CN116602889A - Solid cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Solid cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116602889A CN116602889A CN202310534893.7A CN202310534893A CN116602889A CN 116602889 A CN116602889 A CN 116602889A CN 202310534893 A CN202310534893 A CN 202310534893A CN 116602889 A CN116602889 A CN 116602889A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- wax
- cosmetic composition
- solid cosmetic
- matte
- eye shadow
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
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- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
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- 150000002634 lipophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000012423 maintenance Methods 0.000 description 1
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- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N meso ribitol Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011146 organic particle Substances 0.000 description 1
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- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- RLEBKHAOAHYZHT-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;pyridine-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=N1 RLEBKHAOAHYZHT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 238000010972 statistical evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000003696 stearoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AAAQKTZKLRYKHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N triphenylmethane Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1C(C=1C=CC=CC=1)C1=CC=CC=C1 AAAQKTZKLRYKHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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Abstract
The present application relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising, with respect to its total weight: 40-60 wt% of filler; 1wt% to 20wt% of a colorant; 25wt% to 40wt% of a non-volatile oil; 5wt% to 10wt% wax; 0.3wt% to 1wt% of preservative. The solid cosmetic composition is in the form of a powder. The application also relates to a corresponding cosmetic method.
Description
Technical Field
The present application relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular to a solid cosmetic composition which is wholly or partly in particulate form or also called powder.
Background
This section provides background information related to the present application, which does not necessarily constitute prior art.
Solid cosmetic compositions are generally used in the form of loose or pressed powders, in particular loose or compacted foundations, face powders or eye shadows being mentioned. The function of the above-mentioned powders is mainly to provide colour, matt and smoothness, and for powders especially for facial skin, the function is mainly to improve the wear resistance of the foundation or, in addition, if used alone, the function is mainly to provide coverage (foundation).
The existing solid cosmetic composition has the following technical problems:
1. existing solid cosmetic compositions in particular have a tendency to eliminate the effect of coverage during the day, and therefore users generally need make-up during the day;
2. for low levels of oily binders (i.e. non-volatile oils) of solid cosmetic compositions, the powder of the solid cosmetic composition has the disadvantage of being uncomfortable, since it is dry. This discomfort is caused by the fact that it is not possible to introduce a high percentage of non-volatile oil into the solid cosmetic composition if it is otherwise desired to maintain the loose powder aspect or the non-greasy aspect of the solid cosmetic composition. Whereas conventional methods do not allow incorporation of binders in amounts exceeding an average of about 10wt% into the powdered phase;
3. matte eye shadow refers to a class of solid cosmetic compositions that have little gloss and no shiny effect. The use of the matte eye shadow can make eyes look natural in visual effect, not abrupt, has soft effect and is suitable for daily commuting and dressing. The commercial matte eye shadow mainly takes dry powder as main material, and forms the matte eye shadow with different skin feel and color by powder raw materials such as filling agent, metal soap, colorant and the like and matching with some oily adhesive (namely non-volatile oil). The dry powder matt eye shadow has the defects of insufficient adhesive capability, poor adhesive property, difficult coloring, non-lasting daily use cosmetic effect and the like.
Accordingly, there is a need to provide a solid cosmetic composition that meets consumer expectations in terms of both sensory aspects (i.e., fit, degree of coloration, and softness to the touch) and in terms of use experience (i.e., no discomfort and long lasting make-up).
Description of the terms
The term "solid" characterizes the state of a composition at room temperature (25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. a composition having a high consistency, which maintains its shape during storage. In contrast to a "fluid" composition, the composition does not flow under its own weight.
The compositions of the present application are characterized by indentation measurements (compressive or penetration) to evaluate their hardness. The term "hardness" is understood to mean the maximum penetration force obtained during indentation measurements and is expressed in newtons.
The term "filler" is understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic, and insoluble in and dispersed in the composition medium, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
The term "pigment" is understood to mean any form of inorganic or organic particles, white or coloured, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and are intended to colour the composition.
The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, anhydrous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any anhydrous medium capable of evaporating less than one hour upon contact with the skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil which is liquid at room temperature.
The term "retroreflective particles" refers to such particles: the size, structure, and in particular the thickness of the layers forming the particles and the physical and chemical properties and surface state of the particles may be such that the particles reflect incident light. Where appropriate, the reflection may have an intensity sufficient to produce a macroscopic bright spot (i.e. a spot which is brighter than its environment by flashing) on the surface of the composition or mixture when the composition is applied to a support to be made up.
Disclosure of Invention
The present application aims at meeting this need. And unexpectedly, the present application provides solid cosmetic compositions having improved softness, make-up comfort or application comfort, and uniformity.
Thus, according to one aspect of the present application, the present application relates to a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a powder, in particular for the skin and/or eyes, comprising, based on the total weight of the solid cosmetic composition:
-from about 40wt% to about 60wt% of filler;
-from about 1wt% to about 20wt% of a colorant;
-from about 25wt% to about 40wt% of a non-volatile oil;
-from about 5wt% to about 10wt% wax;
-from about 0.3wt% to about 1wt% preservative.
Wherein the filler comprises one or more of talcum powder, mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, kaolin, diatomite, boron nitride, silica, magnesium stearate, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon-12, metal soaps, polymethyl silsesquioxane, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethyl silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer. Preferably, the metal soaps include magnesium stearate.
Wherein the non-volatile oil comprises one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, tri (ethylhexanoate) glycerol, cetyl dimethicone, diisostearyl malate, caprylic/capric triglyceride. The non-volatile oil in the present application also has the function of a binder. Due to the presence of about 3wt% to about 10wt% by weight of the non-volatile oil, the composition imparts significant comfort, pleasant feel, softness, skin-moisturizing properties to the user and better adheres to keratin materials, especially the skin.
Wherein the wax is a cosmetically acceptable wax, and the waxes considered in the context of the present application are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (25 ℃) which have a reversible solid/liquid state change and whose melting point is greater than or equal to 30 ℃, up to 200 ℃ and especially up to 120 ℃. In particular, waxes suitable for the present application may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ℃, in particular greater than or equal to 55 ℃. The wax of the present application also has the function of an adhesive.
Wherein the preservative comprises one or more of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octyl glycol, sodium benzoate and glycerol octanoate.
It has surprisingly been found that the use of a powdered phase (including fillers and colorants) in a solid cosmetic composition in combination with a binder (including waxes and non-volatile oils) improves the overall binding ability of the composition, and the composition remains intact during transport when subjected to violent shaking conditions without chipping and/or damage. Meanwhile, the adhesive agent composed of wax and non-volatile oil is beneficial to improving the coloring degree and the adhesive force between the composition and skin, the phenomena of powder flying and slag falling are avoided when the composition is used for making up, the composition is more attached to the skin, and the composition has lasting make-up effect.
Preferably, the composition is a foundation, eye shadow, blush or a product for the lips. Even more preferably, the composition is a matte eye shadow.
According to a further aspect, the present application relates to a method for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and the eye, in particular the skin of the eye, wherein the composition as defined above is applied to the keratin materials.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme of the application has at least the following beneficial effects:
1. the solid cosmetic composition has improved adhesive capacity, improved adhesive property and coloring degree, and lasting make-up effect;
2. the solid cosmetic composition provided by the application has the advantages that the dry feel during use is obviously reduced, a user can directly apply the solid cosmetic composition by hand, the cosmetic is easy to apply, and the solid cosmetic composition can be overlapped for many times;
3. the solid cosmetic composition of the application significantly improves its stability in retaining form.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram showing the appearance comparison of the matte eye shadow provided in example 1 and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 3.
Detailed Description
In order that the above objects, features and advantages of the application will be more clearly understood, a further description of the application will be rendered by reference to the appended drawings and examples. It should be noted that, without conflict, the embodiments of the present application and features in the embodiments may be combined with each other.
In the following description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the present application, however, the present application may be practiced otherwise than as described herein, and therefore the present application is not limited to the specific embodiments of the disclosure that follow.
The solid cosmetic composition according to the application is solid. More specifically, the composition is in the form of a loose powder or a pressed powder, the composition being free of water. The composition is preferably a pressed powder. Based on the total mass of the composition, the composition comprises:
-from about 40wt% to about 60wt% of filler;
-from about 1wt% to about 20wt% of a colorant;
-from about 25wt% to about 40wt% of a non-volatile oil;
-from about 5wt% to about 10wt% wax;
-from about 0.3wt% to about 1wt% preservative.
The non-volatile oils and waxes required according to the present application may form all or part of the binder of the composition. The non-volatile oil is a liquid fatty phase and the wax may be considered as a structuring agent of the liquid fatty phase.
Non-volatile oils that may be used in the composition according to the present application include one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, tri (ethylhexanoate) glycerol, cetyl dimethicone, diisostearyl malate, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the application comprises a combination of phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride and triglyceride tris (ethylhexanoate).
In addition to the above-mentioned non-volatile oils, other non-volatile oils suitable for the compositions of the present application may be chosen in particular from hydrocarbon-based non-volatile fluoro oils and/or hydrocarbon-based non-volatile silicone oils. Other non-volatile oils which may be mentioned in particular include hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin (e.g. squalane), hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin (e.g. vegetable stearoyl esters, triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol), these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the composition according to the application may comprise other non-volatile oils in an amount of from 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total mass of the composition.
The composition of the application may comprise less than 2wt%, or even less than 1wt% by weight of volatile oil, or be completely free of volatile oil, in addition to the non-volatile oil desired according to the application. The volatile oil may be a volatile oil, in particular selected from volatile silicone oils or volatile non-silicone oils. Contemplated useful volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane; useful volatile silicone oils contemplated include, but are not limited to, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, and decamethyl tetrasiloxane.
Waxes which can be used in the composition according to the application are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which are solid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof. Natural waxes are those of animal origin including, but not limited to, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin and shellac wax; and those of vegetable origin, including, but not limited to, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, bayberry wax, and sugarcane wax. Useful mineral waxes contemplated include, but are not limited to, ceresin, microcrystalline, montan, paraffin, microcrystalline, petroleum wax and petrolatum. Useful synthetic waxes contemplated include, but are not limited to, polyethylene glycols, fischer-Tropsch (FT) waxes, and polyolefin waxes.
From the viewpoint of reducing the amount of wax added while improving the adhesive ability of the composition, preferably, as the wax usable in the composition according to the present application, there may be mentioned, among others, a microcrystalline wax composed of a mixture of a carnauba wax and a polyethylene wax, a microcrystalline wax composed of a mixture of a carnauba wax and a synthetic wax, a microcrystalline wax of polyethylene and a polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, and a mixture thereof. For microcrystalline waxes, they are typically components of the powdered phase. Based on the non-volatile oil component, the wax comprises at least synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as products having CAS numbers 8001-75-0 (formula C 30 H 50 O 2 Melting point 67-72 deg.C).
Fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the present application include one or more of talc, mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, kaolin, diatomaceous earth, boron nitride, silica, magnesium stearate, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon-12, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polydimethylsiloxane/vinylpolydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, vinylpolydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane cross-linked polymer. Fillers are inorganic or organic in nature and they can impart cosmetic softness, matte effect and uniformity to the composition. The filler used in the composition according to the application may be lamellar, spherical, or an intermediate of any other shape between these defined shapes.
According to a specific embodiment, the composition of the application comprises at least a lamellar filler and a spherical filler. Advantageously, the composition of the application comprises at least a spherical filler capable of absorbing oil.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the filler of the composition according to the application is selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and magnesium stearate. Wherein talcum powder, mica and magnesium stearate are all lamellar particles; the silica is spherical particles; the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane spherical powder, preferably the average particle of the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer is no greater than 3 μm.
Advantageously, the filler may be present in the form of a hydrophobic coating. More specifically, they are fillers that are surface treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the fatty phase of the composition, in particular to make them have good wettability with the oil of the fatty phase.
The hydrophobic agent may be selected from silicones such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphate, perfluoroalkyl silane, perfluoroalkyl silazane, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups; amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearate titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The colorants which can be used in the composition according to the application are preferably chosen from pigments, nacres, reflective particles and mixtures thereof. The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic. Inorganic pigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxide (optionally surface-treated), zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and zinc oxide, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydroxide and ferric blue and also metal powders (for example aluminum powders and copper powders).
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the application comprises at least some iron oxide.
Advantageously, the pigments may be present in the form of a hydrophobic coating. More specifically, as previously described for the filler, the pigment is a pigment surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent. Examples of hydrophobically treated pigments that may be mentioned include iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate and titanium dioxide.
The organic pigment may be selected from carmine, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, and fluoran dyes, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made in particular of pigments of the trade name D & C certification.
According to various preferred embodiments, the composition according to the application comprises one or more of iron oxides, lakes, titanium dioxide, ultramarine, manganese violet.
The pulverulent phase according to the application may also comprise light-reflecting particles.
The composition according to the application must be suitable for topical application to the skin or lips, and therefore the composition according to the application may also comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with the skin and/or lips. Preferably, the medium is a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., it has a pleasant color, smell and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightening or redness) that tends to deter the consumer from using the composition.
The composition according to the application may comprise a polyol in liquid form at room temperature. Polyols suitable for use in the present application may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two hydroxyl functions, especially at least three hydroxyl functions, on the alkyl chain. Advantageously, the polyol may be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butanediol, isopentyl glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, polyglycerols (such as glycerol oligomers, such as diglycerol), and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the application, the polyol is glycerol. In addition, the composition according to the application may comprise a monohydric alcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol or isopropanol.
The composition according to the application may also comprise other components (adjuvants) commonly used in cosmetics, such as moisturizers, dyes (preferably liposoluble dyes), cosmetic actives, thickeners, surfactants, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.
Humectants or humectants that may be mentioned in particular include: sorbitol; polyhydric alcohols, such as, optionally, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof; glycerol and derivatives thereof; glycol ethers; urea and derivatives thereof; lactic acid; hyaluronic acid; AHA; BHA; sodium picolinate; xylitol; serine; sodium lactate; tetrahydropyrimidine and derivatives thereof; chitosan and derivatives thereof; collagen; a mixture of passion flower oil, almond oil, corn oil and rice bran oil; c-glycoside derivatives; musk rose oil; hyaluronic acid spheres; arginine, argan oil, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the application can be prepared according to the following scheme:
-introducing the material forming the powdery phase directly into a mixing kneader, typically for pasty and/or powdery products, according to the direction of the supplier;
-feeding wax and non-volatile oil into an emulsifying kettle while heating and stirring until a particle-free liquid mixture is formed;
-adding the liquid mixture to the powdery phase, stirring until the two phases are homogenized to obtain a powdery material;
the powder material obtained is weighed in small pans and then subjected to a pressing operation.
The powder according to the application can be applied to keratin materials, in particular skin and ocular skin, using a finger or advantageously using a particular applicator or a sponge suitable for handling and applying the powder according to the application.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the application is applied to the skin, in particular facial skin. In particular, the composition will be a foundation, blush or eye shadow.
According to another embodiment, the composition according to the application is applied to the skin of the eye, which matts the skin and makes the skin tone uniform. In particular, the composition will be a matte eye shadow.
In the examples shown below, the application is illustrated as a non-limiting illustration of the field of the application.
Unless otherwise indicated, the values given in the examples below are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The specific compositions of the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 1-6 are shown in table 1. The preparation method of the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 and the preparation method of the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 1-6 each include the following steps:
-putting phase a into a powdering pot, adjusting the stirring speed to 20000-30000 rpm, and dispersing for 5 seconds;
the phase B is put into a powdering pot and mixed with the dispersed phase A, and the stirring speed is 20000-30000 r/min, and the dispersion is carried out for 5 seconds;
-feeding phase C and phase D into an emulsifying kettle, heating to 75-80 ℃ and mixing with stirring until a homogeneous particle-free mixed liquid is obtained;
adding the mixed liquid into a powdering pot, stirring at 20000-30000 rpm for 8 seconds, opening a pot cover to scrape the bottom and wall, and dispersing at 20000-30000 rpm for 8 seconds to obtain a powder material;
the powder material obtained is pressed into shape after sieving and weighing.
The appearance pairs of the matte eye shadow provided in example 1 obtained after press molding and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 3 obtained after press molding are shown in fig. 1. As shown in fig. 1, the colorant content in the matte eye shadow provided in example 1 is the same as that in the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 3, but the appearance color saturation of the matte eye shadow provided in example 1 is higher and the smear is more colored. The addition of the wax can obviously improve the coloring degree of the matte eye shadow.
The matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 still achieved excellent adhesion with wax addition of not more than 10wt%, and significantly improved the fit and degree of coloring, and had long-lasting make-up effect. The dry feeling of the existing matte eye shadow product in use is avoided through the combination of the wax and the non-volatile oil, so that a user can directly paint the matte eye shadow by hands, make-up is easy, and the matte eye shadow can be overlapped for many times.
Unexpectedly, the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 has excellent stability under severe shaking and also excellent stability during storage over a wide range of temperatures at wax addition levels of no more than 10 wt%.
TABLE 1
The matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 1-3 were subjected to hardness testing. Hardness test a physical analyzer of type ta.xt2i equipped with a stainless steel spindle in the form of a bead of diameter 5mm was used, the hardness being measured at 20 ℃ by measuring the force (compressive or penetrating force) (F) over time during the following operations, in particular:
samples placed in a small tray, which should have a minimum thickness of 3mm and should not have any visible defects: the cracks, large fragments and crushed areas are subjected to constant temperature control at 20 ℃;
the spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.1mm/s and then penetrates into the sample to a penetration depth of 300 μm. When the spindle has penetrated into the sample to a depth of 300 μm, the spindle is removed at a speed of 0.1 mm/s. During the retraction of the spindle, the force (compression force) drops greatly until it becomes 0 after time t. During operation, the spindle moved back and forth over a period of 6 seconds.
The same composition was measured 9 times at different locations evenly distributed and spaced apart in the sample, or on different samples of the same composition. The average of these 9 measurements represents the hardness of the composition with a 95wt% confidence interval. The test results are: the matte eye shadow provided in example 1 had a hardness of 0.1 newton, the matte eye shadow provided in example 2 had a hardness of 0.3 newton, the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 1 had a hardness of 0.8 newton, the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 2 had a hardness of 0.05 newton, and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 3 had a hardness of 0.008 newton.
The matte eye shadow is typically applied to the ocular skin with the aid of a fingertip applicator, and when the hardness of the matte eye shadow is in the range of 0.1 newton to 0.3 newton, it is felt, unexpectedly, that the user has a pleasant feel to the non-powdery and oily character of the matte eye shadow, and the user feels a pleasant feel after application.
Unlike conventional matte eye shadow, the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 had a soft feel while adhering well to the fingertip applicators and proved to be easy to apply, and the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 can make the skin matte and reduce minute color defects, make the skin tone uniform, and leave a natural looking film on the eye skin.
The matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 2 and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 3 all exhibited cracking after multiple applications, and the adhesion was insufficient.
The matt eye shadow provided in comparative example 1 was firm to the touch, did not adhere well to the fingertip applicator, and proved not to be easy to apply makeup.
Shock testing was performed on the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 1-6. The vibration test uses a PSE-150A vibration instrument, the rotating speed range of the vibration instrument is 250 revolutions per minute, the test environment temperature is 25 ℃, the test time is 10 minutes, ten identical test samples are taken during the test and placed into the vibration instrument, the vibration instrument is used for simulating transportation test, the number of damaged test samples is counted after the test, and the stability of the maintenance form of the vibration instrument is judged through the proportion of the damaged test samples. The test results are shown in Table 2.
From comparison of the test results of examples 1-2 and comparative example 3 in Table 2, it can be determined that the absence of wax can make the matte eye shadow unable to maintain the morphological stability when it encounters vibration. From comparison of the test results of examples 1-2, comparative examples 1-2 and comparative examples 4-6 in Table 2, it can be judged that the absence of any one of the components phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride and triglyceride (ethylhexanoic acid) ester affects the stability of the matte eye shadow upon encountering shaking.
TABLE 2
Duty cycle of damaged sample | |
Example 1 | 0% |
Example 2 | 0% |
Comparative example 1 | 0% |
Comparative example 2 | 0% |
ComparisonExample 3 | 70% |
Comparative example 4 | 20% |
Comparative example 5 | 20% |
Comparative example 6 | 10% |
The matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 and the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 1-6 were tested for stability at different temperatures, specifically:
-filling the sample in a colorless transparent 30mL glass container and preserving at 25 ℃,45 ℃, -10 ℃,5 ℃ for 24 hours, respectively;
after 24 hours, the samples were observed for their behaviour;
after room temperature has been restored, the sample is applied to the back of the hand in small amounts and its performance is evaluated.
The test results are: the matte eye shadow powder provided in the embodiment 1-2 is uniform, no abnormality is confirmed, and the stability is good; the matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 2 is uniform in powder, no abnormality is confirmed, and stability is good; the powder of the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 2-3 had a larger particle size and a distinct agglomeration was pasty; the powder of the matte eye shadow provided in comparative examples 4 to 6 showed a small amount of blocking, sticking, and the like.
The use experience test is carried out on the matte eye shadow provided in the examples 1-2 and the matte eye shadow provided in the comparative examples 1-6, 80 people are selected from 20-40 year old female volunteers by a poll method, the group A-H is divided into 8 groups, 10 people are respectively applied with makeup to each group to test different matte eye shadows, and each group evaluates the flying powder, the slag falling degree, the fitting property, the softness degree and the makeup holding effect, wherein 5 is very excellent, 4 is excellent, 3 is general, 2 is poor, and 1 is very poor. The statistical evaluation results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
From the results shown in Table 3, it was confirmed that the matte eye shadow provided in examples 1-2 exhibited the best effects in terms of fly ash and residue removal, adherence, softness, and makeup retention. The matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 1 is difficult to take powder and make up due to overlarge hardness, and reduces the use experience. The matte eye shadow provided in comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 has a certain proportion of cracking phenomenon after being smeared for many times, and the use experience is reduced. Comparison of the results of examples 1-2 and comparative examples 4-6 shows that the absence of any of the components phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride and tri (ethylhexanoate) reduces the use experience of matte eye shadow.
The technical features of the above-described embodiments may be arbitrarily combined, and all possible combinations of the technical features in the above-described embodiments are not described for brevity of description, however, as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features, they should be considered as the scope of the description.
The above examples illustrate only a few embodiments of the application, which are described in detail and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the application. It should be noted that it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the application, which are all within the scope of the application. Accordingly, the scope of protection of the present application is to be determined by the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. A solid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, based on the total weight of the solid cosmetic composition:
40-60 wt% of filler;
1wt% to 20wt% of a colorant;
25wt% to 40wt% of a non-volatile oil;
5wt% to 10wt% wax;
0.3wt% to 1wt% of preservative.
2. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the non-volatile oil comprises one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, tri (ethylhexanoate), cetyl dimethicone, diisostearyl malate, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
3. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the non-volatile oil comprises a combination of phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and tri (ethylhexanoate).
4. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the wax comprises one or more of carnauba microcrystalline wax, synthetic microcrystalline wax, microcrystalline wax comprised of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax comprised of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, polyethylene microcrystalline wax, polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax.
5. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein the wax comprises a synthetic wax microcrystalline wax.
6. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the filler comprises one or more of talc, mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, kaolin, diatomaceous earth, boron nitride, silica, magnesium stearate, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon-12, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polydimethylsiloxane/vinylpolydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, vinylpolydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane crosslinked polymer.
7. The solid cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that said filler is selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and magnesium stearate.
8. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the preservative comprises one or more components of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octyl glycol, sodium benzoate, glycerol octanoate.
9. The solid cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the solid cosmetic composition is a matte eye shadow.
10. A method for making up a keratin material, in particular the skin or the eye, wherein a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the keratin material.
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