CN113445186A - Single-side unidirectional moisture-conducting knitted fabric and weaving method - Google Patents
Single-side unidirectional moisture-conducting knitted fabric and weaving method Download PDFInfo
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- CN113445186A CN113445186A CN202110708885.0A CN202110708885A CN113445186A CN 113445186 A CN113445186 A CN 113445186A CN 202110708885 A CN202110708885 A CN 202110708885A CN 113445186 A CN113445186 A CN 113445186A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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Abstract
The invention discloses a single-side unidirectional moisture-conducting knitted fabric and a knitting method thereof, belonging to the technical field of textile industry. The method of the invention selects two materials with different thickness specifications to weave on a single-sided seamless jacquard machine in a special floating plating weaving mode to form a single-sided seamless fabric with two sides with different effects; the special floating yarn plating weave is adjusted through a yarn nozzle process, so that odd-path bottom yarns are normally knitted in a loop, the dyed yarns are knitted and plated on the back of the loop in a single floating yarn mode, and the surface yarns are not knitted; the even-number bottom yarns and the surface yarns are knitted normally in a loop mode, and the dyed yarns are not knitted; the odd-number-path color yarn floats are arranged in a net shape on the back surface of the fabric, and small meshes with a hexagonal honeycomb structure are formed on the front surface of the fabric. The single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric has good moisture transfer performance, sweat can conduct moisture quickly, good dryness of the inner surface can be kept, the inner surface has the function of an isolation layer, and the skin can be isolated from being contacted with the outer surface evaporated by the sweat.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a single-side unidirectional moisture-conducting knitted fabric and a knitting method, belonging to the technical field of textile industry.
Background
In recent years, along with the improvement of life quality, people have increasingly remarkable desire for clothes with heat and moisture comfort performance, wherein the appearance of the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric greatly meets the requirements of people for the products. When a human body does exercises, the sweat cannot be discharged in time to generate discomfort conditions of sultriness, dampness, stickiness and the like, the unidirectional moisture conduction function can carry out appropriate feedback treatment, the microenvironment between the skin and the fabric is improved, and the heat-humidity balance of the human body is kept. Therefore, the design and development of the unidirectional moisture-conducting functional fabric become the research focus of a plurality of scientific research groups.
At present, patent CN 110106610 a prepares a unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, the inner surface of the fabric includes a protrusion with a small F number and a diffusion surface, sweat is absorbed through the fiber pores with a small F number of the protrusion, and the siphon effect makes the sweat rapidly conduct to the outer surface of the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric through countless relatively loose pores, so as to achieve the unidirectional moisture-conducting effect. The patent is difficult to process design, the 20-path circulating tissue formed by tucking, floating threads and other weaving modes is difficult to weave, the requirement on machine configuration is high, the improvement on the one-way moisture conductivity is not high, and the selection of raw material yarns has certain hand feeling requirement due to the existence of the inner surface convex part.
Patent CN 101962885 a discloses a method for making a product with a unidirectional moisture-conducting function, which comprises performing hydrophilization pretreatment on a fabric, and spraying a water repellent finishing agent on one side of the fabric, thereby obtaining a product with a unidirectional moisture-conducting function. The technology has certain requirements on the fabric raw material, and the washability of the fabric can be reduced after finishing.
The existing one-way moisture-conducting fabric is mainly designed by double layers or multiple layers, the weaving process of a concave-convex structure and the arrangement of hydrophilic and hydrophobic reagents, the design has certain promotion effect on the one-way moisture-conducting performance of the fabric, meanwhile, the fabric thickness is added, the influence of other performances of the fabric is caused by the increase of gram weight, or the weaving process is complex and difficult to understand, or the use of the reagents pollutes the environment, the cost and the working procedure are increased, and the skin is easily attached to the fabric in a sweat-wet state, and the air permeability is poor.
Disclosure of Invention
[ problem ] to
The existing method for preparing the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric has the disadvantages of complex process design, difficult weaving and low enhancement of unidirectional moisture-conducting performance.
[ solution ]
In order to solve at least one problem, the invention uses a plating knitting mode of selecting two materials with different thickness specifications and knitting the materials on a single-sided seamless jacquard machine by one path of bottom yarn loop-forming and color yarn float and one path of surface yarn loop-forming and bottom yarn loop-forming according to net arrangement to obtain the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting knitted fabric. The single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric has good moisture transfer performance, the fabric comprises an inner surface and an outer surface, the inner surface adopts low-F-number yarns as raw materials, the outer surface adopts high-F-number yarns, and the yarns are woven in a positive and negative combined configuration mode to enable the fabric to form an obvious differential capillary effect, sweat conducts moisture quickly, good dryness of the inner surface can be kept, the inner surface has the function of an isolation layer, and skin can be isolated from being contacted with the outer surface where the sweat evaporates.
The invention aims to provide a method for weaving a single-sided one-way moisture-conducting fabric, which is characterized in that two materials with different thickness specifications are selected to be woven on a single-sided seamless jacquard machine in a special floating plating weaving mode to form the single-sided seamless fabric with different effects on two sides; the special floating yarn plating weave is adjusted through a yarn nozzle process, so that odd-path bottom yarns are normally knitted in a loop, the dyed yarns are knitted and plated on the back of the loop in a single floating yarn mode, and the surface yarns are not knitted; the even-number bottom yarns and the surface yarns are knitted normally in a loop mode, and the dyed yarns are not knitted; the odd-number-path color yarn floats are arranged in a net shape on the back surface of the fabric, and small meshes with a hexagonal honeycomb structure are formed on the front surface of the fabric.
In one embodiment of the invention, the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric comprises an inner surface and an outer surface, wherein the inner surface is obtained by weaving base yarns and dyed yarns, and the outer surface is obtained by weaving face yarns.
In one embodiment of the invention, the single-sided seamless jacquard machine is a single-sided seamless jacquard machine with the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the total number of needles is 1344, and the cylinder diameter is 15 inches.
In one embodiment of the invention, the dyed yarns are independently knitted in a floating manner, the single yarn loop forming loops are slightly larger than the double yarn loop forming loops, and the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric form pores with obvious difference, so that the differential capillary effect of the fabric is improved, the pores of the fabric are increased, and the air permeability of the fabric is improved.
In one embodiment of the invention, the yarn feeder process adjustment specifically adjusts the yarn laying longitudinal angle and the yarn laying transverse angle of the yarn feeder, the yarn feeder position of the face yarn is higher than the yarn feeder position of the ground yarn, is consistent with the yarn feeder position of the colored yarn, and is positioned between the yarn feeder of the ground yarn and the yarn feeder of the colored yarn; the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the dyed yarn nozzle is 10 degrees (+ -5 degrees), the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the face yarn nozzle and the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the bottom yarn nozzle are 15 degrees (+ -5 degrees) and 25 degrees (+ -5 degrees) respectively, the yarn laying transverse angle of the dyed yarn nozzle is slightly larger than the bottom yarn and the face yarn, and the yarn laying transverse angle of the face yarn nozzle is the smallest.
In one embodiment of the invention, the inner surface has the color yarn floats, the yarns are not looped, the yarns are relatively loose and are shown behind the fabric, the additional pressure of the yarns is high, the differential capillary effect of the fabric can be enhanced, and the hand feeling of the inner surface of the fabric can be improved.
In one embodiment of the invention, the raw material of the inner surface, i.e. the ground yarn, is a low-F-number yarn, while the ground yarn and the dyed yarn are made of the same raw material; the surface material, namely the face yarn, adopts high F number yarn.
In one embodiment of the invention, the yarns of the inner surface may be selected from a variety of different yarns, such as low moisture regain, non-hygroscopic, non-wicking yarns to enhance the drying properties of the inner surface.
In one embodiment of the invention, the linear density of the inner surface feedstock is greater than the linear density of the outer surface feedstock.
The second purpose of the invention is to obtain the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric prepared by the weaving method.
The third purpose of the invention is to apply the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric in the textile or industrial field.
The fourth purpose of the invention is to provide a textile which is prepared by adopting the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric.
In one embodiment of the invention, the textile comprises clothes, household textiles and industrial textiles.
[ advantageous effects ]
(1) The single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric has good unidirectional moisture-conducting performance, can durably and quickly transfer sweat, and increases the heat and moisture comfort of clothes.
(2) The weaving process of the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric is convenient and simple.
(3) The single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric disclosed by the invention is small in gram weight, low in thickness, light and thin, and good in air permeability.
(4) The one-way moisture-conducting function of the one-way moisture-conducting fabric is mainly determined by the differential capillary effect of the fabric, and the excellent one-way moisture-conducting performance can play a role in controlling and predicting the design process.
(5) The inner surface of the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric can keep good dryness, the contact between the wet and cold outer surface and the skin is reduced, and the dryness of the skin is kept.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a view showing the positional relationship of a yarn mouth in example 1; alpha is the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the No. 7 yarn feeder, beta is the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the No. 6 yarn feeder, and gamma is the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the No. 2 yarn feeder.
Fig. 2 is a diagram showing the needle travel path and the location of the yarn feeder in example 1.
FIG. 3 is a drawing of the special float plating knitting process of example 1; wherein, (a) special float plating stitch structure diagram, (b) unit special float plating stitch circulation diagram, and (c) fabric pattern diagram.
FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the effect of plating knitting loops by the special floats in example 1; the method comprises the following steps of (a) a single coil effect picture, a double-yarn looping size effect picture, b a single-yarn looping size effect picture, and (b) a fabric inner and outer surface coil effect picture, wherein a is an outer surface coil effect picture, b is an inner surface coil effect picture, and gray areas are inner and outer surface aperture sizes.
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the differential capillary effect of example 1; wherein a is a capillary wicking height effect graph of a straight pipe, and b is a capillary wicking height effect graph of a conical pipe.
FIG. 6 is a diagram of the effect of the looped and float yarns of the fabric of example 1; wherein a is an effect picture of the looped yarns, and b is an effect picture of the looped float yarns.
Fig. 7 is a schematic view of the effect of the unidirectional moisture-wicking performance of the fabric of example 1.
Fig. 8 is a structural view of the plating float coil of the comparative example 1.
Detailed Description
The following description of the preferred embodiments of the present invention is provided for the purpose of better illustrating the invention and is not intended to limit the invention thereto.
The test method comprises the following steps:
1. liquid water management test experiment
The liquid moisture management tester can better reflect the one-way moisture-conducting performance of sweat in the fabric and the absorption and diffusion indexes in all directions. A Q290 MMT moisture tester is often selected to test the one-way moisture permeability of the embodiment.
The experimental steps are as follows:
preparing 0.9% sodium chloride solution in a storage tank, pumping the sodium chloride solution in the storage tank until the upper sensor can continuously drip out the solution, placing an experimental sample on a lower testing pan head, completely covering a pan head probe, starting an experiment, and recording data of experimental measurement parameters by an instrument with software.
2. Moisture permeability test experiment
According to the national standard GB/T12704.1-2009 part 1 of textile fabric moisture permeability test method: the test is carried out according to the experimental procedures of the wet absorption method, a specified desiccant is filled in a moisture permeable cup, a test box with the relative humidity of (90 +/-2)%, the temperature of (38 +/-2) ° C is placed in the moisture permeable cup, the moisture permeable cup is taken out after the test is carried out for 1h, the moisture permeable cup is placed in a silica gel drier for balancing for half an hour, the moisture permeable cup is taken out and weighed, the moisture permeable cup is placed in the test box again, the steps are repeated, and the test data are recorded.
Example 1
A method for weaving a single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, wherein 50D/36F polyester yarns are selected as ground yarns and dyed yarns in the method and are woven to form the inner surface of the fabric; selecting 75D/144F polyester yarn as a surface yarn, and weaving to form the outer surface of the fabric; the 50D/36F polyester yarn is a yarn compounded by 36 fiber filaments under the thickness specification, and has larger bulkiness; the 75D/144F polyester yarn is of a compact yarn structure, and the 50D/36F polyester yarn has higher linear density than the 75D/144F polyester yarn, so that the fabric forms better differential capillary effect, and the higher the linear density of the inner yarn is, the lower the linear density of the outer yarn is, and the better the wicking effect is.
The method is characterized in that knitting is carried out on a single-side jacquard seamless machine with the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the total number of needles is 1344 and the cylinder diameter is 15 inches;
weaving 50D/36F polyester yarns as bottom yarns and dyed yarns and 75D/144F polyester yarns as surface yarns in a special floating thread plating weave weaving mode; the plaiting weave weaving mode is that all the loops on the fabric are formed by two yarns, so that each loop of the fabric can realize different performances of the front side and the back side of the fabric; during weaving, the colored yarn penetrates through a No. 7 yarn nozzle, the surface yarn penetrates through a No. 6 yarn nozzle, and the bottom yarn penetrates through a No. 2 yarn nozzle; the position of the No. 6 yarn nozzle is higher than that of the No. 2 bottom yarn nozzle, the yarn nozzle is consistent with that of the No. 7 yarn nozzle and is positioned between the No. 2 yarn nozzle and the No. 7 yarn nozzle, meanwhile, the yarn filling longitudinal angle and the yarn filling transverse angle of the yarn nozzle are fine adjusted by the process, the yarn filling longitudinal angle and the yarn filling transverse angle are reasonably changed, the working height of the No. 7 yarn nozzle is lower while the yarn can be normally looped, the yarn filling longitudinal angle alpha is 10 degrees (+ -5 degrees), the heights of the No. 6 yarn nozzle and the No. 2 yarn nozzle are higher, beta and gamma are respectively 15 degrees (+ -5 degrees and 25 degrees (+ -5 degrees), the yarn filling transverse angles of 3 yarn nozzles are smaller, but the yarn filling transverse angle of the No. 7 yarn nozzle is slightly larger than that of the No. 2 yarn nozzle and the No. 6 yarn nozzle, and the position relation of the yarn nozzles is shown in figure 1;
when the technological program sets the tucking cam and the retreating cam to work, the knitting needle finishes the step of retreating the loop; the first needle selector and the middle plate cam are not selected, and the knitting needle runs at the positions of the first needle selector and the middle plate cam by the height of the floating thread; when the second needle selector is selected, the knitting needle works along with the knitting needle track of the second needle selector, the knitting needle reaches the looping height, and the knitting needle running track and the yarn nozzle position are shown in figure 2;
the special floating thread plating is designed according to the working track of a knitting needle in a figure 2 and the position of a yarn mouth in a figure 1, when the odd number of No. 6 yarn mouths are set by a process and do not work, the face yarn does not eat, the height of the No. 7 yarn mouths is higher than that of a knitting needle hook, the colored yarn is in the back of a floating thread on a coil, the needle hook can only eat the bottom yarn of the No. 2 yarn mouths for looping, the No. 7 yarn mouths are set on even number of paths and do not work, the yarn is orderly arranged in floating and looping according to the design, meanwhile, the odd number of special floating thread plating tissues are in a net-shaped arrangement design to form a hexagonal honeycomb hidden pattern of a tiny mesh of the fabric, and a local coil pattern, a unit cycle pattern and pattern effects are shown in figures 3(a), (b) and (c).
Under the same process setting, the size of the coil is influenced by the tension and the elasticity of the yarn, the coil of the single yarn is slightly larger than the coil of the double yarn, and the air permeability of the fabric is improved, as shown in (a) in fig. 4, the coil of the single yarn is larger than the coil of the double yarn, and the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric can form more obvious size pores by the gray area in (b) in fig. 4, by combining with the analysis of a fabric differential capillary effect principle formula, sweat can be rapidly transmitted from coarse capillary pores on the inner surface to fine capillary pores on the outer surface, and a larger positive additional pressure difference is formed on the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric, so that the fabric has an excellent differential capillary effect, as shown in a phenomenon schematic diagram of the differential capillary effect shown in fig. 5, as can be seen in fig. 5: the larger the difference of capillary pores on two sides of the fabric under a certain condition, the better the wicking effect.
The yarns are not looped, the yarns which are not looped through the yarn bending form floating threads behind the face yarns in a loose yarn structure, as shown in a and b in figure 6, the floating threads and the face yarn loops form a better differential capillary effect, and the hidden patterns of the hexagonal honeycomb structure disperse moisture, so that capillary transmission is effectively carried out in a large area, the problems of sweat gathering, sweat pressure and the like caused by excessive sweat are solved, and the external effect of the fabric is improved. Therefore, the capillary pores of the fabric are increased through the method, the air permeability of the fabric is enhanced, the differential capillary effect of the fabric is enhanced, sweat can be rapidly and unidirectionally transferred from the skin to the outer surface to be evaporated, the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the fabric is optimized, specifically, the schematic diagram of rapid sweat transfer shown in fig. 7 is shown, the selection of yarns is convenient, the existence of yarn floats can improve the hand feeling of the fabric, and the skin is kept dry and comfortable.
Comparative example 1
The method is characterized in that 50D/36F polyester yarns and 75D/144F polyester yarns are selected as raw materials, plating floating thread weaving is carried out by selecting a machine the same as that in the embodiment 1, a structural diagram is shown in figure 8, and plating floating thread tissues are formed by weaving surface yarns and bottom yarns in a floating manner without being eaten at the same time, so that the fabric is contracted to form a concave-convex structure on the surface of the fabric, and the sweat transfer and moisture conduction effects of the fabric are provided.
Example 2
Selecting 50D/36F polyester yarns as bottom yarns and color yarns as the inner surface of the fabric, selecting 75D/72F polyester yarns as surface yarns as the outer surface of the fabric, and selecting the same machine and weaving method as in example 1 to obtain the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric with the same structure as in example 1.
The unidirectional moisture-transmitting fabrics obtained in examples 1 and 2 and comparative example 1 were subjected to a liquid moisture management test, and were evaluated with a market-related index rating, and the test results are shown in table 1.
Table 1 test results of fabrics obtained in examples 1 and 2 and comparative example 1
Note: the numbers inside the brackets are the market ratings.
As can be seen from table 1: the single-sided one-way moisture-conducting fabric of the embodiment 1 has excellent one-way moisture-conducting performance, and is far greater than that of the embodiment 2 and the comparison example 1. The single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric in the embodiment 1 meets the market assessment requirement (the grade assessment is more than or equal to 3) of the development of moisture-absorbing, quick-drying and sweat-releasing performance products, sweat can be quickly transferred, skin is kept dry, and the heat, moisture and comfort of the fabric are realized.
Although the present invention has been described with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that various changes and modifications can be made therein by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. A weaving method of a single-sided one-way moisture-conducting fabric is characterized in that the method is to weave two materials with different thickness specifications on a single-sided seamless jacquard machine in a special floating plating weaving mode to form a single-sided seamless fabric with two sides with different effects; the special floating yarn plating weave is adjusted through a yarn nozzle process, so that odd-path bottom yarns are normally knitted in a loop, the dyed yarns are knitted and plated on the back of the loop in a single floating yarn mode, and the surface yarns are not knitted; the even-number bottom yarns and the surface yarns are knitted normally in a loop mode, and the dyed yarns are not knitted; the odd-number-path color yarn floats are arranged in a net shape on the back surface of the fabric, and small meshes with a hexagonal honeycomb structure are formed on the front surface of the fabric.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the single-sided unidirectional moisture-wicking fabric comprises an inner surface and an outer surface, the inner surface being woven from ground yarns and dyed yarns, and the outer surface being woven from face yarns.
3. The method of claim 2 wherein the dyed yarns are individually float knitted, the single yarn loop stitches are slightly larger than the double yarn loop stitches, and the inner and outer surfaces of the fabric are formed with substantially different sized apertures.
4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the yarn feeder process adjustment is in particular to adjust the yarn laying longitudinal angle and the yarn laying transverse angle of a yarn feeder, the yarn feeder position of the face yarn is higher than the yarn feeder position of the base yarn and is consistent with the yarn feeder of the dyed yarn, and is positioned between the yarn feeder of the base yarn and the yarn feeder of the dyed yarn; the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the dyed yarn nozzle is 10 degrees (+ -5 degrees), the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the face yarn nozzle and the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the bottom yarn nozzle are 15 degrees (+ -5 degrees) and 25 degrees (+ -5 degrees) respectively, the yarn laying transverse angle of the dyed yarn nozzle is slightly larger than the bottom yarn and the face yarn, and the yarn laying transverse angle of the face yarn nozzle is the smallest.
5. A method according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the material of the inner surface, the ground yarn, is a low F-number yarn, while the ground yarn and the dyed yarn are of the same material; the surface material, namely the face yarn, adopts high F number yarn.
6. A method according to claim 2 or 3, characterised in that there are floats of coloured yarn on the inner surface, the yarn has not been looped, the yarn is present more loosely behind the fabric, and the yarn is under more pressure.
7. A method according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the linear density of the inner surface feedstock is greater than the linear density of the outer surface feedstock.
8. A single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric prepared by the weaving method of any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. Use of the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conductive fabric of claim 8 in textile or industrial fields.
10. A textile prepared from the single-sided unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric of claim 8.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114990777A (en) * | 2022-05-24 | 2022-09-02 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Knitted vamp using invisible applique process |
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| CN114990777A (en) * | 2022-05-24 | 2022-09-02 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Knitted vamp using invisible applique process |
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Application publication date: 20210928 |