CN113787792A - 一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺 - Google Patents

一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺 Download PDF

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Publication number
CN113787792A
CN113787792A CN202111151828.3A CN202111151828A CN113787792A CN 113787792 A CN113787792 A CN 113787792A CN 202111151828 A CN202111151828 A CN 202111151828A CN 113787792 A CN113787792 A CN 113787792A
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China
Prior art keywords
layer
warm
fabric
unidirectional moisture
keeping
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CN202111151828.3A
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English (en)
Inventor
吴宁西
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Shan Dao Technology Development Guangdong Co ltd
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Single Channel Technology Development Guangzhou Co ltd
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Application filed by Single Channel Technology Development Guangzhou Co ltd filed Critical Single Channel Technology Development Guangzhou Co ltd
Priority to CN202111151828.3A priority Critical patent/CN113787792A/zh
Publication of CN113787792A publication Critical patent/CN113787792A/zh
Priority to US17/883,786 priority patent/US11999154B2/en
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Abstract

一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，所述保暖服装由单向导湿面料制成，所述单向导湿面料包括表面层、保暖层和里衬层或包括表面层、第一保暖层、中间夹层、第二保暖层和里衬层；所述服装的躯干部分用整块80g/M2‑160g/M2夹棉作为保暖层，与单向导湿抗静电面料的里衬层缝合，采用等间面线车缝合里衬层和作为保暖填充块料的保暖层，保暖服装的袖子部分同躯干部分做法，正面口袋袖袋不需要填保暖层。本技术方案解决了传统保暖棉服和羽绒服在出汗后排汗湿不畅导致的失温问题，同时解决传统保暖棉服和羽绒服为了透气开腋下拉链带来的加工复杂和难的问题，解决传统保暖棉服和羽绒服易产生静电伤害和机洗容易因为不透气导致气压炸洗衣机的问题。

Description

一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织品加工技术领域，具体地说涉及一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺。
背景技术
在日常生活或户外运动时，身体排泄的汗水会被布料吸收，普通布料制成的服饰吸收汗水后，植物纤维会膨胀而堵塞布料通孔，会使汗水与布料粘贴在人体皮肤上，汗水无法迅速排出蒸发。
织物单向导湿是指水分或汗液从织物内层流动到织物外层，并在外层蒸发扩散，同时外层的水分或汗液难以反渗到内层。织物单向导湿的机理即为压力差造成的毛细效应，在毛细效应附加压力差的作用下，织物中的液态水分自动地从内层扩散到外层。
目前实现织物单向导湿的方式理论上可以从两个方面着手：一是增强织物表面的扩散速度，增大汗液或水分的蒸发面积；二是增大织物的毛细效应，即通过毛细管通道的增加，使毛细效应增强。如此可减少织物与人体皮肤的黏着感，提高舒适度。实际操作中，以拉链等方式，为衣物提供一些人工控制的窗口，以达到散热和排湿的目的，也是较常用的手段。
现有技术中，公告号CN211868813U发明名称一种单向导湿布料的实用新型专利申请，公开的所述单向导湿布料，从内至外依次包括内衬层、中间层和外层，所述内衬层是由改性导湿纱线纺织而成，所述中间层是由复合纱线采用斜纹组织方式纺织而成，所述外层是由阻燃纱线采用平纹组织方式纺织而成，且阻燃纱线是由芳酰胺纤维加捻而成。该技术方案中，所述单向导湿布料具有三层结构，为达到阻燃效果，还使用了阻燃纱线。
公开号CN113322559A发明名称具有吸湿快干单向导湿功能的针织布料制备方法的发明专利申请，具体公开了具有吸湿快干单向导湿功能的针织布料制备方法。包括以下步骤：S1、将棉纤维除杂后，浸泡在清水剂中亲水处理，将处理后的棉纤维取出烘干后纺织，得到亲水棉纱；S2、将棉纤维除杂后，浸泡在疏水剂中疏水处理，将处理后的棉纤维去除烘干后纺织，得到疏水棉纱；将亲水棉纱和水溶性纤维混纺后，得到混合棉纱，且所述清水棉纱与水溶性纤维的混纺比例为1：0.3-0.4；S3、将混合棉纱和疏水棉纱1：1混合纺织，得到混合面料；将亲水棉纱纺织得到亲水布料，且亲水布料与混合面料相缝合得到导湿布料；S4，将导湿布料置于清洗槽中，搅拌清洗得到成品布料。本申请制备的布料可用于制备服装，其具有单向透湿性能。该技术方案中使用亲水布料与混合面料相缝合，得到导湿布料；而混合面料是混合棉纱和疏水棉纱混合纺织得到的。
现有技术中，另一种方式，是选用主要(60％--100％)成份为涤纶(英文Polyester，即聚酯纤维)材质的布料，然后在后整理阶段通过液体助剂涂覆在布表面，少份量渗透到布的表面，从而达到单向导湿的效果。这种方式是通过助剂的涂覆、涂层而使布具有导湿的效果，此功能的实际可操控性不稳定，导致单向导湿功能效果时好时坏。并且由于此是涂覆、涂层在布表面上的生产工艺，经实际服装穿着、水洗后，此单向导湿功能会逐渐丧失。
公告号CN102048245B公开了一种单向导湿快干舒适布料及其制造方法，该单向导湿快干舒适布料包含一亲水性底布及多个疏水性图案。该亲水性底布具有一内表面及一外表面，多个疏水性图案嵌设于该内表面，该亲水性底布包含纤维材料，该疏水性图案被构造为以使得该亲水性底布通过毛细作用吸收该内表面的汗水并输送至该外表面。本发明的易染色纤维制品的制造方法为在一亲水性底布的一内表面嵌设多个疏水性图案，该亲水性底布包含纤维材料，该疏水性图案被构造为以使得该亲水性底布通过毛细作用吸收该内表面的汗水并输送至该外表面。该技术方案试图通过纺织图案的方式，达到单向导湿的目的。
此外，传统保暖棉服与羽绒服的存在静电摩擦大，机洗繁琐，加工流程复杂，里料与面料导湿性差等现象。因此，针对保暖棉服与羽绒服，有效解决导湿问题和静电问题，是具有现实意义的。
发明内容
为了克服现有技术的不足，本发明的一个目的是提供一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺；以解决传统保暖棉服和羽绒服在出汗后排汗湿不畅导致的失温问题，同时解决传统保暖棉服和羽绒服为了透气开腋下拉链带来的加工复杂和难的问题，并且彻底解决传统保暖棉服和羽绒服易产生静电伤害和机洗容易因为不透气导致气压炸洗衣机损害的问题。
本发明所述的一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，是通过如下技术方案实现。
本发明技术方案所述的动态保暖服装由单向导湿面料制成，所述单向导湿面料包括三层材料，具体包括表面层、保暖层和里衬层；
其中，所述的表面层需要使用单向导湿梭织面料，其面料特征为单层双密度结构，表面结构可以是任意全棉，涤纶，尼龙纱线或者纱线；内里结构可以为丙纶纱线；或者为并列氨纶包覆纱；或者是经过疏水剂改性的涤纶、尼龙纱线、或并列氨纶包覆纱。这种面料因为其为双层结构编织的单层面料，具备物理单向导湿效果，对传统加工裁剪没有特殊要求，而且如果内里结构是丙纶的话还具备物理抗菌的特性。
所述的保暖层可以是全棉膨化棉绒朵、聚酯纤维膨化的化纤绒朵、或鸭绒与鹅绒绒朵；
进一步，在中间填充加工的时候填充料正反面挂块状无纺布，自然生物的绒朵做防钻绒绒包处理。
所述的里衬层与表面层相同；进一步，在里衬层的纬纱方向按间隔2cm-5cm间隔金属导电纱，用于减弱因为化纤材料与人体摩擦时产生的高压静电团。
进一步，本发明技术方案所述的表面层需要使用不低于45d的单向导湿梭织面料，其面料特征为单层双密度结构，表面结构是可以任意全棉，涤纶，尼龙fdy纱线或者dty纱线，内里结构可以为45d-75d dty丙纶纱线或并列20d氨纶包覆纱、经过疏水剂改性的45d-75d涤纶、尼龙dty纱线并列20d氨纶包覆纱；
此外，本发明技术方案第二种实施方案，所述的单向导湿面料动态保暖服装共有五层，所述五层包括表面层、第一保暖层、中间夹层、第二保暖层和里衬层。
此外，本发明技术方案所述的加工方法，具体实施对表面面料有严格的加工顺序要求，首先表面单向导湿面料必须严格按照正反面标示清楚以避免台面操作失误导致加工出来的成品丧失上述功能性，因为面料是单层双密度，在采用化学疏水剂的情况下有可能导致里外是同色无色差，这样在加工时候极易导致正反颠倒而导致成品功能丧失，如果采用丙纶纱做里的面料，正反色差大，单层双颜色易区分。
本加工方法的具体实施对中间保暖填充料的加工要求只需要按传统保暖填充料处理即可，无需区分正反面。
本加工方法的具体实施对里料单向导湿面料与表面面料一样，具有严格的加工顺序要求，否则成品加工出来后不具备上述功能性。
本加工方法的具体实施方法为表面单向导湿面料和里衬抗静电单向导湿面料标记正反面经过裁床裁剪后，将中间保暖填充料与里衬单向导湿面料先缝合，在此当中，里衬单向导湿面料的内里部分必须为朝向人体面。
与现有技术相比，本发明技术方案的有益效果包括：
1.该发明能够彻底解决传统保暖类服装无法透气透湿的问题，传统保暖类服装为了避免填充料钻绒现象，面料都是高密或者超高密梭织面料，本身透湿性极差，本发明方法制作的成品具备实时动态的单向导湿透气透湿效果，其原理是单向导湿面料的采用具备了单向吸湿，配合人体的恒温与外界的巨大温度差，实时的对人体产生的热湿气进行不断的从里层层挤压到表面层升华挥发，经过中间填充料时，绝大部份人体散发的热量被中间填充料蓄留，透气的同时极大减少了热损失，从而在任何室外高寒环境的大运动量情况下，始终保持人体处于接近恒定体温的温暖而干燥的状态。
2.该发明能够彻底解决传统保暖服类产品抗静电难的问题，通过里衬单向导湿面料纬纱并列金属导电丝，在具备动态单向导湿功能的同时对人体与服装摩擦导致的高压静电具备充分的抗静电效果，避免了静电电团对人体的伤害，也避免了冬季因为静电导致的意外安全事故的产生。
3.该发明能够彻底解决传统保暖服类产品因排湿不良导致的湿气积累，需要额外设计腋下透气窗口或者前胸透气窗口的问题，因为成品具备实时动态排湿和保温，所以完全不需要设计任何额外透气窗口，减少了加工环节，降低了加工成本，同时提高了加工速度。
4.该发明能够彻底解决传统保暖类服装臃肿膨化的问题，因为具备实时动态单向导湿功能，也不需要设计额外的透气窗，所以成品具备轻便，保暖，透气等特点，实时动态单向导湿功能还降低了对中间填充料的克罗值(热值)要求，同时保暖标定温度范围不变化，这样在实际测试中，负10度-负15度，躯干填充200g/M2,袖子填充120g/M2，风帽填充120G/M2，6级风情况下，身体只需要一件t恤即可抵御风雪严寒天气情况，极大的减少了人体的着装负担。
5.该发明彻底解决了传统保暖类服装难清洗的问题，采用该方法制作的保暖服可以做到任意机洗任意脱水任意晾晒，不用担心因为面料不透气导致机洗时候气压瞬间爆炸现象。
为使本发明具体实施方式的目的和技术方案更加清楚，下面将结合本发明的具体实施方式的实施实例，对本发明具体实施方式的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述。显然，所描述的具体实施方式是本发明的一部分具体实施方式，而不是全部的具体实施方式。基于所描述的本发明的具体实施方式，本领域普通技术人员在无需创造性劳动的前提下所制备的所有其它具体实施方式，都属于本发明保护的范围。
附图说明
图1是本发明所述三层结构单向导湿面料截面示意图；
图2是本发明所述五层结构单向导湿面料截面示意图；
图3是本发明所述动态保暖服装的三层结构示意图；
图4是本发明所述动态保暖服装的五层结构示意图；
图5是本发明所述动态保暖服装的立体示意图。
附图标记
1表面层； 2保暖层； 3里衬层；
21第一保暖层 22第二保暖层 4中间夹层
具体实施方案
以下通过具体的实施例，进一步说明本发明的技术方案。本阀门技术方案的具体实施例，根据保暖程度需求不同分为轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备和重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备，两者加工方法不完全相同。
实施例1轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备
图1是本发明所述三层结构单向导湿面料截面示意图，所述的单向导湿面料用以制备所述的轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装；由图1可知，所述的单向导湿面料包括表面层1、保暖层2和里衬层3；所述表面层1作为所述轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装外层布料，所述里衬层3作为所述轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装内层布料；所述保暖层2处于表面层1和里衬层3之间。
在本实施例中，所述的表面层1使用90d的单向导湿梭织面料，其面料特征为单层双密度结构，表面结构是尼龙fdy纱线或者dty纱线；内里结构为尼龙dty纱线并列20d氨纶包覆纱。
所述的保暖层2是鸭绒与鹅绒绒朵，并进行防钻绒绒包处理；
所述的里衬层3与表面层1的区别在于在所述里衬层3的纬纱方向，按间隔,5cm间隔金属导电纱，以减弱因为化纤材料与人体摩擦时产生的高压静电，图3是本发明所述动态保暖服装的三层结构示意图；示出了所述轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装的三层成型结构，具体包括表面层1、保暖层2和里衬层3。
在本实施例中，所述轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装的躯干部分用整块80g/M2-160g/M2夹棉作为保暖层2，与单向导湿抗静电面料的里衬层3缝合，采用等间面线车缝合里衬层3和作为保暖填充块料的保暖层2，所述保暖服装的袖子部分同躯干部分做法，如所述轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装有带风帽，则做法同躯干。正面口袋袖袋不需要填保暖层2缝合。
实施例2轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备
所述方法和步骤，与实施例1相同，区别在于所述的表面层1的表面结构是涤纶纱线；内里结构为75d dty涤丙/尼丙面料。
所述的保暖层2是聚酯纤维膨化的化纤绒朵；
所述的里衬层3与表面层1的区别仅在于在所述里衬层3的纬纱方向，按间隔,2cm间隔金属导电纱。
实施例3重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备
图2是本发明所述五层结构单向导湿面料截面示意图，所述的单向导湿面料用以制备所述的重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装；由图2可知，所述的单向导湿面料以此包括表面层1、第一保暖层21、中间夹层4、第二保暖层22和里衬层3；所述表面层1作为所述重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装外层布料，所述里衬层3作为所述重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装内层布料；其中，所述第一保暖层21处于所述表面层1与所述中间夹层4之间；所述第二保暖层22处于中间夹层4和里衬层3之间；所述中间夹层4处于所述第一保暖层21和所述第二保暖层22之间，用于分隔所述第一保暖层21和所述第二保暖层22。
在本实施例中，所述的表面层1使用75d的单向导湿梭织面料，表面结构是尼龙fdy纱线；内里结构是经过疏水剂改性的涤纶。
所述的第一保暖层21是120克/M2的夹棉，所述第二保暖层22为整块80g/M2夹棉；
所述的里衬层3与表面层1的区别在于在所述里衬层3的纬纱方向，按间隔,5cm间隔金属导电纱，以减弱因为化纤材料与人体摩擦时产生的高压静电；图4是本发明所述动态保暖服装的五层结构示意图，示出了所述重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装的五层成型结构，具体包括表面层1、第一保暖层21、中间夹层4、第二保暖层22和里衬层3。
在本实施例3中，所述重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装的躯干前幅部分(胸口部分)首先为整块80g/M2夹棉作为第二保暖层22，所述第二保暖层22夹在单向导湿抗静电面料的里衬层3和中间夹层4间包裹缝合，采用等间面线车缝合里衬层3和第二保暖层22。然后在已经缝合好的前幅保暖片基础上再插入160克/M2的第一保暖层21，依旧采用等间面线车缝，与缝合好的前幅半成品在缝合后与表面层1缝合为整块前幅成品。
袖子部分按照实施例1所述方法缝合即可，如有带风帽，则做法同实施例1所述袖子部分做法即可。正面口袋袖袋不需要填充保暖填充料。
如图4所示的表面层1、第一保暖层21、中间夹层4、第二保暖层22和里衬层3。所述的第一保暖层21和第二保暖层22与所述的单向导湿面料里衬层3缝合为半成品的时候，必须严格检查面料正反朝向，带抗静电纱的一面为朝向人体面，之后开始缝合表面层1面料，表面层1面料的反面必须和里衬层3面料一样，朝向人体面。
按照图4，所述中间保暖填充料第一保暖层21和第二保暖层22与单向导湿面料的中间夹层4和里衬层3缝合为三明治结构半成品的时候，必须严格检查三明治结构面料正反朝向，带抗静电纱的一面为朝向人体面，之后开始缝合表面面料的表面层1，表面层1的反面必须和里衬层3的面料一样，朝向人体面。
实施例4重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备
所述方法和步骤，与实施例3相同，区别在于：
区别在于所述的表面层1的表面结构是全棉纱线；内里结构:为尼龙dty纱线并列20d氨纶包覆纱。
所述的第一保暖层21是聚酯纤维膨化的化纤绒朵；
所述第二保暖层22是全棉膨化棉绒朵；
所述的里衬层3与表面层1的区别仅在于在所述里衬层3的纬纱方向，按间隔,3cm间隔金属导电纱。
任何朝向人体方向的，都是以单层双密度的单向导湿梭织面料为主，其中单层双密度当中，如果以丙纶面为底基，则丙纶面必须朝向人体方向，如果是化学改性单向导湿梭织面料，则需要面料标注正反面朝向人体方向，此发明仅只能通过梭织面料实现，针织面料因其组织结构问题，无法做到防钻绒，因此意义不大。
实施例5
采用GB/T 11048-2018和GB/T 5453-1997标准方法分别测定实施例1-4的产品的热阻、克罗值、热导率和采用透气性等指标，结果如下：
检测指标 检测方法 样品1 样品2 样品3 样品4
热阻 GB/T 11048-2018 0.43 0.418 0.62 0.60
克罗值 GB/T 11048-2018 2.78 2.74 3.56 3.42
折算保温率 GB/T 11048-2018 94 89 98.6 97.8
热导率 GB/T 11048-2018 0.0293 0.0298 0.0105 0.0110
透气性 GB/T 5453-1997 39 42 31 32
GB/T 11048-2018和GB/T 5453-1997均为最新国家标准。
本次测定委托第三方检测机构完成。
其中，所述样品1-4分别对应实施例1-4的产品；样品1和样品2为实施例1和实施例2所述的轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装；样品3和样品4为实施例3和实施例4所述的重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装；本次样品1和样品2为M型成衣，填充量是198-200克；样品3和样品4为M型成衣，填充量是248-250克。
一般90％鹅绒/700-800蓬松度的短款男正常版型的羽绒服，200克静坐大约抵御10度，即克罗值大约是2.3；
样品1和样品2作为轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装，其克罗值分别为2.78和2.74，即相比于上述90％鸭绒的短款男正常版型的羽绒服，在同样填充量的情况下，克罗值分别提高了20.8％和19.1％，样品1和样品2优于90％鸭绒的短款男正常版型的羽绒服。样品1和样品2适合日常环境-15℃至10℃中使用,并且在相同保暖温度范围内比传统保温棉服填充少。
样品3和样品4作为重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装，其克罗值分别为3.56和3.42，即相比于上述90％鸭绒的短款男正常版型的羽绒服，克罗值分别提高了54.8％和48.7％，样品3和样品4更适合在环境温度-30℃至-10℃使用,并且在相同保暖温度范围内比传统保温棉服填充少。
从以上数据可以看出，相比于轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装样品，重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装样品的热导率更低，相对保温率更高,透气性也相对降低，原因是重型单向导湿的动态保暖服装增加了中间夹层4、第二保暖层22，结果符合预期。
以上结合具体实施例，对本发明技术方案的具体实施方式进行了进一步描述，此具体实施方案是为了对本技术方案的详细描述，而不是为了限制本技术方案。以上所述的具体实施方案，仅仅是对本发明的优选实施方式进行描述，并非对本发明的技术构思和保护范围进行限定，在不脱离本发明设计构思的前提下，本领域普通技术人员对本技术方案作出的各种变型和改进，均应落入本发明的保护范围。

Claims (10)

1.一种具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述的动态保暖服装由单向导湿面料制成，所述单向导湿面料包括三层材料，具体包括表面层、保暖层和里衬层；所述轻型单向导湿的动态保暖服装的躯干部分用整块80g/M2-160g/M2夹棉作为保暖层，与单向导湿抗静电面料的里衬层缝合，采用等间面线车缝合里衬层和作为保暖填充块料的保暖层，所述保暖服装的袖子部分同躯干部分做法，正面口袋袖袋不需要填保暖层缝合。
2.根据权利要求1所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述的表面层需要使用单向导湿梭织面料，其面料特征为单层双密度结构，表面结构是任意全棉，涤纶，尼龙纱线或者纱线；内里结构为丙纶纱线；或者为并列氨纶包覆纱；或者是经过疏水剂改性的涤纶、尼龙纱线、或并列氨纶包覆纱。
3.根据权利要求1所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于,所述的保暖层是全棉膨化棉绒朵、聚酯纤维膨化的化纤绒朵、或鸭绒与鹅绒绒朵。
4.根据权利要求1所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述的里衬层与表面层相同。
5.根据权利要求4所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于里衬层的纬纱方向按间隔2cm-5cm间隔金属导电纱。
6.根据权利要求2-5任意一项所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述的表面层使用不低于45d的单向导湿梭织面料，其面料特征为单层双密度结构，表面结构是任意全棉，涤纶，尼龙fdy纱线或者dty纱线，内里结构为45d-75d dty丙纶纱线或并列20d氨纶包覆纱、经过疏水剂改性的45d-75d涤纶、尼龙dty纱线并列20d氨纶包覆纱。
7.根据权利要求1-6任意一项所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述的单向导湿面料共有五层，所述五层包括表面层、第一保暖层、中间夹层、第二保暖层和里衬层。
8.根据权利要求7所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述表面层、中间夹层和里衬层均为单向导湿面料。
9.根据权利要求7所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于所述第一保暖层和第二保暖层使用相同保暖材料。
10.根据权利要求1或2所述的具备单向导湿的动态保暖服装制备工艺，其特征在于在中间填充加工的时候填充料正反面挂块状无纺布，自然生物的绒朵做防钻绒绒包处理。
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