimethylsiloxanes having viscosities ranging from 1.0cst to 2.5 cst. In the present invention, the linear or branched alkane having 11 to 13 carbon atoms may also function as an emollient. In some preferred embodiments, the volatile oil comprises at least 1.0cst to 2.5cst of polydimethylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxanes having viscosities of 1.0cst to 2.5cst are more advantageous in reducing the surface tension of the external (i.e., oil) phase in water-in-oil compositions, allowing the interfacial tension to be reduced when the composition is spread on the skin, also helping the composition spread quickly into a film, and providing a pleasant skin feel. Preferably, the viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane is from 1.0cst to 1.5cst. The polydimethylsiloxane has moderate volatilization speed, is beneficial to the rapid spreading of the composition and is convenient for the preparation of the composition. By way of example, the viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane may be 1.0cst, 1.1cst, 1.2cst, 1.3cst, 1.4cst, 1.5cst, 1.8cst, 2.0cst, 2.2cst, 2.5cst, etc., or any value in between any two values. The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane is too low, the volatility is too high, and the loss amount in the preparation of the composition is also large, so that the difficulty in quality control is increased.
In some embodiments, the oil phase comprises 20 to 30 parts by weight of the volatile oil based on 100 parts by weight of the water-in-oil composition. Illustratively, the volatile oil is included in the oil phase in 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 parts by weight. The use of the volatile oil in the above range is more favorable for the two-phase dispersion of the water-in-oil composition and helps the product to feel fresh and non-greasy in the use process.
The slip-aid powder particles can have a slip-aid effect and help to improve spreadability of the composition. Illustratively, the slip powder is selected from at least one of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica. The particles of the sliding-assisting powder particles have smaller particle size, for example, 0.05-0.5 mu m, and mainly play a role in filling; when the particle size is large, for example, 1 μm to 20 μm, the effect of assisting the slip can be improved, and the skin feel is made more silky. In some embodiments, the average particle size of the slip powder particles is 5 μm to 12 μm, illustratively 5 μm, 6 μm, 7 μm, 8 μm, 9 μm, 10 μm, 11 μm, 12 μm, etc., or any value in between any two values. In some embodiments, the slip particles are spherical or hemispherical, which is more beneficial for slip.
In some embodiments, the oil phase comprises 2 to 6 parts by weight of the glidant powder based on 100 parts by weight of the water-in-oil composition. Illustratively, the slip aid powder particles are included in the oil phase in 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 parts by weight. The use of the sliding-aid powder particles in the above range is more favorable for reducing the mud rubbing condition while ensuring the rapid spreading of the water-in-oil composition.
Oils and fats having a molecular weight greater than 500Da are generally referred to as macromolecular oils and fats. The macromolecular grease with the viscosity of 600-2500 cP can effectively fill the depressions on the skin surface, and is beneficial to forming a film with uniform thickness on the skin surface. In some embodiments, the viscosity of the macromolecular lipid is 600cP to 900cP. Illustratively, the viscosity of the macromolecular lipid is 600cP, 700cP, 800cP, 900cP, 1000cP, 1200cP, 1400cP, 1600cP, 1800cP, 2000cP, 2300cP, 2500cP, etc., or any value in between any two values. In some embodiments, the macromolecular lipid is selected from at least one of polysiloxane-15, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene. In some preferred embodiments, the macromolecular lipid is polysiloxane-15. Polysiloxane-15, also called benzylidene malonate polysiloxane, has a molecular weight of about 6000Da, is a flowable viscous liquid with a viscosity of 600-1000cP, and has a molecular structure that a part of side groups on the main chain of polysiloxane comprise benzylidene malonate, and the benzylidene malonate is scattered and attached on the surface of skin due to the unique structure, so that the polysiloxane-15 can play a role of a film forming agent, and the addition amount of the film forming agent is reduced. The composition not only reduces the viscosity of the composition and provides a fresh and comfortable skin feel, but also reduces or even avoids the uncomfortable feeling of tightness and heavy tightness caused by common film forming products, reduces the mud rubbing condition and reduces the cost.
In some embodiments, the oil phase comprises from 2.5 parts by weight to 8 parts by weight of the macromolecular lipid based on 100 parts by weight of the water-in-oil composition. Illustratively, the macromolecular lipid is included in the oil phase in 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 parts by weight. The use of the macromolecular lipid within the above range is more advantageous for the two-phase dispersion of the water-in-oil composition and the stabilization of the content of each component.
In some preferred embodiments, the weight ratio of volatile oil to water in the aqueous phase is (1-1.5): 1, more preferably (1-1.2): 1. At this ratio, the volatile oil spreads more rapidly into a film, reducing the duration of greasy feel, while providing sufficient water to help maintain good moisturization of the product and avoid drying out.
In some embodiments, the aqueous phase of the water-in-oil composition includes a biosurfactant. In one aspect, the biosurfactant is mild in nature and reduces the irritation of the composition. On the other hand, biosurfactants can reduce the surface tension of the aqueous phase. For example, in some embodiments, the biosurfactant may reduce the surface tension of the aqueous phase to 25mN/m to 35mN/m. In some embodiments, the biosurfactant is selected from at least one of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, disodium glycyrrhizinate, sugar esters, and sodium bacitracin. In some preferred embodiments, the biosurfactant is dipotassium glycyrrhizinate or disodium glycyrrhizinate, which not only has a certain surfactant effect, but also has anti-inflammatory and soothing skin nourishing effects.
In some embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises from 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight of the biosurfactant based on 100 parts by weight of the water-in-oil composition. Illustratively, the biosurfactant is included in the aqueous phase in 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 parts by weight. The use of the biosurfactant within the above range is more advantageous for the two-phase dispersion of the water-in-oil composition and the stabilization of the content of each component, and is more advantageous for the rapid spreading of the water-in-oil composition.
In some embodiments, the water-in-oil composition includes 60 to 80 parts by weight of the oil phase and 20 to 40 parts by weight of the aqueous phase. The oil phase content is larger than the water phase content, so that a system with low internal phase and high external phase is formed, and the waterproof and sweat-proof properties of the composition are more facilitated.
In some embodiments, the water-in-oil composition further comprises: at least one of a preservative, a thickener, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a physical sunscreen, an oil soluble chemical sunscreen, and a water soluble chemical sunscreen. These components, depending on the particular type of solubility chosen, may be present in the oil phase and/or the aqueous phase.
The present invention is not limited in the type and amount of preservatives, thickeners, humectants, emollients, emulsifiers, physical sunscreens, oil-soluble chemical sunscreens, and water-soluble chemical sunscreens, so long as they do not adversely affect the spreading process and product use experience. Illustratively, the preservative is selected from 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and/or ethylhexyl glycerol. Illustratively, the thickener is selected from sodium chloride and/or disteardimonium hectorite. Illustratively, the wetting agent may be trifluoropropyl dimethicone and/or trifluoropropyl dimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate. The emollient may be at least one selected from jojoba oil, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, and other oils having skin caring effect. Illustratively, the emulsifier is a polyglycerol-based nonionic emulsifier. Illustratively, the physical sunscreens include zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, which are capable of absorbing a portion of the grease, reducing the greasy feel of the composition. Illustratively, the water-soluble chemical sunscreen may be disodium phenylbisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate. Illustratively, the oil-soluble chemical sunscreen may be selected from at least one of diethylhexylbutyrylamide triazone, diethylcarbamoylhexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
The present invention also provides a process for preparing a water-in-oil composition comprising the steps of: providing a first oil phase comprising at least macromolecular lipids having a viscosity of 600cP to 2500 cP; mixing the first oil phase with volatile oil to obtain a second oil phase; mixing the second oil phase with at least the slip-aid powder particles to obtain an oil phase; adding an aqueous phase into the oil phase under stirring to obtain a mixture; and homogenizing the mixture to obtain the water-in-oil composition.
In some embodiments, the first oil phase further comprises at least one of a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, and an oil soluble chemical sunscreen. Preferably, providing the first oil phase comprises heating the components of the first oil phase to 80-90 ℃, uniformly mixing, and then cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the first oil phase. In the steps, the temperature of the system is raised to 80-90 ℃, which is favorable for the full dissolution of each component. And the temperature reduction after uniform mixing is beneficial to reducing the volatilization of volatile oil and reducing the difficulty of quality control.
In some embodiments, the aqueous phase further comprises a biosurfactant; optionally, the aqueous phase further comprises at least one of a preservative, a thickener, and a water-soluble chemical sunscreen.
The present invention is not particularly limited to the homogenization method, and a conventional homogenization method, such as, for example, high-speed stirring shear homogenization, micro-jet high-pressure homogenization, and the like, may be employed.
The invention also provides a cosmetic, which comprises the water-in-oil type composition.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic comprises 80% to 100% by weight of the water-in-oil composition described above. The other ingredients in the cosmetic are not particularly limited as long as they do not adversely affect the stability of the water-in-oil composition.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic is a sunscreen cosmetic, an anti-soiling cosmetic, an anti-oxidation cosmetic, or a make-up cosmetic.
The cosmetic can be rapidly spread on the surface of skin by comprising the water-in-oil type composition, and has fresh skin feel, water resistance, oil resistance and sweat resistance. As demonstrated in the following preferred examples, with the cosmetic, the film forming time can be controlled within 5 seconds, the film surface structure is complete, the thickness and micropore distribution are relatively uniform, and the transfer resistance, air permeability, water resistance and durability are all good.
The present disclosure is further illustrated by the following specific examples. The starting materials involved are all commercially available, the average particle size of the vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer being 12. Mu.m.
Examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3
Raw materials were weighed according to the formulation shown in table 1, and water-in-oil compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were prepared as follows. Mixing wetting agent, emollient, macromolecular oil with viscosity of 600-2500 cP, and emulsifier, heating to 85deg.C, and stirring to dissolve completely to obtain first oil phase. The temperature of the first oil phase was reduced to 35 ℃. And adding volatile grease into the first oil phase, and uniformly stirring to obtain a second oil phase. Adding the sliding powder particles and the physical sun-screening agent (if any) into the second oil phase, and uniformly stirring to obtain an oil phase. Mixing antiseptic, thickener, deionized water and biosurfactant, heating to 80deg.C, stirring, and dissolving completely to obtain water phase. The temperature of the aqueous phase was reduced to 35 ℃, the oil phase was stirred at 700rpm while the aqueous phase was slowly pumped into the oil phase via the pipe until the aqueous phase was completely transferred into the oil phase, resulting in a mixture. Homogenizing the mixture at 3000rpmm for 3min to obtain water-in-oil composition.
Table 1 formulations of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-3
In example 2, the weight ratio of volatile oil to water was also 1:1, and the same polydimethylsiloxane (1.0 cst) was used, but isododecane was used in combination with the volatile oil, as compared with example 1. Examples 3 and 4 used more viscous polydimethylsiloxanes, 1.5cst and 2.5cst, with a weight ratio of volatile oil to water of 1.14:1. In example 5, a less viscous, too volatile polydimethylsiloxane (0.65 cst) was used as the volatile oil, the weight ratio of volatile oil to water being 1.24:1.
In comparative example 1, a nonvolatile grease of excessive viscosity, polydimethylsiloxane (10 cst), was used in a weight ratio of 1.24:1. In comparative example 2, no glidant powder was added. In comparative example 3, no macromolecular lipid was added.
Performance testing
The prepared compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 above were used as cosmetic samples (hereinafter referred to as samples) and were tested for practical use properties as follows. The actual use performance comprises the following items: film formation time and state, transfer resistance, air permeability, water resistance, and durability.
The actual performance test of each sample was performed by 30 panelists. The film forming time and state, transfer resistance, air permeability, water resistance and durability of each sample were evaluated at the time of coating or immediately after coating. In the test, 0.5g of the sample is respectively dripped into the back of a hand, the abdomen of the middle finger of the other hand is lightly circled, 5-8 circles are smeared until the sample is uniformly spread, whether the sample can form a film or not and the film forming state are recorded for 5 seconds, and the transfer resistance, the air permeability, the water resistance and the durability of the film are evaluated.
For each evaluation item, 5-stage sensory evaluation was performed based on the following score criteria, i.e., a score was given. Wherein, 5 points represent "very excellent"; a score of 4 indicates "excellent"; the score 3 indicates "normal"; a score of 2 indicates "difference" and a score of 1 indicates "very poor".
The average value of each score was calculated, and the determination result was given as the following evaluation criterion. Wherein the score (average value) corresponds to S of 4.5 or more, a score of 4.0 or more and less than 4.5 corresponds to a, a score of 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 corresponds to B, a score of 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 corresponds to C, and a score of less than 2.0 corresponds to D.
The test results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 practical performance results for examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-3
Examples 1-5 all had faster film formation times (all allowed 5s film formation), and good water repellency, transfer resistance, breathability and permanence, with a fresh feel. Compared with example 1, the volatile oil of example 2 uses polydimethylsiloxane (1.0 cst) and isododecane in combination, and has optimal ventilation effect. Examples 3 and 4 used more viscous polydimethylsiloxanes, 1.5cst and 2.5cst, had somewhat reduced volatilization rates, slightly slower spread film formation, and slightly poorer breathability and durability. In example 5, polydimethylsiloxane (0.65 cst) having too low a viscosity was used, and the volatility was too high, but the film formation rate was very high, but the film formation surface was not easily uniform, and the durability was weak. In comparative example 1, the polydimethylsiloxane had a viscosity increased to 10cst and was nonvolatile, but had poor spreadability and film formation time and air permeability significantly degraded, although the water resistance was good. In comparative example 2, no slip aid particles were added, the slip aid effect was lost, resulting in deterioration of spreadability of the composition, and thus film forming property was also deteriorated, resulting in increase of film forming time, uneven film forming, and significant deterioration of water resistance, transfer resistance and durability. In comparative example 3, no macromolecular lipid was added, the film forming speed was high, the skin feel was lighter, but the water resistance, transfer resistance and durability were poor.
The foregoing description of specific embodiments of the present disclosure is intended to be illustrative of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the scope of the claimed invention, as modifications, alternatives, or direct/indirect applications of the present invention in its spirit and scope are intended to be included within the scope of the claimed invention.

Claims (14)

1. A water-in-oil composition wherein the oil phase comprises volatile oil, glidant particles and macromolecular oil having a viscosity of 600cP-2500 cP.
2. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile oil is at least one selected from the group consisting of linear or branched paraffins having 11 to 13 carbon atoms and polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity of 1.0cst to 2.5 cst;
preferably, the volatile oil comprises polydimethylsiloxane with the viscosity of 1.0 cst-2.5 cst;
preferably, the volatile oil comprises polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 1.0cst to 1.5cst.
3. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 1, wherein the slip aid particles are selected from at least one of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane cross-linked polymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica;
preferably, the average particle size of the slip-aid particles is 5-12 μm;
preferably, the shape of the sliding-aid powder particles is spherical or hemispherical.
4. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 1, wherein the macromolecular lipid has a viscosity of 600cP to 900cP;
preferably, the macromolecular grease is at least one selected from polysiloxane-15, polydimethylsiloxane and hydrogenated polyisobutene;
more preferably, the macromolecular lipid is polysiloxane-15.
5. The water-in-oil composition of claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises a biosurfactant; preferably, the aqueous phase comprises 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight of biosurfactant in the water-in-oil composition, based on parts by weight.
6. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 5, wherein the biosurfactant is at least one selected from dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, disodium glycyrrhizinate, sugar esters and sodium bacitracin.
7. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 1, comprising 60 to 80 parts by weight of the oil phase and 20 to 40 parts by weight of the aqueous phase.
8. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 7, wherein the oil phase comprises 20 to 30 parts by weight of the volatile oil, 2.5 to 8 parts by weight of the macromolecular oil, and 2 to 6 parts by weight of the glidant powder, in parts by weight in the water-in-oil composition;
preferably, the weight ratio of the volatile oil to the water in the aqueous phase is (1-1.5): 1, more preferably (1-1.2): 1.
9. The water-in-oil composition according to claim 1, further comprising: at least one of a preservative, a thickener, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a physical sunscreen, an oil soluble chemical sunscreen, and a water soluble chemical sunscreen.
10. A process for preparing a water-in-oil composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising:
providing a first oil phase comprising at least macromolecular lipids having a viscosity of 600cP to 2500 cP;
mixing the first oil phase with volatile oil to obtain a second oil phase;
mixing the second oil phase with at least the slip-aid powder particles to obtain an oil phase;
adding an aqueous phase into the oil phase under stirring to obtain a mixture; and
homogenizing said mixture to obtain said water-in-oil composition.
11. The method of claim 10, wherein the providing a first oil phase comprises heating components of the first oil phase to 80-90 ℃, mixing well, and cooling to 30-35 ℃ to obtain the first oil phase.
12. A cosmetic comprising the water-in-oil composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
13. The cosmetic according to claim 12, comprising 80 to 100% by weight of the water-in-oil composition.
14. The cosmetic according to claim 13, wherein the cosmetic is a sunscreen cosmetic, an anti-pollution cosmetic, an anti-oxidation cosmetic or a make-up cosmetic.
CN202311608280.XA 2023-11-28 2023-11-28 Water-in-oil composition and cosmetic containing the same Pending CN117462455A (en)

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