CN1034821C - Silk and bast fiber mixed silk and its production method - Google Patents
Silk and bast fiber mixed silk and its production method Download PDFInfo
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- CN1034821C CN1034821C CN94110791A CN94110791A CN1034821C CN 1034821 C CN1034821 C CN 1034821C CN 94110791 A CN94110791 A CN 94110791A CN 94110791 A CN94110791 A CN 94110791A CN 1034821 C CN1034821 C CN 1034821C
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a silk and hemp interwoven silk fabric which is the silk fabric of a silk type interwoven by mulberry silk and hemp yarn. The interwoven silk of 40 to 180 g/m is interwoven by the mulberry silk of 1.5 to 5D and the hemp fiber of 650 to 1700 Nm. The interweaving modes are various, the interweaving of silk warp and hemp weft, the interweaving of staggered arrangement of the silk and the hemp and the stranded interweaving of the silk and the hemp or the mixed spun interweaving of the silk and the hemp can be realized. The product has the gloss and the soft hand feeling of the mulberry silk, and has the characteristics of the comfortable and smooth hand feeling, stiffness, etc., of the hemp yarn. People wearing the clothes made of the present invention feel comfortable. The problem that the sweat of pure silk can easily be attached to the body is overcome. The present invention has high grade and beautiful appearance, and is suitable for the use of the face fabrics of various clothes in summer.
Description
The invention belongs to the silk textile field, is the improvement technology about sillk ramie union batiste.
Make warp with mulberry silk, the silk fabric class silk fabrics that the dimity interweaves as latitude, the gloss of existing mulberry silk is soft, feel is glutinous soft, and characteristics such as have the feel of the dimity smooth again, well-pressed are " jewel " in the silk product.Just there is the numb intertexture of silk that adopts silkworm long filament and jute yarn to interweave in China from the Ming and Qing times.Because the mulberry silk and the dimity are in the difference of aspects such as washing shrinkage, dyeability, elasticity, feel and ABRASION RESISTANCE, production equipment and technology more complicated are so the production of this based article is restricted with development always.Existing sillk ramie union batiste mainly still with the intertexture of ramie yarn and silk, has not yet to see the sillk ramie union batiste that useful hempen fibre is made into this top grade.
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of production technology that interweaves with hempen fibre and mulberry silk, produce the sillk ramie union batiste of this top grade.
The said sillk ramie union batiste of the present invention is that the hempen fibre with the mulberry silk of 1.5-5D and 650-1700Nm is woven into 40-180 gram/rice
2The silk numb intertexture.Interweave the numb intertexture product of silk of a series of different sizes that can interweave with the hempen fibre of 10-90% (weight %) and the mulberry silk of 90-10% (weight %).Silk fiber crops in the best sillk ramie union batiste are than being the numb intertexture of silk that contains (weight %) hempen fibre 40-60% and contain mulberry silk 60-40%.Here the numb intertexture of said silk can also can use the blending hempen fibre with the hempen fibre of pure hemp spinning, and as the intertexture of cotton ramie blended spinning, the silk fabric class silk goods of making so just contain the intertexture of silk, numb, three kinds of components of cotton.
The deinterleaving method of this sillk ramie union batiste also can have various ways.Generally be to adopt mulberry silk to make warp, be made into interwoven silk as parallel with hempen fibre.Also can with the silk fiber crops be staggered on the parallel interweave or with silk, the blending of fiber crops plying after interweave, the numb intertexture of this silk has merged the double grading of silk fiber crops, the feel that had both had silk, the anti sag property, particularly silk-ramie blended intertexture that have fiber crops again, this silk linen blended yarn, silk wraps in the fiber crops outside, more approach silk on the feel, and the anti sag property aspect more resembles fiber crops, and both performances are merged better.
Be woven into the production technology of sillk ramie union batiste with mulberry silk and hempen fibre, comprise processes such as the giving processing, big hemp spinning yarn, weave of raw silk, back arrangement.Because mulberry silk and hempen fibre have very big-difference at aspects such as washing shrinkage, flexibilities, and contain an amount of colloid in the hempen fibre, an important feature of technology is to weave under big humidity so silk fiber crops of the present invention interweave, and selection humidity is 85-90.Under big like this humidity, weave the intensity that can improve hempen fibre, reduction in the numbers of seconds.
In addition, the hempen fibre rigidity is bigger, more thick and stiff, it is unsuitable excessive to weave the twist, otherwise can cause wiriness, so the twist multiplier that the present invention selects for use the silk fiber crops to interweave is 40-120, its best twist multiplier is 80-100, and select for use the longitude and latitude tightness of 35-60 to weave, and so both improved the sliding sense of body of silk, also improved numb drapability.The sillk ramie union batiste appearance effect that so is woven into is good, takes comfortable.And very refreshing feel arranged.
Another important feature of the present invention is the sillk ramie union batiste that is woven into, be through arrangement process after the functionalization such as expanded, nice and coolization and enzyme processing, with the serviceability of raising fabric.
1, with liquefied ammonia interwoven silk is done expanding treatment.Because NH
3Molecule is less, can be impregnated into the inner hydrogen bond that forms of hemp, makes swelling of fiber, thereby suffered internal stress and the distortion in interleaving process of loose dimity fiber makes product stable, and rigidity increases, and elasticity improves.By ammonia treatment, also make the hemp aggregated structure more help moisture pick-up properties.Because the noncrystalline domain Entropy Changes of fiber increases after ammonia treatment, fiber amorphous region vector reduces, the degree of orientation that molecular link produces and the rigidity of long molecule self become big, and there is stronger polar group etc. in the fiber molecule, all cause hemp that stronger hygroscopicity is arranged, and improved the heat conductivility of fiber, and having improved the gas permeability of hempen fibre, the heat that more helps fabric distributes.
2, degumming of silk arrangement.Contain a large amount of impurity in the undressed sillk ramie union batiste, as silk gum, grease, wax, pigment, inorganic matter and the silk damping slurry that adds when weaving and other greasy dirt etc.These impurity had both influenced the later process of interwoven silk to be handled, and also influences the wearability of final products.By the arrangement of coming unstuck, mainly be to remove impurity in the silk, improve the top grade sense of fabric.
3, complex enzyme is handled.Here said complex enzyme generally is meant the lignin complex enzyme, mainly is to carry out flexibility at the hemp in the interwoven silk to handle.Owing to contain the part lignin in the hemp, make hemp seem stiffening, the fold recovery is poor, and drapability is poor.After handling with the lignin complex enzyme, the lignin complex enzyme can be removed with lignin reaction in the hemp, makes hemp become comparatively soft, does not crease easily, and more approaches some performance of real silk, makes silk become the fusion of performance from generally interweaving with numb.
Sillk ramie union batiste of the present invention is measured through the check of Shandong Province's textile fabric, and its brute force improves more than 46% than pure linen, and wrinkle improve about 27 times than pure linen, and balling-up rises to 4 grades of performances that approach silk fabrics by 2 grades, the results are shown in Table 1:
Table 1 fabric portions performance relatively
| Performance indications | Hemp | The silk fiber crops interweave | Silk fabrics |
| Powerful (N) | 432 | 631 | 542 |
| Wrinkle (degree) are anxious | 93.9 | 223.8 | 281 |
| Slow | 115.6 | 253.8 | 300.2 |
| Regain (%) | 7.1 | 7.8 | 8.2 |
| Balling-up (level) | 2 | 4 | 4-5 |
| Washing shrinkage (%) warp | 4.7 | 7.3 | 6.5 |
| Latitude | 4 | -1.5 | 0.3 |
With an example production technology of the present invention is described further in conjunction with the accompanying drawings more below.
Fig. 1 is the technological process of production figure of sillk ramie union batiste of the present invention;
1, immersing raw silk.The processing method of similar common silk fabrics, the mixture that used soaking agent is made up of dissolved oil, emulsifying wax, softener, neutral soap, hygroscopic agent and preservative agent.Interwoven silk was with 1: 7 bath raio, after the 30-47 degree soaks 20-60 minute, vacuum dehydration 15-20 minute, moisture content is 70 ± 5%, by the effect of soak, makes the raw silk gum softening, eliminate at the angle of will admonishing firmly, and make grease and waxy substance in the soak outside wire body, form film, with flexibility, lubricity, the ABRASION RESISTANCE of increase silk, and reduce the electrostatic interaction that produces because of friction.
2, raw silk typing.A method that adopts the steaming tube to add HEAT SETTING makes molecule rearrange rapidly along the torsion of fibers direction, thereby reaches the purpose of permanent twist.Be placed on the plate steaming tube, again the tube wooden handcart advanced steam box, feed steam, control steam pressure 9.80665 * 10
3Under 90 degree, finalize the design about pa and handled 30-70 minute.
3, the hemp appropriateness is come unstuck.The method of announcing according to CN93112116.7 and CN93115151.1 lashes the raw ramie of hemp and puts into the container that clear water is housed, and adds the saccharomycete of the heavy 1-5% of fiber crops, the water transfer temperature is to the 20-35 degree, pH=5-7 is incubated 24 hours, has at this moment caused the anaerobic bacteria growth conditions.Add cultured pectin decomposing enzyme bacterium liquid, vigor is 200 μ/ml, addition is the heavy 5-20% of fiber crops, temperature adjustment is to 30-65 ℃ of degree, and pH is 7-9, reacts 6-12 hour, the fiber crops of will coming unstuck are then taken out, sodium hydroxide solution with 0.5-2% cleans earlier, cleans to the oven dry of neutral back with clear water again, and the colloid clearance is 70-80%.
4, the spinning of hempen fibre.Press the method that CN93112116.7 announces, the hemp after coming unstuck through system bar, slubbing yarn, gives processing with boiling bleaching liquor again, and wet spinning thereafter becomes the thin hempen fibre of public of 80-100.
5, weave.Mulberry silk with 3/28/30D is made warp thread, and strand twist per unit 80 is twisted with the fingers to S; Hempen fibre with 72 public is made weft yarn, and single twist 60 is twisted with the fingers to Z.At room temperature 25-28 ℃, humidity is weaved with the K251 silk loom more than 85%.Last machine warp count is 38 pieces/centimetre, 34 pieces/centimetre of following machine warp counts; Last machine weft count is 34 pieces/centimetre, 34 pieces/centimetre of following machine weft counts, the silk fiber crops greig that interweaves that is made into, every square metre 98,3 grams.
6, back arrangement.Comprise processes such as swelling of fiber processing, degumming of silk arrangement, complex enzyme processing, its treatment process is:
(1) swelling of fiber is handled.On liquefied ammonia expanding treatment machine,, under speed of a motor vehicle 10-15 rice/mim, soak ammonia 2-4 second at negative pressure 266.644pa.The liquefied ammonia consumption is 0.5 kilogram/meter.Be 1.96 * 10 at steam pressure then
5/ pa, 100 ℃ of oven dry down.
(2) degumming of silk arrangement.With the solution that contains 2 grams per liter soda ash, after handling 40 minutes under 50 ℃, handled 40 minutes with the 270g alkali protease down at 40-50 ℃ again, follow the degumming baths that is made into bubble flower alkali, tertiary sodium phosphate and sodium hydrosulfite, handled 50 minutes down at 100 ℃, wash at last.
(3) complex enzyme is handled.A kind of acid complex enzyme is mainly formulated by lignoenzyme and acetic acid.On the fabric sofetening processor, to handle with above-mentioned acid complex enzyme, the speed of a motor vehicle is 20 meters/minute, bath raio is 1: 20, under 40-50 ℃, handles 120 minutes, dries with 10 meters/minute speed washing back at last.
It is clear thick wide that the sillk ramie union batiste kind fabric of producing like this, the little fabric of washing shrinkage are knitted the road, when adopting the fabric true qualities, the sense that goes back to nature arranged.Compare with pure hemp cloth, not easy to break broken, dangle, and elegant sense is arranged.Fabric of the present invention has the softness of real silk, and directly contacting skin has comfort, the sucting wet air permeability of hemp, pre-hot good advantage is arranged again, and overcome pure silk sweat stain problem easily next to the shin.Fabric of the present invention in addition also has the effect of five kinds of fungies such as killing staphylococcus aureus, pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli, Candida albicans concurrently, so have health care, also has the anti-ultraviolet function of hemp concurrently, so be suitable for the dress in summer most.
Sillk ramie union batiste of the present invention can be used as the lining of high-grade goods such as underwear, nightwear, skirt and bedding.
Claims (4)
1, a kind of sillk ramie union batiste, it is the silk fabric class silk fabrics that is woven into the mulberry silk and the dimity, said sillk ramie union batiste is characterised in that it is the intertexture that is woven into 40-180 gram/rice 2 with the hempen fibre of the mulberry silk of 1.5-5D and 650-1700Nm, and it is formed content (weight %) and is: the hempen fibre of 10-90 and the mulberry silk of 90-10.
2,, it is characterized in that the composition content (weight %) of mulberry silk and hempen fibre is respectively in the sillk ramie union batiste: the hempen fibre of 40-60 and the silk of 60-40 according to the described sillk ramie union batiste of claim 1.
3,, it is characterized in that the numb interleaving mode of said silk comprises warp and latitudinal intertexture, silk-ramie overlapping alignment intertexture, or silk-ramie blended intertexture according to the described sillk ramie union batiste of claim 1.
4, according to the production method of the described sillk ramie union batiste of claim 1, comprise the raw silk preliminary treatment, the hemp appropriateness come unstuck spinning, weave and process such as back arrangement etc., it is characterized in that:
4-1 silk and hempen fibre are to interweave under the 85-90% in humidity;
Longitude and latitude twist multiplier when 4-1-1 silk and hemp interweave is 40-120;
Longitude and latitude tightness when 4-1-2 silk and hemp interweave is 35-60;
4-9 silk fiber crops intertexture, do the back arrangement according to the following steps:
4-2-1 does expanding treatment with liquefied ammonia to interwoven silk;
4-2-2 makes degumming of silk with alkali protease to interwoven silk and handles;
4-2-3 handles interwoven silk with complex enzyme.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN94110791A CN1034821C (en) | 1994-09-20 | 1994-09-20 | Silk and bast fiber mixed silk and its production method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN94110791A CN1034821C (en) | 1994-09-20 | 1994-09-20 | Silk and bast fiber mixed silk and its production method |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1104269A CN1104269A (en) | 1995-06-28 |
| CN1034821C true CN1034821C (en) | 1997-05-07 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN94110791A Expired - Fee Related CN1034821C (en) | 1994-09-20 | 1994-09-20 | Silk and bast fiber mixed silk and its production method |
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| CN (1) | CN1034821C (en) |
Families Citing this family (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1034795C (en) * | 1995-07-11 | 1997-05-07 | 张修杰 | Linen bunchy yarn decorative wall cloth |
| CN1034796C (en) * | 1995-07-11 | 1997-05-07 | 张修杰 | Boiled linen yarn decorative wall cloth |
| CN1042960C (en) * | 1995-11-24 | 1999-04-14 | 晋城市纺织厂 | Hemp tow fabrics and weaving technique |
| CN1041760C (en) * | 1996-10-11 | 1999-01-20 | 晋城市纺织厂 | Hempen jean and its weaving method |
| CN102021725B (en) * | 2010-11-08 | 2013-02-13 | 佛山市奥德服饰有限公司 | Hemp/silkworm (kiginu) silk high-count blended knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN102199830B (en) * | 2011-05-17 | 2013-07-31 | 吴江赴东纺织集团有限公司 | Manufacturing process of bamboo fiber and mulberry silk interwoven color woven taffeta |
| CN103266466B (en) * | 2013-05-25 | 2015-07-15 | 上海秋橙新材料科技有限公司 | Method for pre-treating mulberry noil silk fabric with biological enzyme |
| CN104775222B (en) * | 2015-04-24 | 2016-10-12 | 玖久丝绸股份有限公司 | Big jacquard home textile that polynary mixed yarn and silkworm silk interweave and production method thereof |
| CN104911786A (en) * | 2015-05-26 | 2015-09-16 | 江苏高科物流科技股份有限公司 | Silk and linen interwoven silk and production method thereof |
| CN105054425A (en) * | 2015-07-28 | 2015-11-18 | 南通诚誉服装有限公司 | Aramid composite fabric |
| CN105442151B (en) * | 2016-01-06 | 2017-08-11 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | New ice sense cotton summer sleeping mat and its production method |
| CN106192142B (en) * | 2016-07-16 | 2018-11-27 | 山西绿洲纺织有限责任公司 | A kind of three ingredient interwoven fabric of hemp and its production method |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1083877A (en) * | 1992-12-05 | 1994-03-16 | 如皋市纺织厂 | Air spinning silk-cotton interwoven denim and production method thereof |
| CN1091483A (en) * | 1993-08-19 | 1994-08-31 | 泰安市大麻纺织科学研究所 | Healthy hemp mat products and production technology |
-
1994
- 1994-09-20 CN CN94110791A patent/CN1034821C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1083877A (en) * | 1992-12-05 | 1994-03-16 | 如皋市纺织厂 | Air spinning silk-cotton interwoven denim and production method thereof |
| CN1091483A (en) * | 1993-08-19 | 1994-08-31 | 泰安市大麻纺织科学研究所 | Healthy hemp mat products and production technology |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN1104269A (en) | 1995-06-28 |
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