CN1160783A - Hempen jean and its weaving method - Google Patents
Hempen jean and its weaving method Download PDFInfo
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- CN1160783A CN1160783A CN 96122301 CN96122301A CN1160783A CN 1160783 A CN1160783 A CN 1160783A CN 96122301 CN96122301 CN 96122301 CN 96122301 A CN96122301 A CN 96122301A CN 1160783 A CN1160783 A CN 1160783A
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Abstract
Hempen jean with total tightness degree of 40-99.5% is woven with hempen yarn of density 20-300 Tex spinned with hempen fibre. Its weaving process includes warp spooling, twist setting, warping, dyeing, sizing; weft twisting, weaving, singeing and sizing, weft finishing and shrinkproof finishing. Hempen jean has good dressing property including hydroscopicity, permeability, flexibility and draping as well as bacteriostasis, ultraviolet ray-resisting, radiation resisting, antistatic and other health functions.
Description
The invention belongs to the flax spinning technical field, be specifically related to utilize the hempen jean that hempen fibre (line) is made into and the manufacture method of hempen jean.
At present the denim produced of China mainly is to utilize textile, man-made fibre yarn (line) to produce, and its gas permeability, humidity absorption and release, flexibility are relatively poor, and do not possess health care.Chinese patent application number is 94110176, and the described denim that name is called in cotton/polyamide/polyurethane fibre high-grade elastic denim suit and preparation method thereof is a knit fabric, adopts the printing technology manufacturing, but does not possess health care.
Purpose of the present invention is exactly at the deficiencies in the prior art, provides a kind of hempen fibre (line) that utilizes to knit hempen jean and the manufacture method of making.
The present invention can realize by following measure:
Hempen fibre (line) is owing to be to form with big flax bunch fiber spinning, so hempen fibre (line) surface hairiness is many, more thick and stiff, therefore weaves the comparison difficulty according to common process, needs the effective weaving process technology of formulation, could produce.Hempen fibre (line) humidity absorption and release speed is fast in addition, and is therefore strict to weaving, afterwards put in order ambient temperature and humidity control, satisfy in the whole weaving process, and hempen fibre (line) is a moisture absorption process.For reaching above requirement, manufacture method provided by the invention is as follows:
1, winder: adopt automatic winder or with water-fog type sky twister, electronic yarn clearer, fixed length device, the non junction yarn of making (line).
2,, adopt the wet dead twist method of decatize heat or deposit the dead twist method naturally, the wet dead twist method requirement of decatize heat steam pressure 0.1MPa～0.15MPa, 20 to 30 minutes time to hempen fibre (line) processing of setting twist.Naturally deposit the dead twist method, require 25 to 30 ℃ of indoor temperatures, relative humidity 75～83%, 20～24 hours time.
3, warping; Warping tension force adopts hightension, and the limit increases by 20% through single thread (line) tension force, 120～200 meters/minute of speed of beamings, and 250～300 meters/minute of ball warping speed, warping is pressurised into parallel pressurization through axle.
4, indigo dyeing, technological process is; Through axle → wettability treatment (washing 2～3 times) → dyeing, oxidation (repeating 3～8 times), the flat cylinder reduction potential-900 of indigo dye prereduction～-950mv, 50～55 ℃ of temperature, keep 30 minutes standby.The reducing solution prescription is respectively: dye slurry associating formulation weight ratio and be indigo dye: sodium hydrosulfite (85%): caustic soda (100%): bleeding agent: alcohol=1: 1.4～1.7: 1.1～1.3: 0.07: 0.057; Ball warp dyeing recipe weight ratio is: indigo dye: sodium hydrosulfite (85%): caustic soda (100%): bleeding agent: alcohol=1: 0.85～1.5: 0.8～0.9: 0.057: 0.04 7.Need add sodium hydrosulfite in addition in the ball warp dyeing production process and replenish liquid, guarantee to dye the stable of leuco compound, sodium hydrosulfite replenishes the formula of liquid weight ratio and is sodium hydrosulfite (85%): alkali (100%)=20: 1, temperature is controlled at below 5 °.
5, the blue or green dyeing of sulfuration:
Vulcanizing blue or green dyeing need heat in first and third, five staining baths, 90～95 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, the sulfuration young worker formulation weight ratio of planting is, sulfuration is blue or green: akali sulphide: sodium bicarbonate: bleeding agent=1: 0.83: 0.1: 0.03, and continuous material technical recipe weight ratio is: sulfuration is blue or green: akali sulphide: sodium bicarbonate: bleeding agent=1: 0.56: 0.05: 0.0125.Hempen fibre (line) is wanted boiling-off before the blue or green dyeing of sulfuration, will prevent crisp processing after the blue or green dyeing of sulfuration, during starching, adds urea in slurries, and amount of urea is 0.7% of hempen fibre (line) weight, and at last through washing 2～3 roads, water temperature is normal temperature or 40 ± 2 ℃.
6, starching: sizing requires serous coat smooth complete, soft, slurry uses wheat dried starch (moisture 14%), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), converted starch mixed pulp, PVA slurry content in mixed pulp is 25～100%, and dye the slurry associating rate of sizing: ramuscule 8%～12%, middle low count yarn are 6～9%, line is 3～5%, regain 7～10%, percentage elongation be below 10%, beam winding density 0.4～0.35g/cm
3, the speed of a motor vehicle and the synchronous 18～25m/ branch of dyeing, dyed yarn dries by the fire regain and is not more than 20%, and slurry groove temperature is greater than 96 ℃.
40～60 meters/minute of the ball warp dyeing speed of a motor vehicle, the rate of sizing 3～12%, sizing elongation 0.4～0.8%, dyed yarn regain 9%～10% is through axle regain 7～10%, through axle rolling density 0.47～0.57g/cm
3
7, weave: hempen jean is in weaving process, and with the power of beating up greatly, the warp let-off is with the outer warp let-off of machine, to strengthen the filling density excursion.The loom technological parameter adopts big warp tension, is the high back rest through the position line, and early opening process is weaved 25～30 ℃ of workshop temperature, relative humidity 75～83%.
8, singe, starching: singeing: look base → bristle (just-anti-) → singe.
Singe with liquefied petroleum gas or coal gas fuel, 35～60 meters/minute of cloth speed, are singed and are only burnt the cloth front once, fuel air pressure 0.19MPa～0.35MPa, air blast air pressure 0.5MPa～0.65MPa, 1300～1500 ℃ of flame temperatures by minimum 30 meters/minute.Will regularly carry out the cleaning maintenance work of burner and fuel channel etc., guarantee that burning is normal, flame is even.Burner must be driven exhaust fan earlier before beginning igniting, after the parking, should not close ventilating fan immediately, and it is good that workshop ventilation often keeps.
Back arrangement sizing technique flow process: the back look base of singing → pad starching (fire extinguishing of holding concurrently) → whole latitude (skewing) → drying cylinder drying → cropping.
Formula of size is: wheat dried starch: bleeding agent: softener=1: 0.13: 0.27, earlier dried starch is dissolved in (constant volume 1500L) in the mixing cirtern water, again the thing row is dissolved good softener, bleeding agent, preservative agent and add together, stir, heat to 95 ℃, be incubated 15 minutes standby.
Arrangement sizing technique in back is 60～70 ℃ of slurry groove temperatures, the rate of sizing 2～3%, 35～60 meters/minute of cloth speed, cropping regain 7～11%, singe starching after to percentage elongation less than 2.5%, hemp twill cowboy cloth is put in order latitude, 3 °～4 ° 30 at weft yarn inclination angle.
9, shiinkproof finish, 50 meters/minute of cloth speed, cloth regain 9.5～10.5% before contracting, rubber blanket thickness 67mm, drying cylinder air pressure 0.1～0.2MPa heats, pressure-bearing drying cylinder vapour pressure, the little drying cylinder of blanket drying cylinder, big drying cylinder vapour pressure 0.4～0.6MPa, rubber blanket amount of compression 11mm, rubber blanket shrinkage factor 14～16%, blanket percentage elongation 0.5～2.5%, fabric preshrinking rate 11.5～13.5%, cropping regain 4～5%.
Advantage of the present invention:
1, the hempen jean of producing with this manufacture method have antibacterial anticorrosion, press down smelly mildew-resistant, antiultraviolet, health cares such as the anti-width of cloth is penetrated, antistatic have fast, ventilative nice and cool, quick-drying washable, rough bold and unconstrained, the good wearability such as softness is elegant, drapability is good of humidity absorption and release.
2, this manufacture method yarn (line) little breakage in dying the slurry process.The beam of a loom quality is good, can guarantee the hempen jean consistency of colour.In weaving process, fully look after the characteristics that hempen fibre (line) rigidity is big, thick and stiff, humidity absorption and release is fast, reasonable disposition technology and weaving process cross variable, make hempen fibre (line) be in sucting wet state in process of production all the time, guarantee that hempen jean is weaved and the back arrangement is carried out smoothly.
Further narrate below by example:
Twist thread for two strands with the long fine yarn of pure hemp 16Nm and to do warp thread, pure hemp 8.5Nm is short, and weft yarn is done in spinning, adopt woven 16Nm/2 * 8.5Nm 200 * 134150 pure hemp indigo denim manufacture methods of 3/1 twill left to right to be: the 16Nm strand is through ESPERO-F automatic winder network warp, the used splicer of this bobbin winder is the empty twister of water-fog type, model is 492, and weft yarn spins a yarn with the 8.5Nm steam flow, all utilizes nature dead twist method through weft yarn, 30 ℃ of temperature, deposited in the environment of relative temperature 83% 24 hours.Warping G1452A type warping machines, change parallel pressurization into through the axle pressing mechanism, sizing-dyeing combination machine adopts the SALGA382 type, indigo also original nut liquid 1000L volume prescription is: indigo dye (94%) 70kg that indigo dye adopts dyestuff factory, Beijing to produce, sodium hydrosulfite (85%) 110kg, caustic soda (100%) 75kg, CS bleeding agent 5kg, alcohol 4kg.Dying slurry unites with eight tub colorings, each staining bath 1000L, at first in each staining bath, pile water, powder (85%) 2kg and caustic soda 4kg take a policy, ON cycle pump 10 minutes is put into the good reducing solution 38L of reduction in advance by technological requirement in each groove, make dye liquor concentration reach 2.5 grams per liters, temperature is normal temperature (20～25 ℃), continues circulation and can begin dyeing in 5～10 minutes.Pad 20 seconds/time time, oxidization time 2 minutes, last 2.5 minutes together, pick-up 80%, 2.8 tons of nip pressure, dye-uptake 2.6～3.5%, dyed yarn dry by the fire regain 20%, and the rinsing bowl water hardness is suitable low, and water temperature is washed 3 roads for about 40 ℃.Starching is sized mixing to add the water of 10 times of wheat dried starch amounts earlier in boiling still, starts agitator and throws in 50kg wheat dried starch gradually, fully mixes 25 minutes, all stir to starch, heat to 50 ℃ with open steam, measure concentration, concentration is 1.8～2.4Be.The PVA25kg that dissolving in advance is good, oil emulsion 3.5kg, CS bleeding agent 2kg, two naphthol 0.15kg, the adding of auxiliary agents such as an amount of caustic soda is boiled and is stirred in the still, continues to stir and heats to 90 ℃, be incubated 30 minutes～1 hour, after correction slurry solid content, concentration, the viscosity, input supply bucket is standby.The rate of sizing is 3～5%, percentage elongation 0.7%, beam winding density 0.45g/cm
3, 20 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, 98 ℃ of slurry groove temperatures, 1 second soaking paste time.Loom adopts the Suhl longevity, Lv Di P7100 type, and double width is weaved, 285 rev/mins of machines of the speed of a motor vehicle, 16 ° of opening times, back beam height+6mm, warp stop frame height+12mm, 120 ° of the times of throwing a spear, 28 ℃ of 28 ° of workshop temperature of the traverse of throwing a spear, relative temperature 80%.
The equipment of singing adopts the LMH003A-180 gas singeing range, uses fuel to be coal gas, coal gas air pressure 0.25MPa, and air blast air pressure 0.65MPa, 1400 ℃ of flame temperatures, singe once in the cloth front, 40 meters/minute of cloth speed.The wheat dried starch is used in starching, earlier wheat dried starch 45kg is dissolved in 1500 premium on currency, then the good 7kgCS bleeding agent of dissolving in advance, 13kgON-70 softener, 0.15kg two naphthols etc. add together, stir, heat to 95 ℃, be incubated standby after 15 minutes, 70 ℃ of slurry groove temperatures, the rate of sizing 3%, 40 meters/minute of cloth speed, cropping regain 10%, the starching of singing is after to percentage elongation 2.4%, skew weft yarn inclination angle, back 4 ° 15.LMA441A-180 shiinkproof finish combination machine, 45 meters/minute of speed, rubber blanket thickness 67mm are used in shrunk finish, pressure-bearing drying cylinder air pressure 0.45MPa, the drying cylinder vapour pressure of heating 0.15MPa, the little drying cylinder 0.45MPa of blanket drying cylinder, big drying cylinder 0.55MPa, rubber blanket amount of compression 11mm, rubber blanket shrinkage factor 15.5%, blanket percentage elongation 1.6%, fabric preshrinking rate 13%, cloth regain 5%, woven pure hemp indigo denim total tightness degree is 92%.
Claims (5)
1, a kind of hempen jean is weaved and is formed with the long fine yarn (line) of hemp, the short spinning of hemp (line), it is characterized in that:
(1) the long fine yarn (line) of used hemp, hemp content 30～100% in the short spinning of hemp (line),
(2) used hempen fibre (line) line density is 20～No. 300 Tekes,
(3) total tightness degree 40% to 99.5% of hempen jean.
(4) the hempen jean fabric tissue is 1/1,2/1,3/1 and the twill alternative construction,
(5) hempen jean is the true qualities hempen jean, the indigo hempen jean, vulcanizes blue or green hempen jean.
2, a kind of manufacture method of making the described hempen jean of claim 1 is: network warp, dead twist, warping, dyeing and starching, weft twisting, weave, singe and starching, whole latitude (skewing), shiinkproof finish, it is characterized in that:
(1) winder: adopt automatic winder or with water-fog type sky twister, electronic yarn clearer, fixed length device, the non junction yarn of making (line),
(2) warp thread, weft twisting adopt the wet dead twist method of decatize heat or deposit the dead twist method naturally, and the wet dead twist of decatize heat requires steam pressure 0.1MPa to 0.15MPa, 20 to 30 minutes time; Naturally deposit the dead twist method and require 25 to 39 ℃ of indoor temperatures, relative humidity 75% to 83%, 20 to 24 hours time,
(3) warping tension force adopts hightension, and the limit increases by 20% through single thread (line) tension force, warping percentage elongation 0.3～1.0%, and warping is pressurizeed through axle and is used parallel pressurization,
(4) indigo dyeing is normal temperature dyeing, and according to the dark line of color, dyeing, oxidation repeat 3～8 times, through washing 2～3 times, water temperature is 40 ± 2 ℃ or normal temperature then, the flat cylinder reduction potential-900 of indigo dye prereduction～-950mv, 50～55 ℃ of temperature, keep 30 minutes standby
(5) the blue or green dyeing of sulfuration needs first and third, heat in five staining baths, 90～95 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, hempen fibre (line) is wanted boiling-off before the dyeing, add urea when dying the back starching in slurries, amount of urea is 0.2% of hempen fibre (line) weight, at last through washing 2～3 times, water temperature is normal temperature or 40 ± 2 ℃
(6) wheat dried starch, PVA mixed pulp are adopted in starching.PVA content in mixed pulp is 25～100%, and slurry groove temperature is greater than 96 ℃, and rate of sizing fine-count yarn is 8～12%, and middle low count yarn is 6～9%, and line is 3～5%, and percentage elongation is below 1%, regain 7～10%,
(7) weave the employing power of beating up greatly, the outer warp let-off of machine is adopted in the warp let-off, and the loom technological parameter adopts big warp tension, is the high back rest through the position line, and early opening process is weaved 25～30 ℃ of workshop temperature, humidity 75～83%,
(8) only singe around the front 35～60 meters/minute of cloth speed, 1300～1500 ℃ of flame temperatures, 60～70 ℃ of back arrangement starching slurry groove temperatures, the rate of sizing 2～3%, cropping regain 7～11%, 3 °～4 ° 30 at weft yarn inclination angle, whole latitude (skewing) back, singe, starching after to percentage elongation less than 2.5%
(9) shiinkproof finish, cloth regain 9.5～10.5% before contracting, rubber blanket thickness 67mm, humidification drying cylinder air pressure 0.1～0.2MPa, pressure-bearing drying cylinder vapour pressure, the little drying cylinder of blanket drying cylinder, big drying cylinder vapour pressure 0.4～0.6MPa, rubber blanket amount of compression 11mm, rubber blanket shrinkage factor 14～16%, blanket percentage elongation 0.5～2.5%, fabric preshrinking rate 1.3～(3.5%, cropping regain 4～5%.
3, method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that indigo dye reducing solution prescription is as follows: by weight, dye the slurry uniting the prescription be indigo dye: sodium hydrosulfite (85%): caustic soda (100%): bleeding agent: alcohol=1: 1.4～1.7: 1.1～1.3: 0.07: 0.057; The ball warp dyeing recipe is, indigo dye: sodium hydrosulfite (85%): caustic soda (100%): bleeding agent: alcohol=1: 0.85～1.5: 0.8～0.9: 0.057: 0.047, sodium hydrosulfite replenishes the formula of liquid weight ratio, sodium hydrosulfite (85%): caustic soda (100%)=20: 1, temperature is controlled at below 5 °.
4, method according to claim 2, it is as follows to it is characterized in that vulcanizing the blue or green dye formulation that dyes: by weight, sulfuration is blue or green: akali sulphide: sodium bicarbonate: bleeding agent=1: 0.83: 0.1: 0.03, and continuous material technical recipe weight ratio is: sulfuration is blue or green: akali sulphide: sodium bicarbonate: bleeding agent=1: 0.56: 0.05: 0.0125.
5, method according to claim 2, the back back arrangement sizing material that it is characterized in that singing its weight ratio of filling a prescription is: wheaten starch: bleeding agent: softener=1: 0.13: 0.27, heat to 95 ℃, be incubated 15 minutes standby.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN96122301A CN1041760C (en) | 1996-10-11 | 1996-10-11 | Hempen jean and its weaving method |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN96122301A CN1041760C (en) | 1996-10-11 | 1996-10-11 | Hempen jean and its weaving method |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN1160783A true CN1160783A (en) | 1997-10-01 |
| CN1041760C CN1041760C (en) | 1999-01-20 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN96122301A Expired - Fee Related CN1041760C (en) | 1996-10-11 | 1996-10-11 | Hempen jean and its weaving method |
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Cited By (14)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102220683A (en) * | 2011-04-29 | 2011-10-19 | 山西梅花丝麻集团有限公司 | Method for washing hemp jean products |
| CN102277734A (en) * | 2011-07-08 | 2011-12-14 | 郴州湘南麻业有限公司 | Jute yarn plume processing method |
| CN103361820A (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2013-10-23 | 太仓棨淂服装有限公司 | Antibacterial denim fabric |
| CN103603123A (en) * | 2013-11-11 | 2014-02-26 | 绍兴市恒睿无纺布科技有限公司 | High-strength flame-retardant jean and production process and uses thereof |
| CN103668689A (en) * | 2013-12-25 | 2014-03-26 | 苏州曼诚纺织有限公司 | Anti-bacterial deodorization shell fabric |
| CN103952924A (en) * | 2014-05-20 | 2014-07-30 | 湖州思祺服饰染整有限公司 | Hemp and denim active dye and dyeing technology |
| CN104032443A (en) * | 2013-03-04 | 2014-09-10 | 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 | Hemp yarn dyed single-pattern jacquard thread blanket and production process thereof |
| CN104988710A (en) * | 2015-07-20 | 2015-10-21 | 太原理工大学 | Preparation method of anti-shrink silk-linen fabric |
| CN105177811A (en) * | 2015-08-17 | 2015-12-23 | 江苏德利恒棉业有限公司 | Hemp modal fiber denim and production technology thereof |
| CN107201676A (en) * | 2017-07-03 | 2017-09-26 | 蒋暾 | A kind of cellulose base fiber fabric and its colouring method of the oil suction that absorbs water |
| CN108866896A (en) * | 2018-07-25 | 2018-11-23 | 山东兰雁纺织服装有限公司 | A kind of denim setting process |
| CN112012017A (en) * | 2020-09-02 | 2020-12-01 | 佛山市南海利致牛仔布有限公司 | Jean processing technology |
| CN114457599A (en) * | 2022-01-20 | 2022-05-10 | 珠海赫基服饰有限公司 | Jeans with unique style and processing method |
| IT202200013744A1 (en) * | 2022-06-29 | 2023-12-29 | Make In Italy Srl | PROCEDURE AND TOTAL SYSTEM FOR THE PRODUCTION OF HEALTHY TEXTILE PRODUCTS AND/OR PACKAGED GARMENTS FOR THE USER |
Family Cites Families (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN1031518C (en) * | 1993-08-19 | 1996-04-10 | 泰安市大麻纺织科学研究所 | Healthy hemp mat products and production technology |
| CN1034821C (en) * | 1994-09-20 | 1997-05-07 | 泰安市大麻纺织科学研究所 | Silk and bast fiber mixed silk and its production method |
| CN1042960C (en) * | 1995-11-24 | 1999-04-14 | 晋城市纺织厂 | Hemp tow fabrics and weaving technique |
-
1996
- 1996-10-11 CN CN96122301A patent/CN1041760C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (14)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN102220683A (en) * | 2011-04-29 | 2011-10-19 | 山西梅花丝麻集团有限公司 | Method for washing hemp jean products |
| CN102277734A (en) * | 2011-07-08 | 2011-12-14 | 郴州湘南麻业有限公司 | Jute yarn plume processing method |
| CN103361820A (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2013-10-23 | 太仓棨淂服装有限公司 | Antibacterial denim fabric |
| CN104032443A (en) * | 2013-03-04 | 2014-09-10 | 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 | Hemp yarn dyed single-pattern jacquard thread blanket and production process thereof |
| CN103603123A (en) * | 2013-11-11 | 2014-02-26 | 绍兴市恒睿无纺布科技有限公司 | High-strength flame-retardant jean and production process and uses thereof |
| CN103668689A (en) * | 2013-12-25 | 2014-03-26 | 苏州曼诚纺织有限公司 | Anti-bacterial deodorization shell fabric |
| CN103952924A (en) * | 2014-05-20 | 2014-07-30 | 湖州思祺服饰染整有限公司 | Hemp and denim active dye and dyeing technology |
| CN104988710A (en) * | 2015-07-20 | 2015-10-21 | 太原理工大学 | Preparation method of anti-shrink silk-linen fabric |
| CN105177811A (en) * | 2015-08-17 | 2015-12-23 | 江苏德利恒棉业有限公司 | Hemp modal fiber denim and production technology thereof |
| CN107201676A (en) * | 2017-07-03 | 2017-09-26 | 蒋暾 | A kind of cellulose base fiber fabric and its colouring method of the oil suction that absorbs water |
| CN108866896A (en) * | 2018-07-25 | 2018-11-23 | 山东兰雁纺织服装有限公司 | A kind of denim setting process |
| CN112012017A (en) * | 2020-09-02 | 2020-12-01 | 佛山市南海利致牛仔布有限公司 | Jean processing technology |
| CN114457599A (en) * | 2022-01-20 | 2022-05-10 | 珠海赫基服饰有限公司 | Jeans with unique style and processing method |
| IT202200013744A1 (en) * | 2022-06-29 | 2023-12-29 | Make In Italy Srl | PROCEDURE AND TOTAL SYSTEM FOR THE PRODUCTION OF HEALTHY TEXTILE PRODUCTS AND/OR PACKAGED GARMENTS FOR THE USER |
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| CN1041760C (en) | 1999-01-20 |
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