CN115487084A - Compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation, preparation method thereof and composition for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation - Google Patents
Compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation, preparation method thereof and composition for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation Download PDFInfo
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- CN115487084A CN115487084A CN202211038113.1A CN202211038113A CN115487084A CN 115487084 A CN115487084 A CN 115487084A CN 202211038113 A CN202211038113 A CN 202211038113A CN 115487084 A CN115487084 A CN 115487084A
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- acne
- essential oil
- ferulic acid
- whitening
- antioxidant
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- 239000012138 yeast extract Substances 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses an acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives, a preparation method thereof and an acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The product disclosed by the invention contains ferulic acid derivatives and plant essential oil, starts from the aspects of inhibiting the proliferation of propionibacterium and malassezia, reducing the probability of parakeratosis of pilosebaceous ducts, eliminating inflammation and the like, inhibits the growth of acne, achieves the aim of removing acne, and also has the effects of whitening skin, fading acne marks, delaying skin aging and restoring a healthy skin state. Moreover, the ferulic acid derivative serving as a full-wave-band light-resistant raw material can enhance the light stability of the plant essential oil, keep the long-acting activity of active substances, exert better effect and adapt to a wider application range. In addition, the performance of the compound essential oil can be enriched by adding an antioxidant, an alcohol auxiliary agent, skin moistening grease and a peony root bark extract.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives, a preparation method and an acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition.
Background
Acne is also called whelk, facial acne is whelk growing on the face, which is a common dermatosis generally seen in teenagers, and facial acne has many types, and is mainly characterized by polymorphic skin lesions such as facial acne, pimple, pustule, nodule and the like. Facial acne is also suppurative in severe cases, and therefore needs to be treated in time. Acne is a multifactorial disease, and the onset of the disease is mainly related to factors such as sex hormone level, sebaceous gland massive secretion, propionibacterium acnes and malassezia proliferation, keratosis and inflammation of pilosebaceous ducts and the like. With the arrival of adolescence, the acne is repeatedly increased due to various habits of life and diet, the beauty of the face of people is greatly influenced, and psychological factors of self-disqualification are sometimes caused.
The plant essential oil has the effects of relieving nerves, resisting bacteria and oxidation, has a good inhibiting effect on acne, is a good solvent, can be compatible with a plurality of active substances, can be used as a carrier of other components, and synergistically plays the best pharmacological action. However, the plant essential oil has poor water solubility and light stability and strong volatility, and the quality of the plant essential oil is accelerated by frequently changing temperature, light, water vapor and exposure to air, and the plant essential oil is usually filled in an opaque package, so that the operation is careless, the effect is greatly reduced, and the application of the plant essential oil is limited.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the main purpose of the invention is to provide the acne-removing whitening antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives, the preparation method thereof and the acne-removing whitening antioxidant composition, so that the acne-removing whitening and antioxidant effects can be realized, and the technical problems of strong volatility, poor light stability and single application mode of the plant essential oil are solved.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives, which comprises the ferulic acid derivatives and plant essential oil;
wherein the ferulic acid derivative is at least one of ethylhexyl ferulate and ethyl ferulate; the plant essential oil comprises at least one of oleum Menthae Dementholatum, flos Chrysanthemi Indici oil, oleum herba Pogostemonis, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, and herba Selaginellae Doederleinii oil, and at least one of oleum Lavandula Angustifolia, thyme oil, melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, herba Origani leaf oil, and oleum Caryophylli.
Preferably, the compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation also comprises an antioxidant, an alcohol auxiliary agent, emollient oil and a peony root bark extract.
Preferably, the antioxidant is at least one of vitamin E and BHT.
Preferably, the alcoholic adjuvant comprises at least one of hexanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol or dipropylene glycol.
Preferably, the emollient oil comprises at least one of jojoba oil and olive fruit oil.
Preferably, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of ferulic acid derivative and 20-30 parts of plant essential oil.
Further preferably, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative further comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-2 parts of antioxidant, 10-15 parts of alcohol auxiliary agent, 30-50 parts of emollient oil and 0.5-3 parts of peony root and bark extract.
In addition, in order to achieve the above purpose, the invention also provides a preparation method of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives, which comprises the following steps:
s10, uniformly mixing the peony root and bark extract and the plant essential oil, sequentially adding an antioxidant, emollient oil and a ferulic acid derivative, uniformly dispersing at 50-60 ℃, and cooling to obtain a mixture.
S20, uniformly mixing the mixture with the dispersed alcohol auxiliary agent to obtain the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
The invention also provides an acne-removing whitening and antioxidation composition which can comprise the acne-removing whitening and antioxidation compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
Preferably, the acne removing, whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 0.5-3% of the acne removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives in parts by weight.
The invention can realize the following beneficial effects:
the ferulic acid derivative in the compound essential oil has good stability, the phenolic hydroxyl group of the ferulic acid derivative has obvious clearing effect on peroxy radicals and hydroxyl radicals, the risk of skin function damage caused by oxidation reaction of a biological tissue membrane is reduced, the activity of tyrosinase can be effectively inhibited, the generation of melanin is inhibited, and the effects of whitening, resisting oxidation and delaying skin aging are achieved; the self-contained styryl structure has the function of antagonizing endothelin, plays a role in protecting vascular endothelium, enhancing curative effect, expanding treatment range, reducing toxic and side effects, achieves the effect of diminishing inflammation, and can relieve inflamed pox muscles.
In addition, the ferulic acid derivative has a full-wave-band light-resistant function, can improve the light stability of the plant essential oil, enables active substances to keep long-acting activity, exerts better effect and is suitable for wider application range.
The plant essential oil formula selected by the invention has obvious inhibition effect on malassezia and propionibacterium causing acne, and can play a complementary role when being matched with ferulic acid derivatives.
The acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative starts with the aspects of inhibiting the proliferation of propionibacterium and malassezia, reducing the probability of parakeratosis of pilosebaceous glands, eliminating inflammation and the like, inhibits the growth of acne, achieves the aims of relieving skin inflammation and removing acne, and simultaneously has the effects of whitening skin, fading acne marks, delaying skin aging and restoring the healthy state of skin.
The compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives has excellent stability, so that the compound essential oil can be applied to acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compositions in various states, such as paste, emulsion, liquid and the like, breaks the limitation of the packaging mode and the application mode of plant essential oil, and is beneficial to exerting the optimal effect in many aspects.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments or technical solutions in the prior art of the present invention, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or prior art are briefly introduced below, it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present invention, and for those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained according to the structures shown in the drawings without creative efforts.
Fig. 1 is a flow chart of a preparation method of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives in embodiments 1-3 of the invention.
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the bacteriostatic effects of the products of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 on Malassezia.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the bacteriostatic effects of the products of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 on Propionibacterium.
Figure 4 is a graph of the skin condition of one subject in the application before, on the second day of use, on the fourth day of use, and after one week of use of the product of example 1.
The implementation, functional features and advantages of the objects of the present invention will be further explained with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Detailed Description
It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and do not limit the invention.
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Descriptions in this specification as relating to "first", "second", etc. are for descriptive purposes only and are not to be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implicit to any indicated technical feature or quantity. Thus, a feature defined as "first" or "second" may explicitly or implicitly include at least one of the feature. In addition, technical solutions between the embodiments may be combined with each other, but must be based on the realization of the technical solutions by a person skilled in the art, and when the technical solutions are contradictory to each other or cannot be realized, such a combination should not be considered to exist, and is not within the protection scope of the present invention.
The invention provides acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives.
In some embodiments, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative comprises the ferulic acid derivative and plant essential oil.
Wherein the ferulic acid derivative is at least one of ethylhexyl ferulate and ethyl ferulate; the plant essential oil comprises at least one of oleum Menthae Dementholatum, flos Chrysanthemi Indici oil, oleum herba Pogostemonis, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, and herba Selaginellae Doederleinii oil, and at least one of oleum Lavandula Angustifolia, thyme oil, melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, herba Origani leaf oil, and oleum Caryophylli.
Ferulic acid can remove peroxy radicals and hydroxyl radicals, reduce the risk of skin function damage caused by oxidation reaction of biological tissue membranes, effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, inhibit the generation of melanin, and realize the effects of whitening, resisting oxidation and delaying skin aging; the self-contained styryl structure has the function of antagonizing endothelin, plays a role in doubly protecting vascular endothelium, enhancing curative effect, expanding treatment range, reducing toxic and side effects, achieves the effect of diminishing inflammation, and can relieve inflamed pox muscles.
The ferulic acid derivative not only has the same beneficial effects as the ferulic acid, but also has better stability than the ferulic acid. In addition, the ferulic acid derivative has a full-wave-band light resistance function, can obviously improve the light stability of the plant essential oil, enables active substances to keep long-acting activity, exerts better effect, is suitable for wider application range, and breaks through the limitation of a plant essential oil packaging mode and an application mode.
In addition, the ferulic acid derivative also has a preservative effect, so that the product can obtain a long-acting preservative effect without adding a preservative, and the effective period of the product is prolonged.
Propionibacterium is the chief culprit of causing acne, is the dominant flora on the skin, inhabits hair follicles and sebaceous glands, invades the propionibacterium of the sebaceous glands, can generate a small molecular polypeptide, attracts phagocyte to the parasitic part of bacteria, releases hydrolytic enzyme and various inflammatory mediators, induces local inflammatory reaction, and finally destroys the sebaceous glands. Malassezia serrata is easy to cause infection of the superficial cuticle layer and hair follicle of the skin, increases the probability of abnormal keratosis of the pilosebaceous canal, and causes acne.
The peppermint oil, the chamomile oil, the patchouli oil, the vetiver root oil, the frankincense oil and the juniper oil have a remarkable inhibiting effect on propionibacterium, and the lavender oil, the thyme oil, the melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, the origanum vulgaris leaf oil and the clove oil can inhibit the growth and the propagation of malassezia.
The plant essential oil matched as above is applied, so that the product has excellent bacteriostatic performance, and can achieve the beneficial effects of preventing and inhibiting the growth of acne especially on propionibacterium and malassezia.
In some embodiments, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative further comprises an antioxidant, an alcohol auxiliary agent, emollient oil and peony root bark extract.
The present invention is not limited with respect to the kind of the antioxidant, and preferably, the antioxidant includes at least one of vitamin E and BHT. The plant essential oil has poor photostability and is easy to oxidize, the antioxidant can enhance the antioxidation and anti-aging effects of skin cells, improve the antioxidation effect of effective components in the plant essential oil and enable active substances in the plant essential oil to exert the activity effect of the active substances in the plant essential oil for a long time by the synergistic effect of the antioxidant and the ferulic acid derivative.
The alcohol auxiliary agent is not limited in the invention, and preferably, the alcohol auxiliary agent comprises at least one of hexanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol or dipropylene glycol, and by applying the at least one alcohol auxiliary agent, the ferulic acid derivative, the plant essential oil, the antioxidant and the peony root bark extract can be uniformly mixed to obtain the uniform and stable acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative, so that the phenomenon of turbid agglomeration is avoided at the normal temperature of 25-35 ℃, and the storage stability is facilitated.
The skin-moistening oil is extracted from natural plants in a refining way and is a plant type skin-moistening oil. Preferably, the skin moistening grease comprises at least one of jojoba seed oil and olive fruit oil, and has good moistening and protecting effects on skin, so that the effective components in the compound essential oil can be retained on the skin for a longer time, and the skin moistening grease can exert better whitening, acne removing and antioxidant effects.
The peony root bark extract mainly contains paeonol, gallic acid, quercetin, paeoniflorin and paeoniflorin, has antioxidant function, and can be used for enhancing antioxidant effect of skin cells and delaying skin aging under synergistic effect with ferulic acid derivative and antioxidant. In addition, the peony root and bark extract contains collagen fiber gel which has the effects of resisting bacteria, diminishing inflammation and contracting, relieving inflammation and pain caused by acne, relieving skin allergy and inflammation, tightening skin and removing fine lines and wrinkles of the skin.
Similarly, the invention does not limit the weight parts of the components of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives.
In some embodiments, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives comprises the following components: 1-5 parts of ferulic acid derivative and 20-30 parts of plant essential oil. The compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening and resisting oxidation, which is prepared by applying the ferulic acid derivative and the plant essential oil in parts by weight, can achieve whitening, removing acne and resisting oxidation, can also obviously improve the photostability of the plant essential oil, exerts the optimal effect, and breaks the limitation of the packaging mode and the application mode of the plant essential oil.
Further preferably, in some embodiments, the acne removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of ferulic acid derivatives, 20-30 parts of plant essential oil, 0.5-2 parts of antioxidant, 10-15 parts of alcohol auxiliary agent, 30-50 parts of emollient oil and 0.5-3 parts of peony root and bark extract.
By applying the raw materials in parts by weight, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative, which is uniform, stable, rich in performance and excellent in effect, can be obtained, further optimizes whitening and acne-removing and antioxidant effects of the product, can inhibit anaphylaxis, relieve inflammation and pain caused by acne, relieve allergic and inflammatory states of skin, help to tighten skin and remove fine lines and wrinkles of skin.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative, which comprises the following steps:
s10, uniformly mixing the peony root and bark extract and the plant essential oil, sequentially adding an antioxidant, emollient oil and a ferulic acid derivative, uniformly dispersing at 50-60 ℃, and cooling to obtain a mixture.
S20, uniformly mixing the mixture with the uniformly dispersed alcohol auxiliary agent to obtain the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
Preferably, each raw material is added, the raw materials are stirred and uniformly dispersed, and then the next raw material is added, because the raw materials in the invention contain powder, if the raw materials are simultaneously added and mixed, the active substances are not completely dispersed, the agglomeration phenomenon is generated, the temperature needs to be raised to a higher temperature to achieve a better uniform dispersion effect, and when the temperature is too high, the oxidation inactivation of the antioxidant is accelerated due to overheating of the antioxidant, the peroxide value of the system is too high, and the activity of other raw materials is reduced or even loses efficacy.
In some embodiments, stirring is performed at a speed of 500-1500rpm, which is more favorable for uniform dispersion.
In some embodiments, the mixture is obtained by cooling to 35-45 deg.C after the peony root bark extract, the plant essential oil, the antioxidant, the emollient oil and the ferulic acid derivative are uniformly dispersed.
The alcohol auxiliary agent is added at last, so that the active substances in the system can not generate turbidity and agglomeration under the normal-temperature storage condition, and the storage stability is facilitated. In addition, the problem that due to the fact that the short-chain alcohol auxiliary agents are added in advance and the early mixing temperature is too high, the short-chain alcohol auxiliary agents are volatilized too fast, even dehydration condensation occurs, and risk substances are generated can be avoided. Preferably, after all the alcohol auxiliary agents are mixed with each other, stirring is carried out at constant temperature of 35-45 ℃ until all the components are completely and uniformly mixed, and then cooling is carried out to 20-35 ℃ for standby.
Preferably, the step S20 is to mix the mixture with the alcohol auxiliary agent uniformly at 25-35 ℃.
Meanwhile, the invention also provides an acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition which contains the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
The invention does not limit the mass fraction of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative in the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition, and preferably, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition contains 0.5-3% of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
Because the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative has excellent stability, the physical state of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition is not limited, the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition can be in the state of paste, emulsion, liquid and the like, and the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant effects can be obtained by applying the compound essential oil to skin, so that the use mode of the plant essential oil is greatly expanded.
The technical solutions of the present invention are further described in detail with reference to the following specific examples, which should be understood as merely illustrative and not limitative.
The composition schemes of the respective raw materials in the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 are shown in Table 1, and the formulations of the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 1 composition scheme (parts by weight) of raw materials of each component
TABLE 2 formulation of the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5
| Experimental group | Ferulic acid derivatives | Plant essential oil | Antioxidant agent | Alcohol auxiliary agent | Skin-moistening oil | Peony root bark extract |
| Example 1 | A1 | B1 | C1 | D1 | E1 | F1 |
| Example 2 | A2 | B2 | C2 | D2 | E2 | F2 |
| Example 3 | A4 | B4 | C4 | D4 | E4 | F4 |
| Example 4 | A3 | B3 | C3 | D3 | E3 | F3 |
| Comparative example 1 | A8 | B1 | C1 | D1 | E1 | F1 |
| Comparative example 2 | A1 | B8 | C1 | D1 | E1 | F1 |
| Comparative example 3 | A1 | B6 | C1 | D1 | E1 | F1 |
| Comparative example 4 | A1 | B7 | C1 | D1 | E1 | F1 |
| Comparative example 5 | A1 | B1 | C1 | D1 | E1 | F1 |
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
examples 1 to 3
Referring to fig. 1, fig. 1 is a flow chart of a preparation method of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives in example 1-3.
S10, uniformly mixing the peony root and bark extract and the plant essential oil, sequentially adding an antioxidant, emollient oil and ferulic acid derivative, stirring and uniformly dispersing at 50-60 ℃ at the rotating speed of 500-1500rpm, and cooling to 35-45 ℃ to obtain a mixture.
S20, stirring and dispersing the alcohol auxiliary agent at the constant temperature of 35-45 ℃, cooling to 20-35 ℃, mixing with the mixture of S10, stirring and dispersing uniformly at the rotation speed of 500-1500rpm at the temperature of 25-35 ℃ to obtain the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
Example 4
S10, mixing the ferulic acid derivative with the plant essential oil, and stirring and dispersing uniformly at the temperature of 50-60 ℃ and the rotating speed of 500-1500rpm to obtain the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
Comparative examples 1 to 4
The preparation method of comparative examples 1 to 4 is the same as that of example 1, and finally the compound essential oil is obtained.
Comparative example 5
A comparative example 5 has the same raw material formula as that of the example 1 and has a similar preparation method, except that the alcohol auxiliary agent, the peony root-bark extract and the plant essential oil are mixed uniformly, then the antioxidant, the emollient oil and the ferulic acid derivative are added in sequence, the mixture is stirred and dispersed uniformly at the rotation speed of 500-1500rpm at the temperature of 50-60 ℃, and then the mixture is cooled to 35-45 ℃ to obtain the compound essential oil.
Performance testing
The bacteriostatic and antioxidant effects of the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were measured.
Test 1: malassezia inhibition assay
Strain: malassezia furfur (pityrosporum orbiculare) (No. GDMCC 2.181)
Pityrosporum culture medium: wort agar 60g, bilis Bovina (dried) 20g, tween 40 10g, glycerol monooleate 2.5g, and distilled water 1L (pH is natural)
And (3) testing a product: examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5.
The determination method comprises the following steps: respectively taking 1ml malassezia suspension (with the bacterial content of 3.8 multiplied by 10) 4 cfu/mL) is added into a plate, then the culture medium with the temperature of 45 ℃ is poured into the plate and shaken evenly, the mixture is solidified for standby, two pieces of filter paper sterilized in advance are respectively placed on the solidified bacterium-adding culture medium, one piece of filter paper is dripped with a test product, and the other piece of filter paper is used as a blank control.
All plates were placed in an incubator at 30 ℃ for 7 days to observe the results, and the results are shown in FIG. 2.
And (3) testing 2: propionibacterium inhibition experiment
Strain: propionibacterium acnes (number: GDMCC 1.243)
Culture medium: enhanced clostridia culture medium 1053#: 10g of tryptone, 10g of beef extract, 5g of glucose, 5g of sodium chloride, 3g of yeast extract, 3g of sodium acetate, 1g of soluble starch, 0.5g of L-cysteine hydrochloride and 15g of agar (pH 6.8)
And (3) testing a product: examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5.
The determination method comprises the following steps: 1ml of the prepared bacterial suspension (with a bacterial content of 3.6X 10) 4 cfu/ml) were added to the dishes separately, and thenPouring the culture medium with the temperature of 45 ℃ into a flat dish, shaking uniformly, solidifying for later use, respectively putting two filter papers sterilized in advance on the solidified bacterium-adding culture medium, dripping one drop of a test product on one filter paper, and taking the other filter paper as a blank control.
All plates were placed in an anaerobic bag and an anaerobic gas-generating bag was placed in an incubator at 37 ℃ for 5-7 days to observe the results, which are shown in FIG. 3.
And (3) testing: human skin melanocyte tyrosinase activity assay
The test substance: the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were diluted to a concentration of 100mg/ml with an ethanol solution.
Materials: human skin melanocytes (Ningboming Biotechnology Ltd., trade name 302033). The experimental steps are as follows:
s1, inoculating equal amount of human skin melanocytes into each group of culture dishes, culturing with MCDBl53 culture solution in saturated humidity environment, standing at 37 deg.C and 5% CO 2 And in the incubator, the liquid is changed every other day for activation.
S2, adding 100mg/ml of each group of test substances into each group of culture dish cells respectively, and after 5 days, digesting each group of treated cells respectively by using 0.25% pancreatin solution to stop the growth of the cells and suspending the cells in a wall-removing manner.
S3, adding a culture solution containing serum to stop digestion, blowing to prepare a cell suspension, centrifuging for 5min at the rotating speed of 1000rpm, discarding the supernatant, washing with a PBS buffer solution, and centrifuging for 5min at the rotating speed of 1000 rpm; discarding the supernatant, adding PBS buffer according to the rule of 1m 1/parallel sample, and calculating the cell number per ml, wherein the cell number is (0.5-1). Times.10 5 Preferably,/ml.
S4, evenly dividing the counted cell suspension into a plurality of parallel sample test tubes, and centrifuging for 5min at the rotating speed of 1000 rpm; discarding the supernatant, adding 0.5% sodium deoxycholate solution, shaking, and standing at 0 deg.C for 15min. The tube to be tested is taken out and kept stand for 10 minutes in a warm water bath kettle at 37 ℃.
S5, adding an lml 0.1% L-DOPA solution into the test tube, sufficiently shaking the test tube, immediately transferring the test tube into a cuvette for color comparison, and recording an absorbance value A1 immediately after the test tube is added into the cuvette and an absorbance value A2 at the 10 th minute.
And (3) calculating the result: the tyrosinase activity per cell per unit time for each group (including the control group) was first calculated according to equation 1. Then, the percentage of tyrosinase activity of each treatment group in the control group was calculated according to equation 2, and the relative activity of tyrosinase of each treatment group was expressed to show the degree of inhibition of tyrosinase activity by each treatment factor.
Equation 1: specific activity of tyrosinase = | A2-A1 |/number of cells tested
Equation 2: tyrosinase relative activity ratio (%) = tyrosinase activity in experimental group/tyrosinase activity in control group
The results are shown in Table 4.
And (4) testing: free radical (DPPH) scavenging experiments
The test substance: the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were used in the same concentrations.
The experimental steps are as follows:
s1, preparing a 0.12mg/mL DPPH ethanol solution.
The DPPH is 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine, is a stable long-life free radical, and the ethanol solution of the DPPH is dark purple and has strong absorption near 517 nm. In the presence of the free radical scavenger, the DPPH ethanol solution absorbs less light due to its one-electron pairing. The degree of discoloration of the DPPH ethanol solution is linear with the number of electrons it receives, and thus the ability of the test sample to scavenge free radicals, i.e., the magnitude of antioxidant activity, can be evaluated.
S2, diluting the concentration of the test substance to be 0.4mg/ml sample concentration by using 95% ethanol.
And S3, sequentially adding the reaction solution into a test tube, shaking up gently, and standing at room temperature for 5min. Each reaction solution was then transferred to a cuvette and the absorbance was measured at 517 nm.
The sample loading operation is shown in table 3:
TABLE 3 sample application protocol for free radical (DPPH) scavenging experiments
| Experimental materials | T-sample tube | T 0 Background of sample | C-DPPH tube | C 0 Background of solvent |
| Sample solution (ml) | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| 95% ethanol (ml) | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| DPPH ethanol solution (ml) | 1 | 0 | 1 | 0 |
The inhibition of tyrosinase by each group of test substances was calculated according to equation 3:
wherein, T is the light absorption value of the sample tube, namely the light absorption value of the solution after the reaction of the sample and DPPH;
T 0 -sample background absorbance;
C-DPPH tube light absorption value, namely the light absorption value of DPPH solution when no sample is added;
C 0 -background absorbance of solvent.
The results are shown in Table 4
TABLE 4 comparison of the Properties of the products obtained in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5
| Test item | Malassezia serrata (berk.) Kuntze | Propionibacterium sp | Tyrosinase inhibition ratio (%) | Radical DPPH clearance (%) |
| Example 1 | Not detected out | Undetected | 86.83 | 96.06 |
| Example 2 | Undetected | Not detected out | 80.34 | 77.23 |
| Example 3 | Not detected out | Not detected out | 82.12 | 85.32 |
| Example 4 | Not detected out | Not detected out | 82.47 | 78.30 |
| Comparative example 1 | Has detected that | Has a detection | 54.73 | 45.75 |
| Comparative example 2 | Has detected that | Has detected that | 56.43 | 62.31 |
| Comparative example 3 | Not detected out | Has a detection | 60.24 | 65.62 |
| Comparative example 4 | Has detected that | Not detected out | 70.12 | 65.34 |
| Comparative example 5 | Examination is availableGo out | Has a detection | 62.12 | 70.32 |
As can be seen from table 4 and fig. 2 and 3:
in examples 1 to 4, neither malassezia nor propionibacteria was detected, which indicates that the product of the present invention has significant inhibitory effects on malassezia and propionibacteria, and also has significant inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, which can reduce melanin production, and in addition, has a high clearance rate of free radical DPPH, which can achieve excellent antioxidant effects.
Comparative example 1, in which no ferulic acid derivative is added, significantly reduces the inhibition rate of tyrosinase and the clearance rate of free radical DPPH, which in turn affects the whitening and antioxidant effects of the product, and the stability of the product is deteriorated and the inhibition effects of malassezia and propionibacteria are weakened due to the lack of the full-wave-band light-resistant function of the ferulic acid derivative, both of which are detected.
Comparative example 2 without adding plant essential oil, malassezia and propionibacterium were detected, which affected the acne removing efficacy of the product.
In comparative example 3, at least one of peppermint oil, chamomile oil, patchouli oil, vetiver oil, frankincense oil and juniper oil is not added, so that the inhibition effect on propionibacterium is weakened, but the inhibition effect on malassezia is still significant, and therefore, no colony is detected in the culture dish of comparative example 3 in fig. 2, and a colony is detected in the culture dish of comparative example 3 in fig. 3.
Comparative example 4, in which at least one of lavender oil, thyme oil, melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, oregano leaf oil, and clove oil was not added, had a weak inhibitory effect on malassezia but the inhibitory effect on propionibacterium remained significant, and therefore the culture dish of comparative example 4 in fig. 2 had colonies detected, and the culture dish of comparative example 4 in fig. 3 had no colonies detected.
It has also been unexpectedly found that the formulation of plant essential oils also has an effect on tyrosinase inhibition and free radical DPPH clearance.
Compared with the prior art, the alcohol auxiliary agent is added firstly, so that the bacteriostatic effect, the tyrosinase inhibition rate and the free radical DPPH clearance rate of the product are inferior, and probably because the alcohol auxiliary agent is added in advance, a risk substance is generated, the active substance in the product is influenced, and the optimal effect is not exerted.
Application example:
sample preparation: products obtained in examples 1 to 4.
The tested population: approximately 30 pox muscle groups aged 18-60 years were selected for each group of examples, and skin lesion counts and ISGA scores were performed before and after use of the product.
The test method comprises the following steps: the method is carried out according to the test method for the acne removing efficacy of Q/CX001-2022 cosmetics.
And (3) detection flow: a. cleaning the face; b. standing for 30min; c. c, taking a picture of the face pox side by the mobile phone for 7-14 days after use, and repeating the steps a-c at any time point; e. the investigators performed quantitative evaluations from the photographs.
Testing indexes are as follows: skin lesion counts (total of acne, papule, pustule, nodule, cyst) were made from photographs of the subjects' skin lesions.
The statistical method comprises the following steps: and (3) comparing the used SPSS analysis software with a basic value, and performing significance Test on the data improvement value Thai distribution by adopting Shapiro-Wilk Test, wherein if P is more than 0.05, the data is normally distributed, and performing rank sum Test, wherein the significance difference level alpha is 0.05.
Percent skin loss (%) = (pre-use ISGA score-post-use ISGA score)/pre-use ISGA score 100%.
Skin lesion regression (%) = (number of skin lesions before use-number of skin lesions after use)/number of skin lesions before use 100%.
And (4) judging the standard:
and (3) healing: the skin damage regression rate is more than or equal to 90 percent;
the effect is shown: the skin damage regression rate is 60-89%;
improvement: regression rate of skin lesions: 20% -50%;
and (4) invalidation: the skin damage fading rate is less than or equal to 20 percent.
Judging standard detection results and statistical analysis results:
TABLE 5ISGA Scale
| Score value | Content providing method and apparatus |
| 0 point (min) | Normal, no acne lesions; |
| 1 minute (1) | With minor acne, almost non-inflammatory papules (papules already relieved, possibly pigmented, not pink), and no nodules; |
| 2 is divided into | A small amount of papules or pustules, slight inflammation, acne and no nodules; |
| 3 points of | A few papules or pustules, and even many comedones, with few or no nodules; |
| 4 is divided into | Multiple inflammatory lesions, even many comedones, with few or no nodules; |
| 5 points of | A large number of inflammatory lesions predominating, with varying numbers of comedones, many papules, pustules or nodules; |
table 6 acne removal data for products obtained in examples 1 to 4
As can be seen from Table 6:
the subjects of example 1 had statistically significant improvements in skin lesion counts and ISGA scores before and after use of the product (P < 0.001), with a percentage reduction of 59.89% and a regression of skin lesions of 65.52%, and the product had an anti-acne effect.
The subject of example 2 had a statistically significant improvement in the skin lesion count and ISGA score before and after use of the product (P < 0.001), a percentage reduction of skin lesions of 51.22%, a regression rate of skin lesions of 65.68%, and an anti-acne effect.
The subjects of example 3 had a statistical improvement in skin lesion count and ISGA score (P < 0.001), a percentage reduction of 53.82% and a regression of skin lesions of 60.79%, before and after application of the product, which had an anti-acne effect.
The subject of example 4 had a statistically significant improvement in the lesion count and ISGA score before and after use of the product (P < 0.001), a percentage reduction of lesions of 62.44%, a regression of lesions of 76.86%, and the product had an anti-acne effect.
In addition, as shown in fig. 4, the effect pattern of one of the subjects before the use of the product of example 1 and at the second, fourth and seventh days, it was seen that vaccinia had substantially healed at the seventh day.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes, which are made by using the contents of the present specification and the accompanying drawings, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. An acne-removing whitening anti-oxidation compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives is characterized by comprising ferulic acid derivatives and plant essential oil;
wherein the ferulic acid derivative is at least one of ethylhexyl ferulate and ethyl ferulate; the plant essential oil comprises at least one of oleum Menthae Dementholatum, flos Chrysanthemi Indici oil, oleum herba Pogostemonis, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, and herba Selaginellae Doederleinii oil, and at least one of oleum Lavandula Angustifolia, thyme oil, melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, herba Origani leaf oil, and oleum Caryophylli.
2. The compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation as claimed in claim 1, further comprising antioxidant, alcohol auxiliary agent, skin moistening oil and peony root bark extract.
3. The compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening and resisting oxidation as claimed in claim 2, wherein the antioxidant is at least one of vitamin E and BHT.
4. The compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation as claimed in claim 2, wherein the alcohol auxiliary agent comprises at least one of hexanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol or dipropylene glycol.
5. The compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative for removing acne, whitening skin and resisting oxidation as claimed in claim 2, wherein the emollient oil comprises at least one of jojoba oil and olive fruit oil.
6. The acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, which is characterized in that the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of ferulic acid derivative and 20-30 parts of plant essential oil.
7. The compound essential oil for removing acne, whitening and resisting oxidation containing the ferulic acid derivative, which is characterized by further comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-2 parts of antioxidant, 10-15 parts of alcohol auxiliary agent, 30-50 parts of emollient oil and 0.5-3 parts of peony root and bark extract.
8. The preparation method of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
mixing the peony root and bark extract and the plant essential oil uniformly, adding an antioxidant, emollient oil and ferulic acid derivative in sequence, dispersing uniformly at 50-60 ℃, and cooling to obtain a mixture;
and uniformly mixing the mixture and the uniformly dispersed alcohol auxiliary agent to obtain the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing the ferulic acid derivative.
9. An acne removing, whitening and antioxidant composition, which is characterized by comprising the acne removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivative, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7.
10. The acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant composition as claimed in claim 9, is characterized by comprising 0.5-3% of the acne-removing, whitening and antioxidant compound essential oil containing ferulic acid derivatives in parts by weight.
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| KR20170092281A (en) * | 2016-02-03 | 2017-08-11 | 닥터하스킨 주식회사 | Cosmetic Composition for Improving Acnes Using Chamomile |
| CN109125129A (en) * | 2018-09-01 | 2019-01-04 | 郭锦明 | It is a kind of with freckle removing and whitening, clearing heat and detoxicating and tender skin effect champignon essence oil and preparation method thereof |
| KR102154927B1 (en) * | 2019-04-22 | 2020-09-11 | 세라노틱스(주) | A cosmetic composition for anti-aging, anti-oxidant, skin regeneration comprising chlorogenic acid, ferulic acid, resveratrol, and Streptococcus thermophilus fermented extract |
| US20200337967A1 (en) * | 2018-01-09 | 2020-10-29 | Tomcat International Limited | Useful compositions for the cosmetic treatment of oily skin |
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Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103432244A (en) * | 2013-09-11 | 2013-12-11 | 余红波 | Composition having acne removing function |
| KR20170092281A (en) * | 2016-02-03 | 2017-08-11 | 닥터하스킨 주식회사 | Cosmetic Composition for Improving Acnes Using Chamomile |
| CN106038342A (en) * | 2016-07-09 | 2016-10-26 | 陕西畅想制药有限公司 | Novel sunscreen anti-oxidation skin-whitening cosmetic composition and preparation method thereof |
| US20200337967A1 (en) * | 2018-01-09 | 2020-10-29 | Tomcat International Limited | Useful compositions for the cosmetic treatment of oily skin |
| CN109125129A (en) * | 2018-09-01 | 2019-01-04 | 郭锦明 | It is a kind of with freckle removing and whitening, clearing heat and detoxicating and tender skin effect champignon essence oil and preparation method thereof |
| KR102154927B1 (en) * | 2019-04-22 | 2020-09-11 | 세라노틱스(주) | A cosmetic composition for anti-aging, anti-oxidant, skin regeneration comprising chlorogenic acid, ferulic acid, resveratrol, and Streptococcus thermophilus fermented extract |
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