CN114557920A - 一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼及其制造方法 - Google Patents
一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼及其制造方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114557920A CN114557920A CN202210205500.3A CN202210205500A CN114557920A CN 114557920 A CN114557920 A CN 114557920A CN 202210205500 A CN202210205500 A CN 202210205500A CN 114557920 A CN114557920 A CN 114557920A
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- triethoxyoctylsilane
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- moisturizing
- baked
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Abstract
本发明公开并提供了一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼及其制造方法，可有效解决易脱妆、不持久的问题，还能够避免使用者使用后出现干燥的现象。所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石；硅酸铝钙钠；硫酸钡；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯；氢化聚癸烯；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯；苯氧乙醇；乙基己基甘油；汉生胶；甘油；聚山梨醇酯‑80；去离子水；透明质酸钠；烟酰胺。制备方法：先制作基础粉相、油相和胶相，三者混合搅拌均匀再切块，冷却后烘烤即可。本发明应用于化妆品的技术领域。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域，特别涉及一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼及其制造方法。
背景技术
化妆，能表现出人物独有自然美，能改善人物原有的”形“”色“”质“，增添美感和魅力。随着经济的发展与社会进步，人们外出前进行化妆已经是当下习以为常的惯例。作为新时代的化妆品之一，粉饼也是有化妆需求人们的常备化妆品。
目前，市面上大多数的粉饼均采用普通压制成型，表面都是压粉布的纹路，粉体表面的形状比较单一，纹路也不够细腻。在现有的粉饼中，普遍存在上妆后会随着面部分泌油脂、汗液等而随之脱落，造成使用者在使用后需要频繁的补妆，为使用者带来不便。如公开号为CN109820741A的专利，一种粉饼及其制备方法，其披露的粉饼由以下份额的组分组成：滑石粉20份，云母粉50份，普通面粉24份，天然矿物质粉1份，所述的组分B包括按照以下份数配比的原料：硅石30份，芦荟浸泡液7份，白茶提取液4份，尿囊素9份，羟乙基尿素1 .8份，葡萄籽油4份，聚二甲基硅氧烷2份，茶树油2份，玻尿酸原液8份，甘油2份，透明质酸钠6份，柑橘果皮提取物5份，香精2份。造成脱妆的原因有多方面，原因主要有两种：一是因粉状粉饼的疏水性不够强，使产品在遇到脸部分泌的汗液时与之融合，从而随着汗液的滑落而脱落；二是粉状粉饼的吸油控油的能力不够好，使得脸部分泌出的油脂极易达到粉体结构的吸油值，当粉块无法满足油脂的吸附，从而会油脂一同脱落。另外，现有的粉饼在使用时会出现拔干现象，造成皮肤表面水油平衡不均，令使用者皮肤出现干燥的现象。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是克服现有技术的不足，提供了一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼及其制造方法，可有效解决易脱妆、不持久的问题，同时能够避免使用者使用后出现干燥的现象。
本发明所采用的技术方案是：
一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼，所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母20%-30%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼1%-5%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石1%-5%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石5%-10%；硅酸铝钙钠5%-10%；硫酸钡5%-10%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.1%-5%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.1%-5%；氢化聚癸烯0.1%-5%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯0.1%-5%；苯氧乙醇0.1%-0.5%；乙基己基甘油0.01%-0.5%；汉生胶0.1%-0.5%；甘油1%-5%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%-5%；去离子水30%-60%；透明质酸钠0.01%-0.5%；烟酰胺0.01%-0.5%。
进一步，所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母22%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼4%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石4%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石6%；硅酸铝钙钠6%；硫酸钡8%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.5%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.4%；氢化聚癸烯1%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯2.6%；苯氧乙醇0.45%；乙基己基甘油0.05%；汉生胶0.2%；甘油2%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%；去离子水41.66%；透明质酸钠0.04%；烟酰胺0.1%。
进一步，所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母26%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼1%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石5%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石5%；硅酸铝钙钠5%；硫酸钡5%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.2%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.3%；氢化聚癸烯2%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯2%；苯氧乙醇0.45%；乙基己基甘油0.05%；汉生胶0.2%；甘油1%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%；去离子水45.78%；透明质酸钠0.01%；烟酰胺0.01%。
进一步，所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母25%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼4%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石1%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石8%；硅酸铝钙钠5%；硫酸钡5%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.3%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.4%；氢化聚癸烯1.3%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯2.3%；苯氧乙醇0.45%；乙基己基甘油0.05%；汉生胶0.2%；甘油1%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%；去离子水44.96%；透明质酸钠0.02%；烟酰胺0.02%。
一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼的制造方法，该制造方法包括如下步骤：
a、先将三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼、三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母/氧化锌/羟基磷灰石、三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石、硅酸铝钙钠、硫酸钡投入3000rpm/min粉碎机中进行粉碎10s，制得基础粉相；
b、将二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、氢化聚癸烯、鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酯、苯氧乙醇、乙基己基甘油加热搅拌至80℃，制得油相；
c、先将汉生胶与甘油相互混合均匀，再加入聚山梨醇酯-80和水搅拌均匀，再加入透明质酸钠和烟酰胺，用搅拌机进行搅拌，使得各项搅拌均匀制得水胶，即胶相；
d、将油相与胶相预先混合搅拌均匀，而后加入基础粉相搅拌均匀，得到非牛顿流体的粉块；
e、将粉块按需求量切取，放入硅胶模套中，抹平粉块后放入-10摄氏度冷冻柜中冷冻45min成型；放入50摄氏度恒温箱中烘烤12h后取出，制得成品。
本发明的有益效果是：
1、本发明配方通过产生微乳化效果，形成水包油包裹体系，再与粉体形成非牛顿流体，灌入带有清晰细腻纹路的硅胶模具中，再进行快速冷冻，使流体粉快速成型。放入50摄氏度恒温烘焙箱中烘焙12h，使产品中多余的水分彻底烘烤完。最终形成表面形状多样且表面纹路细腻清晰的粉饼，因采用烘焙方式，使得粉体整体的通透性与贴服性较普通压制的粉饼有了很大的提升；
2、本发明通过在配方中添加三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石将脸部油脂吸附，解决因粉饼在上妆后容易因脸部出油脱落的问题，使妆容更加持久，给肌肤带来更加通透的妆容；配方中添加板状型硫酸钡，可以抑制皮肤因其他粉体而造成皮肤的损伤，从而增强皮肤表面的保湿效果。并由于此两原料的通透轻薄的效果，在上妆后仍能使肌肤自然呼吸，减少皮肤因上粉产生的厚重感，使妆容更加的通透与自然。消费者使用后肤感贴肤细腻，无浮粉、卡粉现象；
3、本发明的配方之中不添加滑石粉及伴生粉末，采用玉米淀粉、绢云母粉、黏质型硬脂酸镁将整体粉质结构整合稳定，使产品在使用时对人体更加安全，符合当下国内外对于安全美妆的诉求；
4、本发明的配方中通过添加板状硫酸钡、甘油、透明质酸钠与烟酰胺，对上妆后的肌肤更加呵护，为肌肤调节水分平衡，降低因粉块粉饼上妆后对肌肤带来的干燥，提升肌肤的保湿效果，填充肌肤软组织与淡化脸部皱纹。
具体实施方式
实施例一
所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：
配方中各原料的作用：
三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母：提供绵滑的肤感，提供些许亮度，降低粉质暗沉；
聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼：为产品提供丝滑的肤感，增加粉体在上妆时的贴服性；
三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石：带来优异的贴服性、增强控油效果并且不因吸油后出现暗沉、兼具消炎与杀菌功效；
三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石：球型多孔材料，吸附脸部油脂，长效持妆；
硅酸铝钙钠：提供自然的遮盖效果，优异的柔焦效果，在粉饼上妆后能提供通透自然的妆容，并能隐匿地遮盖皮肤瑕疵，展现雾面妆容；
硫酸钡：板状型硫酸钡，可以抑制皮肤因其他粉体而造成皮肤的损伤，从而增强皮肤表面的保湿效果；
透明质酸钠：具有在体内发挥保水、维持细胞外空间、调节渗透压、润滑、促进细胞修复的特性，为肌肤提供保湿效果，减少因粉体上妆而对肌肤产生的干燥感；
烟酰胺：减少皮脂中脂肪酸与甘油三酯的产生，减少皮脂分泌，减少皮肤的细纹和皱纹；
二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷：柔润剂，提供润滑肤感，不粘腻，增强配方配伍性；
甘油：良好的保湿剂，在肌肤表面形成保湿层，为肌肤提供最好的保湿效果；
苯氧乙醇、乙基己基甘油：防腐剂；
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯：很容易被 皮肤吸收 ,对化妆品的均匀细腻起到很好的作用,使皮肤润滑有光泽；
氢化聚癸烯：一种不粘稠的柔润剂,能产生如丝般光滑的感觉；
鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯：防水性能特别优异的柔润剂，具有透气性和铺展性好，不粘腻，具有增稠功效，能滋润柔软肌肤；
汉生胶：增稠剂，为C相水胶提供增稠效果，同时做到配方中利用其粘性，黏合粉体，为粉体的聚合与成型提供足够的聚合力；
聚山梨醇酯-80：非离子型表面活性剂及乳化剂，促进配方中的油脂与水胶达到水包油乳化效果，能更好的与粉体形成非牛顿流体的效果。
实施例二
所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：
实施例三
所述烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：
对比组一
传统粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：
对比组二
传统粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：
效果对比：
疏水性：
控油性：
保湿性：
结论：本发明针对现有技术的不足之处，采用新的粉质体系，在配方中添加三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石将脸部油脂吸附，解决因粉饼在上妆后容易因脸部出油脱落的问题，使妆容更加持久，给肌肤带来更加通透的妆容；配方中添加板状型硫酸钡，可以抑制皮肤因其他粉体而造成皮肤的损伤，从而增强皮肤表面的保湿效果。
在脸部出汗后，使用疏水处理的粉体作为配方支架结构，再添加二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷，涂抹后为皮肤带来清爽丝滑的感觉，避免妆容随着汗水一同脱落。解决了粉状粉饼容易脱妆、不持久、皮肤易干燥起皮等问题；使用后贴肤爽滑，无结块和积粉现象，效果持久。
在配方中添加透明质酸钠与烟酰胺，透明质酸钠具有在体内发挥保水、维持细胞外空间、调节渗透压、润滑、促进细胞修复的特性。填充肌肤软组织与淡化脸部皱纹，减少因粉饼上妆后粉体对皮肤产生的干燥感，提升皮肤的锁水能力，为皮肤的水油平衡提供保障；烟酰胺可以减少皮脂中脂肪酸与甘油三酯的产生，减少皮脂分泌，进而缩小毛孔使皮肤更加平滑，减少皮肤的细纹和皱纹，增加肌肤弹性。
配方油脂（B相）搭配水胶（C相）利用聚山梨醇酯-80产生微乳化效果，形成水包油包裹体系，再与粉体（A相）相互搅拌形成非牛顿流体，灌入带有清晰细腻纹路的硅胶模具中，再进行快速冷冻，使流体粉快速成型。放入50摄氏度恒温烘焙箱中烘焙12h，使产品中多余的水分彻底烘烤完。
最终形成表面形状多样且表面纹路细腻清晰的粉饼，因采用烘焙方式，使得粉体整体的通透性与贴服性较普通压制的粉饼有了很大的提升。
虽然本发明的实施例是以实际方案来描述的，但是并不构成对本发明含义的限制，对于本领域的技术人员，根据本说明书对其实施方案的修改及与其他方案的组合都是显而易见的。
Claims (5)
1.一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼，其特征在于：所述一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母20%-30%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼1%-5%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石1%-5%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石5%-10%；硅酸铝钙钠5%-10%；硫酸钡5%-10%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.1%-5%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.1%-5%；氢化聚癸烯0.1%-5%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯0.1%-5%；苯氧乙醇0.1%-0.5%；乙基己基甘油0.01%-0.5%；汉生胶0.1%-0.5%；甘油1%-5%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%-5%；去离子水30%-60%；透明质酸钠0.01%-0.5%；烟酰胺0.01%-0.5%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼，其特征在于：所述一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母22%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼4%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石4%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石6%；硅酸铝钙钠6%；硫酸钡8%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.5%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.4%；氢化聚癸烯1%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯2.6%；苯氧乙醇0.45%；乙基己基甘油0.05%；汉生胶0.2%；甘油2%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%；去离子水41.66%；透明质酸钠0.04%；烟酰胺0.1%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼，其特征在于：所述一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母26%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼1%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石5%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石5%；硅酸铝钙钠5%；硫酸钡5%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.2%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.3%；氢化聚癸烯2%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯2%；苯氧乙醇0.45%；乙基己基甘油0.05%；汉生胶0.2%；甘油1%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%；去离子水45.78%；透明质酸钠0.01%；烟酰胺0.01%。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼，其特征在于：所述一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼按重量百分比包括以下组分：三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母25%；聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼4%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石1%；三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石8%；硅酸铝钙钠5%；硫酸钡5%；二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷0.3%；辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.4%；氢化聚癸烯1.3%；鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯2.3%；苯氧乙醇0.45%；乙基己基甘油0.05%；汉生胶0.2%；甘油1%；聚山梨醇酯-80，1%；去离子水44.96%；透明质酸钠0.02%；烟酰胺0.02%。
5.一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼的制造方法，该制造方法用于制造如权利要求1所述的一种烘焙浮雕保湿粉饼，其特征在于：该制造方法包括如下步骤：
a、先将三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母、聚二甲基硅氧烷处理氮化硼、三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理合成氟金云母/氧化锌/羟基磷灰石、三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理硅石、硅酸铝钙钠、硫酸钡投入3000rpm/min粉碎机中进行粉碎10s，制得基础粉相；
b、将二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、氢化聚癸烯、鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酯、苯氧乙醇、乙基己基甘油加热搅拌至80℃，制得油相；
c、先将汉生胶与甘油相互混合均匀，再加入聚山梨醇酯-80和水搅拌均匀，再加入透明质酸钠和烟酰胺，用搅拌机进行搅拌，使得各项搅拌均匀制得水胶，即胶相；
d、将油相与胶相预先混合搅拌均匀，而后加入基础粉相搅拌均匀，得到非牛顿流体的粉块；
e、将粉块按需求量切取，放入硅胶模套中，抹平粉块后放入-10摄氏度冷冻柜中冷冻45min成型；放入50摄氏度恒温箱中烘烤12h后取出，制得成品。
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