CN113662900A - Composition with effects of relieving, repairing and brightening skin, preparation method and application - Google Patents
Composition with effects of relieving, repairing and brightening skin, preparation method and application Download PDFInfo
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- CN113662900A CN113662900A CN202110947976.XA CN202110947976A CN113662900A CN 113662900 A CN113662900 A CN 113662900A CN 202110947976 A CN202110947976 A CN 202110947976A CN 113662900 A CN113662900 A CN 113662900A
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- skin
- extract
- composition
- aloe vera
- inonotus obliquus
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a composition with effects of relieving, repairing and brightening skin, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition comprises the following components: aloe vera extract, sodium hyaluronate, centella asiatica extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, polygonum hydropiper extract, Inonotus obliquus extract, jojoba seed oil, squalane, ceramide. The composition disclosed by the invention has the advantages that the components supplement each other, the synergistic effect is realized, the skin redness and swelling and itching are relieved, the skin barrier is repaired, the resistance of the skin to the external environment is enhanced, the skin color can be effectively brightened, and the technical problems of discomfort of sensitive skin, weak skin resistance to the external environment stimulation and dark skin color are well solved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with effects of relieving, repairing and brightening skin, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Sensitive skin refers to a high-response state of skin under physiological or pathological conditions, and is characterized by subjective symptoms such as burning, stabbing pain, pruritus and tightness of skin. There are many factors causing skin sensitivity, such as oxidative stress of skin caused by ultraviolet radiation such as UVA and UVB, excessive sebum loss from skin surface caused by improper use of cleansing products, skin barrier function destruction, air pollution, mental stress, etc., and even season changes can cause skin sensitivity. At present, the mechanism of skin sensitization is not yet clear, and it is widely studied that the development of sensitive muscle is a complex process involving skin barrier-neurovascular-immune inflammation.
Most of the compositions for soothing and repairing reported in patents and documents are combined with a capsaicin receptor (TRPV 1) to inhibit the expression of the TRPV 1 so as to relieve the problems of redness, itching and the like of the skin, and the soothing and repairing products can only relieve the discomfort problem of the skin and cannot improve the resistance of the skin to external stimulation, and when the same external stimulation appears again, the skin still has the phenomena of redness and itching.
In addition, since the skin barrier of sensitive skin is more fragile than that of healthy skin, when the skin is stimulated by external physical and chemical factors, the signal transmitted by sensory nerves is increased, and then skin immunity and inflammatory reaction are initiated, when the skin has inflammatory reaction, the cell membrane metabolism of cells such as keratinocytes, melanocytes and endothelial cells is vigorous, and inflammatory mediators such as histamine and leukotriene are generated, and the inflammatory mediators influence the function of the melanocytes, resulting in the formation of Post-inflammatory Pigmentation (PIH). The skin color is usually lightened by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, inhibiting melanocyte activity, accelerating melanosome migration and other modes in the common products for lightening the skin color on the market, but the products cannot fundamentally solve the problem of pigmentation caused by inflammatory reaction due to frequent occurrence of inflammatory reaction of sensitive skin. Thus, there are few products with a lightening effect suitable for sensitive skin.
The prior art provides a soothing and repairing composition containing ectoin and an application thereof, the composition comprises ectoin, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and polyhydric alcohol, the immune protective capability of skin cells is improved through compounding, the cell repairing capability is improved, and a good repairing effect on skin desquamation, redness, fever and other symptoms can be achieved; and simultaneously, the skin care product can relieve the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, skin aging caused by a dry environment, skin deterioration caused by a surfactant and the like. However, the invention mainly relieves discomfort of skin, has no obvious effect on repairing skin barrier and does not have the effect of brightening skin.
The prior art relates to a soothing and repairing composition containing multiple plant extracts, which is prepared from 1-10% of a moisturizing agent, 3-10% of a soothing and repairing agent, 0.1-3% of a preservative, and the balance of deionized water components, wherein the soothing and repairing agent comprises hydrolyzed lupin protein, carob fruit extract and vegetarian flower extract. The skin care cream has a good relieving effect, can effectively relieve the problems of red swelling, pain, itch, skin pain and the like of skin after stimulation, but has insufficient skin barrier repairing effect and capability of improving the resistance of the skin to the environment, and does not have the effect of brightening the skin.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention is directed to solving at least one of the problems of the prior art described above. Therefore, the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin is provided, and has the advantages of relieving skin redness and swelling and pruritus, repairing skin barriers of the skin, enhancing the resistance of the skin to the external environment, effectively brightening the skin and well solving the technical problems of discomfort of sensitive skin, weak skin resistance to external environment stimulation and dark skin color.
The first aspect of the invention provides a composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening skin, which comprises the following components: aloe vera extract, sodium hyaluronate, centella asiatica extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, polygonum hydropiper extract, Inonotus obliquus extract, jojoba seed oil, squalane, ceramide. Wherein the aloe vera extract is preferably aloe vera leaf water; the herba Centellae extract comprises madecassoside and asiaticoside.
The composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin comprises the following components:
the Aloe Barbadensis leaf water contains multiple natural skin care components such as saccharide, amino acids, various organic acids, minerals, vitamins, etc., and has the advantages of easy penetration and absorption; in addition, the composition also has the effects of promoting wound healing, enhancing tissue biochemical process, stimulating cell internal reaction, promoting cell growth and division, and accelerating wound tissue rehabilitation and healing.
The sodium hyaluronate has the characteristics of rapid transdermal absorption, direct penetration to epidermis and dermis, deep moisturizing and muscle bottom repairing.
Centella asiatica has good antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activities, and in clinic, the centella asiatica extract is used for treating small wounds, multiplication scars, burns, psoriasis and the like, and the centella asiatica can also reduce the production of proinflammatory mediators (IL-1, MMP-1), reduce the formation of inflammatory reaction, improve and repair the barrier function of skin per se, and simultaneously, can inhibit the proliferation of melanocytes, melanin synthesis and the activity of tyrosinase through the elimination of oxygen free radicals and the anti-lipid peroxide reaction, and has the brightening effect.
The centella asiatica extract of the present invention may be obtained by conventional water extraction or alcohol extraction.
The hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid is a high-efficiency anti-irritation, anti-histamine, antiallergic and antipruritic component, can effectively regulate the chain reaction of sensory nerves, can effectively inhibit erythema, edema and pruritus of skin caused by histamine through clinical verification, and can inhibit histamine release of mast cells and inhibit anaphylactic reaction through in vitro experiments.
The polygonum hydropiper extract avoids excessive reaction when cells are attacked by adjusting the starting critical value of dendritic cells of the skin to a proper level, improves the tolerance of sensitive skin and does not influence the normal immune function of the skin; the clinical application proves that the medicine has the effects of reducing discomfort and resisting erythema.
The polygonum hydropiper extract in the invention can be obtained by extracting by a conventional water extraction method or an alcohol extraction method.
The inonotus obliquus extract contains rich polyphenol components, has good effects of resisting inflammation, relieving, improving skin redness and improving the barrier function of the skin, wherein the inonotus obliquus total flavone contained in the extract can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity and has the brightening effect.
The jojoba oil supplements skin lipid components, has good moistening and moisturizing effects, and can repair skin barrier.
The squalane is a natural sucrose source, has a structure similar to that of squalene which is a skin sebum component, and has the effects of moistening, moisturizing and providing a skin barrier function by supplementing a skin lipid component.
Ceramide is an important lipoid component in a skin lipoid barrier, supplements the ceramide content in the horny layer of the epidermis, and can improve the conditions of dry skin, desquamation, roughness and the like; meanwhile, ceramide can increase the thickness of stratum corneum, improve the water holding capacity of skin, reduce wrinkles, enhance the elasticity of skin and delay skin aging.
The applicant of the invention finds that the aloe vera extract, the sodium hyaluronate, the centella asiatica extract, the hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, the polygonum hydropiper extract, the inonotus obliquus extract, the jojoba seed oil, the squalane and the ceramide have complementary and synergistic effects, and have the excellent effects of relieving skin redness and swelling and itching, repairing skin barriers, enhancing the resistance of the skin to the external environment and effectively brightening the skin color.
Preferably, the composition further comprises an emulsifier, and the components respectively account for the following mass percent of the composition: 85-95% of aloe vera extract, 0.1-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-0.3% of centella asiatica extract, 0.2-0.3% of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, 0.5-1.5% of polygonum hydropiper extract, 0.2-0.5% of inonotus obliquus extract, 1-5% of jojoba seed oil, 1-5% of squalane, 0.1-0.5% of ceramide and 1-1.5% of emulsifier.
Preferably, the components respectively account for the following mass percent of the composition: 87-93% of aloe vera extract, 0.1-0.3% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-0.3% of centella asiatica extract, 0.2-0.3% of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, 0.5-1.5% of polygonum hydropiper extract, 0.2-0.5% of inonotus obliquus extract, 1-5% of jojoba seed oil, 1-5% of squalane, 0.1-0.3% of ceramide and 1-1.5% of emulsifier.
Preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least one of hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate SE, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate and ceteth-21.
The second aspect of the present invention provides a preparation method of the composition with the effects of soothing and repairing skin and improving skin, comprising the following steps:
mixing the components, heating and stirring to obtain the composition.
Preferably, the preparation method of the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing the aloe vera leaves with water for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the aloe vera extract;
s2, mixing the inonotus obliquus with water, carrying out ultrasonic extraction, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the inonotus obliquus extract;
s3, adding the sodium hyaluronate into the aloe vera extract, heating and stirring to obtain phase A for later use;
s4, heating the squalane, the ceramide, the jojoba seed oil and the emulsifier, and stirring to obtain a B phase for later use;
s5, adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring, cooling, adding the centella asiatica extract, the hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, the polygonum hydropiper extract and the inonotus obliquus extract, defoaming, and standing to obtain the composition.
Preferably, the specific process of step S1 is:
cutting the aloe vera leaves, mixing with water according to a mass ratio of 1 (10-15), ultrasonically extracting for 2-5 hours at an ultrasonic frequency of 30-80KHz at a temperature of 40-60 ℃ under 1.1-1.5 atmospheric pressure conditions, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the aloe vera extract.
Preferably, the specific process of step S2 is:
chopping the inonotus obliquus, mixing with water according to the mass ratio of 1 (1-3), performing ultrasonic extraction for 3-6 hours at the ultrasonic frequency of 30-80KHz and the temperature of 40-60 ℃ under the condition of 1.1-1.5 atmospheric pressure, filtering, and collecting the filtrate to obtain the inonotus obliquus extract.
The applicant of the present invention also finds that the extraction and separation of the aloe vera leaf water and the inonotus obliquus extract can ensure that the active ingredients in the aloe vera leaf water and the inonotus obliquus extract can be fully extracted by adopting the ultrasonic high-pressure technology, and meanwhile, the loss of the temperature sensitive active ingredients is reduced after the high-pressure low-temperature treatment, so that the activity of the effective ingredients can be better protected. Further improving the soothing, repairing and skin lightening effects of the composition.
The third aspect of the invention provides the application of the composition with the effects of relieving and repairing and improving skin in cosmetics.
Preferably, the cosmetic comprises the composition with the effects of relieving and repairing skin and improving skin and auxiliary materials.
Preferably, the facial cream comprises the composition with the effects of relieving and repairing skin and improving skin and auxiliary materials.
Preferably, the auxiliary material comprises at least one of a preservative, a perfume, a skin conditioner and a thickener.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin is prepared by compounding the aloe vera extract, the sodium hyaluronate, the centella extract, the hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, the polygonum hydropiper extract, the inonotus obliquus extract, the jojoba seed oil, the squalane and the ceramide, has the advantages of relieving redness and swelling and itching of the skin, repairing skin barriers of the skin, enhancing the resistance of the skin to the external environment, effectively brightening the skin color and well solving the technical problems of discomfort of sensitive skin, weak skin resistance to the external environment and dull skin color by supplementing the components and realizing synergistic effect.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a facial image of a test subject using the cream of application example 9 in test example 1.
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical solutions of the present invention more apparent to those skilled in the art, the following examples are given for illustration. It should be noted that the following examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claimed invention.
The starting materials, reagents or apparatuses used in the following examples are conventionally commercially available or can be obtained by conventionally known methods, unless otherwise specified.
Example 1
A composition with skin soothing, repairing and skin lightening effects is shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1
The preparation method of the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin comprises the following steps:
s1, cleaning the aloe leaves with deionized water to remove impurities, drying at 40-60 ℃, cutting the dried aloe leaves, mixing with deionized water according to the mass ratio of 1:10, ultrasonically extracting for 3 hours under the conditions of ultrasonic frequency of 50KHz, temperature of 50 ℃ and 1.3 atmospheric pressure, cooling to room temperature, and filtering to remove impurities to obtain aloe leaf water;
s2, cleaning inonotus obliquus with deionized water to remove impurities, drying at 40-60 ℃, chopping the dried inonotus obliquus, mixing with deionized water according to the mass ratio of 1:10, ultrasonically extracting for 4 hours under the conditions of ultrasonic frequency of 50KHz, temperature of 50 ℃ and 1.3 atmospheric pressure, cooling to room temperature, and filtering with a microporous filter membrane to remove impurities to obtain an inonotus obliquus extract;
s3, adding sodium hyaluronate into aloe barbadensis leaf water, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring until the solution is transparent, wherein the solution serves as phase A for later use;
s4, heating squalane, ceramide, jojoba seed oil and cetearyl glucoside to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve uniformly to obtain phase B for later use;
s5, keeping the temperature at 80-85 ℃, adding the phase B into the phase A under the homogenizing condition of 3000-9000rpm, quickly stirring and homogenizing for 10-15 minutes, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the phase C component under the stirring condition, defoaming, standing and setting to obtain the composition.
Example 2
A composition with skin soothing, repairing and skin lightening effects is shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
The preparation method of the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin comprises the following steps:
s1, cleaning the aloe leaves with deionized water to remove impurities, drying at 40-60 ℃, cutting the dried aloe leaves, mixing with deionized water according to the mass ratio of 1:10, ultrasonically extracting for 2 hours under the conditions of ultrasonic frequency of 30KHz, temperature of 40 ℃ and 1.1 atmospheric pressure, cooling to room temperature, and filtering to remove impurities to obtain aloe leaf water;
s2, cleaning inonotus obliquus with deionized water to remove impurities, drying at 40-60 ℃, chopping the dried inonotus obliquus, mixing with deionized water according to the mass ratio of 1:10, ultrasonically extracting for 5 hours under the conditions of ultrasonic frequency of 40KHz, temperature of 40 ℃ and 1.1 atmospheric pressure, cooling to room temperature, and filtering with a microporous filter membrane to remove impurities to obtain an inonotus obliquus extract;
s3, adding sodium hyaluronate into aloe barbadensis leaf water, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring until the solution is transparent, wherein the solution serves as phase A for later use;
s4, heating squalane, ceramide, jojoba seed oil and cetearyl glucoside to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve uniformly to obtain phase B for later use;
s5, keeping the temperature at 80-85 ℃, adding the phase B into the phase A under the homogenizing condition of 3000-9000rpm, quickly stirring and homogenizing for 10-15 minutes, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the phase C component under the stirring condition, defoaming, standing and setting to obtain the composition.
Example 3
A composition with skin soothing, repairing and skin lightening effects is shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3
The preparation method of the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening the skin comprises the following steps:
s1, cleaning the aloe leaves with deionized water to remove impurities, drying at 40-60 ℃, cutting the dried aloe leaves, mixing with deionized water according to the mass ratio of 1:10, ultrasonically extracting for 4 hours under the conditions of ultrasonic frequency of 70KHz, temperature of 60 ℃ and 1.4 atmospheric pressure, cooling to room temperature, and filtering to remove impurities to obtain aloe leaf water;
s2, cleaning inonotus obliquus with deionized water to remove impurities, drying at 40-60 ℃, chopping the dried inonotus obliquus, mixing with deionized water according to the mass ratio of 1:10, ultrasonically extracting for 6 hours under the conditions of ultrasonic frequency of 60KHz, temperature of 60 ℃ and 1.4 atmospheric pressure, cooling to room temperature, and filtering with a microporous filter membrane to remove impurities to obtain an inonotus obliquus extract;
s3, adding sodium hyaluronate into aloe barbadensis leaf water, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring until the solution is transparent, wherein the solution serves as phase A for later use;
s4, heating squalane, ceramide, jojoba seed oil and cetearyl glucoside to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve uniformly to obtain phase B for later use;
s5, keeping the temperature at 80-85 ℃, adding the phase B into the phase A under the homogenizing condition of 3000-9000rpm, quickly stirring and homogenizing for 10-15 minutes, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the phase C component under the stirring condition, defoaming, standing and setting to obtain the composition.
Example 4
A composition with skin soothing, repairing and skin lightening effects is shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4
The preparation method of this example is the same as example 1.
Example 5
A composition with skin soothing, repairing and skin lightening effects is shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5
The preparation method of this example is the same as example 2.
Example 6
Compared with example 1, the difference is that the preparation method of the composition has no ultrasonic wave in the extraction of the aloe vera leaf water and the inonotus obliquus extract, and the other conditions are the same as example 1.
Example 7
Compared with example 1, the difference is that the pressure of extraction of aloe vera leaf water and inonotus obliquus extract is 1 atmosphere in the preparation method of the composition, and other conditions are the same as example 1.
Example 8
Compared with example 1, the difference is that the preparation method of the composition has the extraction pressure of aloe vera leaf water and inonotus obliquus extract of 1 atmosphere, and has no ultrasonic wave, and other conditions are the same as example 1.
Application example 1
An essence with a formula shown in table 6.
TABLE 6
The preparation method of the application example essence comprises the following steps:
s1, uniformly dispersing xanthan gum in glycerol in advance, putting deionized water in the phase A into an emulsifying pot, directly putting the dispersed glycerol, xanthan gum, EDTA disodium and hydroxyethyl cellulose into the emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring and dispersing uniformly;
s2, heating the p-hydroxyacetophenone in the phase B in butanediol in advance until the p-hydroxyacetophenone is dissolved and transparent, adding the mixture into an emulsifying pot at the temperature of 60 ℃, and stirring and dispersing the mixture uniformly;
s3, cooling to 45 ℃, adding the phase C, and stirring and dispersing until the phase C is completely dissolved;
and S4, cooling to 37 ℃, uniformly stirring and refining, inspecting physicochemical indexes such as color, pH, fragrance and appearance, vacuumizing and defoaming, filtering with 200 meshes after inspection is qualified, and discharging to obtain the essence.
Application example 2
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 2, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 3
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 3, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 4
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 4, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 5
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 5, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 6
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 6, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 7
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 7, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 8
The difference from application example 1 was that the composition obtained in example 1 in phase C was changed to the composition obtained in example 8, and the other raw materials and the preparation method were the same as in application example 1.
Application example 9
A facial cream has a formula shown in Table 7.
TABLE 7
The preparation method of the application example facial cream comprises the following steps:
s1, uniformly dispersing xanthan gum in glycerol in advance, putting deionized water in the phase A into an emulsifying pot, directly putting the dispersed glycerol, the xanthan gum, disodium EDTA and carbomer into the emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring and dispersing uniformly;
s2, putting stearic acid, glyceryl stearate SE and shea butter in the phase B into an oil phase pot, heating to 80 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and adding polydimethylsiloxane before emulsification;
s3, slowly adding the phase B into an emulsifying pot for emulsification, keeping the temperature at 80 ℃, and quickly stirring and homogenizing for 10-15 minutes;
s4, after emulsification is finished, cooling to 60 ℃, preheating the p-hydroxyacetophenone in the phase C in butanediol to be dissolved and transparent, respectively adding the p-hydroxyacetophenone and the aminomethyl propanol into an emulsification pot at the temperature of 60 ℃, and stirring and dispersing the mixture uniformly;
s5, cooling to 45 ℃, adding the phase D, and stirring and dispersing until the phase D is completely dissolved;
s6, cooling to 37 ℃, stirring uniformly and finely, inspecting physicochemical indexes such as color, pH, fragrance and appearance, vacuumizing and defoaming, filtering with 200 meshes after inspection is qualified, and discharging to obtain the cream.
Comparative example 1
The difference is that the aloe vera leaf water in the composition is replaced by deionized water, and the other raw materials and preparation method are the same as in example 2.
Comparative examples 2 to 9
Compared with example 2, the difference is that sodium hyaluronate, jojoba seed oil, squalane, ceramide, centella asiatica extract, hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, polygonum hydropiper extract and inonotus obliquus extract are not added in the composition respectively, and other raw materials and preparation methods are the same as example 2.
Comparative application examples 1 to 8
Compared with application example 1, the difference is that the composition obtained in example 1 in the formula of the essence liquid is respectively replaced by the compositions obtained in comparative example 1 and comparative examples 3-9, and other raw materials and the preparation method are the same as application example 1.
It should be noted that, since the composition obtained in comparative example 2 was delaminated after being left at room temperature, the composition obtained in comparative example 2 was not used for preparing a serum and no subsequent test was performed.
Comparative application example 9
Compared with application example 9, the difference is that the composition obtained in example 1 is not contained in the formula of the face cream, and other raw materials and the preparation method are the same as application example 9.
1. Test example 1VISIA skin analysis evaluation test
The VISIA skin image analyzer adopts a multi-spectral image technology, can shoot from three angles of a front side, a left side and a right side through a 1200 ten thousand pixel camera, and forms images in three light sources of standard white light, cross-section polarized light and ultraviolet light for three times, so that the VISIA facial image analysis system can systematically analyze pigment spots, textures, pores, wrinkles, ultraviolet light spots, stable spots, red areas and purple on the facial skin of a subject, and provides accurate and quantitative analysis basis for the skin. The change condition of the skin property is observed by recording pigment spots, wrinkles and textures of the face of a subject before and after the test, wherein the absolute value of the value represents the area and the strength of the detected value of the skin characteristic, so that the data obtained by the absolute value (the average value of the test results of the front side, the left side and the right side) is selected as an analysis standard and a data statistical basis. All data of each subject are input into a computer, the measured results are compared, and the skin characteristics and various index data of the subjects are analyzed through statistical treatment.
1.1 test Instrument
VISIA facial image analysis System (CANFIELD technologies, USA)
1.2 Experimental sample preparation
The following tests were carried out on the creams obtained in application example 9 and comparative application example 9.
1.3 test methods
20 women of the sensitive skin people (the stabbing pain feeling is more than or equal to 3 points) are selected, and the age is 25-40 years old. The creams obtained in application example 9 and comparative application example 9 were used for 10 persons each, which were randomly divided into 2 groups. The subjects were asked to follow up on a continuous basis, to apply the product 2 times a day, morning and evening, to trial for 28 days, and to require a visit on days 14 (D14) and 28 (D28) of the trial. The test of the same subject is performed by the same measuring person.
Any product (cosmetics or external medicines or internal health care products) cannot be used for 15 days before the tested part. After the face is thoroughly cleaned by using a uniform facial cleaning product, the face is lightly wiped by using a paper towel, the face of a tester is photographed by using a VISIA facial image analyzer after the room temperature is 22 +/-2 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40 +/-2% for 15 minutes, and the analysis area is prevented from being interfered by a light reflecting area and hair as much as possible. Shooting the face (including the front, the left side and the right side) of the subject, performing data statistics on the obtained absolute scores, and recording the detection data of the red area of the face of the subject.
1.4 results of the experiment
The results are shown in FIG. 1 and Table 8. In fig. 1, a, b and c are facial images of one of the testers using the cream of application example 9 before use, after 1 week and 2 weeks, respectively.
TABLE 8 test results rate of change
As can be seen from the test data in table 8, the results of VISIA skin image analysis clearly compare the differences in efficacy of the creams obtained in application example 9 versus application example 9. The data of application example 9 show that the red area and the melanin value are obviously reduced after 14 days of cream containing the composition, the red area and the melanin value reach considerable values after 28 days, and compared with the red area and the melanin value of a subject of application example 9, the red area and the melanin value are not obviously changed, which shows that the cream containing the composition can well reduce the red area and the melanin value of sensitive skin, and has obvious effects of relieving, repairing and brightening. As can be seen from fig. 1, VISIA skin image analysis shows that after 7 days (fig. 1b) and 14 days (fig. 1c) of the cream containing the composition of the present invention, compared with the cream before use (fig. 1a), the red skin area of the skin is obviously improved, the melanin content is also remarkably reduced, and the whole skin color is remarkably brightened, which shows that the cream containing the composition of the present invention can remarkably relieve the sensitive red skin area and reduce the melanin content, and has remarkable effects of relieving and repairing and brightening the skin color.
2. Test example 2 consumer evaluation
2.1 Experimental sample preparation
Samples of application examples 1 to 8 were prepared.
2.2 Experimental methods
Selecting 40 women with sensitive skin quality with water dispersion value of 10 or more, wherein the age is 25-45 years old. The samples of application examples 1 to 8 were used for each group of 5 persons, which were randomly divided into 8 groups. The subjects were asked to perform the test on the face using 2 consecutive daily product applications in the morning and evening for 28 consecutive days and asked to return visits on days 14 (D14) and 28 (D28) of the trial. The method comprises the following steps of carrying out effect evaluation on a sample in the using process, wherein the effect evaluation comprises the functions of relieving, repairing, brightening, moisturizing, resisting wrinkles, moderating and the like, wherein the effects of resisting wrinkles, moisturizing, moderating and the like are psychological hints for reducing three effects of relieving, repairing and brightening in the using process of a consumer, so that the grading is influenced. Scores were given as 5 points, with a maximum of 5 (very good) and a minimum of 1 (very poor), and intermediate scores could be 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, etc.
2.3 results of the experiment
Filling out a trial evaluation table according to the sensory evaluation. The evaluation tables for experimental trials are collected, and the statistical results are shown in tables 9 and 10.
TABLE 9 average values of human trial evaluation results
As can be seen from the results in Table 9, the soothing, repairing and brightening effects of the application examples 1-3 are more obvious than those of the application examples 4-5, which shows that the components of the composition are in the range further defined by the invention, and the composition has the best soothing, repairing and brightening effects when being applied to essence; application examples 1 to 3 compared with the data of application examples 6 to 8, the ultrasonic wave and the pressure have important influence on the preparation of the aloe vera leaf water and the inonotus obliquus extract, the aloe vera leaf water and the inonotus obliquus extract prepared under the condition of certain ultrasonic frequency and pressure have higher active ingredients, the prepared composition has stronger efficacy, and the soothing, repairing and brightening effects of the composition are more obvious when the composition is applied to cosmetics.
TABLE 10 trial self-evaluation consent level of human
As can be seen from the results in Table 10, more than 76% of consumers in application examples 1 to 3 evaluated themselves to use the essence of the composition of the present invention to significantly improve skin gloss, and more than 83% of consumers evaluated it to be effective in relieving skin redness and inflammation, as compared to application examples 4 to 8. In addition, the skin comfort level is obviously improved after 28 days of using the essence of application examples 1-3. The essence liquid of application examples 1-3 can effectively enhance the skin barrier, improve the capability of the skin in resisting the external environment stimulation and reduce the symptoms of skin sensitivity and discomfort; description application examples 1-3 further limit the content of each component and prepare aloe vera leaf water and inonotus obliquus extract by ultrasound and pressure intensity, so that the efficacy of the product is improved.
3. Test example 3 testing of skin moisture content and skin moisture loss (TEWL)
3.1 preparation of the samples
Application examples 1 to 3 and comparative application examples 1 to 8 were prepared, respectively, and the following experiments were carried out.
3.2 test Instrument
A skin moisture content Corneometer test probe manufactured by Courage + Khazaka, germany (CK, germany). Skin moisture loss (TEWL) Tewameter TM300 test probe manufactured by Courage + Khazaka, Germany (CK).
3.3 test methods
The moisture test adopts the recognized methodFa-capacitance method, which is based on the dielectric constant of water (81) and other substances<7) The change is quite large, and according to the difference of the water content, the measuring capacitor with the proper shape changes along with the change of the capacitance of the skin, and the capacitance of the skin is in the measuring range, so that the water content of the skin can be measured.
Skin moisture loss TEWL is a very important parameter for assessing the function of skin aging. As skin ages, the water retention capacity of the skin gradually decreases, the more dry the skin becomes and the lower the TEWL value of skin water loss. The testing principle is derived from Fick's diffusion law:
3.4 preliminary preparation of the test
Selecting 40 women with sensitive skin quality with water dispersion value of 10 or more, wherein the age is 20-45 years old. The groups were randomized into 8 groups of 5. Any product (cosmetics or external medicines or internal health care products) cannot be used for 15 days before the tested part. Before the test, the subject was asked to wash and cleanse the face and sit still for 30min in a constant temperature and humidity room at a temperature of 22 + -1 deg.C and a humidity of 50 + -5% 2 hours after the washing, and to maintain a relaxed state.
3.5 evaluation of moisture content and moisture loss (TEWL) efficacy on the face
In the experiment, a half face test is carried out according to a random table, wherein samples of application examples 1-3 are used on one side, and samples of comparative application examples 1-8 are used on the other side; the left and right nasolabial sulcus parts of the volunteer were selected for skin moisture content test and moisture loss (TEWL) test, and the average of 3 values was taken as the nasolabial sulcus moisture content data (D0) and the nasolabial sulcus skin moisture loss data (TEWL) (D0). After the test is finished, the volunteers need to use the product according to the regulations, one side face is coated with one product, and the other side face is coated with the other product. When in use, the right face is smeared by the right hand, the left face is smeared by the left hand, cross contamination is forbidden, product smearing is carried out 2 times a day in the morning and at night, the trial is continuously carried out for 28 days, and the 14 th (D14) and 28 th (D28) days of the trial are required to carry out return visit. The lighting conditions at each time point should remain consistent: the curtain is closed and the lighting is proper. The subject was lying in bed. The angle of bed tilt should be consistent at each point in time. The position of the bed must be noted on the ground to ensure consistency of the positions of D14 and D28. The test of the same volunteer was performed by the same measurement staff.
3.6 results of the experiment
TABLE 11 Experimental test results Rate of change
As can be seen from the data in Table 11, the water content was increased significantly at day 28 and the TEWL value was decreased significantly at day 28 after the samples of application examples 1-3 were used, which indicates that the essence containing the composition of the present invention can significantly increase the water content of the skin stratum corneum, and at the same time, can effectively reduce the amount of transepidermal water loss, and has a significant function of repairing the skin barrier. On the 28 th day after the comparative application examples 1-8 are used, the moisture content does not change obviously, and the TEWL value on the 28 th day does not change obviously, which shows that the components of the composition have the functions of synergy and supplement each other, and after the components are scientifically matched, the composition has obvious skin barrier repairing capability, and can effectively improve the resistance of the skin to the external environment.
4. Test example 4TNF-a content inhibition test
4.1 Experimental sample preparation
Samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 to 9 were prepared.
4.2 Experimental methods
When the inflammatory reaction caused by skin allergy exceeds the normal immune response of the skin, the skin can have symptoms of red swelling and pain, macrophages play a mediation role in the inflammatory reaction process, and the activated inflammatory factor TNF-alpha can induce and strengthen the inflammatory reaction. The LPS-induced RAW264.7 mouse macrophage model anti-inflammatory test is a test which is widely applied to screening whether a test object has anti-inflammatory efficacy at present.
4.2.1 cell culture
Resuscitated RAW264.7 cells were allowed to sit at 37 ℃ in 5% CO2In the incubator, the growth state of the cells is observed, and when the cells cover about 80 to 90% of the bottom area of the culture dish, the cell suspension is prepared into a 1X 10 DMEM solution by 10% FBS6~3×106The total cell number of (2) was plated.
4.2.2 TNF-alpha content assay
RAW264.7 cell concentration 1X 105one/mL of the cells were inoculated into 6-well plates (2 mL/well) and incubated at 37 ℃ with 5% CO2After incubation in the incubator for 24h, the old medium was discarded and washed 2 times with PBS. Adding a test substance to treat cells for 1h, adding a complete culture medium containing 5mg/L LPS, continuously incubating for 18-24 h, setting a corresponding blank group (i.e. LPS and the test substance are not added), collecting supernatant, centrifuging at 1000r/min for 10min, taking 200 mu L of supernatant, and detecting the content of TNF-alpha according to the specification of an ELISA kit.
4.3 results of the experiment
The results of the experiment are shown in Table 12.
TABLE 12 Effect on LPS stimulation of TNF- α production by RWA 264.7 cells
As can be seen from the data in Table 12, the examples 1 to 3 can effectively inhibit the LPS from inducing the RAW264.7 cells to generate the TNF-alpha, and compared with the LPS induced group, the inhibition rate of the examples 1 to 3 with 5% mass concentration on the TNF-alpha generated by the LPS stimulating the RAW264.7 cells reaches more than 100%, which shows that the composition has a remarkable effect of inhibiting inflammation, can quickly and effectively inhibit the inflammation of the skin caused by external stimulation, relieves the red swelling and pruritus of the skin, improves the capability of the skin for resisting the external environment stimulation, and accordingly relieves and repairs the skin. The inhibition rate of the sample of the comparative example 3-9 with the same mass concentration on the TNF-alpha generated by the RAW264.7 cell stimulated by LPS is between 42% and 59%, which is far lower than the inhibition rate of the sample of the example 1-3 on the TNF-alpha generated by the RAW264.7 cell stimulated by the TNF-alpha, which shows that the components of the composition have complementary synergistic effect, and the composition with the effects of relieving, repairing and brightening has obvious anti-inflammatory effect after scientific compounding.
5. Test example 5 safety evaluation test
Human skin patch experimental evaluation was performed on examples 1 to 8 with reference to "cosmetic hygiene standards", and high and low temperature storage stability evaluation and preservation challenge test were performed on application examples 1 to 3 and comparative application examples 1 to 8.
The skin patch experimental method is as follows: selecting healthy male/female as a subject, taking 0.03ml of sample by using an injector, placing the sample in a medicine chamber of a spot test adhesive tape, immediately and longitudinally sticking the spot test adhesive tape with the sample on normal skin of a left forearm from the lower part, and slightly pressing the medicine chamber one by one to expel air and uniformly distribute the test substances. The test site is marked for easy observation. Every 24 hours, and half an hour after the patch was removed, the examination was performed according to the terms of the CTFA guidelines (1981). The patch test was performed 6 times in total, and on day 6 after completion of the skin application, additional examination was performed to observe delayed reactions. The extent of the reaction of the skin of the subject to the product was observed and the reaction phenomenon was recorded. The patch identification criteria are shown in table 13.
TABLE 13 Patch identification Standard
Grade | (symbol) | Identification criteria |
0 | - | Negative reaction: has no irritation and erythema |
1 | ± | And (3) suspicious reaction: mild erythema |
2 | + | Weak positive reaction: erythema |
3 | ++ | Strong positive reaction: erythema, papules, blisters |
4 | +++ | Extremely strong positive reaction: severe edema and bulla |
The patch test results are shown in Table 14.
Table 14 patch test results
The high and low temperature storage test can be carried out by the following method: placing the product in an electric thermostat at-15 deg.C, 40 deg.C and 48 deg.C for 30-90 days, and observing the product after recovering to room temperature. The results of the high and low temperature storage stability of the products prepared in the corresponding application examples 1 to 3 and comparative application examples 1 to 8 are shown in the following table 15.
TABLE 15 high and Low temperature storage stability of the test formula
From the above results, it can be seen that the compositions prepared in examples 1-8 pass the patch test and can be used in cosmetic formulations. The essence prepared in application examples 1-3 and comparative application examples 1-8 is qualified in high and low temperature stability, and the actual product formula can be selected by integrating the cost, safety and product characteristics. The actual development of the tested products is far more than the above-mentioned ones, and only a part of the products and the development process thereof are listed as references.
While the preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the embodiments shown and described, but is capable of numerous equivalents and substitutions without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the claims appended hereto.
Claims (10)
1. A composition comprising the following components: aloe vera extract, sodium hyaluronate, centella asiatica extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, polygonum hydropiper extract, Inonotus obliquus extract, jojoba seed oil, squalane, ceramide.
2. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising an emulsifier, wherein the components respectively account for the following mass percentages of the composition: 85-95% of aloe vera extract, 0.1-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-0.3% of centella asiatica extract, 0.2-0.3% of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, 0.5-1.5% of polygonum hydropiper extract, 0.2-0.5% of inonotus obliquus extract, 1-5% of jojoba seed oil, 1-5% of squalane, 0.1-0.5% of ceramide and 1-1.5% of emulsifier.
3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the aloe vera extract is aloe vera leaf water; the herba Centellae extract comprises madecassoside and asiaticoside.
4. A process for the preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
mixing the components, heating and stirring to obtain the composition.
5. The method of claim 4, comprising the steps of:
s1, mixing the aloe vera leaves with water for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the aloe vera extract;
s2, mixing the inonotus obliquus with water, carrying out ultrasonic extraction, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the inonotus obliquus extract;
s3, adding the sodium hyaluronate into the aloe vera extract, heating and stirring to obtain phase A for later use;
s4, heating the squalane, the ceramide, the jojoba seed oil and the emulsifier, and stirring to obtain a B phase for later use;
s5, adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring, cooling, adding the centella asiatica extract, the hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, the polygonum hydropiper extract and the inonotus obliquus extract, defoaming, and standing to obtain the composition.
6. The preparation method according to claim 5, wherein the specific process of step S1 is as follows:
cutting the aloe vera leaves, mixing with water according to a mass ratio of 1 (10-15), ultrasonically extracting for 2-5 hours at an ultrasonic frequency of 30-80KHz at a temperature of 40-60 ℃ under 1.1-1.5 atmospheric pressure conditions, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the aloe vera extract.
7. The preparation method according to claim 5, wherein the specific process of step S2 is as follows:
chopping the inonotus obliquus, mixing with water according to the mass ratio of 1 (1-3), performing ultrasonic extraction for 3-6 hours at the ultrasonic frequency of 30-80KHz and the temperature of 40-60 ℃ under the condition of 1.1-1.5 atmospheric pressure, filtering, and collecting the filtrate to obtain the inonotus obliquus extract.
8. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in cosmetics.
9. A cosmetic comprising the composition of any one of claims 1 to 3 and an adjuvant.
10. A cream characterized by comprising the composition of any one of claims 1 to 3 and an adjuvant.
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CN114469843A (en) * | 2022-02-28 | 2022-05-13 | 广州环亚化妆品科技股份有限公司 | Composition with soothing and repairing effects and preparation method and application thereof |
CN116139033A (en) * | 2023-02-08 | 2023-05-23 | 广州环亚化妆品科技股份有限公司 | Composition for skin relief and repair, and preparation method and application thereof |
CN115969754A (en) * | 2023-03-21 | 2023-04-18 | 广州研智化妆品有限公司 | Composition with skin repairing effect |
CN115969754B (en) * | 2023-03-21 | 2023-05-23 | 广州研智化妆品有限公司 | Composition with skin repairing effect |
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