CN114795980A

CN114795980A - Bicontinuous phase cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114795980A
Application number: CN202210497343.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 关昱旻; 杨云珂; 郑燕珊
Original assignee: Guangzhou Baihaobo Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Baihaobo Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-05-09
Filing date: 2022-05-09
Publication date: 2022-07-29
Anticipated expiration: 2042-05-09
Also published as: CN114795980B

Abstract

The invention discloses a bicontinuous phase cleansing lotion and a preparation method thereof, wherein the bicontinuous phase cleansing lotion comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10-30% of surfactant, wherein the surfactant comprises nonionic surfactant and anionic surfactant, the ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the makeup remover is 10-30%, and the ratio of the anionic surfactant in the makeup remover is 0.1-5%; 5-30% of grease; 5-40% of polyol; water and the balance. According to the invention, the non-ionic surfactant is innovatively matched with the anionic surfactant to construct a bicontinuous phase system, and a proper amount of grease and polyol are matched, so that the obtained bicontinuous phase has the characteristics of high transparency, high stability and high makeup removing capability, the special microemulsion structure of the bicontinuous phase can be verified by a pigment method, and meanwhile, the bicontinuous phase has good makeup removing capability and fresh skin feel after washing.

Description

Bicontinuous phase cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a surfactant composition for a bicontinuous phase system and a bicontinuous phase makeup remover.

Background

The makeup removing products on the market comprise makeup removing water, makeup removing cream, makeup removing oil, makeup removing cream and the like. Wherein, the cleansing water is generally a pure water system, the cleansing oil is generally a pure oil system, and a mixed system of oil-water layering is also provided. Different systems have different makeup removing effects on different makeup removing products, but the skin feeling experience of the makeup removing system is not very good. Through continuous exploration and research, a bicontinuous phase makeup removing product is presented on the market at present, which is not a traditional oil-in-water or water-in-oil system, and the bicontinuous phase is called as 'bicontinuous', because the water phase and the oil phase are respectively continuous. However, most of the double-continuous-phase system cleansing liquids on the market at present are polyglycerol emulsifiers or systems constructed by emulsifiers commonly used in cleansing oils, and the surfactant has a small selection level and certain limitations. And the prior bicontinuous phase system has the problem of poor stability.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide the bicontinuous phase makeup remover, which is constructed by adopting a nonionic surfactant and an anionic surfactant, has a stable system, and has good makeup removing capability and fresh skin feel after washing.

The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid, which has simple and convenient flow and easy operation.

One of the purposes of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:

a bicontinuous phase makeup remover comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10-30% of a surfactant, wherein the surfactant comprises a nonionic surfactant and an anionic surfactant, the ratio of the nonionic surfactant to the makeup remover is 10-30%, and the ratio of the anionic surfactant to the makeup remover is 0.1-5%; 5-30% of grease; 5-40% of polyhydric alcohol; water and the balance.

According to the invention, the nonionic surfactant is innovatively matched with the anionic surfactant to construct a bicontinuous phase system, and a proper amount of grease and polyol are matched, so that the obtained bicontinuous phase has the characteristics of high transparency, high stability and high makeup removing capability, the special microemulsion structure of the bicontinuous phase can be verified by a pigment method, and meanwhile, the bicontinuous phase has good makeup removing capability and fresh skin feel after washing.

Further, the nonionic surfactant includes PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; the anionic surfactant comprises sodium cocoyl malate. The invention adopts a non-ionic surfactant and an anionic surfactant to construct a bicontinuous phase, which is unique, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate and sodium cocoyl malate are not emulsifying agents in the traditional sense, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate is a water-soluble fat-endowing agent, and the sodium cocoyl malate is an anionic surfactant and is usually used for foaming. The two surfactants are innovatively matched, so that the obtained makeup remover has better stability, better skin friendliness, comfort, no greasiness and good makeup removing effect.

Further, the proportion of the PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate in the cleansing liquid is 10-25%; the proportion of the sodium cocoyl malate in the cleansing liquid is 1-5%. The reasonable planning of the dosage of the two surfactants can successfully obtain a double continuous phase system, and the stability is high.

Further, the grease is liquid grease which is one or any combination of isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl carbonate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), C12-15 alcohol benzoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, 26# mineral oil, 15# mineral oil, 7# mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecene, polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopenta dimethyl siloxane; the polyalcohol is one or any combination of glycerol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol and glycerol polyether-26.

Further, one or any combination of essence, chelating agent, preservative and functional components is also included. The essence, antiseptic, and chelating agent can be added into the formula at appropriate amount, such as 0.01-1%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, etc. The preservative can be selected from German Shumei EUXYL K900 preservative, specifically benzyl alcohol ethylhexyl glycerol tocopherol; the amount of the preservative added is 0.1 to 1%, for example, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, etc. The chelating agent may be selected from tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and may be added in an amount of 0.1-1%, such as 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, and the like.

The matching of the polyhydric alcohol, the liquid grease and the surfactant is very critical, the type is not appropriate, the construction of a double-continuous system fails due to the improper dosage, or an unstable phenomenon occurs even if the double-continuous system is successfully constructed, or the conditions of poor makeup removing capability and poor skin feel occur. Therefore, the selection and dosage matching of the polyhydric alcohol, the liquid grease and the surfactant need to be reasonably set.

Further, the paint comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10-30% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 0.1-5% of sodium cocoyl malate; 5-30% of grease; 261-20% of glyceryl polyether; 1-20% of glycerol; 1% -10% of dipropylene glycol; 1% -5% of butanediol; water and the balance.

Further, the paint comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10-30% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 0.1-5% of sodium cocoyl malate; 1-5% of cyclopentasiloxane; 1-10% coco-caprylate/caprate; 0-5% of C15-19 alkyl; 261-20% of glyceryl polyether; 1-20% of glycerol; 1-10% of dipropylene glycol; 1-5% of butanediol; water and the balance.

Further, the paint comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10-25% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 1-5% of sodium cocoyl malate; 1-5% of cyclopentasiloxane; 1-10% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate/caprate; 0-5% of C15-19 alkyl; glycerol polyether-262-15%; 2-15% of glycerol; 1-10% of dipropylene glycol; 1-5% of butanediol; water and the balance.

Further, the PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate was selected from OXYPON 2145, a commercially available raw material produced by sema chemistry.

Further, the sodium cocoyl malate is selected from the commercial raw material PROTEOLAPL EF produced by french saibik.

Further, the coco-caprylate/caprate is selected from the commercially available raw material liponate CCC MB manufactured by VANTAGE.

Further, the cyclopentasiloxane was selected from commercial raw material CM5 manufactured by ELKEM.

The second purpose of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:

a preparation method of a bicontinuous phase cleansing lotion comprises the following steps:

mixing the grease and the nonionic surfactant according to the formula amount, if the formula also comprises essence, adding the mixture in the step, stirring to dissolve, and uniformly mixing to obtain a first mixture;

adding the polyol with the formula amount into the first mixture, and uniformly stirring to obtain a second mixture;

adding water and anionic surfactant into the second mixture, and adding chelating agent and antiseptic if the formula also contains chelating agent and antiseptic, and stirring.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) according to the bicontinuous phase makeup remover provided by the invention, a bicontinuous phase system is creatively constructed by using a nonionic surfactant and an anionic surfactant, and a proper amount of grease and polyhydric alcohol are matched, so that the obtained bicontinuous phase has the characteristics of high transparency, high stability and high makeup removing capability, and the special microemulsion structure of the bicontinuous phase can be verified by a pigment method. The bicontinuous phase makeup remover disclosed by the invention can be effectively compatible with water and oil without emulsification, is not greasy after being cleaned, has little residual feeling, and has good makeup removing capability and fresh skin feeling after being cleaned.

(2) The preparation method of the bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid provided by the invention is simple and convenient in process and easy to operate.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a physical representation of a bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to example 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a physical representation of the bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to example 2 of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a physical diagram of the cleansing liquid of comparative example 1;

FIG. 4 is a physical diagram of the cleansing liquid of comparative example 2;

FIG. 5 is a physical diagram of the cleansing liquid of comparative example 3;

FIG. 6 is a physical diagram of the cleansing liquid of comparative example 4;

FIG. 7 is a physical diagram of the cleansing liquid of comparative example 5;

FIG. 8 is a diagram showing the effects of the cleansing liquid of embodiment 1 of the present invention after the water-soluble pigment and the oil-soluble pigment are added and left alone, respectively;

FIG. 9 is a graph showing the effect of delamination of the makeup remover of comparative example 1 after addition of an oil-soluble pigment.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further described below with reference to specific embodiments, and it should be noted that, without conflict, any combination between the embodiments or technical features described below may form a new embodiment.

Most of the double continuous phase system cleansing liquids on the market at present are polyglycerol emulsifiers or systems constructed by emulsifiers commonly used in cleansing oils. The invention creatively uses the nonionic surfactant and the anionic surfactant to construct a bicontinuous phase system, and compounds a proper amount of grease and polyol, so that the obtained makeup remover has continuous water-oil phases, the surfactant is distributed on a water-oil interface, the stability is high, and the makeup remover has excellent makeup removing effect and fresh skin feel after washing.

The bicontinuous phase cleansing fluid provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10-30% of surfactant, wherein the surfactant comprises nonionic surfactant and anionic surfactant, the ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the makeup remover is 10-30%, and the ratio of the anionic surfactant in the makeup remover is 0.1-5%; 5-30% of grease; 5-40% of polyhydric alcohol; water and the balance.

In an embodiment of the invention, the PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate is selected from the group consisting of OXYPON 2145, a commercially available feedstock produced by sema chemistry; sodium cocoyl malate is selected from Proteolapl EF, a commercially available material produced by Spacebic; the coco-caprylate/caprate is selected from liponate CCC MB, a commercially available raw material from VANTAGE; cyclopenta-polydimethylsiloxane was selected from commercial material CM5 from ELKEM.

Examples 1 to 6

A bicontinuous phase cleansing liquid is prepared from PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, sodium cocoyl malic acid, liquid oil and fat, polyalcohol, water, essence, antiseptic, chelating agent, etc. The details are shown in table 1 below.

TABLE 1 formulation tables for examples and comparative examples

The bicontinuous phase makeup removers of examples 1-6 were prepared as follows:

weighing cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, coconut oil alcohol-caprylate/caprate, essence and PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate according to the amount, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a first mixture;

weighing glycerol polyether-26, glycerol, dipropylene glycol and butanediol according to the amount, adding into the first mixture, and uniformly stirring to obtain a second mixture;

and weighing the water, the sodium cocoyl malate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and the preservative according to the amount, adding the weighed materials into the second mixture, and stirring the materials uniformly.

Comparative example 1

Comparative example 1 differs from example 1 in that: the amount of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate was increased, and the specific formulation is shown in Table 1.

Comparative example 2

Comparative example 2 differs from example 1 in that: the total amount of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate and oil is increased, and polyol is omitted, and the specific formula is shown in Table 1.

Comparative example 3

Comparative example 3 differs from example 1 in that: the total amount of the grease is increased, and the specific formula is shown in table 1.

Comparative example 4

Comparative example 4 differs from example 1 in that: the amount of polyol was reduced and the specific formulation is shown in Table 1.

Comparative example 5

Comparative example 5 differs from example 1 in that: the amount of sodium cocoyl malate and the amount of polyol were increased, and the specific formulation is shown in table 1.

Comparative example 6

Comparative example 6 differs from example 1 in that: the sodium cocoyl malate was replaced with sodium surfactin, and the specific formulation is shown in table 1.

Comparative example 7

Comparative example 7 differs from example 1 in that: the PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate was replaced with sorbitan polyether tetraoleate, the specific formulation of which is shown in Table 1.

Effect verification

First, appearance and stability experiments

After the makeup remover of examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 7 was prepared, the appearance thereof was observed and the appearance characterization was recorded in table 2. The photographed images are recorded, and the appearance diagrams of the cleansing liquids of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 5 are shown in FIGS. 1 to 7, respectively.

The stability experiments included the following tests:

test 1: standing at normal temperature for 3 months;

and (3) testing 2: standing at 48 deg.C for 1 month;

and (3) testing: standing at-15 deg.C for 1 month;

and (4) testing: standing at 4 deg.C for 1 month;

and (5) testing: high and low temperatures of 48 ℃ and 15 ℃ are circulated, and the circulation is carried out 3 times after the mixture is placed at each temperature for 1 month.

TABLE 2 appearance and stability results for examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-7

FIGS. 1-2 are external views of the cleansing liquids of examples 1-2, respectively, and it can be seen from the external views that the cleansing liquids of examples 1-2 are transparent and not layered, and the effect views of the cleansing liquids of examples 3-6 are similar to those of examples 1-2, and are not repeated herein. And the combination stability results show that the cleansing liquids of examples 1 to 6 have high stability.

FIGS. 3 to 7 are graphs showing the effects of the cleansing liquids of comparative examples 1 to 5, respectively, and it can be seen from the graphs that the system of comparative example 2 is in the form of a paste by adding PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate and the amount of oil and fat. Comparative example 1 the amount of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate was increased and the system was stratified and emulsified as the upper layer. Comparative example 3 the amount of oil was increased, the system was stratified, and the upper layer was emulsified. Comparative example 4 the amount of polyol was reduced, the system was layered, and the upper layer was emulsified. Comparative example 5 the amount of sodium cocoyl malate was increased, the system was stratified, and the upper layer was emulsified. And none of comparative examples 1 to 5 passed the stability test, the delamination phenomenon was more pronounced than immediately after the preparation.

Comparative examples 6 to 7 replaced the surfactant, and the makeup remover was also subject to delamination, which was aggravated in the stability test.

In conclusion, the embodiment of the invention adopts the nonionic surfactant (PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate) and the anionic surfactant (sodium cocoyl malate) to construct a bicontinuous phase system, and the appropriate amount of grease and polyhydric alcohol are compounded, so that the obtained makeup remover has continuous water phase and oil phase, transparent appearance and high stability. In addition, the amounts of the surfactants PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate and sodium cocoyl malate in the bicontinuous phase system of the present invention are most preferred in example 1, and the total amount of oil and fat is the same as in examples 1 and 2, the system is also preferred.

Two, two continuous phase verification experiment

The bicontinuous phase determination method comprises the following steps: and respectively adding a water-soluble pigment and an oil-soluble pigment into the makeup remover, standing for 2 hours at normal temperature, observing color distribution, and judging that the construction of the bicontinuous phase is successful if the color distribution is uniform. Can be displayed uniformly.

FIG. 8 is a graph showing the effect of the makeup remover according to example 1 after the pigment is added and left, and the left bottle of FIG. 8 shows that the red water-soluble pigment is uniformly and stably distributed and the right bottle shows that the yellow oil-soluble pigment is uniformly and stably distributed. This illustrates example 1 as a bicontinuous phase. The effects of examples 2 to 6 are similar to those of example 1 and will not be described herein.

FIG. 9 is a graph showing the effect of the cleansing liquid of comparative example 1 after addition of an oil-soluble pigment, wherein the delamination is significant, indicating that comparative example 1 is not a bicontinuous phase system. The effects of comparative examples 2 to 7 are similar to those of comparative example 1 and will not be described in detail.

Third, volunteer test

15 persons of 20-50 years old volunteers were selected, each volunteer was allowed to write 6 oily marker markers on their hands, and then each volunteer wiped 6 markers on their hands using the makeup remover of examples 1-6, and 1 marker on each makeup remover. The results were averaged from the two indicators of cleanliness and after-flush freshness, with a full score of 10, the higher the score, the higher the evaluation, and the results were averaged from 15 volunteers as shown in table 3 below.

TABLE 3 volunteer test results recording sheet

10 minutes and full	Example 1	Example 2	Example 3	Example 4	Example 5	Example 6
							Degree of cleanliness	10	6.8	7.5	6.3	9	8.6
Freshness after flushing	9.1	8.2	8.5	7.2	8.8	8.3

From the results, the effect of example 1 is the best. The grease of example 2 was changed as compared with example 1, and the use effect was deteriorated. The results in table 3 show that the matching of the surfactant, the polyol and the liquid oil according to the embodiment of the present invention not only affects whether the bicontinuous phase is successfully constructed, but also affects the use effect, the makeup removal effect and the skin feel.

The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention should not be limited thereby, and any insubstantial changes and substitutions made by those skilled in the art based on the present invention are intended to be covered by the claims.

Claims

1. The bicontinuous phase cleansing fluid is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 10-30% of surfactant, wherein the surfactant comprises nonionic surfactant and anionic surfactant, the ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the makeup remover is 10-30%, and the ratio of the anionic surfactant in the makeup remover is 0.1-5%; 5-30% of grease; 5-40% of polyhydric alcohol; water and the balance.

2. The bicontinuous phase cosmetic remover of claim 1, wherein said non-ionic surfactant comprises PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; the anionic surfactant comprises sodium cocoyl malate.

3. The bicontinuous phase cosmetic remover according to claim 2, wherein the proportion of said PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate in said cosmetic remover is 10-25%; the proportion of the sodium cocoyl malate in the cleansing liquid is 1-5%.

4. The bicontinuous phase cleansing fluid according to claim 1 wherein said oil is a liquid oil, said liquid oil is selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl carbonate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), C12-15 alcohol benzoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, 26# mineral oil, 15# mineral oil, 7# mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecene, polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, or any combination thereof; the polyalcohol is one or any combination of glycerol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol and glycerol polyether-26.

5. The bicontinuous phase cleansing fluid of claim 1, further comprising one or any combination of fragrances, chelating agents, preservatives, and functional ingredients.

6. The bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to claim 1, comprising the following components in weight percent: 10-30% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 0.1-5% of sodium cocoyl malate; 5-30% of grease; 261-20% of glyceryl polyether; 1-20% of glycerol; 1% -10% of dipropylene glycol; 1% -5% of butanediol; water and the balance.

7. The bicontinuous phase cleansing fluid of claim 1, comprising the following components in weight percent: 10-30% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 0.1-5% of sodium cocoyl malate; 1-5% of cyclopentasiloxane; 1-10% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate/caprate; 0-5% of C15-19 alkyl; 261-20% of glyceryl polyether; 1-20% of glycerol; 1-10% of dipropylene glycol; 1-5% of butanediol; water and the balance.

8. The bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to claim 1, comprising the following components in weight percent: 10-25% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 1-5% of sodium cocoyl malate; 1-5% of cyclopentasiloxane; 1-10% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate/caprate; 0-5% of C15-19 alkyl; glycerol polyether-262-15%; 2-15% of glycerol; 1-10% of dipropylene glycol; 1-5% of butanediol; water and the balance.

9. The bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to claim 1, comprising the following components in weight percent: 20% of PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate; 1.2% of sodium cocoyl malate; 3.8% of cyclopentasiloxane; coco alcohol-caprylate/caprate 6%; glyceryl polyether-2615%; 15% of glycerol; 5% of dipropylene glycol; 4.5 percent of butanediol; 0.5 percent of preservative; 0.1% of chelating agent; 0.2 percent of essence; water and the balance.

10. A method of preparing a bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to any one of claims 1-9, comprising the steps of: