CN116999340A - 作为spf增效剂的脂氨基酸烷基酯 - Google Patents
作为spf增效剂的脂氨基酸烷基酯 Download PDFInfo
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- CN116999340A CN116999340A CN202210474908.0A CN202210474908A CN116999340A CN 116999340 A CN116999340 A CN 116999340A CN 202210474908 A CN202210474908 A CN 202210474908A CN 116999340 A CN116999340 A CN 116999340A
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- amino acid
- spf
- alkyl esters
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
描述了包含防晒剂的化妆品组合物中脂氨基酸烷基酯作为SPF(防晒系数)增效剂的用途。当添加到含有防晒剂的化妆品组合物时,所述烷基酯将其SPF值增加到甚至50%或更高的程度:由此可以显著减少所使用的防晒剂的量,同时保持高SPF。在具有不同防晒剂的不同类型的化妆品组合物中观察到SPF增效剂效果,从而支持本文的烷基酯广泛用于本文所述的用途的化妆品组合物中。所述烷基酯具有强自然含义,尊重环境和有机组织,并且继而能够通过生态友好的合成方法而获得,所述合成方法不涉及使用会痕量保留在最终化妆品中的侵蚀性试剂:由此获得具有高使用安全性并且可能被消费者更好地接受的光防护化妆品组合物。
Description
发明领域
本发明涉及具有光防护效果的化妆品领域,具体涉及对增加光防护有活性的分子(SPF增效剂)的领域。
现有技术
在人的表面(皮肤、角蛋白等)上施用化妆品,化妆品因此通常暴露于太阳辐射。因为太阳辐射,特别是紫外线辐射涉及有机组织的降解/老化过程,化妆品可以包括防晒剂,即能够吸收和/或反射所述辐射的分子;这些物质通过与正在使用的产品的特定美容效果配合来防止有机组织老化。然后,在具体旨在用于光防护的诸如防晒霜的化妆品的情况下,使用防晒剂是规则。
由防晒剂和含有他们的组合物获得的保护度通常由参数SPF(防晒系数)表达:其能够被定义为在受保护的皮肤上产生最小红斑(最小红斑剂量,MED)所需的UV能量与未受保护的皮肤上相应MED之比。
在EN ISO 24444:2020中报道了用于在体内测定SPF的欧洲官方方法。
除了防晒剂,作为光防护增效剂(SPF增效剂)的分子活性物质也是已知的:这些物质本身作为光防护剂通常没有活性,但是在防晒剂的存在下能够提高其光防护活性。现今,因为防晒剂越来越成为关于其对人类健康的安全性以及其环境影响的讨论话题,使用增效剂获得了特别的兴趣。例如,如从2020年1月1日起,帕劳共和国对出售和使用日光产品的禁令禁止使用被认为对海洋生态系统(珊瑚)危险的物质,例如,二苯甲酮-3、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、4-甲基亚苄基樟脑。在2021年,夏威夷的未来禁令将禁止二苯甲酮-3和甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯。因此,搜索具有增效效果的物质是实现化妆品的新前景:所述搜索具体针对能够对物理和化学防晒剂施加协同作用的原材料,从而允许降低他们在配方中的浓度。
SPF增效剂能够与不同机制一起起作用。他们中的大多数增加UV吸收和皮肤上保护膜的厚度;其他增强防晒剂的散射性质,而其他增强UV-A吸收和λcr或提高光稳定性。
天然的或合成来源的SPF增效剂是已知的。在天然来源的SPF增效剂当中,可以提及以下:白池花(Limnanthantes alba),从其获得富含glucolimnantin的产品;天竺葵和金盏花的精油;芦丁(西番莲(Passiflora incarnate L.))和长叶车前(Plantagolanceolata)提取物的组合;甘草根(胀果甘草(Glycyrrhiza inflata));从地衣获得的三苔色酸;藻类,如脐形紫菜(Porphyra umbilicalis)(红藻)、雨生红球藻;盐生杜氏藻等。
合成SPF增效剂是已知的,具体从专利文献得知。在US2008/0219938A1中,报道了含有来自芦荟的低聚糖的“冷压”组合物以及它们的益处。两篇标题为“包含甲基纤维素作为SPF和/或PPD增效剂的防晒组合物和方法”的专利中,一篇(EP2512434B1)报道了含有微粒有机防晒剂的组合物;另一篇(US2011/0256076A1;AU2009307763B2)报道了包含金属氧化物和甲基纤维素的组合物。WO2012/161084A1描述了由细小多孔聚酰胺颗粒的散射引起的增效剂效果,所述细小多孔聚酰胺颗粒具有球粒结构,其具有平均数量的直径为1至30μm且分布为1至2.5的颗粒。标题为“改进的防晒组合物”的WO2015/014818A2描述了O/W乳液,其含有乳化剂和成膜聚合物,例如丙烯酸酯、巴豆酸酯、增加耐水性的聚氨酯和角叉菜胶(ι或λ)。标题为“作为SPF增效剂的特定丙烯酸酯共聚物的用途”的WO2016/071336A1描述了组合物,其基于分子量高达140000的聚丙烯酸酯-丙烯酸酯共聚物包含选定的有机防晒剂(奥克立林、阿伏苯宗、氧苯宗、水杨酸辛酯、胡莫柳酯)和增效剂,还包含矿物UV防晒剂、颜料和纳米颜料(例如二氧化钛、氧化锌等)。WO2019/022913A1“用于醇基防晒制剂中的SPF增效剂”中报道了具体的增效剂,其涉及“多级”聚合物颗粒,包括:1)核,2)内壳,3)外壳,能够用于喷雾产品中。在JP5837868B2中,发现包含聚合物“UV辐射散射体”的组合物,例如:丙烯酸共聚物/苯乙烯球。一些最近的专利申请旨在获得高SPF并且同时获得提亮效果(WO2020/024022A1“用于增白皮肤的防晒组合物、防晒组合物的用途和生产防晒组合物的过程”)或时间稳定性和良好的涂抹特性(质地)(WO2020/024023A1);最后,(WO2020/041391A1“用于保护和改善皮肤外观的方法”)描述了用于增加SPF和UVA-PF并且同时改善皮肤外观的方法;该方法包括在皮肤上分层“完整组合物”和日光组合物,它们的顺序没有不同;完整组合物(其包括成膜聚合物和粘合剂和“软焦点”粉末)增加了日光组合物的SPF和UV-PF;如果替代地,将两种组合物预混合并将混合物施用在皮肤上,则不能获得相同的SPF增效剂效果。韩国专利KR10-1995997报道了azelina(香睡莲(Nymohaea odorata)的成分)的增效剂效果以及含有有机和无机防晒剂和0.01%至5%重量比azelina的组合物;低于0.01%的浓度不足以具有增效剂效果,高于5%的浓度不确保配方的稳定性。
不管对太阳辐射有用的保护效果,SPF增效剂并非没有限制。特别地,天然增效剂存在关于稳定性、效果的再现性/程度、获益/纯化的成本的问题。合成增效剂涉及某些风险,这些风险涉及他们不是天然的事实以及用于合成它们的痕量毒性试剂的可能保留。因此,对能够用作SPF增效剂的新物质存在强烈需要,其组合不同的有利特性,具体是:可获得性和/或合成的容易度;非常自然的特征;高功效,例如允许大量减少所需量的防晒剂;尽可能最独立于配方的功效,以允许容易地用于不同的化妆品组合物中,而不需要根据组合物的类型进行困难的适应性研究。还需要具有光防护效果的化妆品组合物,其使用非常自然和安全,特别是关于其中包含的光防护物质和/或增效剂。
概述
为了解决上述需要,本发明涉及使用脂氨基酸烷基酯作为防晒系数(SPF)增效剂。事实上,实验观察到,当添加到包含防晒剂的任何化妆品组合物中时,所述化合物导致SPF值的意想不到且相当大的增加,甚至高于50%。因此,可以大幅减少期望SPF所需的防晒剂量,从而限制环境影响以及与消费者长时间暴露于大量这样的物质相关的可能风险。本发明的化合物,基于氨基酸和脂质结构,具有强烈的天然含义,尊重有机组织。在优选的变体中,本发明的相同SPF增效剂能够通过“绿色”合成方法获得,该方法非常尊重环境并且不使用可以痕量保留在最终化妆品中的侵蚀性试剂:这进一步有助于增效剂和含有其的组合物的天然特性和安全性。作为另外的优点,在广泛层面上观察本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯的增效剂效果,即对于许多彼此不同的化妆品组合物,关于所用的防晒剂的类型、它们的量、赋形剂、化学物理形式和化妆品的种类,例如乳液、分散剂、药膏、油等。这支持在需要具有显著的光防护水平的任何化妆品组合物中广泛使用本发明的增效剂。本发明还包括相对的化妆品组合物,其包含与防晒剂相关的预设的增效剂。
附图说明
图1:在本发明中使用的增效剂1的1H-NMR谱。
图2:在本发明中使用的增效剂2的1H-NMR谱。
发明详述
根据本发明,术语“SPF增效剂”、“光防护增效剂”或仅仅“增效剂”系指在单独使用时作为光防护剂为非活性或几乎非活性的物质,但是在存在例如以包含防晒剂的化妆品成分配制的防晒剂的情况下,实现了光防护的显著增加,其表示为SPF。光防护的所述增加,特别是日光防护的增加,是本发明的必要部分,并且包括在本文使用的术语“SPF增效剂”中。
本文所用的表达“脂氨基酸烷基酯增加防晒系数(SPF)的用途”与“脂氨基酸烷基酯作为SPF增效剂的用途”等同/可互换。
本发明的用作SPF增效剂的物质是脂氨基酸烷基酯。“脂氨基酸”在本文中被定义为在氨基酸和脂肪酸之间,并且具体地在氨基酸的氨基和脂肪酸的酰基之间形成的酰胺;在包含多于一个氨基(例如赖氨酸、组氨酸)的氨基酸的情况下,术语“脂氨基酸”也适用于涉及如上所述的相应的单或聚酰胺的所述氨基酸。
本发明的脂氨基酸的氨基酸部分不受特定限制,并且可以广泛地在天然氨基酸中进行选择:丙氨酸、半胱氨酸、天冬氨酸、谷氨酸、苯丙氨酸、甘氨酸、组氨酸、亮氨酸、异亮氨酸、赖氨酸、甲硫氨酸、天冬酰胺、吡咯赖氨酸、脯氨酸、谷氨酰胺、精氨酸、丝氨酸、苏氨酸、硒代半胱氨酸、缬氨酸、色氨酸、酪氨酸,后者均为L-、D-或外消旋形式;本发明的优选氨基酸是非环状氨基酸;其中,甘氨酸是特别优选的。也可以使用上述氨基酸或合成氨基酸(α、β等)的衍生物。
本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯的烷基酯部分通常由直链或支链烷基酯C1-24,优选乙基或甲基组成,其中所述烷基酯在脂氨基酸的羧基上形成。如果氨基酸部分含有多于一个羧基,则所述一个或多个羧基可参与形成相应的单烷基酯或多烷基酯。
本发明的脂氨基酸的脂类部分不受特别限制并且由任何脂肪酸的酰基表示,即直链或支链、饱和或不饱和的长链脂肪族单羧酸;脂肪酸通常是C4-24、优选C8-24、更优选C16-18脂肪酸,例如油酸、亚油酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸。也可以使用两种或更多种脂肪酸,例如植物油或植物脂中存在的脂肪酸的混合物;植物油的例子是以下的油:腰果、花生、摩洛哥坚果、鳄梨、布里奇果、咖啡豆、红花、椰子、油菜籽、米糠、玉米、夏威夷果、杏仁、胡桃、巴西坚果、榛子、橄榄、棕榈、山核桃、开心果、芝麻、大豆、棉籽、向日葵籽、南瓜籽、葡萄藤种子、大麻等;根据本发明,优选的油是以下的油:橄榄、米糠、布里奇果、大麻、咖啡豆。植物脂的例子是以下的脂:可可豆、乳木果、古布阿苏、橄榄、芒果、杏、木鲁星果棕、杏仁、大米等。如上定义的术语“脂肪酸”不限于游离脂肪酸,还包括作为酯的一部分而且具有更高结构的脂肪酸,通常(单/二/三)甘油酯:在这种情况下,氨基酸的氨基将形成具有相应甘油酯的酰基的酰胺。
用于本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯的优选实例是具有以下的酰基的酰胺形式的甘氨酸乙酯:硬脂酸、棕榈酸、油酸、亚油酸、来自植物油(橄榄、米糠、布里奇果、咖啡豆和大麻油)的脂肪酸。也能以相应盐酸盐的形式使用氨基酸烷基酯。
本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯能够通过合成制备:为此,可以使用:(a)导致在所考虑的脂肪酸和氨基酸之间形成酰胺的任何反应/过程,和(b)导致形成相应的氨基酸烷基酯的任何反应/过程。可以按顺序(顺序无关)或同时执行反应(a)和(b)。或者,可以使用氨基酸烷基酯作为起始材料并可以通过反应(a)形成相应的脂氨基酸;或者可以使用脂氨基酸作为起始材料并可以通过反应(b)形成相应的烷基酯。优选地,该过程是“绿色”过程,即,该过程是生态友好的并且不使用可以痕量保留在最终产品中的侵蚀性化学试剂。“绿色”过程的优选实例在本申请人的上述共同未决的申请PCT/IT2019/000045中描述并以通过引用的方式并入本文:其包括用微波照射混合物,该混合物包含:(a)氨基酸烷基酯和(b)脂肪酸和/或植物油和/或脂。可以在较宽的重量比范围内,例如在1:1至1:3使用氨基酸烷基酯和脂肪酸;在使用植物油或脂的情况下,氨基酸烷基酯和植物油和/或脂的重量比可以广泛地变化,例如在0.2:1至1:1。将氨基酸烷基酯和脂肪酸或植物油和/或脂在合适的反应器中混合;然后使混合物在搅拌下经受微波辐射。
该反应导致在氨基酸烷基酯的氨基和脂肪酸的酰基之间形成酰胺:所讨论的酰基构成游离的或酯化形式的所使用的脂肪酸,特别是当使用植物油和/或脂时作为甘油三酯。辐射在室温下进行可变的时间,例如15、20或30分钟,得以在80℃至120℃加热反应混合物。为了提高反应产率(理解为形成氨基酸烷基酯的酰胺的百分比),通过使所得混合物在上述条件下经受一个或多个,例如2个或3个另外的辐射循环,可以执行该过程;特别是在120℃下通过两个30分钟的过程循环获得高产率。替代地或除了应用另外的循环之外,还可以进行另外的再循环:在这种情况下,首先向反应混合物补充新的氨基酸烷基酯,然后在上述条件下进行另外的辐射;根据要执行的再循环的次数重复所述工序。也可以根据放大过程通过延长辐射时间以单次循环执行该反应。以上包含的申请PCT/IT2019/000045还描述了可用于本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯的实例。
在本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯中,被理解为相对于氨基酸的可用氨基存在的酰胺的量的纯度百分比不需要是高的。的确证实了SPF增效剂效果也存在于含有大量未反应的脂肪酸、油或脂的脂氨基酸。所述产品不导致共存问题并且能为了本发明的目的而配合。
在本发明的组合物中,防晒剂施加基础光防护作用,根据本发明,基础光防护作用通过上述SPF增效剂显著增加。众所周知,防晒剂保护皮肤免晒伤,并防止皮肤癌(例如黑素瘤和晒伤、早期皮肤老化或晒斑)的风险。由于每种防晒剂提供特定种类的保护,防晒产品通常利用防晒剂的组合来确保更宽的防护;两种或更多防晒剂的所述组合在本发明中同样可用,并且包括在本说明书中使用的通用术语“防晒剂”中。防晒剂可具有有机或无机结构:有机防晒剂通常吸收UVA和UVB射线,而无机防晒剂(或矿物防晒剂)反射UVB辐射(二氧化钛)和UVA辐射(氧化锌)。所使用的防晒剂是世界范围内各个国家的立法所允许的那些。以非限制性方式,他们可能属于以下类别:肉桂酸酯(例如,DEA甲氧基肉桂酸酯、二异丙基肉桂酸甲酯、二异丙基肉桂酸乙酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、甘油乙基己酸酯二甲氧基肉桂酸酯、对甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯、异戊醇三甲氧基肉桂酸酯三硅氧烷、甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、西诺沙酯)、三嗪类(如双乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪、三联苯三嗪)、三嗪酮类(如乙基己基三嗪酮、二乙基己基丁酰胺基三嗪酮)、苯并咪唑类(如苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸酯二钠、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸)、樟脑衍生物(如3-亚苄基樟脑、4-甲基亚苄基樟脑、亚苄基樟脑磺酸、樟脑苯扎甲基硫酸铵、聚丙烯酰胺甲基亚苄基樟脑、对苯二亚甲基二樟脑磺酸)、苯并噁唑、二芳基丁二烯、苯并三唑(如双辛三唑、甲酚曲唑、甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷)、亚苄基丙二酸酯、亚苯甲基丙二酸酯(如聚硅氧烷15)、水杨酸酯(如水杨酸乙酯、水杨酸异丙基苄酯、水杨酸甲酯、胡莫柳酯)、苯甲酸酯(如二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯、PABA、乙基PABA、丁基PABA、乙基二羟丙基PABA、乙基己基二甲基PABA、甘油基PABA、对二甲氨基苯甲酸戊酯、PEG-25PABA)、二苯甲酮(如二苯甲酮1、二苯甲酮2、二苯甲酮3、二苯甲酮4、二苯甲酮5、二苯甲酮6、二苯甲酮7、二苯甲酮8、二苯甲酮9、4-丙氧基-2-羟基二苯甲酮)、二苯甲酰甲烷(如阿伏苯宗)、丙烯酸二苯酯(如氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯)、邻氨基苯甲酸酯(如邻氨基苯甲酸甲酯)、阿魏酸、二倍酰基三油酸酯、金属氧化物、金属氧化物与脂质的混合物。特别优选:双乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪;丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷;二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯;甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯;氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯;二氧化钛(和)辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(和)氧化铝(和)异硬脂酸(和)聚羟基硬脂酸(和)硬脂酸(和)聚甘油-3聚蓖麻醇酸酯(和)卵磷脂;二氧化钛(和)二氧化硅;氧化锌(和)辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(和)聚羟基硬脂酸(和)异硬脂酸(和)卵磷脂(和)聚甘油-3聚蓖麻醇酸酯;氧化锌(和)芝麻籽油(和)聚甘油-2二聚羟基硬脂酸酯(和)聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯。
本发明的增效剂能够用于含有防晒剂的任何化妆品中。化妆品能够广泛地选自:溶液、混悬液、乳液、凝胶、水凝胶、霜剂、油膏、油、喷雾、泡沫、粉末等。从涂抹的角度来看,其能够选自:皮肤护理产品、美容面膜、粉底、粉末、滑石粉末、香皂、香水、淡香水、古龙水、用于洗澡和淋浴的制剂、脱毛产品、除臭剂、止汗剂、染发剂、烫发、拉直和固定产品、头发定型产品、头发清洁产品(洗剂、粉剂、洗发水)、保持头发形状的产品、头发造型产品(洗剂、喷雾、润发油)、剃须产品、化妆产品和卸妆产品、打算施用在嘴唇上的产品、指甲护理产品和指甲油、防晒产品、自晒黑产品、皮肤提亮产品和抗皱产品等。在非限制性变型中,化妆品组合物不包括霜剂;在非限制性变型中,化妆品组合物不包括乳液。在非限制性变体中,化妆品组合物不包括晒黑产品。在另一非限制性变体中,化妆品组合物是液体、霜状或糊状组合物。在另一非限制性变体中,化妆品组合物选自乳液、分散剂、油和药膏。
在所述化妆品中,脂氨基酸烷基酯能够存在的量优选为组合物重量的0.5%至20%重量比,更优选0.5%至15%重量比。防晒剂可以存在的量为组合物重量的5%至80%重量比;特别地,本发明的脂氨基酸烷基酯的增效剂效果允许在5%至30%重量比的更优选范围内有利地减少的防晒剂的量,从而保持高SPF值。此外优选的是,在增效剂和防晒剂之间存在平衡:具体地,脂氨基酸烷基酯与防晒剂的重量比能够在1:0.2至1:8。
现在通过以下非限制性实施例来描述本发明。
实验部分
材料和方法
制备含有物理和化学防晒剂的各种化妆品制剂,例如:W/O乳液、O/W乳液、油性分散剂、防晒油、唇膏。
用于制备该制剂的防晒剂如下:
·双乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪;
·丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷;
·二乙氨基羟苯甲酰苯甲酸己酯;
·甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯;
·氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯;
·二氧化钛(和)辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(和)氧化铝(和)异硬脂酸(和)聚羟基硬脂酸(和)硬脂酸(和)聚甘油-3聚蓖麻醇酸酯(和)卵磷脂;
·二氧化钛(和)二氧化硅;
·氧化锌(和)辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(和)聚羟基硬脂酸(和)异硬脂酸(和)卵磷脂(和)聚甘油-3聚蓖麻醇酸酯;
·氧化锌(和)芝麻(Sesamum Indicum)籽油(和)聚甘油-2二聚羟基硬脂酸酯(和)聚甘油-3双异硬脂酸酯。
所使用的增效剂被称为:
·增效剂1(由橄榄油和甘氨酸乙酯获得的混合物);
·增效剂2(由大麻籽油和甘氨酸乙酯获得的混合物);
增效剂1和2的1H-NMR(600MHz)谱分别显示在图1和2中。下面报道了在CDCl3溶剂中记录的相应值。
酰胺含量基于甘油的CH2的质子的积分与酰胺的CH2的质子的积分的比较。
甘油的CH2存在于所有起始甘油三酯分子中:其因此代表100%;如果甘油的CH2的积分设定为1(100%起始甘油三酯分子),那么酰胺的CH2的积分直接提供具有酰胺链的分子的分数。
存在于增效剂1中的酰胺%:约50%;
存在于增效剂2中的酰胺%:约36%。
根据以下方法测量SPF值:使用分光光度计Labsphere 2000S在体外测定,其能够基于穿过日光产品的UV照射的漫透射率提供数据。
SPF值的计算符合Diffey等式(Diffley B.,Stokes R.P.,Serge F.,MazilierC.,Rougier A.Suncare product photostability:a key parameter for a morerealistic in vitro efficacy evaluation.(防晒产品光稳定性:用于更真实的体外功效评价的关键参数)Eur.J.Dermatol.,7,226-228(1987)):
其中:
E(λ)是光谱太阳辐射;
B(λ)是红斑作用的光谱;
T(λ)是样品透射率。
对于测定,在W/O乳液、分散剂、油和唇膏的情况下,PMMA(聚(甲基丙烯酸甲酯)用作基质;在O/W乳液的情况下,TransporeTM用作基质。
化妆品制剂
实施例1-W/O乳液
1A-1C:具有物理防晒剂的W/O乳液(平均SPF)
1D-1F:具有物理防晒剂的W/O乳液(高SPF)
1G-1J:具有化学防晒剂的W/O乳液(平均SPF)
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1K-1O:具有化学防晒剂的W/O乳液(高SPF)
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实施例2-O/W乳液2A-2C:具有化学和物理防晒剂的O/W乳液(增效剂1)
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2D-2E:具有化学和物理防晒剂的O/W乳液(增效剂2)
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2F-2G:市售O/W乳液(增效剂1)
还评价了将增效剂混合物1添加至配制为具有高SPF的乳液的市售产品。
随后,包装上报告INCI成分的组成。在这种情况下,添加增效剂导致SPF在体外增加。
成分:水、胡莫柳酯、水杨酸乙基己酯、甘油、辛酰辛酸酯/癸酸酯、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、双乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪、亚甲基双苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚(纳米)、三联苯三嗪(纳米),十六烷基磷酸钾、辛酸丙基庚酯、透明质酸钠、丁二醇、卡波姆、鲸蜡醇、柠檬酸、癸基葡糖苷、聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、磷酸二钠、氢化二聚二亚油醇碳酸酯/碳酸二甲酯共聚物、香精、PEG-8月桂酸酯、四-二-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸季戊四醇酯、苯氧乙醇、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、丙二醇、二氧化硅、脱氢乙酸钠、苯乙烯/丙烯酸酯共聚物、叔丁醇、木薯淀粉、生育酚乙酸酯、乙二胺二琥珀酸三钠、黄原胶。
SPF乳液:35.01±0.57
添加5%增效剂1混合物的SPF乳液:45.98±0.34
实施例3-分散剂
3A-3F:具有物理防晒剂的分散剂(平均SPF)
评估具有不同物理防晒剂的两种混合物的分散剂;下文报道了配方。
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3G-3H:市售分散剂(增效剂1)
还评价了将增效剂1混合物添加至配制为具有高SPF的分散剂的市售产品。
随后,包装上报告INCI成分的组成。在这种情况下,添加增效剂导致SPF在体外增加。
成分:碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、二氧化钛、刺阿干树仁油、氢氧化铝、硬脂酸、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯、油醇、竹叶花椒(Zanthoxylum Alatum)水果提取物、杂交向日葵油、油橄榄果油、蜂胶提取物、花粉提取物
SPF市售分散剂:52.37±0.63
添加增效剂1混合物5%的SPF市售分散剂:67.81±1.00
实施例4-防晒油
4A-4C:防晒油(增效剂1)
4D-4E:防晒油(增效剂2)
实施例5-润唇膏
5A-5B:具有物理防晒剂的润唇膏
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5C-5D:具有化学防晒剂的润唇膏
结果概述
在下文中,总结了在先前描述的各种实施例中获得的结果。
表格显示:示出了所使用的增效剂和防晒剂的量、获得的SPF值、以及增效剂导致的SPF值增加的百分比的制剂示例。
实施例1-W/O乳液
含有物理防晒剂的W/O乳液
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含有化学防晒剂的W/O乳液
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实施例2-O/W乳液
市售O/W乳液
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实施例3-油性分散剂
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市售分散剂
实施例4-防晒油
实施例5-润唇膏
具有物理防晒剂的润唇膏
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具有化学防晒剂的润唇膏
脂氨基酸烷基酯的合成
1.材料和方法
选择甘氨酸乙酯作为工作实施例。合成是在不存在有机溶剂的情况下用微波辐射进行的。使用脂肪酸或者植物油作为试剂评估产率和产率差异。在用水洗涤后,将反应产量评估为反应原料中酰胺的百分比。
方法1:温度120℃;油:氨基甲酸酯比率=按重量计5:1(即1:0.2);微波(MW)辐射:60’(每次两个30’持续时间的循环)。
方法2:温度120℃;油:氨基酸酯(盐酸酯)比率=按重量5:1;氨基酸酯(盐酸酯)乙酸钠比例=1:1摩尔。
-MW辐射:60’(每次两个30’持续时间的循环)
*CC:色谱柱
纯化允许分离由NMR鉴定的化学式为(I)的次级产物(二肽副产物),其中R对应于脂肪酸的烷基。
鉴定:
用1H-NMR分析作为原料(在用水洗涤之后)以及作为纯产物(在用层或柱色谱纯化之后)的反应产物。
HPLC分析允许鉴定和定量油酸和亚油酸的酰胺。两种酰胺的产率差异反映了起始油中酸性组分的百分比。合成的化合物具有亲脂特性。
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表1:用脂肪酸和油获得的某些纯酰胺的化学位移
表2:从油酸获得的酰胺(通过产物)的化学位移
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表3:用水洗涤后的粗品的化学位移
Claims (13)
1.脂氨基酸烷基酯在提高包含防晒剂的化妆品的防晒系数(SPF)中的用途。
2.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述烷基酯是直链或支链的C1-C24烷基酯。
3.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述脂氨基酸包含直链或支链的、饱和或不饱和的C4-C24脂肪族单羧酸的酰基。
4.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述烷基酯是C1-C4酯。
5.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述烷基酯是C2酯。
6.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述脂氨基酸包括甘氨酸结构。
7.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述脂氨基酸烷基酯以0.5%至20%重量比的量存在于所述化妆品中。
8.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述防晒剂以5%至80%重量比的量存在于所述化妆品中。
9.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中在所述化妆品中所述脂氨基酸烷基酯与所述防晒剂的重量比为1:0.2至1:8。
10.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述防晒剂选自肉桂酸酯、三嗪、苯并咪唑、亚苄基樟脑、苯并噁唑、二芳基丁二烯、苯基苯并三唑、亚苄基丙二酸酯、苯亚甲基丙二酸酯、水杨酸酯、苯甲酸酯、二苯甲酮、二苯甲酰甲烷、丙烯酸二苯基酯、邻氨基苯甲酸酯、金属氧化物、金属氧化物与脂质的混合物、以及它们的衍生物。
11.如权利要求1所述的用途,其中所述化妆品选自皮肤护理产品、美容面膜、粉底、粉末、滑石粉末、香皂、香水、淡香水、古龙水、用于洗澡和淋浴的制剂、脱毛产品、除臭剂、止汗剂、染发剂、烫发、拉直和固定产品、头发定型产品、头发清洁产品(洗剂、粉剂、洗发水)、保持头发形状的产品、头发造型产品(洗剂、喷雾、润发油)、剃须产品、化妆产品和卸妆产品、打算施用在嘴唇上的产品、指甲护理产品和指甲油、防晒产品、自晒黑产品、皮肤提亮产品和抗皱产品。
12.如权利要求1至11中任一权利要求所述的用途,其中所述脂氨基酸烷基酯是在不存在有机溶剂的情况下用微波辐射包含(a)氨基酸烷基酯和(b)游离的或酯化的脂肪酸和/或植物油和/或植物脂的混合物而获得的。
13.光防护化妆品,其包含防晒剂和权利要求1至12所述的脂氨基酸烷基酯。
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