CN116687780A

CN116687780A - Polypeptide-containing targeted osmotic composition and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN116687780A
Application number: CN202310879082.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 蒋昕楠; 冯春波; 陈惟妙
Original assignee: Shanghai Jahwa United Co Ltd
Current assignee: Shanghai Jahwa United Co Ltd
Priority date: 2023-07-18
Filing date: 2023-07-18
Publication date: 2023-09-05

Abstract

The invention discloses a targeting osmotic composition containing polypeptide, which comprises 1-20 wt% of phospholipid and 0.01-1 wt% of polypeptide, wherein the targeting osmotic composition forms a phospholipid bilayer capsule structure, long-chain alkyl of the polypeptide is inserted into the phospholipid structure, and the exposed part of the polypeptide presents positive charges. The polypeptide is selected from the group consisting of: palmitoyl dipeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl hexapeptide-6, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, or combinations thereof.

Description

Polypeptide-containing targeted osmotic composition and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a targeted permeation composition and application thereof in cosmetics.

Background

Skin wrinkles are caused by a combination of endogenous and exogenous factors. Wherein exogenous factors include ultraviolet radiation, smoke, and harmful chemicals, etc., which directly damage DNA of skin cells and collagen, elastin or mucopolysaccharide molecules of extracellular matrix by Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated by contact with skin, thinning skin, damaging basal membranes of epidermis and dermis, reducing cell number and blood supply vessel number, resulting in generation of skin wrinkles; endogenous factors are due to the continuous decrease of moisturizing factors in the epidermis stratum corneum, decrease of skin hydration ability, simultaneously decrease of concentration of proteoglycan and hyaluronic acid in the skin, decrease of moisture in the dermis layer of the skin, decrease of dermal fibroblast activity, decrease of collagen synthesis ability, leading to dryness of the skin, weakening of skin elasticity, and finally generation of wrinkles with age.

Peptides are fragments of proteins, with a structure between amino acids and proteins. The amino group of one amino acid can be condensed with the carboxyl group of another amino acid to form a peptide, and the amide group formed is called a peptide bond in protein chemistry. The compound usually formed by dehydration condensation of two amino acid molecules is called dipeptide, the compound formed by condensation of three amino acids is called tripeptide, and the following steps are as follows: tetrapeptides, pentapeptides, and the like. The peptide has special physiological activity, can up-regulate cell growth factor, stimulate angiogenesis, growth of granulation tissue and synthesis of collagen, and can substantially improve a series of problems of skin.

Liposomes are deep-scale microcapsules, generally referred to as bilayer membrane spherical vesicles composed of phospholipids, in which hydrophilic, lipophilic or amphiphilic substances can be entrapped. The liposome main wall material phospholipid is one of the components of the biological membrane, has good biocompatibility, no immunosuppression effect, high safety and low toxicity. The particle size of the nanoliposome is in the nanoscale range, and the nanoliposome has strong capability of penetrating physiological tissue barriers. The liposome can penetrate skin in cosmetics, can control active ingredient to be released slowly and be absorbed by human body, and can permanently play a role in local maintenance, promote active ingredient distribution in tissues, provide bioavailability, and reduce or eliminate chemical permeation enhancer.

Polypeptide liposomes in the prior art are generally prepared by dissolving polypeptide in aqueous solution and encapsulating the polypeptide in liposomes. During percutaneous absorption, the encapsulated component is delivered deep into the skin by virtue of the lipophilicity of the liposome, and the encapsulated component exudes to the skin cells as the liposome vesicles burst. For example, the polypeptide liposome described in chinese patent CN106726668A, the active substance is mixed with phospholipid in aqueous solution to prepare polypeptide liposome, and the active substance is delivered to deep skin layer by the osmotic ability of the liposome. For another example, chinese patent CN113576939a also encapsulates a variety of polypeptides and other active ingredients with liposomes. The problem with this approach is that the polypeptide is easily broken down in water and the liposome structure is easily broken down on the stratum corneum cell wall, resulting in premature release of the active.

In addition, in the medical field, there are methods of modifying a polypeptide to a lipid wall material to increase the stability of a liposome and to exhibit characteristics of the polypeptide, such as targeting property and mold penetration property. For example, chinese patent CN 114306649A describes targeting peptide modified liposomes for atherosclerosis. For another example, chinese patent CN 112656703A uses palmitoyl polypeptide to modify liposome, and the polypeptide modified flexible liposome is obtained. This method is usually carried out by dissolving phospholipids and polypeptides together in a toxic organic solvent and then preparing liposomes. The use of organic solvents cannot be avoided and cannot be used in the cosmetic field.

The invention innovatively avoids the use of toxic and harmful organic solvents to modify polypeptides to the structural surface of the targeted osmotic composition to form the targeted osmotic composition. Meets the material regulation in the cosmetic field and has the excellent performance of liposome in the medical field.

Disclosure of Invention

In one aspect, the invention provides a polypeptide-containing targeted osmotic composition comprising:

1-20 wt% of a phospholipid;

0.01-1% by weight of a long chain alkyl group containing polypeptide and a polyol.

In a preferred embodiment, the particle size of the targeted permeation composition is 60-350nm.

In a preferred embodiment, the phospholipid is one or a combination of two or more of a soybean-derived phospholipid, a yolk-derived phospholipid or a hydrogenated phospholipid thereof, preferably hydrogenated lecithin and/or soybean lecithin.

In a preferred embodiment, the long chain alkyl polypeptide is C _10-20 The polypeptide with long chain alkyl has positive charge when the pH value is less than or equal to 6.5. Preferably, the C _10-20 The long chain alkyl polypeptide is selected from; palmitoyl dipeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl hexapeptide-6, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, or combinations thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyol is at least 50% by weight C _2-6 Is selected from the group consisting of: ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or combinations thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the targeted permeation composition further comprises 0.001 to 20 wt% of an active substance that is one or a combination of two or more of water-soluble, fat-soluble, alcohol-soluble, or amphiphilic.

In another aspect, the invention provides a method of preparing the targeted osmotic composition comprising:

(1) Mixing and heating a portion of the polyol, water-soluble active material, and homogenizing after dissolution so that the system is particle-free;

(2) Cooling after stirring, adding a part of polyalcohol, phospholipid, solubilizer and oil-soluble active substance, mixing,

(3) Adding water-soluble active substances and polyalcohol, and homogenizing;

(4) Continuing cooling, adding the rest of polyalcohol and polypeptide, and homogenizing to obtain the target osmotic composition containing polypeptide.

In a preferred embodiment, in step (1), the heating is carried out to a temperature of 60-80 ℃ with stirring.

In a preferred embodiment, in step (3), the heating is carried out to a temperature of 60-80 ℃ with stirring.

In yet another aspect, the present invention provides a skin external agent comprising the targeted permeation composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the skin external agent is selected from: face creams, lotions, gels, lotions, essences, face masks, eye creams, aerosol cleansing bubbles, sprays, body washes and facial washes.

Brief description of the drawings

FIG. 1 shows a schematic representation of the phospholipid bilayer capsule structure formed by a polypeptide modified targeted permeation composition, wherein long chain alkyl groups of the polypeptide are inserted into the phospholipid structure and an exposed portion of the polypeptide is positively charged.

Fig. 2 shows scanning electron microscope pictures of examples 1 to 8.

Fig. 3 shows the fluorescence pictures of examples 1 and 2, fluorescence microscope (Leica, DM 2500), magnification 20.

Detailed Description

The invention discloses a targeting osmotic composition with the same function as liposome. The polypeptide is modified on the structural surface of the targeting osmotic composition, and the polypeptide is embedded, so that the targeting osmotic composition meets the material regulation in the field of cosmetics and has the excellent performance of liposome in the field of medicines.

The polypeptide is modified, grafted with long chain alkyl radical of proper length, and has lipophilic alkyl radical, easy insertion into phospholipid gap and similar compatible mechanism, so that the polypeptide is fixed to the wall of the phospholipid bilayer via Van der Waals force and the amino acid part of the polypeptide is exposed outside the wall via hydrophilicity. In this process, if the carbon chain of the long-chain alkyl group is too short, the anchoring effect is weak, the polypeptide is easy to fall off, and if the carbon chain is too long, the alkyl group has too large molecular weight to be inserted into the phospholipid gap.

The exposed polypeptide groups are positively charged and negatively charged on the skin cell surface, and the polypeptide groups will pull the targeted osmotic composition towards the skin cells due to the attractive effect of the positive and negative charges. Therefore, the targeting osmotic composition provided by the invention has a certain targeting property, and the osmotic performance of the targeting osmotic composition is greatly promoted. After the targeted permeation composition reaches the dermal cells, the targeted permeation breaks, the alkyl modified polypeptide chains are free and the alkyl and polypeptide groups are broken, and the polypeptide functions within the cell. It acts on the synthesis of extracellular matrix by fibroblasts, promoting the production of small molecular substances such as type I, III, IV collagens, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans of the epidermis-dermis junction (DEJ). Improving the water content and water locking degree of skin, increasing the thickness of skin and reducing fine lines. The polypeptide may also accelerate the expression of a wound repair gene. Because the long-chain alkyl plays a role in covering the enzymolysis target point of the polypeptide (Wang, zhao Wei, xin Zhongshuai and the like, the research progress of fatty acid modification of protein polypeptide drugs [ J ], the pharmaceutical progress, 2015, 39 (9): 651-658), the polypeptide has a certain slow release period in vivo and longer effective time, thereby achieving the effect of improving the efficacy.

The targeting permeation microcapsule formed by the targeting composition modified by the polypeptide has enhanced structural stability. Moreover, due to the intercalation of the polypeptide, the charge effect of the positively charged polypeptide and negatively charged skin cells is utilized to increase the attractive force between the composition microcapsules and the cells, and the penetration of the targeted penetration can be enhanced by the transmembrane effect of the polypeptide. In addition, the polypeptide-containing targeted permeation composition of the present invention can further enhance the arrival of the polypeptide into the deep layer of the skin. Therefore, the invention can fully exert the synergistic effect of the targeting permeation and the polypeptide, and realize excellent effects of anti-wrinkle and tightening of skin. In addition, the targeted permeation composition of the present invention further comprises a water-soluble active ingredient, which is delivered deep into the skin.

Phospholipid

The polypeptide modified targeted permeation composition of the present invention comprises a phospholipid. The phospholipid may be selected from natural phospholipids, synthetic phospholipids, and combinations thereof. Lecithin is one of the phospholipids of natural origin. Lecithin is a mixture of egg yolk and soybean. It contains a variety of phospholipids including Phosphatidylcholine (PC), phosphatidylethanolamine (PE), and Phosphatidylinositol (PI). Natural phospholipids also include, for example, hydrogenated Soybean PC (HSPC), sphingomyelin, and Phosphatidylglycerol (PG).

Synthetic phospholipids include, but are not limited to, phosphocholine derivatives (e.g., DDPC, DLPC, DMPC, DPPC, DSPC, DOPC, POPC, DEPC), phosphoglycerol derivatives (e.g., DMPG, DPPG, DSPG, POPG), phosphatidic acid derivatives (e.g., DMPA, DPPA, DSPA), phosphoethanolamine derivatives (e.g., DMPE, DPPE, DSPE, DOPE), phosphoserine derivatives (e.g., DOPS), phospholipid PEG derivatives (e.g., mPEG-phospholipids, polyglycerol-phospholipids, functionalized phospholipids, and terminally activated phospholipids).

In some embodiments of the invention, the phospholipid is a hydrogenated phospholipid, in particular hydrogenated lecithin.

In some embodiments, the targeted permeation compositions of the present invention comprise about 1 to 20 wt%, preferably about 3 to 15 wt%, more preferably about 5 to 10 wt% phospholipids by weight. In a specific embodiment, the targeted permeation composition of the present invention comprises 8 wt.% phospholipids.

Polypeptides

The polypeptide modified targeted permeation composition of the present invention comprises a polypeptide. The polypeptides can help to improve the stability of the lipid bilayer and reduce the leakage problem of the targeted osmotic composition.

In some embodiments, the invention employs long chain alkyl polypeptides, such as C10-20 long chain alkyl polypeptides. The polypeptide of the C10-20 long-chain alkyl has positive charge when the pH value is less than or equal to 6.5. In some embodiments, the polypeptide comprised in the targeted permeation compositions of the present invention is C _10-20 A long chain alkyl polypeptide selected from; palmitoyl dipeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl hexapeptide-6, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, palmitoyl oligopeptides, lipopeptides, or combinations thereof. The polypeptide contains long chain alkyl and is inlaid on the wall of the targeted osmotic compositionThe stability of the targeted osmotic composition is increased. And the tail end of the polypeptide contains a positive group, so that the skin-friendly performance of the targeted osmotic composition microcapsule is improved, the osmotic performance is improved, more effective components can reach the dermis, and the efficacy is improved. Therefore, the invention can fully exert the synergistic effect of the targeting osmotic composition and the polypeptide, and realize excellent anti-wrinkle and tightening effects.

In some embodiments, the targeted permeation compositions of the present invention comprise 0.01 to 1 wt% polypeptide. In a preferred embodiment, the targeted permeation composition of the present invention comprises 0.01 to 0.1 wt% polypeptide.

Active substances

The polypeptide modified targeted osmotic composition comprises one or more than two of water-soluble active substances, fat-soluble active substances, alcohol-soluble active substances or amphiphilic active substances. Preferably, the active substance is one or more of vitamins, amino acids, polypeptides, proteins, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecule and natural product extract.

In some embodiments, the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of an antioxidant and a free radical scavenger. Preferably, the active substance is one or more of vitamin C or a derivative thereof, vitamin a or a derivative thereof, folic acid or a derivative thereof, vitamin E or a derivative thereof, vitamin D or a derivative thereof, an amino acid, a carotenoid or a carotene, uric acid or a derivative thereof, an alpha-hydroxy acid, stilbene or a derivative thereof, tranexamic acid, tetramethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinate stearate, vitamin E acetate, vitamin B3, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, allantoin, paeoniflorin, asiaticoside, hyaluronic acid, bisabolol, betaine, sorbitol, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, erythritol, and hydrolyzed protein. Preferably, the active substance is one or more than two of ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, active vitamin D3, flavone, flavonoid, histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tranexamic acid, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, ergothioneine, chromanol, magnolol, magnolia oil, bakuchiol, rhamnose, D-panthenol, glabridin, tocopheryl nicotinate, isoquercetin, ethyldiiminomethyl guaiacin chloride, glycyrrhetinic acid stearate. Preferably, the active substance is one or more than two of ergothioneine, chromanol, magnolol, magnolia bark oil, bakuchiol, rhamnose, D-panthenol, glabridin, tocopherol nicotinate, isoquercetin, ethyldiiminomethyl guaiacum manganese chloride, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, retinol palmitate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and glycyrrhetinate stearate.

In some embodiments, the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of collagen polypeptides, sweat gland polypeptides, collagen, enzymes that promote free radical catabolism, cytokines that promote epidermal cell growth. Preferably, the enzyme that promotes free radical catabolism is superoxide dismutase and/or catalase. Preferably, the cytokine promoting the growth of the epidermal cells is an epidermal growth factor.

In some embodiments, the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of natural product extracts with skin care and health care functions. Preferably, the active substance is one or more than two of ginseng stem and leaf extract, ginseng seed extract, ginseng extract, bletilla striata extract, ampelopsis japonica extract, astragalus extract, rhizoma polygonati extract, medlar extract, peony extract, cistanche extract, black bean sprout extract, chickpea sprout extract, black sesame extract, black rice extract, aloe extract, seaweed extract, algae extract, saussurea involucrata extract, water lily extract, peach blossom extract, green tea extract, seaweed extract, almond extract, pearl hydrolysate, sweet osmanthus flower extract, turmeric root extract, lotus flower extract, chamomile extract, ganoderma lucidum extract, distiller's yeast fermentation related, plant fermentation related, legume fermentation related and fungus related. Preferably, the active substance is one or more of Ginseng radix extract, rhizoma Polygonati extract, and Margarita hydrolysate.

In some embodiments, the oil-soluble active is selected from: glycyrrhetinic Acid (GA), stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine glycyrrhizate (trade name Sepiwite) ^TM ) Retinoic acid, and combinations thereof.

The oil-soluble active substance content of the polypeptide-modified targeted permeation composition of the present invention is about 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably about 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to 5 wt%.

In some embodiments, the water-soluble active is selected from: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, or combinations thereof.

The content of water-soluble active substance in the polypeptide-modified targeted permeation composition of the present invention is about 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably about 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 to 10 wt%.

Polyhydric alcohol

The polypeptide modified targeted permeation composition of the present invention comprises a polyol. The targeted permeation compositions of the present invention are free of organic solvents.

In some embodiments, the invention employs C _2-6 Is a polyol of the formula (I). In a specific embodiment, the polyol is selected from: ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the targeted permeation compositions of the present invention comprise at least 50 wt%, at least 55 wt%, at least 60 wt%, at least 65 wt%, at least 70 wt% of a polyol. In a preferred embodiment, the targeted permeation composition of the present invention comprises 50 to 85 wt% polyol, preferably 50 to 75 wt% polyol.

Other ingredients

The targeted permeation compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise other ingredients such as, but not limited to: edge activators, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, and combinations thereof.

For example, the edge activator may be polyoxyethylene 40 hydrogenated castor oil. For example, the antioxidant may be selected from: vitamin E, vitamin E esters, vitamin C esters, and combinations thereof. In a specific embodiment, the antioxidant is vitamin E acetate.

In some embodiments, the targeted permeation compositions of the present invention comprise 0.01 to 1 wt% edge activator. In some embodiments, the targeted permeation compositions of the present invention comprise 0.01 to 1 wt% of an antioxidant.

Preparation method of polypeptide modified targeting osmotic composition

The invention provides a preparation method of a polypeptide modified targeting osmotic composition, which comprises the following steps:

(1) Mixing a part of the polyhydric alcohol and the water-soluble active substance, and homogenizing;

(2) Adding a part of polyalcohol, phospholipid, solubilizer and oil-soluble active substance, mixing, adding water-soluble active substance and polyalcohol, and homogenizing;

(3) Adding the rest of polyalcohol and polypeptide, homogenizing to obtain the polypeptide modified targeting osmotic composition.

In some embodiments, in step (1), heating is turned on under stirring conditions, e.g., to a temperature of 60-80 ℃, e.g., 62 ℃, 65 ℃, 68 ℃, 72 ℃, 75 ℃, 78 ℃, 80 ℃, or ranges formed ending in any two of the above. In some embodiments, in step (1), the stirring conditions are 200-400rpm. In some embodiments, in step (1), the homogenization time is from 5 to 10 minutes.

In some embodiments, in step (2), heating is turned on under agitation, e.g., to a temperature of 60-80 ℃, e.g., 62 ℃, 65 ℃, 68 ℃, 72 ℃, 75 ℃, 78 ℃, 80 ℃, or ranges formed ending in any two of the above. In some embodiments, in step (2), the stirring conditions are 200-400rpm. In some embodiments, in step (2), the homogenization time is from 5 to 10 minutes.

In some embodiments, step (3) is accomplished under stirring conditions, for example, 50-200rpm. In some embodiments, in step (3), the homogenization time is from 5 to 10 minutes.

The target osmotic composition prepared by the method is dispersed into water to form the target osmotic composition with the particle size in the nanometer range. For example, the size of the microcapsules of the targeted osmotic composition formed is 50-400nm, preferably 60-350nm. In a preferred embodiment, the targeted permeation composition of the present invention is dispersed into water to form microcapsules having a particle size ranging from 100 to 300 nm.

The solution stability of the targeted permeation composition prepared by the embodiment of the invention is better than that of common liposome. Second, the targeted osmotic composition solution prepared in the examples had more than three times the permeability of the normal liposomes. Moreover, most importantly, the targeted permeation composition solution prepared by the method is free of irritation to skin, and is very suitable for application in the field of cosmetics.

External preparation for skin

The targeted permeation composition of the present invention can be applied as an efficacy additive in skin external preparations.

In some embodiments, the skin external agent is selected from the group consisting of: face creams, lotions, gels, lotions, essences, face masks, eye creams, aerosols (cleansing bubbles), sprays, body washes and facial washes. Different amounts are added according to the different types of formulations.

The external skin preparation is a general concept of all ingredients commonly used outside the skin, and may be, for example, a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition may be basic cosmetic, facial makeup cosmetic, body cosmetic, hair care cosmetic, etc., and its dosage form is not particularly limited and may be reasonably selected according to different purposes. The cosmetic composition also contains various cosmetically acceptable medium or matrix excipients depending on dosage form and purpose.

The external preparation for skin contains a dermatologically acceptable carrier or vehicle (e.g., a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a cleanser, etc.). The person of ordinary skill in the art will be able to select a carrier that will dissolve or disperse these components at the concentrations described above, in accordance with common general knowledge in the art.

The person of ordinary skill in the art will be able to select suitable carriers, including, for example, water, alcohols, oils, etc., based on common general knowledge and their ability to dissolve or disperse in the active ingredient at a concentration most suitable for treatment.

The skin external preparation of the present invention may be in the form of a topical application product which can be externally applied to the skin and can be prepared by those ordinary techniques well known in the art. The carrier may take a variety of practical forms, such as creams, dressings, gels, lotions, ointments or liquids, including compositions for application and cleansing, and incorporating them into a carrier material such as a dry or wet spread, hydrogel matrix, or adhesive (or non-adhesive) patch by methods well known in the art. Preferably, the carrier is a gel or a moisturizing lotion, or an application in dry or wet form.

Typical carriers include emulsions comprising water and/or an alcohol and an emollient, wherein the emollient is, for example, a hydrocarbon oil and wax, silicone oil, hyaluronic acid, a vegetable, animal or marine fat or oil, a glyceride derivative, a fatty acid, or fatty acid ester or alcohol ether, lanolin and its derivatives, a polyol or ester, a wax ester, a sterol, a phospholipid, and the like, and typically also an emulsifier (nonionic, cationic or anionic), although some emollients themselves have emulsifying properties. In addition, these same components may be formulated into creams, gels, or solid sticks using different proportions of their components and/or by incorporating thickeners such as gums or other forms of hydrocolloids.

The skin external agent of the present invention may contain additional components commonly found in skin care compositions, such as emollients, skin conditioning agents, emulsifiers, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, chelating agents, and the like, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with the other components of the skin external agent and do not affect the effect of the targeted permeation composition of the present invention.

In some embodiments of the skin external preparation of the present invention, one or more preservatives may be used. Suitable preservatives include p-hydroxyacetophenone, alkyl C1-C4 p-hydroxybenzoates and phenoxyethanol. The preservative is used in an amount of about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one example of the skin external agent of the present invention, one or more antioxidants may be used. Suitable antioxidants include Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), ascorbyl palmitate (BHA), butylated hydroxyanisole, phenyl-alpha-naphthylamine, hydroquinone, propyl gallate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, vitamin E or derivatives of vitamin E, vitamin C and its derivatives, calcium pantothenate, green tea extracts and mixed polyphenols, and mixtures of the foregoing. The antioxidants are used in an amount ranging from about 0.02 to 0.5 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.002 to 0.1 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one example of the skin external agent of the present invention, one or more emollients may be used which act as lubricants to reduce flaking and improve the appearance of the skin by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in the stratum corneum. Typical emollients include fatty esters, fatty alcohols, mineral oils, polyether siloxane copolymers, and the like. Examples of suitable emollients include, without limitation, polypropylene glycol ("PPG") -15 stearyl ether, PPG-10 cetyl ether, steareth-10, oleth-8, PPG-4 lauryl ether, vitamin E acetate, lanolin, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate, cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, dimethylpolysiloxane, and combinations thereof. Cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate, cetostearyl alcohol, glycerol stearate, and combinations thereof are preferred. When used, the emollient is in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30 weight percent, preferably from about 1 to about 30 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one example of the skin external agent of the present invention, one or more moisturizers may be used. Humectants, also known as humectants, help to enhance the effectiveness of emollients, reduce flaking, stimulate removal of constituent scales and enhance skin feel. Polyols may be used as humectants including, but not limited to, glycerin, polyalkylene glycols, alkylene polyols and derivatives thereof, including butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1, 3-dibutylene glycol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerin, propoxylated glycerin and combinations thereof. When used, the humectant is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 1 to about 15 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one example of the skin external agent of the present invention, one or more emulsifying agents may be used. The emulsifier may be used in an effective stabilizing amount. Preferably, the emulsifier is used in an amount of about 1.0 to about 10.0 wt%, more preferably about 3.0 to about 6.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. Any emulsifier that is compatible with the components of the composition may be used. Suitable emulsifiers include stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, lecithin, stearyl alcohol, steareth-2, steareth-20, acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymers, and combinations thereof.

In one example of the skin external agent of the present invention, one or more pH adjusting agents may be used. The pH adjuster useful in the skin external preparation of the present invention includes tromethamine. When used, the pH adjustor is used in an amount of about 0.1 to about 2 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 1 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the skin external preparation comprises acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, glycerol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, glycerol stearate and lecithin, cetyl/stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate, tromethamine or combinations thereof.

In some embodiments of the invention, the targeted permeation composition is used in an amount of 0.026 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.026 to 0.96 wt.%, more preferably 0.052 to 0.74 wt.%, and most preferably 0.1 to 0.48 wt.% of the skin external preparation.

Examples

The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific examples. It is to be understood that these examples are illustrative of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Appropriate modifications and variations of the invention may be made by those skilled in the art, and are within the scope of the invention.

Percentages and parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. In addition, any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the methods of the present invention. The preferred methods and materials described herein are presented for illustrative purposes only.

Experimental materials

And (3) a water bath kettle: shanghai-Heng science instruments Co., ltd; HWS-28;

homogenizing machine: japanese Primix; robomizer;

ultrasonic cleaner: cleaning equipment limited company in Shenzhen city; JP-060S;

an agitator: IKA; cantilever stirrer nano 7.5digital;

penetrometer: shanghai Jade research science instruments Co., ltd; TK series transdermal diffusion tester;

zeta potential: malvern panoraceae; zetasizer Advance series;

high-pressure homogenizer: GEA Niro Soavi, panda PLUS 2000;

scanning electron microscope: hitachi, flexSEM 1000II.

Example 1

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.01 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-1, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 2

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-1, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 3

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.01 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 4

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 5

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.01 g of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 6

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 7

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.01 g of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 8

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 9

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. Heating to 60-80 ℃ after uniform mixing, homogenizing for 5-10 minutes, keeping the temperature and stirring for 5-20 minutes, stirring and cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, cooling to 40-50 ℃, adding a mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of soybean lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice, stirring uniformly, continuously adding a mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol, and continuously homogenizing for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-1, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 10

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃, homogenized for 5-10 minutes, stirred for 5-20 minutes after heat preservation, stirred and cooled, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after the mixture is cooled to 40-50 ℃, a mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of egg yolk lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, and after being uniformly stirred, a mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-1, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 11

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl dipeptide-7, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 12

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Example 13

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Comparative example 1

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, mixing, heating to 80 deg.C, homogenizing again for 5-10 min, cooling to 40-55deg.C, adding 10 g of glycerol and 3 g of butanediol, homogenizing again for 5-10 min, stirring, cooling, maintaining stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature.

Comparative example 2

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of acetyl tripeptide-1, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Comparative example 3

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

Comparative example 4

Respectively weighing 37 g of glycerin, 7 g of butanediol and 8 g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, uniformly stirring, and keeping the stirring speed at 200-400rpm. After being uniformly mixed, the mixture is heated to 60-80 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes, after being stirred for 5-20 minutes by heat preservation, the stirring speed is kept at 50-200rpm, after being cooled to 40-50 ℃, the mixture of 20 g of butanediol, 8 g of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 g of RH40 and 1 g of oil-soluble licorice is added, after being uniformly stirred, the mixture of 2 g of nicotinamide and 10 g of butanediol is continuously added, and the homogenization is continued for 5-10 minutes. Homogenizing, mixing, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, cooling to 40-55 ℃, adding 10 g of glycerol, 3 g of butanediol and 0.1 g of carnosine, homogenizing again for 5-10 minutes, stirring, cooling, keeping the stirring speed at 50-200rpm, and cooling to room temperature for later use.

The main components and their contents in examples 1 to 13 and comparative examples 1 to 5 are summarized in the following Table 1.

TABLE 1

Table 1 (subsequent)

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Table 1 (subsequent)

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Comparative example 5: 0.03g of palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 0.2g of cholesterol, 3g of soybean lecithin and 0.2g of sodium cholate are taken in a rotary steaming container. Then 10ml of methanol was added and the dissolution was accelerated by sonication with the aid of hand shaking until the solution became a clear transparent yellow liquid. The organic solution was rotary evaporated at 40℃for 1h, leaving a pale yellow film on the bottle wall. The rotary steaming container is placed in a vacuum drying oven, the temperature is set to 25 ℃, the time is 1h, and the vacuum drying is carried out to remove trace methanol in the film. Taking 90ml of aqueous solution, adding 0.3g of Tween-20, mixing the two materials uniformly by ultrasonic treatment, then pouring the solution into a rotary steaming container, stirring for 0.5h under water bath at 45 ℃ to hydrate the film, and then carrying out ultrasonic treatment until the film on the bottle wall is completely peeled off. At this point a pale yellow emulsion was obtained. Homogenizing and circulating the obtained emulsion for 5 times under the condition of 800bar by using a high-pressure homogenizer, and finally obtaining the clear and transparent polypeptide modified targeting osmotic composition.

Comparative example 5 is a liposome preparation method commonly used in the industrial and pharmaceutical fields, using an organic solvent and some chemical reagents as raw materials, and using a high-pressure homogenizer. First, these raw materials are toxic and irritating, are difficult to mass produce in processes and equipment, and therefore cannot be applied to the preparation of cosmetic products. In addition, from the aspects of practicality and enlarged production, the preparation process of the application is characterized by simple operation and can be seen by adopting a normal pressure homogenizer. The application prepares a safe and efficient targeted osmotic composition product through the change of raw materials, equipment and process.

Test example 1: high-temperature stability investigation of targeting osmotic composition semi-finished product

Samples of examples 1-13 and comparative examples 1-5 were taken at 20 grams, filled into plastic bottles, and placed in a 48 ℃ oven. After 30 days, the sample was taken out and observed for morphology. The results are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2

Examples	9	10	11	12	13
						Color of	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color
Liquid exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation
						Surface state	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy

Comparative example	1	2	3	4	5
						Color of	Slightly brown in color	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color
Liquid exudation	With exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation
						Surface state	Slightly rough	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy

Conclusion: the examples incorporating the polypeptides were excellent in stability at high temperatures, did not exude liquid, and maintained smooth surfaces. Whereas the comparative example without the polypeptide is liable to be discolored at high temperature and has liquid exudation, the main reason is that the active substance in the system is not completely packed or detached from the package and then is deteriorated by oxidation and the solvent of the active substance exudes.

Test example 2: the zeta potential of the aqueous solution of the targeted osmotic composition was tested.

1 g of the samples of examples 1-13 and comparative examples 1-5 were taken in a beaker, and 99 g of deionized water was added. The beaker was placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The water surface of the ultrasonic cleaner is level with the water surface in the beaker, and the water temperature is kept at 45 ℃. After 15 minutes of sonication, stirring for 15 minutes with a magnetic stirrer, then repeating the sonication and stirring for a further 2-5 times until the solution is clear and transparent, free of floc. And (3) taking a prepared solution in the prepared solution, diluting the solution by 10 times, and then testing the diluted solution by using a zeta potentiometer to detect the zeta potential, PDI and particle size of the sample. The results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 Table 3

Examples	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
									Zeta potential	-54.11	-52.3	-53.8	-49.57	-54.8	-50.37	-55.1	-51.2
PDI	0.135	0.231	0.119	0.143	0.155	0.129	0.131	0.176
									Particle size/nm	238	141.2	283.1	135.7	201.4	114.2	315.2	197.3

Examples	9	10	11	12	13
						Zeta potential	-51.01	-49.93	-50.21	-50.31	-50.13
PDI	0.145	0.131	0.185	0.179	0.143
						Particle size/nm	132.1	141.2	145.2	141.2	151.2

Comparative example	1	2	3	4	5
						Zeta potential	-56.21	-48.3	-49.8	-49.57	-46.8
PDI	0.135	0.231	0.119	0.143	0.155
						Particle size/nm	322.3	141.2	133.1	135.7	102.4

Conclusion: as can be seen from a comparison of the comparative examples and examples, the composition to which the polypeptides are added can reduce the size of the nanoparticle, and various polypeptides are effective. From a comparison of examples 1 and 2,3 and 4,5 and 6,7 and 8, it can be seen that an increase in polypeptide concentration can significantly reduce the size of the nanospheres in the composition solution, demonstrating the stabilizing lifting effect of the addition of the polypeptide to the targeted composition.

Test example 3: high temperature stability investigation of aqueous solutions of targeting compositions

1 g of the samples of examples 1-13 and comparative examples 1-5 were taken in a beaker, and 99 g of deionized water was added. The beaker was placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The water surface of the ultrasonic cleaner is level with the water surface in the beaker, and the water temperature is kept at 45 ℃. After 15 minutes of sonication, stirring for 15 minutes with a magnetic stirrer, then repeating the sonication and stirring for a further 2-5 times until the solution is clear and transparent, free of floc. Then 20 g of the liquid in the beaker was taken out and put into a plastic bottle and placed in an oven at 48 ℃. After 30 days, the sample morphology was observed and analyzed by laser diffraction particle size analyzer. The results are shown in Table 4.

TABLE 4 Table 4

Examples	9	10	11	12	13
						Color of solution	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent
Floc of floc	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for
						Precipitation	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for

Comparative example	1	2	3	4	5
						Color of solution	Turbidity occurs	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent
Floc of floc	Has the following components	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for
						Precipitation	Has the following components	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for	Without any means for

Conclusion: the stability of the aqueous solution of the targeting composition to which the polypeptide is added is better. The solution did not appear cloudy or floc nor precipitated after being placed at high temperature. While targeting compositions without added polypeptides are prone to floc and have some precipitation. The method shows that the nano microcapsule is agglomerated in the system to form macroscopic particles, and has great influence on the product performance.

Test example 4: targeted composition aqueous solution permeability experiments

1 g of the samples of examples 1-13 and comparative examples 1-5 were taken in a beaker, and 99 g of deionized water was added. The beaker was placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The water surface of the ultrasonic cleaner is level with the water surface in the beaker, and the water temperature is kept at 45 ℃. After 15 minutes of sonication, stirring for 15 minutes with a magnetic stirrer, then repeating the sonication and stirring for a further 2-5 times until the solution is clear and transparent, free of floc.

Permeation testing was performed using a permeation diffusion instrument. The specific method comprises the following steps:

1. PBS buffer was prepared with a composition of 0.8% NaCl,0.349% Na ₂ HPO ₄ ·12H ₂ O，0.02％KCl，0.02％KH ₂ PO ₄ Diluting to 1L with deionized water for later use.

2. The pigskin is taken out of the refrigerator (-18 ℃) and thawed for 30-60 minutes at room temperature, and is rinsed with deionized water until no foreign matters exist.

3. The pigskin is short-called small blocks which are suitable for the size of a permeation pool, and is soaked in PBS buffer solution for 30-60 minutes. Simultaneously, the diffuser is started, and the preheating constant temperature is 32.6 DEG C

4. Placing the stirrer into a permeation tank, placing pigskin into the permeation tank, trimming the edge after being matched with a cover, and adding a clamp.

5. PBS buffer was added to the permeation cell until it contacted the pig skin and there was no foaming.

6. After the constant temperature is kept for 45 to 60 minutes, stirring is started at 440rpm

7. After about 1 hour, 0.1ml of the targeted permeation composition solution was dropped onto the pigskin.

After 8.24 hours, all PBS buffer was removed and the target concentration was measured.

The permeability results are shown in table 5.

TABLE 5

Conclusion: samples containing the polypeptides exhibit better penetration enhancing properties and allow more of the target substance to be transported through the skin to the deep layers. Because the terminal end of the polypeptide has a positive group, the polypeptide has stronger affinity with negatively charged skin. When the targeting composition nanoparticle contacts the skin, positively charged polypeptide groups will pull the composition to the cell surface by charge and then penetrate the skin cells by the composition's pattern-penetration, thereby reaching the next layer of cells. In this way, the composition can carry the active ingredients to permeate skin cells step by step, and finally, after reaching a deep layer, the composition can be decomposed by human body to release the active ingredients wrapped in the microcapsule and exert efficacy. And the polypeptide plays a role in transmitting signals in vivo, is easier to identify and penetrate by cells, and therefore has stronger skin penetration capability.

Test example 5: examination of low-temperature stability of semi-finished product of targeted osmotic composition

20 g of the samples of examples 1-8 and comparative examples 1-2 were taken, filled into plastic bottles and placed in an oven at-15 ℃. After 30 days, the sample was taken out and observed for morphology. The results are shown in Table 6.

TABLE 6

Comparative example	1	2	3	4	5
						Color of	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color	Does not change color
Liquid exudation	With exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation	No exudation
						Surface state	Slightly rough	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy	Smooth and glossy

Conclusion: low temperature stability is consistent with the trend of high temperature stability. The examples containing the polypeptide are excellent in stability and do not decompose when stored at low temperatures. Whereas compositions without polypeptide will have liquid exudation.

Test example 6: safety evaluation of aqueous solutions of targeted osmotic compositions

Examples 1 to 13 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were formulated as 10% aqueous solutions, and then skin irritation experiments were performed on the 10% aqueous solutions.

The experimental animals used adult, healthy, skin-friendly white rabbits, both female and male, but the female animals should be ungreeled and unexplained. At least 4 experimental animals are used. The experimental animals are kept in a single cage, and the animals are adapted for at least 3d in the environment of the experimental animal house before the experiment. The experimental animal and the experimental animal house meet the national corresponding regulations. The conventional feed is selected, and the drinking water is not limited.

About 24 hours before the test, the hairs on both sides of the back spine of the experimental animal are cut off, the epidermis can not be damaged, and the hair removing range is about 3cm multiplied by 3cm on the left and right sides. About 0.5mL (g) of the test object was applied directly to the skin, and then covered with two layers of gauze (2.5 cm. Times.2.5 cm) and one layer of cellophane or the like, and fixed with non-irritating adhesive tape and bandage. The other side skin served as a control. The application time was 4h using the blocking test. After the test is completed, the residual test substance is removed by warm water or a non-irritating solvent. Skin reactions at the smears were observed at 1, 24, 48 and 72 hours after removal of the test subjects, skin reactions were scored according to table 1, and comprehensive evaluation was performed on the average of the test animal scores, and skin irritation intensities were determined from the highest integrated average at each observation time point of 24, 48 and 72 hours. The average daily integral per animal was calculated as follows and the skin irritation intensity was determined in tables 4 and 5. Average score per animal per day = (sigma erythema and edema score/number of animals tested)/14

Skin irritation response scores are shown in table 7.

TABLE 7

The skin irritation intensity ratings are shown in table 8.

TABLE 8

Integral homogeneity	Strength of
		0～＜0.5	No irritation
0.5～＜2.0	Light irritation
		2.0～＜6.0	Mid-irritation
6.0～8.0	Strong irritation

The safety evaluation results are shown in table 9.

TABLE 9

Examples	9	10	11	12	13
						Irritation (irritation)	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation

Comparative example	1	2	3	4	5
						Irritation (irritation)	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	Light irritation

The samples of examples 1-13 were all non-irritating, whereas the comparative example 5 was slightly irritating, and the raw materials of comparative example 5 did not meet cosmetic regulations. Thus even though the targeted osmotic composition solution stability and particle size data of comparative example 5 are better than those of the examples, the practicality is not as good as the examples.

Test example 7: scanning electron microscope observation of aqueous solution of targeting composition

Sample 1 g of examples 1-8 was taken in a beaker and 99 g deionized water was added. The beaker was placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The water surface of the ultrasonic cleaner is level with the water surface in the beaker, and the water temperature is kept at 45 ℃. After 15 minutes of sonication, stirring for 15 minutes with a magnetic stirrer, then repeating the sonication and stirring for a further 2-5 times until the solution is clear and transparent, free of floc.

And then observing the morphology by using a scanning electron microscope. Fig. 2 shows scanning electron microscope pictures of examples 1 to 8.

As can be seen from the electron micrograph, examples 2, 4, 6, 8 are smaller in size than examples 1,3,5,7, indicating that the addition of the polypeptide can reduce the size of the microcapsules in the aqueous solution of the targeting composition, thereby increasing the permeation performance and stability.

Test example 8: targeted composition solution permeation fluorescence photography

The samples of examples 1 and 2 were subjected to fluorescence photography using the Epikutis model from Shaanxi Boxi biotechnology Co.

Instrument model:

CO2 incubator (Thermo, 150I), ultra clean bench (Suzhou Antai, SW-CJ-1F), fluorescence microscope (Leica, DM 2500).

The test steps are as follows:

1) According to the test group, the model was transferred to a 6-well plate (0.9 mL of model culture broth was added in advance), and the 6-well plate was labeled with the test group number.

2) And (3) adding 25 mu L of a sample to the surface of the model, clamping nylon films by forceps to cover the surface of each model, uniformly distributing the sample on the surface of the model, and placing the model in a CO2 incubator (37 ℃ and 5% CO 2) for incubation for 2h, 6h and 12h respectively.

3) And (3) penetration detection: after the incubation, the model was fixed and frozen, and the sections were photographed (20-fold magnification)

Fig. 3 shows the fluorescence pictures of examples 1 and 2. As can be seen from the fluorescence photograph, after the fluorescent substance is carried on the aqueous solution of the targeting composition, the fluorescent substance can penetrate into the deep layer of the skin. And the sample of example 2 has less surface fluorescence residue and thus higher permeation efficiency.

Application example

The preparations of examples 1 to 13 were used for the preparation of external preparations for skin. The external preparation for skin is preferably a cosmetic composition such as a lotion, essence, cream, etc. The weight percentage of the preparation in the external skin preparation is 0.001% -5% (w/w). Preferably 0.01% -1.5% (w/w) by weight. More preferably 0.015% to 1% (w/w). Most preferably 0.8% -1.2% (w/w).

The following are specific examples of applications of the preparations of examples in skin external preparations, and formulations and preparation methods of these dosage forms. In the following tables, "-" indicates no addition.

Application example 1: preparation of face cream

Application example 2: preparation of the emulsion

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Application example 3: preparation of jelly

Application example 4: preparation of toning lotion

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Application example 5: preparation of essence

Application example 6: preparation of facial mask

Application example 7: preparation of eye cream

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Application example 8: preparation of aerosol (cleaning foam)

Application example 9: preparation of the spray

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Application example 10: preparation of bath lotion

Application example 11: preparation of facial cleanser

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Claims

1. A polypeptide-containing targeted osmotic composition comprising:

1-20 wt% of a phospholipid;

0.01-1 wt% of a long chain alkyl group-containing polypeptide; and

a polyhydric alcohol is used in the preparation of a polyol,

the targeted permeation composition forms a phospholipid bilayer capsule structure, long chain alkyl groups of the polypeptide are inserted into the phospholipid structure, and an exposed part of the polypeptide is positively charged.

2. The targeted osmotic composition of claim 1, wherein the targeted osmotic composition has a particle size of 60-350nm.

3. The targeted permeation composition of claim 1, wherein the phospholipid is one or a combination of two or more of a soy-derived phospholipid, a yolk-derived phospholipid or a hydrogenated phospholipid thereof, preferably hydrogenated lecithin and/or soy lecithin.

4. The targeted permeation composition of claim 1, wherein the long chain alkyl polypeptide is C _10-20 Long chain alkyl polypeptides.

5. The targeted permeation composition of claim 4, wherein the C _10-20 Long-chain alkyl polypeptide with pH less than or equal to 6.5Positive charges.

6. The targeted permeation composition of claim 5, wherein the C _10-20 The long chain alkyl polypeptide is selected from; palmitoyl dipeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl hexapeptide-6, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, or combinations thereof.

7. The targeted permeation composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol is at least 50 wt% C _2-6 Is a polyol of the formula (I).

8. The targeted permeation composition of claim 7, wherein the C _2-6 Is selected from the group consisting of: ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or combinations thereof.

9. The targeted osmotic composition of claim 1, wherein the targeted osmotic composition further comprises 0.001 to 20 wt% active.

10. The targeted osmotic composition of claim 9, wherein the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of water-soluble, fat-soluble, alcohol-soluble, or amphiphilic;

preferably, the active substance is one or more of vitamins, amino acids, polypeptides, proteins, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecule and natural product extract.

11. The targeted osmotic composition of claim 9, wherein the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of an antioxidant and a free radical scavenger;

preferably, the active substance is one or more of vitamin C or a derivative thereof, vitamin a or a derivative thereof, folic acid or a derivative thereof, vitamin E or a derivative thereof, vitamin D or a derivative thereof, an amino acid, a carotenoid or a carotene, uric acid or a derivative thereof, an alpha-hydroxy acid, stilbene or a derivative thereof, tranexamic acid, tetramethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinate stearate, vitamin E acetate, vitamin B3, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, allantoin, paeoniflorin, asiaticoside, hyaluronic acid, bisabolol, betaine, sorbitol, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, erythritol, and hydrolyzed protein;

Preferably, the active substance is one or more than two of ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, active vitamin D3, flavone, flavonoid, histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tranexamic acid, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, ergothioneine, chromanol, magnolol, magnolia oil, bakuchiol, rhamnose, D-panthenol, glabridin, tocopheryl nicotinate, isoquercetin, ethyldiiminomethyl guaiacyl manganese chloride, and glycyrrhetinic acid stearate;

preferably, the active substance is one or more than two of ergothioneine, chromanol, magnolol, magnolia bark oil, bakuchiol, rhamnose, D-panthenol, glabridin, tocopherol nicotinate, isoquercetin, ethyldiiminomethyl guaiacum manganese chloride, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, retinol palmitate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and glycyrrhetinate stearate.

12. The targeted permeation composition of claim 9, wherein the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of a collagen polypeptide, a sweat gland polypeptide, collagen, an enzyme that promotes free radical catabolism, a cytokine that promotes epidermal cell growth;

Preferably, the enzyme that promotes free radical catabolism is superoxide dismutase and/or catalase;

preferably, the cytokine promoting the growth of the epidermal cells is an epidermal growth factor.

13. The targeted permeation composition of claim 9, wherein the active substance is one or a combination of two or more of natural product extracts having skin care and health functions;

preferably, the active substance is one or more than two of ginseng stem and leaf extract, ginseng seed extract, ginseng extract, bletilla striata extract, ampelopsis japonica extract, astragalus extract, rhizoma polygonati extract, medlar extract, peony extract, cistanche extract, black bean sprout extract, chickpea sprout extract, black sesame extract, black rice extract, aloe extract, seaweed extract, algae extract, saussurea involucrata extract, water lily extract, peach blossom extract, green tea extract, seaweed extract, almond extract, pearl hydrolysate, sweet osmanthus flower extract, turmeric root extract, lotus flower extract, chamomile extract, ganoderma lucidum extract, distiller's yeast fermentation related, plant fermentation related, legume fermentation related and fungus related;

Preferably, the active substance is one or more of Ginseng radix extract, rhizoma Polygonati extract, and Margarita hydrolysate.

14. A method of preparing the targeted osmotic composition of any one of claims 1-13, comprising:

(3) Adding water-soluble active substances and polyalcohol, and homogenizing;

15. The method of claim 14, wherein in step (1), the heating is performed to a temperature of 60-80 ℃ with stirring.

16. The method of claim 14, wherein in step (3), the heating is performed to a temperature of 60-80 ℃ with stirring.

17. A skin external comprising the targeted osmotic composition of any one of claims 1-13.

18. The external skin preparation according to claim 17, which is selected from the group consisting of: face creams, lotions, gels, lotions, essences, face masks, eye creams, aerosol cleansing bubbles, sprays, body washes and facial washes.