CN114209600A - Preparation method and application of powder - Google Patents

Preparation method and application of powder Download PDF

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CN114209600A
CN114209600A CN202111639636.7A CN202111639636A CN114209600A CN 114209600 A CN114209600 A CN 114209600A CN 202111639636 A CN202111639636 A CN 202111639636A CN 114209600 A CN114209600 A CN 114209600A
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powder
phase
nonionic surfactant
water
wax
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CN114209600B (en
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曾四立
程丽娟
徐金萍
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Shanghai Chuangyuan Cosmetics Co ltd
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Shanghai Chuangyuan Cosmetics Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87Polyurethanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/925Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/84Products or compounds obtained by lyophilisation, freeze-drying

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Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation method and application of powder, the preparation method comprises the steps of mixing oil and wax uniformly in a fluid state to obtain a premixed phase, adding the premixed phase into a water phase containing a nonionic surfactant, mixing uniformly to obtain an emulsified phase in a fluid state, adding a powder phase into the emulsified phase in the fluid state to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of less than 3500cps, injecting the material body D in the fluid state into a mold, and drying and molding to obtain the powder; the nonionic surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene ether nonionic surfactant, polyalcohol ester nonionic surfactant, amide nonionic surfactant or block polyether nonionic surfactant; the content of the grease in the material body D is 2.85-30% by weight. The application is to use the powder for eye shadow, powder cake, blush or high gloss. The powder of the invention has the advantages of improving the moist feeling of the product, preventing powder from flying, and the like, and particularly can make the applied powder brighter.

Description

Preparation method and application of powder
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, relates to a preparation method and application of powder, and particularly relates to a preparation method and application of powder for cosmetics.
Background
At present, common powder in the market, such as eye shadow, pressed powder, blush, highlight, eyebrow powder and the like, is divided from a forming method, and mainly comprises dry pressed powder, wet pressed powder and oil wax pouring filling.
Dry powder pressing is carried out, oil and wax are contained, powder blocks are pressed in a carrier disc and then assembled in a container, powder is easy to fly in products, powder scraps are easy to generate in the transportation and falling process, and the powder is high in dust in the production process and harmful to people and the environment;
wet pressed powder is oily and non-waxy, an organic solvent and an inorganic solvent are used in the production process, the organic solvent basically has certain harmfulness, such as isododecane and isopropanol, and is easy to cause harm to the environment and human bodies in the volatilization process, the inorganic solvent mainly adopts water at present, the water is removed in a volatilization mode, but the product is less in coloring, and meanwhile, the touch feeling is hard, and the experience feeling is not beautiful; the product is dried and not moist enough, powder is easy to fly, and the skin sticking performance is poor;
in the prior art, light, skin-adhering, refreshing and moisturizing foundation or blush cream is prepared, but the formula system usually adopts grease as volatile silicone oil and vegetable grease with refreshing skin feel, the moisture content is higher, generally between 50 and 70 percent, the powder raw materials are less, about 10 percent, the powder feel is lower, the persistence is lower, the product appearance is generally presented in a liquid cream shape, and the shape is single.
In order to overcome the defects, the development of the powder which is easy to color, difficult to fly powder and good in moistening feeling is urgently important.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a preparation method and application of powder, the powder of the invention supports a formula framework through wax, and high-content grease is added, so that the powder can play a good bonding role for microspherical and flaky functional powder or pearlescent pigment containing a large amount of colorant; and the high proportion of grease can improve the moist feeling of the product and simultaneously has the advantages of no powder flying and the like, and particularly can ensure that the applied powder is brighter.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following scheme:
a preparation method of powder comprises the steps of uniformly mixing oil and wax in a fluid state to obtain a premixed phase, adding the premixed phase into a water phase to be uniformly mixed to obtain an emulsified phase in a fluid state, adding a powder phase into the emulsified phase in the fluid state to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of less than 3500cps, injecting the material body D in the fluid state into a mold, and drying and molding to obtain the powder; the drying and forming is freezing sublimation; the specific process of freezing and sublimating comprises the following steps: placing the mold with the injected material body D into a freezer for freezing, and demolding after freezing and molding; then putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer; then sublimation drying is carried out under vacuum condition to obtain the product, namely powder (block instead of paste).
The nonionic surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene ether nonionic surfactant, polyalcohol ester nonionic surfactant, amide nonionic surfactant or block polyether nonionic surfactant;
the content of the grease in the material body D is 2.85-30% by weight.
As a preferred technical scheme:
in the above-described method for producing a powder, the nonionic surfactant may be one or more of polysorbate-80, polysorbate-20, steareth-2, steareth-21, methylglucose sesquistearate and C12-20 alkyl glucoside, and may be primary alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, secondary alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether, fatty acid polyoxyethylene ester, polyoxyethylene fatty amine compound, ethylene glycol alkenyl ester, sorbitol ester, alkylglycoside polyglycerin fatty acid ester, PEG (polyethylene glycol) -20 or methylglucose sesquistearate.
According to the preparation method of the powder, the powder comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15-90% of powder phase (preferably 45-80% of powder phase), 1-20% of wax (preferably 3-10% of wax), and 5-55% of oil and fat (preferably 5-45% of oil and fat).
In the above method for producing a powder, the fat or oil is one or more of liquid fats or oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, and ester oils.
The liquid oil and fat include avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, triglycerol or tricaprylin;
the higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
higher alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, monostearyl glyceryl ether, monopalmityl glyceryl ether, cholesterol, phytosterol or isostearyl alcohol, etc.;
ester oils include isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, ethylene glycol dicaprylate, diisostearyl malate, trimethylolpropane tricaprylate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, glyceryl tricaprylate or triisostearate, and the like.
In the preparation method of the powder, the wax is mainly selected from natural wax and synthetic wax.
The natural wax is petroleum wax, vegetable wax or animal wax. The petroleum wax is paraffin, microcrystalline wax or vaseline. The vegetable wax is rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cacao butter, cork fiber wax (birk fiber wax) or sugar cane wax. The animal wax is lanolin wax, lanolin derivative or beeswax.
Synthetic waxes are synthetic hydrocarbon waxes and modified waxes. The synthetic hydrocarbon wax is a polyethylene wax, a polypropylene wax or a Fischer-Tropsch wax. The modified wax is paraffin wax derivative, montan wax derivative or microcrystalline wax derivative.
In the preparation method of the powder, the powder phase is a mixture of the organic filler, the inorganic powder after the hydrophobic surface treatment and the toner after the hydrophobic surface treatment.
The inorganic powder is pearl, talc, kaolin, sericite, muscovite, synthetic mica, phlogopite, lepidolite (lepidolite), biotite, lepidolite (lithia mica), vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, diatomaceous earth, magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, silica, hydroxyapatite, zeolite, boron nitride, ceramic powder, or the like;
the organic filler is PMMA, nylon, polyurethane or HDI/trihydroxymethyl hexyl lactone cross-linked polymer and the like.
The organic filler mainly plays a role in regulating skin feel, and the product generally has an influence on the falling resistance of the product to a certain extent, but the influence is not obvious in the formula;
the toner or pearlescence after the hydrophobic surface treatment plays a role in toning in the formula;
the pearlescence is mica, borosilicate, synthetic fluorophlogopite, metal or metal oxide (such as copper, aluminum oxide).
The toner is a colorant commonly used in cosmetics; such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, red 6, red7, red30, red40 or cochineal, etc.
The common pearly-lustre and toner have poor anti-falling performance and are easy to damage in a conventional formula, but the anti-falling performance in a formula system is particularly excellent, and the effect is good. The invention adopts the oil-in-water type emulsified phase, and the untreated powder has higher surface activity due to active surface electrons and tends to gather in a water-oil interface, so that the powder cannot be well dispersed, therefore, the treated powder is preferred, and the surface activity can be reduced to prevent the powder from aggregating, aggregating high molecules, damaging an emulsified interface and the like.
The preparation method of the powder comprises the following specific steps:
(1) premixing: uniformly mixing oil and wax at the temperature of 40-95 ℃ to obtain a premixed phase at the temperature; the wax is solid at normal temperature and can be melted only under the heating condition;
(2) uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, polyol (serving as a humectant), an antioxidant, a chelating agent and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase with the same temperature, and uniformly mixing to obtain an emulsified phase at the temperature; the non-ionic surfactant selected by the invention causes the formed emulsified phase to be of an oil-in-water type;
(4) adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase in the step (3) to obtain a material body D at the temperature;
(5) injecting the material body D into a mold, and drying and molding to obtain the powder; in the process of drying and molding, since the emulsified phase of the present invention is of the oil-in-water type, the water component gradually volatilizes to form a porous structure, and if the emulsified phase is of the water-in-oil type, the dried powder is not smooth.
The reason for controlling the temperature is to make the material body D have a certain fluidity for molding.
In the above method for preparing a powder, the water-soluble polymer includes a natural water-soluble polymer, a semi-synthetic water-soluble polymer or a synthetic water-soluble polymer.
The natural water soluble polymer comprises guar gum, galactan, agar, starch, xanthan gum or dextran;
the semi-synthetic water soluble polymer includes cellulose polymer (such as methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose powder) or starch polymer (such as carboxymethyl starch or methyl hydroxypropyl starch powder);
the water-soluble polymer to be synthesized includes vinyl polymers (e.g., polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, or polyvinyl pyrrolidone), polyethylene polymers (e.g., polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer of polyethylene glycol 20000, 40000, or 600000), or acrylic polymers (e.g., sodium polyacrylate, or acrylic crosslinked resin).
The invention also provides an application of the powder, which is to apply the powder to color cosmetics, wherein the color cosmetics are eye shadow, pressed powder, blush or high gloss.
The principle of the invention is as follows:
according to the invention, high-content grease is added into the formula, and an oil-in-water type emulsification system is formed, so that the whole material has good fluidity, on one hand, the effect of high-efficiency mixing can be achieved, on the other hand, the viscosity of a material body injected into a mold is smaller than 3500cps, and the material body is easy to inject, and if the content of the grease and powder in the formula is low, namely the content of moisture is high, the shrinkage ratio of the material body in the drying process is serious, so that powder blocks collapse, the surface is uneven, and powder with a smooth surface cannot be formed.
The oil-in-water type emulsifying system and the material body formed by adding the hydrophobic powder with high content proportion are characterized in that the hydrophobic powder is not hydrophilic and presents hydrophobicity in a water phase, on one hand, the powder phase is more easily stabilized in an emulsion phase, the outer phase is not easy to cause partial thickening, on the other hand, ice is directly sublimated into a gaseous state under the condition of vacuum freeze drying, the ice is removed, the oil and the wax are remained in the powder phase, the oil and the wax are uniformly mixed and added into the material body, the oil and the wax are used as a binder in the process of drying the powder block, and the wax mainly plays a role in supporting a formula skeleton structure, so that the powder block is not easy to damage and deform. Because ice is directly sublimated into gaseous state, and the powder piece is under low temperature environment, and the molecule motion can be very slow, and the position of ice in the original powder piece can not lead to other molecule motions to fill into because of ice leaves, so the product inner structure will appear with porous form.
The powder has a porous structure which mainly takes wax as a supporting framework and grease and wax as a binder, so that the product has good toughness and low risk of damage in falling transportation; meanwhile, the grease content is high, so that the effect of sticking skin without flying powder can be achieved. Generally speaking, when the oil content is high, the adhesion is too strong, so that the material is not easy to take and the coloring is not good, but the porous structure of the freeze drying method of the invention has high oil content, but the adhesion is not very large, so that the material is easy to take, the coloring is easy, and the coloring is strong. The formula of the invention contains organic filler and silica (spherical powder), so the powder of the invention can also achieve the characteristic of good dipping property.
Advantageous effects
The powder of the invention supports the formula framework through wax, and is added with high-content grease, which can play a good role in bonding micro-spherical and flaky functional powder and pearlescent pigment containing a large amount of colorant; and the high proportion of grease can improve the moist feeling of the product and simultaneously has the advantages of no powder flying and the like, and particularly can ensure that the applied powder is brighter.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of CT of powder in example 2 tested by XTH-225.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The test method related by the invention is as follows:
(1) the powder body falling performance is used for judging the powder body cohesiveness, and the test process is as follows: after the prepared powder is assembled into a powder box (a cylindrical cavity is arranged in the powder box, the diameter of the cylinder is 3.5-5.0 cm, and the height of the cylinder is 0.3-1 cm), after 12 hours, the box is dropped onto a PVC plate from the height of 50cm, cracks are observed to be generated in the second time, and the average value of 5 times of tests is taken to evaluate the caking property;
(2) good degree of brush dipping: 24 female panelists were selected and evaluated on 4 grades (4: good, 3: good, 2: normal, 1, poor), and the average was evaluated as follows. Wherein ^ represents 3 or more, ^ represents more than 2 but less than 3, Δ represents more than 1 and less than 2, and ^ represents 1 or less;
(3) color development degree of the powder: 24 female panelists were selected and evaluated on 4 grades (4: good, 3: good, 2: normal, 1, poor), and the average was evaluated as follows. Wherein ^ represents 3 or more, ^ represents more than 2 but less than 3, Δ represents more than or less than 2, and ^ represents 1 or less;
(4) whether the powder is easy to fly is determined: 24 female judges are selected to be evaluated according to 4 grades (4: no flying powder, 3: slight flying powder, 2: obvious flying powder, 1, serious flying powder), and the evaluation is carried out according to the average value; wherein ^ represents 3 or more, ^ represents more than 2 but less than 3, Δ represents more than 1 and less than 2, and ^ represents 1 or less;
(5) and (3) viscosity testing: the viscosity of body D was measured using a BROOKFIELD DVI tester.
Examples 1 to 5
A preparation method of powder comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000051
Figure BDA0003443077620000061
according to the above stock preparation table, the powder of examples 1 to 5 was prepared according to the following steps:
(1) preparing a premixed phase: mixing oil and wax at 60 deg.C to obtain premixed phase;
(2) preparing an aqueous phase: uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant, a chelating agent and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) preparing an emulsified phase: adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2) at the temperature of 60 ℃ and uniformly mixing to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified phase;
(4) preparing a material body D: adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase prepared in the step (3) at the temperature of 60 ℃ to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of less than 3500 cps;
(5) preparing powder: injecting the material body D into a mold (the temperature of the material body D is kept at 60 ℃ in the whole process), putting the mold into a freezer for freezing after the material body D is injected, and demolding after the mold is frozen and formed; putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer, and then carrying out sublimation drying under a vacuum condition to obtain the powder; the powder is a block with a porous structure and wax as a supporting framework and grease and wax as a binder (the CT cross-sectional view of the powder prepared in example 2 is shown in figure 1); meanwhile, the prepared powder is subjected to drop resistance, dipping property, coloring property and flying powder property tests, and the data are shown in the following table:
example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5
Resistance to falling Number of times of falling 10 20 25 25 10
Dipping property Good degree of brush dipping
Coloring property Color development degree of product ×
Flying powder property Whether the product is flying powder or not
Examples 6 to 10
A preparation method of powder comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000071
according to the stock preparation table, the powder of the embodiment 6-10 is prepared according to the following steps:
(1) preparing a premixed phase: mixing oil and wax at 90 deg.C to obtain premixed phase;
(2) preparing an aqueous phase: uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant, a chelating agent and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) preparing an emulsified phase: adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2) at the temperature of 90 ℃ and uniformly mixing to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified phase;
(4) preparing a material body D: adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase prepared in the step (3) at the temperature of 90 ℃ to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of less than 3500 cps;
(5) preparing powder: injecting the material body D into a mold (the temperature of the material body D is kept at 90 ℃ in the whole process), putting the mold into a freezer for freezing after the material body D is injected, and demolding after the mold is frozen and formed; putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer, and then carrying out sublimation drying under a vacuum condition to obtain the powder; the powder is a block with a porous structure, wherein wax is used as a supporting framework, and grease and wax are used as binders; meanwhile, the prepared powder is subjected to drop resistance, dipping property, coloring property and flying powder property tests, and the data are shown in the following table:
example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10
Resistance to falling Number of times of falling 20 10 30 30 35
Dipping property Good degree of brush dipping ×
Coloring property Color development degree of product ×
Flying powder property Whether the product is flying powder or not
Comparative example 1
A preparation method of powder comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000081
the powder was prepared according to the above stock preparation table, following the procedure in example 6: meanwhile, the prepared powder is subjected to drop resistance, dipping property, coloring property and flying powder property tests, and the data are shown in the following table:
Figure BDA0003443077620000082
Figure BDA0003443077620000091
from the above data, it can be seen that the drop resistance in comparative example 1 is significantly less than that of example 1, because no wax is added in comparative example 1, which mainly acts as a skeletal support in the formulation, the wax is absent, the product is lacking in toughness and rigidity, and the product drop resistance is poor; the wax also plays a certain role in binding, so that the relative binder amount is reduced without adding the wax, and the product is looser and is easy to fly.
Example 11
A preparation method of an eye shadow comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000092
according to the stock preparation table, the eye shadow is prepared according to the following steps:
(1) preparing a premixed phase: mixing oil and wax at 50 deg.C to obtain premixed phase;
(2) preparing an aqueous phase: uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) preparing an emulsified phase: adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2) at the temperature of 50 ℃ and uniformly mixing to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified phase;
(4) preparing a material body D: adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase prepared in the step (3) at the temperature of 50 ℃ to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of 1000 cps;
(5) preparing an eye shadow: injecting the material body D into a mold (the temperature of the material body D is kept at 50 ℃ in the whole process), putting the mold into a freezer for freezing after the material body D is injected, and demolding after the mold is frozen and formed; putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer, and then carrying out sublimation drying under the vacuum condition to obtain the eye shadow; the eye shadow is a porous block with wax as a support skeleton and grease and wax as a binder.
Example 12
A preparation method of blush comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000101
according to the above stock preparation table, blush was prepared as follows:
(1) preparing a premixed phase: uniformly mixing oil and wax at the temperature of 70 ℃ to obtain a premixed phase;
(2) preparing an aqueous phase: uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) preparing an emulsified phase: adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2) at the temperature of 70 ℃ and uniformly mixing to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified phase;
(4) preparing a material body D: adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase prepared in the step (3) at the temperature of 70 ℃ to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of 2000 cps;
(5) preparing blush: injecting the material body D into a mold (the temperature of the material body D is kept at 70 ℃ in the whole process), putting the mold into a freezer for freezing after the material body D is injected, and demolding after the mold is frozen and formed; putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer, and then carrying out sublimation drying under a vacuum condition to obtain the blush; the blush is a porous structure block with wax as a supporting framework and grease and wax as a binder.
Example 13
A preparation method of pressed powder comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000111
preparing the pressed powder according to the stock preparation table and the following steps:
(1) preparing a premixed phase: uniformly mixing the grease and the wax at the temperature of 40 ℃ to obtain a premixed phase;
(2) preparing an aqueous phase: uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) preparing an emulsified phase: adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2) at the temperature of 40 ℃ and uniformly mixing to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified phase;
(4) preparing a material body D: adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase prepared in the step (3) at the temperature of 40 ℃ to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of 3000 cps;
(5) preparing a pressed powder: injecting the material body D into a mold (the temperature of the material body D is kept at 40 ℃ in the whole process), putting the mold into a freezer for freezing after the material body D is injected, and demolding after the mold is frozen and formed; putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer, and then carrying out sublimation drying under the vacuum condition to obtain the pressed powder; the pressed powder is a block with a porous structure and wax as a supporting framework and grease and wax as a binder.
Example 14
A preparation method of highlight comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000121
Figure BDA0003443077620000131
according to the stock preparation table, the highlight is prepared according to the following steps:
(1) preparing a premixed phase: uniformly mixing the grease and the wax at the temperature of 65 ℃ to obtain a premixed phase;
(2) preparing an aqueous phase: uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) preparing an emulsified phase: adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2) at the temperature of 65 ℃ and uniformly mixing to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified phase;
(4) preparing a material body D: adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase prepared in the step (3) at the temperature of 65 ℃ to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of 1600 cps;
(5) preparing highlight: injecting the material body D into a mold (the temperature of the material body D is kept at 65 ℃ in the whole process), putting the mold into a freezer for freezing after the material body D is injected, and demolding after the mold is frozen and formed; putting the demoulded product into a freeze dryer, and then carrying out sublimation drying under the vacuum condition to obtain the high light; the high gloss is a porous structure block with wax as a supporting framework and grease and wax as a binder.
Comparative example 2
A preparation method of highlight comprises the following specific steps:
preparing materials:
Figure BDA0003443077620000132
Figure BDA0003443077620000141
according to the above stock preparation table, the highlight was prepared in the same manner as in example 14, however, the viscosity of the obtained material D was 3200cps, the material had a tendency to break emulsion, and separation of powder, water and oil was observed, mainly because a low-temperature drying process was used, the external phase was ice (water turned into ice at low temperature), and ice could be sublimated directly; however, if the external phase is an oil phase, ice sublimes from the powder cake and must pass through the external phase oil phase, so that the oil phase explodes under the pressure of the ice, and the appearance of the product becomes uneven and rough.

Claims (9)

1. A preparation method of powder is characterized by comprising the following steps: firstly, uniformly mixing oil and wax in a fluid state to obtain a premixed phase, adding the premixed phase into a water phase containing a nonionic surfactant, uniformly mixing to obtain an emulsified phase in a fluid state, then adding a powder phase into the emulsified phase in the fluid state to obtain a material body D with the viscosity of less than 3500cps, injecting the material body D in the fluid state into a mold, and drying and molding to obtain the powder; the drying and forming is freezing sublimation;
the nonionic surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene ether nonionic surfactant, polyalcohol ester nonionic surfactant, amide nonionic surfactant or block polyether nonionic surfactant;
the content of the grease in the material body D is 2.85-30% by weight.
2. A method for producing a powder as claimed in claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is one or more of polysorbate 80, polysorbate 20, steareth 2, steareth 21, methylgluco-sesquistearate and C12-20 alkyl glucoside.
3. The method for preparing powder according to claim 1, wherein the powder comprises the following main components in percentage by weight: 15-90% of powder phase, 1-20% of wax and 5-55% of grease.
4. A method for producing a powder according to claim 1, wherein the fat or oil is one or more of liquid fats or oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols and ester oils.
5. A method of preparing a powder as claimed in claim 1, wherein the wax is selected from natural and synthetic waxes.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein the powder phase is a mixture of an organic filler, an inorganic powder after hydrophobic surface treatment, and a toner after hydrophobic surface treatment.
7. The method for preparing powder according to claim 1, comprising the following steps:
(1) premixing: uniformly mixing oil and wax at the temperature of 40-95 ℃ to obtain a premixed phase at the temperature;
(2) uniformly mixing a nonionic surfactant, a water-soluble polymer, a preservative, polyol, an antioxidant, a chelating agent and water to obtain a water phase;
(3) adding the premixed phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase with the same temperature, and uniformly mixing to obtain an emulsified phase at the temperature;
(4) adding the powder phase into the emulsified phase in the step (3) to obtain a material body D at the temperature;
(5) and injecting the material body D into a mold, and drying and molding to obtain the powder.
8. The method according to claim 7, wherein the water-soluble polymer comprises a natural water-soluble polymer, a semi-synthetic water-soluble polymer, or a synthetic water-soluble polymer.
9. The application of the powder is characterized in that: use of the powder according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in a color cosmetic, the color cosmetic being an eye shadow, a pressed powder, a blush, or a highlight.
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JPS5551011A (en) * 1978-10-06 1980-04-14 Kanebo Ltd Oily powder cosmetic for point making up
JPH0429918A (en) * 1990-05-24 1992-01-31 Nonogawa Shoji Kk Rod-shaped solid cosmetic compounded with freezedried powder
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CN111514065A (en) * 2020-05-13 2020-08-11 丽鑫生技化妆品(上海)有限公司 Liquid baking powder blush and preparation method thereof
CN113244135A (en) * 2021-05-28 2021-08-13 美尚(广州)化妆品股份有限公司 Oil wax type makeup cosmetic powder and preparation method thereof

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GB885788A (en) * 1959-06-09 1961-12-28 Yugen Kaisha Suzuki Shinobu So An emulsifiable, dry face powder composition
JPS5551011A (en) * 1978-10-06 1980-04-14 Kanebo Ltd Oily powder cosmetic for point making up
JPH0429918A (en) * 1990-05-24 1992-01-31 Nonogawa Shoji Kk Rod-shaped solid cosmetic compounded with freezedried powder
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