CN116549309A - Emulsifier composition capable of forming liquid crystal structure and application thereof - Google Patents

Emulsifier composition capable of forming liquid crystal structure and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116549309A
CN116549309A CN202310642583.7A CN202310642583A CN116549309A CN 116549309 A CN116549309 A CN 116549309A CN 202310642583 A CN202310642583 A CN 202310642583A CN 116549309 A CN116549309 A CN 116549309A
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emulsifier
ceramide
skin
liquid crystal
type
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王戎
王静一
黄虎
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Shanghai Zhongyi Daily Chemical Co ltd
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Shanghai Zhongyi Daily Chemical Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295Liquid crystals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, which comprises a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier; the main emulsifier is a natural amphoteric surfactant and/or a natural nonionic surfactant; the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more of glucoside type emulsifier, glycerin fatty acid ester citrate type emulsifier, olive type emulsifier, phosphate type emulsifier, ceramide type emulsifier and lecithin type emulsifier, and the emulsifier composition is applied to skin care products, so that the quantity and stability of liquid crystals in the skin care products can be improved, the permeation of ceramide in skin is promoted, and the skin barrier repairing effect is improved.

Description

Emulsifier composition capable of forming liquid crystal structure and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of A61K8/68, in particular to an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure and application thereof.
Background
The human skin barrier may be characterized by a "brick wall structure" in which lipids and natural moisturizing factors are filled between stacked differentiated keratinocytes. The lipid forms various lamellar structure crystal domains in the stratum corneum, which is beneficial to control the water content of the stratum corneum and maintain the function of skin barrier. Ceramide is a major constituent of lipids in the skin barrier, and supplementing ceramide can repair the skin barrier, reduce the percutaneous water loss of the skin, improve the structure of the stratum corneum, and increase the lipid content in the stratum corneum.
The hydrophilic head group of the ceramide is far smaller than the hydrophobic tail chain, so that the solubility of the ceramide in the water phase and the oil phase is very low, and the application of the ceramide in a formula has great difficulty and limitation. The low solubility also results in the ceramide being difficult to penetrate the stratum corneum when applied directly to the skin surface and not functioning to repair the skin barrier.
The prior art generally promotes the penetration of ceramide in the stratum corneum by forming liposomes or microemulsions, for example, patent CN110339085A describes a composition containing ceramide liposome and its use in cosmetics, CN108272652a discloses a ceramide liposome and its preparation method and use. However, such treatments are relatively complex and also limit the use of ceramides in cosmetic formulations.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above problems, the present invention discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the main emulsifier to the auxiliary emulsifier is 1: (0.01-1).
In one embodiment, the primary emulsifier is a natural zwitterionic surfactant and/or a natural nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the natural nonionic surfactant is a polyglycerol-based emulsifier.
Further preferably, the polyglycerin-based emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 3 to 10, more preferably, the polyglycerin-based emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 8 to 10, and one or more of polyglycerin-10 stearate, polyglycerin-10 oleate, polyglycerin-10 dioleate, polyglycerin-10 laurate, polyglycerin-10 myristate, polyglycerin-3 cocoate, polyglycerin-4 caprate, polyglycerin-6 caprylate, polyglycerin-6 ricinoleate, polyglycerin-3 isostearate, glycerin-3 distearate, polyglycerin-3 diisostearate, polyglycerin-3 oleate, polyglycerin-3 polyricinoleate, and polyglycerin-3 methylglucdistearate are cited.
More preferably, the polyglycerin emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 10.
In one embodiment, the co-emulsifier is one or more of a glucoside type emulsifier, a glycerol fatty acid ester citrate type emulsifier, an olive type emulsifier, a phosphate type emulsifier, a ceramide type emulsifier, and a lecithin type emulsifier.
Examples of glucosides emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, one or more of arachidyl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside; preferably arachidyl alcohol glucoside.
The arachidyl alcohol glucoside can be a single component or can be a main component in a mixed emulsifier.
More preferably, the arachidyl glucoside is a main component in a mixed emulsifier, and the emulsifier further comprises an emulsion stabilizer; the emulsifier stabilizer is an alcohol, and more preferably, the alcohol is an alcohol containing carbon with the content of C20-C22; more preferred are arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and the desired mixed emulsifying agent containing arachidyl alcohol glucoside is Montanov 202 emulsifier.
As examples of glycerol fatty acid ester citrate emulsifiers, one or more of glycerol stearate citrate, glycerol oleate citrate, hydrogenated tallow glyceride citrate, glycerol cocoate/citrate/lactate are included, preferably glycerol stearate citrate.
Examples of olive ester emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, one or more of hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, olive oil decyl ester, hydrogenated olive oil decyl ester, cetostearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate.
Examples of phosphate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, one or more of octyl decyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, isodecyl phosphate.
As ceramide-like emulsifiers, one or more of bis-C24-28 hydroxyalkyl olive oleoyl glutamate, diethyl palmitoyl aspartate, diethyl acetoacetate, dimethyl dioctanoyl cystine, dimethyl diacetyl cystine, dioctyl dodecanol stearyl glutamate, dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, dihexyl decanol lauroyl glutamate, preferably dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, are included.
Examples of lecithin-based emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated lecithin, one or more of lecithin, preferably hydrogenated lecithin.
Preferably, the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of glucoside emulsifier, ceramide emulsifier and lecithin emulsifier, and the mass ratio is (3-8): (1-3): (2-4); or the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of glucoside emulsifier and ceramide emulsifier, and the mass ratio is (6-10): (1-4).
The ceramide can strengthen the natural protective lipid barrier of the skin, is composed of a phytosphingosine main chain acylated by saturated fatty acid (stearic acid), the volume of a hydrophilic head group of the ceramide is far smaller than that of a hydrophobic tail chain, so that the ceramide has very low solubility in a water phase and an oil phase, and has great difficulty and limitation in application in a formula, although the prior art can form a liquid crystal structure, the quantity and the shape of the ceramide are difficult to ensure, therefore, the development of an emulsifier combination capable of generating a stable liquid crystal structure is very important, the polyglycerol emulsifier is taken as a main emulsifier, and an auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of a glucoside emulsifier, a ceramide emulsifier and a lecithin emulsifier, so that the relatively uniform emulsified particle size and more liquid crystal quantity can be obtained, the formation of the liquid crystal structure is a slow process, the emulsifier performs irregular thermal motion in a system, and the molecules of the main emulsifier and the auxiliary emulsifier are gradually and orderly arranged at an oil-water interface in the cooling stirring process, so as to form a layered liquid crystal structure, the stability of the ceramide in the system is improved, and the long-range German force among liquid drops is reduced. Meanwhile, the liquid crystal structure formed by the emulsifier has a certain similarity with the lamellar structure of lipid in the skin barrier, so that the penetration of ceramide in the skin is promoted, the skin barrier repairing effect and the moisturizing effect are improved, and the skin feel is improved.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
Preferably, the emulsifier composition comprises 0.1-20% by weight of the total raw materials of the skin care product.
In one embodiment, the skin care product is prepared from a starting material comprising ceramide.
Preferably, the ceramide accounts for 0.001-5% of the total raw materials of the skin care product by weight.
The ceramide includes, but is not limited to, ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NS, ceramide NG, and ceramide AS.
In one embodiment, the skin care product is prepared from a raw material comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase.
The raw materials for preparation include one or more of emollient, antiseptic, pH regulator, humectant, thickener, ultraviolet absorbent, skin conditioner, coemulsifier, and active ingredient, and can be selected by those skilled in the art according to actual requirements.
As an example of an emollient such as a silicone oil, including but not limited to behenic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearic acid, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, jojoba esters, sucrose cocoate, cetyl ethyl caproate, isocetyl palmitate, glycerol ricinoleate, tocopheryl linoleate, and oils of natural origin such as avocado (PERSEA GRATISSIMA) oil, sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, apricot (PRUNUS ARMENIACA) kernel oil, argan tree (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, oil palm (ELAEIS GUINEENSIS) kernel oil one or more of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) shell oil, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed oil, sunflower (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) seed oil, jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil, babassu (ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA) seed oil, camellia (CAMELLIA JAPONICA) seed oil, macadamia nut (MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA) seed oil, wheat (Triticum VULGARE) germ oil, rosa CANINA (ROSA canna) fruit oil, wood Lu Xingguo palm (ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU) seed fat, aesculus hippocastanum (Shorea ROBUSTA) seed fat, butyrospermum parkii (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, carnauba (COPERNICIA CERIFERA) wax, candelilla (EUPHORBIA CERIFERA) wax, beeswax, lanolin.
Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, one or more of sodium benzoate, phenoxyisopropanol, benzalkonium chloride, lorammonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl chloroisothiazolinone, methyl isothiazolinone, methylparaben, isopropyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, isobutyl hydroxybenzoate, butyl hydroxybenzoate, chlorpheniramine, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, dehydroacetic acid, salicylic acid, octanoyl hydroxamic acid.
Examples of pH adjusting agents include, but are not limited to, one or more of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, succinic acid.
Examples of humectants include, but are not limited to, one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, erythritol, panthenol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, octylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, polyethylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol, polyacrylic acid, sodium polyglutamate, betaine, allantoin, trehalose, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone hydroxy acid, lactate ester, glycerol polyether, polysaccharides.
Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, one or more of sodium metabisulfite, pentaerythritol tetrakis (di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate), p-hydroxyacetophenone, butylated hydroxytoluene, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid.
Examples of thickeners include, but are not limited to, one or more of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, acrylic acid (ester) copolymers, xanthan gum, dehydrogenated xanthan gum, carbomers.
Examples of skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, squalane, hyaluronic acid, nicotinamide, pearl powder, arbutin, ferulic acid, vitamin C, salicylic acid, vitronectin, ergothioneine, resveratrol, polypeptides, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, plant extracts such as one or more of butter tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit extract, white willow (Salix ALBA) bark extract, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract, GINSENG (Panax GINSENG) extract, magnolia officinalis (MAGNOLIA OFFICINALIS) bark extract, turmeric (curcum LONGA) root extract, basil (BASILICUM) flower/leaf extract, purslane (PORTULACA OLERACEA) extract, sweet osmanthus flower (OSMANTHUS FRAGRANS) extract, millet (PANICUM MILIACEUM) seed extract, soapberry (SAPINDUS MUKOROSSI) fruit extract, GINSENG (PANAX GINSENG) root extract, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) leaf extract, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) bud extract, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit extract, fermentation products such as a dipivy yeast fermentation product filtrate, a thermophilic fungus (THERMUS THERMOPHILLUS) fermentation product filtrate, a galactomycelial fungus fermentation product filtrate, and a bacillus fermentation product.
The above components are not limited to those skilled in the art, and the raw materials may be selected and prepared according to actual conditions.
Advantageous effects
1. The polyglycerol type emulsifier is used as a main emulsifier, and the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of a glucoside type emulsifier, a ceramide type emulsifier and a lecithin type emulsifier, so that a relatively uniform emulsified particle size and a relatively large liquid crystal quantity can be obtained.
2. The polyglycerol emulsifier is used as a main emulsifier, and the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of glucoside emulsifier, ceramide emulsifier and lecithin emulsifier, so that the permeation of ceramide in skin is promoted.
3. The polyglycerol emulsifier is used as a main emulsifier, and the auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of a glucoside emulsifier, a ceramide emulsifier and a lecithin emulsifier, so that the skin barrier repairing effect and the moisturizing effect are improved.
4. The emulsifier selected by the invention is a natural source, has small irritation, wide application range and can be used by sensitive muscles.
5. The emulsifier composition greatly improves the stability and permeability of the ceramide in the skin care product, and has good moisturizing, anti-allergy and repairing effects.
Drawings
FIG. 1 example 1 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 2 example 2 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 3 example 3 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 4 example 4 images of liquid Crystal Structure were observed under a polarizing microscope
FIG. 5 example 5 observation of an image of a liquid Crystal Structure under a polarizing microscope
Detailed Description
The polyglycerol-6 distearate was purchased from gatheremosse SAS.
The polyglycerol-10 stearate was purchased from Guangzhou Ruiyou Co.
The arachidyl alcohol glucoside was purchased from SEPPIC s.a.
The ceramide NP was purchased from LCS Biotech co., ltd.
Example 1
This example 1 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-6 distearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.5 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 part of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.05 part of glycerol stearate citrate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts polyglycerol-6 distearate, 0.5 parts arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 parts hydrogenated lecithin, 0.05 parts glycerol stearate citrate), 0.2 parts ceramide NP, 2.5 parts behenyl alcohol, 12 parts caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts glycerol, 0.5 parts ethylhexyl glycerol and phenoxyethanol were supplemented with water to 100 parts.
The preparation method comprises mixing water and glycerol to obtain water phase, and heating to 80deg.C; mixing oil (caprylic/capric triglyceride), main emulsifier and auxiliary emulsifier, and ceramide NP as oil phase, heating and stirring to 80deg.C and ensuring complete dissolution of the oil phase; homogenizing the water phase material, slowly adding the oil phase material into the water phase for emulsification, wherein the homogenizing time is 12min, and the homogenizing speed is 3000rpm; and adding preservative (ethylhexyl glycerol and phenoxyethanol) during cooling and stirring to obtain the final skin care product.
It should be noted that the above application example is mainly for verifying that the emulsifier combination of the present invention can obtain a relatively uniform emulsified particle size and a relatively large amount of liquid crystals, and verifying that the most simple component formulation for promoting penetration of ceramide is adopted, and in the practical application process, a person skilled in the art can select and adjust the raw materials according to practical situations.
Example 2
This example 2 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.1 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.05 part of glyceryl stearate citrate and 0.7 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.1 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.05 part of glyceryl stearate citrate, 0.7 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol, and water were added to make up to 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Example 3
This example 3 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.5 part of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.5 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol and water were added to supplement 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Example 4
This example 4 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.8 part of arachidyl glucoside and 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and the co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.8 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol and water were added to supplement 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Example 5
This example 5 discloses an emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 stearate, and the mass portion is 2.5 portions
The auxiliary emulsifier is a combination of 0.5 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 part of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate in parts by mass.
In another aspect, the invention discloses the use of the emulsifier composition in skin care products.
The skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by mass: the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier (2.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate, 0.5 part of arachidyl glucoside, 0.3 part of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 part of dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate), 0.2 part of ceramide NP, 2.5 parts of behenyl alcohol, 12 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.5 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, phenoxyethanol and water were added to make up to 100 parts.
The preparation method is the same as in example 1.
Performance testing
1. Emulsion particle size and liquid crystal amount observations, liquid crystal structure observations of examples 1-5 were observed under a polarizing microscope, as shown in fig. 1-5.
Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5
Emulsified particle size Non-uniformity of Non-uniformity of More uniform Uniformity of Uniformity of
Quantity of liquid crystal Less quantity Less quantity More than that Multiple ones Multiple ones
Examples 3-5 a clear maltese cross, i.e. the presence of a liquid crystal structure, was observed under the microscope. Examples 4 and 5 have a more uniform emulsified particle size and a larger amount of liquid crystals.
2. Effect of emulsifier combinations on ceramide permeability
The transdermal capacity of ceramide in examples 1-5 to the skin of the back of the isolated suckling pigs was measured using the Franz Cell diffusion Cell method: 7.0mL of physiological saline was added to the receiving chamber as a receiving solution, and the matched magnet was placed in the receiving chamber. The skin of the sucking pig is fixed between a diffusion chamber and a receiving chamber of the Franz Cell diffusion Cell, the cuticle of the skin of the sucking pig faces the diffusion chamber, and the dermis layer faces the receiving chamber. After the suckling pig skin is fixed, 1.0mL of physiological saline is supplemented into the sampling tube by a liquid-transfering gun according to the liquid height of the sampling tube, so that the suckling pig skin and the receiving liquid are in close contact, and the total volume of the receiving liquid is 8.0mL. The Franz Cell diffusion Cell was fixed in a percutaneous absorption diffuser, an electromagnetic stirrer was turned on to stir at 300rpm, a constant temperature water bath of 32+ -1deg.C was maintained and no bubbling of the water bath interlayer was ensured. After the water bath temperature of the diffuser was constant, a sample was loaded, 400. Mu.L of the sample (examples 1-5) was sucked up by a pipette and added to the surface of the skin of the milk pig. 1.0mL of the receiving solution was withdrawn by connecting the Peek tube to the pipette at 8 hours and placed in the 2.0mL EP tube, and then 1.0mL of physiological saline solution was fed into the receiving chamber by the pipette, and samples were collected at 24 hours. After sample collection, physiological saline is sucked by a pipetting gun to repeatedly blow and clean the surface of the suckling pig skin for 3 times, and the constant volume is 2.0mL, which is an impermeable part on the skin. The pigskin is sheared and placed in a 2.0mL EP tube, the normal saline is fixed to 2.0mL, and the ultrasonic treatment is carried out for 30 minutes, so as to obtain the residual part in the pigskin. The content of ceramide NP in each sample was quantitatively analyzed by LCMS. The total amount of ceramide in 24 hours is the total subcutaneous permeation amount, the non-permeation part on the skin and the residual part in the skin, the recovery rate of ceramide is measured by the data, and the accuracy of the method is verified. Penetration percentage = 24 hours subcutaneous cumulative penetration/24 hours total ceramide 100%. The test results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Conclusion: the total amount of ceramide in 24 hours is about 0.672mg, which is consistent with the addition amount of ceramide in a sample, namely, the concentration of the ceramide measured by the Franz Cell infiltration pond method has better recovery rate, and the experimental method is effective. Wherein example 5 corresponds to the highest penetration percentage. Namely, the liquid crystal structure formed by the combination of the polyglycerol-10 stearate, the arachidyl glucoside, the hydrogenated lecithin and the dioctyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate can promote the permeation of the ceramide NP in the skin and promote the protective effect on the skin barrier.
3. Skin care product containing emulsifier combination for protecting skin
Examples 1-5 were tested for their skin barrier repair effect. 60 healthy subjects between 18 and 35 years old are selected, the test area is self-explanatory and sensitive, skin problems such as skin lesions, inflammations, birthmarks and the like are avoided, glucocorticoid, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs and antihistamine drugs are not used within 2 months, and the skin barrier function is poor (TEWL is more than or equal to 15g/m < 2 > h) for non-lactating or gestational period, non-scar physique and non-atopy patients. All subjects were voluntarily enrolled and informed consent was signed prior to the test. The 60 subjects were randomized into 5 groups and the samples of examples 1-5 were used for 14 days, respectively, and skin care related parameters were measured before and at 14 days of use: the rate of change of skin moisture loss from 14 days before use was calculated using the skin moisture loss tester Tewameter to test the skin moisture loss TEWL value and the skin moisture content tester Corneometer to test the skin stratum corneum moisture content, and the results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Examples numbering Rate of change of skin percutaneous water loss Moisture content of stratum corneum
1 -17.62% +13.54%
2 -19.55% +19.37%
3 -18.46% +19.84%
4 -19.71% +23.26%
5 -25.45% +24.01%
Conclusion: examples 1-5 all reduce the percutaneous water loss rate of the skin, increase the water content of the stratum corneum and have certain repairing effect on the skin barrier. Of these, example 5 works best for reducing the rate of skin transdermal water loss and increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, and may be associated with the liquid crystal structure formed in combination with an emulsifier to promote penetration of the active into the skin barrier.

Claims (10)

1. An emulsifier composition capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, comprising a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier.
2. The emulsifier composition of claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of main emulsifier to co-emulsifier is 1: (0.01-1).
3. An emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the primary emulsifier is a natural zwitterionic surfactant and/or a natural nonionic surfactant.
4. An emulsifier composition according to claim 3, wherein the natural nonionic surfactant is a polyglycerol-based emulsifier.
5. The emulsifier composition according to claim 4, wherein the polyglycerin emulsifier has a polymerization degree of 3-10, preferably 8-10.
6. The emulsifier composition of claim 1 wherein the co-emulsifier is one or more of a glucoside type emulsifier, a glycerol fatty acid ester citrate type emulsifier, an olive type emulsifier, a phosphate type emulsifier, a ceramide type emulsifier, and a lecithin type emulsifier.
7. Use of an emulsifier composition according to any one of claims 1-6 in a skin care product.
8. The use according to claim 7, wherein the emulsifier composition comprises 0.1-20% by weight of the total raw materials of the skin care product.
9. The use according to claim 8, wherein the skin care product is prepared from a material comprising ceramide.
10. The use according to claim 9, wherein the ceramide comprises 0.001-5% by weight of the total raw material of the skin care product.
CN202310642583.7A 2023-05-31 2023-05-31 Emulsifier composition capable of forming liquid crystal structure and application thereof Pending CN116549309A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN117797080A (en) * 2023-12-29 2024-04-02 广州市仙迪生物科技有限公司 Fruit oil bionic sebum composition with repairing effect, and preparation method and application thereof

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN117797080A (en) * 2023-12-29 2024-04-02 广州市仙迪生物科技有限公司 Fruit oil bionic sebum composition with repairing effect, and preparation method and application thereof
CN117797080B (en) * 2023-12-29 2024-05-28 广州市仙迪生物科技有限公司 Fruit oil bionic sebum composition with repairing effect, and preparation method and application thereof

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