CN116492261A - Supermolecule peony peptide composition and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Supermolecule peony peptide composition and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN116492261A CN116492261A CN202310607783.9A CN202310607783A CN116492261A CN 116492261 A CN116492261 A CN 116492261A CN 202310607783 A CN202310607783 A CN 202310607783A CN 116492261 A CN116492261 A CN 116492261A
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- peptide composition
- peony
- supermolecule
- peony peptide
- mixture
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01D—SEPARATION
- B01D11/00—Solvent extraction
- B01D11/02—Solvent extraction of solids
- B01D11/0288—Applications, solvents
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
- C08G83/00—Macromolecular compounds not provided for in groups C08G2/00 - C08G81/00
- C08G83/008—Supramolecular polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P20/00—Technologies relating to chemical industry
- Y02P20/50—Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals
- Y02P20/54—Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals using solvents, e.g. supercritical solvents or ionic liquids
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Polymers & Plastics (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a supermolecule peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of daily chemicals. According to the preparation method of the supermolecule peony peptide composition, the supermolecule solvent is used for carrying out synergistic permeation promotion on the key active substance peony branch/flower/leaf extract and the acetyl hexapeptide-8, so that the obtained product has nano-scale active particles, and the rapid skin permeability of the whole product is improved. The invention also discloses the supermolecule peony peptide composition prepared by the method, and the supermolecule peony peptide composition combines hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, can quickly penetrate into deep layers of skin and fully shows good wrinkle-removing, antioxidation and soothing effects. The invention also discloses a cosmetic prepared by further applying the supermolecule peony peptide composition.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemical products, in particular to a supermolecule peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Aging of a human body can show a slow metabolism rate, and a reduction of a moisturizing factor in a dermis layer, so that the phenomena of poor moisturizing ability, weakening of elasticity and wrinkles of the skin are caused. For this reason, efforts have been made to develop skin care products and cosmetics having an anti-aging function, in which polypeptides are widely used as key components due to their higher biological activity.
However, in the existing skin care products and cosmetics containing polypeptides, the polypeptides are difficult to fully exert the multiple effects (including wrinkle removal, antioxidation and soothing effects), and the polypeptides have poor penetration capability on the surface layer of the skin, and have strong hydrophilicity and weak lipophilicity in organisms, so that the overall bioavailability is not high.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the defects existing in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a preparation method of a supermolecule peony peptide composition, which uses supermolecule solvent to synergistically promote permeation of key active substances of peony branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8, so that the obtained product has nano-level active particles, thereby improving the rapid skin permeability of the whole product; the supermolecule peony peptide composition has both hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, and can fully exhibit good wrinkle-removing, antioxidation and soothing effects.
A preparation method of a supermolecule peony peptide composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing and heating the ionic liquid solvent under the atmosphere of protective gas, performing ion exchange reaction, and then performing primary impurity removal, homogenization, secondary impurity removal and purification to obtain a supermolecule solvent; the ionic liquid comprises at least two of betaine, malic acid, citric acid and alkyl glucoside;
(2) Heating supermolecule solvent under protective gas atmosphere, adding peony (PAEONIA SUFFRUTICOSA) branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8 under shearing condition, homogenizing under high pressure or treating with microjet to obtain supermolecule peony peptide composition.
Generally, since the epidermis layer of the skin of an organism is hydrophilic and the stratum corneum layer is lipophilic, it is difficult for polypeptides in conventional polypeptide-containing products to penetrate rapidly and deeply, and although the permeability of the whole product can be enhanced by means of amphiphilic solvents, the polypeptides are easily separated from the solvents during the penetration process, resulting in loss of activity and waste of active substances. Therefore, in the technical scheme of the invention, the inventor adopts a supermolecular solvent prepared by ionic liquid to carry out synergistic permeation promotion treatment on the key active substance peony branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8 to form supermolecular peptide, the surface of the product is subjected to electrostatic redistribution, and different from raw materials, positive potential and negative potential on the surface of the product are respectively aggregated, so that molecules are mutually attracted and kept stable under the action of coulomb force; meanwhile, the positive potential end of the product presents lipophilicity, and the negative potential end presents hydrophilicity, so that the supermolecule peptide composition can smoothly enter from the affinity end based on a similar compatibility principle when crossing the stratum corneum or epidermis, and then a section without affinity is dragged into the skin by coulomb force action, thereby achieving the effect of penetration on different skin layers.
In addition, in the key active substance raw materials used in the scheme of the invention, acetyl hexapeptide-8 is also called hexapeptide, is a small molecule formed by combining six amino acids, has the action mechanism similar to botulinum toxin, and can release neurotransmitter (acetylcholine) at nerve endings in the skin aging process to trigger muscle relaxation, while acetyl hexapeptide-8 can influence the formation of a complex by participating in competing with SNAP-25 at the site of a foam-melting complex, and when the complex is unstable, vesicles can not effectively release neurotransmitter, thereby weakening muscle contraction, relaxing expression muscles caused by nerve tension, preventing the formation of wrinkles, and has excellent effects in fading eye dynamic lines. The peony branch/flower/leaf extract is prepared by fermenting and extracting the peony whole plant by lactobacillus plantarum, is rich in various active ingredients such as flavone, polyphenol and the like, can effectively remove free radicals in a chain reaction initiation stage, can directly capture the free radicals in a free radical reaction chain, blocks the free radical chain reaction, plays a double role in preventing and breaking the chain, and has the function of delaying aging. After the two raw materials are fully acted by the supermolecular solvent, nanoscale small molecular peptide particles with extremely high dispersibility can be generated in the solvent, the particles have higher permeation efficiency, and meanwhile, after entering the deep layer of the skin, the active substances can fully play the roles of resisting oxidation and removing wrinkles, and meanwhile, the active substances also have the effects of soothing the skin and resisting inflammation.
Meanwhile, it should be noted that the peony branch/flower/leaf extract of the present invention may be a self-made product or a commercially purchased product, and those skilled in the art should know that the peony branch/flower/leaf extract obtained by a non-specific process has similar initial properties.
Preferably, in the supermolecule peony peptide composition, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 0.0001-10wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.01-1wt%.
More preferably, in the supermolecule peony peptide composition, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 2.5-7.5 wt%, and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.25-0.75 wt%.
Through experiments of the inventor, when one of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract and the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is absent in the preparation process of the product, the permeability of the product is greatly reduced, and along with the introduction and content improvement of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract and the acetyl hexapeptide-8, the permeability of the prepared supermolecule peony peptide composition is obviously improved firstly, and the product starts to be reduced after reaching a certain peak value, so that the comprehensive permeability of the product prepared in the range is optimal.
Preferably, the ionic liquid solvent is a mixture of betaine and malic acid, and the mass ratio of betaine to malic acid is 16: (0.5-1.5).
The malic acid is the fruit acid, can accelerate the exfoliating of keratinocytes, soften the horny layer of the skin, increase the collagen of the skin and effectively improve the phenomenon of skin dryness when acting on the skin, and is also a natural skin moisturizing component, and can remove wrinkles on the surface of the skin to achieve the anti-aging effect; betaine is naturally present in many plants, and modern researches have shown that betaine has the ability of rapidly improving skin moisture retention, has unique moisturizing and cell membrane protecting properties, and can increase the solubility of active ingredients in water and reduce the skin irritation caused by surfactants or fruit acids. When the two ionic liquids are mixed to be used as the supermolecular solvent to prepare the product, the product can exert respective skin care effects, so that the skin care effect of the product is further improved.
Preferably, the temperature in the ion exchange reaction in the step (1) is 20-100 ℃ and the time is 4-72 h.
Preferably, the solvent used in the primary impurity removal and the secondary impurity removal in the step (1) is ethanol, and the secondary impurity removal is performed in an ultrasonic environment.
Preferably, the purification in the step (1) is performed by using a vacuum rotary evaporator.
Preferably, the rate at shearing conditions in step (2) is 200 to 1000rpm.
Preferably, the temperature of the supramolecular solvent after heating in the step (2) is less than or equal to 45 ℃.
Preferably, the conditions of high-pressure homogenization in the step (2) are: homogenizing under 400-1500bar for 2-10 times at 80deg.C or below; the conditions of the microfluidic treatment are: the working pressure is 400-500bar, and the working temperature is 25-35 ℃.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the supramolecular peony peptide composition prepared by the method for preparing the supramolecular peony peptide composition.
The supermolecule peony peptide composition has good hydrophilic and lipophilic amphipathy, and can effectively and rapidly permeate deep skin, so that good skin care function is realized; meanwhile, the effect is not equal to that of a product prepared from any existing raw material of natural source, and compared with the product of the same type in the prior art, the product of the invention has obvious technical effect improvement.
It is still another object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic comprising the supramolecular peony peptide composition of the present invention.
When the supermolecule peony peptide composition is used as a cosmetic ingredient, the supermolecule peony peptide composition has strong permeability, can fully exert the skin care effect of active ingredients of peony branch/flower/leaf extracts and acetyl hexapeptide-8, and meanwhile, the supermolecule solvent contained in the supermolecule peony peptide composition can cooperate with the solvent ingredient in the cosmetic to further improve the stability of the product and the absorption activity of the product on skin, so that the product has excellent effects of resisting oxidation, relieving inflammation and removing wrinkles.
Preferably, the formulation of the cosmetic is any one of liquid and solid.
More preferably, the cosmetic is any one of an aqueous cosmetic, an emulsion cosmetic, and a cream cosmetic.
Preferably, in the cosmetic, the mass content of the supermolecule peony peptide composition is 1-10wt%.
More preferably, the cosmetic comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts:
4 to 6 parts of glycerin, 3 to 5 parts of butanediol, 0.1 to 0.5 part of carbomer, 0.01 to 0.1 part of xanthan gum, 0.1 to 1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01 to 0.1 part of sodium gluconate, 0.1 to 0.5 part of olive oil emulsifying wax, 2 to 4 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 0.5 to 2 parts of behenyl alcohol, 0.1 to 1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1 to 0.5 part of arginine, 1 to 10 parts of supermolecule peony peptide composition and the balance of water.
The supermolecular peony peptide composition has high solvent compatibility and component collocation stability, and the cosmetics prepared from the components can fully exert the synergistic skin care effect of the polypeptide active substance and the rest active components of the supermolecular peony peptide composition, and the product performance is excellent.
It is still another object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing the cosmetic, comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing glycerol, butanediol, carbomer, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium gluconate and water, homogenizing, heating and stirring to obtain a mixture A, and maintaining the temperature of the mixture A;
(2) Mixing olive oil emulsifying wax, dioctyl carbonate and behenyl alcohol, and heating until the obtained solution turns yellow to obtain a mixture B;
(3) Mixing and homogenizing the mixture A and the mixture B, and cooling to obtain a mixture C;
(4) Sequentially adding 1, 2-hexanediol, arginine and supermolecule peony peptide composition into the mixture C, uniformly mixing, and sieving to obtain the cosmetic.
The invention has the beneficial effects that the invention provides a preparation method of the supermolecule peony peptide composition, which uses supermolecule solvent to synergistically promote permeation of key active substances of peony branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8, so that the obtained product has nano-level active particles, thereby improving the rapid skin permeability of the whole product. The invention also provides the supermolecule peony peptide composition prepared by the method, and the supermolecule peony peptide composition combines hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, can quickly penetrate into deep layers of skin and fully shows good wrinkle-removing, antioxidation and soothing effects. The invention also provides a cosmetic prepared by further applying the supermolecule peony peptide composition.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples and comparative examples for better illustrating the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, and the object of the present invention is to be understood in detail, not to limit the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art without the inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the present invention. The experimental reagents and instruments involved in the practice of the present invention are common reagents and instruments unless otherwise specified. The extracts of the peony branches/flowers/leaves used in the examples and comparative examples of the present invention are commercially available products.
Example 1
In one embodiment of the supramolecular peony peptide composition and the preparation method thereof, the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing and heating betaine and malic acid to 60 ℃ in a homogenizing mixer according to the mass ratio of 16:1 in inert gas atmosphere, carrying out ion exchange reaction for 24 hours, cooling to room temperature, washing with ethanol for one time to remove impurities, homogenizing, carrying out secondary impurity removal with ethanol for 20 minutes in ultrasonic environment, and purifying with a vacuum rotary evaporator to remove ethanol to obtain a supermolecule solvent;
(2) Heating a supermolecule solvent in an inert gas atmosphere, then adding the peony branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8 under the shearing condition of 500rpm speed, and homogenizing under high pressure to obtain the supermolecule peony peptide composition; the conditions of high-pressure homogenization are as follows: homogenizing under 800bar for 5 times at 80 deg.c; in the supermolecule peony peptide composition, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 0.0001wt%, and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.01wt%.
Example 2
The supermolecule peony peptide composition and one embodiment of the preparation method thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the supermolecule peony peptide composition is 2.5wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.25wt%.
Example 3
The supermolecule peony peptide composition and one embodiment of the preparation method thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the supermolecule peony peptide composition is 5wt%, and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.5wt%.
Example 4
The supermolecule peony peptide composition and one embodiment of the preparation method thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the supermolecule peony peptide composition is 7.5wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.75wt%.
Example 5
The supermolecule peony peptide composition and one embodiment of the preparation method thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the supermolecule peony peptide composition is 10wt%, and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1wt%.
Example 6
An embodiment of the supramolecular peony peptide composition and the preparation method thereof of the present invention differs from embodiment 2 only in that malic acid is replaced with citric acid.
Comparative example 1
A supermolecular peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are different from example 5 only in that the mass content of peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the supermolecular peony peptide composition is 0wt%, and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1wt%.
Comparative example 2
A supermolecular peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are different from example 5 only in that the mass content of peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the supermolecular peony peptide composition is 10wt%, and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0wt%.
Comparative example 3
The supermolecule plains-like peptide composition and its preparation method only differ from example 5 in that the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is replaced with a commercial plains-like (TUBER MAGNATUM) extract in the supermolecule plains-like peptide composition.
Comparative example 4
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps:
mixing and heating betaine and malic acid in a mass ratio of 16:1 to 60 ℃ in a homogenizing mixer under inert gas atmosphere, then adding the peony branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8 under a shearing condition with a speed of 500rpm, and homogenizing under high pressure to obtain the peony peptide composition; the conditions of high pressure homogenization were the same as in example 1; in the peony peptide composition, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 0.0001wt%, and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.01wt%.
Comparative example 5
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are disclosed, wherein the preparation method is the same as that of comparative example 4, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the peony peptide composition is 2.5wt%, and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.25wt%.
Comparative example 6
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are disclosed, wherein the preparation method is the same as that of comparative example 4, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the peony peptide composition is 5wt%, and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.5wt%.
Comparative example 7
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are disclosed, wherein the preparation method is the same as that of comparative example 4, the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract in the peony peptide composition is 7.5wt%, and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.75wt%.
Comparative example 8
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are the same as in comparative example 4, wherein the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 10wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1wt%.
Comparative example 9
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are the same as in comparative example 4, wherein the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 0wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1wt%.
Comparative example 10
A peony peptide composition and a preparation method thereof are the same as in comparative example 4, wherein the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 10wt% and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0wt%.
Comparative example 11
A method for preparing a composition of a white truffle peptide, and a method for preparing the same are disclosed, wherein the white truffle peptide composition is prepared by replacing the peony branch/flower/leaf extract with a commercial white truffle extract.
Effect example 1
In order to verify the skin penetration effect of the supramolecular peony peptide composition of the present invention, the following transdermal test experiments were performed:
the transdermal penetration of the product was measured at different times using a commercial pig skin model to evaluate the transdermal delivery efficiency of the major component in the sample. The in vitro transdermal diffusion experiment can predict the percutaneous absorption speed of the product, and the skin consists of a stratum corneum, epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous tissue and the like. The product is placed on the surface of the skin and then permeates into the skin, and reaches the dermis through the epidermis, and the product can be quickly absorbed into the body circulation due to rich capillary vessels in the dermis, so that the concentration of the product on the inner surface of the skin is very low, namely, the condition of 'leaking grooves' is met, and the concentration of the product is close to 0. The skin was immobilized on a Franz diffusion cell with the stratum corneum facing the drug delivery cell and the dermis facing the absorption chamber, and the product was placed in the drug delivery cell. The product concentration in the medium in the receiving cell on the other side of the skin was measured at given time intervals and the kinetics of drug permeation through the skin was analyzed.
The specific operation steps are as follows:
(1) And (5) microscopic examination: selecting intact pig skin under an anatomic lens, shearing a plurality of pieces of skin with the same size, cleaning the skin once by using normal saline, and sucking the surface moisture by using filter paper;
(2) Fixation of skin: fixing skin on Franz diffusion cell, wherein horny layer faces to administration chamber, dermis layer faces to receiving cell, adding 15ml physiological saline into receiving cell, and removing bubbles, to ensure no bubbles between dermis layer and receiving liquid;
(3) Administration: opening the instrument in advance, regulating the temperature of the water bath to 37+ -1deg.C, adding 1mL of the products of different examples and comparative examples into the administration room, sealing the sealing film, adding tinfoil to prevent liquid evaporation, wherein the effective penetration area is 0.36 pi cm 2 ;
(4) Penetration: setting stirring at 300rpm/min;
(5) Sampling: the skin was minced and extracted at specific time points (1 h, 3h, 5h, 7 h), and the skin was filtered using a 0.22 μm organic film and then subjected to HPLC detection, and the percutaneous permeation amount was calculated.
The test results are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1
As can be seen from table 1, the supermolecular peony peptide composition prepared by the method of the present invention has excellent skin permeability, the effect is derived from the product obtained by synergistic permeation of two key raw materials through supermolecular solvents, when one or the other raw materials with similar effects are absent or replaced by the two key raw materials, as shown in comparative examples 1 to 3, the expected permeation effect is difficult to be exerted; the two raw materials are treated by adopting a common process, even if the types and the addition amounts of the additives are not changed, the prepared product does not have obvious amphipathy, as shown in comparative examples 4-11, even if the addition amounts of the two key raw materials are regulated or the types of the key raw materials are replaced, the permeation amount of the product after 7 hours is about fifteen to twenty times that of the product of each embodiment. In comparison with the products of the examples, it was found that the skin permeation rate of the product was the highest and the permeation effect was the best when the mass content of the peony/flower/leaf extract was 2.5 to 7.5wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 was 0.24 to 0.75wt% in the supermolecule peony peptide composition.
Effect example 1
To verify the true use effect of the supramolecular peony peptide composition of the present invention, the products of example 3 and comparative example 6 were formulated as shown in table 2 to prepare cosmetics using the following steps:
(1) Adding glycerol, butanediol, carbomer, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium gluconate and water into an emulsifying pot, mixing and homogenizing until no large particles exist, heating to 80-85deg.C, stirring until the material body has semitransparent effect with certain consistency to obtain a mixture A, and maintaining the temperature of the mixture A for 30min;
(2) Mixing olive oil emulsifying wax, dioctyl carbonate and behenyl alcohol in an oil pan, and heating to 80-85 ℃ until the obtained solution turns yellow to obtain a mixture B;
(3) Mixing and homogenizing the mixture A and the mixture B for 5-10 min to obtain white paste, and cooling to 40-45 ℃ to obtain a mixture C;
(4) Sequentially adding 1, 2-hexanediol, arginine and supermolecule peony peptide composition (or peony peptide composition) into the mixture C, uniformly mixing, and sieving with 200-mesh cloth filter to obtain the cosmetic.
TABLE 2
Carrying out (1) a relaxation test on each product; (2) wrinkle removal test; (3) antioxidant test.
The test steps of the relaxation test are as follows:
control wells and sample wells were set using a 96-well blackboard, and samples and solutions (unit: μl) were added sequentially according to table 3, and after the addition of the samples to be tested, they were mixed and incubated at 37 ℃ for 10min. After adding 5. Mu.l of COX-2probe to each well, 5. Mu.l of COX-2Substrate working solution was rapidly added to each well, mixed well, incubated at 37℃for 30min in the absence of light, and fluorescence was measured and calculated according to the following formula.
Inhibition% = (RFU (100% enzyme activity control) -RFU (sample))/(RFU (100% enzyme activity control) -RFU (blank)) × 100%.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Blank control | 100% enzyme Activity control | Positive inhibitor control | Sample of | |
COX-2Assay Buffer | 80 | 75 | 75 | 75 |
COX-2Cofactor working fluid | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
COX-2 working fluid | - | 5 | 5 | 5 |
Sample solvent | 5 | 5 | - | - |
Celecoxib solution | - | - | 5 | - |
Sample to be measured | - | - | - | 5 |
The test principle is as follows:
cyclooxygenase (COX) is an enzyme that produces signals that lead to pain and inflammation, and PGs are an important class of inflammatory mediators, in which COX-2mRNA and protein are markedly elevated, increasing the yield of PGs. During inflammation, COX-2 is largely induced and expressed, causing amplification and enhancement of the inflammatory response, resulting in damage to the body. In the presence of cofactors (cofactors), COX-2 uses its Cyclooxygenase (COX) activity to epoxidize substrates such as arachidonic acid to produce intermediates such as PGG2, which in turn COX-2 uses its peroxidase activity to catalyze the production of end products such as PGH2, while a COX-2Probe (Probe) with little fluorescence is catalyzed to produce a Probe with strong fluorescence (Ex 560/Em 590). Thus, the enzymatic activity of COX-2 can be detected very sensitively by fluorescence detection. If COX-2 Inhibitor (Inhibitor) is added in the re-reaction, the generation of fluorescence is inhibited, and the fluorescence intensity is inversely proportional to the inhibition effect of the Inhibitor, so that the inhibition effect of the Inhibitor is detected.
The test results are shown in table 4:
TABLE 4 Table 4
Compared with the cosmetics prepared by the conventional peony peptide composition, the cosmetics prepared by the supermolecule peony peptide composition have obvious relieving effect improvement, and along with the increase of the content of the supermolecule peony peptide composition, the highest COX-2 activity inhibition rate can reach 75.12 percent, which is almost one time that of the cosmetics prepared by the same proportion in comparative example 14; in contrast, according to comparative example 15, other components in cosmetics, other than the supramolecular peony peptide composition, do not have a soothing anti-inflammatory effect.
The test steps of the wrinkle removal test in this effect example are:
70 volunteers aged around 35-50 years were recruited, randomly divided into 7 groups of 10 persons each, each group was tested using cosmetics of examples 7-9 and comparative examples 12-15, respectively, once daily, each morning and evening, with the surrounding eyes of the volunteers as the test area. After face cleaning, taking a facial picture of a volunteer by a VISIA facial image analyzer after standing for 15min at a room temperature of 22+/-2 ℃ and a relative humidity of 40+/-2%, wherein the analysis area should avoid interference of a reflective area and hair as much as possible, recording an initial value A0 of the number of wrinkles, and taking pictures after continuously using for one month to record the number A1 of the wrinkles. The reduction rate of the number of wrinkles = (A1-A0)/(a1+ao) ×100% was averaged for each group of volunteers, and the results are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
As can be seen from Table 5, the cosmetic prepared from the supermolecule peony peptide composition has an obvious wrinkle-removing effect, and the wrinkle-removing effect is obviously improved along with the increase of the content ratio of the supermolecule peony peptide composition, and the effect is better than that of similar products prepared from common peony peptide compositions. As can be seen from comparative example 15, the cosmetic of the present invention has no remarkable wrinkle-removing effect on the ingredients other than the supramolecular peony peptide composition.
The test steps of the antioxidation test in this effect example are:
setting up a sample tube (T), a sample background (T0), a DPPH tube (C) and a solvent background (C0), 3 parallel tubes were set up for the sample tubes (T) of each of examples 7 to 9 and comparative examples 12 to 15. 1mL of the same concentration of sample solution was added to each of the sample tube (T) and the sample background (T0). 2mL of the mixture was filled in a test tube, and the mixture was homogenized. 1mL of DPPH ethanol solution was added to the sample tube (T) and the DPPH tube (C), the mixture was gently shaken, allowed to stand at room temperature for 5 minutes, and each reaction solution was transferred to a 1cm cuvette and absorbance was measured at 517 nm.
Wherein DPPH clearance (%) x= (1- (T-T0)/(C-C0)) =100%
The test principle is as follows:
DPPH is a stable long-life radical whose ethanol solution is dark purple and has strong absorption around 517nm, and when a radical scavenger is present, the light absorption of DPPH ethanol solution is reduced due to pairing with its single electron. The extent of discoloration of the DPPH ethanol solution is linearly related to the number of electrons it receives, and thus the ability of the test sample to scavenge free radicals can be evaluated.
The test results are shown in Table 6.
TABLE 6
Group of | DPPH clearance% |
Example 7 | 18.35 |
Example 8 | 24.12 |
Example 9 | 36.70 |
Comparative example 12 | -1.55 |
Comparative example 13 | -0.8 |
Comparative example 14 | 2.17 |
Comparative example 15 | -1.43 |
The cosmetic prepared from the supermolecule peony peptide composition has obvious antioxidation effect, DPPH clearance rate can be increased by more than 35% along with the content ratio of the supermolecule peony peptide composition, the cosmetic prepared from the common peony peptide composition does not have the effect, and the product does not show obvious change in antioxidation effect along with the content ratio of the peony peptide composition.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and not for limiting the scope of the present invention, and although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or substituted equally without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The preparation method of the supermolecule peony peptide composition is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) Mixing and heating the ionic liquid solvent under the atmosphere of protective gas, performing ion exchange reaction, and then performing primary impurity removal, homogenization, secondary impurity removal and purification to obtain a supermolecule solvent; the ionic liquid comprises at least two of betaine, malic acid, citric acid and alkyl glucoside;
(2) Heating a supermolecule solvent in a protective gas atmosphere, adding the peony branch/flower/leaf extract and acetyl hexapeptide-8 under a shearing condition, and carrying out high-pressure homogenization or microjet treatment to obtain the supermolecule peony peptide composition.
2. The method for preparing the supermolecule peony peptide composition according to claim 1, wherein the ionic liquid solvent is a mixture of betaine and malic acid, and the mass ratio of betaine to malic acid is 16: (0.5-1.5).
3. The method of preparing the supramolecular peony peptide composition of claim 1, comprising at least one of the following (a) - (f):
(a) The temperature in the ion exchange reaction in the step (1) is 20-100 ℃ and the time is 4-72 h;
(b) The solvent used for primary impurity removal and secondary impurity removal in the step (1) is ethanol, and the secondary impurity removal is performed in an ultrasonic environment;
(c) The purification in the step (1) is carried out by adopting a vacuum rotary evaporator;
(d) The speed of the shearing condition in the step (2) is 200-1000 rpm;
(e) The temperature of the supermolecule solvent heated in the step (2) is less than or equal to 45 ℃;
(f) The conditions of high-pressure homogenization in the step (2) are as follows: homogenizing under 400-1500bar for 2-10 times at 80deg.C or below; the conditions of the microfluidic treatment are: the working pressure is 400-500bar, and the working temperature is 25-35 ℃.
4. A supramolecular peony peptide composition prepared by the method of preparing a supramolecular peony peptide composition according to any one of claims 1-3.
5. The supramolecular peony peptide composition of claim 4, wherein the mass content of the peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 0.0001-10wt% and the mass content of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.01-1wt%.
6. The supramolecular peony peptide composition of claim 5, wherein the mass content of peony branch/flower/leaf extract is 2.5-7.5 wt% and the mass content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.25-0.75 wt%.
7. A cosmetic composition comprising the supramolecular peony peptide composition of any one of claims 4-6.
8. The cosmetic according to claim 7, wherein the mass content of the supramolecular peony peptide composition in the cosmetic is 1-10 wt%.
9. The cosmetic product of claim 8, wherein the cosmetic product comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts:
4 to 6 parts of glycerin, 3 to 5 parts of butanediol, 0.1 to 0.5 part of carbomer, 0.01 to 0.1 part of xanthan gum, 0.1 to 1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01 to 0.1 part of sodium gluconate, 0.1 to 0.5 part of olive oil emulsifying wax, 2 to 4 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 0.5 to 2 parts of behenyl alcohol, 0.1 to 1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1 to 0.5 part of arginine, 1 to 10 parts of supermolecule peony peptide composition and the balance of water.
10. The method for preparing a cosmetic according to any one of claims 7 to 9, comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing glycerol, butanediol, carbomer, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium gluconate and water, homogenizing, heating and stirring to obtain a mixture A, and maintaining the temperature of the mixture A;
(2) Mixing olive oil emulsifying wax, dioctyl carbonate and behenyl alcohol, and heating until the obtained solution turns yellow to obtain a mixture B;
(3) Mixing and homogenizing the mixture A and the mixture B, and cooling to obtain a mixture C;
(4) Sequentially adding 1, 2-hexanediol, arginine and supermolecule peony peptide composition into the mixture C, uniformly mixing, and sieving to obtain the cosmetic.
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Cited By (2)
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CN116725927A (en) * | 2023-08-09 | 2023-09-12 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Spatial structure composition containing peony active ingredient and preparation method and application thereof |
CN117815148A (en) * | 2024-03-04 | 2024-04-05 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Peony callus extract and preparation method and application thereof |
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Cited By (4)
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CN116725927A (en) * | 2023-08-09 | 2023-09-12 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Spatial structure composition containing peony active ingredient and preparation method and application thereof |
CN116725927B (en) * | 2023-08-09 | 2023-11-17 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Spatial structure composition containing peony active ingredient and preparation method and application thereof |
CN117815148A (en) * | 2024-03-04 | 2024-04-05 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Peony callus extract and preparation method and application thereof |
CN117815148B (en) * | 2024-03-04 | 2024-06-04 | 美出莱(杭州)化妆品有限责任公司 | Peony callus extract and preparation method and application thereof |
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