CN114699352B - 一种玫瑰面膜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种玫瑰面膜及其制备方法。玫瑰面膜由膜剂和粉剂组成；所述膜剂由以下组分组成：烟酰胺、燕麦提取物、龙胆根提取物、1,2‑己二醇、丁二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、泛醇、甜菜碱、尿囊素、丙三醇、羟乙基纤维素、海藻酸钠、水；所述粉剂由以下组分组成：玫瑰花粉、羟苯甲酯、硫酸钙。本申请的玫瑰面膜美白控油，且皮肤弹性有光泽，安全无刺激。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域，尤其涉及一种玫瑰面膜及其制备方法。
背景技术
面膜是一种集清洁、护肤和美容为一体的多用途化妆品，将其短暂覆盖于脸面部，隔离外界的空气与污染，提高肌肤温度，扩张毛孔，利用其活性成分实现美白、修复、抗衰、收敛毛孔等功能。
玫瑰花中富含氨基酸、维生素C、有机酸、原花青素、类黄酮素等多种对人体皮肤有益的天然活性物，能使肌肤水润、光亮，是化妆品中常用原料。烟酰胺可以直接阻止黑色素转移，导致黑色素无法沉积，增进角蛋白、胶原等蛋白质合成，并加快角蛋白细胞的分化，同时促进水油平衡。但是要达到这样的效果，烟酰胺的浓度需要达到1％以上，大多数消费者面部肌肤不能承受高浓度烟酰胺的刺激，容易出现干燥泛红发炎刺痛甚至肿胀，即出现不耐受现象。并且，烟酰胺不稳定，在pH值大于或小于6的环境中稳定性不佳，容易发生水解反应，形成药理学与毒性高于烟酰胺的烟酸，这是出现过敏反应的根本原因。因此，需要具有保湿和消炎功效的成分弥补烟酰胺的缺陷，同时提供稳定烟酰胺的环境。现有的烟酰胺产品大多仍不能很好地平衡刺激性，需要通过降低烟酰胺用量降低刺激性，但是面膜在面部停留时间短，低用量将导致面膜使用效果不明显。
发明内容
本发明的首要目的在于克服现有技术的缺点与不足，提供一种玫瑰面膜。
本发明的另一目的在于提供上述玫瑰面膜的制备方法。
本发明的目的通过下述技术方案实现：一种玫瑰面膜，由膜剂和粉剂组成；所述膜剂由以下重量百分比计的组分组成：烟酰胺1-5％、燕麦提取物0.05-0.3％、龙胆根提取物0.1-1％、1,2-己二醇0.1-0.6％、丁二醇2-8％、对羟基苯乙酮0.2-1％、泛醇0.05-0.3％、甜菜碱0.5-4％、尿囊素0.01-0.5％、丙三醇1-5％、羟乙基纤维素0.1-0.5％、海藻酸钠1-3％、水余量；所述粉剂由以下重量百分比计的组分组成：玫瑰花粉95-99.9％、羟苯甲酯0.01-0.2％、硫酸钙0.01-0.5％。
优选地，所述玫瑰面膜，所述膜剂由以下重量百分比计的组分组成：烟酰胺2％、燕麦提取物0.15％、龙胆根提取物0.5％、1,2-己二醇0.4％、丁二醇5％、对羟基苯乙酮0.4％、泛醇0.11％、甜菜碱2％、尿囊素0.1％、丙三醇3％、羟乙基纤维素0.5％、海藻酸钠2.5％、水余量；所述粉剂由以下重量百分比计的组分组成：玫瑰花粉99.9％、羟苯甲酯0.05％、硫酸钙0.05％。
优选地，所述龙胆根提取物为龙胆根提取物、1,2-丙二醇和水按照质量比3-5％、55-60％、35-42％配比的复配物。
优选地，所述玫瑰花粉是将新鲜干净的玫瑰花瓣真空冷冻干燥得到。低温冻干的玫瑰花粉最大限度地保持生物活性。
本申请的面膜中通过添加燕麦提取物、泛醇、龙胆根提取物，三者协同增效，防止烟酰胺刺激肌肤，达到良好地保护皮肤屏障、抵御并抑制刺激、消除干燥泛红发炎刺痛甚至肿胀等过敏反应、消炎杀菌作用；通过添加尿囊素、甜菜碱、丙三醇、丁二醇、1,2-己二醇，达到良好地保湿补水效果，同时调理肌肤状态，肌肤在水润状态下，烟酰胺可以更好地被吸收；玫瑰花粉也可以起到很好地保湿锁水作用，同时收敛毛孔，改善粗糙状态，使皮肤细腻有光泽；通过控制以上补水保湿成分、抗敏修复成分以及成膜组分海藻酸钠和羟乙基纤维素的用量，将面膜的pH控制在6左右，不仅面膜粘性稳定，能够很好地服帖于面部，且烟酰胺稳定，不会水解成烟酸；海藻酸钠和羟乙基纤维素可以很好地分散活性成分，具有很好的乳化温度、增稠、成膜作用。
上述玫瑰面膜的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将膜剂物料泛醇、甜菜碱、尿囊素、部分丁二醇、丙三醇、羟乙基纤维素、藻酸钠、大部分水均质至料体分散均匀，搅拌升温至80-85℃，均质至无颗粒，保持转速搅拌至消泡，降温至50℃，加入剩余丁二醇和对羟基苯乙酮，搅拌均匀；降温至42℃，加入1,2-己二醇、龙胆根提取物和燕麦提取物，搅拌均匀；降温至38℃，加入烟酰胺和剩余水，搅拌均匀，过滤，得到膜剂；
(2)将粉剂物料玫瑰花粉、羟苯甲酯和硫酸钙搅拌均匀，得到粉剂。
优选地，步骤(1)中所述剩余丁二醇和对羟基苯乙酮预先混合溶解。
优选地，步骤(1)中所述烟酰胺和剩余水预先混合溶解。
优选地，步骤(1)中所述过滤为采用50-100目滤布过滤。
上述玫瑰面膜的使用方法为：将膜剂和粉剂按照质量比5：1混合均匀后使用。为了避免乳化时二次加热破坏玫瑰粉的生物活性，将配方设计成粉剂和膜剂两剂类型的面膜，使用时将包括玫瑰花粉在内的粉剂与膜剂混合，当玫瑰花粉遇到膜剂中的水份时立即恢复活性。通过这种方法最大限度地将玫瑰花中的活性物质应用于面膜中。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
本申请的玫瑰面膜美白控油，且皮肤弹性有光泽，安全无刺激。
具体实施方式
下面将对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
燕麦提取物：舒敏素，广州科罗德；
玫瑰花粉：将新鲜干净的玫瑰花瓣真空冷冻干燥得到；
龙胆根提取物：龙胆抗刺激因子，伽能生物；
以下实施例、对比例中其他组分均为市售。
实施例1
一种玫瑰面膜，各组分用量见表1和表2。
表1膜剂物料(重量百分比)
表2粉剂物料(重量百分比)
玫瑰面膜的制备方法如下：
(1)将膜剂物料中A组分2000转/分钟均质6min，得到分散均匀的料体，1000转/分钟搅拌升温至85℃，2000转/分钟均质5min，得到无颗粒的物料，保持转速搅拌15min至消泡，降温至50℃，加入预先溶解的B组分，搅拌均匀；降温至42℃，加入C组分，搅拌均匀；降温至38℃，加入预先溶解的D组分，搅拌均匀，100目滤布过滤，得到膜剂。
(2)将粉剂物料玫瑰花粉、羟苯甲酯和硫酸钙2000转/分钟搅拌均匀，得到粉剂。
(3)将膜剂和粉剂按照质量比5：1混合均匀。
对比例1
将实施例1中膜剂物料尿囊素替换为等量的去离子水。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
对比例2
将实施例1中膜剂物料甜菜碱替换为等量的去离子水。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
对比例3
将实施例1中膜剂物料丙三醇替换为等量的去离子水。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
对比例4
将实施例1中膜剂物料泛醇替换为等量的去离子水。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
对比例5
将实施例1中膜剂物料龙胆根提取物替换为等量的去离子水。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
对比例6
将实施例1中膜剂物料燕麦提取物替换为等量的去离子水。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
对比例7
将实施例1中粉剂物料玫瑰花粉的用量调整为75％，减少的用量采用去离子水补充。面膜制备方法同实施例1。
外观和理化指标应符合：
外观：透明粘稠液体；
pH值：体积比1:10的水溶液pH值为6.0±0.2；
耐热(45±2℃)：2个月，恢复室温，无异常；
耐寒(-18±2℃)：2个月，恢复室温，无异常；
循环测试：采用高低温冷热循环箱循环测试三个月(45℃、-18℃)，未发现异常。
经过检测，实施例1-3、对比例1-7的面膜符合以上标准。
功效测试
测试对象：100名受试对象，分为10组，10人一组。测试对象肌肤健康，年龄20-30岁之间，受试期间不能使用任何其他美白控油产品。
受试样品：实施例1-3、对比例1-7制备的面膜。
测试环境：温度25℃，湿度50％。
测试方法：受试对象脸部作为试验区域，均匀涂抹面膜，涂抹量为10克/次；每2天使用一次，一次15min。于实验开始后第30天测试使用效果，每个样品的测试结果为每组10人的平均值。
美白效果测试：采用MPA6皮肤测试仪搭配Mexameter MX18黑色素和血红素测试探头测试皮肤黑色素含量变化。
控油效果测试：采用德国CK的皮肤油脂测试仪Sebumeter SM815测试最后一次使用完面膜后0min到60min的油脂含量，计算增量；使用面膜前洗完脸0min到60min的油脂含量增量作为对照。
弹性测试：采用ISIA CR测试皮肤弹性。
光泽度测试：采用亿衡EH-900U皮肤测试仪搭配德国CK GL200探头测试皮肤光泽度。
刺激性测试：最后一次使用面膜后观察皮肤，根据《化妆品接触性皮炎诊断标准及处理原则》，其分类判定的标准如表2所示。
表2
表3
以上所述是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (6)
1.一种玫瑰面膜，其特征在于，由膜剂和粉剂组成；
所述膜剂由以下重量百分比计的组分组成：烟酰胺2%、燕麦提取物0.15%、龙胆根提取物0.5%、1,2-己二醇0.4%、丁二醇5%、对羟基苯乙酮0.4%、泛醇0.11%、甜菜碱2%、尿囊素0.1%、丙三醇3%、羟乙基纤维素0.5%、海藻酸钠2.5%、水余量；
所述粉剂由以下重量百分比计的组分组成：玫瑰花粉99.9%、羟苯甲酯0.05%、硫酸钙0.05%。
2.根据权利要求1所述玫瑰面膜，其特征在于，所述玫瑰花粉是将新鲜干净的玫瑰花瓣真空冷冻干燥得到。
3.权利要求1-2任一项所述玫瑰面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
（1）将膜剂物料泛醇、甜菜碱、尿囊素、部分丁二醇、丙三醇、羟乙基纤维素、海藻酸钠、大部分水均质至料体分散均匀，搅拌升温至80-85℃，均质至无颗粒，保持转速搅拌至消泡，降温至50℃，加入剩余丁二醇和对羟基苯乙酮，搅拌均匀；降温至42℃，加入1,2-己二醇、龙胆根提取物和燕麦提取物，搅拌均匀；降温至38℃，加入烟酰胺和剩余水，搅拌均匀，过滤，得到膜剂；
（2）将粉剂物料玫瑰花粉、羟苯甲酯和硫酸钙搅拌均匀，得到粉剂。
4.根据权利要求3所述玫瑰面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，
步骤（1）中所述剩余丁二醇和对羟基苯乙酮预先混合溶解；
步骤（1）中所述烟酰胺和剩余水预先混合溶解。
5.根据权利要求3所述玫瑰面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤（1）中所述过滤为采用50-100目滤布过滤。
6.权利要求1-2任一项所述玫瑰面膜的使用方法，其特征在于，将膜剂和粉剂按照质量比5：1混合均匀后使用。
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