CN113827523B - Rose composition and application thereof - Google Patents
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- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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Abstract
The application discloses a rose composition, which is prepared from rose ferment and plant extract according to the following ratio of 1: the rose ferment is obtained by fermenting and extracting rose raw materials by ganoderma lucidum strain (Latin name Ganodermanucifum) according to the mass ratio of 0.05-2. The rose ferment is mixed with other commercially available sandalwood hydrolat, sandalwood essential oil, jasmine essential oil and the like to obtain a rose composition, and the rose composition has synergistic effect in the aspects of anti-aging and whitening activity when applied to cosmetics.
Description
Technical Field
The application belongs to the technical field of fermentation and functional cosmetics, and particularly relates to a rose composition and application thereof.
Background
As medicinal and edible traditional Chinese medicinal materials, fresh rose or dried flower tea has the unique functions of clearing heat and detoxicating, relaxing bowel, regulating menstruation and promoting blood circulation, promoting metabolism and the like, and the rose is also applied to clinical medicines and partial health products. The black red rose (Rose chinensis Jacq 'Crimsin glass' H.T.) belongs to fallen leaf shrubs of Rosa (Rosa) of Rosaceae (Rosaceae), the original place is China, the cultivation history is long, and the black red rose has the functions of eating and medicinal use besides ornamental and cultural values. The black rose extract has the main functions of resisting oxidation, whitening and removing freckles and promoting skin permeation in cosmetics, can eliminate free radicals, has strong penetrability and helps other nutrient components to be absorbed by skin; has certain tyrosinase inhibiting effect, and can assist in whitening. Because of its faint scent, it is commonly used in cosmetics for preparing flavors and fragrances.
The active substances of flos Rosae Rugosae are various, and contain vitamins, proteins, amino acids, volatile oil, pigment, polyphenols, flavone and microelements. At present, the extraction of the active ingredients in the roses mainly adopts the physical and chemical extraction means such as an alcohol reflux extraction technology, an ultrasonic extraction technology, a desorption-thermal extraction two-step method and the like, and the extraction report of the active ingredients by utilizing a microbial fermentation technology is less.
The rose petals contain cellulose, pectin and other components, the existing common lactobacillus, saccharomycete and acetic acid bacteria rarely produce cellulase and pectase, the pectase and the cellulase which are 0.01-0.03% are required to be crushed before fermentation, the purity of the commercialized enzyme can not reach 100%, impurities can be doped into a fermentation system, the requirements on the purity of raw materials of cosmetics are not facilitated, and the conventional lactobacillus, saccharomycete and acetic acid bacteria are difficult to perfectly compound with the common plant extract, so that the rose petals can be used as whitening components in cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
The application aims to solve the technical problem of lack of a rose composition capable of being compounded with plant extracts, overcome the defects and shortcomings in the background art, and provide a rose composition and application thereof.
In order to solve the technical problems, the technical scheme provided by the application is as follows:
a rose composition, comprising rose fermentate and plant extract according to 1: the rose fermented product is obtained by compounding 0.05-2 of mass ratio, and is obtained by fermenting and extracting rose raw materials through ganoderma lucidum strain (Latin name Ganoderma lucidum).
The rose composition is prepared by fermenting rose raw materials through lucid ganoderma strains (Latin name Ganoderma lucidum) and extracting rose fermentation products obtained by extraction, and is mixed with other commercially available essential oils and hydrolat, and has synergistic effects in the aspects of anti-aging and whitening activities.
Preferably, the plant extract comprises essential oil and/or hydrosol, wherein the essential oil comprises plant alcohol substances, and the hydrosol is distilled stock solution separated in the process of extracting the essential oil.
Preferably, the essential oil, the hydrolat and the plant flower, stem and leaf aqueous extract comprise one or more of sandalwood hydrolat, sandalwood essential oil, jasmine hydrolat, rose essential oil and rose hydrolat.
The rose ferment is compounded with rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil and sandalwood essential oil, wherein the compounding mass ratio is as follows: rose ferment: rose essential oil: jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:0.05-0.1:0.05-0.1:0.05-0.1; more preferably, the rose ferment: rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:0.05:0.05:0.05.
preferably, the ganoderma lucidum strain is derived from China general microbiological culture collection center, and the collection number is CGMCC 5.1817.
Preferably, the preparation method of the rose ferment comprises the following steps:
(1) Activating Ganoderma lucidum strain, china general microbiological culture Collection center (CGMCC) 5.1817;
(2) Fermentation culture: sterilizing the dried flos Rosae Rugosae, inoculating activated Ganoderma strain, and fermenting for 7-14 days;
(3) Extracting: and (3) extracting the product obtained in the step (2) according to the mass ratio of 1:20-40 to obtain the rose fermented product.
According to the application, the selected ganoderma lucidum strain and the rose are fermented and cultured, polyphenol and flavone in the rose, polysaccharide and triterpene in the ganoderma lucidum have good skin care effect, and the fermentation and culture interact to obtain the rose fermentation product DPPH free radical clearance (200 times of dilution), superoxide anion clearance, hydroxyl free radical clearance, ABTS free radical clearance (200 times of dilution), tyrosinase activity inhibition rate and total reducing power which are all high, so that the rose fermentation product DPPH free radical clearance, superoxide anion clearance, hydroxyl free radical clearance, ABTS free radical clearance, tyrosinase activity inhibition rate and total reducing power are all high, and the rose fermentation product DPPH free radical clearance, superoxide dismutase and superoxide dismutase can be used as anti-aging and whitening active ingredients to play excellent effects.
Preferably, the specific method for activating the ganoderma lucidum strain in the step (1) comprises the following steps: culturing Ganoderma strain in MEA at 25-28deg.C for 5-7 days with culture medium composition preferably including malt extract 1.2-2%, agar 1-2% and glucose 1-2%.
The MEA culture medium is suitable for growth of the ganoderma lucidum strain, the preferable components of the culture medium can culture fungi under the optimal conditions, and the cultured ganoderma lucidum strain is suitable for fermentation of rose.
Preferably, the dried rose flowers in step (2) are dried black rose flowers.
The ganoderma lucidum strain belongs to white rot fungi, and secreted enzymes determine that the ganoderma lucidum strain can grow on flowers, so that the ganoderma lucidum strain is suitable for fermenting dry flowers of black red roses.
Preferably, the temperature of the sterilization treatment in the step (2) is 115-121 ℃ and the time is 4-6h; the inoculation amount of the ganoderma lucidum strain is 5-10% of the mass of the dried rose flowers; the fermentation culture temperature is 25-28 ℃; the extraction in the step (3) is ethanol extraction, the ethanol concentration is 60-90%, the extraction temperature is 50-70 ℃, and the extraction time is 3-5h.
Under the same technical conception, the application also provides application of the rose composition, and the rose composition is applied as an active ingredient of cosmetics.
Compared with the prior art, the application has the beneficial effects that:
(1) Screening strains suitable for rose fermentation, wherein the obtained rose fermentation product has better anti-aging and whitening activities;
(2) The rose ferment is mixed with other commercially available sandalwood hydrolat, sandalwood essential oil, jasmine essential oil and the like to obtain a rose composition, and the rose composition has synergistic effect in the aspects of anti-aging and whitening activity when applied to cosmetics.
Detailed Description
The present application will be described more fully hereinafter with reference to the preferred embodiments for the purpose of facilitating understanding of the present application, but the scope of the present application is not limited to the following specific embodiments.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used hereinafter have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the scope of the present application.
Unless otherwise specifically indicated, various raw materials, reagents, instruments, equipment and the like used in the present application are commercially available or can be prepared by existing methods, and the strains selected in the examples and comparative examples of the present application are commercially available biological materials.
Example 1:
the present example selects black red rose and a rose composition is prepared by the following method:
1. activation of ganoderma lucidum strain
Ganoderma lucidum strain (CGMCC 5.1817) with Latin name Ganoderma lucidum can be purchased from China general microbiological culture Collection center (CGMCC 5.1817); culturing Ganoderma strain in MEA (malt extract 1.2%, agar 2%, and glucose 1%) medium at 28deg.C for 7 days for activating strain;
2. fermentation of black red rose ferment:
6g of dry black rose flowers are taken and placed in a 9cm plate, and after sterilization for 4 hours at 121 ℃, the activated ganoderma lucidum is inoculated, the inoculation amount is 5 percent, and the culture is carried out for 7 to 14 days at 28 ℃;
3. alcohol extraction of black rose ferment:
fermented black red rose is prepared according to the following formula 1: extracting with ethanol at 20 mass ratio, ethanol concentration of 60%, extraction temperature of 70 deg.C, and extraction time of 3 hr.
After the preparation is completed, the black rose fermented product of the embodiment is obtained; mixing the ink red rose fermented product with commercially available sandalwood hydrolat, sandalwood essential oil, jasmine hydrolat, rose essential oil and rose hydrolat to obtain the ink red rose composition, wherein the commercially available sandalwood hydrolat and sandalwood essential oil are all from Oshadhi, and the essential oil alcohol content is obtained by extraction through the following method.
Extraction of plant essential oil: the experiment adopts a steam distillation method to extract part of plant essential oil selected in the embodiment. Pulverizing the Chinese medicinal decoction pieces, sieving with 80 mesh sieve, soaking for 2 hr, adding heating and distilling at a feed-liquid ratio of 1:20 for 4 hr to obtain distillate, adding appropriate amount of NaCl, and separating water layer from oil layer. Separating oil layer, adding a small amount of anhydrous sodium sulfate, drying, and filtering to obtain plant essential oil.
The following contents are mass-to-volume ratios (g content per 100 ml)
Rose essential oil: the citronellol content is 20-34%; nerol content 5-12%, geraniol content 15-22%;
sandalwood essential oil: 20-30.2% of Z-alpha-santalol, 5-12.1% of trans-alpha-bergamotol, 12-18.9% of surface-beta-santalol and 15-28.3% of Z-beta-santalol;
jasmine essential oil: 15-33.5% of linalool, 7.5-15.5% of cis-3-hexenyl acetate, 3.8-7.6% of juniper alcohol and 2-5.2% of nerol;
the embodiment can be compounded by using the water extracts of the flowers, the stems and the leaves of the plants and the black rose composition, and the following preparation method of the water extracts of the flowers, the stems and the leaves of the plants is as follows:
the preparation method of the jasmine flower water extract comprises the following steps: adding 20 ml of water into 1g of jasmine flower, extracting at 90 ℃ for 3 hours, centrifuging at 9000 revolutions, and taking a supernatant;
the preparation method of the sandalwood perfume extract comprises the following steps: 1g of sandalwood was extracted with 20 ml of water at 90℃for 3 hours, and the supernatant was obtained after 9000 revolutions centrifugation.
The ink red rose composition of the embodiment adopts the ink red rose ferment which is mixed with the commercial essential oil and the hydrosol for performance test, and the mixing proportion is respectively as follows:
(1) black rose ferment: sandalwood hydrosol=1:1;
(2) black rose ferment: jasmine hydrolat=1:1;
(3) black rose ferment: jasmine pure dew: rose essential oil = 1:1:0.05;
(4) black rose ferment: jasmine pure dew: rose essential oil jasmine essential oil = 1:1:0.05:0.05;
(5) black rose ferment: jasmine pure dew: rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:1:0.05:0.05:0.05;
(6) black rose ferment: rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:0.05:0.05:0.05.
comparative example 1:
the comparative example adopts lactobacillus and saccharomycete to ferment the black rose, and the specific preparation method is as follows:
the rose composition was prepared using the following procedure:
1. fermentation strain activation
Yeast: the preservation number is CCTCC No: saccharomyces cerevisiae ZLG-6 of M20191046;
lactic acid bacteria: lactobacillus plantarum with a preservation number of CCTCC No: lactobacillus plantarum Picp-2 of M20191045;
activating saccharomycetes: inoculating the strain into YPD culture medium, culturing at 30deg.C for 36-48 hr, and continuously passaging for 3 times to fully activate the strain to a viable count of 1.0X107 CFU/mL;
lactic acid bacteria activation: inoculating the strain into MRS culture medium, culturing at 35 deg.C for 24 hr, and continuously passaging for 3 times to activate the strain to a viable count of 1.0X108 CFU/mL or more.
2. Fermentation of black red rose ferment:
crude enzyme liquid (pectinase and cellulase 1:1): dry ink red rose powder = 20:1 ratio, pectase enzyme activity: 2500U/mL, cellulase enzyme activity: extracting at 50deg.C for 3 hr at 3000U/mL, centrifuging at 9000r/min for 15min to obtain black rose zymolyte, and collecting supernatant for index detection.
Subpackaging the black rose zymolyte in a 250mL blue-cap reagent bottle (200 mL/bottle), sterilizing at 115 ℃ for 30min, inoculating activated lactobacillus strain, culturing at 37 ℃ for 7 days, wherein the inoculation amount is 5% of the volume of the dry rose flowers; then inoculating saccharomycete according to the proportion of 1% of the volume of the dried rose flowers, fermenting for 7 days, and centrifuging for 15min at 9000r/min to obtain the rose fermentation product for index detection.
3. Alcohol extraction of black rose ferment:
fermented black red rose is prepared according to the following formula 1: extracting with ethanol at 20 mass ratio, ethanol concentration of 60%, extraction temperature of 70 deg.C, and extraction time of 3 hr.
After the preparation was completed, the black rose fermented product of this comparative example was obtained.
The black rose fermented product obtained in the comparative example 1 is compounded with commercially available essential oil and pure dew according to the following compounding proportion:
(7) black rose ferment: jasmine pure dew: rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:1:0.05:0.05:0.05.
comparative example 2:
the comparative example adopts Aspergillus oryzae strain to ferment black red rose, and the specific preparation method is as follows:
the rose composition was prepared using the following procedure:
1. fermentation strain activation
Aspergillus oryzae strain is obtained from China general microbiological culture collection center (CGMCC 3.13905), and Aspergillus oryzae spore is inoculated into liquid culture medium (glucose 2%, peptone 1%, KH2PO40.1%, mgSO40.05% and NaCl 0.05%) at 28deg.C for 7 days for strain activation.
2. Fermentation of black red rose ferment:
6g of dry black rose flowers are taken and placed in a 9cm plate, and after sterilization for 4 hours at 121 ℃, the activated aspergillus oryzae is inoculated, the inoculation amount is 10ml, and the culture is carried out for 7-14 days at 28 ℃;
3. alcohol extraction of black rose ferment:
fermented black red rose is prepared according to the following formula 1: extracting with ethanol at a mass ratio of 20, wherein the ethanol concentration is 60%, the extraction temperature is 70 ℃, and the extraction time is 3h.
After the preparation was completed, the black rose fermented product of this comparative example was obtained.
The black rose fermented product obtained in the comparative example 2 is compounded with commercially available essential oil and pure dew according to the following compounding proportion:
(8) black rose ferment: jasmine pure dew: rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:1:0.05:0.05:0.05. the black rose fermented product and the compound thereof obtained in the above examples and comparative examples were detected by the following methods:
(1) Measurement of DPPH radical scavenging ability:
the experimental group was added with 1ml of the sample solution+1 ml of DPPH at 0.2 mmol/L. Control group was added with 1ml absolute ethanol+1 ml stock solution. The blank was added with 1ml of absolute ethanol+1 ml of DPPH at 0.2mmol/L, and the mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature (25 ℃) for 30 minutes. At 517nm, 300ul of the sample was collected, and the absorbance of the test group was measured and designated A i The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the The absorbance of the control group was measured and designated A j The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the The blank group is marked as A0; each sample was measured 3 times in parallel.
The calculation formula is as follows: DPPH clearance (%) = [1- (a) i -A j )/A 0 ]×100％
(2) Superoxide anion radical scavenging ability assay:
adding 5.7mL of Tris-HCl buffer solution (50 mmol/L, pH=8.2) into a 10mL test tube, mixing 0.2mL of sample, placing in a 25 ℃ incubator, taking out after 10min, adding 0.1mL (10 mmol/L) of pyrogallol solution (preheated), rapidly mixing uniformly, measuring the increase value (Aj) of absorbance within 1min at 320nm wavelength by a multifunctional enzyme-labeling instrument, calculating the increase value of absorbance per 1min within the linear range, taking the reagent, replacing the sample with equal volume of water, and measuring the increase value (A) of absorbance within 1min at 320nm wavelength i )。
The calculation formula is as follows: superoxide anion radical ion radical clearance (%) = (a) i -A j )/A i ×100％
(3) Determination of the scavenging ability of hydroxyl radicals (. OH):
hydroxyl radical (. OH) scavenging testMethod referring to Fenton reaction method, ferrous sulfate solution (6 mmol/L), hydrogen peroxide solution (6 mmol/L) and 2mL of each sample are sequentially added into a test tube, and then left standing for 10min, 2mL of salicylic acid solution (6 mmol/L) is added, and after standing for 30min, absorbance A is measured at 510nm 0 The same treatment as that of distilled water was used instead of the sample solution to determine the absorbance A x 。
The calculation formula is as follows: hydroxyl radical (·oh) clearance (%) = (1-a) 0 /A x )×100％
(4) Determination of ABTS clearance:
0.2mL 7.4 mmoL/LABSS and 0.2mL 2.6mmoL/L K 2 S 2 O 8 Mixing, reacting for 12h at room temperature in dark place, and diluting with 95% ethanol (pH=7.4 phosphate buffer solution, 95% ethanol or methanol) 40-50 times after the reaction, so that the absorption value of the mixed solution is 0.68-0.72 (working solution) under 734nm luminosity.
Diluting the fermentation samples with different treatments, respectively sucking 0.2mL, adding 0.8mL of diluted working solution, mixing uniformly, standing for reaction for 6min, and rapidly measuring absorbance A at 734nm wavelength 0 . The absorbance A was measured by the same treatment as that using 95% ethanol instead of the sample solution x . Each sample was measured 3 times in parallel.
The calculation formula is as follows: ABTS radical clearance (%) =1-a 0 /A x ×100％
(5) Tyrosinase activity inhibition rate
The reaction solutions of tyrosinase, PBS and samples are accurately sucked by a micropipette according to the volumes of the table, respectively, are placed in 4 10ml PE pipes (each sample needs an experiment group 1 and an experiment group 2, a comparison group can form comparison with a plurality of experiment groups), are uniformly mixed, are subjected to a 37-constant-temperature water bath for 10min, then 1ml of L-tyrosine is added into all four groups, are reacted for 10min at 37 ℃, and are rapidly placed in ice water for cooling. The absorbance was measured at 475nm using a microplate reader.
The calculation formula is as follows: tyrosinase activity inhibition ratio = 1- (AT) 4 -AT 3 )/(AT 2 -AT 1 )×100％
AT 1 Absorbance measured at 475m for control 1;
AT 2 absorbance measured at 45m for control group 2;
AT 3 absorbance measured at 475m for experimental set 1;
AT 4 absorbance measured at 475m for experimental group 2;
(6) Total reducing force detection
Transferring 1ml of sample into a 10ml EP tube, immediately and rapidly adding 2.5ml (0.2 ml/L) of PBS solution and 2.5ml of 1% potassium ferricyanide solution, uniformly mixing, preserving heat for 20min in a water bath kettle at 50 ℃, taking out, adding 2.5ml of 10% trichloroacetic acid solution, adding trichloroacetic acid, centrifuging for 10min at 3500r/min at room temperature if precipitation is generated, sucking 2.5ml of supernatant, and adding 2.5ml of distilled water; if no precipitate is formed after the addition of trichloroacetic acid, 2.5ml of distilled water is added after sucking up 2.5ml of the solution. 0.5ml of 0.1% ferric trichloride solution was added thereto, and the mixture was uniformly mixed and reacted for 10 minutes. The control group uses distilled water with equal amount to replace the sample liquid, and other operations are unchanged. As a result, absorbance was measured at 700nm, and the absorbance of the experimental group and the control group was proportional to the reducing power.
The experimental results are shown in table 1:
TABLE 1
As shown in Table 1, the application adopts the glossy ganoderma activated black rose composition to test each performance better after being compounded with the commercial essential oil and the hydrosol of the same components, and the black rose composition can play a synergistic effect.
Claims (3)
1. A rose composition, comprising rose fermentate and plant extract according to 1: the rose fermentation product is obtained by fermenting and extracting black red rose raw materials through ganoderma lucidum strains (Latin name Ganoderma lucidum) in a mass ratio of 0.05-2; the plant extract comprises essential oil and/or hydrolat, wherein the essential oil comprises one or more of sandalwood essential oil, jasmine essential oil and rose essential oil; the pure dew comprises one or more of sandalwood pure dew, jasmine pure dew and rose pure dew; the ganoderma lucidum strain is derived from China general microbiological culture collection center, and the collection number is CGMCC 5.1817;
the preparation method of the rose fermented product comprises the following steps:
(1) Culturing Ganoderma strain in MEA culture medium at 25-28deg.C for 5-7 days for strain activation, wherein the Ganoderma strain is from China general microbiological culture collection center (CGMCC) 5.1817;
(2) Fermentation culture: sterilizing dry flos Rosae Rugosae at 115-121deg.C for 4-6 hr; inoculating activated ganoderma lucidum strain, wherein the inoculation amount of the ganoderma lucidum strain is 5-10% of the mass of rose dry flowers; fermenting and culturing for 7-14 days; the fermentation culture temperature is 25-28 ℃;
(3) Extracting: extracting the product obtained in the step (2) according to the mass ratio of 1:20-40, wherein the extraction is ethanol extraction, the ethanol concentration is 60-90%, the extraction temperature is 50-70 ℃, and the extraction time is 3-5h, so as to obtain the rose fermented product.
2. The rose composition according to claim 1, wherein the rose fermented product is compounded with rose essential oil, jasmine essential oil and sandalwood essential oil in a mass ratio of specifically: rose essential oil: jasmine essential oil: sandalwood essential oil = 1:0.05-0.1:0.05-0.1:0.05-0.1.
3. Use of a rose composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 as an active ingredient in a cosmetic product.
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