CN115887286A - Composition for thickening and cosmetic - Google Patents
Composition for thickening and cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN115887286A CN115887286A CN202211475496.9A CN202211475496A CN115887286A CN 115887286 A CN115887286 A CN 115887286A CN 202211475496 A CN202211475496 A CN 202211475496A CN 115887286 A CN115887286 A CN 115887286A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- skin
- oil
- lips
- composition
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 49
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- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
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- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000020234 walnut Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012463 white pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010457 zeolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011576 zinc lactate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940050168 zinc lactate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000000193 zinc lactate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000004711 α-olefin Substances 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition for thickening comprising a solid oil and a rheology aid comprising at least two of ethylcellulose, dextrin palmitate and tribehenate. The invention also relates to a cosmetic product comprising said composition.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a thickening composition and a cosmetic containing the thickening composition. The composition is suitable for use in the fields of cosmetics, dermatology, pharmacology and hygiene. The cosmetic is suitable for caring for and/or making up human facial and body skin, mucosa, lip and inner lower eyelid, or body surface growth such as eyelash, eyebrow, nail and hair.
Background
This section provides background information related to the present application which does not necessarily form the prior art.
The existing lip care products comprise lip balm and lip balm, and the main functions of the lip care products comprise: firstly, protecting the lips, decorating the color of the lips and helping to remove dead skin of the lips; and secondly, the base can be used as a base, so that the lipstick is more moist when being coated, and helps to modify makeup. However, the prior lip care product has the following technical problems:
1. the lip balm belongs to a rod-shaped structure, and can be easily broken if the application method is not noticed during smearing; if the hardness of the lip balm is too hard, the experience feeling of a user is influenced, and the moistening degree is not enough; if the hardness of the lip balm is too soft, the lip balm can be easily melted when the ambient temperature is high, and the lip balm is not easy to store.
2. The existing lip oil is basically a full-oil system, and the products usually comprise oil phase thickening agents (such as synthetic grease, wax base and the like), preservatives and essences, and the products are greasy and stuffy and are easy to appear in a pig oil mouth; there are also lip oil with better fluidity, but if the sealing performance of the packing material is not good, leakage is easy to cause; the lip oil with higher viscosity is easy to have wire drawing, and the condition of wire drawing can occur after the lip is closed to the mouth, so that a user can feel uneven in coating;
3. existing lip care products, when applied to the lips, have the disadvantage of being transferable, that is to say, at least partially depositing and leaving marks on some of the substances with which they may come into contact, such as on glass, cups, cigarettes, some clothing or the skin. This results in poor retention of the coating film and frequent application of the lip care product. Furthermore, the existing lip care products have a tendency to migrate, i.e. to spread in the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin around the lips, causing undesirable effects;
4. the application of existing lip care products to the lips leaves a film on the lips which is uncomfortable (dry and tight feel) over time.
Description of the terms
The term "solid oil" is understood to mean any non-aqueous medium which is not a liquid or semi-solid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure.
The term "liquid oil" is understood to mean a non-solid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressureAny non-aqueous medium. The liquid oil component may comprise a volatile liquid fatty phase and/or a non-volatile fatty phase, wherein "volatile fatty phase" is understood to mean a non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips in less than 1 hour, the volatile phase comprising in particular a volatile phase having a temperature of 10 at room temperature and atmospheric pressure -3 To a vapor pressure of 300mmHg (0.13 Pa-40000 Pa).
The term "HLB" refers to an index indicating the balance between hydrophilicity and lipophilicity expressed by a value of 0 to 20, and closer to 0 indicates higher lipophilicity, and closer to 20 indicates higher hydrophilicity, and the HLB described in the present invention is a numerical value calculated by Griffin's method (HLB value = sum of formula weights of 20 × hydrophilic portion/molecular weight).
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the technical problems of the prior art, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic product which is suitable for application to the skin, in particular the lips, of the human face and body. The cosmetic makes it possible to obtain a film which is glossy, has good staying power, transfers little or no at all, and is comfortable both in use and with makeup throughout the day. The cosmetic forms a film which is particularly soft and smooth and which has little or no transfer properties, or a glossy or less glossy appearance, even after a certain pressure and friction, is suitable for washing by the user, and which does not migrate, and which does not dry out on the skin or on the lips used, whether in use or after a long time. In addition, it has been found that the cosmetic of the invention exhibits a considerably superior dispersion quality and adhesion properties to the skin, semi-mucous membranes or mucous membranes, and also a smooth and good tactile sensation. The compositions of the present invention have the further advantage of being easy to remove makeup, in particular using conventional makeup removers. This is particularly true because the removal of makeup from compositions of the prior art having high "transfer-free" properties is difficult.
Another subject of the invention is a composition for thickening, the above-mentioned cosmetic products containing this composition, which imparts to the cosmetic products a "custard-like" appearance, giving the user a feeling of experience of novel appearance and a pleasant sensation of use.
Another subject of the invention is a method for cosmetically caring for or making up the lips or the skin, which comprises applying the cosmetic composition described above to the lips or the skin.
Another subject of the present invention is a method for limiting or even eliminating the transfer of a cosmetic product for making up or caring for the skin or the lips to the skin and to the objects external to the lips, comprising the preparation of the cosmetic product using a composition as described above in admixture with a liquid oil component.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a composition for thickening comprising a solid oil and a rheology aid.
The solid oil is a component commonly used as a cosmetic, such as wax.
The rheological aid includes at least two of ethyl cellulose, dextrin palmitate and Sanshan Shujing.
Due to the synergistic effect of the solid oil and the rheological aid, the amount of the composition used can be significantly reduced as compared with the amount of the conventional polymer thickener added to the solid or gel cosmetic raw material.
The cosmetic containing the composition of the present invention can realize no fluidity at normal temperature (25 ℃) and normal pressure (1 atm) without adding other polymer thickeners. The shape of the cosmetic containing the composition of the present invention which can be formed is not particularly limited, and specific examples of the shape include a stick, a bar, a plate, a shape molded by filling a container, and the like. The addition of the composition of the present invention to these various cosmetics can be carried out according to a usual method, for example, by heating the composition to a temperature not lower than the melting point, uniformly mixing the composition, and then adding the composition to the cosmetics in a molten state.
A cosmetic product comprising:
(A) The composition;
(B) Liquid oil content;
(C) A surfactant;
(D) And (4) an aqueous phase component.
Wherein the content of the component (A) is not less than 4% by weight and not more than 15% by weight based on the mass of the cosmetic, within this range, the cosmetic formulated with the composition can be uniformly gelled, and also the occurrence of flaking and dripping of the cosmetic can be reduced, and the feeling of use of the cosmetic can be improved. It has been unexpectedly found that the cosmetic containing the component (A) does not cause surface separation, sweating, cracking, etc. due to changes in conditions such as temperature, humidity, etc.
Wherein said component (B) can consist of cosmetically, dermatologically acceptable oils and generally physiologically acceptable oils, in particular carbon-containing, hydrocarbon-containing, fluorinated and/or mineral silicone oils chosen from mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic sources, used alone or in mixtures insofar as they form homogeneous stable mixtures and are compatible with the intended use. The component (B) comprises a non-volatile fraction and preferably one or more oils volatile at room temperature are used. These volatile oils are advantageous for the production of a complete "transfer-free" film of the cosmetic. After evaporation of these oils, a soft and non-sticky film-like deposit is obtained on the skin or mucous membranes as the cosmetic moves on the skin or lips to which it is applied. In addition, these essential oils are useful for applying cosmetics to the skin, mucous membranes and superficial body growths. The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-containing volatile oil, or a silicone oil optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, wherein the alkyl or alkoxy groups may be on the silicone side chain or at the end of the silicone chain.
Wherein the content of the component (D) is not less than 5wt% and not more than 20wt% based on the mass of the cosmetic, within this range, the cosmetic formulated with the aqueous phase component improves moisturizing efficacy, thereby achieving moisturizing, mild moisturizing and no irritation.
Wherein the component (C) and the component (D) are brought into a solubilized state, that is, a state in which an oily component is present as a dispersion medium and the component (C) and the component (D) are reversed micelles. As a result, the component (C) is easily dissolved in the oil agent formed of the component (a) and the component (B), and separation and precipitation of the component (C) do not occur even after long-term storage, and the storage stability is improved. Particularly, when the content of the component (D) is 5 to 20% by weight, the effect is remarkable.
The cosmetic products of the invention may additionally comprise one or more cosmetic or dermatological active substances, such as those conventionally used. Cosmetic, dermatological, hygiene or pharmaceutical active substances which can be used in the cosmetics according to the invention are to be mentioned moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, or sunscreens. These active substances are used in amounts customary to those skilled in the art. Depending on the intended use, the cosmetic products according to the invention may additionally comprise the ingredients customary in the chosen field, which are present in amounts suitable for the desired pharmaceutical dosage form.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic is applied to the lips for protecting the lips, the cosmetic has good coverage, the formed film is more uniform than a conventional lipstick or lip oil, the cosmetic effect is satisfactory, the film is smooth, and the comfort after use is satisfactory. Transfer properties were studied by comparison of kisses on filter paper 2 minutes after half-lipped use. For all women tested, the transfer was considered to be very insignificant compared to the lipstick or lip balm of the prior art.
In one embodiment, from the viewpoint of improving the stability and the use experience of the cosmetic, the cosmetic contains the following components in the following proportions (based on the mass of the cosmetic):
1-5wt% of a solid oil;
3-10wt% of a rheological aid;
60-88wt% of a liquid oil component;
1-5wt% of a surfactant
5-20wt% of an aqueous phase component;
0-1wt% of a colorant;
0.1-3wt% of an auxiliary agent.
The liquid oil content of the cosmetic makes it possible, among other things, to form a film on the skin, lips and/or mucous membranes, which forms a network capable of retaining colorants (including fillers) and/or active substances. Depending on the amount of colorant used relative to the stable liquid oil, films with more or less gloss and more or less non-transfer properties can be obtained.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme of the invention has at least the following beneficial effects:
1. the cosmetic of the present invention is in a gel state, and therefore, there is no problem of dripping and easy bleeding of a liquid or semisolid cosmetic, the cosmetic is excellent in ease of rinsing and refreshing feeling after rinsing, and is excellent in stability of quality;
2. the cosmetic can be coated on the lips to beautify and maintain or make up the lips, solves the defects that the lip balm is easy to break and is difficult to store, and also solves the problems that the existing lip balm is greasy, heavy, stuffy and easy to produce a lard nipple;
3. compared with the existing lip balm, the cosmetic disclosed by the invention can avoid the phenomenon of wire drawing, presents a novel 'milk jelly-shaped' appearance, and brings experience feeling of novel appearance and comfortable use feeling to a user;
4. the aqueous phase component contained in the cosmetic of the present invention may employ a combination of deionized water and polyhydric alcohol (e.g., glycerin, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, etc.), and various plant extracts may be added according to desired effects, thereby reducing greasy feeling and satisfying user's experience.
The following description is given with reference to specific examples.
Drawings
The figures further illustrate the invention, but the examples in the figures do not constitute any limitation of the invention.
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the mean values of the moisture content of the stratum corneum of lips skin of 30 subjects at different time points in a moisturizing-type test on the cosmetic provided in example 3.
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the rate of change of moisture content in the stratum corneum of lips skin at different time points in 30 subjects who performed the moisturizing-type test on the cosmetic provided in example 3.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the mean moisture content of the stratum corneum of lips skin of 30 subjects at different time points in a moisturizing-type test on the cosmetic provided in example 4.
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the rate of change of moisture content in the stratum corneum of the lips skin of 30 subjects at different time points in a moisturizing-type test on the cosmetic provided in example 4.
Detailed Description
It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and do not limit the invention.
The invention provides a composition for thickening, comprising a solid oil and a rheological aid.
The invention also provides a cosmetic containing the composition, which comprises the following components:
(A) Solid oil content;
(B) A rheology aid;
(C) Liquid oil content;
(D) A surfactant;
(E) And (4) an aqueous phase component.
[ solid oil component ]
In the present invention, the solid oil component is an oil which is solid at normal temperature (25 ℃) and has a melting point of 50 to 120 ℃. When the melting point is too low, the liquid oil component cannot be uniformly gelled, and the cosmetic is liquefied by vibration or impact during transportation or carrying of the cosmetic, or the shape retention is poor, and the gel state shape cannot be maintained. On the other hand, if the melting point is too high, the cosmetic becomes hard and finger-picking property is deteriorated during use, and further, since handling at high temperature is required during melting, the rheology auxiliary agent and the liquid oil component are easily deteriorated by oxidation. Specific examples of the solid oil include: paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite (Ceresin), ozokerite (Ozokerite), hydrocarbon waxes such as Fischer-Tropsch wax, wood wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, beeswax (pearl wax), hydrogenated jojoba oil, hardened oil, higher alcohols, and silicone wax. Since the gel-state cosmetic is prepared, it is required to maintain the composition in a molten state for a long time. Therefore, as the solid oil component, a wax excellent in stability against oxidation during heating is preferable, and specifically, a microcrystalline wax is preferably used.
The solid oil may be selected from a single compound, or two or more compounds may be suitably used in combination. The content of the solid oil is preferably 1 to 5wt% based on the mass of the cosmetic, and when the content of the solid oil is too small, the shape retention property becomes insufficient and the solid oil is too soft, and the massage effect is lowered. On the other hand, too much amount of the polymer compound causes poor finger-picking ability and poor elongation at the time of use, making it difficult to massage.
[ rheological Assistant ]
In the present invention, the rheology adjuvant is a fat-soluble component capable of thickening and gelling the cosmetic. The rheology adjuvant comprises at least two of ethyl cellulose, dextrin palmitate and tribehenate, which are present in particular in an amount effective to increase the viscosity of the cosmetic until gel formation. The amount of rheology aid present in the composition depends on the desired final viscosity of the cosmetic product in which the composition is to be used. In the method for producing a cosmetic of the present invention, the concentration of the lipid peptide-type gelling agent to be blended is not particularly limited as long as it is effective, but is 0.1 to 0.5wt%, preferably 0.1 to 0.4wt%, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3wt% based on the mass of the polymer thickener blended in the cosmetic raw material. The ethyl cellulose, dextrin palmitate and Sanshan Shujing all belong to oil phase thickening agents, and are characterized by having thixotropy, being capable of forming an oil gel system when being mixed with oil, and gradually collapsing the internal gel structure after being sheared by external force; when the shearing force is removed, the internal gel structure is gradually restored and formed, but the internal structure is restored to the original state after a certain time lag due to the difference between the destruction speed and the restoration speed of the internal structure caused by the shearing force.
The rheological aid and the solid oil component can synergistically improve the viscosity of the cosmetic, improve the stability of the cosmetic and endow the cosmetic with a milky jelly-like appearance. The combination of a rheology adjuvant and a solid oil makes it possible to thicken a cosmetic while retaining the shiny appearance of the cosmetic and of the films deposited on the lips and/or the skin. The content of the rheology aid is based on the content of the solid oil component, and when the solid oil component is contained in the cosmetic composition in an amount of, for example, 1 to 5wt%, it is preferable that the rheology aid is contained in the cosmetic composition in an amount of 3 to 10wt%, and in this case, particularly good shape retention can be obtained.
[ liquid oil component ]
In the present invention, the liquid oil component is preferably an oil component having fluidity at room temperature (25 ℃) and a semi-solid oil component having a melting point of less than 50 ℃, and the liquid oil component also includes a volatile oil component having a boiling point of less than 250 ℃, from the viewpoint of ease of fusion with a color cosmetic on the skin and ease of spreading when applied to the skin.
The liquid oil component used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a liquid oil component used in usual cosmetics, and may be any of animal oils, vegetable oils, and synthetic oils. Specific examples of the liquid oil component include: esters such as glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), diisostearyl malate, diglyceryl triisostearate, decaglyceryl isostearate, oligomer esters of dimer acid and dimer alcohol, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, hexadecyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid esters, and jojoba oil; hydrocarbons such as volatile isoparaffin, polybutene, polyisobutylene, heavy liquid isoparaffin, liquid paraffin, α -olefin oligomer, squalane, and vaseline; olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamia nut oil and other oils; fatty acids such as isostearic acid and oleic acid; higher alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; silicone oils such as low-polymerization degree dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic silicone, high-polymerization degree dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethylpolysiloxane, octanoyltrimethylpolysiloxane, crosslinking-type organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, and the like; fluorine-containing oils such as perfluoropolyethers; lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin acetate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid ester, and lanolin alcohol; and so on.
The content of the liquid oil component is preferably 60 to 88wt% based on the mass of the cosmetic. When the content of the liquid oil is too small, the fusion with the color cosmetic is poor, the elongation is reduced, and the skin care is difficult. On the other hand, when the liquid oil content is too large, the shape retention property is deteriorated and the skin-moisturizing effect is also deteriorated.
[ surfactant ]
In the present invention, the surfactant is preferably a nonionic surfactant having an HLB value within the range of 5 to 13. Here, the "nonionic surfactant having an HLB value in the range of 5 to 13" means 1 kind of nonionic surfactant having an HLB value in the range of 5 to 13, or a combination of plural kinds of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value in this range, or a combination of plural kinds of nonionic surfactants having a weighted average HLB value in the range of 5 to 13 as a result of combining 2 or more kinds of nonionic surfactants having different HLB values. Specific examples of the combination of nonionic surfactants having different HLB values include a combination of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB value in the range of 5 to 13 and a nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 5.
When the HLB value of the nonionic surfactant is less than 5, even if the color cosmetic is mixed with the oily solid cosmetic on the skin and then rinsed with water or warm water, the color cosmetic cannot be rinsed cleanly because of poor mixing with water, and a refreshing feeling after rinsing cannot be obtained. On the contrary, when the HLB value exceeds 13, hydrophobic color cosmetics cannot be blended with oily solid cosmetics, and removal of color cosmetics becomes insufficient. Wherein, when the HLB value is in the range of 6-11, the color cosmetics are easy to remove and wash. The surfactant may be in a solid or liquid state, but when a nonionic surfactant that is in a liquid state at 25 ℃ is used, more excellent performance can be obtained in terms of ease of removal and rinsing of the makeup.
Specific examples of the nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 5 to 13 and the nonionic surfactant having an HLB value falling within the above range when used in combination as a surfactant include polyglycerin fatty acid esters such as polyglycerin stearate-4, polyglycerin oleate-2, polyglycerin isostearate-2 and polyglycerin distearate-10; polyoxyethylene solidified castor oil such as PEG-10 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil; polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters such as PEG-2 stearate and PEG-5 stearate; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as ceteth-2, oleyl polyether-3 and stearyl polyether-6; fatty acid polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as steareth-6 stearate, laureth-8 isostearate and steareth-12 stearate; polyoxyethylene fatty acid glycerides such as PEG-3 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-15 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-5 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-10 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and PEG-20 glyceryl tristearate; polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil fatty acid such as PEG-15 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate and PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate; and so on. Further, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymers, ethers of polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymers and long-chain alcohols, ethers of polybutylene glycol polyglycerol copolymers and long-chain alcohols, and the like can be cited. Among them, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene fatty acid hardened castor oils, and polyoxyethylene fatty alkyl ethers are preferably used from the viewpoint of ease of makeup removal and washing.
When the nonionic surfactant used as the surfactant has a fatty acid residue in the molecule, the fatty acid residue is preferably a residue of a higher fatty acid having 10 to 22 carbon atoms such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, etc., and among these, the nonionic surfactant is preferably a residue of a branched higher fatty acid having a liquid state and excellent oxidation stability, and particularly preferably an isostearic acid residue.
Specific examples of the liquid nonionic surfactant (at 25 ℃) used as a surfactant include triisostearic acid PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, triisostearic acid PEG-5 glyceride, and triisostearic acid PEG-20 glyceride. Specific examples of the solid nonionic surfactant (at 25 ℃) used as a surfactant include PEG-20 glyceryl tristearate, steareth-12 stearate, and steareth-8.
The content of the surfactant is preferably 1 to 5wt% based on the mass of the cosmetic. When the amount is too small, the makeup removability and the washability of the cleansing cosmetic are reduced when the cosmetic is used as the cleansing cosmetic, and when too large, irritation to the skin may occur.
[ aqueous phase Components ]
In the invention, the cosmetic can apply high-content water-soluble active ingredients, and the water-phase component enables the cosmetic to have the effects of stabilizing, replenishing water, locking water and double nourishing.
The content of the aqueous phase component is preferably 5 to 20wt% based on the mass of the cosmetic. When the amount is too small, the moisturizing and nourishing effects of the cosmetic are reduced, and when the amount is too large, there is a fear that the stability of the cosmetic is adversely affected.
[ other Components ]
In the invention, the cosmetics can contain auxiliary materials which are commonly used in the field of cosmetics and can be selected from humectant, antifreeze, preservative, essence and pigment; the active ingredients are active ingredients with at least one function of moisturizing, resisting oxidation, enlarging lips and repairing lips, such as vitamin C ethyl ether, nicotinamide, vitamin E, ceramide and the like.
In the present invention, the cosmetic product may contain one or more coloring materials comprising one or more powdery compounds and/or one or more fat-soluble or water-soluble colorants, which may be present, for example, in an amount of 0 to 20%, in particular 0.01 to 10%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. The powdered compound may be chosen from pigments and/or pearlescing agents and/or fillers commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. The less the content of the powdery compound, the better the non-transferability and the comfort. It was found unexpectedly. The non-transfer properties of the cosmetic are improved as the amount of the powdered compound is reduced, whereas the non-transfer properties of the prior art cosmetics are increased by increasing the amount of the powdered compound. In contrast, its discomfort, luster or dry sensation of the skin or mucous membranes increases.
The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, interfering or non-interfering. Among the inorganic pigments there may be mentioned titanium dioxide, or zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, optionally surface-treated. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, lakes based on carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
Wherein the pearlescent pigment is selected from the group consisting of pearlescent white pigment and colored pearlescent pigment. White pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide or bismuth oxychloride coated mica; colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica containing iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica containing, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide or organic pigments mentioned above, titanium oxide-coated mica and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
The fillers may be organic or inorganic, and may be in the form of flakes or spheres. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon, poly-beta-alanine and polyethylene powders, teflon, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres, and silicone resin microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydroxide, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, or lithium stearate, zinc lactate, or magnesium myristate.
Among them, fat-soluble colorants, for example, sudan red, DC red 17, DC green 6, β -carotene, soybean oil, sudan brown, DC yellow 11, DC violet 2, DC orange 5 or quinoline yellow can be exemplified.
In the present invention, the cosmetic may further contain a particulate material having an average particle diameter of 1 to 200 μm, which contributes to adsorption of makeup dirt, imparting moderate friction during massage, and also contributes to improvement of makeup removability, refreshing feeling after washing, and massage effect. When the volume average particle diameter of the particulate material is too small, the effects of improving the removal of makeup and the ease of massage cannot be obtained. Conversely, if it is too large, the skin may feel irritation during massage, and the particulate material may easily settle during the production of the cosmetic. Therefore, the dispersion of the particulate material becomes uneven, and the stability of the appearance and quality of the product is impaired. The particulate material is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in cosmetics, and any particulate material may be used without limitation in material (organic, inorganic, etc.), shape (spherical, needle-like, plate-like, etc.), particle structure (porous, nonporous, etc.). Among them, when the particulate material is porous and has a large specific surface area, it is preferably used because it has excellent performance of adsorbing makeup stains. The particulate material may be exemplified by, for example: clay minerals such as talc, muscovite, synthetic mica, phlogopite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, sericite, zeolite, kaolin, bentonite, saponite, hectorite, natural clay, sea mud, and activated clay; inorganic oxides or inorganic salts such as silicic acid, anhydrous silicic acid (silica), magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxide, and hydroxyapatite; organic powders such as silicone powder, silicone elastic powder, polyurethane powder, cellulose powder, nylon powder, silk powder, PMMA powder, starch, polyethylene powder, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, and plant powder (apricot kernel, walnut kernel, glucomannan powder, etc.); carbon powder such as activated carbon, medicinal carbon, bamboo charcoal, etc.; and a composite or a granulated product thereof.
[ examples ]
Specific component distribution ratios of the cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 are shown in table 1, and the cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 each contain a composition for thickening. The microcrystalline wax is solid oil component in the composition for thickening, and the rheological adjuvant in the composition for thickening comprises at least two of ethyl cellulose, dextrin palmitate and Sanishu essence. The cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 were all lip care cosmetics.
Examples 1-5 provide cosmetics in which the primary solvent and the skin conditioner constitute the aqueous phase component.
Examples 1-5 provide cosmetic compositions in which the liquid oil component can act as an emollient.
Examples 1 to 5 provide cosmetics in which the liquid oil is gelled to reduce permeability by including a composition for thickening, and a gel system in which an oil phase wraps a water phase is formed, so that the cosmetics are more stable and can contain a higher amount of water.
Examples 1-5 provide cosmetic compositions wherein the liquid oil component comprises several of hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, tridecyl trimellitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexahydrostearate/hexastearate, bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate-2, petrolatum, and dextrin isostearate. Hydrogenated polyisobutene: the viscosity of hydrogenated polyisobutene is influenced by different molecular weights, and the high molecular weight hydrogenated polyisobutene can enhance the viscosity of the formula and has a film forming effect; the hydrogenated polyisobutene with low molecular weight has the characteristics of moistening, no greasiness, moisture retention and strong permeability. The diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate have bright color and can enhance the glossiness of the surface of the product. Caprylic/capric triglyceride: the oil is a high-cleanness oil, has good spreadability, is moist and not greasy, has excellent compatibility with skin, is easy to absorb, and has no irritation. Octyldodecanol: has excellent dispersing and dissolving capacity with the rheological additive of the invention. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate: excellent toner dispersing ability. Dipentaerythritol hexahydrostearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate and bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate-2 have high water locking property, excellent skin adhesion and smooth feeling, and can increase the luster of the product. Petrolatum, which forms a moisture barrier on the skin, makes the moisture of the skin not easy to evaporate and dissipate, and also protects the skin from the invasion of foreign objects. Petrolatum helps to maintain a water-soluble state for a longer period of time in contact with and absorbed by the skin, thus providing a better moisturizing effect. Dextrin isostearate: the oil phase film forming agent with excellent performance has excellent adhesiveness and can quickly form a film. Petrolatum, which forms a moisture barrier on the skin, makes the moisture of the skin not easy to evaporate and dissipate, and also protects the skin from the invasion of foreign objects. Petrolatum helps to maintain a water-soluble state for a longer period of time in contact with and absorbed by the skin, thus providing a better moisturizing effect.
In the cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5, the surfactant includes several of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate and polyhydroxystearic acid, so that the whole cosmetic system is more stable and the cosmetic body is more uniform and fine.
The cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 were prepared by the following preparation methods:
step 1, stirring and mixing the phase D raw materials, and uniformly grinding the mixture by a three-roller grinder for later use;
step 2, adding the phase B raw material into a stirring pot, controlling the temperature to be 90-110 ℃, and heating and stirring until the mixture is clear;
step 3, adding the phase A raw material into an emulsifying pot, controlling the temperature to be 90-120 ℃, heating, stirring and melting until the phase A raw material is uniform and has no particles;
step 4, reducing the temperature of the emulsifying pot to 90-95 ℃, slowly adding the A into the phase B, and stirring until the mixture is uniform and has no particles;
step 5, adding the phase C raw materials into an emulsifying pot, and uniformly stirring;
step 6, putting part of the emulsifying pot material into a small container, adding the phase D, stirring and dispersing to obtain colorless powder particles, adding the colorless powder particles into the emulsifying pot, uniformly stirring, and defoaming in vacuum;
step 7, cooling the temperature of the emulsifying pot to 60-65 ℃, and adding the phase E;
step 8, cooling the temperature of the emulsifying pot to 40-50 ℃, slowly adding the phase F into the pot, and stirring the mixture until the mixture is uniform and homogeneous;
and 9, cooling the temperature of the emulsifying pot to 40-45 ℃, adding the G phase, uniformly stirring, and defoaming in vacuum.
TABLE 1
The specific component ratios of the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1-2 are shown in table 2. The thickeners used in the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1 and 2 are all thickeners commonly used in the cosmetic field, including existing polymeric thickeners. The cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1 to 2 were all lip care cosmetics.
TABLE 2
The cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1-2 were prepared by the following preparation methods:
step 1, stirring and mixing the phase C raw materials, and uniformly grinding the mixture by a three-roller grinder for later use;
step 2, uniformly mixing the raw materials of the phase B, stirring and heating to 90 ℃ to obtain a completely melted transparent phase B for later use;
step 3, putting the phase A raw material into a stirring pot, heating to 85-95 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving;
step 4, reducing the temperature of the stirring pot to 85-90 ℃, adding the B phase and the ground C phase into the A phase, and uniformly stirring without particles;
and 5, reducing the temperature of the stirring pot to 60-65 ℃, adding the phase D, and uniformly stirring.
The cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 and the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1 to 2 were subjected to physical and chemical tests, and the test results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3
Test items | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 |
Viscosity (unit: cP) | 48000 | 40000 | 38000 | 40000 | 50000 | 42000 | 45000 |
Heat resistance stability (45 ℃ X1 month) | OK | OK | OK | OK | OK | OK | OK |
Cold resistance stability test (-10 ℃ C.. Times.1 month) | OK | OK | OK | OK | OK | OK | OK |
The cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 and the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1 to 2 were subjected to a random survey of feeling of use, and the results of feeling of use are shown in table 4 using a 15-person scale and a 5-point scale. As can be seen from Table 4, the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1-2 all had high scores for lightness, moisture retention and moisturization, but neither spreadability nor breathability was as high as the cosmetics provided in examples 1-5. According to the feedback of the testers, the cosmetic provided by the comparative example 1 has obvious silky feeling when being applied and is greasy; the cosmetic provided in comparative example 2 was relatively hard to apply, non-breathable, and also relatively greasy. The cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 were relatively moist and non-greasy to the touch when applied. Wherein the test scores for the cosmetic provided in example 3 and the cosmetic provided in example 4 were relatively high.
TABLE 4
Test items | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 |
Spreadability | 3.2 | 3 | 4.1 | 4.25 | 4.5 | 4.65 | 4.3 |
Brightness of light | 4.2 | 4.1 | 4.2 | 4.25 | 4.4 | 4.5 | 4.2 |
Moistening degree | 4.2 | 4.3 | 4.3 | 4.3 | 4.35 | 4.5 | 4.25 |
Air permeability | 3 | 2.8 | 4 | 4.1 | 4.25 | 4.3 | 4.1 |
Moisture retention | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.4 | 4.5 | 4.55 | 4.5 | 4.3 |
The gloss of the cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 and the gloss of the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1 to 2 were also measured using a Byk Gardner type gloss meter, and the gloss of the cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 was superior to that of the cosmetics provided in comparative examples 1 to 2. The composition for thickening provided by the present invention can provide cosmetics with high glossiness, which cannot be provided by conventional thickeners.
The cosmetics provided in examples 1-5 were all in a gel state, glossy and "custard" appearance, soft to use, without transfer, and without migration. It is easy and quick to use, and the film formed on the lips is soft and lubricious, giving good comfort in use. . The cosmetics provided in examples 1 to 5 make up the lips quickly; a homogeneous film is provided which does not require re-application.
Thus, the cosmetics provided in examples 3 to 4 were further subjected to a moisturizing test and a mildness test.
The cosmetic provided in example 3 was subjected to the following moisturizing test as a sample:
1. subject information: healthy asian female subjects, aged 22 to 40 years, had normal lips in 15, and had dry lips, dander, etc. lip problems in 15.
2. The testing steps are as follows:
before using the sample, the test site can not use any sample (cosmetics or external medicines) 3 days before testing, can not contact water for 3 hours, and before testing, the test subject needs to uniformly clean the lips by wiping the lips with dry facial tissues;
-reading and filling in an informed consent form;
subjects sit still for 30 minutes in a laboratory at a temperature of 21 ± 1 ℃ and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10% without drinking water and beverages before testing;
-applying the sample to the lips;
4 hours after application of the sample, use of a skin moisture meterCM 825 performing stratum corneum moisture content determination on the test area; />
8 hours after application of the sample, use of a skin moisture meterCM 825 subjects the test area to stratum corneum moisture content determination.
3. Test results
Skin moisture content measuring instrument for stratum corneum moisture contentThe CM 825 is used for detecting the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum, and the larger the test value is, the higher the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum is;
the mean value of the water content of the stratum corneum is shown in figure 1;
the rate of change of the moisture content of the stratum corneum and is shown in fig. 2, wherein the rate of change = [ (hour after use-before use)/100% before use ].
According to the test result, the following results are obtained: compared with the cosmetic provided by the example 3, the average value of the moisture content of the horny layer of the lip skin of 30 subjects at 4 hours after the cosmetic provided by the example 3 is improved by 29.23 percent, and the difference is significant; compared with the cosmetic provided by the example 3, the average value of the moisture content of the horny layer of the lip skin of 30 subjects at 8 hours after the cosmetic provided by the example 3 is improved by 32.04 percent, and the difference is significant. Table 5 shows a descriptive statistic of the skin stratum corneum moisture content of 30 subjects at different time points, and table 6 shows a descriptive statistic of the rate of change of the skin stratum corneum moisture content of 30 subjects at different time points.
TABLE 5
Remarking: the data in the series obeys normal distribution if the progressive significance (bilateral) value is larger than 0.050 by the normality test.
TABLE 6
Point in time | Mean value | Standard deviation of | p value | Differential analysis |
4 hours after application of sample-before application of sample | 10.51 | 6.55 | <0.001** | Has significant difference |
8 hours after use of the sample-before use of the sample | 11.52 | 7.1 | <0.001** | Has significant difference |
Remarking:
1. the significant difference is as follows: p is less than 0.050;
there were no significant differences: p is more than or equal to 0.050;
2. representing that the two groups of data are subjected to difference comparison by using a pairing T test method;
* Two sets of data are presented for differential comparisons using the rank sum test method.
The cosmetic provided in example 4 was subjected to the following moisturizing test as a sample:
1. subject information: healthy asian female subjects, aged 22 to 40 years, had normal lips in 15, and had dry lips, dander, etc. lip problems in 15.
2. The testing steps are as follows:
before using the sample, the test site could not be used with any sample (cosmetic or topical) 3 days before testing, 3 hours without water contact, and the test subjects needed a uniform lip cleaning by wiping them clean with dry facial tissue;
-reading and filling in an informed consent form;
subjects sit still for 30 minutes in a laboratory at a temperature of 21 ± 1 ℃ and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10% without drinking water and beverages before testing;
-applying the sample to the lips;
4 hours after application of the sample, use of a skin moisture meterCM 825 measures stratum corneum moisture content of the test area;
8 hours after application of the sample, using a skin moisture meterCM 825 subjects the test area to stratum corneum moisture content determination.
3. Test results
Skin moisture content measuring instrument for stratum corneum moisture contentCM 825 is used for detecting the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum, and the larger the test value is, the higher the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum is;
the mean value of the water content of the stratum corneum is shown in figure 3;
the rate of change of the moisture content of the stratum corneum and is shown in fig. 4, wherein the rate of change = [ (post-use hour-pre-use)/pre-use ] × 100%.
Compared with the cosmetic provided by the example 4, the average moisture content of the horny layer of the skin of the lips of 30 subjects at 4 hours after the cosmetic provided by the example 4 is improved by 42.19 percent, and the difference is significant; compared with the cosmetic provided by the example 4, the average value of the moisture content of the horny layer of the lip skin of 30 subjects at 8 hours after the cosmetic provided by the example 4 is improved by 40.05 percent, and the difference is significant. Table 7 shows a descriptive statistic of the skin stratum corneum moisture content of 30 subjects at different time points, and table 8 shows a descriptive statistic of the skin stratum corneum moisture content change rate of 30 subjects at different time points.
TABLE 7
Remarking: the progressive significance (bilateral) value of the normality test is greater than 0.050, and the series of data obeys normal distribution.
TABLE 8
Time point | Mean value | Standard deviation of | p value | Differential analysis |
4 hours after use of the sample-before use of the sample | 14.46 | 7.81 | <0.001* | Has significant difference |
8 hours after use of the sample-before use of the sample | 13.72 | 7.94 | <0.001* | Has significant difference |
Remarking:
1. the significant difference is as follows: p is less than 0.050;
there were no significant differences: p is more than or equal to 0.050;
2. representing that the two groups of data are subjected to difference comparison by using a pairing T test method;
* Two sets of data are presented for differential comparisons using the rank sum test method.
The cosmetics provided in example 3 were evaluated for mild efficacy and safety. The mild efficacy and safety of the samples were evaluated for skin tolerance by single use of the cosmetics provided in example 3 under normal conditions by asian adult female subjects, by clinical evaluation by dermatologists and by subject self-evaluation.
1. Subject information: healthy asian female subjects, aged 22 to 40 years, had normal lips in 15, and had dry lips, dander, etc. lip problems in 15.
2. Test procedure
No sample (cosmetic or topical) can be used 3 days before the test of the test site, no water can be contacted for 3 hours, the test subject needs to clean the lips uniformly before the test, and the cleaning method is to wipe clean with dry facial tissue;
-reading and filling in an informed consent form;
subjects sit still for 30 minutes in a laboratory at a temperature of 21 ± 1 ℃ and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10% without drinking water and beverages before testing;
the cosmetic product provided in example 3 was used according to the test protocol as shown in table 9;
clinical evaluation by a dermatologist.
28 days after using the sample, the subject cleaned lips in the laboratory using a laboratory-supplied facial cleanser, and then the subject sat still in the laboratory at a temperature of 21 ± 1 ℃ and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10% for 30 minutes;
clinical evaluation by dermatologist (including self-evaluation of product safety by subjects).
3. Test results
Clinical evaluation of dermatologist safety: the potential for adverse reactions to human skin was evaluated by observing 30 asian adult female subjects, 22-40 years old, under the control of a dermatologist, who normally used the test samples for 28 consecutive days, indicating that none of the 30 subjects had clinically developed adverse reactions after use that were identified as being associated with the sample tested.
Subject self-assessment: none of the 30 subjects experienced discomfort throughout the test.
The results show that the cosmetic provided in example 3 has better safety for adult subjects.
TABLE 9
Test sample | Example 3 cosmetic preparations |
Site of use | The whole lip |
Frequency of use | The preparation is administered continuously for 28 days, 2 times per day, once in the morning and at night |
Application method | Cleaning lip, dipping product with lip brush, and uniformly coating the product on the lip, wherein the product is required to completely cover the lip |
The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.
The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. A composition for thickening, comprising a solid oil and a rheology adjuvant comprising at least two of ethylcellulose, dextrin palmitate and tribehenate.
2. A cosmetic comprising the composition of claim 1.
3. The cosmetic according to claim 2, further comprising a liquid oil component, a surfactant and a water-phase component.
4. The cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the content of the composition is not less than 4% by weight and not more than 15% by weight based on the mass of the cosmetic.
5. The cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that the content of the aqueous phase component is not less than 5% by weight and not more than 20% by weight based on the mass of the cosmetic.
6. The cosmetic according to claim 5, comprising, based on the mass of the cosmetic:
1-5wt% of said solid oil;
3-10wt% of said rheological aid;
60-88wt% of said liquid oil;
1-5wt% of said surfactant
5 to 20wt% of the aqueous phase component;
0-1wt% of a colorant;
0.1-3wt% of an auxiliary agent.
7. Cosmetic product according to claim 6, characterized in that said solid oil comprises microcrystalline wax.
8. The cosmetic of claim 6, wherein the liquid oil component comprises a liquid oil component comprising several of hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, tridecyl trimellitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexahydrostearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate-2, petrolatum, and dextrin isostearate.
9. The cosmetic of claim 6, wherein said surfactant comprises several of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate and polyhydroxystearic acid.
10. A method of cosmetically caring for or making up the lips or the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic product according to any one of claims 2 to 9 is applied to the lips or the skin.
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CN1254551A (en) * | 1998-11-09 | 2000-05-31 | 莱雅公司 | Non-metastatic beautifying composition containing dispersed polymer particles and special rehologic reagent |
CN105796374A (en) * | 2016-03-15 | 2016-07-27 | 曼秀雷敦(中国)药业有限公司 | Lipstick and preparation method thereof |
CN112566611A (en) * | 2018-08-18 | 2021-03-26 | 捷鸥化妆品株式会社 | Oily solid cosmetic |
CN113143777A (en) * | 2021-05-06 | 2021-07-23 | 美尚(广州)化妆品股份有限公司 | Oil-in-water lip cosmetic and preparation method thereof |
CN115006324A (en) * | 2022-06-16 | 2022-09-06 | 广东格烯生物科技股份有限公司 | Nourishing and repairing lotion containing ceramide NP and preparation method thereof |
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CN1254551A (en) * | 1998-11-09 | 2000-05-31 | 莱雅公司 | Non-metastatic beautifying composition containing dispersed polymer particles and special rehologic reagent |
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