CN116024718A - High-air-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
High-air-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing fabrics, and provides a high-air-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the method comprises the following steps: weaving with the anti-penetration yarn with a twist coefficient of 150-300 as warp yarn and/or weft yarn, and performing relaxation decrement processing with a decrement rate of 15-25% until the curliness of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is more than 20%; the gram weight of the fabric is less than or equal to 170g/m 2 The permeability resistance is more than or equal to 90 percent, and the ventilation quantity>1000mm/s, and the drapability is more than or equal to 30 percent. According to the high-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric and the preparation method thereof, provided by the invention, the influence of the whole yarn weaving and dyeing process on the fabric performance is newly conceived, and the prepared high-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric is highCompared with the existing light and thin anti-permeation fabric, the breathable light and thin anti-permeation fabric is light and thin in texture, good in anti-permeation performance, high in breathability and drapability, capable of being used as a garment fabric, and particularly suitable for a spring and summer garment fabric.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing fabrics, relates to a woven fabric and a preparation method thereof, and in particular relates to a high-ventilation light-weight anti-permeation fabric and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the development of economy, the requirements of people on clothes are not limited to shielding cold protection, and the requirements on functionality and comfort are higher and higher. Among them, in the case of the spring and summer clothing, consumers demand light, thin, anti-penetration and anti-ultraviolet effects, and particularly, the demand for anti-penetration is more and more prominent, because the problem of exposing the underwear and the contour of the human body occurs due to poor anti-penetration, which affects the aesthetic appearance of the wear. Moreover, most of the sun protection aims at preventing ultraviolet rays, and some literature researches report that visible light has certain influence or damage on skin, so that skin aging is caused, and freckle, pigmentation and other phenomena are generated. When the clothing has good anti-permeability, the effect of shielding ultraviolet rays and visible light is better, so that the fabric needs excellent anti-permeability. However, for grammage 200g/m 2 For the light and thin type spring and summer clothing fabric, the improvement difficulty of the permeability resistance is very high, and as disclosed in patent application CN113265741A, the light and thin permeability-resistant fabric comprises warp yarns, first weft yarns and second weft yarns, wherein one warp yarn is shared by the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns; wherein, the warp contains 5 to 15 mass percent of inorganic particles; the inorganic particles are selected from one or more of titanium dioxide, silicon oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium carbonate and barium sulfate; the first weft is elastic yarn; the second weft is cotton yarn. The prepared fabric is light and thin in texture, good in permeability resistance, light and dry in hand feeling and good in drapability, can be used as a fashion fabric, and is particularly suitable for spring and summer fashion fabrics. Unfortunately, the fabric in this patent application has insufficient air permeability, and the air permeability is only 50-100 mm/s, which is still a great distance from the high air permeability required by the market, and the invention is proposed in view of this.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a fabric and a preparation method thereof, which are used for solving the defect that the air permeability of a light and thin anti-permeation fabric is difficult to improve in the prior art, and the preparation of the light and thin anti-permeation fabric with high air permeability is realized by controlling raw material yarns, a decrement rate in relaxation decrement processing and the crimp degree of yarns on the fabric.
For the finished fabric, the organic combination of yarn weaving and dyeing is adopted, and the properties of yarn raw materials can be changed after weaving and dyeing and finishing processing. This also makes the adjustment of the fabric properties more complex and diversified during the development of the actual product. For general fabrics, it is considered that the air permeability is inevitably reduced to improve the air permeability, but the present invention unexpectedly finds that the air permeability and the air permeability are not incompatible through a great deal of researches on how to improve the performance of the light and thin air permeability fabric, which is very critical for guiding how to improve the air permeability of the light and thin air permeability fabric.
Specifically, the present invention provides a woven fabric comprising: weaving with the anti-penetration yarn with a twist coefficient of 150-300 as warp yarn and/or weft yarn, and performing relaxation decrement processing with a decrement rate of 15-25% until the curliness of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is more than 20%;
the gram weight of the fabric is less than or equal to 170g/m 2 The permeability resistance is more than or equal to 90 percent, and the ventilation quantity>1000mm/s, the drapability is more than or equal to 30%; the fabric has the characteristics of high air permeability, light weight, penetration resistance and good drapability.
In order to ensure that the fabric has good light, thin and anti-penetration characteristics, the covering coefficient of the fabric is generally required to be ensured not to be too low, otherwise, the gaps between yarns are increased, the anti-penetration effect is reduced, but the covering coefficient is too high, and the air permeability is greatly influenced. On the other hand, in order to achieve a dry and drapable feel of the fabric, it is generally necessary to twist the yarn, but the twisted yarn also causes the gaps between the fibers to become larger due to twisting of its own torque, and the light-shielding property to be deteriorated and the permeability to be deteriorated, as in patent application CN113265741a, although the method of controlling the twist of the warp yarn to be equal to or greater than 800T/M (especially 800 to 1500T/M) and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn to be staggered is adopted, the fabric is made to achieve both the permeability resistance and the dry and drapable feel, but the ideal effect of high air permeability is not achieved.
The invention particularly pays attention to the inherent relation between the permeability resistance and the air permeability in the research and development process, and particularly, the core of the permeability resistance is concerned about how light passes through the fabric, and the core of the air permeability is how air passes through the fabric. The relationship with the fabric is also quite different in view of the fact that light and gas belong to two quite different media. In the fabric designed by the invention, the yarn with good permeability resistance is selected, the twist coefficient of the yarn is improved to 150-300, the curling degree of the warp yarn and the weft yarn on the fabric is ensured to be more than 20% while the relaxation decrement processing with the decrement rate of 15-25%, the twisting shrinkage effect and the relaxation decrement processing generated under the high twist coefficient are utilized to ensure that the structural change of the fibers in the yarn and the specific curling structure of the warp yarn and the weft yarn realize the balance of the permeability resistance and the air permeability, the permeability resistance of the fabric with the gram weight of less than or equal to 170g/, the air permeability of more than or equal to 90 mm/s is obtained, in addition, the drapability of the fabric is obviously improved, and the drapability of the fabric is more than or equal to 30%.
Preferably, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are anti-penetration yarns with a twist multiplier of 150-300, and further preferably, the twist multiplier is 180-250;
it has also been found in experiments that if the reduction rate in the relaxation reduction process is further increased to 22% to 25%, the air permeability and drapeability of the resulting fabric are further improved.
The crimping degree in the present invention means: the yarns interweave with each other so that the warp and weft yarns are wavy or curled, and thus the distance between the ends of the yarns (such as warp) in the fabric is less than the length of the yarns after the yarns straighten, and the yarn curl is determined by the difference between the two ends.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the penetration-proof yarn at least comprises a yarn with the inorganic particle content of 3-20wt%;
the yarns with the inorganic particle content of 3-20wt% comprise delustering yarns with the inorganic particle content of 3-7wt%, sheath-core structure penetration-preventing yarns with the inorganic particle content of 8-20wt% or laminated structure penetration-preventing yarns with the inorganic particle content of 8-20wt%; wherein the inorganic particles are positioned in a core layer of the skin-core structure permeation-preventing yarn or in a middle layer of the laminated structure permeation-preventing yarn;
preferably, the permeation-preventing yarn at least comprises a yarn having an inorganic particle content of 5 to 15 wt%.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the inorganic particles are more than one of titanium dioxide, silicon oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium carbonate and barium sulfate; titanium dioxide is further preferable because titanium dioxide is advantageous in terms of scattering effect on light, safety, stability, dispersibility, and the like.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the penetration-proof yarns are penetration-proof composite yarns formed by yarns with the inorganic particle content of 3-20wt% and other yarns; the other yarns are elastic yarns or high-shrinkage yarns with boiling water shrinkage rate of more than 20%;
in experiments, it is found that when the anti-permeability composite yarn is adopted, on the premise of ensuring the anti-permeability, the air permeability improving effect is more remarkable, because after the fabric is subjected to dyeing and finishing wet-heat processing treatment, the morphology of the elastic yarn or the high-shrinkage yarn with boiling water shrinkage rate of more than 20% in the fabric can be greatly changed, particularly the elastic effect of the elastic yarn and the shrinkage effect of the high-shrinkage yarn can lead the yarn containing inorganic particles to curl to a certain degree, the light can be effectively blocked, channels for gas to enter and exit can be enriched, and the elastic yarn is further preferred.
Preferably, in the penetration-preventing composite yarn, the yarn with the inorganic particle content of 3-20wt% is a sheath-core penetration-preventing yarn or a laminated penetration-preventing yarn, and the other yarns are elastic yarns. The composite form of the skin-core structure permeation-preventing yarn or the laminated structure permeation-preventing yarn can realize the maximization of the titanium dioxide content. For example, the sheath-core structure, the inorganic particles are mainly concentrated in the core, which is beneficial to weaving and braiding, and can reduce friction of yarns on healds, reeds and needles. The lamination mechanism, i.e., the multilayer composite structure, has the inorganic particles mainly concentrated in the intermediate layer, and the lamination result is more excellent in reflection and scattering effects on light than the core-sheath structure and the like, in the case of containing the inorganic particles in the same weight ratio.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the elastic yarn is selected from more than one of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, polypropylene terephthalate fiber, polyamide fiber, spandex and lycra. Such as PBT (polybutylene terephthalate fiber ) elastic yarn, PET/PBT (polyethylene terephthalate fiber) bicomponent yarn, spandex elastic yarn, lycra elastic yarn.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the texture of the fabric is single-sided texture or heavy texture;
the single-sided weave includes a plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave, or a variation thereof;
the reorganization comprises warp double organization, weft double organization or a change organization thereof.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the weave of the woven fabric is twill weave, satin weave or random weave, and more preferably random weave.
When the woven fabric of the invention is woven, the weave structure of the fabric is generally determined based on the style and the hand feeling of the required fabric as main reference basis, and the air-permeable light and thin anti-permeation fabric in the invention is found in experiments that the fabric with the 3/1 twill weave structure has better anti-permeation performance, but the fabric with the random twill weave structure is more excellent from the aspect of air permeation performance.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the fabric coverage coefficient is less than or equal to 3000, and is preferably 1500-2600.
The fabric cover factor (cover factor of fabric), also known as fabric tightness, is one of the fabric structural parameters, which is a parameter indicative of the size of the interstices between the yarns in the fabric. The fabric coverage coefficient is the sum of the warp coverage coefficient and the weft coverage coefficient of the fabric. The fabric covering coefficient is determined by the raw material yarns and the warp and weft densities of the fabric, which also affects the crimping degree of the yarns in the fabric to a certain extent, and when the high-permeability light-weight and thin-permeation-resistant fabric is actually prepared, the structure, the weave structure, the relaxation decrement processing and the fabric covering coefficient of the raw material yarns can be combined to jointly adjust various performances of the fabric.
According to the woven fabric provided by the invention, the penetration-proof yarns with the twist coefficient of 150-300 comprise S-twist yarns and Z-twist yarns, and the S-twist yarns and the Z-twist yarns are staggered. The twist coefficient of the anti-penetration yarn is higher, the anti-penetration property and the air permeability of the high-air-permeability light and thin anti-penetration fabric can be optimized by further arranging the yarns with different twisting directions, and the S-twist yarn and the Z-twist yarn are preferably arranged and arranged to be 2:2 for weaving when the metric twist coefficient of the warp and the weft is 180-250.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the woven fabric, which comprises the following steps: weaving the anti-penetration yarns with the twist coefficient of 150-300 as warp yarns and/or weft yarns, and performing relaxation decrement processing with the decrement rate of 15-25% until the curliness of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is more than 20%, thereby obtaining the woven fabric.
According to the high-ventilation light and thin anti-penetration fabric and the preparation method thereof, the influence of the whole yarn weaving and dyeing process on the fabric performance is newly conceived, and the anti-penetration yarn with the twist coefficient of 150-300 is adopted as warp yarn and/or weft yarn for weaving, and the woven fabric with the crimp degree of the warp yarn and the weft yarn being more than 20% is obtained through relaxation decrement processing with the decrement rate of 15-25%, so that compared with the existing light and thin anti-penetration fabric, the prepared high-ventilation light and thin anti-penetration fabric is light and thin in texture, good in anti-penetration performance, high in ventilation and drapability, and can be used as a garment fabric, and is particularly suitable for the garment fabric in spring and summer.
Detailed Description
For the purpose of making the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the technical solutions of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is apparent that the described embodiments are some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.
The specific techniques or conditions are not identified in the examples and are described in the literature in this field or are carried out in accordance with the product specifications. The reagents or equipment used were conventional products available for purchase by regular vendors without the manufacturer's attention.
Example 1
A preparation method of a high-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) Raw material preparation:
penetration-proof yarn: the PET/PBT bicomponent yarn and the sheath-core structure permeation-preventing yarn with the titanium dioxide content of 10 weight percent form a permeation-preventing composite yarn, and the fineness is 90D.
(2) Weaving: the penetration-proof composite yarn is used as warp yarn and weft yarn, the design organization structure is a random hemp organization, the metric twist coefficients of the warp yarn and the weft yarn are all 250, and the S twist yarn and the Z twist yarn are arranged and arranged in a ratio of 2:2, so that the grey cloth is obtained by weaving.
The embodiment also provides a dyeing and finishing method of the breathable light and thin anti-penetration fabric, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Steaming, baking and untwisting the obtained grey cloth for 20min at 90 ℃ in a loose type scouring machine, and then performing alkali deweighting treatment; wherein the alkali decrement treatment has a decrement rate of 22%;
(2) Dyeing the fabric subjected to alkali deweighting treatment in a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine at 110 ℃ for 20min, dyeing at 130 ℃ for 30min, washing in a high-temperature high-pressure rotary cage washing machine at 120 ℃ for 30min, washing in a second time at 40 ℃, and finally finishing and shaping at 170 ℃ for 25min.
The high-permeability light and thin anti-penetration fabric with the warp and weft densities of 126/inch 86/inch, the warp yarn crimp degree of 42% and the weft yarn crimp degree of 36% is obtained.
Example 2
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the anti-penetration composite yarn formed by the high shrinkage yarn and the skin-core structure anti-penetration yarn with the titanium dioxide content of 10wt% is used as warp yarn and weft yarn, and the high-permeability light and thin anti-penetration fabric with the warp yarn crimp degree of 35% and the weft yarn crimp degree of 28% is obtained, wherein the warp yarn and weft yarn density is 133/inch x 92/inch.
Example 3
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the weaving process is characterized in that a 3/1 twill weave structure is designed, and the high-ventilation light-weight anti-penetration fabric with the warp and weft densities of 155/inch x 78/inch, the warp curling degree of 35% and the weft curling degree of 24% is obtained.
Example 4
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the common twist coefficient of warp and weft is 150 in weaving, and the high-ventilation light and thin anti-penetration fabric with 136 warps/inch and 94 warps/inch, warp curling degree of 38% and weft curling degree of 28% is obtained.
Example 5
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: setting the decrement rate of alkali decrement treatment to be 15% in the dyeing and finishing step (1), and obtaining the high-ventilation light-weight and thin-permeation-resistant fabric with 136 warps/inch-92 warps/inch, 32 warp curls and 28 weft curls.
Example 6
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the yarn raw material with the fineness of 50D is adopted as warp yarn and weft yarn, and the common twist coefficient of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is 186 in weaving, so that the high-permeability light and thin anti-penetration fabric with the warp yarn and weft yarn density of 178 yarns/inch 118 yarns/inch, the warp yarn curling degree of 40% and the weft yarn curling degree of 34% is obtained.
Example 7
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the yarn raw material with the fineness of 150D is adopted as warp yarn and weft yarn, the metric twist coefficients of the warp yarn and the weft yarn are 232 in weaving, and the high-permeability light and thin anti-penetration fabric with the warp yarn and the weft yarn having the warp yarn density of 108 yarns/inch of 68 yarns/inch, the warp yarn crimp degree of 38 percent and the weft yarn crimp degree of 36 percent is obtained.
Example 8
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the skin-core structure permeation-preventing yarn with the titanium dioxide content of 10wt% is adopted as warp yarn and weft yarn, and the high-permeability light and thin permeation-preventing fabric with the warp yarn and weft yarn density of 138 yarns/inch 108 yarns/inch, the warp yarn curling degree of 28 percent and the weft yarn curling degree of 23 percent is obtained.
Comparative example 1
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: the common twist coefficient of warp and weft is 130 in weaving, and the high-ventilation light and thin anti-penetration fabric with 136 warps/inch and 94 warps/inch, warp curling degree of 25% and weft curling degree of 16% is obtained.
Comparative example 2
The process for preparing the high-permeability light-weight anti-permeation fabric is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the only difference is that: setting the alkali decrement rate of 8% in the dyeing and finishing step (1), and obtaining the high-ventilation light-weight and thin-permeation-preventing fabric with 136 warps/inch x 92 warps/inch, 28 warp and 18 weft.
The fabrics produced in examples 1 to 8 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were tested as follows:
the test standard of the crimp degree is GB/T29256.3-2012 (determination of yarn shrinkage in the fabric of the 3 rd part of the fabric structure analysis method of the woven fabric of the textile), wherein the test value of the crimp degree is used as the value of the crimp degree;
the air permeability test standard is GB/T5453-1997 determination of air permeability of textile fabrics.
The test results are shown in the following table:
finally, it should be noted that: the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention, and are not limiting; although the invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical scheme described in the foregoing embodiments can be modified or some technical features thereof can be replaced by equivalents; such modifications and substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A woven fabric is characterized in that an anti-penetration yarn with a twist coefficient of 150-300 is used as warp yarn and/or weft yarn for weaving, and the woven fabric is obtained after the warp yarn and the weft yarn are subjected to relaxation decrement processing with a decrement rate of 15-25% until the curliness of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is more than 20%;
the gram weight of the fabric is less than or equal to 170g/m 2 The permeability resistance is more than or equal to 90 percent, and the ventilation quantity>1000mm/s, and the drapability is more than or equal to 30 percent.
2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the permeation-preventing yarn comprises at least one yarn having an inorganic particle content of 3 to 20 wt%;
the yarns with the inorganic particle content of 3-20wt% comprise delustering yarns with the inorganic particle content of 3-7wt%, sheath-core structure penetration-preventing yarns with the inorganic particle content of 8-20wt% or laminated structure penetration-preventing yarns with the inorganic particle content of 8-20wt%; wherein the inorganic particles are positioned in a core layer of the skin-core structure permeation-preventing yarn or in a middle layer of the laminated structure permeation-preventing yarn;
preferably, the permeation-preventing yarn at least comprises a yarn having an inorganic particle content of 5 to 15 wt%.
3. The woven fabric according to claim 2, wherein the inorganic particles are one or more of titanium dioxide, silicon oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium carbonate, and barium sulfate; titanium dioxide is further preferred.
4. A woven fabric according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the permeation-preventing yarn is a permeation-preventing composite yarn composed of a yarn having the inorganic particle content of 3 to 20wt% and other yarns; the other yarns are elastic yarns or high-shrinkage yarns with boiling water shrinkage rate of more than 20%;
preferably, in the penetration-preventing composite yarn, the yarn with the inorganic particle content of 3-20wt% is a sheath-core penetration-preventing yarn or a laminated penetration-preventing yarn, and the other yarns are elastic yarns.
5. The woven fabric of claim 4, wherein the elastic yarn is selected from more than one of polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, polypropylene terephthalate fibers, polyamide fibers, spandex, and lycra.
6. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the weave of the fabric is a single sided weave or a heavy weave;
the single-sided weave includes a plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave, or a variation thereof;
the reorganization comprises warp double organization, weft double organization or a change organization thereof.
7. The woven fabric according to claim 6, wherein the weave of the fabric is a twill weave, a satin weave or a random weave, further preferably a random weave.
8. A woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fabric cover factor is equal to or less than 3000, preferably 1500 to 2600.
9. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the permeation preventing yarn having a twist multiplier of 150 to 300 comprises S-twist yarn and Z-twist yarn, and the S-twist yarn and Z-twist yarn are staggered.
10. A method for producing a woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising: weaving the anti-penetration yarns with the twist coefficient of 150-300 as warp yarns and/or weft yarns, and performing relaxation decrement processing with the decrement rate of 15-25% until the curliness of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is more than 20%, thereby obtaining the woven fabric.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN202211635038.7A CN116024718A (en) | 2022-12-19 | 2022-12-19 | High-air-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN202211635038.7A CN116024718A (en) | 2022-12-19 | 2022-12-19 | High-air-permeability light and thin anti-permeation fabric and preparation method thereof |
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