CN116549309A - Emulsifier composition capable of forming liquid crystal structure and application thereof - Google Patents
Emulsifier composition capable of forming liquid crystal structure and application thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116549309A CN116549309A CN202310642583.7A CN202310642583A CN116549309A CN 116549309 A CN116549309 A CN 116549309A CN 202310642583 A CN202310642583 A CN 202310642583A CN 116549309 A CN116549309 A CN 116549309A
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- emulsifier
- ceramide
- skin
- liquid crystal
- type
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 136
- 239000004973 liquid crystal related substance Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 240000007817 Olea europaea Species 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000007957 coemulsifier Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K Citrate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 abstract description 14
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 abstract description 13
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 8
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 46
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 23
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 22
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 17
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 17
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 15
- -1 arachidyl alcohol glucoside Chemical class 0.000 description 14
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- ZDMPPRRNRDBZPS-RWYGWLOXSA-N 1-O-dodecanoyl 5-O-(9-octylicosan-9-yl) (2S)-2-aminopentanedioate Chemical compound N[C@@H](CCC(=O)OC(CCCCCCCCCCC)(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCC)C(=O)OC(CCCCCCCCCCC)=O ZDMPPRRNRDBZPS-RWYGWLOXSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 11
- ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N N-oleoylphytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 10
- DHFUFHYLYSCIJY-WSGIOKLISA-N CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O DHFUFHYLYSCIJY-WSGIOKLISA-N 0.000 description 9
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 7
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 7
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 7
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- ANZUDYZHSVGBRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethylnonane-1,2,3-triol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)(CC)C(O)CO ANZUDYZHSVGBRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229960000735 docosanol Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 235000013399 edible fruits Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229940099549 polyglycerin-3 Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 235000002725 Olea europaea Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 238000009792 diffusion process Methods 0.000 description 5
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- 229940094541 polyglycerin-10 Drugs 0.000 description 5
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 240000004371 Panax ginseng Species 0.000 description 4
- HFJHNGKIVAKCIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Stearyl monoglyceridyl citrate Chemical compound OCC(O)CO.OC(=O)CC(O)(CC(O)=O)CC(O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O HFJHNGKIVAKCIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 240000006365 Vitis vinifera Species 0.000 description 4
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- 235000008434 ginseng Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229940049964 oleate Drugs 0.000 description 4
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000002504 physiological saline solution Substances 0.000 description 4
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 4
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 244000044822 Simmondsia californica Species 0.000 description 3
- 235000004433 Simmondsia californica Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 description 3
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229940071160 cocoate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000000706 filtrate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 description 3
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 description 3
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 description 2
- NKEQOUMMGPBKMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxy-2-[2-(2-hydroxy-3-octadecanoyloxypropoxy)-2-oxoethyl]butanedioic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)COC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O NKEQOUMMGPBKMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4'-hydroxyacetophenone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 229940106026 phenoxyisopropanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-ZQBYOMGUSA-N phenyl(114C)methanol Chemical compound O[14CH2]C1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-ZQBYOMGUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940033329 phytosphingosine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001495 poly(sodium acrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004584 polyacrylic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940110977 polyglycerin-4 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010241 potassium sorbate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004302 potassium sorbate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940069338 potassium sorbate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylparaben Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960003415 propylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021283 resveratrol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940016667 resveratrol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000004671 saturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 231100000241 scar Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 231100000444 skin lesion Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 206010040882 skin lesion Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000005808 skin problem Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- WXMKPNITSTVMEF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium benzoate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WXMKPNITSTVMEF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000010234 sodium benzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004299 sodium benzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003885 sodium benzoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001509 sodium citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K sodium citrate Chemical compound O.O.[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium disulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])(=O)=O HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940001584 sodium metabisulfite Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010262 sodium metabisulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium polyacrylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C=C NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010199 sorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004334 sorbic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940075582 sorbic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002920 sorbitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010356 sorbitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004274 stearic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000001384 succinic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001502 supplementing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009210 therapy by ultrasound Methods 0.000 description 1
- QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC(O)=O)C=C1O QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940074410 trehalose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000013976 turmeric Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000811 xylitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010447 xylitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960002675 xylitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N xylitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, which comprises a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier; the main emulsifier is a natural amphoteric surfactant and/or a natural nonionic surfactant; the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more of glucoside type emulsifier, glycerin fatty acid ester citrate type emulsifier, olive type emulsifier, phosphate type emulsifier, ceramide type emulsifier and lecithin type emulsifier, and the emulsifier composition is applied to skin care products, so that the quantity and stability of liquid crystals in the skin care products can be improved, the permeation of ceramide in skin is promoted, and the skin barrier repairing effect is improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of A61K8/68, in particular to an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure and application thereof.
Background
The human skin barrier may be characterized by a "brick wall structure" in which lipids and natural moisturizing factors are filled between stacked differentiated keratinocytes. The lipid forms various lamellar structure crystal domains in the stratum corneum, which is beneficial to control the water content of the stratum corneum and maintain the function of skin barrier. Ceramide is a major constituent of lipids in the skin barrier, and supplementing ceramide can repair the skin barrier, reduce the percutaneous water loss of the skin, improve the structure of the stratum corneum, and increase the lipid content in the stratum corneum.
The hydrophilic head group of the ceramide is far smaller than the hydrophobic tail chain, so that the solubility of the ceramide in the water phase and the oil phase is very low, and the application of the ceramide in a formula has great difficulty and limitation. The low solubility also results in the ceramide being difficult to penetrate the stratum corneum when applied directly to the skin surface and not functioning to repair the skin barrier.
The prior art generally promotes the penetration of ceramide in the stratum corneum by forming liposomes or microemulsions, for example, patent CN110339085A describes a composition containing ceramide liposome and its use in cosmetics, CN108272652a discloses a ceramide liposome and its preparation method and use. However, such treatments are relatively complex and also limit the use of ceramides in cosmetic formulations.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above problems, the present invention discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the main emulsifier to the auxiliary emulsifier is 1: (0.01-1).
In one embodiment, the primary emulsifier is a natural zwitterionic surfactant and/or a natural nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the natural nonionic surfactant is a polyglycerol-based emulsifier.
Further preferably, the polyglycerin-based emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 3 to 10, more preferably, the polyglycerin-based emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 8 to 10, and one or more of polyglycerin-10 stearate, polyglycerin-10 oleate, polyglycerin-10 dioleate, polyglycerin-10 laurate, polyglycerin-10 myristate, polyglycerin-3 cocoate, polyglycerin-4 caprate, polyglycerin-6 caprylate, polyglycerin-6 ricinoleate, polyglycerin-3 isostearate, glycerin-3 distearate, polyglycerin-3 diisostearate, polyglycerin-3 oleate, polyglycerin-3 polyricinoleate, and polyglycerin-3 methylglucdistearate are cited.
More preferably, the polyglycerin emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 10.
In one embodiment, the co-emulsifier is one or more of a glucoside type emulsifier, a glycerol fatty acid ester citrate type emulsifier, an olive type emulsifier, a phosphate type emulsifier, a ceramide type emulsifier, and a lecithin type emulsifier.
Examples of glucosides emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, one or more of arachidyl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside; preferably arachidyl alcohol glucoside.
The arachidyl alcohol glucoside can be a single component or can be a main component in a mixed emulsifier.
More preferably, the arachidyl glucoside is a main component in a mixed emulsifier, and the emulsifier further comprises an emulsion stabilizer; the emulsifier stabilizer is an alcohol, and more preferably, the alcohol is an alcohol containing carbon with the content of C20-C22; more preferred are arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and the desired mixed emulsifying agent containing arachidyl alcohol glucoside is Montanov 202 emulsifier.
As examples of glycerol fatty acid ester citrate emulsifiers, one or more of glycerol stearate citrate, glycerol oleate citrate, hydrogenated tallow glyceride citrate, glycerol cocoate/citrate/lactate are included, preferably glycerol stearate citrate.
Examples of olive ester emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, one or more of hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, olive oil decyl ester, hydrogenated olive oil decyl ester, cetostearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate.
Examples of phosphate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, one or more of octyl decyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, isodecyl phosphate.
As ceramide-like emulsifiers, one or more of bis-C24-28 hydroxyalkyl olive oleoyl glutamate, diethyl palmitoyl aspartate, diethyl acetoacetate, dimethyl dioctanoyl cystine, dimethyl diacetyl cystine, dioctyl dodecanol stearyl glutamate, dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, dihexyl decanol lauroyl glutamate, preferably dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, are included.
Examples of lecithin-based emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated lecithin, one or more of lecithin, preferably hydrogenated lecithin.
Preferably, the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of glucoside emulsifier, ceramide emulsifier and lecithin emulsifier, and the mass ratio is (3-8): (1-3): (2-4); or the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of glucoside emulsifier and ceramide emulsifier, and the mass ratio is (6-10): (1-4).
The ceramide can strengthen the natural protective lipid barrier of the skin, is composed of a phytosphingosine main chain acylated by saturated fatty acid (stearic acid), the volume of a hydrophilic head group of the ceramide is far smaller than that of a hydrophobic tail chain, so that the ceramide has very low solubility in a water phase and an oil phase, and has great difficulty and limitation in application in a formula, although the prior art can form a liquid crystal structure, the quantity and the shape of the ceramide are difficult to ensure, therefore, the development of an emulsifier combination capable of generating a stable liquid crystal structure is very important, the polyglycerol emulsifier is taken as a main emulsifier, and an auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of a glucoside emulsifier, a ceramide emulsifier and a lecithin emulsifier, so that the relatively uniform emulsified particle size and more liquid crystal quantity can be obtained, the formation of the liquid crystal structure is a slow process, the emulsifier performs irregular thermal motion in a system, and the molecules of the main emulsifier and the auxiliary emulsifier are gradually and orderly arranged at an oil-water interface in the cooling stirring process, so as to form a layered liquid crystal structure, the stability of the ceramide in the system is improved, and the long-range German force among liquid drops is reduced. Meanwhile, the liquid crystal structure formed by the emulsifier has a certain similarity with the lamellar structure of lipid in the skin barrier, so that the penetration of ceramide in the skin is promoted, the skin barrier repairing effect and the moisturizing effect are improved, and the skin feel is improved.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
Preferably, the emulsifier composition comprises 0.1-20% by weight of the total raw materials of the skin care product.
In one embodiment, the skin care product is prepared from a starting material comprising ceramide.
Preferably, the ceramide accounts for 0.001-5% of the total raw materials of the skin care product by weight.
The ceramide includes, but is not limited to, ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NS, ceramide NG, and ceramide AS.
In one embodiment, the skin care product is prepared from a raw material comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase.
The raw materials for preparation include one or more of emollient, antiseptic, pH regulator, humectant, thickener, ultraviolet absorbent, skin conditioner, coemulsifier, and active ingredient, and can be selected by those skilled in the art according to actual requirements.
As an example of an emollient such as a silicone oil, including but not limited to behenic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearic acid, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, jojoba esters, sucrose cocoate, cetyl ethyl caproate, isocetyl palmitate, glycerol ricinoleate, tocopheryl linoleate, and oils of natural origin such as avocado (PERSEA GRATISSIMA) oil, sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, apricot (PRUNUS ARMENIACA) kernel oil, argan tree (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, oil palm (ELAEIS GUINEENSIS) kernel oil one or more of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) shell oil, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed oil, sunflower (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) seed oil, jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil, babassu (ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA) seed oil, camellia (CAMELLIA JAPONICA) seed oil, macadamia nut (MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA) seed oil, wheat (Triticum VULGARE) germ oil, rosa CANINA (ROSA canna) fruit oil, wood Lu Xingguo palm (ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU) seed fat, aesculus hippocastanum (Shorea ROBUSTA) seed fat, butyrospermum parkii (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, carnauba (COPERNICIA CERIFERA) wax, candelilla (EUPHORBIA CERIFERA) wax, beeswax, lanolin.
Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, one or more of sodium benzoate, phenoxyisopropanol, benzalkonium chloride, lorammonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl chloroisothiazolinone, methyl isothiazolinone, methylparaben, isopropyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, isobutyl hydroxybenzoate, butyl hydroxybenzoate, chlorpheniramine, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, dehydroacetic acid, salicylic acid, octanoyl hydroxamic acid.
Examples of pH adjusting agents include, but are not limited to, one or more of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, succinic acid.
Examples of humectants include, but are not limited to, one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, erythritol, panthenol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, octylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, polyethylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol, polyacrylic acid, sodium polyglutamate, betaine, allantoin, trehalose, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone hydroxy acid, lactate ester, glycerol polyether, polysaccharides.
Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, one or more of sodium metabisulfite, pentaerythritol tetrakis (di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate), p-hydroxyacetophenone, butylated hydroxytoluene, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid.
Examples of thickeners include, but are not limited to, one or more of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, acrylic acid (ester) copolymers, xanthan gum, dehydrogenated xanthan gum, carbomers.
Examples of skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, squalane, hyaluronic acid, nicotinamide, pearl powder, arbutin, ferulic acid, vitamin C, salicylic acid, vitronectin, ergothioneine, resveratrol, polypeptides, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, plant extracts such as one or more of butter tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit extract, white willow (Salix ALBA) bark extract, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract, GINSENG (Panax GINSENG) extract, magnolia officinalis (MAGNOLIA OFFICINALIS) bark extract, turmeric (curcum LONGA) root extract, basil (BASILICUM) flower/leaf extract, purslane (PORTULACA OLERACEA) extract, sweet osmanthus flower (OSMANTHUS FRAGRANS) extract, millet (PANICUM MILIACEUM) seed extract, soapberry (SAPINDUS MUKOROSSI) fruit extract, GINSENG (PANAX GINSENG) root extract, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) leaf extract, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) bud extract, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit extract, fermentation products such as a dipivy yeast fermentation product filtrate, a thermophilic fungus (THERMUS THERMOPHILLUS) fermentation product filtrate, a galactomycelial fungus fermentation product filtrate, and a bacillus fermentation product.
The above components are not limited to those skilled in the art, and the raw materials may be selected and prepared according to actual conditions.
Advantageous effects
1. The polyglycerol type emulsifier is used as a main emulsifier, and the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of a glucoside type emulsifier, a ceramide type emulsifier and a lecithin type emulsifier, so that a relatively uniform emulsified particle size and a relatively large liquid crystal quantity can be obtained.
2. The polyglycerol emulsifier is used as a main emulsifier, and the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of glucoside emulsifier, ceramide emulsifier and lecithin emulsifier, so that the permeation of ceramide in skin is promoted.
3. The polyglycerol emulsifier is used as a main emulsifier, and the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of a glucoside emulsifier, a ceramide emulsifier and a lecithin emulsifier, so that the skin barrier repairing effect and the moisturizing effect are improved.
4. The emulsifier selected by the invention is a natural source, has small irritation, wide application range and can be used by sensitive muscles.
5. The emulsifier composition greatly improves the stability and permeability of the ceramide in the skin care product, and has good moisturizing, anti-allergy and repairing effects.
Drawings
FIG. 1 example 1 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 2 example 2 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 3 example 3 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 4 example 4 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 5 example 5 observation of an image of a liquid Crystal Structure under a polarizing microscope
Detailed Description
The polyglycerol-6 distearate was purchased from gatheremosse SAS.
The polyglycerol-10 stearate was purchased from Guangzhou Ruiyou Co.
The arachidyl alcohol glucoside was purchased from SEPPIC s.a.
The ceramide NP was purchased from LCS Biotech co., ltd.
Example 1
This example 1 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-6 distearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.5 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 part of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.05 part of glycerol stearate citrate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts polyglycerol-6 distearate, 0.5 parts arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 parts hydrogenated lecithin, 0.05 parts glycerol stearate citrate), 0.2 parts ceramide NP, 2.5 parts behenyl alcohol, 12 parts caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts glycerol, 0.5 parts ethylhexyl glycerol and phenoxyethanol were supplemented with water to 100 parts.
The preparation method comprises mixing water and glycerol to obtain water phase, and heating to 80deg.C; mixing oil (caprylic/capric triglyceride), main emulsifier and auxiliary emulsifier, and ceramide NP as oil phase, heating and stirring to 80deg.C and ensuring complete dissolution of the oil phase; homogenizing the water phase material, slowly adding the oil phase material into the water phase for emulsification, wherein the homogenizing time is 12min, and the homogenizing speed is 3000rpm; and adding preservative (ethylhexyl glycerol and phenoxyethanol) during cooling and stirring to obtain the final skin care product.
It should be noted that the above application example is mainly for verifying that the emulsifier combination of the present invention can obtain a relatively uniform emulsified particle size and a relatively large amount of liquid crystals, and verifying that the most simple component formulation for promoting penetration of ceramide is adopted, and in the practical application process, a person skilled in the art can select and adjust the raw materials according to practical situations.
Example 2
This example 2 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.1 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.05 part of glyceryl stearate citrate and 0.7 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.1 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.05 part of glyceryl stearate citrate, 0.7 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol, and water were added to make up to 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Example 3
This example 3 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.5 part of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.5 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol and water were added to supplement 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Example 4
This example 4 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.8 part of arachidyl glucoside and 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and the co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.8 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol and water were added to supplement 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Example 5
This example 5 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.5 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 part of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.5 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol and water were added to make up to 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Performance testing
1. Emulsion particle size and liquid crystal amount observations, liquid crystal structure observations of examples 1-5 were observed under a polarizing microscope, as shown in fig. 1-5.
Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 | |
Emulsified particle size | Non-uniformity of | Non-uniformity of | More uniform | Uniformity of | Uniformity of |
Quantity of liquid crystal | Less quantity | Less quantity | More than that | Multiple ones | Multiple ones |
Examples 3-5 a clear maltese cross, i.e. the presence of a liquid crystal structure, was observed under the microscope. Examples 4 and 5 have a more uniform emulsified particle size and a larger amount of liquid crystals.
2. Effect of emulsifier combinations on ceramide permeability
The transdermal capacity of ceramide in examples 1-5 to the skin of the back of the isolated suckling pigs was measured using the Franz Cell diffusion Cell method: 7.0mL of physiological saline was added to the receiving chamber as a receiving solution, and the matched magnet was placed in the receiving chamber. The skin of the sucking pig is fixed between a diffusion chamber and a receiving chamber of the Franz Cell diffusion Cell, the cuticle of the skin of the sucking pig faces the diffusion chamber, and the dermis layer faces the receiving chamber. After the suckling pig skin is fixed, 1.0mL of physiological saline is supplemented into the sampling tube by a liquid-transfering gun according to the liquid height of the sampling tube, so that the suckling pig skin and the receiving liquid are in close contact, and the total volume of the receiving liquid is 8.0mL. The Franz Cell diffusion Cell was fixed in a percutaneous absorption diffuser, an electromagnetic stirrer was turned on to stir at 300rpm, a constant temperature water bath of 32+ -1deg.C was maintained and no bubbling of the water bath interlayer was ensured. After the water bath temperature of the diffuser was constant, a sample was loaded, 400. Mu.L of the sample (examples 1-5) was sucked up by a pipette and added to the surface of the skin of the milk pig. 1.0mL of the receiving solution was withdrawn by connecting the Peek tube to the pipette at 8 hours and placed in the 2.0mL EP tube, and then 1.0mL of physiological saline solution was fed into the receiving chamber by the pipette, and samples were collected at 24 hours. After sample collection, physiological saline is sucked by a pipetting gun to repeatedly blow and clean the surface of the suckling pig skin for 3 times, and the constant volume is 2.0mL, which is an impermeable part on the skin. The pigskin is sheared and placed in a 2.0mL EP tube, the normal saline is fixed to 2.0mL, and the ultrasonic treatment is carried out for 30 minutes, so as to obtain the residual part in the pigskin. The content of ceramide NP in each sample was quantitatively analyzed by LCMS. The total amount of ceramide in 24 hours is the total subcutaneous permeation amount, the non-permeation part on the skin and the residual part in the skin, the recovery rate of ceramide is measured by the data, and the accuracy of the method is verified. Penetration percentage = 24 hours subcutaneous cumulative penetration/24 hours total ceramide 100%. The test results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Conclusion: the total amount of ceramide in 24 hours is about 0.672mg, which is consistent with the addition amount of ceramide in a sample, namely, the concentration of the ceramide measured by the Franz Cell infiltration pond method has better recovery rate, and the experimental method is effective. Wherein example 5 corresponds to the highest penetration percentage. Namely, the liquid crystal structure formed by the combination of the polyglycerol-10 stearate, the arachidyl glucoside, the hydrogenated lecithin and the dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate can promote the permeation of the ceramide NP in the skin and promote the protective effect on the skin barrier.
3. Skin care product containing emulsifier combination for protecting skin
Examples 1-5 were tested for their skin barrier repair effect. 60 healthy subjects between 18 and 35 years old are selected, the test area is self-explanatory and sensitive, skin problems such as skin lesions, inflammations, birthmarks and the like are avoided, glucocorticoid, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs and antihistamine drugs are not used within 2 months, and the skin barrier function is poor (TEWL is more than or equal to 15g/m < 2 > h) for non-lactating or gestational period, non-scar physique and non-atopy patients. All subjects were voluntarily enrolled and informed consent was signed prior to the test. The 60 subjects were randomized into 5 groups and the samples of examples 1-5 were used for 14 days, respectively, and skin care related parameters were measured before and at 14 days of use: the rate of change of skin moisture loss from 14 days before use was calculated using the skin moisture loss tester Tewameter to test the skin moisture loss TEWL value and the skin moisture content tester Corneometer to test the skin stratum corneum moisture content, and the results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Examples numbering | Rate of change of skin percutaneous water loss | Moisture content of stratum corneum |
1 | -17.62% | +13.54% |
2 | -19.55% | +19.37% |
3 | -18.46% | +19.84% |
4 | -19.71% | +23.26% |
5 | -25.45% | +24.01% |
Conclusion: examples 1-5 all reduce the percutaneous water loss rate of the skin, increase the water content of the stratum corneum and have certain repairing effect on the skin barrier. Of these, example 5 works best for reducing the rate of skin transdermal water loss and increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, and may be associated with the liquid crystal structure formed in combination with an emulsifier to promote penetration of the active into the skin barrier.
Claims (10)
1. An emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
2. The emulsifier composition of claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of main emulsifier to co-emulsifier is 1: (0.01-1).
3. An emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the primary emulsifier is a natural zwitterionic surfactant and/or a natural nonionic surfactant.
4. An emulsifier composition according to claim 3, wherein the natural nonionic surfactant is a polyglycerol-based emulsifier.
5. The emulsifier composition according to claim 4, wherein the polyglycerin emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 3-10, preferably 8-10.
6. The emulsifier composition of claim 1 wherein the co-emulsifier is one or more of a glucoside type emulsifier, a glycerol fatty acid ester citrate type emulsifier, an olive type emulsifier, a phosphate type emulsifier, a ceramide type emulsifier, and a lecithin type emulsifier.
7. Use of an emulsifier composition according to any one of claims 1-6 in a skin care product.
8. The use according to claim 7, wherein the emulsifier composition comprises 0.1-20% by weight of the total raw materials of the skin care product.
9. The use according to claim 8, wherein the skin care product is prepared from a material comprising ceramide.
10. The use according to claim 9, wherein the ceramide comprises 0.001-5% by weight of the total raw material of the skin care product.
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