CN115006269B - 一种洗卸二合一组合物及其应用 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种洗卸二合一组合物,按重量份计,包括如下组分:癸基葡萄糖苷1‑10份;椰油酰甘氨酸钾1‑10份;椰油酸钾1‑3份;月桂酰两性基乙酸钠1‑5份;二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯1‑8份;丙二醇脂肪酸酯1‑5份;辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类聚甘油‑10酯类1‑3份。本发明采用特定种类及特定复配重量比的二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯进行复配,并辅以特定重量份的癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酸钾、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类聚甘油‑10酯类,通过各组分的协同配合,制备得到的洗卸二合一组合物清洁能力强,无残留;更加温和无刺激,肤感更好,对干性皮肤和敏感肌友好;且整体pH值呈中性,泡沫丰富,具有透明的产品外观。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,特别涉及一种洗卸二合一组合物及其应用。
背景技术
防晒剂属于W/O型、且抗水性好,比如大多数的摇摇乐防晒,会添加抗水性好、耐摩擦的成膜剂,例如三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯(Trimethylsiloxysilicate)、C12-22醇丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸羟乙酯共聚物(C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER)、VP/十六碳烯共聚物(VP/HEXADECENE COPOLYMER)等等。这类抗水性好的防晒剂,普通的清洁产品(洗面奶、洁颜蜜、洁面泡泡)无法将其彻底清洗干净;且摇摇乐类型的防晒剂,通常SPF50+,化学防晒成分添加量大,防护力强,普通的洗面奶、沐浴露,根本无法将其彻底清洗干净,有机防晒剂明显残留在皮肤表面,如果是敏感肌的话,有增加皮肤负担的风险。
而难清洗的彩妆,与难清洗的防晒有共同的特点,含有抗水性强、耐摩擦的成膜剂,此外还有含量较高的粉体(二氧化钛、氧化锌)、着色剂、云母等等,这类型成分残留在皮肤表面也不好。
虽然目前有专门的卸妆油、卸妆膏、卸妆水可以把防晒剂或彩妆清洗干净,但是有些消费者还会在卸妆后,再用洗面奶清洗一次,这样会加剧皮肤的脱脂,对于干性和敏感皮肤不好;还有相当一部分油性皮肤、油敏肌人群对卸妆油、卸妆膏这类油性产品很抵触,不爱用这类油性产品。
虽然市面上有不少宣称洗卸二合一的清洁产品,不过在实际测试中发现,这类产品对很多抗水性强的防晒剂或者彩妆还是洗不干净,残留很明显。目前的洗卸合一产品,很难做到一个配方的平衡(清洁力、卸妆力、起泡性、脱脂力以及保湿力很难做到平衡);有些产品采用表面活性剂来实现不错的清洁效果,泡沫也丰富,但是卸除防晒和彩妆的效果很弱;有些产品为了加强卸妆效果,加入一些油脂和乳化剂,卸除防晒和彩妆的效果很不错,但是油脂和乳化剂会大大降低表面活性剂的起泡能力,使得产品不起泡,甚至产品都是变成乳白状的乳液。
发明内容
本发明的第一方面在于克服现有技术的至少一个不足,提供一种体系的pH值呈中性,肤感更好,更加温和无刺激的洗卸二合一组合物。
本发明的第二方面是提供上述洗卸二合一组合物的用途。
本发明所采取的技术方案是:
本发明的第一方面,提供了一种洗卸二合一组合物,按重量份计,包括如下组分:
在一些实例中,所述二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯的复配重量比为(1-8):(1-5)。
优选地,所述二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯的复配重量比为(4-6):(1-3)。当二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯的复配重量比过大,产品外观会浑浊变蒙;当二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯的复配重量比过小,卸妆效果不好。
在一些实例中,所述二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯选自琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯、戊二酸二乙氧基乙酯、己二酸二乙氧基乙酯、己二酸二乙氧基乙酯、庚二酸二乙氧基乙酯、辛二酸二乙氧基乙酯、壬二酸二乙氧基乙酯、癸二酸二乙氧基乙酯中的一种或几种。
优选地,所述二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯优选为琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯。
在一些实例中,所述丙二醇脂肪酸酯选自丙二醇辛酸酯、丙二醇癸酸酯、丙二醇月桂酸酯、丙二醇椰油酸酯、丙二醇肉豆蔻酸酯、丙二醇硬脂酸酯、丙二醇异硬脂酸酯、丙二醇蓖麻醇酸酯、丙二醇藻酸酯、丙二醇柠檬酸酯、丙二醇二乙基己酸酯、丙二醇二癸酸酯、丙二醇二辛酸酯、丙二醇二月桂酸酯、丙二醇二椰油酸酯、丙二醇二硬脂酸酯中的一种或几种。
优选地,所述丙二醇脂肪酸酯优选为丙二醇月桂酸酯。
在一些实例中,所述洗卸二合一组合物体系的pH值为6.5~7.0。
本发明的第二方面,提供了上述洗卸二合一组合物在皮肤清洁制品中的应用。
在一些实例中,所述皮肤清洁制品选自洗面奶、洁颜蜜、洁面泡泡、洁面慕斯或者沐浴露。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有以下的有益效果:
本发明采用特定种类及特定复配重量比的二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯进行复配,并辅以特定重量份的癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酸钾、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类聚甘油-10酯类,通过各组分的协同配合,制备得到的洗卸二合一组合物具有透明的产品外观,且体系的pH值呈中性,一方面能够在洗脸的时候,一次性把脸上的防晒剂+彩妆洗卸干净,便捷高效,皮肤更洁净;没有彩妆或防晒剂的残留担忧;另一方面,更加温和无刺激,肤感更好,对干性皮肤和敏感肌友好;将其添加至皮肤清洁制品基础配方中,制备得到的皮肤清洁制品能够做到清洁力、卸妆力、起泡性的配方平衡。
具体实施方式
以下将结合实施例对本发明的构思及产生的技术效果进行清楚、完整地描述,以充分地理解本发明的目的、特征和效果。显然,所描述的实施例只是本发明的一部分实施例,而不是全部实施例,基于本发明的实施例,本领域的技术人员在不付出创造性劳动的前提下所获得的其他实施例,均属于本发明保护的范围。
以下具体实施方式中,如无特殊说明,均为常规方法;以下具体实施方式所用的原料、试剂材料等,如无特殊说明,均为市售购买产品。
癸基葡萄糖苷:巴斯夫,Plantacare 2000UP;
椰油酰甘氨酸钾:广州市沁盈精细化工有限公司,KWGCK-30;
椰油酸钾:上海瑞世生物科技有限公司,RACE KC-35;
月桂酰两性基乙酸钠:张家港格瑞特化学有限公司,GREMOL C-32;
二羧酸二乙氧基乙酯:琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯:广州科罗德新材料科技有限公司,KLD-DES;
戊二酸二乙氧基乙酯:广州科罗德新材料科技有限公司,KLD-GES;
丙二醇脂肪酸酯:丙二醇月桂酸酯:理研维他精化食品工业(上海)有限公司,TYPEBP;
丙二醇辛酸酯:理研维他精化食品工业(上海)有限公司,TYPE CP;
辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类聚甘油-10酯类:广州科罗德新材料科技有限公司,KLD-PGCA。
各性能指标的测试方法:
泡沫性的测试方法:通过罗氏泡沫仪测试泡沫高度,具体操作方法可以参见罗氏泡沫仪的测试方法;
彩妆卸妆力的测试方法:选取大块牛皮,在牛皮上选取5个1.5cm*3cm区域,每个区域间隔2cm,分别将口红,眼线笔,粉底液,眉笔,眼影涂抹在这五个区域,然后采用实施例制备得到的组合物进行清洗,清洗后采用目视的方法进行评价,观察牛皮纹理中的彩妆残留情况,好代表可以去除干净,一般代表有一定残留,差代表残留较多。
防晒剂卸妆力的测试方法:选取行业公认成膜性较强、难清洗的防晒霜,将防晒涂在手臂上,然后使用实施例制备得到的组合物进行清洗,再使用紫外线照相机进行拍照,观察皮肤黑色印记的深浅,判断防晒剂的残留情况,从而测试出卸除防晒的性能,好代表无印记,一般代表有印记,差代表印记比较深。
刺激性的测试方法:
测试项目:急性皮肤刺激性试验
测试方法:参考《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)第六章毒理学试验方法4、皮肤刺激性/腐蚀性试验。
检测环境:普通级动物房;室温21~23℃,相对湿度55~65%。
实验动物:采用普通级新西兰白色家兔。实验动物体重2.2~2.4kg。
实验动物数量/性别:4只/♀:♂=2:2;
样品处理:按客户要求,稀释10倍测试,即取样品2g,加去离子水至20g,搅拌均匀后作为受试物。
观察时点:清除受试物后的1、24、48和72h观察给予受试物部位的皮肤反应。
试验步骤:(1)选4只健康成年新西兰兔。试验前24h,将实验动物背部脊柱两侧毛剃掉,准备2块去毛区域(每一去毛范围各约3cm×3cm),确认动物皮肤完好无损后进行试验。(2)取受试物0.5mL均匀涂抹于左侧去毛区域2.5cm×2.5cm大小的皮肤上,用斑贴覆盖,然后用无刺激性胶布和绷带加以固定。右侧去毛区域皮肤斑贴覆盖作为对照。贴敷4h后用温水清除残留受试物。于清除受试物后的1、24、48和72h观察受试部位皮肤反应并按方法中表1和表2“皮肤刺激反应评分”进行皮肤刺激反应评分,记录每一观察时点的皮肤反应分值,计算受试动物积分的平均值,根据24、48和72h各观察时点最高积分均值,按方法表3“皮肤刺激强度分级”判定皮肤刺激强度。
表1
表2
表3
透明外观的测试方法:采用目视测试的方法,根据膏体的性状,分为澄清透明、乳白状、浑浊。
实施例A1-A5及对比例B1-B6:洗卸二合一组合物的制备
按照表4的配比,将丙二醇月桂酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类聚甘油-10酯类加热至80℃,然后加入琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯搅拌均匀,继续保持搅拌并逐渐降温至40℃、然后逐个加入癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酸钾、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠进行混匀,调节体系的pH值至6.5~7.0,即得洗卸二合一组合物。
表4实施例A1-A5及对比例B1-B6的各组分配比(重量份)
应用例1:洗卸二合一洁颜蜜
将实施例A1-A5及对比例B1-B6制备得到的洗卸二合一组合物添加至如表5所示的洁颜蜜基础配方中,制备得到的洁颜蜜的清洁力、彩妆卸妆力、防晒剂卸妆力、起泡性、刺激性、产品外观的具体测试结果如表5所示。
表5
应用例2:洗卸二合一洁面慕斯
将实施例A1-A5及对比例B1-B6制备得到的洗卸二合一组合物添加至如表6所示的洁面慕斯基础配方中,制备得到的洁面慕斯的清洁力、彩妆卸妆力、防晒剂卸妆力、起泡性、刺激性、产品外观的具体测试结果如表6所示。
表6
应用例3:洗卸二合一沐浴露
将实施例A1-A5及对比例B1-B6制备得到的洗卸二合一组合物添加至如表7所示的沐浴露基础配方中,制备得到的沐浴露的清洁力、彩妆卸妆力、防晒剂卸妆力、起泡性、刺激性、产品外观的具体测试结果如表7所示。
表7
本发明的上述实施例仅为说明本发明所作的举例,而并非是对本发明的具体实施方式的限定。对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说,在上述举例的基础上还可以做其他不同形式的变化或变动。这里无法对所有的实施方式予以详细举例。凡是属于本发明的技术方案所引申出的显而易见的变化或变动仍处于本发明的保护范围之列。
Claims (4)
1.一种洗卸二合一组合物,按重量份计,包括如下组分:
癸基葡萄糖苷 5份;
椰油酰甘氨酸钾 2份;
椰油酸钾 1份;
月桂酰两性基乙酸钠 3份;
琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯 3-6份;
丙二醇脂肪酸酯 2-4份;
辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类聚甘油-10酯类 2份;
所述琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯与丙二醇脂肪酸酯的复配重量比为(1.5-2.5):1;
所述丙二醇脂肪酸酯为丙二醇月桂酸酯。
2.根据权利要求1所述的洗卸二合一组合物,其特征在于,所述洗卸二合一组合物体系的pH值为6.5~7.0。
3.如权利要求1或2所述的洗卸二合一组合物在皮肤清洁制品中的应用。
4.根据权利要求3所述的应用,所述皮肤清洁制品选自洗面奶、洁颜蜜、洁面泡泡、洁面慕斯或者沐浴露。
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