CN113476362A

CN113476362A - Facial skin cutin renewal promoter and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113476362A
Application number: CN202110701425.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 招敏聪; 郭文姣; 刘裕娇; 贺锐
Original assignee: Plant Doctor Guangdong Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Plant Doctor Guangdong Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-06-23
Filing date: 2021-06-23
Publication date: 2021-10-08
Anticipated expiration: 2041-06-23
Also published as: CN113476362B

Abstract

The invention discloses a facial skin cutin renewal promoter and a preparation method and application thereof, belonging to the field of skin care products. The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator comprises 1-10% of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 0.1-5% of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, wherein the extract extracted from pomegranate fruits after lactobacillus fermentation has smaller molecular weight, is more beneficial to softening cuticles and promoting the shedding of the cuticles, can change the proportion of nutritional components and anti-nutritional components in the pomegranate fruits through fermentation and extraction, improves the biological activity of the product, and the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid can provide a more stable buffer environment, is more beneficial to maintaining the functions of a biological enzyme structure and active components, does not contain fruit acids, has low requirements on a formula system, is suitable for products with the pH value of 4-6.5, has good skin feel, does not stimulate sensitive muscles, is a mild cutin renewal accelerator, and has better skin barrier repair function and whitening and skin-refreshing effect.

Description

Facial skin cutin renewal promoter and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a facial skin cutin renewal promoter and application thereof.

Background

The skin is divided into epidermis layers and dermis layers, and the epidermis layers include a basal layer, a stratum spinosum layer, a granular layer and a stratum corneum layer. The stratum corneum, in turn, is in direct contact with the outside world, protecting the skin and body from external risk factors. The protein called keratin (keratin) in the stratum corneum is 50% and the rest consists of 20% fat, 23% water-soluble substances and 7% moisture. Skin cells are constantly growing and push existing skin cells gradually towards the stratum corneum, at which time the cells that reach the stratum corneum are flat dead cells, also known as "corneas". Millions of dead keratinocytes are shed and replaced by new keratinocytes in the skin a day. The position of the new cell layer in the epidermis is changed to turnover (turnover), which takes about 4 weeks in normal skin although it varies depending on the location or age. When the horny layer is not normally peeled but remains on the skin surface, the horny layer arrangement of the skin is irregular, the skin touch is rough and uneven, the irregular horny layer arrangement also affects the skin transparency, the normal light reflection of the horny layer is affected, the melanin is difficult to metabolize, and the skin color looks dull and lusterless. Skin darkness may be accompanied by a problem of large pores and frequent secretion of oil. The thicker cuticle also influences the absorption of skin care products by skin, and the active substances such as whitening, freckle removing, anti-aging and the like containing the functional components in the cosmetics cannot reach the basal layer or the dermis layer of the skin because of the thicker cuticle. At present, most of skin care products for removing cutin are fruit acid type AHA skin changing products, the formula is only suitable for a system with pH value of about 3 and is slightly acidic, the requirement on a thickening agent of the formula is high, an acid-resistant thickening agent is needed, and most of thickening agents with acid resistance have poor skin feel, are sticky and are difficult to absorb. In addition, a system with lower pH value can also cause certain burden to the skin, sensitive muscles have damaged skin barriers, the pH value is higher than that of healthy people, and certain stimulation and discomfort can be caused to the sensitive skin by using a product with lower pH value.

CN104546604A discloses an exfoliating cosmetic composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-10 parts of tartaric acid, 0.1-10 parts of mung bean powder, 8-12 parts of a humectant, 4-5 parts of a surfactant, 1-3 parts of a thickening agent, 0.5-1.5 parts of an emulsifier, 0.4-0.6 part of a preservative and 60-85 parts of deionized water. The fruit acid and the mung bean powder are added into the exfoliating cosmetic composition, so that the fruit acid and the mung bean powder can be synergized, have the effects of moisturizing, softening epidermal cutin, promoting cell regeneration and cleaning skin, and are mild and non-irritant to the skin. The exfoliating cosmetic composition is mainly used for effectively exfoliating through a fruit acid component, and cannot solve the problem that an exfoliating product stimulates sensitive muscles and the problem that the exfoliating product is sticky and difficult to absorb due to an acid-resistant thickening agent.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problems that the existing exfoliating product mostly adopts a fruit acid component, is only suitable for a system with pH of about 3 and is slightly acidic, is not beneficial to absorption and has certain sensitive muscle irritation, and provides a facial skin cutin renewal promoter which does not contain fruit acid components, has a formula system suitable for pH of 4-6.5, does not irritate sensitive muscles, does not need to add an acid-resistant thickening agent, and is a mild cutin renewal promoter.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide the use of a facial skin rejuvenation promoter in a skin care preparation.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a facial skin exfoliating product.

The above purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

a facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises, by mass, 1-10 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 0.1-5 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

In the process of regeneration of cutin, old waste cutin can be peeled off to form new cutin, but under the influence of external and internal conditions, the old waste cutin can not be naturally peeled off and is accumulated on the surface due to abnormal metabolism, so that the skin is dark yellow and rough, and a cutin regeneration promoter is needed to assist the cutin regeneration.

The skin cutin renewal accelerator disclosed by the invention is particularly used for facial skin, the facial skin is more sensitive, especially sensitive muscles, the requirement on pH is higher, the skin is easy to irritate due to too low pH, and the skin is stabbing, reddish and other symptoms.

According to the invention, the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid have an effective synergistic effect, and the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid has an effect of stabilizing the pH value of the environment, so that a favorable exfoliating environment is provided for the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract. The hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid can also soften cuticle skin, and after the cuticle skin is softened, the active substances of pomegranate fruit fermentation products such as proteolytic enzyme, pomegranate polyphenol, ellagic acid and urolithin A play the greatest role, and the proteolytic enzyme is helpful for mildly decomposing and digesting accumulated large protein, removing skin cutin and accelerating the metabolism of the skin.

Meanwhile, the invention also needs to control the content of the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and the content of the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid within a certain range, so as to ensure the balance of interaction and realize the optimization of the effect. Because the cuticle is too soft when the concentration of the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid is too high, the pomegranate fruit fermentation product is easier to peel off the cuticle. If the concentration of the pomegranate fruit fermentation product is too high and the regeneration speed of cutin is higher than the generation speed of skin, the cutin can be excessively removed, the cutin layer of the skin is easily too thin, and the cutin layer cannot effectively resist external ultraviolet rays and pollution, the water loss is increased, and the skin barrier damage is caused. If the concentration is too low, the aims of promoting metabolism and removing redundant cutin cannot be effectively achieved.

In order to further optimize the effect of anastomotic exfoliation, the composition preferably comprises 3-8 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 1-2 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid in parts by mass.

For example, the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract can be 8 parts and the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid can be 1 part;

or 3 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 3 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid;

or 5 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 2 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

Preferably, the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract includes proteolytic enzyme, pomegranate polyphenols, ellagic acid, and urolithin a.

Further preferably, the content of proteolytic enzyme in the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is 0.2-4.5%, the content of pomegranate polyphenol is 10.4-21.3%, the content of ellagic acid is 0.1-2%, and the content of urolithin A is 0.4-3% by mass.

The pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is prepared by taking soaked pomegranate and fermenting the soaked pomegranate fruit by lactobacillus, phytochemicals can be more easily obtained in the fermentation process, and the phytochemicals can be separated by a selective filtration technology to obtain proteolytic enzyme, pomegranate polyphenol, antioxidant such as ellagic acid, urolithin A and the like, vitamin, amino acid, mineral substances and trace elements, the antioxidant property is 3 times higher than that of green tea and more 20 times of that of vitamin C, the antioxidant property can effectively neutralize free radicals, promote metabolism, discharge toxin, delay aging and keep skin activity.

Wherein, it is required to be noted that:

the action principle of the proteolytic enzyme is to dissolve keratin protein by using an enzyme method, reduce the connection between keratinized bridge grains and further increase the renewal rate of the stratum corneum.

Pomegranate polyphenols: the antioxidant property is 3 times higher than that of green tea, more 20 times of that of vitamin C, and the product can effectively neutralize free radicals, promote metabolism and discharge toxin.

Ellagic acid: simultaneously has the functions of softening cutin and moistening dry skin, and can effectively inhibit the decomposition of collagen. Is helpful for plumping skin, stimulating blood supply, improving complexion, and promoting metabolism.

Urolithin a: urolithin a can induce mitophagy in vivo or in vitro, so that mitochondria can keep vitality, inhibit dysregulated mitochondria accumulated with age and prolong mitochondrial life, provide energy for skin, and is beneficial to promoting keratinocyte regeneration to achieve the purpose of exfoliating. The urolithin A also has anti-inflammatory effect, can inhibit verification reaction of fibroblast generation induced by leukocyte introduction-1 beta (IL-1 beta) and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha), and reduce expression level of inflammatory factor prostaglandin E2(PGE2), thereby achieving the purpose of relieving and resisting inflammation.

The pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract of the present invention can be prepared by any method in the prior art, and preferably by fermentation extraction using the following method:

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is obtained by performing lactobacillus fermentation extraction on pomegranate fruits

S1, juicing and crushing pomegranate fruits, adding amylase for enzymolysis reaction to obtain an intermediate product A;

s2, continuously adding the intermediate product A into a complex enzyme for enzymolysis reaction to obtain an intermediate product B;

s3, fermenting the intermediate product B with lactobacillus to prepare a fermentation product, purifying to obtain a pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract,

wherein the enzymolysis temperature of amylase in S1 is 70-85 ℃, and the dosage of the amylase is 0.05-0.2% of the mass of pomegranate fruits;

the compound enzyme in the S2 is two or more of amylase, cellulase, xylanase and beta-glucanase, the enzymolysis temperature is 45-65 ℃, and the using amount of the compound enzyme is 0.05-0.2% of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

in the S3, the fermentation temperature of the lactobacillus is 30-50 ℃, and the using amount of the lactobacillus is 1-5% of the mass of the pomegranate fruit.

Among them, it should be noted that:

the amylase is high-temperature resistant alpha-amylase;

the amylase in the compound enzyme is beta amylase.

The lactobacillus is one or more of lactobacillus plantarum, lactobacillus casei, lactobacillus bacteriovorus, lactobacillus bulgaricus, lactobacillus lactis and lactobacillus acidophilus, and is preferably lactobacillus plantarum.

In order to ensure the safety and sterility of the product, pasteurization is required after the lactobacillus is sterilized, the pasteurization temperature is 75-85 ℃, the time is 15-30 min, the fermentation liquor is centrifuged at ultrahigh speed, and cell walls and insoluble molecules are removed by filtration; and performing efficient concentration and filtration on the obtained filtrate, decoloring by using active carbon, and deodorizing to obtain the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract.

Exfoliation is an important part of skin care and removes dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin, which lock up bacteria and sebum, and is achieved by pomegranate proteolytic enzyme, which helps slowly break down and digest excess proteins that accumulate in the stratum corneum.

After the pomegranate fruit is fermented by lactobacillus, the skin care performance of the pomegranate fruit can be improved. The plant components can be modified in the microbial fermentation process, and a plurality of biochemical changes are generated in the fermentation process, so that the ratio of the nutritional components and the anti-nutritional components in the pomegranate fruits can be changed, and the biological activity of the product is improved. The pomegranate fruit product extract after the lactobacillus fermentation has smaller molecular weight, is more beneficial to softening cuticle, promoting the shedding of the cuticle and playing the roles of whitening and other biological activities in polyphenol in the extract.

Among them, the a-amylase (a-1, 4-D-glucose-glucoside hydrolase) in S1 is an important starch hydrolase that cleaves the glucosidic bonds in starch, glycogen, oligo-or polyglycoside molecules in a random action to produce maltose, oligosaccharides, a-1,4 glucose, etc.

The compound enzyme in the S2 can further carry out enzymolysis on the product of the alpha-amylase, so that the molecular weight of the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is lower and the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is better absorbed by a human body.

beta-Amylase (B-Amylase), also known as maltosidase, is an exonuclease. The system name is 1, 4-a-D-Glucan maltohydrolase (1,4a-D-Glucan maltohydrolase, EC.3.2.1.2), which acts on starch from the non-reducing end of the starch chain, acting on the a-1, 4-glycosidic bond.

The action of cellulase: when the cellulose and hemicellulose are decomposed when the cellulose and hemicellulose are applied to pomegranate fruit fibers, the dissolution of plant cell walls can be promoted, more plant cell internal solutes can be dissolved out, and the indigestible macromolecular polysaccharide, protein and lipid can be degraded into small molecular substances, wherein 50 percent of crude fibers are degraded into short-chain oligosaccharide, the clarification of juice is promoted, the juice is transparent and does not precipitate, the extraction rate of the juice (about 10 percent) is improved,

xylanase action: xylan is one of the constituents of cell walls, and xylanase releases nutrients contained in cells by degrading xylan, thereby breaking the firm structure of cell walls and destroying the structure of cell walls.

Beta-glucanase action: a variety of enzymes capable of catalyzing the hydrolysis of β -glucan. The viscosity of the pomegranate fruit extract is reduced, the filtering speed is increased, and the brightness and the stability of the pomegranate fruit extract are improved; improving saccharification production capacity, promoting the improvement of fermentable products, and removing turbidity caused by beta-glucan.

Preferably, the activity of the amylase in S1 is 5-20U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 1-3 h.

Preferably, the activity of the complex enzyme in S2 is 70-200U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 1-5 h.

Preferably, the lactobacillus fermented by the lactobacillus in S3 has an activity of 10⁵～10⁷U/g, and the fermentation time is 10-45 h.

The preparation process of the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract of the invention involves related microbial enzyme treatment, the types and contents of enzymolysis products can be seriously influenced by the activity of the enzymes S1 and S2, and further the related products fermented by lactobacillus are influenced, and the corresponding fermentation raw materials can not be obtained by enzyme treatment if the enzyme activity does not meet the requirements of the invention. On the other hand, the activity of lactobacillus is too low to reach the fermentation activity of character, and the corresponding fermentation product cannot be obtained. An excessively high activity on the one hand is economically disadvantageous and on the other hand also influences the formation of the end product of the fermentation.

The invention also specifically relates to the application of the promoter for protecting the regeneration of facial skin cutin in skin care products.

The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator does not contain fruit acid substances, has low requirements on a formula system, is suitable for products with the pH value of 4-6.5, is widely applied to various systems, including cream, milky lotion and the like, has good skin feel, does not cause stimulation to sensitive muscles, and is a mild cutin renewal accelerator.

The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator applied to a specific skin care product can be prepared according to the following method:

the skin care product comprises the following A phase, B phase, C phase and D phase, and comprises the following specific components:

phase A: water, butylene glycol, carbomer, EDTA sodium salt;

phase B: triethanolamine

And C phase: hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract;

phase D: essence, phenoxyethanol

Starting a stirrer, controlling the stirring speed at 100-.

The invention also protects the application of the facial skin cutin renewal promoter in preparing products for promoting the whitening and revitalizing of the facial skin.

The invention also protects the application of the facial skin cutin renewal promoter in preparing a product for promoting the barrier repair of the facial skin.

The invention also provides a facial skin exfoliating product which is prepared from an keratinocyte renewal accelerator and other acceptable raw materials.

The exfoliating product of the present invention can be in the form of a cream, lotion, or the like.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

the invention provides a facial skin cutin renewal accelerator, which comprises 1-10% of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 0.1-5% of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, wherein the extract extracted from pomegranate fruit after lactobacillus fermentation has smaller molecular weight, is more favorable for softening cuticle and promoting cuticle shedding, the fermentation and extraction can change the proportion of nutritional components and anti-nutritional components in pomegranate fruit, the bioactivity of the product is improved, and the hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid can provide a more stable buffering environment and is more favorable for maintaining the functions of a biological enzyme structure and active components.

The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator does not contain fruit acid substances, has low requirements on a formula system, is suitable for products with the pH value of 4-6.5, is widely applied to various systems, including cream, milky lotion and the like, has good skin feel, does not cause stimulation to sensitive muscles, is a mild facial skin cutin renewal accelerator, and has better skin barrier repair function and whitening and skin-refreshing effect.

The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator can effectively promote the renewal of skin cutin, the number of days for the falling fluorescence disappearance of the skin cutin can be reduced to 23 days, the ITA Index value of the skin after 28 days of the renewal cycle can be improved to 40, the facial skin rejuvenation and brightening effect is remarkable, the Sesc value of the facial skin can be reduced to about 9.3, the cutin Desquamation can be reduced, the skin metabolism can be promoted, the Desquamation Index value of the facial skin can be reduced to about 17, the Desquamation of the skin can be effectively reduced, the skin rejuvenation can be accelerated, and the skin cutin renewal and barrier repair can be better promoted.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a depiction of the adhesive attachment of the stratum corneum and the texture of loose skin by the corneofix method (blank, initial condition).

Fig. 2 is a chart of the adhesive patch method (corneofix) adhering the loose stratum corneum and texture of the skin (experimental group, initial condition).

Fig. 3 is a chart of the adhesive patch method (corneofix) adhering the loose stratum corneum and texture of the skin (blank, after 28 days).

Fig. 4 is a chart of the adhesive patch method (corneofix) adhering the loose stratum corneum and texture of the skin (experimental group, after 28 days).

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described with reference to specific embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to the examples in any way. The starting reagents employed in the examples of the present invention are, unless otherwise specified, those that are conventionally purchased.

Example 1

A facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises 8 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 1 part of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid by mass.

The pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is obtained by performing lactobacillus fermentation extraction on pomegranate fruits,

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

wherein, the enzymolysis temperature of amylase in S1 is 80 ℃, and the dosage of the amylase is 0.1 percent of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

the compound enzyme in the S2 is one or more of amylase, cellulase, xylanase and beta-glucanase, the enzymolysis temperature is 55 ℃, the using amount of the compound enzyme is 0.1 percent of the mass of the pomegranate fruit,

in the S3, the fermentation temperature of the lactobacillus is 40 ℃, and the using amount of the lactobacillus accounts for 3% of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

the activity of the compound enzyme in S2 is 150U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 3 h;

the activity of Lactobacillus plantarum fermented by the Lactobacillus in S3 was 10⁶U/g, fermentation time is 30 h.

The pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises proteolytic enzyme, pomegranate polyphenols, Ellagic Acid (Ellagic Acid) and urolithin A,

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises, by mass, 3.5% of proteolytic enzyme, 18.2% of pomegranate polyphenol, 1.5% of ellagic acid and 1.9% of urolithin A.

Example 2

A facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises, by mass, 1 part of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 0.1 part of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

Example 3

A facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises, by mass, 5 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 2 parts of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

Example 4

A facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises, by mass, 3 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 1 part of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

wherein, the enzymolysis temperature of amylase in S1 is 80 ℃, and the dosage of the amylase is 0.05 percent of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

the compound enzyme in the S2 is one or more of amylase, cellulase, xylanase and beta-glucanase, the enzymolysis temperature is 55 ℃, the using amount of the compound enzyme is 0.05 percent of the mass of the pomegranate fruit,

in the S3, the fermentation temperature of the lactobacillus is 40 ℃, and the using amount of the lactobacillus accounts for 1% of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

the activity of the lactobacillus in S3, which is lactobacillus bulgaricus, is 10⁶U/g, fermentation time is 30 h.

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises, by mass, 0.5% of proteolytic enzyme, 13.4% of pomegranate polyphenol, 0.3% of ellagic acid and 0.6% of urolithin A.

Example 5

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

Example 6

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

wherein, the enzymolysis temperature of amylase in S1 is 80 ℃, and the dosage of the amylase is 0.2 percent of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

the compound enzyme in the S2 is one or more of amylase, cellulase, xylanase and beta-glucanase, the enzymolysis temperature is 55 ℃, the using amount of the compound enzyme is 0.2 percent of the mass of the pomegranate fruit,

in the S3, the fermentation temperature of the lactobacillus is 40 ℃, and the using amount of the lactobacillus is 5% of the mass of the pomegranate fruit;

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises, by mass, 2.1% of proteolytic enzyme, 18.0% of pomegranate polyphenol, 1.4% of ellagic acid and 1.7% of urolithin A.

Example 7

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 5U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

the activity of the compound enzyme in S2 is 70U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 3 h;

the activity of Lactobacillus plantarum fermented by the Lactobacillus in S3 was 10⁵U/g, fermentation time is 30 h.

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises, by mass, 0.4% of proteolytic enzyme, 11.8% of pomegranate polyphenol, 0.3% of ellagic acid and 0.6% of urolithin A.

Example 8

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 20U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

the activity of the compound enzyme in S2 is 200U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 3 h;

the activity of Lactobacillus plantarum fermented by the Lactobacillus in S3 was 10⁷U/g, fermentation time is 30 h.

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises, by mass, 2.5% of proteolytic enzyme, 18.0% of pomegranate polyphenol, 1.45% of ellagic acid and 1.8% of urolithin A.

Example 9

the specific extraction preparation method comprises the following steps:

s3, fermenting the intermediate product B lactobacillus casei to prepare a fermentation product, purifying to obtain a pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract,

the activity of the amylase in S1 is 10U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 2 h;

the fermentation activity of the lactobacillus casei in S3 is 10⁶U/g, fermentation time is 30 h.

the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises, by mass, 1.2% of proteolytic enzyme, 12.5% of pomegranate polyphenol, 0.6% of ellagic acid and 0.5% of urolithin A.

Example 10

Wherein the pomegranate fruit fermented product extract is purchased from vytrus biotech, wherein the content of the hydroxy acid in the pomegranate fruit fermented product extract is 1000 mg/kg.

Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid was purchased from purer biomedicine.

Comparative example 1

A facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises, by mass, 0.5 parts of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 1 part of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

Comparative example 2

A facial skin cutin renewal promoter comprises 12 parts by mass of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 1 part by mass of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

Application detection

(1) Method for measuring cuticle shedding rate and whitening effect by dansyl chloride dyeing

The detection principle is as follows: dansyl chloride labeling has been widely used in the field of dermatology as a method for measuring stratum corneum turnover time. The method is used for measuring the shedding rate of the cuticle by dansyl chloride staining to reflect the renewal time of the epidermis. Dansyl chloride is a fluorescent protein marker with high affinity for protein amino acid groups, especially for fibrous proteins. When dansyl chloride is applied to the skin, the stratum corneum, which is rich in fibrin (keratin), can be fluorescently labeled, which is easily detected under ultraviolet light. The time until fluorescence disappears is the time when the whole stratum corneum is detached and simultaneously replaced by cells newly produced in the epidermis and not stained with dansyl chloride, and is the time for renewing the epidermis.

The detection method comprises the following steps: a total of 30 volunteers aged 25-55 years were enrolled and randomly sampled in the left and right hands using samples from different examples, stained with 5% dansyl chloride fluorescence and observed by daily photography, and ITA data were collected at 0D, 7D, 14D, 21D, and 28D, respectively, to examine the effect of the composition on the exfoliation rate of the stratum corneum and whitening and lightening

Skin color tester (Colormeter CL 400; germany CK): XYZ values are obtained by a three-primary-color method by correcting the amount of reflected light measured by the probe with a special color matrix, and are converted into La b ITA DEG values by calculation. In the evaluation of whitening efficacy by an objective instrument method, a Lab colorimetric system specified by the international commission on illumination (CIE) was selected to measure the change in skin color of the test site.

ITA ° [ arctan (L × 50)/b × 180/pi, which is a numerical value characterizing the brightness of the skin, the greater the value of ITA °, the brighter the skin, and conversely the darker the skin.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the volunteers were randomly grouped, screened for volunteer informed consent and samples were issued. After the volunteers are grouped, the samples are tried out according to the requirements, and the test period is 28 days. At 0D, the patch test was performed with 5% dansyl chloride for 6h (Hilltop patch tester) on the inner side of the upper arm, and the patch tester was removed after 6 h. From day 2 to the end of the experiment, volunteers were visually scored daily by observing fluorescent staining under an ultraviolet lamp until the fluorescence disappeared. The volunteers used the samples in the morning and evening each day and took fluorescence images with the camera every week. Each time a shot is taken. Keeping the distance between the forearm of the testee and the camera at 35cm, simultaneously keeping the forearm position of the testee, acquiring images under an ultraviolet light source, and observing the fluorescence residual condition of the tested part. Data were collected at 0D, 7D, 14D, 21D and 28D, respectively, and their ITA values were collected with a Colormeter CL400 to examine the degree of skin whitening and brightening.

The results are shown in tables 1 and 2 below:

TABLE 1 Effect of facial skin horny layer renewal promoters on the exfoliation Rate of the skin horny layer

Test set	Days of fluorescence disappearance
		Example 1	23.3
Example 2	24.9
		Example 3	23.2
Example 4	26.1
		Example 5	23.1
Example 6	25.4
		Example 7	25.4
Example 8	25.2
		Example 9	26.1
Example 10	26.6
		Comparative example 1	27.5
Comparative example 2	27.1

The shorter the fluorescence disappearance days, the faster the exfoliation rate of the stratum corneum, and the better the renewal effect of the accelerator on the stratum corneum. From the data, the days of fluorescence disappearance of the examples of the invention are all about 26, which is significantly better than the 27 days of the comparative examples, and the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract extracted by the specific method can further optimize the cutin renewal effect and shorten the days of fluorescence disappearance.

TABLE 2 Effect of promoters of facial skin keratinocyte renewal on ITA index changes

The larger the ITA index value is, the higher the skin brightness is, and the better the whitening and brightening effect is. As can be seen from the data in table 2 above, in the embodiment of the present invention, after 28d (one skin renewal cycle), the ITA index value of the facial skin can be increased to about 40, and the skin tone rejuvenation and brightening effect is significant.

(2) Detection of the texture of the stratum corneum (skin barrier & skin rejuvenation)

The detection principle is as follows: visioscan VC20 PLUS: the skin exfoliation stratum corneum was shown as bright white in 256 black and white grey levels and the software analyzed various parameters of the skin surface. Live skin surfaces are imaged directly by this unique high resolution ultraviolet light imaging system.

A total of 30 volunteers aged 25 to 55 years were enrolled and randomly used with the samples of the different examples on the left and right hands, respectively, and the volunteers used the samples in the morning and evening, respectively, and collected the Index of Sesc (sticky patch scale exfoliation) and Desquamation Index (sticky patch exfoliation occupancy) at 0D, 7D, 14D, 21D, and 28D by Visioscan VC20 PLUS instrument in combination with the sticky patch method, and examined the effect of the composition on the texture of the stratum corneum.

The loose stratum corneum and texture of the skin were adhesively attached by the adhesive patch method (corneofix), and photographed and analyzed by VC20, and stratum corneum occupancy rates of different levels of pixel amounts were obtained, and the exfoliating/keratinization-promoting effects of the product were evaluated by collecting Sesc (patch scale exfoliation) and Desquamation Index (patch exfoliation occupancy rates).

The method comprises the following steps: during visiting, volunteers are randomly grouped, and volunteers signed with the volunteers are screened and issued with informed consent. After the volunteers are grouped, the samples are tried out according to the requirements, and the test period is 28 days. The panelists collected Sesc (degree of flaking scale peeling) and Desquamation Index (percentage of flaking peeling) at 0D, 7D, 14D, 21D and 28D, respectively, by Visioscan VC20 PLUS.

Testing indexes are as follows: sesc (degree of sticky flake scale peeling): the smaller the Sesc value, the less desquamation of the stratum corneum and the faster metabolism, the more watery and smooth the skin and the healthier the skin barrier.

Desquamation Index (occupancy of adhesive sheet peeling): the larger the patch exfoliation occupancy ratio, i.e., the amount of exfoliated stratum corneum debris/area of the measurement area × 100%, the more exfoliated stratum corneum debris, the slower the skin rejuvenation rate.

And (3) detection results:

sesc (the smaller the Sesc value, the less desquamation of the horny layer)

Sesc (degree of sticky flake scale peeling): the smaller the Sesc value, the less desquamation of the stratum corneum and the faster metabolism, the more watery and smooth the skin and the healthier the skin barrier.

The results are shown in Table 3:

TABLE 3 Effect of promoters of facial skin keratinization renewal on the Sesc values

Test set	0d	7d	14d	21d	28d
						Example 1	11.88	18.54	15.87	11.25	9.41
Example 2	11.28	18.36	15.25	13.66	10.28
						Example 3	11.78	18.25	15.54	12.45	9.31
Example 4	11.51	21.69	18.49	12.74	11.31
						Example 5	11.8	19.57	15.63	10.83	9.29
Example 6	11.31	19.95	17.2	13.23	11.28
						Example 7	11.46	19.14	16.45	13.52	11.28
Example 8	11.43	19.03	17.08	11.39	10.82
						Example 9	11.56	19.44	17.85	13.28	11.42
Example 10	11.98	19.47	18.31	13.8	11.57
						Comparative example 1	12.82	17.80	15.31	15.4	12.9
Comparative example 2	11.12	21.87	19.58	12.66	11.85

The smaller the desquamation Sesc value of the sticky patch scale is, the less desquamation of the cuticle is, the faster the metabolism is, the more moist and smooth the skin is reflected on the side surface, and the healthier the skin barrier is. From the data in table 3 above, it can be seen that in the embodiment of the present invention, after 28d (one skin renewal cycle), the Sesc value of the facial skin can be reduced to about 9.3, so that the desquamation of the stratum corneum can be reduced, the skin metabolism can be promoted, and the skin can still keep the skin moist and smooth after the stratum corneum is renewed, and the skin barrier can be repaired.

Desquamation Index (occupancy of adhesive sheet peeling)

The larger the patch exfoliation occupancy ratio, i.e., the amount of exfoliated stratum corneum debris/area of the measurement area × 100%, the more exfoliated stratum corneum debris, the slower the skin rejuvenation rate.

The results are shown in Table 4:

TABLE 4 Effect of facial skin keratinization renewal promoters on Desquamation Index results

Test set	0d	7d	14d	21d	28d
						Example 1	22.58	17.54	15.14	16.25	17.55
Example 2	22.01	17.54	12.88	16.96	18.01
						Example 3	21.58	17.14	13.11	17.01	17.34
Example 4	21.48	18.74	15.22	16.27	19.81
						Example 5	22.45	16.48	13.45	15.87	17.25
Example 6	21.77	18.75	14.96	16.04	19.25
						Example 7	21.59	18.12	13.55	15.44	19.67
Example 8	21.55	17.54	14.68	15.14	18.91
						Example 9	22.08	17.85	15.04	16.67	19.89
Example 10	21.65	18.45	15.04	16.47	20.08
						Comparative example 1	21.32	19.02	16.45	20.67	22.71
Comparative example 2	21.92	19.17	16.84	19.22	21.38

The larger the peel occupancy value of the adhesive sheet, the more the peeled off skin debris, and the slower the skin rejuvenation rate. From the data in table 4 above, it can be seen that the Desquation Index of the facial skin of the example of the present invention can be reduced to about 17 after 28d (one skin renewal cycle), which has an improvement rate of about 23% compared to about 22 before use, and the final Desquation Index is significantly lower than that of the comparative example, which indicates that the promoter for promoting the regeneration of the facial skin cutin of the present invention can effectively reduce the Desquamation, accelerate the skin rejuvenation and better promote the regeneration of the skin cutin layer.

Wherein, the attached figures 1-4 are the cuticle and the texture of loose skin adhered by a sticky sheet method (corneofix), and the darker the color is, the more the scurf is represented.

Fig. 1 and 2 show the initial conditions of the blank group and the experimental group, and fig. 3 and 4 show the conditions of the blank group and the experimental group after 28 days, respectively, and it can be seen from the comparison between fig. 3 and 4 that after the composition with the keratolytic activity is used, the excessive dandruff on the skin of the experimental group is obviously reduced compared with the blank group, the skin texture is more delicate, and the composition can promote the renewal speed of the keratinocytes, increase the metabolism and change the skin speed.

It should be understood that the above-described embodiments of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention, and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator is characterized by comprising 1-10 parts by mass of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 0.1-5 parts by mass of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

2. The facial skin keratinization renewal accelerator according to claim 1, which comprises 3 to 8 parts by mass of pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract and 1 to 2 parts by mass of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

3. The facial skin keratinization renewal accelerator according to claim 1, wherein the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract comprises proteolytic enzyme, pomegranate polyphenol, ellagic acid and urolithin a.

4. The facial skin keratinization renewal accelerator according to claim 3, wherein the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract contains 0.2 to 4.5% of proteolytic enzyme, 10.4 to 21.3% of pomegranate polyphenol, 0.1 to 2% of ellagic acid, and 0.4 to 3% of urolithin A, by mass.

5. The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator according to claim 1, wherein the pomegranate fruit fermentation product extract is obtained by subjecting pomegranate fruit to lactobacillus fermentation extraction, and the extraction method comprises:

the compound enzyme in the S2 is two or more of amylase, cellulase, xylanase and beta-glucanase, the enzymolysis temperature is 45-65 ℃, the using amount of the compound enzyme is 0.05-0.2% of the mass of the pomegranate fruit,

6. The facial skin keratinization renewal accelerator according to claim 5, wherein the amylase activity in S1 is 5-20U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 1-3 h.

7. The facial skin cutin renewal accelerator according to claim 5, wherein the activity of the complex enzyme in S2 is 70-200U/g, and the enzymolysis time is 1-5 h.

8. The facial skin keratinization renewal accelerator according to claim 5, wherein the lactobacillus fermented by the lactobacillus in S3 has an activity of 10⁵～10⁷U/g, and the fermentation time is 10-45 h.

9. Use of the facial skin keratinization promotion agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in a skin care preparation.

10. A facial skin exfoliating product prepared from the facial skin keratinization renewal promoter of any one of claims 1 to 8 and other acceptable raw materials.