CN116732780B - Cellulose-containing fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof - Google Patents
Cellulose-containing fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN116732780B CN116732780B CN202310698324.6A CN202310698324A CN116732780B CN 116732780 B CN116732780 B CN 116732780B CN 202310698324 A CN202310698324 A CN 202310698324A CN 116732780 B CN116732780 B CN 116732780B
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- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 46
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 37
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 88
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 84
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 78
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- 238000007517 polishing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 24
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- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 claims description 66
- 239000012224 working solution Substances 0.000 claims description 40
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 30
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Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a cellulose-containing fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof, wherein the dyeing and finishing process sequentially comprises pretreatment, primary desizing, secondary desizing and post-processing processes, and a biological enzyme polishing process is further included between the primary desizing and the secondary desizing, and the pretreatment comprises the following steps: sizing warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving fabrics, wherein the sizing agent used in the sizing process comprises sizing agent A and sizing agent B, wherein the sizing agent A is modified starch slurry or polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and the sizing agent B is starch slurry; the bio-enzyme polishing process includes: and (3) carrying out biological enzyme polishing treatment on the pretreated and primary desized fabric by adopting biological enzyme, and washing with water. According to the invention, the fabric is pretreated and desized twice, and the biological enzyme polishing procedure is arranged between the two desizing procedures, so that the main structure of the fabric can be polished strongly under the protection of the sizing agent, the surface of the fabric is smoother and softer, the fuzzing and pilling resistance of the fabric is improved, and meanwhile, the strong damage to the fabric is reduced.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a cellulose-containing fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof.
Background
The bedding fabric is subjected to friction action of various external forces continuously in the use process, particularly when the bedding fabric is washed, severe friction is generated between the fabric, after washing for a plurality of times, the surface of the fabric is fluffed, and small hair balls can be formed on the surface of the fabric, so that the comfort, the neatness and the attractiveness of the fabric in the use process are affected.
In order to improve the service performance and surface quality of the fabric, biological enzyme polishing treatment is usually carried out on the fabric, namely a finishing process for removing fuzz on the surface of a cellulose product by using cellulase so as to achieve durable surface finish, fuzzing resistance and softness. The textile fabric is treated by controllable cellulase, so that the textile fabric has durable smooth surface, clear texture and soft hand feeling. However, after the cellulose fabric is treated by cellulase, the physical properties of the fabric are changed, such as the moisture absorption capacity is increased, but transverse fracture is generated, so that the polymerization degree is reduced, the strong damage is serious, and even short separable fiber fragments can be cracked.
The strong damage to the fabric is reduced by controlling the preparation process of the cellulase and controlling the proportion of the endo-enzyme and the exo-enzyme as disclosed in patent CN101974491 a; also, as in patent CN1282389a, the strong damage to the fabric is reduced by using cellulases with low affinity. The above method can reduce strong damage to the fabric only in a limited range, and it is difficult to perform strong polishing of biological enzymes, so that the polishing effect on the fabric is limited.
Therefore, a dyeing and finishing process capable of performing bio-enzyme strong polishing on the fabric to make the fabric smoother and soft in hand feel and simultaneously reducing the strong damage to the fabric is needed.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, an object of the present invention is to provide a cellulose-containing fabric and a dyeing and finishing process thereof, which can obtain a smooth and flat surface and a soft hand feel of the cellulose-containing fabric, and can improve fuzzing and pilling resistance, and reduce strength loss at the same time, so as to ensure weft breaking strength of the fabric.
In order to achieve the above and other related objects, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, which sequentially comprises pretreatment, primary desizing, secondary desizing and subsequent processing processes, wherein a biological enzyme polishing procedure is further included between the primary desizing and the secondary desizing;
The pretreatment comprises the following steps: sizing warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving the fabric, wherein the sizing used in the sizing process comprises sizing A and sizing B, wherein the sizing A is modified starch slurry or polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and the sizing B is starch slurry;
The bio-enzyme polishing process includes: and (3) carrying out biological enzyme polishing treatment on the pretreated and primary desized fabric by adopting biological enzyme, and washing with water.
In the invention, the post processing technology comprises boiling and bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering of the fabric after the secondary desizing.
Optionally, the number average molecular weight of the slurry A is 250-750, and the number average molecular weight of the slurry B is 760-3000.
In the invention, the starch slurry is modified or the molecular weight of the polyvinyl alcohol slurry is regulated so that the number average molecular weight of the slurry A (i.e. modified starch slurry or polyvinyl alcohol slurry) is 250-750, and the number average molecular weight of the slurry B (i.e. starch slurry) is regulated and controlled to 760-3000, so that the viscosity of the slurry A is lower than that of the slurry B, and in the sizing process, the slurry A with lower viscosity permeates into the yarn body, the slurry B with higher viscosity is left on the surface of the yarn, and the subsequent one-time desizing is convenient for desizing the slurry B on the surface layer.
Optionally, in the sizing process, the mass ratio of the slurry A to the slurry B is 0.5-3: 1.
Optionally, in the sizing process, the temperature during sizing is 95-98 ℃.
Optionally, in the sizing process, the vehicle speed is 500-700 r/min.
In the invention, the sizing process adopts a high-temperature process mainly comprising permeation and being covered as an auxiliary, and the sizing rate is controlled to be 8-9% and the sizing elongation is controlled to be 0.7-1% by adopting a high-temperature and vehicle speed regulating mode so as to further strengthen the permeation of the sizing agent A, and meanwhile, the sizing roller is tightly wrapped, so that the surface elasticity of the yarn is kept.
Optionally, the fabric obtained after pretreatment is desized once with amylase.
Optionally, the concentration of the amylase is 11-14 g/L.
Optionally, the temperature of the primary desizing is 65-85 ℃.
According to the invention, the warp and weft yarns are sized by pretreatment, the warp and weft yarns are woven to obtain the fabric, the singeing treatment is carried out on the obtained fabric, and the fabric is desized once, wherein amylase is adopted in the primary desizing process, the sizing agent B (namely starch slurry) on the surface of the fabric is removed, the desizing rate is controlled to be 40% -50%, so that the sizing agent A (namely modified starch slurry or polyvinyl alcohol slurry) permeated into the yarn body is still positioned in the yarn body, the main structure of the fabric can be protected, and the influence of a biological enzyme polishing process on the fabric is reduced.
Optionally, the biological enzyme is cellulase.
In the invention, the cellulase has stronger affinity to cellulose in the fabric, and the working solution containing the cellulase contacts the fabric, so that the surface of the fabric can be subjected to biological enzyme polishing to improve the appearance and performance of the fabric containing the cellulose.
Optionally, the working solution used in the biological enzyme polishing treatment process comprises a penetrating agent, wherein the penetrating agent is fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether.
Optionally, the weight ratio of the cellulase to the fabric is 1% -4.8%.
Optionally, the concentration of the fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether in the working solution is 1.0-4.3 g/L.
Optionally, the pH of the working fluid is 4.5 to 5.5, preferably 4.7 to 5.2.
Optionally, in the bio-enzyme polishing treatment process, the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:9 to 30.
Optionally, in the bio-enzyme polishing process, the temperature of the bio-enzyme polishing process is 47-70 ℃, preferably 50-55 ℃, and the time of the bio-enzyme polishing process is 35-80 min.
Optionally, in the bio-enzyme polishing process, the temperature of water washing is 82-89 ℃.
In the invention, after the biological enzyme polishing treatment is finished, the cellulase is fully washed and extinguished by adopting a high-temperature water washing mode, so that unnecessary damage to the fabric caused by the residue of the cellulase in the subsequent treatment process is avoided.
Optionally, the slurry A is a polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and the alcoholysis degree of the polyvinyl alcohol in the polyvinyl alcohol slurry is 90% -95% (mol/mol).
According to the invention, the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent is further adopted as sizing agent A, and meanwhile, the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent adopts the polyvinyl alcohol with high alcoholysis degree, so that the sizing agent A is facilitated to permeate into the yarn body, and the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent is not influenced by amylase in the primary desizing process, so that the sizing agent A stably existing in the yarn body can better protect the main structure of the fabric.
Optionally, the fabric subjected to the bio-enzyme polishing process is subjected to secondary desizing by adopting sodium hydroxide solution, and is subjected to secondary water washing.
Optionally, the concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution is 5-10 g/L.
Optionally, the temperature of the secondary water washing is 80-85 ℃, and the times of the secondary water washing are 3-5 times.
In the invention, the fabric polished by biological enzyme is subjected to secondary desizing by adopting a sodium hydroxide solution through heat alkali treatment, and the sodium hydroxide and the polyvinyl alcohol in the fabric yarn body are severely swelled, so that the solubility of the polyvinyl alcohol is improved, and then the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent is dissolved and washed and removed by adopting a high-temperature water washing mode, so that the aim of secondary desizing is fulfilled.
In another aspect, the present invention also provides a cellulose-containing fabric made according to the dyeing and finishing process described above.
In the present invention, the cellulose-containing fabrics include, but are not limited to, one or more of cotton, flax, ramie, hemp, jute, rayon, lyocell, and also include fabrics made from mixtures of cellulose fibers with other non-cellulose fibers.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
According to the invention, the pretreatment process is optimized, the warp yarn and weft yarn for weaving the fabric are simultaneously sized, two sizing agents with different molecular weights (viscosities) are adopted, so that modified starch sizing agents with lower viscosities penetrate into the yarn body, starch sizing agents with higher viscosities are remained on the surface of the yarn, then amylase is adopted to remove the modified starch sizing agents on the surface of the fabric through primary desizing, so that the main structure of the fabric is still under the protection effect of the starch sizing agents in the yarn body, the biological enzyme polishing process is further increased, the fabric surface is strongly polished, the fabric is enabled to obtain a smoother and smoother surface and softer hand feeling, the fuzzing and pilling resistance performance of the fabric is improved, the secondary desizing process is carried out on the fabric, the sizing agents in the yarn body are removed, the fabric with cellulose can ensure the weft breaking strength of the fabric while the excellent polishing effect is obtained, and the strong damage to the fabric caused by the biological enzyme polishing process is reduced.
According to the invention, the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent with lower viscosity is further adopted as sizing agent to permeate into the yarn body, so that the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent positioned in the yarn body is not influenced by amylase during primary desizing, and further the main structure of the fabric is continuously protected, so that the strong damage to the fabric is further reduced during strong polishing of the fabric surface.
Detailed Description
Other advantages and effects of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following disclosure, which describes the embodiments of the present invention with reference to specific examples. The invention may be practiced or carried out in other embodiments that depart from the specific details, and the details of the present description may be modified or varied from the spirit and scope of the present invention. It should be understood that the preferred embodiments are presented by way of illustration only and not by way of limitation.
The invention provides a dyeing and finishing process of cellulose-containing fabric, which sequentially comprises pretreatment, primary desizing, secondary desizing and subsequent processing processes, and biological enzyme polishing working procedures are further included between the primary desizing and the secondary desizing,
The pretreatment comprises the following steps: sizing warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving fabrics, wherein the sizing agent used in the sizing process is mixed sizing agent of sizing agent A and sizing agent B, the sizing agent A is modified starch sizing agent or polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent, and the sizing agent B is starch sizing agent;
The bio-enzyme polishing process includes: and (3) carrying out biological enzyme polishing treatment on the pretreated and primary desized fabric by adopting biological enzyme, and washing with water.
In one embodiment of the present invention, a dyeing and finishing process for a cellulose-containing fabric is provided, comprising the steps of:
Pretreatment: according to the mass ratio of the slurry A to the slurry B of 0.5-3: 1, mixing slurry A with the number average molecular weight of 250-750 and slurry B with the number average molecular weight of 760-3000 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at the temperature of 95-98 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 500-700 r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain a fabric, and singeing the obtained fabric;
primary desizing: desizing the pretreated fabric for one time at the temperature of 65-85 ℃ by adopting amylase with the concentration of 11-14 g/L;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 1-4.8%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 1.0-4.3 g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 4.5-5.5, and the bath ratio of fabric to working solution is 1: 9-30, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment for 35-80 min at the temperature of 47-70 ℃, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 82-89 ℃;
secondary desizing: performing secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process;
The subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing.
Wherein, the slurry A is modified starch slurry or polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and the slurry B is starch slurry.
In another embodiment of the present invention, slurry a is a polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and the degree of alcoholysis of the polyvinyl alcohol in the polyvinyl alcohol slurry is 90% -95% (mol/mol), and the secondary desizing of the cellulose-containing fabric further comprises: and (3) adopting sodium hydroxide solution with the concentration of 5-10 g/L to perform secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process, and performing secondary water washing for 3-5 times at the temperature of 80-85 ℃.
The invention also provides a cellulose-containing fabric prepared according to the dyeing and finishing process.
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific exemplary examples. It is also to be understood that the following examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations upon the scope of the invention, as many insubstantial modifications and variations are within the scope of the invention as would be apparent to those skilled in the art in light of the foregoing disclosure. The specific process parameters and the like described below are also merely examples of suitable ranges, i.e., one skilled in the art can make a suitable selection from the description herein and are not intended to be limited to the specific values described below. It should be understood that in the following examples, only the specific case of spinning with Xinjiang long staple cotton (main body length of 38mm, breaking strength of 38 cN/tex) to obtain yarn, and further treating with weaving and dyeing and finishing processes to obtain cellulose-containing fabric is exemplified.
In the present invention, cellulose-containing fabrics include, but are not limited to, one or more of cotton, flax, ramie, hemp, jute, rayon, lyocell, and fabrics made from blends of cellulose fibers with other non-cellulose fibers.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, wherein the adopted slurry A is modified starch slurry, and specifically comprises the following steps:
Pretreatment: the mass ratio of the modified starch slurry to the starch slurry is 3:1, mixing modified starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 250 and starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 760 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at the temperature of 95 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 500r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain a fabric with the specification of 100s/2 multiplied by 50s and the density of 200 multiplied by 100 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabric;
Primary desizing: carrying out primary desizing on the fabric obtained after pretreatment by adopting amylase with the concentration of 11g/L at the temperature of 85 ℃;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 1%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 1.0g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 4.5, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:9, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment at the temperature of 47 ℃ for 80min, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 82 ℃;
secondary desizing: performing secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process;
the subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing, so that the fabric containing cellulose is obtained.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, wherein the adopted slurry A is modified starch slurry, and specifically comprises the following steps:
Pretreatment: the mass ratio of the modified starch slurry to the starch slurry is 2:1, mixing modified starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 500 and starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 1800 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at the temperature of 96 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 600r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain a fabric with the specification of 100s/2 multiplied by 50s and the density of 200 multiplied by 100 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabric;
primary desizing: desizing the pretreated fabric for the first time at the temperature of 75 ℃ by adopting amylase with the concentration of 12 g/L;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 2%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 2.5g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 5.0, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:15, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment at the temperature of 52 ℃ for 60min, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 86 ℃;
secondary desizing: performing secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process;
the subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing, so that the fabric containing cellulose is obtained.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, wherein the adopted slurry A is modified starch slurry, and specifically comprises the following steps:
Pretreatment: the mass ratio of the modified starch slurry to the starch slurry is 0.5:1, mixing modified starch slurry with a number average molecular weight of 750 and starch slurry with a number average molecular weight of 3000 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at a temperature of 98 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 700r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain a fabric with a specification of 100s/2 multiplied by 50s and a density of 200 multiplied by 100 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabric;
primary desizing: desizing the pretreated fabric for the first time at the temperature of 65 ℃ by adopting amylase with the concentration of 14 g/L;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 4.8%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 4.3g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 5.5, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:30, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment at the temperature of 70 ℃ for 35min, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 89 ℃;
secondary desizing: performing secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process;
the subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing, so that the fabric containing cellulose is obtained.
Example 4
The embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, wherein the adopted slurry A is polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and specifically comprises the following steps:
Pretreatment: the mass ratio of the polyvinyl alcohol slurry to the starch slurry is 3:1, mixing polyvinyl alcohol slurry with the number average molecular weight of 250 (alcoholysis degree of the polyvinyl alcohol is 90% (mol/mol)) and starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 760 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at the temperature of 95 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 500r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain fabrics with the specification of 60s multiplied by 60s and the density of 200 multiplied by 98 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabrics;
Primary desizing: carrying out primary desizing on the fabric obtained after pretreatment by adopting amylase with the concentration of 11g/L at the temperature of 85 ℃;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 1%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 1.0g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 4.5, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:9, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment at the temperature of 47 ℃ for 80min, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 82 ℃;
Secondary desizing: adopting sodium hydroxide solution with the concentration of 5g/L to perform secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process, and performing secondary water washing for 3 times at the temperature of 80 ℃;
the subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing, so that the fabric containing cellulose is obtained.
Example 5
The embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, wherein the adopted slurry A is polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and specifically comprises the following steps:
Pretreatment: the mass ratio of the polyvinyl alcohol slurry to the starch slurry is 0.5:1, mixing polyvinyl alcohol slurry with the number average molecular weight of 500 (alcoholysis degree of the polyvinyl alcohol is 93 percent (mol/mol)) with starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 1800 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at the temperature of 96 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 600r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain fabrics with the specification of 60s multiplied by 60s and the density of 200 multiplied by 98 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabrics;
primary desizing: desizing the pretreated fabric for the first time at the temperature of 75 ℃ by adopting amylase with the concentration of 12 g/L;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 2%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 3.0g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 5.0, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:15, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment at the temperature of 52 ℃ for 50min, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 86 ℃;
secondary desizing: adopting sodium hydroxide solution with the concentration of 8g/L to carry out secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process, and carrying out secondary water washing for 4 times at the temperature of 83 ℃;
the subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing, so that the fabric containing cellulose is obtained.
Example 6
The embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing process of a cellulose-containing fabric, wherein the adopted slurry A is polyvinyl alcohol slurry, and specifically comprises the following steps:
Pretreatment: the mass ratio of the polyvinyl alcohol slurry to the starch slurry is 1:1, mixing polyvinyl alcohol slurry with a number average molecular weight of 750 (alcoholysis degree of polyvinyl alcohol is 95% (mol/mol)) with starch slurry with a number average molecular weight of 3000 to obtain mixed slurry, sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at a temperature of 98 ℃ by using the mixed slurry, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 700r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain fabrics with a specification of 60s multiplied by 60s and a density of 200 multiplied by 98 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabrics;
primary desizing: desizing the pretreated fabric for the first time at the temperature of 65 ℃ by adopting amylase with the concentration of 14 g/L;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 4.8%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 4.3g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 5.5, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:30, putting the fabric subjected to primary desizing into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment at the temperature of 70 ℃ for 35min, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 89 ℃;
Secondary desizing: adopting 10g/L sodium hydroxide solution to perform secondary desizing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process, and performing secondary water washing for 5 times at the temperature of 85 ℃;
the subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the fabric subjected to the secondary desizing, so that the fabric containing cellulose is obtained.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that: the warp and weft yarns are sized only with starch slurry and are not secondarily desized, and the concrete steps are as follows:
Pretreatment: sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at a temperature of 95 ℃ by adopting starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 760, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 500r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain fabrics with the specification of 100s/2 multiplied by 50s and the density of 200 multiplied by 100 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabrics;
desizing: carrying out primary desizing on the fabric obtained after pretreatment by adopting amylase with the concentration of 11g/L at the temperature of 85 ℃;
Biological enzyme polishing: preparing a working solution according to the weight ratio of cellulose to fabric of 1%, wherein the concentration of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether is 1.0g/L, the pH value of the working solution is adjusted to 4.5, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1:9, putting the desized fabric into a working solution, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment for 80min at the temperature of 47 ℃, and then performing water washing at the temperature of 82 ℃;
The subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) sequentially performing scouring, dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering on the fabric polished by the biological enzyme to obtain the fabric containing cellulose.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that: the warp and weft yarns are sized only with starch slurry, and no bio-enzyme polishing and secondary desizing are performed, and the specific steps are as follows:
Pretreatment: sizing warp yarns and weft yarns at a temperature of 95 ℃ by adopting starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 760, controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 500r/min, weaving the sized warp yarns and weft yarns to obtain fabrics with the specification of 100s/2 multiplied by 50s and the density of 200 multiplied by 100 pieces per inch, and singeing the obtained fabrics;
desizing: carrying out primary desizing on the fabric obtained after pretreatment by adopting amylase with the concentration of 11g/L at the temperature of 85 ℃;
The subsequent processing technology comprises the following steps: and (3) boiling, bleaching, printing and dyeing, softening, first calendering, shrinking and second calendering are sequentially carried out on the desized fabric to obtain the fabric containing cellulose.
Performance detection
In the dyeing and finishing processes of examples 1 to 6 and comparative example 1, the weft breaking strength of the fabric obtained after the pretreatment and before the primary desizing and the weft breaking strength of the cellulose-containing fabric obtained by the subsequent processing are respectively detected, and the following formula is adoptedCalculating the retention rate of weft breaking strength, wherein lambda is the retention rate of weft breaking strength and the unit is; f 1 is weft breaking strength of the cellulose-containing fabric obtained by the subsequent processing technology, and the unit is N; f 0 is weft breaking strength of the fabric obtained after pretreatment and before primary desizing, and the unit is N;
Wherein, the weft breaking strength is according to GB/T3923.1 2013 textile fabric tensile property part 1: determination of breaking Strength and elongation at break (bar sample method) and the retention of the weft breaking Strength of the cellulose-containing fabrics of examples 1 to 6 and comparative example 1 was counted in Table 1;
the cellulose-containing fabrics obtained in examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were each sampled according to the evaluation of relative hand values of AATCC TM202 textile clothing: the softness value was measured in the apparatus method, and the softness values of the cellulose-containing fabrics in examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were shown in Table 2;
Samples were taken for the cellulose-containing fabrics obtained in examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 2, respectively, according to section 2 of the measurement of pilling Property of GB/T4802.2008 textile fabrics: the fuzzing and pilling performance was determined by the modified Martindale method, i.e. the samples were rubbed 2000 times under a load of 415+ -2 g, assessed according to the "GSB 16-3223-2014 household textile pilling Standard sample photo" and the anti-fuzzing ratings in examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-2 were given in Table 3.
Table 1 retention of the weft breaking strength of the cellulose-containing fabrics of examples 1 to 6 and comparative example 1
Source(s) | F0/N | F1/N | λ |
Example 1 | 410 | 386 | 94.1% |
Example 2 | 411 | 388 | 94.4% |
Example 3 | 408 | 384 | 94.2% |
Example 4 | 320 | 305 | 95.3% |
Example 5 | 324 | 309 | 95.5% |
Example 6 | 321 | 305 | 95.2% |
Comparative example 1 | 410 | 328 | 80.0% |
Table 2 softening values of cellulose-containing fabrics in examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 2
Source(s) | Softness value |
Example 1 | 76.8 |
Example 2 | 77.0 |
Example 3 | 77.1 |
Example 4 | 78.9 |
Example 5 | 79.1 |
Example 6 | 78.4 |
Comparative example 1 | 77.6 |
Comparative example 2 | 71.3 |
Table 3 anti-pilling grades of cellulose-containing fabrics in examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 2
Source(s) | Anti-pilling grade |
Example 1 | Grade 4 |
Example 2 | Grade 4 |
Example 3 | Grade 4 |
Example 4 | 3-4 Grade |
Example 5 | 3-4 Grade |
Example 6 | Grade 4 |
Comparative example 1 | Grade 4 |
Comparative example 2 | 2-3 Grade |
As is clear from the analysis of Table 1, the retention of the weft breaking strength of the cellulose-containing fabrics of examples 1 to 3 and comparative example 1 was 94.1% or more, whereas the retention of the weft breaking strength of the cellulose-containing fabrics of comparative example 1 was only 80.0%, which is far lower than that of examples 1 to 3. The result shows that the strength loss of the cellulose-containing fabric prepared by the dyeing and finishing process is far smaller than that of the cellulose-containing fabric prepared by the traditional dyeing and finishing process.
As is clear from the analysis of Table 1, the retention of the weft breaking strength of the cellulose-containing fabrics of examples 1 to 3 and examples 4 to 6 was 95.2% or more, which is significantly higher than that of examples 1 to 3. The result shows that the polyvinyl alcohol sizing agent is further adopted as sizing agent with lower viscosity to permeate into the yarn body so as to protect the main structure of the fabric, and the strength loss of the prepared cellulose-containing fabric can be further reduced.
As is clear from the analysis of the softness values of the cellulose-containing fabrics of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 2 in Table 2, the softness value of the cellulose-containing fabric of example 1 was 76.8, which is significantly higher than the softness value of the cellulose-containing fabric of comparative example 2 by 71.3, and the softness value was raised by 8% or more, while the softness value of the cellulose-containing fabric of example 1 was close to that of comparative example 1. The result shows that the hand feeling of the cellulose-containing fabric prepared by the dyeing and finishing process is obviously improved.
As can be seen from the analysis of the pilling resistant grades of the cellulose-containing fabrics of examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 2 in table 3, the pilling resistant grade of the cellulose-containing fabric of example 1 was 4, and was improved by 1 or more than the pilling resistant grade of the cellulose-containing fabric of comparative example 2, while the pilling resistant grade of the cellulose-containing fabric of example 1 was the same as that of comparative example 1. The result shows that the appearance performance of the cellulose-containing fabric prepared by the dyeing and finishing process is obviously improved.
In conclusion, the dyeing and finishing process provided by the invention has the advantages that the structure of the cellulose-containing fabric is clear, the surface is smoother, and the softness is higher, so that the dyeing and finishing process provided by the invention can obtain a good polishing effect, the appearance performance of the cellulose-containing fabric is obviously improved, and meanwhile, the biological enzyme polishing procedure is arranged between primary desizing and secondary desizing by optimizing the pretreatment process, so that the cellulose-containing fabric can ensure the weft breaking strength of the fabric while obtaining a good polishing effect, and the strong damage to the fabric caused by the biological enzyme polishing process is reduced.
The above embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles of the present invention and its effectiveness, and are not intended to limit the invention. Modifications and variations may be made to the above-described embodiments by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all equivalent modifications and variations of the invention be covered by the claims, which are within the ordinary skill of the art, be within the spirit and scope of the present disclosure.
Claims (9)
1. A dyeing and finishing process for a cellulose-containing fabric, which is characterized by comprising the following steps of: the dyeing and finishing process sequentially comprises pretreatment, primary desizing, secondary desizing and a subsequent processing process, a biological enzyme polishing process is further included between the primary desizing and the secondary desizing,
The pretreatment comprises the following steps: sizing warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving the fabric, wherein the sizing agent used in the sizing process comprises sizing agent A and sizing agent B, wherein the sizing agent A is modified starch slurry or polyvinyl alcohol slurry with the number average molecular weight of 250-750, the alcoholysis degree of polyvinyl alcohol in the polyvinyl alcohol slurry is 90-95% mol/mol, and the sizing agent B is starch slurry with the number average molecular weight of 760-3000;
In the primary desizing process, the desizing rate is controlled to be 40% -50%;
The bio-enzyme polishing process includes: carrying out biological enzyme polishing treatment on the pretreated and primary desized fabric by adopting biological enzyme, and washing with water at the temperature of 82-89 ℃; the biological enzyme is cellulase.
2. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the sizing process, the mass ratio of the sizing agent A to the sizing agent B is 0.5-3: 1, a step of;
And/or, in the sizing process, the temperature during sizing is 95-98 ℃;
and/or, in the sizing process, the speed of the vehicle is 500-700 r/min.
3. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: and desizing the fabric obtained after pretreatment for one time by using amylase.
4. A dyeing and finishing process as claimed in claim 3, wherein: the concentration of the amylase is 11-14 g/L;
and/or the temperature of the primary desizing is 65-85 ℃.
5. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: the working solution used in the biological enzyme polishing treatment process comprises a penetrating agent, wherein the penetrating agent is fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether.
6. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 5, characterized in that: the weight ratio of the cellulase to the fabric is 1-4.8%;
And/or the concentration of the fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether in the working solution is 1.0-4.3 g/L;
and/or the pH value of the working solution is 4.5-5.5;
and/or, in the biological enzyme polishing treatment process, the bath ratio of the fabric to the working solution is 1: 9-30;
And/or, in the biological enzyme polishing treatment process, the temperature of the biological enzyme polishing treatment is 47-70 ℃, and the time of the biological enzyme polishing treatment is 35-80 min.
7. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: and (3) adopting sodium hydroxide solution to perform secondary desizing and secondary water washing on the fabric subjected to the biological enzyme polishing process.
8. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 7, characterized in that: the concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution is 5-10 g/L;
and/or the temperature of the water washing is 80-85 ℃, and the times of the water washing are 3-5 times.
9. A cellulose-containing fabric produced by the dyeing and finishing process according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
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CN111058213A (en) * | 2020-01-10 | 2020-04-24 | 南通联发天翔印染有限公司 | Dyeing and finishing process of G100 tencel and interwoven fabric of G100 tencel and cotton |
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