Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the invention provides a unidirectional moisture-conducting cool fabric and a preparation method thereof, and the technical method not only can realize energy conservation and emission reduction in the production process of the fabric, but also can realize stable cool feeling and unidirectional moisture-conducting functions of the prepared fabric.
The invention mainly provides a preparation method of a unidirectional moisture-conducting cool fabric, which comprises the following steps:
s1, weaving cool polyester and hydrophilic polyester on a round weft knitting machine according to double-sided tissues to obtain a double-layer structure fabric; wherein the surface layer is mainly made of hydrophilic polyester yarns, the moisture regain is 1.4-1.7%, the bottom layer is mainly made of cool polyester yarns, and the moisture regain is 0.35-0.45%; the cool sense polyester is yarn spun by adding cool sense material in the polyester spinning process;
s2, bleaching or dyeing after-finishing the double-layer structure fabric to obtain a one-way moisture-guiding cool fabric; the Qmax value of the cool sense fabric is more than 0.15J/cm 2 ·s。
In the embodiment of the invention, the surface layer of the double-layer structure fabric is of a weft knitting jacquard structure, and the bottom layer is of a plain weave structure.
In the embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio of the cool polyester to the hydrophilic polyester is 45-50: 50 to 55.
In embodiments of the present invention, the bleaching or post-dyeing finishing does not require the addition of a hygroscopic perspiration aid.
In an embodiment of the invention, the post-dyeing finishing comprises: and (3) carrying out pre-shaping, dyeing, reduction cleaning and drying shaping on the double-layer structure fabric to obtain a fabric finished product.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the temperature of the pre-shaping is 170 to 190 ℃; the dyeing is carried out by using 0.1-5% owf disperse dye.
In the embodiment of the invention, the drying and shaping is a drying mode, the drying temperature is 150-180 ℃, and the drying speed is 10-20 m/min.
On the other hand, the invention provides the unidirectional moisture-conducting cool fabric obtained by the preparation method.
Compared with the prior art, the invention mainly adopts the weft knitting fabric with a double-layer structure, the surface layer yarns adopt hydrophilic terylene, the moisture regain is about 1.5 percent, the bottom layer yarns adopt cool terylene base yarns added with cool factors, and the moisture regain is about 0.4 percent; the cool fabric with one-way moisture guiding is obtained through dyeing and finishing process. According to the invention, through ingenious combination of the cool polyester yarn and the hydrophilic raw yarn, the use of hydrophilic finishing auxiliary agents and hydrophobic finishing auxiliary agents is reduced, and compared with a printing process, the production process is saved, and the purposes of energy conservation and emission reduction are realized to a certain extent. The polyester fabric produced by the method has long-term effective cold feeling and unidirectional moisture transfer performance, does not weaken the effect after being adhered to the fiber surface for a plurality of times of washing like a finishing agent, and realizes the performances of unidirectional moisture transfer and cold feeling for a long time. The invention increases the functional durability of the garment, reduces the resource waste caused by the fact that consumers purchase the performance products again after the performance is lost to a certain extent, and reduces the carbon emission. According to the fabric test of the invention, the cool feeling and the unidirectional moisture permeability of the prepared fabric can meet the national standard requirements.
Detailed Description
In order that those skilled in the art will better understand the technical solution of the present invention, the following detailed description of the present invention with reference to specific embodiments thereof is provided by way of example and explanation only, and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention in any way.
The invention provides a preparation method of a unidirectional moisture-conducting cool fabric, which comprises the following steps:
s1, weaving cool polyester and hydrophilic polyester on a round weft knitting machine according to double-sided tissues to obtain a double-layer structure fabric; wherein the surface layer is mainly made of hydrophilic polyester yarns, the moisture regain is 1.4-1.7%, the bottom layer is mainly made of cool polyester yarns, and the moisture regain is 0.35-0.45%; the cool sense polyester is yarn spun by adding cool sense material in the polyester spinning process;
s2, bleaching or dyeing after-finishing the double-layer structure fabric to obtain a one-way moisture-guiding cool fabric; the Qmax value of the cool sense fabric is more than 0.15J/cm 2 ·s。
The process method can not only realize energy conservation and emission reduction in the production process of the fabric, but also realize the functions of cool feeling, touch feeling, unidirectional moisture conduction and the like of the prepared fabric.
The embodiment of the invention mainly selects cool polyester yarns and hydrophilic polyester yarns, and the cool polyester yarns and the hydrophilic polyester yarns are knitted on a circular weft knitting machine according to a certain proportion to form a double-layer fabric structure comprising a surface layer and a bottom layer.
The surface layer is a non-skin-adhering surface (also called a surface layer) of the fabric and is mainly formed by hydrophilic polyester yarns; the moisture regain of the polyester is 1.4-1.7%, can reach about 1.5%, can realize good hydrophilic performance without finishing by hydrophilic auxiliary agents, and cannot be weakened along with the increase of washing times. The bottom layer is opposite to the surface layer and is close to one surface of the skin; the bottom layer yarn is mainly cool polyester base yarn added with cool sense factors, the yarn is added with cool sense master batch at the spinning stage, no cool sense finishing treatment is needed, the cool sense effect is long-term effective, the bottom layer contacting the skin surface has lasting cool sense performance, the moisture regain of the polyester is about 0.4 percent (0.35-0.45 percent), the moisture regain of the yarn is low, the hydrophobic and water-repellent effects are achieved, the water-repellent effects of the bottom layer yarn are not needed to be achieved through other modes such as adding finishing agents and printing, resources are saved to a certain extent, and the production cost is reduced.
The cool polyester and the hydrophilic polyester in the embodiment of the invention are obtained by adopting commercial yarns, and the mass ratio of the cool polyester to the hydrophilic polyester is preferably 45-50: 50 to 55. For example, the yarn specification of the cool polyester can be F75D/36F, except that the cool function and other parameters are not different from those of the common polyester; the hydrophilic polyester has 75D/36F full extinction, low-temperature dyeing and environmental protection.
The invention mainly realizes the purpose of unidirectional moisture guiding by adopting energy-saving and emission-reducing yarn selection and double-layer fabric structure application. The embodiment of the invention adopts a conventional round weft knitting machine to weave the cool polyester and the hydrophilic polyester according to double-sided tissues, and the special double-layer structure fabric is obtained after the weaving.
The double-layer structure fabric woven by the embodiment of the invention is basically pure terylene, the surface layer is a weft knitting jacquard structure, generally similar to a jacquard structure such as meshes or grids, and the bottom layer is a plain weave structure.
In the embodiment of the invention, the double-layer structure fabric has loose intervals among yarns of a bottom structure relatively, and the intervals among the yarns after weaving cannot be very tight, so that the follow-up processing is facilitated; the index having a relatively large correlation is referred to as the cross density (WPC) and the longitudinal density (CPC), and is related to the number of stitches, the stitch length, the yarn thickness, and the like. The transverse density is the number of stitches in the transverse direction of the knitted fabric within a predetermined length, the longitudinal density is the number of stitches in the longitudinal direction of the knitted fabric within a predetermined length, and the weft knitted fabric is generally 5cm in the predetermined length. The present invention preferably has a transverse density of 66 and a longitudinal density of 104; if the structure of the bottom layer is too tight, moisture does not easily pass through the yarn layer on the bottom surface, and perspiration effect is reduced. If terylene and spandex blended materials are adopted, the combination can increase the gram weight of the product to a certain extent, and the quick-drying index and the like of the materials can be influenced.
The embodiment of the invention carries out dyeing and finishing treatment on the fabric obtained by the steps, wherein the dyeing and finishing treatment can comprise bleaching and also can comprise post-finishing procedures such as dyeing, shaping and the like.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the post-dyeing finishing includes: and (3) carrying out pre-shaping, dyeing, reduction cleaning, drying and shaping on the double-layer structure fabric to obtain a fabric finished product.
Wherein, the preshaping is carried out by a setting machine, so as to prepare for subsequent dyeing. The preferred pre-shaping process may be: clear water passing through the padder, setting machine temperature of 180-190 ℃, vehicle speed of 18-30 m/min, overfeeding of 15%, and liquid carrying rate of 75-100%. As the terylene in the fabric is hydrophilic terylene, the hand feeling becomes hard after high temperature, so the setting temperature cannot be higher than 190 ℃. In addition, the embodiment of the invention can also carry out technological processes such as refining and the like before the pre-shaping.
According to the specific embodiment of the invention, the pre-shaped fabric can be immersed in a dyeing bath at 40 ℃, and the dyeing bath ratio is preferably 1:10 to 1:20 (generally, the mass kg is equal to the volume L of the dyeing bath), the temperature is kept for 10 to 15 minutes, the temperature is then increased to 50 to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 to 3.5 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 5 to 15 minutes, and finally the temperature is increased to 100 to 120 ℃ at the speed of 1 to 2 ℃/min, and the temperature is kept for 10 to 60 minutes.
The dyeing bath formula preferably adopts 0.1-5% owf disperse dye; dispersing agent and acetic acid are also added, and the pH value of the dye liquor is controlled to be 5-7. The dispersing agent is preferably aromatic carboxylic monoester with the concentration of 0.5-2 g/L; the dosage of acetic acid can be 0.5-2 g/L. Since the solubility of disperse dyes (such as azo type and anthraquinone type structures) in water is extremely low, dye liquor is formed by adding the dye and a dispersing agent in the solution; in order to prevent the disperse dye and polyester from hydrolysis under the action of high temperature and alkali, the dyeing of the disperse dye is usually carried out under the weak acid condition.
The embodiment of the invention can adopt an overflow dyeing machine to carry out high-temperature high-pressure overflow dyeing, and the pressure can be 2-4kg/cm 2 After dyeing, water washing and other treatments are carried out; the reduction cleaning is carried out to replace soaping when the dyeing is dark, so that the color of the dyed finished product can be kept bright. In some embodiments of the invention, the dyed dye liquor is discharged, and the reduction cleaning is continued, wherein the reduction cleaning bath ratio is 1: 10-20, heating to 80 ℃, preserving heat for 10-30 min, and draining. Preferably, the reduction cleaning liquid includes: 0.3 to 0.5g/L of sodium carbonate and 1 to 3g/L of reducing agent, wherein the reducing agent is sodium hydrosulfite or thiourea dioxide.
Other embodiments of the present invention may employ conventional post-bleaching treatments; the invention does not need to add moisture absorption and perspiration auxiliary agent in the finishing process after dyeing and bleaching, and belongs to a more environment-friendly one-way moisture guiding technology.
After dyeing, the obtained dyed fabric is dried and shaped, wherein the drying temperature is preferably 150-180 ℃, and more preferably 155-170 ℃; the drying speed can be 10-20 m/min. After the drying and shaping are finished, a finished product of the cool unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric (namely, the cool unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric with the gram weight of 150g/m can be obtained 2 )。
The embodiment of the invention providesThe unidirectional moisture-conducting cool fabric obtained by the preparation method is provided, and the Qmax value of the cool fabric is more than 0.15J/cm 2 S, the product has the functions of contact cooling feeling and unidirectional moisture guiding, is easy to dye and fix, and has stable quality.
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the following examples and drawings, the examples described herein only assist in understanding the present invention, and the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto. Wherein, the raw materials are all commercially available. Cool polyester is purchased from Xiaoxing corporation, 75D/36F cool (Askin) with lot number 1135 and grade AA; the hydrophilic terylene manufacturer is Qingdao iteration company, the specification is 75D/72F (three-dimensional guide wire) full extinction, batch number is 06H9858DWK, grade AA. The loom is a universal nylon double-sided loom.
Example 1
1. Cool polyester and hydrophilic polyester are mixed according to 49.4 weight percent: knitting on a circular weft knitting machine according to the proportion of 50.6wt%, wherein the surface layer polyester is mainly hydrophilic polyester, the moisture regain is 1.5%, the bottom layer is mainly cool polyester, the moisture regain is 0.4%, and the special double-layer structure fabric is obtained after knitting.
The fabric weave pattern is shown in fig. 1 (triangles represent looping, straight belt wrap floats, U-shapes represent tucks), the top layer is weft jacquard, and the bottom layer is a plain weave structure. Knitting gauge 34", gauge 28G, total gauge 2976, transverse density 66, longitudinal density 104, grammage 116G/m 2 The coil length is 22-24mm (finished product width 170 cm, gram weight 150 g/m) 2 )。
2. Dyeing and finishing the double-layer structure full-polyester fabric obtained in the step 1, wherein the dyeing and finishing process flow comprises the following steps: scouring (90 ℃/30 min), dehydrating, slitting, presetting (170 ℃/50 s), dyeing, reducing, cleaning, drying and shaping (160 ℃/40 s); the method comprises the following steps:
and (3) a pre-shaping process: clear water passing through the padder, setting machine temperature 170 ℃, vehicle speed 30m/min, overfeeding 15%, and liquid carrying rate controlled at 75% -100%.
The dyeing process comprises the following steps: referring to fig. 2, the pre-shaped fabric was immersed in a dyeing bath at 40 ℃ with the addition of a degreasing agent, a leveling agent and a softening agent, the dyeing bath ratio being 1:10, keeping the temperature for 10-15 min, heating to 70-80 ℃ at the speed of 3 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 5-10 min, heating to 110-120 ℃ at the speed of 1-3 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 40-60 min, and cooling. Wherein, the degreasing agent TF-129K and the leveling agent TF212E are all purchased from Zhejiang chemical industry Co., ltd; softening agent DM3746-B is purchased from Jinjiang Xinde beautifier Co., ltd.
The formula of the dye bath is as follows:
disperse dye: 5% owf;
dispersing agent: 2g/L, wherein the type of the dispersant is aromatic carboxylic monoester;
acetic acid: 0.5-2 g/L, and the pH value of the dye liquor is controlled to be 5-7;
and (3) reduction cleaning: discharging the dyed dye liquor, and continuing to carry out reduction cleaning, wherein the reduction cleaning bath ratio is 1: 10-20, heating to 80 ℃, preserving heat for 10-30 min, and draining. The reduction cleaning solution includes: 0.3 to 0.5g/L of sodium carbonate and 1 to 3g/L of reducing agent, wherein the reducing agent is sodium hydrosulfite or thiourea dioxide.
Drying and shaping: the drying temperature is 160 ℃, and the drying speed is 10-20 m/min. And after the drying and shaping are finished, obtaining the cool and unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric.
In addition, the invention also adopts the double-layer structure full-polyester fabric with other fabric textures, and the texture chart is shown in fig. 3; other processes are the same as those of the embodiment 1, and the requirements of unidirectional moisture conduction and the like can be met.
The following national standard detection method is adopted for the fabric developed in the example 1, the effects of the fabric before washing and after washing for 20 times are tested, the test results are all qualified, and the specific results are as follows:
table 1 results of fabric sample performance test of example 1
As can be seen from Table 1, the fabrics prepared by the embodiment of the invention have cool feeling and one-way moisture-guiding performance reaching the national standard requirements before and after washing. The cool feeling of the common polyester double-layer fabric is generally realized by adding auxiliary agents and other schemes, and the cool feeling is easy to disappear after washing; the performance of one-way moisture guiding is generally matched by water repellent embossing or by the thickness of yarns, after finishing is added with an auxiliary agent to perform hydrophilic finishing, but the two layers are all hydrophilic, the humidity of the inner layer is relatively high, and the effect of one-way moisture guiding is not obvious; and the unidirectional moisture-conducting effect becomes weak or even disappears after multiple times of water washing.
As can be seen from the above embodiments, the present invention mainly uses a weft knitting fabric with a double-layer structure, the surface layer yarn adopts hydrophilic terylene, and the bottom layer yarn adopts cool terylene base yarn added with cool factors; the cool fabric with one-way moisture guiding is obtained through dyeing and finishing process. According to the invention, the unidirectional moisture guiding performance is realized by matching the structures of the cool polyester yarn with the hydrophilic raw yarn and the like, the use of hydrophilic finishing auxiliary agents and hydrophobic finishing auxiliary agents is reduced, and the purposes of energy conservation and emission reduction are realized to a certain extent. The polyester fabric produced by the method has long-term effective cool feeling and unidirectional moisture transfer performance, and the unidirectional moisture transfer effect is not affected by long-term water washing. The invention increases the functional durability of the garment, reduces the resource waste caused by the fact that consumers purchase the performance products again after the performance is lost to a certain extent, and reduces the carbon emission.
Finally, it should be noted that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the spirit of the invention and are not limiting of the invention. Other modifications and additions to the described embodiments and similar alternatives to the described embodiments will be apparent to those skilled in the art, and it is not necessary nor necessary to fully implement the invention. While these obvious variations and modifications, which come within the spirit of the invention, are within the scope of the invention, they are to be construed as being without departing from the spirit of the invention.